I didn't know that water in the fluid could cause lever judder like you experienced. I've learnt something new and worthwhile here yet again. Thanks Del
Dellboy this has got to be the 3rd or 4th time your videos have given me helpful tips about serving bits on my bikes. I like to do as much myself as I can but just a quick reminder on the tricks that make it all so easy thanks man keep it up.
Just fitted new brake lines to my BMW K75 (customising)...thanks for the bleeding process. I will replay your video to instruct me so I don't get it arse for elbow! Such valuable information. Cheers Del. 👌🏻
Great tips and instructions as usual Del thank you I’ve got some pre season maintenance to do so am going through all your tiger vids to refresh my memory on how to do it properly,best wishes from Sweden 🇸🇪
Thanks - I did a brake fluid bleed and renew for both front and rear for Triumph Street Triple 2015 ABS and clean up for the calipers - used the tip to pressure the front and rear brakes - the brakes are better than when they were new - great video as ever
Cheers again for all your commitment and hard work. Dealers! bought tiger 1050 few years back from dealer and told me fork seals had been replaced, handling was bad up front so upon redoing fork oil for 10w noticed different colour fluid in each leg = only replaced damaged seal not knowing viscosity/Air gap in other leg...
Cheers again Delboy, having an absolute mare on 955i after changing one front caliper. Followed your reverse bleed video then the this one showing sequence and bingo! Sorted!!
Lol, oh yeah black paint, black brake fluid. Had the very same thing on my tramp, but mine was due to a temp fix on the calliper... I did find your trick with pinning lever in over night gave it less of that spongy feel that most triumphs seem to have.
Never seen fluid that bad... wow. You are right about the systems with the splitter. My Honda is like that and it's a hell's own job to get the air out of it... LOL. I changed the fluid when I got the bike and it was quite a bit better, but a year or so later I replaced the lines with modern (the bike is 1988) braided ones. What a difference! Two finger squeeze and nearly does stoppies!. Brakes are important... :-)
+GTs Garage Cheers matey, just a typical maintainence job, never stops when you use it every day aye..! good to hear from you fellah... all the best.. Del.
Nice one Del, glad you got it sorted. I've gotta do my clutch fluid soon, so a bit of DBG combined with Haynes should see me good. Have a great Xmas D and P, cheers
This is the main reason I won't take my bike to a dealer for servicing; if they're prepared to let you ride this out the door after selling it with a free pack of lies, then their record on servicing will be just as woeful. Granted it's hard work and surprisingly frequent, but If you DIY then at least you know it's been done and you can only blame yourself if it goes t*ts up. On the plus side it is extremely rewarding and you save an absolute wad! Another nice vid del, keep 'em comin'.
Thanks for this video! I have had to adjust my frontbrake lever out and out to maintain brakepressure for the last couple of rides. This weekend I wanted to prepare the bike for upcoming winter and I just noticed a tiny little drop of brakefluid on the underside of the reservoir. My bike (Nuda 900R) is always parked on the sidestand, which causes the level of brakefluid to reach the top of the reservoir when leaned over. I bet the lid wasn't tightened properly on the reservoir, since the drop of brakefluid. I better try the trick with leaving the brakelever under pressure overnight....You just earned a sub! Watched a bunch of your other videos as well - good stuff mate. Thanks for your efforts! Oh and Penny's camerawork is as good as any steadycam :-) RSM8
Hi buddy, how cool - the Nuda is a legend, what an enormous fun bike to ride! If you are suspecting your brake resevoir is leaking, then might I just suggest not to simply screw it down tighter, as they don't actually need to be that tight - they have a soft rubber seal underneath, which doesn't need much pressure to do it's job, so swinging on the screws could just damage things - what can sometimes happen, if you have had the cap off and laid it on it's back, you will get a tiny amount of fluid will drain above the rubber seal and when you put it back together, the little bit of stray fluid drains out the air holes... and yes, all caps have tiny air holes on the side, otherwise the fluid can't drain down as the pads wear.... it could just be the rubber seal is not properly 'seated', but hey, if the fluid is more than 2yrs old, then why not bleed it all through and change it??!! As the fluid itself will be waterlogged by now .... hope that helps, good luck with it, Del
Yeah the Nuda for sure has some character! Braap Braap hehe Thanks for your thorough and (very!) fast reply Del. Agreed, better to replace the fluid. Can't go cheap on the brakes. The best part: Thanks to your videos, now I know how to do a proper job, doing it myself :-)
Bang on form as ever, a very entertaining and educational watch. Lying toe rag dealer though, that fluid looked like it had never been changed, and they damn fine know they can wriggle out of anything that crops up like that after just a few weeks of releasing the bike. 'What did you expect, mate, you only went and rode it didn'tcha?' Boils my piss.
+pgod1960 Boils mine too mate, but like you say... it will always be wriggled out of with the same old gibbering.. past caring any more mate, its no more than i expect.. they left a foot peg hanger bolt hanging out, and the back wheel 2mm out of alignment.. i guess this is the kind of thing that makes doung yor own maintenance all the more important.. good to hear form you buddy.. keep mending.. Del.
alright mate , Thats calipers serviced and fluid bleed and clutch aswell . once again informative videos easy to follow your a star ,i can see you on discovery channel
Thanks mate, and yeah, we do have a few of our videos on the Discovery UK channel's Turbo Hub, but to have a longer (proper!) show would be just awesome! Glad the videos help out, all the best, Del
Hi del, I've recently noticed that my front brake on my 125 doesn't feel as smooth as it normally does. I checked the window on the master cyclider and it looks like there is moister in it. Think I might have to take the cap of and have a look tomorrow. Thanks for the video Del Otherwise I wouldnt have a clue haha, ride safe
+Jack Jones Yeah, if the lever feels 'crunchy' or 'juddering' then it's a sure sign you've got a mositure build up in there... have a good look inside, it will probably be black and dirty, so just pump through with some fresh fluid and it'll be right as rain!
I really enjoyed that Del, thanks. The front brake fluid in my Bandit was black before I changed it, the brakes now make a kinda hissing noise. I need to replace the hoses I'm guessing. The Bandit will probably be written off, the estimate for repairs was sent to the insurance company today so just waiting to hear their response. Meanwhile they sent me in a van a Kawasaki Z800.. Bonkers looking thing .... Ah black grasshopper!
+James McCreadie Ha ha, they do look odd aye.. like a Transformer.. Front brakes can hiss when they are healthy, its the shear friction of the pads on the disc. and the bigger the discs the louder it can be. nothing to worry about mate, its all correct.. Good luck with the bike.. Del.
