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MazdaB3K
United States
Registrace 29. 05. 2021
Welcome! This channel is dedicated to the various automotive projects (and other random things) I work on out of necessity(or hobby) at my home. Anything from something as mundane as an oil change to something as complex as an engine swap are all on the table. I try to make my videos assuming that the person watching wants to get into the world of wrenching but doesn't quite know where to start. Come with me and start on the path to learning how to wrench on your own vehicles and all the joy, pain, terror and saved money it brings!
Episode 180 - Rear Expansion Valve Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Starcraft Van (Rear AC Fix)
Welcome! In this video I tackle removing and replacing the expansion valve in an attempt to fix the rear air conditioning on my 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Starcraft converted van, Engima. The expansion valve is the main device that meters freon for the evaporator installed for the rear AC, so it functioning at 100% is critical. I show how to get access to the AC, how to remove and replace the valve proper, I explain how it works and what needs to be done after reassembly. I also find out that I have a restriction in one of my ac air lines, though fixing that is another video for another day...
This video should work for most any Starcraft converted van that was given a custom AC from ProAir. Though I installed an ACDelco as the replacement valve, the original is an Eaton and can still be found on eBay.
WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own risk.
Want more? Become a member of my channel!:
czcams.com/channels/KdGDb6LnImFmLz4nLOWgrw.htmljoin
Email me! mazdab3k@gmail.com
This video should work for most any Starcraft converted van that was given a custom AC from ProAir. Though I installed an ACDelco as the replacement valve, the original is an Eaton and can still be found on eBay.
WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own risk.
Want more? Become a member of my channel!:
czcams.com/channels/KdGDb6LnImFmLz4nLOWgrw.htmljoin
Email me! mazdab3k@gmail.com
zhlédnutí: 56
Video
Five Minute Fix 59 - Fixing a Squeaky System Belt 1997 Ford Econoline E-15 Van 5.4L 2 Valve
zhlédnutí 16Před 19 hodinami
Welcome! In this video I go over how to fix a squeaky belt AFTER you have done the usual troubleshooting processes of replacing worn out pulleys, verified your belt and made sure you don't have any pulley alignment issues. In my case, I think I had deposits on some of my pulleys that were contributing to the problem and cleaning that out and putting the dabs of silicone grease on fixed the issu...
Five Minute Fix 57 - Fixing No Start or Loose Shifter 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van 5.4L
zhlédnutí 66Před 14 dny
Welcome! In this Five Minute Fix video I show how to fix the most annoying no start issue that is caused by a loose shifter. There are two torx bolts that will over time back themselves out, cause the shifter to come loose and to not fully change gears when you move the shifter stalk into a new gear. This causes the PCM to not allow you to start the van because you are not in Park or Neutral. W...
Five Minute Fix 58 - Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van 5.4L
zhlédnutí 40Před 14 dny
Welcome! In this Five Minute Fix episode I replace what I think is a faulty oil pressure sender or oil pressure switch or oil pressure sensor... it's a dummy light type sensor that will drop your oil pressure gauge on the dash down to 0 if oil pressure drops below ~8lbs of pressure. If you see your oil pressure gauge flickering, it could be this sender is faulty... or you really do have low oil...
If replacing a leaking AC valve core on a 2000's Ford, you might need to make your own tool...
zhlédnutí 21Před 14 dny
I was struggling to remove a high pressure port ac valve core and ultimately had to make a new tool to get the job done. Don't know why my standard R134A tools didn't work but ultimately I triumphed. WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own risk. Want more? Become a member of my channel!: czcams.com/channels/KdGDb6LnImFmLz...
Episode 179 - Front Brake Job! (Pads and Rotors Remove and Replace) 2010 Ford Fusion SE 3.0L
zhlédnutí 31Před 21 dnem
Welcome! In this video I remove and replace the front brake pads and rotors of my wife's 2010 Ford Fusion 3.0L sedan. Not a bad job and a great way to save some money by doing it yourself. This is the first video I've filmed with a GoPro so please bear with the weird camera angles. WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own ...
