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Do you mean how to remove the lock cylinder? If you have the key, there's a small button you press in the lock cylinder column. With the button pressed in, wiggle the cylinder to get it out. The key must be in the "Run" position I think. If you don't have the key, then you have to drill out the lock enough to get all 5? tumblers to disengage. Once that happens, the lock cylinder will pop out pretty easily.

In this design there are no upper springs that have to come off in order to get to the wheel cylinder. You need to remove the parking brake arm and the bolt that it mounts on. After that you should have access to the wheel cylinder. This design uses springs that hook onto the holding pins to in place of the upper springs you see in other drum brake designs.

Well, today is the day I sort of make your dreams come true. I did ultimately fix this issue, though I don't remember how. I made this video not much after I got this truck and some notable repairs that happened in that time frame were: Had a fuel injector fail open dumping gas all the time. Replaced all injectors While I was replacing injectors I figured I should do the coils as well. Fixed some hesitation issues the Idle Air Control Valve died. Had to replace that so the truck would not be stuck idling at 3000rpm. Somewhere in all of that the issue was resolved. Sorry I don't have a more pinpoint resolution.

Negative. System only has one PCV valve if that is what your comment is referring to. There is an opening on the driver's valvecover but that is for fresh air intake to the crankcase. The hose that runs from that opening goes directly to the air intake, just past the filter.

Could be. Also could have a clogged idle circuit on the carb for the idle issue. I'm going to be cleaning the carb in my string trimmer hopefully tomorrow for that exact issue.

Checked the filter, it wasn't that. I think the L/H fuel mix may be off. So I'm gonna check that later

So you push down the brake pedal, but it does not return? That makes me think your master cylinder plunger is getting stuck in it's bore, or you have one or more multiple soft brake lines that are not allowing fluid to return to the master cylinder. Old soft lines are known to do this. The interior lining of the brake hose breaks down and then begins to function as a check valve, allowing fluid through on the heavy push of the brakes but not letting it back on the weaker return pull. I would also eyeball your ABS pump. A common issue on the Ford's of this era is the brake pedal will start to slowly drift down to the floor board and not want to stay up, with the ABS pump having an internal seal failure being the culprit.

No connector in this case. You have a screw that functions as the ground, and two screws that go into hot wires that are held in place along the ceiling of the cab.

I would think if you had water in the tank the light would be coming on constantly and would stay on. The way this system works is enough water mixes with the fuel in the separator that a weak electric current can actually conduct to the sensor wire, then it triggers and you get the light in the cab. I think your relay might be fried. I don't have a pinout in front of me but I suspect you can use a multimeter to check resistance and/or voltages across pins to test if the relay is bad or not. As always, check for damaged wiring and/or bad grounds.

@@MazdaB3K fair enough, the light turns off when I turn the truck off and back on again, so I figure maybe the relay is going out, it also doesn’t have it’s original 2 piece filter it’s been converted to the wic style filter with the drain plug on the bottom

Glad I can help. When I face new complex things like this, I always remember: "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time". If you solve the first problem that comes up, then the next, then the next, eventually there are no more problems to solve and you've done what you set out to do.

Thanks! I have more on the way. I'm having oil pressure issues and its either: 1. Clogged oil pump pickup tube 2. Blown timing chain tensioners 3. Shot crank bearings I'm going to investigate the oil pickup tube hopefully this week WITHOUT needing to drop the oil pan. I have an idea... we'll see if it works.

You are correct. Since the creation of this video I've learned it's an evaporator/heater core unit located in the back. I don't have it published yet but I actually replaced the thermal expansion valve in the back to improve the rear AC function. That was fun.

There's some....thing...something on the wing!

You are most welcome. A bench seat is pretty much a bench seat so yeah, you shouldn't have much of an issue with your k1500. As to the subs, I'm not a so called "adventure mechanic" which is what's in vogue these days, so I know the channel growth will be slow. But it is growing. Goal is 2000 subs this year, which I think I'll make.

Greetings from Florida! I have plenty more content coming for this truck... once I get the time to work on it. Steering box, shocks, relay system for headlights, etc.