+Moonfleet41 mental brakes on the Kawasaki, shame it's winter... thanks for the advice Del, very helpful. There's a lad near me selling a GSX 750, which I've not heard of before, or I can't recall it anyway, good condition with GIVI topbox, so might just take the payout and buy this thing, just forget the Bandit..boohoo! Really enjoyed your video, thanks again.
Just to let you know, ordered the rear and front wheel suspension for my Triumph Scrambler from TEC, USA. Things went well and Dave i a nice guy to deal with. Thanks for the hint.
+Bernhard Geisler Thats great to hear Bernhard, im glad they looked after you, and goods luck with the project, you'll love the transformation. take care.. Del.
Another clear and concise 'how to video' Like an oil change, a change of brake fluid is a must do job. OK it will take a while the first time. But after a couple of goes, it becomes an easy job. If you don't mind spending £15-20 a vacuum pump makes the job easier and quicker.
+baccas66 Its really not needed, any fancy tools are not needed, maybe they do make it easier, but ive never bothered.. 2 foot of tube and a jar... job done. Thanka for wathcing buddy... hope them puppies are well... D
yep never had one yet with good fluid in just change pads n fluid and do engine and brake service n clutch fluid as soon as i get each bike ..even if it has perfect history stamped its often bullshit...good vid again buddy shows how to do it yourself and be confident in your own bike and not get ripped off.xxxxxx
You don't have to open/close the bleed screw every time you pump because the hose is drowned and no air can go back in - just leave it slightly open. Thanks for sharing 🏍
+Niels Hansen No mate, that will suck the old dirty fluid back in, when you release the lever, the suction created by the piston moving back along the master cylinder will then not only suck some new fluid down from the reservior, but it will also suck the old fluid back up, the suction created is not directional...close off the valve and then 100% of the suction is directed to the top... try it yourself, you'll see.!
I just have a question: I ride a 2015 Triump Tger Ex 1220cc and it just turned 16.000k, now the clutch is giving issue, I’d check the reservó and it was a little low, I feel it to expect, but unfortunately it doesn’t work, now I like to bleed but I don’t find the bleeder below, can you help me out. Thanks
+Scott Wilson Yeah, its not a common issue, most looked after bikes get the brake fluid changed at major service so you never see it done... Starter is easy enough, its a bolt on part, are you just replacing it..?
from what I have seen I have to remove clitch cable assembly to get side cove off etc as bolts are from the inside not on the out side my sportster is 2006 1200 cc custom
+Scott Wilson Yeah, thats right, but its not complexed, If you have a standard Sportster manual, the whole proceedure is covered in really good detail...! have a read through it anfd see how you feel..!!
Hi buddy, that's a sure sign someone has been 'topping up' as it should always be low when your pads are worn,/... so yes indeed, suck the fluid out the reservoir completely, then stick the new pads in, and bleed the system through with some fresh fluid, it wont hurt as it should be done every 2yrs anyway!
@@Moonfleet41 my thoughts exactly, thanks for the reply. I'm not taking the caliper off so il probably just blast the caliper down with brake cleaner and make sure the pistons are grit free before pushing them back flush to accommodate thicker pads.
Very understandable instructions. However, once there is sufficient fluid in the jar to completely submerge the tube under the fluid there is no further need to close the bleed valve between brake lever squeezes as long as the tube is below the old fluid in the jar preventing air from returning up the hose. At this point you can more aggressively squeeze the lever to force any air at the "T" splitter to be forced out. Maintaining clean fluid in the master cylinder is very important as not to re-introduce air into the system. What do you think of this idea??? Absolutely great tutorials you provide. Ride safe mate
+Blackhawk 247 Like BigDan said buddy, the suction from the master cylinder will pull the dirty fluid right back up the tube....you must expell the old fluid by closing off the bleed valve in order for 100% of the available suction to pull clean fluid down from the reservior.... try it yourself and you'll see...! thanks for watching buddy.. all the best.. Del.
Hi Del, Excellent video and very informative, I spent hours trying to bleed my CBR a year or so back and could of done with this video. I had a similar problem with the location of the brake lines to the bleed nipple and I was told to replace the copper washers when you undo the lines as they wont seal properly again? I notice you didn't so just wondered if that's not really required? Sam
+Sammy B1988 Hi Sam, not really vital if you are just shifting the banjos round a tad....like all things Sam, if they weap a bit, then replace them..but ive moved lots of banjos while fitting accessories, things like handlebars and mirrors...and i never loosen more then a tiny bit, just enough to be able to force them round a bit..works for me.!
Thinking of doing this on cbr 125 (btw i fixed it :D) but just wondering to bleed my brake fluid will i have to push the pistons back in or will it just flush it all through?
Just bought a used Harley-Davidson bike from my local dealer. Odometer is at 975m I asked if 1000m service was done on it. Was assured, yes it was. NOT... crazy thinking an American institution as old as Harley is would be honest. It could just be the dealer in my area but overall still reflects on Harley themselves. Now I'm having to go through and do bike maint on my own....this is my first bike ever buying experience was fine for most part but now finding Harley charges way too much. Again feeling they take advantage of ppl. Overall happy I have the opportunity to have a motorcycle....
HI there, Im sorry to hear that, its such a shame when they let you down like that, they have no idea how much that impacts on their own reputation, and like you said, the rep of the HD company themselves, that dealer is a representative and should at least treat you right... I guess you have a pretty much new bike there though, so there wont be that much wrong with it other than age.. if its older than 3 years, then maybe change out the time dated fluids like brake fluid and fork oil, other then its no more then a good once over and a safety check... On a Harley there should be a "critical fasteners check" carried out on the first service, and its a specific list of things to check and re-torque...but from speaking with the HD Tech guys that i know, they tell me that they have hardly ever found anything loose, its more paranoia from the factory, and all about warranty liability.... so just go over all the major fasteners and make sure they are all secure.. good luck with it and enjoy your bike.. i always see the dealer as just a place to buy parts and meet up with my buddies for a coffee now and again.. id never buy a bike from them, dont let it trash your view of the brand, Harley Davidson bikes are awesome, all you had was some bad customer service. aye. ....!
Strange orientation of the sight glass. It is supposed to be oriented to the back, in order to be seen when riding. At least this is the solution on my Bandit and I find it normal.
+glenbawndog Naah, not a rotten dealer, maybe a cheeky fibber... its not unusual to find them cutting corners and telling the buyer what they want to hear at the point of purchase... Thanks for your kind wishes mate, and Happy Christmas to you an yours.. take care mate... Del.
