FJR1300 Fairing Removal And Coolant Change How To
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- čas přidán 21. 10. 2016
- FJR1300 Fairing Removal And Coolant Change How To - This pertains mostly to gen III 2013+ Yamaha FJR1300's but the overall procedure is good for any year or bike. This shows you how to remove all the fairings and the book spec coolant change procedure. This is the same as the dealer does if you pay for the service. If you choose to use other coolants or flush procedures that's fine, but it's not called for or IMO needed for an on-schedule properly maintained bike. I can not advise you on other procedures, do your own research.
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As usual, an excellent 'How to' video that will save folks a lot of money and reassurance knowing that it's done properly. Well done Bryan.
Very good! Here are my additions:
8:10 - you don't need to remove that black triangle piece from the right side fairing. Just leave it attached. 8:37 - disconnect the red triangle only at the bottom and left side fairing -- you can leave it attached to the right side fairing also.
Also some of the screws go into clips that are slipped on to the body and they can fall off as you are reassembling. I really hate these things. I would have a couple of extras on hand just in case. You can also retighten them with pliars if they come off and then slide back on.
I have an early FJR but the differences are not great. So far I have managed to do several repairs using your videos as a guide.
Thank you, most informative in layman's language in a friendly manner.
Awesome video. I changed the coolant and installed a new battery on my 2014 today. I would have never gotten the fairings off without this video. 4 years old and 34000 miles and did the first change. Coolant still looked good but was below the low line. Thanks for the video!
I enjoy your methodical calm manner. I have to do serving normally piecemeal and in the evening after work and things never seem to be as calm as this and i definitely swear alot more. thanks
Thanks for this. I am changing the right side fairing in the next couple of weeks. I now feel confident.
I just bought a 16`FJR, this will be gold for me.
Very good videos, thanks for uploading such excellent content
Thank you Bryan !! A good winter project to get done... I am thinking of doing that clutch mod you did. Your video is a definite plus in making the decision.
Dear Sir you say i "hope" ..no you "help" very very many fjr riders, lessons to knowhow self your fjr, thank you...netherlands..
That was a great video as always.... nice work Brian, thanks for the lesson, be safe.
Great video as usual Bryan. Just writing this as the bike heats up .. shouldn't take long .. it's 36C here atm. Now the tough bit. Putting it all back together :) Thanks again.
Perfect timing! Was needing to do this.
Great video! They sure changed the fairing design between Gens I and III. I have a ton of hidden screws to remove and replace.
Excellent video thank you installing frame sliders aka oggys and would of never figured you would have to take the top part above the cluster to take the farings off. 👍👍so clear and helpful cheers
What a pain in the behind ! ! I think my next bike will be a naked one, but thank you for the great video.
Thank you for these videos, great job.
Excellent how to, your instructions are flawless! Thanks you so much!
Great videos. Great videos. Great videos. Thank you so much. If the Stealerships knew how much you cost them they would send someone with a pinky ring to see you. Thanks alot.
I have to replace my front brake/cruse switch and the video on how to remove the front plastic is a great help.
Brilliant, used this video to release the dash panel to access my battery on my 2013 Gen 3.... Thank you,
I love your work, about to do this on my Australian FJR 1300 ex Police VIP bike
Already changed engine oil & filter, full flush of brake & clutch fluids and final trans shaft drive oil
You inspire confidence in my ability, thanks from NSW Australia
Awesome video! A huge help when you’ve never worked on a motorcycle
Wow, thanks man, that was very helpful !! It's crazy how intricate these panels are, and how difficult they are to remove... once again, thanks :)
Always, as usual, great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. Thanks for doing such a great job with your filming.
Gacias por otro magnífico vídeo, en la línea habitual.
Done that today. Thanks for the help.
Very helpful. Thank you very much!
Came in handy for me. Great video.
Excellent video as always. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I appreciate it!
excellent video! thank you!
Thanks for this. great video as always. Greatings from Germany
Great video Bryan. I was wondering how to do this.
Great detailed advice
thanks! I asked you for this on Facebook and then found it.
Just now doing a cooling fluid exchange on my Gen2 (2008) FJR. I was pleasantly surprised to find that (although still reasonably time consuming) I was able to do the job (including a distilled water flush) without taking the bike apart aka Yamaha directives. Yes, I cheated. I was able to exploit the malleability of the quality plastics to gain just enough access to the required drains and filler points without removal. Good video though and I was able to use some of your information to get the job done even though my bike is an earlier generation. Cheers.
excellent! looks like a prime time to change battery.