Episode 177 - Timing Chain and Oil Pump Replacement 2001 Ford F-250 Superduty 5.4L 2 Valve
zhlédnutí 94Před měsícem
Welcome! This is a long one. In this video I cover how to do a complete timing job, covering all the teardown steps, the work itself and then covering highlights of putting everything back together. I also cover how to remove and install a new high volume oil pump. Lastly, I cover what to do if the oil pump won't prime after you put everything back together. This is a very detailed video with a...
Five Minute Fix 56 - Replacing a Wheel Speed Sensor 2001 Ford F250 (C1145 C1148)
zhlédnutí 71Před měsícem
Welcome! In this Five Minute Fix I swap out a not working front wheel speed sensor in my 2001 Ford F-250 named Miss Mildew. Not a bad job to do just make sure you buy a decent replacement part. WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own risk. Want more? Become a member of my channel!: czcams.com/channels/KdGDb6LnImFmLz4nLOWg...
Episode 178 - Well Pressure Switch Replacement
zhlédnutí 87Před měsícem
Welcome! In this video I replace a faulty well pressure switch for my well that provides water to my home. I give a summary of the troubleshooting steps I followed to find the issue, my temporary repair and then how to remove and replace the switch. Not a bad job, but make sure you check that everything is electrically dead before you begin! WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes onl...
Episode 175 - AC Repair, Wheel Speed Sensor Repair 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline 5.4L 2V Van
zhlédnutí 109Před měsícem
Welcome! In this video I investigate why the ABS light turned on and the AC died at the same time in my 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline conversion van named Enigma. After investigating I figure out I have a hole in my low pressure line heading to the AC compressor and the wires for the ABS sensor have been chewed in two. Follow me as I walk you through step by step how to remove the compressor, repla...
Episode 176 - Power Brake Booster Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van 5.4L 2V
zhlédnutí 211Před měsícem
Welcome! In this video I show how to remove and replace the power brake booster, also known as a vacuum brake booster in a 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Conversion Van named Enigma. Being it's a van, the job is harder than in a truck but it's not that terrible. Main thing is to be careful when moving the master cylinder to the side as you could damage the brake lines going into it. Want to see more...
Shorts 8 - Fixing AC Vents to the Floor 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 70Před 2 měsíci
Welcome! In this not so short Short I cover how to fix the issue in Econoline vans of the ac dumping to the floor while accelerating. The cause is the failure of a vacuum reserve tank and it's pretty hard to get to for repair. So, in this video I show how to hook up a new vacuum tank and check valve and a good alternative location to put it. Want to see more videos? Visit my channel below! yout...
Episode 174 - Colder AC with Heater Core Bypass 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 202Před 2 měsíci
Welcome! In this video I go over a common mod for the F-Series trucks of this era where you install a heater core control valve to cut off coolant flow the heater core when you want Max AC. This allows for Max AC to be colder. In the F-Series trucks this mod isn't too bad. In an Econoline however... it's a bit of a bear but I lay it out step by step on how to get it done. Want to see more video...
Episode 173 - Blower Motor Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 157Před 2 měsíci
Welcome! In this video I troubleshoot and ultimately replace the blower motor in my 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Starcraft Conversion Van. Normally replacing a blower motor in this era of Ford isn't a big deal, but it's a van, which means everything is harder. This job is not an exception. Once everything is out of the way it isn't too bad, but you have to move quite a bit to make it happen. Want ...
Shorts 7 - Replacing Center Console 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 140Před 2 měsíci
Welcome! This is a really quick one on how to change out the center console in a Ford Econoline Van. This should work for anything from a late 90's to around 2020 Econoline Van. As you'll see in the video, I used this knowledge to grab a bigger and better center console for my van from a salvage yard. Want to see more videos? Visit my channel below! youtube.com/@MazdaB3K WARNING! This video is ...