Hi Delboy! I have a Triumph Tiger 800XC 2014. I've changed the tires and cleaned the brakes. Rear pads are touching the disc and I don't know why! The 14mm bolt was not freely going all the way through. I had to apply some force (less than 27Nm) until the threads reached rear plate. Is that normal? Pedal was going all the way down, so I thought there was air in the hose. Did the bleeding. There was. But it is exactly as before! Pedal traveling all the way down and pads are touching. Piston is 3mm out only. It seems there is no space for the pads. Could the calliper mount be wrong (14mm bolt or clipper inside?). Help! :-) Could you imagine the issue? Thanks a lot in advance!
Got it! Man! the ABS sensor was touching the ABS disc, not the pads! There is a washer (a washer!) that should go between the ABS mounting piece and the body, not between the screw and the ABS mounting piece. Oh my... I hope I can help some other soul with this tiny thing... Cheers!
Wow, that was nasty! I've never seen that juddery lever effect. Is it true that if there's enough water in the fluid then it can expand and push out your brake pistons as the temperature drops to 4C? That could bring a rough end to a cold morning...
+Lasty I think you would suffer far more obvius symptoms, such as the seals juddering like this, long before it forze and expanded if you had so much water in that freezing would cause them to pop out ... pistons usually pop out cos salt collects round the dust seals and jams them !
Hey Dell, i need some help. My front brake lever does the same thing when i brake hard and i can actually feel my suspension pulse up and down when coming to a stop.. Changing the fluid didn't help, do think my rotor is warped?
+RoadwinDasR By your statement 'yours does that', I presume you mean the creaking judder on the lever??? That is water in the master cylinder that causes that, so change the fluid that should cure that part.... if your lever, however, is oscilating, then that's a separate issue, and could, indeed, be a little warpage int he disc but it's not always physically bent, it could just be jammed and stuck bobbins... try doing the bobbins clean to free up the rotor and that will probably cure it, as the discs themselves very rarely get actually warped.... there's a video on it if you need it!
+Moonfleet41 Thank you! Yes, i mean that creaking judder on the lever, it does it when i press the lever and changing the fluid didn't help, it still does it! About the rotor, mine is not a floating rotor, it is secured to the wheel with 6 hex bolts so no bobbins to clean sadly...
+RoadwinDasR Ok, the juddering is caused by water in the master cylinder, the brake fluid is mildy lubricating and will help the rubber seal slide in the tube, but water will make it stick... it could be that just changing the fluid simply hasn;t flushed it all out, and could be some corrosion in there too... if it was my bike, my next step would be to strip the master cylinder and clean it throughly and re-build it with fresh fluid, that would cure it for sure!
Moonfleet41 Alright thanks Dell! When i do rebuild it do I need new seals or the old ones would work? Ordering parts for my bike takes a long time sadly..
+RoadwinDasR Use the same seals for now as they are probably not leaking, just be very careful with them and you will be able to re-use them ! Only buy new seals if cleaning it and re-building it, doesn't work...... also, take a good look inside the bore of the cylinder tube and look for pitting, or corrosion, and if there is, clean it off, an old toothbrush with the bristles cut down is useful for this....
How often is recommended to change fluid? I Got a new front brake last year, and it felt great! It was Nice and smooth. The old brake was really sticky and "jumps" alot in the lever action. I ride about 90km a day in all weather conditions, and after really short time - maybe a few months to about 6 months - I started to feel that horrible jumping in lever again, and I could see in the eye of the reservoir that the fluid was alot darker than it was from new. Please let me know because I Think that it is really fast wearing out, but maybe it is just how it is?
+jls0439 Hi mate, any bike must have its brake fluid changed at 2 years maximum, and thats even ridden in dry weather only... so if you ride every day in all weather like i do, then i would change it every year at least... maybe even do it mid season before the wet weather comes so its fresh... it doesnt cost much to change, and only takes half hour..!!!
Brilliant as usual my friend. So, is the "juddering" and choppy play in the lever the only symptom pointing to old / bad fluid? Reason I ask is I assume I need a fluid change as there is 12k on my bike, it is 21 years old and it sat idle for some time. Despite that application of the brakes is smooth. Thanks for another great how-to buddy.
+Iron Slim Hey Scott... water in the system wont always make the seals stick like this...it was extreme in my case... also my old ratbike lives out in the rain, and i never seem to ride in the dry for more than one day a week...so if your bike has lived in a dry envorinment, then it wont have much water in the brake fluid... if you have rubber hoses then the back pigment can come off the inside of the rubber over time and contaminate the fluid....its such a simple task and takes no more then half hour for front and back...also the fluid costs pennies.. so why not change it out for good measure buddy, its probably not 21 years old...but if its even more then 2 years old, then not just HD, but any manufacturer recomends to change it..!!!! get it changed and lock the lever in over night once you're done, you'll notice the difference i guarantee it... take care buddy.. all the best. Del;.
great thanks, really love your channel. Learned a lot. I do most of the work on my nike myself. Just love it. It's a lifestyle I guess. I just need a real garage, I do all my work outside ubfortunately. Your video's give some nice tricks and tips to try out yourself. Real biker material. Thanks.
+Peter Hogg No mate, i most certainly wont name the dealer, that would be silly... but you should change brake fluid every two years if you ride mostly in fine weather...and every year if you ride every day in all weather and all winter..!
+BigDan1190 They are stainless steel lines Dan, factory setup is pretty hard to beat, the piggy back thing is just as good as a double line setup, certainly no gain on a big old dollop like this..lol
+thomas hampson Ok, sadly i havent had a change to get close up and personaly with an MT09 yet, (much as id love to lol) so id just refer to the manual... have you got a proper service manual for the bike yet.. ?
+Moonfleet41 The best free service manual i could find was for the American FZ09 non ABS model, Ive ordered the correct manual from ebay on a CD for under £9. Ive also not found a straight answer on the forums yet. Thanks for your time :)
Hi Delboy, Why don't you use an injection for sucking out the old brake fluid? In my (humble ;) opinion it is not such a mess. Thanks for all the awesome tips.
+Peter Lübeck I guess you mean a syringe?.. i guess a wad or kitchen paper is so easy ots just not worth the expence of buying the tool..! thanks for watching.
