Episode 51 - Cabin Air Filter Replacement 2016 Ford Transit Connect
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Welcome! In this video I replace both of the cabin air filters in my wife's 2016 Ford Transit Connect. This video should be valid for any 2014-2018 Transit Connect. Due to feedback I got from one viewer, I'm going to add that disconnecting the battery before you get started on the front filter is a pretty good idea. Not required, but an easy away to avoid harness pins from potentially shorting or popping fuses by bumping into metal things.
Want to see more videos? Visit my channel below!
/ mazdab3k
WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own risk. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I removed and gently washed the rear pollen filter with warm soapy water then dried it by squeezing it in a dry towel. It works great if the filter is just regular dirty. It came out very clean and it saved $30. It's just a very crude filter for large particles. I noticed that filter material is the same material as register vent filters sold in hardware stores for $5 a pack. You can cut them to a cone shape and glue the ends together to fit the "coffee filter" plastic basket holder.
If that works, great!
Best video out there for a Transit filter change. Thanks for putting it together.
Glad I was able to help. Also glad to hear that I'm not the only one making TC videos.
Thanks for the video. It was helpful. Just purchased a 2015 for the shop. We already have a 2011 and there is a huge difference where things are located and accessed. Like someone said below, the battery is really difficult to get to, but on the 2011 it is real easy.
Just to help out on the cabin filter replacement, you don't have to take off those wire connectors from the fuse box. You only have to release the two tabs ( a good shot is at 6:49 of your video) on the bottom of the fuse box and move the whole box towards you and slip the filter up behind it then slide filter to the left into the opening. It is still a little difficult because the filter is actually bigger than the opening causing it to squish a little bit but, not as much as from the front of the fuse box. Hope this helps.
Strictly speaking you can get the filter out without removing all the relays, but it's a pain. If you can find a different way that keeps from having to pull relays, more power to you. Another oil change or two and it will be time to do this all over again...
@@MazdaB3K My solution does not involve removing "all the relays". There are no wires to be removed or relays. Just release the two tabs on the bottom of fuse box (look at 6:49 of your video) and the whole fuse box separates from its holder on the kick panel.
Any way to make it easier and faster I'm for it.
Thanks worked great
Super helpful thanks!
Happy to help! I noticed there are very few quality videos for the Transit Connect, so I make sure to put up a video of any work that I do to it.
Thanks for video, I have done this before without taking the connectors out, was a pain, but got it done. Just had the front stut assemblies replaced to the tune of 1k...ouch. I dont have the equipment at home to change out stuts....
Front struts are quite annoying. Hammer, floor jack, bottle jack and the right wrenches and sockets will get it done but it's definitely a pain. To me having to pull the wiper motors and then resetting the wipers is the hardest part.
I bought Bilsteins to put on both ends, then found out about 1k to install fronts!! They still sit in my garage at 67k miles. I guess I"ll do it when thy leak.
Thank you.
Glad this video was able to help you.
There is no bolt from the factory on the front filter door/cover. Great video...Thank you
I'm glad the video helped out. I should have some new content for the Transit Connect within a few weeks. It's time for it to have a coolant drain and fill.
I purchased a ford transit connect xlt 2.5 2016. But some electrical parts in the engine area on the driver side coming out of the fuse boxe are mising, i just have the wires cut out. One of it is before of the ambient sensor and it has 11 wires and the other part missing is before the driver fogg lamp and driver side parking sensor in the bumper and it has 9 wires, can you help me telling me what parts are missing. How can i send you some pictures of those cut out wires.
If you have gutted wiring, you are going to need a wiring book to work on repairing that. These can normally be found on eBay, or you can purchase a subscription to chilton's repair guides. I did some quick googling for you and came up with the following:
Repair and Wiring Manual: www.factory-manuals.com/expand-2016-ford-transit-connect-repair-manual-2187.html
Online Subscription: repair.chiltondiy.com/2016/Ford/Transit%20Connect/Repair-Manual-Online
Wiring guide only: www.ebay.com/itm/384954918037?hash=item59a119e495:g:LdIAAOSwMS9iLnOl
I myself will probably grab these paper manuals off eBay, as I'm sure something is going to come up where I need documentation to look at in order to make the repair.
Good Luck!
Thank you for your time and help
Is it really necessary to get those cam locks out of the way? Would it be ok to bend the filter to get it in? That Bosch filter fits into this van? They charged me more than $30 for one at Ford. The one below the seat cost even more.
How is your van coming along btw?
You can leave the connectors in place, but it becomes significantly harder to get the filter in and out. Another viewer commented he found a different way to do this which was much easier and he shared it in the comments. It's not too hard to find the front cabin filter, you can pick that up on Amazon. The rear filter though I had to buy from Ford.
As to the van, it is no more. My wife hit a deer a few weeks back and it was a total loss. The green E-150 van that is new to the channel is the replacement.