Episode 172 - Starter Relay and Ignition Switch 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 528Před 2 měsíci
Episode 172 - Starter Relay and Ignition Switch 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
Five Minute Fix 55 - Brake Booster Check Valve Testing and Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 2 měsíci
Five Minute Fix 55 - Brake Booster Check Valve Testing and Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
Five Minute Fix 54 - Replacing Grill 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 89Před 3 měsíci
Five Minute Fix 54 - Replacing Grill 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
Episode 171 - Soft Brake Line Replacement 1989 Ford F-350 7.3L IDI Diesel
zhlédnutí 68Před 3 měsíci
Episode 171 - Soft Brake Line Replacement 1989 Ford F-350 7.3L IDI Diesel
Five Minute Fix 53 - Replacing MLPS or Neutral Safety Switch 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 422Před 3 měsíci
Five Minute Fix 53 - Replacing MLPS or Neutral Safety Switch 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
Episode 170 - Steering Rack Replacement Coleman KT196 Go Kart
zhlédnutí 519Před 3 měsíci
Episode 170 - Steering Rack Replacement Coleman KT196 Go Kart
Shorts 6 - Grinding out Backing Plate Contact Points 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
zhlédnutí 214Před 3 měsíci
Shorts 6 - Grinding out Backing Plate Contact Points 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
Five Minute Fix 52 - Installing a Battery 1995 MX-5 Miata NA
zhlédnutí 119Před 3 měsíci
Five Minute Fix 52 - Installing a Battery 1995 MX-5 Miata NA
Five Minute Fix 51 - Fixing a Water Leak
zhlédnutí 40Před 3 měsíci
Five Minute Fix 51 - Fixing a Water Leak
Episode 168 - Toro SG-6 Stump Grinder with Honda GX200 Idle Repair
zhlédnutí 111Před 4 měsíci
Episode 168 - Toro SG-6 Stump Grinder with Honda GX200 Idle Repair
Episode 167 - Soft Brake Line Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van 5.4L
zhlédnutí 251Před 4 měsíci
Episode 167 - Soft Brake Line Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van 5.4L
Five Minute Fix 50 - Replacing High Mount Brake Light 2001 Ford F250 5 4L
zhlédnutí 17Před 4 měsíci
Five Minute Fix 50 - Replacing High Mount Brake Light 2001 Ford F250 5 4L
Episode 165 - Dome and Map Light Repair 1989 Ford F350 7.3L IDI Diesel
zhlédnutí 43Před 4 měsíci
Episode 165 - Dome and Map Light Repair 1989 Ford F350 7.3L IDI Diesel
Five Minute Fix 47 - Replacing Hazard and Turn Signal Flashers 1989 Ford F350
zhlédnutí 213Před 4 měsíci
Five Minute Fix 47 - Replacing Hazard and Turn Signal Flashers 1989 Ford F350
Episode 163 - Glow Plug System Troubleshooting 1989 Ford F-350 7.3L IDI Diesel
zhlédnutí 932Před 4 měsíci
Episode 163 - Glow Plug System Troubleshooting 1989 Ford F-350 7.3L IDI Diesel
No helmet on and seat belt harness is literally falling off lol
How on earth do you get the cylinder lock cylinder
Do you mean how to remove the lock cylinder? If you have the key, there's a small button you press in the lock cylinder column. With the button pressed in, wiggle the cylinder to get it out. The key must be in the "Run" position I think. If you don't have the key, then you have to drill out the lock enough to get all 5? tumblers to disengage. Once that happens, the lock cylinder will pop out pretty easily.
A good detailed video. I have a 1990 ford f250 with the same setup. My brake shoes still have a lot of meat left on them, but my brake cylinder is leaking. Would I have to remove any upper springs in order to pull the wheel cylinder out ? thanks
In this design there are no upper springs that have to come off in order to get to the wheel cylinder. You need to remove the parking brake arm and the bolt that it mounts on. After that you should have access to the wheel cylinder. This design uses springs that hook onto the holding pins to in place of the upper springs you see in other drum brake designs.
How about a determination for your problem you are chasing. Did it fix it? We will never know...
Well, today is the day I sort of make your dreams come true. I did ultimately fix this issue, though I don't remember how. I made this video not much after I got this truck and some notable repairs that happened in that time frame were: Had a fuel injector fail open dumping gas all the time. Replaced all injectors While I was replacing injectors I figured I should do the coils as well. Fixed some hesitation issues the Idle Air Control Valve died. Had to replace that so the truck would not be stuck idling at 3000rpm. Somewhere in all of that the issue was resolved. Sorry I don't have a more pinpoint resolution.