Love these videos. I hope the dealer seen this. Wanker. Question...at 10:14 you move the cables over slightly. If you weren't bleeding the fluid, would you have been able to move that out of the way? Or since you moved it , it introduced air into the lines and you would have had to bleed the whole system just too.move that over? I have a similar situation, however, my brake fluid is perfectly fine. I just need the cables moved over slightly and don't want to bleed the whole system if I don't have to. Thanks for the video!
Hi mate, there's no suction in the system, so if you back off the banjo bolt, just a tiny fraction, and then attempt to shift the banjo union, if it's still too tight, back it off a fraction more, just till you can force the banjo union round a bit in to your desired position, then nip the banjo bolt back up nice and tight - tape the lever in to the bar overnight, and just in case you have introduced a tiiny fraction of air it will bleed itself out the top no problem, but the golden rule is don't undo that banjo bolt any more than you have to to force that union round slightly, it should slide with a bit of force... hope that helps, good luck, Del
Whoa! Mega detailed! I added new handle bars and the way the banjo was positioned on the stock bars made sense, but with the newer lower styled bars the banjo is now in a position that is adding unnecessary tension on the cable that I am not too keen on. Im going to give this a try. Thanks Del!
Moonfleet41 the copper paste is always used, i never make brake jobs without. bike have round disc shape pads and nothing on the resieving end and only one piston almost as big as the pads ,no gliders or "hinges" only the piston moves ans the caliper swirvels on a axle fitted to the fork, thats why im in this baffled situation!
A lying dealer? Noo! Say it aint so! A dealer just sold me a yamaha with a safety, with leaking front forks, possibly brake caliper and the front tire is about 10 years old...
Oh dear, that sounds an unhappy experience, but they're not all bad and I guess just a few of them are a little too driven by money to look at the more important things, it's a hard life running a dealership, you're loyalties are divided between the importance of safety, the importance of maintaining the business and paying the staff (and shareholders), and hoping that the customer will come back again some day... but there's always a rotten apple aye mate.
+DukeDyson Too right aye buddy, nothing like a little intimate knowledge of the tool the propels you into the distance on a daily basis... and no, no such thing as an honest dealer IMHO..
after watching this video del will be checking my frony brake in morning for any clicks or sqeaks the dealer who sold you that bike was a bullshiter they ll tell you anything to sell tossers ride safe
just like to point out anyone doing this job with brake fluid, please put a rag round all your bike parts,..as you wont have paint left after a week nor will u paint over it,..lucky this rat wont matter .lol
+Gearjammer Ha ha, maybe a slight over reaction....its nothing more than i have come to expect from them...! they are all the same, only interested in your money 'today'... always forget the lasting impression they leave you with, and how that effects your future shopping choices..!
Glad I found your site this summer... absolutely fantastic tutorial, thank you again.
+Croc Ography Thanks mate, you are most kind... and welcome aboard.. Del.
I didn't know that water in the fluid could cause lever judder like you experienced. I've learnt something new and worthwhile here yet again. Thanks Del
+brandywell44 It certainly does mate, certainly when it's as serious and neglected as this was...!
Dellboy this has got to be the 3rd or 4th time your videos have given me helpful tips about serving bits on my bikes. I like to do as much myself as I can but just a quick reminder on the tricks that make it all so easy thanks man keep it up.
+mithickwolf Thanks mate, you're most welcome, so glad it can help you! Take care, Del & Penny!
Another good one! Thanks Del and Penny. 👍
One bit of advice? The use of a clear bleed tube will show any air bubbles.
Just fitted new brake lines to my BMW K75 (customising)...thanks for the bleeding process. I will replay your video to instruct me so I don't get it arse for elbow! Such valuable information. Cheers Del. 👌🏻
+Clatty Bella Hey Clatty, great to hear that the video will help you...good luck with it, and just drop me a line if you get stuck.. Del.
Great tips and instructions as usual Del thank you I’ve got some pre season maintenance to do so am going through all your tiger vids to refresh my memory on how to do it properly,best wishes from Sweden 🇸🇪
Most welcome Nigel, Glad to help, and thank you for your support.
Thanks - I did a brake fluid bleed and renew for both front and rear for Triumph Street Triple 2015 ABS and clean up for the calipers - used the tip to pressure the front and rear brakes - the brakes are better than when they were new - great video as ever
Hi Aidan, So glad to hear the video could help you out, and thank you for the col feedback.. have happy new year mate, and ride safe.. Del.
Great stuff del, Perfect evening viewing material.
+James'sWorld Thanks buddy, much appreciated, glad you enjoyed it !
Excellent with very clear instruction on what causes and how to cure it. Thanks and a new subscriber 👍
Welcome aboard Adrian, much appreciated!
Cheers again for all your commitment and hard work. Dealers! bought tiger 1050 few years back from dealer and told me fork seals had been replaced, handling was bad up front so upon redoing fork oil for 10w noticed different colour fluid in each leg = only replaced damaged seal not knowing viscosity/Air gap in other leg...
Thanks for the kind compliment mate... keep safe and stay well!
Cheers again Delboy, having an absolute mare on 955i after changing one front caliper. Followed your reverse bleed video then the this one showing sequence and bingo! Sorted!!
Nice one Nigel.. glad it helped you out mate..
Lol, oh yeah black paint, black brake fluid. Had the very same thing on my tramp, but mine was due to a temp fix on the calliper... I did find your trick with pinning lever in over night gave it less of that spongy feel that most triumphs seem to have.
thanks Del, been watching your vids, always great info for us DIYers, great channel.
+toecutter Thanks mate, much appreciated, glad you enjoy the videos.. all the best. Del.
Never seen fluid that bad... wow. You are right about the systems with the splitter. My Honda is like that and it's a hell's own job to get the air out of it... LOL. I changed the fluid when I got the bike and it was quite a bit better, but a year or so later I replaced the lines with modern (the bike is 1988) braided ones. What a difference! Two finger squeeze and nearly does stoppies!.
Brakes are important... :-)
Awesome bike Boss! Love the concept!
Brillant videos you do chap thanks appreciated 👏 informative , clear and in depth
Very welcome mate, thanks for the feedback.
I have the same judder i notice when i stop at lights and press the rear brake of my bandit! Golden video!
+Paul Crump Swap the brake fluid by flushing it through Paul. i bet it'll cure it right away..!!
Nicely demonstrated as always fella. Hope plans are going well and have a great holiday season guys..
+GTs Garage Cheers matey, just a typical maintainence job, never stops when you use it every day aye..! good to hear from you fellah... all the best.. Del.