@@MazdaB3K I'm going to check out your channel and review the other videos.. 👌👌

​@@MazdaB3KDo you have Facebook to follow you?

Sort of? I do have a mazdab3k facebook, but I don't post anything to it. I generally use it for Marketplace to buy new projects. I do however use the CZcams community tab, such as it is to post updates and pictures.

Aaaaaaay somebody watched this one, yay! Thanks!

You are most welcome.

Thanks for the correction.

If I remember right the throttle linkage is a ball type linkage that should pop off if you pull the linkage opposite of the ball.

@@MazdaB3K Thanks! Very helpful!

Yes. You can put a dab of anti-seize on the threads that go into the block so that the plug won't get stuck when you remove it down the road. The di-electric grease is for the spark plug boot. Di-electric grease keeps moisture away from the actual connection to ensure good spark from the coil to the plug. One thing to keep in mind is that the 2V 5.4L does have an issue with shooting out spark plugs that are not properly torqued. Make sure you torque to spec when you install... or what I always do is a smidge past "tight" and it's never done me wrong.

Spongy pedal generally indicates air in the system somewhere. Normally you get air from a leak somewhere in the system. As to reusing a drum, if the drum isn't terribly worn or ridged it can be re-used no issue. If it's ridged it need to be replaced or if the drum is still thick enough it can be turned. Most local auto part stores can turn a drum for you for a small fee.

@@MazdaB3K thank you 🙏 have not access yet the rear breaks to see what I need only purchased new shoes not familiar with the vocabulary of parts but maybe I’m confusing drums with cylinders

@@TomSkyNet Ok then, a short primer: Brake Drums: Big circular metal cover that goes over all the other brake stuff. The brake shoes press against this to stop your vehicle Brake Shoes: The part that does the stopping. Metal brackets with brake lining glued to them that are pushed outward by the piston arms of a wheel cylinder Wheel Cylinder: The hydraulic part of drum brakes. The small cylinder generally in the middle top of a drum brake setup with two piston arms that "push" the brake shoes outward so they press against the brake drum and create friction, slowing down your vehicle. When you press the brake pedal, brake fluid is pushed into the wheel cylinder via a brake line and then pushes the piston arms out to push on the brake shoes.

@@MazdaB3K thank you ! Yes now small correction to my question is it absolutely necessary to replace wheel hydraulic cylinder while changing shoes and how to tell if they need replacement 👏🙏

@@TomSkyNet Wheel cylinders will generally start to leak from their rubber seals when they fail. So if you see evidence of brake fluid inside of the drum, leaking out of the drum or puddling on your tire generally you have a bad wheel cylinder. That being said, they generally aren't that expensive so changing them with a known good can be cheap insurance. In general, if wheel cylinders have been sitting for a very long time they tend to fail as well.

Thanks for the sub! TPS isn't horrible on this truck. Just make sure you get the idle position on the sensor right.

@@MazdaB3K thanks bro

You are most welcome. This van fights me tooth and nail... the risk you take when you buy a vehicle sight unseen.

They can be quite irritating. Often it's not the clamp itself, it the access to the clamp. The angle of the dangle you might say.

Great! Glad that I could help.

Nope. Just took them out cold.

I took my multimeter and touched one probe the where the harness connects to a glowplug. I took the other probe to the lug on the glow plug relay where the harness is connected to the relay. I set the meter to Ohms (horseshoe thing) and checked for resistance. I wanted .2 Ohms or less for each wire, and that's what I found.

You are most welcome, random CZcams person. Make sure you get either a Ford style puller or Univesal puller as the GM and I think Dodge have a different setup you have to use. Also has to be used with the pump already installed otherwise you wind up with a bolt that you can't get reinstalled. Ask me how I know.

Happy to help.

Mazda made is nice and easy to do, so why not?

Nice! I traded the truck for a 1964 F100, but I have a chance to get my B series back... with upgrades. I'll know more in September.

It sounds like command to turn on is being sent to both burners. I would consult the wire diagram that should be taped to the back of the oven to see what circuit controls that and go from there. Offhand I can't be of much more assistance.