Why not make it 1 long piece straight to carb and to filter?
You do know there one on the other side to ,lol
Negative. System only has one PCV valve if that is what your comment is referring to. There is an opening on the driver's valvecover but that is for fresh air intake to the crankcase. The hose that runs from that opening goes directly to the air intake, just past the filter.
I bought a CS-590 as my first saw and seem to keep running into issues with it starting or idling. I'm about to see if this is the issue.
Could be. Also could have a clogged idle circuit on the carb for the idle issue. I'm going to be cleaning the carb in my string trimmer hopefully tomorrow for that exact issue.
Checked the filter, it wasn't that. I think the L/H fuel mix may be off. So I'm gonna check that later
When I push the brake it, it stays compressed on the rotor. Any solutions or thoughts?
So you push down the brake pedal, but it does not return? That makes me think your master cylinder plunger is getting stuck in it's bore, or you have one or more multiple soft brake lines that are not allowing fluid to return to the master cylinder. Old soft lines are known to do this. The interior lining of the brake hose breaks down and then begins to function as a check valve, allowing fluid through on the heavy push of the brakes but not letting it back on the weaker return pull. I would also eyeball your ABS pump. A common issue on the Ford's of this era is the brake pedal will start to slowly drift down to the floor board and not want to stay up, with the ABS pump having an internal seal failure being the culprit.
Was their a plug of any kind to undo, or is just the 3 screws that give the dome light power?
No connector in this case. You have a screw that functions as the ground, and two screws that go into hot wires that are held in place along the ceiling of the cab.
My water in fuel light on my 88 7.3 keeps coming on every time I refuel it since I replaced my water in fuel filer, do you think the relay is bad or do you think it’s something else? The spot I refuel at has clean diesel, I’ve checked it and there’s no water in it, could I just have an old tank that needs to be replaced?
I would think if you had water in the tank the light would be coming on constantly and would stay on. The way this system works is enough water mixes with the fuel in the separator that a weak electric current can actually conduct to the sensor wire, then it triggers and you get the light in the cab. I think your relay might be fried. I don't have a pinout in front of me but I suspect you can use a multimeter to check resistance and/or voltages across pins to test if the relay is bad or not. As always, check for damaged wiring and/or bad grounds.
@@MazdaB3K fair enough, the light turns off when I turn the truck off and back on again, so I figure maybe the relay is going out, it also doesn’t have it’s original 2 piece filter it’s been converted to the wic style filter with the drain plug on the bottom
Thanks for your video...Just the way & tone of your voice gave me confidence to tackle my no start issue on my 99 F450 7.3L....Once again Thanks Yazmin Venice Beach CA ⛱️ 🏄♀️🏁⛱️🏄♀️💯
Glad I can help. When I face new complex things like this, I always remember: "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time". If you solve the first problem that comes up, then the next, then the next, eventually there are no more problems to solve and you've done what you set out to do.
I appreciate all your videos on this vehicle, I have the exact same van.
Thanks! I have more on the way. I'm having oil pressure issues and its either: 1. Clogged oil pump pickup tube 2. Blown timing chain tensioners 3. Shot crank bearings I'm going to investigate the oil pickup tube hopefully this week WITHOUT needing to drop the oil pan. I have an idea... we'll see if it works.
A condenser is location in front of the radiator in the engine bay. IT looks like a really thin radiator. In a Van with rear a/c, there are 2 EVAPORATORS. One in the front and one in the rear. The blower blows air over the evaporators. What you have in the rear of this van Ford ac or aftermarket, is an evaporator, not a condenser most likely.
You are correct. Since the creation of this video I've learned it's an evaporator/heater core unit located in the back. I don't have it published yet but I actually replaced the thermal expansion valve in the back to improve the rear AC function. That was fun.
"The thing, the thing".
There's some....thing...something on the wing!