Nice one Del, glad you got it sorted. I've gotta do my clutch fluid soon, so a bit of DBG combined with Haynes should see me good. Have a great Xmas D and P, cheers
+Glenn Makin Thanks mate, glad the video can help, natrually drop us a line if you get stuck, have a great Xmas yourself, all the best D&P!
Thanks mate, appreciate the info description, explanation and demonstration, I learnt something today, its a good day.....
+VlogBiker Thanks mate...every days a school day aye..!
This is the main reason I won't take my bike to a dealer for servicing; if they're prepared to let you ride this out the door after selling it with a free pack of lies, then their record on servicing will be just as woeful.
Granted it's hard work and surprisingly frequent, but If you DIY then at least you know it's been done and you can only blame yourself if it goes t*ts up. On the plus side it is extremely rewarding and you save an absolute wad!
Another nice vid del, keep 'em comin'.
+bagpopuk Tnaks mate, so true, scratch the surface aye.... you never know what tey are up to...
+Moonfleet41 Or not, as the case may be, lol. All the best to you and family, have a good 'un!
Thanks for this video! I have had to adjust my frontbrake lever out and out to maintain brakepressure for the last couple of rides.
This weekend I wanted to prepare the bike for upcoming winter and I just noticed a tiny little drop of brakefluid on the underside of the reservoir. My bike (Nuda 900R) is always parked on the sidestand, which causes the level of brakefluid to reach the top of the reservoir when leaned over. I bet the lid wasn't tightened properly on the reservoir, since the drop of brakefluid.
I better try the trick with leaving the brakelever under pressure overnight....You just earned a sub!
Watched a bunch of your other videos as well - good stuff mate. Thanks for your efforts! Oh and Penny's camerawork is as good as any steadycam :-) RSM8
Hi buddy, how cool - the Nuda is a legend, what an enormous fun bike to ride!
If you are suspecting your brake resevoir is leaking, then might I just suggest not to simply screw it down tighter, as they don't actually need to be that tight - they have a soft rubber seal underneath, which doesn't need much pressure to do it's job, so swinging on the screws could just damage things - what can sometimes happen, if you have had the cap off and laid it on it's back, you will get a tiny amount of fluid will drain above the rubber seal and when you put it back together, the little bit of stray fluid drains out the air holes... and yes, all caps have tiny air holes on the side, otherwise the fluid can't drain down as the pads wear.... it could just be the rubber seal is not properly 'seated', but hey, if the fluid is more than 2yrs old, then why not bleed it all through and change it??!! As the fluid itself will be waterlogged by now .... hope that helps, good luck with it, Del
Yeah the Nuda for sure has some character! Braap Braap hehe
Thanks for your thorough and (very!) fast reply Del. Agreed, better to replace the fluid. Can't go cheap on the brakes. The best part: Thanks to your videos, now I know how to do a proper job, doing it myself :-)
this spring I have to do a starter repair on my sportster I have watched your video on the clutch and a few others .. any advice ??
Thanks del. my royal enfield 535 gt is 2 years old and ridden every day with one disk front and rear.
Bang on form as ever, a very entertaining and educational watch. Lying toe rag dealer though, that fluid looked like it had never been changed, and they damn fine know they can wriggle out of anything that crops up like that after just a few weeks of releasing the bike.
'What did you expect, mate, you only went and rode it didn'tcha?'
Boils my piss.
+pgod1960 Boils mine too mate, but like you say... it will always be wriggled out of with the same old gibbering.. past caring any more mate, its no more than i expect.. they left a foot peg hanger bolt hanging out, and the back wheel 2mm out of alignment.. i guess this is the kind of thing that makes doung yor own maintenance all the more important.. good to hear form you buddy.. keep mending.. Del.
alright mate ,
Thats calipers serviced and fluid bleed and clutch aswell .
once again informative videos easy to follow your a star ,i can see you on discovery channel
Thanks mate, and yeah, we do have a few of our videos on the Discovery UK channel's Turbo Hub, but to have a longer (proper!) show would be just awesome! Glad the videos help out, all the best, Del
Hi del, I've recently noticed that my front brake on my 125 doesn't feel as smooth as it normally does. I checked the window on the master cyclider and it looks like there is moister in it. Think I might have to take the cap of and have a look tomorrow. Thanks for the video Del Otherwise I wouldnt have a clue haha, ride safe
+Jack Jones Yeah, if the lever feels 'crunchy' or 'juddering' then it's a sure sign you've got a mositure build up in there... have a good look inside, it will probably be black and dirty, so just pump through with some fresh fluid and it'll be right as rain!
Nicely done Delboy :) , I always hate bleeding the bloody brakes.
+bigbadbikerbaz Yeah, messy crap job aye...but glad to have working brakes again..lol
I really enjoyed that Del, thanks.
The front brake fluid in my Bandit was black before I changed it, the brakes now make a kinda hissing noise. I need to replace the hoses I'm guessing.
The Bandit will probably be written off, the estimate for repairs was sent to the insurance company today so just waiting to hear their response. Meanwhile they sent me in a van a Kawasaki Z800.. Bonkers looking thing .... Ah black grasshopper!
+James McCreadie Ha ha, they do look odd aye.. like a Transformer.. Front brakes can hiss when they are healthy, its the shear friction of the pads on the disc. and the bigger the discs the louder it can be. nothing to worry about mate, its all correct.. Good luck with the bike.. Del.
+Moonfleet41 mental brakes on the Kawasaki, shame it's winter... thanks for the advice Del, very helpful. There's a lad near me selling a GSX 750, which I've not heard of before, or I can't recall it anyway, good condition with GIVI topbox, so might just take the payout and buy this thing, just forget the Bandit..boohoo!
Really enjoyed your video, thanks again.
Again super video and job done. ;-)
You are my motorcycle-god
+Søren Hjort Hi Soren, good to hear from you sir, thank you for your kind support... glædelig jul, Del.
Another great video Dell. Pretty crappy fluid. Hope you and Penny had a merry Christmas.
+william Needs Thanks William, good to hear from you... have a safe and happy new year mate !
Just to let you know, ordered the rear and front wheel suspension for my Triumph Scrambler from TEC, USA. Things went well and Dave i a nice guy to deal with. Thanks for the hint.
+Bernhard Geisler Thats great to hear Bernhard, im glad they looked after you, and goods luck with the project, you'll love the transformation. take care.. Del.
Another clear and concise 'how to video' Like an oil change, a change of brake fluid is a must do job. OK it will take a while the first time. But after a couple of goes, it becomes an easy job. If you don't mind spending £15-20 a vacuum pump makes the job easier and quicker.