Thanks Bryan!
Thanks, Bryan, Mine is an 07 but should be much like what you have shown here.
Enjoy your videos. They are very helpful and entertaining too. I watched this one because my 05 FJR1300 like all bikes I have owned puts out a lot of heat on the left side. I recently purchased vented Tourmaster riding pants and now I really notice the heat. Not bad at high speeds but a bear at slower moments and in traffic. I was hoping to see if there is a decent amount of foam baffling on your cowling to try and see if maybe at some point when my bike was serviced that maybe they removed foam baffling on the left side and didnt replace it. I know your gen3 is a very different cowling but, I wanted to see it anyway. I believe your old FJR was a previous Gen FJR. I also noticed my right side cowling is completely sealed in foam baffleing to ensure proper cooling air flow yet my left side has only a few pieces of foam with lots of gaps. I also fly and race an airplane so high and low pressure baffling is something I understand and sealing all air flow so as to properly flow air is important. Thoughts ? Is this just the way it is on my 05 ? Yes, I have always noticed it but with these new vented pants it makes me wonder.
can advise on which are used for the long and short for the push connector. I got it mixed up... :(
Hey, love your videos really informative, especially as i have protection bars to put on the front of my 2014 ex-police FJR1300A and the fairings need to come off. I noticed when reading the manual when applying the back brake that the lower front right pad is engaged as well. I now have a small shudder coming from the front brakes and would check how worn the pads are, but unsure how to remove the pads and what ever that thing is called that they sit in. Can you do a vidoe on how to remove and check please. Thanks Jason.
Thanx from Denmark... :-D
Many thanks for this video, but I still miss the procedure how to remove the side cowlings. A lot of work and you have to do this gently😅
Bryan quick question, I just bought a 2014 fjr in red like yours and I am looking for the paint code to due a few touch ups. I am wanting to use aerosol cans and the code I got from Yamaha was incorrect. I know that it the bike is painted tri-colour and I have the correct metallic paint, but incorrect base red. Hopefully you can help!
It helps to leave radiator cap on when unscrewing coolant drain bolt to drain fluid. Once bolt is out, then unscrew radiator cap.
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE LEFT FAIRING TO DO COOLANT CHANGE.
I have engine guards and a lot of crap bolted to them, so I did not want to remove the left fairing. Instead, I removed the dash bezel and the inner glovebox panel. Glovebox panel is actually two pieces and when you remove the one closest to the center of the bike, you can get to the rad cap.
Use a Mityvac to suck the fluid out of the overflow bottle and a funnel with tube to put fluid back in. Simple.
Yeah that’s great unless you actually want to clean it, which you should.
@rushnatu I think most people were able to figure that out.
thanks
replace the mirror is the same as just removing the dash panel right?
The fastener at the underbelly where the two halves of the main cowl come together is missing. Is that just onea this coarse-thread phillips screws?
I use those plastic auto trim removal tools to pop the dash panels. I find it easier with those. Also I replaced the screws with round plastic knobs with appropriate sized screw atatched. (mcmaster carr)
Since your pretty much done with the FJR videos. May I suggest your next project bike be a FZ-10 because there a so many great accessories and parts for this hot bike. Also, how about doing a video for a spool adapter?
Wont the fluid in the tank be sucked back in the system while it s cooling down? Will it really need topping up through the radiator cap?
Hello,
I recently got a 2016 FJR1300ES and lover your channel... I'm in FL also.
Can you recommend your favorite FJR forum? seems like it would be a great place to throw out questions to other FJR Fans.
Question, when you say up to temperature do you mean when the fans come on or 72°c as i am in Canada and metric which is the riding temp on hgwy? Thanks in advance.
Mark
I am trying to hook up Spirit Beast grip guards on my 2014 FJR300A the spirit Beast have 4 wires 2 for running light and two for turn signal. The 4 wires on fjr turn signal plug has 1 black/white ground blue/red power and 2 brown. I wired one brown to b/w ground for turn, (brown to ground) and it works fine. My problem is the other brown is not a ground to go with blue/red power can you help. These turn signal plugs are 64 and 65 in the wireing diagram. Bob
Tksssss
Antonio sampaio
Hey Brian,
Your FJR videos so far have been an absolute god send, thanks pal! The instrument bulbs in the dash for indicators blew on me a few weeks back, not exactly a huge issue but an annoyance when I leave and indicator on. Any chance you could point out a time in the video where the bolts are located to remove the dash? Not going to ask you do a video specifically, but if you happen to take your fairings off again this year could you possibly remove the dash as well?