If those needed replacing that would mean the PCM was losing "time" for the engine which would make it run quite poorly.

Woah. Really? I would have thought someone else would have done it, maybe a company or something.

I haven't made any purchases yet, but this website seems to carry Pro Air parts. Pro Air itself went out of business a few years ago, so get the parts while you can. www.comfortairgr.com/

Possibly. I know that Ford and Mazda had a deep partnership that had ended not that long before this vehicle was made, not sure if either party still had the appetite to do technology agreements.

Happy I could help.

The glow plug controller is extremely sensitive to resistance as that is how it determines if the engine is hot or cold and how much glow to run. The only thing I could think of was that the anti-seize that I put on the glow plugs altered the resistance enough that it caused the controller to spaz out. As seen in the video, I checked everything per Ford specification and found it to be within spec. This is why ultimately I modified the glow controller to be a manual, momentary switch activation. That has been working fine since I converted it.

Good to know. Thanks for the comment.

@@MazdaB3K ye, should also note the sterling axle uses the 3" pad drums but has the same 8 lug pattern, chevy also uses the same parts

I did know about the pad difference. Initially my brother bought the bigger pads for this job on accident and had to return everything.

@@MazdaB3K know that feeling, the HD has a bunch of unique traits vs other f250 trucks making buying parts a pain till you know exactly what the thing you need is called, ended up buying a door lever at a scrap yard after 2 days of searching because it's not sold new, the easy fix would be to just swap the door with any regular f250 that had control bars instead of cables, then i have some weird cab stuff going on as well, power rear window but no switch on the dash for it, almost looks like someone wrecked it and swapped stuff around to make it work, lol

It is a five minute fix if the engine is already out. Otherwise, yes definitely not a five minute job.

Wow, I never thought I would get a comment for this video! Thanks for watching! My son got many years(and miles) out of this toy. Good quality but don't buy the extended batteries... kids can go pretty far on them if you are not paying attention...

@@MazdaB3K I love how you went through every step and gave time for me to look at my own project before you moved on.

I try to make my videos in a way that a complete beginner to wrenching and repair can follow and succeed. I sometimes get comments that I talk way too much, which I do. But I figure that if you need to fast forward to get to the part you need, you can.

Thanks for the comment. Yeah, thinking about ICE engines as air pumps really changes how you think of them. The thing I forgot in this video that is also relevant is gas engines make vacuum because they have a throttle plate. When you are at WOT, the throttle plate is mostly open, hence little vacuum. When at idle, throttle plate is almost closed, so max vacuum. The reason why diesels have to have vacuum pumps is they don't have a throttle plate.

Glad I could help a friend across the pond. I found the F-350 brakes to be easier than working on the 1997 E-150 I have or the 1993 F-250 I had to work on in the past.

@@MazdaB3K not a lot of info over here all though ive had a good few us cars and not many of them about either as gas here would be around 10 dollers a gallon or more so a lot of fiat etc desiel vans fiat same as promaster well in looks ive been doing this one for a bit its got the 5.8 in it and only 34 k miles backed by the service history its been converted to a class b by bigfoot app rare only 52 ever done still an e 350 just a rare conversion a few probs fuel pump brake lines etc fuel pump had to go through the floor as no other choice as a water tank along side it so cant get to hanger bolts as the water tank has been coverd in fiberglass etc transmission flued is on the list so more fun

I have another video that deals with a part I call a fan controller than can go bad and will cause the fans not to kick on. In the short term run your AC. That should cause the fans to run for the AC which should help with cooling until you solve this issue. On my channel page, click the 2010 Ford Fusion playlist and it should have the fan controller video in it.

I try to help where I can. I figure that someone else out there has need of doing this, particularly with this van. Not much maintenance information out there about it.

If you have an o2 sensor that is not "flipping" rapidly it might be bad. As laid out in this video MAF is always a good place to check, as well as checking fuel pressure at the rail to see if maybe you are lean from a fueling perspective. You can also check to see if the fuel pressure regulator is going bad on you, that would cause potential lean/rich issues as well.