+baccas66 Its really not needed, any fancy tools are not needed, maybe they do make it easier, but ive never bothered.. 2 foot of tube and a jar... job done. Thanka for wathcing buddy... hope them puppies are well... D
+Moonfleet41 It also comes in handy for clutch bleeding. And on my 2007 fireblade it's a P.I.T.A job. Notorious for trapped air.
yep never had one yet with good fluid in just change pads n fluid and do engine and brake service n clutch fluid as soon as i get each bike ..even if it has perfect history stamped its often bullshit...good vid again buddy shows how to do it yourself and be confident in your own bike and not get ripped off.xxxxxx
+springy 2112 Too right mate, even found some loose engine casing bolts on the Scrambler, and we bought that new...go figure..lol
Brilliant :) Thank you as my "Thunderace" has the same problem :)
Will get on that tomorrow :)
Hi Richie, good luck with yous buddy, hope it goes well for you.. Del.
All sorted now :) Job done and you should have seen the state of the old brake fluid, worse than "The Generals" FFS.
Ha ha, saw that... looked like red chilli sauce... yum.!
it was bloody nasty mate... lol
You don't have to open/close the bleed screw every time you pump because the hose is drowned and no air can go back in - just leave it slightly open. Thanks for sharing 🏍
+Niels Hansen No mate, that will suck the old dirty fluid back in, when you release the lever, the suction created by the piston moving back along the master cylinder will then not only suck some new fluid down from the reservior, but it will also suck the old fluid back up, the suction created is not directional...close off the valve and then 100% of the suction is directed to the top... try it yourself, you'll see.!
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you and your family ;-D
+Søren Hjort And the same best wishes to you and yours Soren, always good to hear from you sir..
Hey man. I got a stuck piston in the break handle. Any tricks on gettin it out without having to take it all apart?
I just have a question: I ride a 2015 Triump Tger Ex 1220cc and it just turned 16.000k, now the clutch is giving issue, I’d check the reservó and it was a little low, I feel it to expect, but unfortunately it doesn’t work, now I like to bleed but I don’t find the bleeder below, can you help me out.
Thanks
again good stuff .. before the harley video I never knew brake fluid went bad
+Scott Wilson Yeah, its not a common issue, most looked after bikes get the brake fluid changed at major service so you never see it done... Starter is easy enough, its a bolt on part, are you just replacing it..?
from what I have seen I have to remove clitch cable assembly to get side cove off etc as bolts are from the inside not on the out side
my sportster is 2006 1200 cc custom
meaning I have to pull off the transmission cover etc
+Scott Wilson Yeah, thats right, but its not complexed, If you have a standard Sportster manual, the whole proceedure is covered in really good detail...! have a read through it anfd see how you feel..!!
you should get some hex screws for the reservoir caps..i did after i boogerd up the Phillips screws..
Going to check brake fluid now...:)
after you hold the lever in over night do . the air that travels up just leaves out of the breather up top?
Yes it does!
Moonfleet41 I assumed it did and yes this morning the brakes were sharper :)
Hi, just got a bike and pads seem close to bare metal but fluid is at top of reservoir.
Should I take some fluid out before I go to fit new pads.
Hi buddy, that's a sure sign someone has been 'topping up' as it should always be low when your pads are worn,/... so yes indeed, suck the fluid out the reservoir completely, then stick the new pads in, and bleed the system through with some fresh fluid, it wont hurt as it should be done every 2yrs anyway!
@@Moonfleet41 my thoughts exactly, thanks for the reply.
I'm not taking the caliper off so il probably just blast the caliper down with brake cleaner and make sure the pistons are grit free before pushing them back flush to accommodate thicker pads.
Very understandable instructions. However, once there is sufficient fluid in the jar to completely submerge the tube under the fluid there is no further need to close the bleed valve between brake lever squeezes as long as the tube is below the old fluid in the jar preventing air from returning up the hose. At this point you can more aggressively squeeze the lever to force any air at the "T" splitter to be forced out. Maintaining clean fluid in the master cylinder is very important as not to re-introduce air into the system. What do you think of this idea??? Absolutely great tutorials you provide. Ride safe mate
+Blackhawk 247 Yeah but then it can suck old nasty fluid back up.
+Blackhawk 247 Like BigDan said buddy, the suction from the master cylinder will pull the dirty fluid right back up the tube....you must expell the old fluid by closing off the bleed valve in order for 100% of the available suction to pull clean fluid down from the reservior.... try it yourself and you'll see...! thanks for watching buddy.. all the best.. Del.
Moonfleet41
Thanks for the reply. Never thought of that.
Hi Del,
Excellent video and very informative, I spent hours trying to bleed my CBR a year or so back and could of done with this video.
I had a similar problem with the location of the brake lines to the bleed nipple and I was told to replace the copper washers when you undo the lines as they wont seal properly again? I notice you didn't so just wondered if that's not really required?
Sam
+Sammy B1988 Hi Sam, not really vital if you are just shifting the banjos round a tad....like all things Sam, if they weap a bit, then replace them..but ive moved lots of banjos while fitting accessories, things like handlebars and mirrors...and i never loosen more then a tiny bit, just enough to be able to force them round a bit..works for me.!
Thinking of doing this on cbr 125 (btw i fixed it :D) but just wondering to bleed my brake fluid will i have to push the pistons back in or will it just flush it all through?
+Meterz. No, all you have to do is bleed it through, no need to touch the pistons unless they are sticking...!
alright i just assumed i would have to push the pistons back to get the brake fluid back up but thanks :D
Just bought a used Harley-Davidson bike from my local dealer. Odometer is at 975m I asked if 1000m service was done on it. Was assured, yes it was. NOT... crazy thinking an American institution as old as Harley is would be honest. It could just be the dealer in my area but overall still reflects on Harley themselves. Now I'm having to go through and do bike maint on my own....this is my first bike ever buying experience was fine for most part but now finding Harley charges way too much. Again feeling they take advantage of ppl. Overall happy I have the opportunity to have a motorcycle....
HI there, Im sorry to hear that, its such a shame when they let you down like that, they have no idea how much that impacts on their own reputation, and like you said, the rep of the HD company themselves, that dealer is a representative and should at least treat you right...
I guess you have a pretty much new bike there though, so there wont be that much wrong with it other than age.. if its older than 3 years, then maybe change out the time dated fluids like brake fluid and fork oil, other then its no more then a good once over and a safety check...