Thanks again, and for the cigar videos :)
James
It should be in this video, somewhere:
czcams.com/video/VWX97-K7gzM/video.html
Hi
My fjr 2014 temperature oscillant
Tô much, not stop.
Please help me
Does this model FJR have a bleed screw for the coolant system? The gen1 FJR's have a bleed screw which is located in a small housing in the water plumbing that is on top of the rocker cover. The fuel tank has to be lifted to gain access to it. Air travels to the highest point in the system and this bleed screw housing is the highest point.
No
Great video, as usual Bryan. One question: when you say let the bike idle and get up to temperature, do you let it idle long enough for the fans to come on? I have a Gen II, with bars (not a digital) readout for temp. Would I let it idle until it's showing half way, or until the fans start?
Thanks in advance for your help. It if anyone else can help, I appreciate your input all the same.
Cheers!
until the fan kicks in which should be at the 4th bar
@@rickbat Not sure what you mean by 4th bar. Gen 3 has temperatures. The fan kicks on around 220 degrees.
@@robertbrandywine i have the gen1 i guess i have more bars then
My 2015 FJR took a bad fall in my garage. The part that the mirror mounts to, called a stay 1 when i ordered it has busted. Any info on removing the entire front headlight and dash assembly would be helpful. The service manual does not help much.
czcams.com/video/VWX97-K7gzM/video.html
I got a 2010 model . Coolant on same side
With the panels removed... Would this not give easier access if you where changing headlites?
Yes but it would take longer
Do you ever have time to ride it?
Why would there be any coolant loss? From my understanding, usually the "low" mark is the fill mark for when the bike is cold and when the engine warms up the level will rise to the "high". Not like it actually matters though because there is still enough room for the level to rise.
There is normal loss in ANY cooling system. The hoses allow the water in the coolant to evaporate. Does not mean there is a leak. That little bit of loss in 2 years is actually damn good.
Would anyone know if the Gen 1 would be the same except for the side panels?
No, very different.
Why do you pull off fairing lower on the right side Bryan! I did not see what had to be done on the right side!
To get to the drain
If one wants to simply change the coolant, what is the least which must be removed and how?
Thanks.
You’re looking at it.
Thank you.
So the entire fairing must be removed to replace the coolant?
I wonder what kind of thinking goes into (Yamaha) making a plan like that.
It's nothing unusual with a fairing bike
Good grief!
Tom F: One of the things I've learned in recent years is that the poor access design is intentional. Although my experience with bikes is from years ago (I owned and ran a MC dealership - Honda and then Yamaha) and therefore of little relevance, it's still easy to spot poor design. However after my return to the MC world a few years ago, I've discovered numerous modifications to make owner mechanical access much easier.
For example, in a Yamaha 1100 twin cruiser, the oil filter was intentionally placed behind the exhaust pipe which had to be removed to change the filter. An easy work-around was to install a filter relocation kit which cut filter change time by 75%.
A modification to the tupperware covering the battery on my 2013 FJR greatly eased battery access. Yamaha has since modified the cover. An access panel over the coolant fill cap would save hours in topping up/changing the coolant.
These intentional and unnecessary obstructions are really a PITA.
Is it the same with a 2002 model fjr
He said no, it isn't. This is Gen 3 only.
Regarding the comment about proper torque for the water pump drain bolt, "Hand snug only, do not even think about putting a torque wrench on this"--isn't the purpose of a torque wrench to avoid the ambiguity of terms like "hand snug" by providing an objective measurement? How would it hurt to, say, tighten the bolt down to your idea of "hand snug", but do it with a torque wrench and once you've got it where you think it's right, then look at the wrench and just tell us that measurement?
torque wrench and a manual that tells you the torques, these things don't get hand tighten at the yamaha factory, they use a torque wrench for that, hand tighten it and you risk the bolt to loosen up and your coolant to leak while riding ;)
I would not do just hand snug anyway. With a very small crescent wrench or open end wrench, tighten moderately. You won't be able to generate much torque with such a small tool anyway. I had to exert quite a bit of force to get mine to break loose as it came from the factory.
Get the proper torque wrench, one that reads in in lbs.
No reason to change if it's clean and tests good.