Yknow even though im 2 years late im the new owner of a 1993 cheyenne chevrolet k1500, and i gotta replace the seat. Now i have no idea what im doing but you should have given me enough knowledge to know what to look for despite if being different models! Thanks man, you deserve wayyyy more subs than you have!
You are most welcome. A bench seat is pretty much a bench seat so yeah, you shouldn't have much of an issue with your k1500. As to the subs, I'm not a so called "adventure mechanic" which is what's in vogue these days, so I know the channel growth will be slow. But it is growing. Goal is 2000 subs this year, which I think I'll make.
Thank you very much, you have a new subscriber from Mexico. It helped me a lot with my 1989 Econoline.
Greetings from Florida! I have plenty more content coming for this truck... once I get the time to work on it. Steering box, shocks, relay system for headlights, etc.
@@MazdaB3K I'm going to check out your channel and review the other videos.. 👌👌
@@MazdaB3KDo you have Facebook to follow you?
Sort of? I do have a mazdab3k facebook, but I don't post anything to it. I generally use it for Marketplace to buy new projects. I do however use the CZcams community tab, such as it is to post updates and pictures.
Great video!
Aaaaaaay somebody watched this one, yay! Thanks!
Thank you definitely made it easy
You are most welcome.
*1994-1997, the Ranger based B-Series first model year was 1994, not 1993 as you stated.
Thanks for the correction.
How would I remove the linkage to the accelerator?
If I remember right the throttle linkage is a ball type linkage that should pop off if you pull the linkage opposite of the ball.
@@MazdaB3K Thanks! Very helpful!
I've just bought a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 and I'm getting ready to do new plugs, coils and injectors. Got me a bit nervous with the number 4 plug being backed up against the firewall. Did I hear you say a little bit of anti seize and some di-electric grease on the plugs and coils when installing? Appreciate the video. Seems like a straight forward enough task, but first time for me.
Yes. You can put a dab of anti-seize on the threads that go into the block so that the plug won't get stuck when you remove it down the road. The di-electric grease is for the spark plug boot. Di-electric grease keeps moisture away from the actual connection to ensure good spark from the coil to the plug. One thing to keep in mind is that the 2V 5.4L does have an issue with shooting out spark plugs that are not properly torqued. Make sure you torque to spec when you install... or what I always do is a smidge past "tight" and it's never done me wrong.
Wondering if it’s absolutely necessary to replace drums or can I get away with only shoes replacement (no leak symptoms) just spongy pedal and squeaky sound from rear
Spongy pedal generally indicates air in the system somewhere. Normally you get air from a leak somewhere in the system. As to reusing a drum, if the drum isn't terribly worn or ridged it can be re-used no issue. If it's ridged it need to be replaced or if the drum is still thick enough it can be turned. Most local auto part stores can turn a drum for you for a small fee.
@@MazdaB3K thank you 🙏 have not access yet the rear breaks to see what I need only purchased new shoes not familiar with the vocabulary of parts but maybe I’m confusing drums with cylinders
@@TomSkyNet Ok then, a short primer: Brake Drums: Big circular metal cover that goes over all the other brake stuff. The brake shoes press against this to stop your vehicle Brake Shoes: The part that does the stopping. Metal brackets with brake lining glued to them that are pushed outward by the piston arms of a wheel cylinder Wheel Cylinder: The hydraulic part of drum brakes. The small cylinder generally in the middle top of a drum brake setup with two piston arms that "push" the brake shoes outward so they press against the brake drum and create friction, slowing down your vehicle. When you press the brake pedal, brake fluid is pushed into the wheel cylinder via a brake line and then pushes the piston arms out to push on the brake shoes.
@@MazdaB3K thank you ! Yes now small correction to my question is it absolutely necessary to replace wheel hydraulic cylinder while changing shoes and how to tell if they need replacement 👏🙏
@@TomSkyNet Wheel cylinders will generally start to leak from their rubber seals when they fail. So if you see evidence of brake fluid inside of the drum, leaking out of the drum or puddling on your tire generally you have a bad wheel cylinder. That being said, they generally aren't that expensive so changing them with a known good can be cheap insurance. In general, if wheel cylinders have been sitting for a very long time they tend to fail as well.