@@MazdaB3Ksince I had been chasing a lean code in Bank 2 before, I had already replaced the MAF sensor, the fuel pressure regulator (getting good pressure), fuel pump and a plethora of things. Turned out the issue was a peaky vacuum leak, which took care of the lean condition in bank 2. Fast forward three or so months later and I started getting a rich code in bank 1 with LFTF for rhat bank at -27 and -14. I took care of a few more thibgs, including replacing the orings on the throttle shaft for a smoke test leak on the sides of the throttle body and the short snd long trims are excellent for a 20+ vehicle, now switching +/- 7% and the ltft at -1.56 for that bank. Two days ago I started getting the P1132 and noticing the upstream sensor in bank one pegged at 0.974 so I switched the aftermarket with a Bosch OE, and it is still the same, although today’s test drive I noticed it lazily switching between 0.94 and 0.897 which is not much. I also noticed a strong smell of fuel/fumes around the front wheel well of the passenger side (bank 1) so I plugged my smoke machine to the exhaust pipe to see if the exhaust manifold or anywhere else before the cat is leaking, but nothing. I’m really losing it!!!

It sounds like you've already dug into this pretty deep. One part that doesn't make sense to me is that a brand new OE bosch sensor is not flipping as it ought. That makes me think some sort of electrical issue. Have you checked the condition of the major engine grounds around the engine bay and under the vehicle?

@@MazdaB3Knot really, although I’ve been reading a bit today and seems possible for electrical to be the culprit. Yet I am stomped because if I understood correctly, all 4 sensors should ground to a single point in the pcm, so I’d think that the bank 2 sensors would also be having an issue, what do you think? My bank 2 sensors are switching correctly with upstream switching between 0.1 and 0.8 and downstream staying below 0.2, which makes sense on the lean state. I had my obd scanner app (xtool with the am30 plugin) record my last trip which shows a plethora of information which I am just starting to learn. I’ve kept my eyes on the o2 voltages, the fuel trims and the throttle position sensor since I broke the original one servicing the throttle body and did not calibrate the new one correctly so was getting an error, thankfully got that figured out today. By the way, even though the p1132 is showing as “stored code” and also I think p1136 (new one showing an issue with bank 1 sensor 2), and the former having set a freeze frame, neither appeared to have triggered the cel (yet) and don’t come up when I run the dtc diagnostic. I am really stumped…I was thinking of switching bank 1 sensor to bank 2 and see if it follows there, although I find it hard to believe that two sensors would be showing the same 0.97 voltage, although a possibility. I’m also wondering if the Bosch sensor is in the correct position; the part for this vehicle gives me two different part numbers, 15717 and 15719 (the one i got) and both are listed as upstream sensors in the autozone site, where I got them, and have not found anywhere else with info to compare as even pricing is the same. I’ve read some places that upstream/downstream are not interchangeable, but then again every motorcraft o2 sensor i have found is listed as downstream and when I checked a Ford part’s website it just lists one part number suitable for all positions. Sorry for the long reply, I just haven’t had found anyone to troubleshoot with and figured talking out loud (or typing) might provide that breakthrough I’m looking for or a separate brain to pick. 🤷🏻

The multi part number thing is normally where you have identical sensors but the wire pigtails are different lengths. I had to replace the downstream on my 1997 E-150 and ran into the same issue. As to grounds, the PCM should have a ground and there will be grounds placed all around the engine for the various sensor and circuit paths. One way you can check the pathing of a particular area is to check the resistance from that point to the negative side of the battery. You are looking for ~2 ohms or less. Anything higher than that generally means a loose ground, missing ground or corroded ground. I'm not familiar with the scan tool you are using, but if you are working with a Ford product you can use Forscan. It's a free software you can download to your phone or laptop that as long as you have a compatible wireless OBD2 dongle (can be bluetooth or wireless). Forscan gives you the powers of a dealer level scan tool, allowing you to see live data that most other scanners simply won't provide.

This video is doing surprisingly well. Who knew that the Internet wanted to see me blow into a check valve? I have also released the companion video to this where I replace the power brake booster.