@@MazdaB3K I just saw that comment you referred me to. I guess I'll try that if it's easy to reconnect. I know of your van and it's a shame you don't have it anymore. Wanted to see how you maintain it. I just inquired about the new van bc you had all this coolant getting mixed with the oil. You mentioned before that it seems to be coming along pretty well.
Yeah, I replied before I realized it was you. Just came in from working on the E-150 actually. There were two failures, both resulting in fluids mixing in places they should not. One failure was the upper intake gaskets. That was letting coolant into the oil, main problem. Second failure was a failed oil cooler. Best I can tell it had been slowly leaking for some amount of time but it gave up while I was testing my repair on the gaskets. Pumped about 1.5 quarts of oil into the coolant. I got the oil good and clean and finally today got most of the oil out of the cooling system.
After doing that I replaced all the main cooling hoses, except for the heater core hoses. Those are a separate series of parts I didn't have on hand. I've also replaced the bad oil cooler with a new Motorcraft one.
End result for today is clean oil and clean coolant. I still need to buy more coolant and test, but things are looking much better.
The goal for tomorrow is to replace the worn out system belt, squeaky idler pulley, finish topping off the coolant, put the doghouse back on and test the HVAC systems.
I followed the video to replace my cabin filter and i unplugged the few things you unplugged and now all the lights and warnings on my car have turned on and a lot of the electrical doesnt work. Is there a reset im missing?
No. I'm going to guess that you forgot to plug some of the big connectors at the passenger footwell back in. I did the same thing the first time I did this and got all sorts of weird lights and errors. If you think you plugged them all back in, double check that you got all the connectors seated with their locking bars in place. Each connector is keyed so it can only go back in the specific receptacle it's made for.
@@MazdaB3K i had them all plugged in but i guess they werent all set in the right way, i kept going back and forth but then just redid them all and that did the trick. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@patrickgriffins sure thing. Glad that got sorted quickly for you.
Thank you🫡
Happy I could help.
I thought you go under the hood near the passenger side firewall to change the filter.
Are you thinking of the engine air filter? That is located in front of the battery under the hood on the driver's side. This video is about the two cabin air filters located inside the cabin area of the van.
good day. subscribed to your channel. here, we are from Ukraine, it is difficult to find schemes for auto ford transit connect. interested in the location of the evaporator of the air conditioner in the second zone (2-3 passenger. row). I will be grateful for your help.
Well, I have good news and bad news. Good news is I have a part number for you, DV6Z-19D597-B. Bad news is I can't find a precise location of the evaporator core. There is a single youtube video out there of someone doing it in a 2011 TC and he had to basically gut the front interior (steering column, dash, kick panels, trim panels, center console) so that he could get access to the evaporator core which was below the dash I think. However.... during his video he does not detail the exact location of the evaporator core. If I find more information I'll update this comment.
My blower stopped working after I replaced the filter. Not happy
Let me try this again as my previous comment was only thinking about the rear cabin filter. The rear cabin air filter shouldn't cause any issues when you change it out as there's nothing mechanical or electrical around where you are working. For the front cabin air filter if you followed the video then yes, several big harness legs would have been taken loose in order to help slide the main cabin filter in and out. Each one of these legs is keyed and can only go back in one place. I would go back and make sure that all of the various harness legs are firmly seated and the cam locks are in the full locked position for each leg. If all that looks good it's possible a fuse was popped somewhere if the battery wasn't disconnected at the start. The main fuse panel in the front is located right where the filter is, so you can pull a diagram from Google and check the fuses on that panel and see if any popped. The blower fan pulls quite a bit of power so the fuse for it could also be located in the relay box in the engine bay. That's located on the driver side near the battery. Check out the harness leg connections and the fuses and see where that takes you.
Who the hell designed this car? Everything is so hard to get to. They even told me at Ford that that's not a filter under the driver's seat and that cars don't have two cabin filter. Don't even get me started on the location of the battery. You can't get it out unless you literally take things apart. And they won't change it, even in the newer models. I have no clue what they are thinking.
Once vans started getting a bit smaller from full sized conversion vans to minivans, battery locations got weird. due to the general shape of a van the battery winds up in tough spots to get to, no way of avoiding it. I have a 1993 GMC Vandura which is a full sized van. Even in it the battery is in a tough spot and is a major PITA to try and swap out. I do have a video on battery removal if you need assistance in getting the battery out of your TC.
I'm grateful it's not down in a wheel well or rammed into a corner of the cargo area or something.
@@MazdaB3K I'll check it out. It's great you made these videos. I noticed that not even Ford knew these cars well where I live bc there were virtually none of those on the road. I actually saw them more on the East Coast. Now you actually see them at times here too.
The big draw on this van is not the passenger wagon, but the cargo version. Those are in use everywhere by small businesses that need a mobile workshop or the ability to move stuff around and still be able to move in tight spaces. The TC excels at that role and if it doesn't have any plastic trim in it at all, you can easily fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood in.
That being said Ford still canceled it for US release.. we just can't have nice things over here.
Vehicles are engineered from THE OUTSIDE IN...the wonderful folks in the design department then stuff everything wherever there's empty space