Liked and subscribed. Well done brother. Ill be doinh this this weekend. I replaced the iac but my idle still pulses and damn near dies out. Been putting off the TPS but i know thats what needs to be done. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the sub! TPS isn't horrible on this truck. Just make sure you get the idle position on the sensor right.
@@MazdaB3K thanks bro
Genius!! Great series! Gutsy!! Thanks tons.
You are most welcome. This van fights me tooth and nail... the risk you take when you buy a vehicle sight unseen.
I swear those clamps are designed to be just bigger than most plier jaws!
They can be quite irritating. Often it's not the clamp itself, it the access to the clamp. The angle of the dangle you might say.
Thanks, 😊 I just changed my battery after watching your video
Great! Glad that I could help.
Interested to know.... Did you warm the engine up to assist in the removal of the plugs?
Nope. Just took them out cold.
How did you check the harness. Thanks for the video
I took my multimeter and touched one probe the where the harness connects to a glowplug. I took the other probe to the lug on the glow plug relay where the harness is connected to the relay. I set the meter to Ohms (horseshoe thing) and checked for resistance. I wanted .2 Ohms or less for each wire, and that's what I found.
It is the puller I am missing, thank you random CZcams guy.
You are most welcome, random CZcams person. Make sure you get either a Ford style puller or Univesal puller as the GM and I think Dodge have a different setup you have to use. Also has to be used with the pump already installed otherwise you wind up with a bolt that you can't get reinstalled. Ask me how I know.
Thank you. Very detailed.
Happy to help.
that was good help thanks ill do it too to keep the system clean . thanks alot
Mazda made is nice and easy to do, so why not?
I have a Husqvarna 128LD that needs fuel lines replaced and I also own a Mazda B3k!
Nice! I traded the truck for a 1964 F100, but I have a chance to get my B series back... with upgrades. I'll know more in September.
My issue is when I turn on the rear burner the front one also comes on by itself, any ideas?
It sounds like command to turn on is being sent to both burners. I would consult the wire diagram that should be taped to the back of the oven to see what circuit controls that and go from there. Offhand I can't be of much more assistance.
I just replaced the cam shaft sensors and it made a big difference
If those needed replacing that would mean the PCM was losing "time" for the engine which would make it run quite poorly.
Stupid ford
This is the only video on CZcams that shows you how to remove the door panels on the Transit Connect.
Woah. Really? I would have thought someone else would have done it, maybe a company or something.
Where can I purchase the rear AC fan motor for the 1997 van with that custom kit. I have one just like it
I haven't made any purchases yet, but this website seems to carry Pro Air parts. Pro Air itself went out of business a few years ago, so get the parts while you can. www.comfortairgr.com/
Ford could've saved themselves a TON of hassle & bought the MAZDA 6 speed auto transaxle used in the CX-5 ...they have none of these issues...just stupid
Possibly. I know that Ford and Mazda had a deep partnership that had ended not that long before this vehicle was made, not sure if either party still had the appetite to do technology agreements.
Thank you🫡
Happy I could help.
I have the same problem on my 93 ford f350 7.3 idi , I replaced glow plugs, module/controller, glow plug harness and still clicks Did you find the issue why it clicks ?
The glow plug controller is extremely sensitive to resistance as that is how it determines if the engine is hot or cold and how much glow to run. The only thing I could think of was that the anti-seize that I put on the glow plugs altered the resistance enough that it caused the controller to spaz out. As seen in the video, I checked everything per Ford specification and found it to be within spec. This is why ultimately I modified the glow controller to be a manual, momentary switch activation. That has been working fine since I converted it.
97 f250 HD also uses this layout while having the sterling full floating axle
Good to know. Thanks for the comment.
@@MazdaB3K ye, should also note the sterling axle uses the 3" pad drums but has the same 8 lug pattern, chevy also uses the same parts
I did know about the pad difference. Initially my brother bought the bigger pads for this job on accident and had to return everything.