On a Harley there should be a "critical fasteners check" carried out on the first service, and its a specific list of things to check and re-torque...but from speaking with the HD Tech guys that i know, they tell me that they have hardly ever found anything loose, its more paranoia from the factory, and all about warranty liability.... so just go over all the major fasteners and make sure they are all secure..
good luck with it and enjoy your bike.. i always see the dealer as just a place to buy parts and meet up with my buddies for a coffee now and again.. id never buy a bike from them, dont let it trash your view of the brand, Harley Davidson bikes are awesome, all you had was some bad customer service. aye. ....!
Moonfleet41 Thank you for your reply and the tips :)))
Strange orientation of the sight glass. It is supposed to be oriented to the back, in order to be seen when riding. At least this is the solution on my Bandit and I find it normal.
Rotten fluid and a rotten dealer as well! Quality vid as usual. Happy Christmas Del & Penny, ride safe 🐯
+glenbawndog Naah, not a rotten dealer, maybe a cheeky fibber... its not unusual to find them cutting corners and telling the buyer what they want to hear at the point of purchase... Thanks for your kind wishes mate, and Happy Christmas to you an yours.. take care mate... Del.
Hi Delboy! I have a Triumph Tiger 800XC 2014. I've changed the tires and cleaned the brakes. Rear pads are touching the disc and I don't know why! The 14mm bolt was not freely going all the way through. I had to apply some force (less than 27Nm) until the threads reached rear plate. Is that normal? Pedal was going all the way down, so I thought there was air in the hose. Did the bleeding. There was. But it is exactly as before! Pedal traveling all the way down and pads are touching. Piston is 3mm out only. It seems there is no space for the pads. Could the calliper mount be wrong (14mm bolt or clipper inside?). Help! :-) Could you imagine the issue? Thanks a lot in advance!
Got it! Man! the ABS sensor was touching the ABS disc, not the pads! There is a washer (a washer!) that should go between the ABS mounting piece and the body, not between the screw and the ABS mounting piece. Oh my... I hope I can help some other soul with this tiny thing... Cheers!
Wow, that was nasty! I've never seen that juddery lever effect. Is it true that if there's enough water in the fluid then it can expand and push out your brake pistons as the temperature drops to 4C? That could bring a rough end to a cold morning...
+Lasty I think you would suffer far more obvius symptoms, such as the seals juddering like this, long before it forze and expanded if you had so much water in that freezing would cause them to pop out ... pistons usually pop out cos salt collects round the dust seals and jams them !
Good stuff Del thanks. I cant believe you came across a lying salesman.........ha ha
If the dealer or previous owner ever says it's just been fully serviced, just assume it has had no service at all.
+risc19 Yeah, pretty much.
Great series of instructions,have learnt a lot.Please don't take offense,but please use gloves when handling fluids as they can cause dermatitis.
Thank you David, wise words well said, will try harder! Glad you enjoy the videos!
Hey Dell, i need some help. My front brake lever does the same thing when i brake hard and i can actually feel my suspension pulse up and down when coming to a stop.. Changing the fluid didn't help, do think my rotor is warped?
+RoadwinDasR By your statement 'yours does that', I presume you mean the creaking judder on the lever??? That is water in the master cylinder that causes that, so change the fluid that should cure that part.... if your lever, however, is oscilating, then that's a separate issue, and could, indeed, be a little warpage int he disc but it's not always physically bent, it could just be jammed and stuck bobbins... try doing the bobbins clean to free up the rotor and that will probably cure it, as the discs themselves very rarely get actually warped.... there's a video on it if you need it!
+Moonfleet41 Thank you! Yes, i mean that creaking judder on the lever, it does it when i press the lever and changing the fluid didn't help, it still does it! About the rotor, mine is not a floating rotor, it is secured to the wheel with 6 hex bolts so no bobbins to clean sadly...
+RoadwinDasR Ok, the juddering is caused by water in the master cylinder, the brake fluid is mildy lubricating and will help the rubber seal slide in the tube, but water will make it stick... it could be that just changing the fluid simply hasn;t flushed it all out, and could be some corrosion in there too... if it was my bike, my next step would be to strip the master cylinder and clean it throughly and re-build it with fresh fluid, that would cure it for sure!
Moonfleet41 Alright thanks Dell! When i do rebuild it do I need new seals or the old ones would work? Ordering parts for my bike takes a long time sadly..
+RoadwinDasR Use the same seals for now as they are probably not leaking, just be very careful with them and you will be able to re-use them ! Only buy new seals if cleaning it and re-building it, doesn't work...... also, take a good look inside the bore of the cylinder tube and look for pitting, or corrosion, and if there is, clean it off, an old toothbrush with the bristles cut down is useful for this....
How often is recommended to change fluid? I Got a new front brake last year, and it felt great! It was Nice and smooth. The old brake was really sticky and "jumps" alot in the lever action. I ride about 90km a day in all weather conditions, and after really short time - maybe a few months to about 6 months - I started to feel that horrible jumping in lever again, and I could see in the eye of the reservoir that the fluid was alot darker than it was from new. Please let me know because I Think that it is really fast wearing out, but maybe it is just how it is?
+jls0439 Hi mate, any bike must have its brake fluid changed at 2 years maximum, and thats even ridden in dry weather only... so if you ride every day in all weather like i do, then i would change it every year at least... maybe even do it mid season before the wet weather comes so its fresh... it doesnt cost much to change, and only takes half hour..!!!
+Moonfleet41 okay then. I Can now see that it wears out faster than expected. Thanks for the Quick answer, it was nice to know.
nice fix
Brilliant as usual my friend. So, is the "juddering" and choppy play in the lever the only symptom pointing to old / bad fluid? Reason I ask is I assume I need a fluid change as there is 12k on my bike, it is 21 years old and it sat idle for some time. Despite that application of the brakes is smooth. Thanks for another great how-to buddy.
+Iron Slim Hey Scott... water in the system wont always make the seals stick like this...it was extreme in my case... also my old ratbike lives out in the rain, and i never seem to ride in the dry for more than one day a week...so if your bike has lived in a dry envorinment, then it wont have much water in the brake fluid... if you have rubber hoses then the back pigment can come off the inside of the rubber over time and contaminate the fluid....its such a simple task and takes no more then half hour for front and back...also the fluid costs pennies.. so why not change it out for good measure buddy, its probably not 21 years old...but if its even more then 2 years old, then not just HD, but any manufacturer recomends to change it..!!!! get it changed and lock the lever in over night once you're done, you'll notice the difference i guarantee it... take care buddy.. all the best. Del;.
that trick 17:00 is worth its weight in gold!