@@MazdaB3K know that feeling, the HD has a bunch of unique traits vs other f250 trucks making buying parts a pain till you know exactly what the thing you need is called, ended up buying a door lever at a scrap yard after 2 days of searching because it's not sold new, the easy fix would be to just swap the door with any regular f250 that had control bars instead of cables, then i have some weird cab stuff going on as well, power rear window but no switch on the dash for it, almost looks like someone wrecked it and swapped stuff around to make it work, lol
I'm sorry, but the "five minute fix" requires you to take the engine out? Come on.
It is a five minute fix if the engine is already out. Otherwise, yes definitely not a five minute job.
Super happy for your video, didn't see anyone else do it step by step like you did
Wow, I never thought I would get a comment for this video! Thanks for watching! My son got many years(and miles) out of this toy. Good quality but don't buy the extended batteries... kids can go pretty far on them if you are not paying attention...
@@MazdaB3K I love how you went through every step and gave time for me to look at my own project before you moved on.
I try to make my videos in a way that a complete beginner to wrenching and repair can follow and succeed. I sometimes get comments that I talk way too much, which I do. But I figure that if you need to fast forward to get to the part you need, you can.
I found this video to be very informative. Somewhat long, but it was a great refresher for this job. The comment you made about internal combustion engines being giant air pumps was interesting, too. Thank you for your efforts and sharing your process!
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, thinking about ICE engines as air pumps really changes how you think of them. The thing I forgot in this video that is also relevant is gas engines make vacuum because they have a throttle plate. When you are at WOT, the throttle plate is mostly open, hence little vacuum. When at idle, throttle plate is almost closed, so max vacuum. The reason why diesels have to have vacuum pumps is they don't have a throttle plate.
good vid i struggled with those springs and hooks too and the parking brake was not working so will be adjusting that next can see the drums are not tight enuff yet so more adjustment needed those hooks for the springs fell off too had to put a bit more of a hook on them the ones i had were from the states too so hope they will stay in place now thanks for good vid from across the pond in wales my van is a 1996 e 350 but the set up is exat the same on it thanks
Glad I could help a friend across the pond. I found the F-350 brakes to be easier than working on the 1997 E-150 I have or the 1993 F-250 I had to work on in the past.
@@MazdaB3K not a lot of info over here all though ive had a good few us cars and not many of them about either as gas here would be around 10 dollers a gallon or more so a lot of fiat etc desiel vans fiat same as promaster well in looks ive been doing this one for a bit its got the 5.8 in it and only 34 k miles backed by the service history its been converted to a class b by bigfoot app rare only 52 ever done still an e 350 just a rare conversion a few probs fuel pump brake lines etc fuel pump had to go through the floor as no other choice as a water tank along side it so cant get to hanger bolts as the water tank has been coverd in fiberglass etc transmission flued is on the list so more fun
Hello....I have a 2010ford fusion sport v6 3.5 issue with overheats. Fans won 't run after a while, high on temperature. Any help??
I have another video that deals with a part I call a fan controller than can go bad and will cause the fans not to kick on. In the short term run your AC. That should cause the fans to run for the AC which should help with cooling until you solve this issue. On my channel page, click the 2010 Ford Fusion playlist and it should have the fan controller video in it.
Hey Dude, Thank you very much for this video! You gave a thorough video. I appreciate it. I was able to skip a couple of steps but you saved me so much time breaking down everything from the battery choice to the replacement. I also checked out your other video on filter replacement. Both combined where very helpful. I rarely comment or like a video but had to write something for this one because it saved me so much time.
I try to help where I can. I figure that someone else out there has need of doing this, particularly with this van. Not much maintenance information out there about it.
Anyone found a solution for this? Chasing this p1132. My short and long fuel trims are showing great below( or above) -5 so vehicle is not dumping fuel. The o2 sensors state show lean, but sensor 1 shows pegged at 0.940+…
If you have an o2 sensor that is not "flipping" rapidly it might be bad. As laid out in this video MAF is always a good place to check, as well as checking fuel pressure at the rail to see if maybe you are lean from a fueling perspective. You can also check to see if the fuel pressure regulator is going bad on you, that would cause potential lean/rich issues as well.
@@MazdaB3Ksince I had been chasing a lean code in Bank 2 before, I had already replaced the MAF sensor, the fuel pressure regulator (getting good pressure), fuel pump and a plethora of things. Turned out the issue was a peaky vacuum leak, which took care of the lean condition in bank 2. Fast forward three or so months later and I started getting a rich code in bank 1 with LFTF for rhat bank at -27 and -14. I took care of a few more thibgs, including replacing the orings on the throttle shaft for a smoke test leak on the sides of the throttle body and the short snd long trims are excellent for a 20+ vehicle, now switching +/- 7% and the ltft at -1.56 for that bank. Two days ago I started getting the P1132 and noticing the upstream sensor in bank one pegged at 0.974 so I switched the aftermarket with a Bosch OE, and it is still the same, although today’s test drive I noticed it lazily switching between 0.94 and 0.897 which is not much. I also noticed a strong smell of fuel/fumes around the front wheel well of the passenger side (bank 1) so I plugged my smoke machine to the exhaust pipe to see if the exhaust manifold or anywhere else before the cat is leaking, but nothing. I’m really losing it!!!
It sounds like you've already dug into this pretty deep. One part that doesn't make sense to me is that a brand new OE bosch sensor is not flipping as it ought. That makes me think some sort of electrical issue. Have you checked the condition of the major engine grounds around the engine bay and under the vehicle?
@@MazdaB3Knot really, although I’ve been reading a bit today and seems possible for electrical to be the culprit. Yet I am stomped because if I understood correctly, all 4 sensors should ground to a single point in the pcm, so I’d think that the bank 2 sensors would also be having an issue, what do you think? My bank 2 sensors are switching correctly with upstream switching between 0.1 and 0.8 and downstream staying below 0.2, which makes sense on the lean state. I had my obd scanner app (xtool with the am30 plugin) record my last trip which shows a plethora of information which I am just starting to learn. I’ve kept my eyes on the o2 voltages, the fuel trims and the throttle position sensor since I broke the original one servicing the throttle body and did not calibrate the new one correctly so was getting an error, thankfully got that figured out today. By the way, even though the p1132 is showing as “stored code” and also I think p1136 (new one showing an issue with bank 1 sensor 2), and the former having set a freeze frame, neither appeared to have triggered the cel (yet) and don’t come up when I run the dtc diagnostic. I am really stumped…I was thinking of switching bank 1 sensor to bank 2 and see if it follows there, although I find it hard to believe that two sensors would be showing the same 0.97 voltage, although a possibility. I’m also wondering if the Bosch sensor is in the correct position; the part for this vehicle gives me two different part numbers, 15717 and 15719 (the one i got) and both are listed as upstream sensors in the autozone site, where I got them, and have not found anywhere else with info to compare as even pricing is the same. I’ve read some places that upstream/downstream are not interchangeable, but then again every motorcraft o2 sensor i have found is listed as downstream and when I checked a Ford part’s website it just lists one part number suitable for all positions. Sorry for the long reply, I just haven’t had found anyone to troubleshoot with and figured talking out loud (or typing) might provide that breakthrough I’m looking for or a separate brain to pick. 🤷🏻
The multi part number thing is normally where you have identical sensors but the wire pigtails are different lengths. I had to replace the downstream on my 1997 E-150 and ran into the same issue. As to grounds, the PCM should have a ground and there will be grounds placed all around the engine for the various sensor and circuit paths. One way you can check the pathing of a particular area is to check the resistance from that point to the negative side of the battery. You are looking for ~2 ohms or less. Anything higher than that generally means a loose ground, missing ground or corroded ground. I'm not familiar with the scan tool you are using, but if you are working with a Ford product you can use Forscan. It's a free software you can download to your phone or laptop that as long as you have a compatible wireless OBD2 dongle (can be bluetooth or wireless). Forscan gives you the powers of a dealer level scan tool, allowing you to see live data that most other scanners simply won't provide.
Thanks for the video!
This video is doing surprisingly well. Who knew that the Internet wanted to see me blow into a check valve? I have also released the companion video to this where I replace the power brake booster.