+wetnoodl Tnaks buddy, works real well, you can even do it periodically to stiffen up the feel at the lever, always improves things..
+wetnoodl that trick saved me recently, wish i had known about that a couple weeks ago.
nice bike, how did you do all those nuts along the sides? And the skull?, very nice.
Hi Christiaan, I made videos of fitting the skull, and the rivets... they are all in the "Triumph Tiger" playlist on the channel.. !
great thanks, really love your channel. Learned a lot. I do most of the work on my nike myself. Just love it. It's a lifestyle I guess. I just need a real garage, I do all my work outside ubfortunately. Your video's give some nice tricks and tips to try out yourself. Real biker material. Thanks.
how often would you change it? can you name the dealer? another great video del thanks.
+Peter Hogg No mate, i most certainly wont name the dealer, that would be silly... but you should change brake fluid every two years if you ride mostly in fine weather...and every year if you ride every day in all weather and all winter..!
Thought you would've combined this with some new stainless brake lines, a 2 line set up to do away with the piggy back nonsense :D
+BigDan1190 They are stainless steel lines Dan, factory setup is pretty hard to beat, the piggy back thing is just as good as a double line setup, certainly no gain on a big old dollop like this..lol
Great video. That bike is way to dirty.
Great Video :) Do i follow the same procedure for ABS brakes?
+thomas hampson It depends on the bike Thomas, there are different systems on different bikes..!
+Moonfleet41 cheers for the reply del, its an MT09 if that helps?
+thomas hampson Ok, sadly i havent had a change to get close up and personaly with an MT09 yet, (much as id love to lol) so id just refer to the manual... have you got a proper service manual for the bike yet.. ?
+Moonfleet41 The best free service manual i could find was for the American FZ09 non ABS model, Ive ordered the correct manual from ebay on a CD for under £9. Ive also not found a straight answer on the forums yet. Thanks for your time :)
Hi Delboy,
Why don't you use an injection for sucking out the old brake fluid? In my (humble ;) opinion it is not such a mess. Thanks for all the awesome tips.
+Peter Lübeck I guess you mean a syringe?.. i guess a wad or kitchen paper is so easy ots just not worth the expence of buying the tool..! thanks for watching.
+Moonfleet41 well I bought one at the pharmacy for 69 euro cent. Money well spent. good night!
Love these videos. I hope the dealer seen this. Wanker.
Question...at 10:14 you move the cables over slightly. If you weren't bleeding the fluid, would you have been able to move that out of the way? Or since you moved it , it introduced air into the lines and you would have had to bleed the whole system just too.move that over? I have a similar situation, however, my brake fluid is perfectly fine. I just need the cables moved over slightly and don't want to bleed the whole system if I don't have to.
Thanks for the video!
Hi mate, there's no suction in the system, so if you back off the banjo bolt, just a tiny fraction, and then attempt to shift the banjo union, if it's still too tight, back it off a fraction more, just till you can force the banjo union round a bit in to your desired position, then nip the banjo bolt back up nice and tight - tape the lever in to the bar overnight, and just in case you have introduced a tiiny fraction of air it will bleed itself out the top no problem, but the golden rule is don't undo that banjo bolt any more than you have to to force that union round slightly, it should slide with a bit of force... hope that helps, good luck, Del
Whoa! Mega detailed! I added new handle bars and the way the banjo was positioned on the stock bars made sense, but with the newer lower styled bars the banjo is now in a position that is adding unnecessary tension on the cable that I am not too keen on. Im going to give this a try. Thanks Del!
well ive tryed everything on my squeeking brakes ,pads have 11mm on both so dont think its them BUT they are green....
+transdetendal Does the bike have backing plates, are they maybe missing?,
no ,it never had and i cant seem to find eny for it, thought bout making some but i havent got to it since i dont belive it helps!maybe im wrong. !
+transdetendal If they were designed ot have 'squeel plates' then you must fit them....otherwise, just soime copperslip on the back of the pads..?
Moonfleet41
the copper paste is always used, i never make brake jobs without. bike have round disc shape pads and nothing on the resieving end and only one piston almost as big as the pads ,no gliders or "hinges" only the piston moves ans the caliper swirvels on a axle fitted to the fork, thats why im in this baffled situation!
My VW had much worse:P
Think brown gravy
Brake fluid is ‘hydroscopic’ it absorbs water from the atmosphere, so I change mine every 12 months...
гут😁😁😁😁🤟🏽
just for me again.
Pull the break, open and close the valve, and let the break go?
I think your like will say yes? :D
Would you name and shame the dealer that lied?
A lying dealer? Noo! Say it aint so! A dealer just sold me a yamaha with a safety, with leaking front forks, possibly brake caliper and the front tire is about 10 years old...
Oh dear, that sounds an unhappy experience, but they're not all bad and I guess just a few of them are a little too driven by money to look at the more important things, it's a hard life running a dealership, you're loyalties are divided between the importance of safety, the importance of maintaining the business and paying the staff (and shareholders), and hoping that the customer will come back again some day... but there's always a rotten apple aye mate.
Sometimes dealers get exactly the reputation they deserve, lying bastids. Get to know your bike is the best advice. Nice one buddy :)
+DukeDyson Too right aye buddy, nothing like a little intimate knowledge of the tool the propels you into the distance on a daily basis... and no, no such thing as an honest dealer IMHO..
after watching this video del will be checking my frony brake in morning for any clicks or sqeaks the dealer who sold you that bike was a bullshiter they ll tell you anything to sell tossers ride safe
+simon “cueball” gooner It's all about the profit mate, nothing new under the sun... happy xmas mate
very true merry christmas too you too buddy
I can one up you on this. This was my 1996 Honda CB250 Hornet when I bought it a few years back...
i.imgur.com/6xQJ5Ma.jpg
+MikeIllusion92 Blimey, looks like caramel...lol
Pretty sure it was the original Honda fluid hahaha. No idea but, needless to day it was neglected.
just like to point out anyone doing this job with brake fluid, please put a rag round all your bike parts,..as you wont have paint left after a week nor will u paint over it,..lucky this rat wont matter .lol
+brian palmer DOT 4 is not corrosive to paint buddy...
20 plus years of fixing bikes never, ever seen fluid that cack. Words fail me......go put a brick through the dealers front window.
+Gearjammer Ha ha, maybe a slight over reaction....its nothing more than i have come to expect from them...! they are all the same, only interested in your money 'today'... always forget the lasting impression they leave you with, and how that effects your future shopping choices..!
what a ugly bike
+brian palmer ... glad you like it !