2016 Ford Escape se Battery Wire Corrosion Fix
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- In this video I fix a battery wire corrosion problem in my daughters 2016 Ford Escape se. The positive wire from the battery to the power distribution block became corroded and I was able to fix it for a fraction of what the dealership wanted to charge.
Just want to put this out there for Ford Escape and other ford owners that use this same type of battery distribution panel. There are 6-8 fuses in this panel. These fuses do fail over time. They are not fully open but they become intermittent and cause issues like no crank / no start and other odd electrical issues. The right most fuse is a 50A and is usually the first to fail.
Thank you for the added information, I’m sure it will help many people out including myself if things start going out on my daughter’s ford
You are the man, I was doubting to just sandpaper the corrosion.
Thank you, hope you found this video helpful
So was this the problem/solution for the escapes of these years where they dont start/turn off while driving?
Im having a similiar problem then, when i jiggle the canle it starts right up, also jiggling the cable causes the r8 relay to trip.
Yes this fixed the problem but also check the negative battery cable, make sure it has a good corrosion free connection also to the chassis
Take a multimeter and check the megafuses on the front of the battery next to the positive terminal revealed at 2:00 in the video. They are very prone to popping when not looking broken, and when you wiggle the plate they will finally make contact and the car will start. You should get ~12Volts at the top and bottom of each with the key in the "run" position. If one has less or none depending on how you wiggle it then its broken.
Another issue that causes no start is the 50A right most fuse in this same electrical panel. the leads of the fuse are bolted down and vibration causes the fuse to become intermittent.
Yep that ended up being the problem, bought a new 50A fuse off Amazon and its been running perfect ever since then.
Excellent video bro awesome 👍
I have a 2019 escape titanium with the 2.0 engine and recently the car stalled when stop start was activated and I had to put it in park and restart it. Since turning that off I have had no issues with stalling but I’m having some weird electrical things happening. The battery tests good with a multimeter when off and running. However I started monitoring live data and have observed control module voltage sometimes bouncing around and even spiking momentarily to 50V and dipping to 0.007V. It does not always do this. I have no warning lights or codes. Also, I have seen coolant temperature spike to 150C momentarily but it’s not really getting that hot. I have also had the stereo restart and dash lights go off for a bit and come back on and the charge port turn off. A few weeks prior I had the car intermittently buck when accelerating. Since I disconnected the battery overnight and reconnected it I have not had that buck happen. From research I think my issue might be with one of these high current fuses. I think when I removed the battery cover I probably moved that plate a bit that corrected some of the issues like the bucking but I still have these other gremlins because there’s a fuse issue. I’m going to use a multimeter to test input and output voltage on each fuse. Do you think this would be a good starting point and that a faulty fuse could be the issue? The other thing it could be is a bad engine ground but seeing the amount of issues with these fuses is making me think this is the issue. Usually it’s the far right red one that’s causing start issues but I think any of them could become a problem with this design.
It’s hard to say where to start. Loose wire, bad wire, grounding out wire but it sounds like you have good grasp of what to look for. just start a check list of things to cross off till you find the issue.
@@diawithraul thanks for your reply! I think it’s that 50A fuse and I’m hoping I’m right. I saw the electrical schematic showing it also powers the body control module. And the body control module communicates with other modules including the PCM. So if there’s a voltage drop happening with that then it could be creating the issues I’m seeing. My fuse may be affected in such a way that it’s not causing me starting issues but these other problems instead. I’m going to buy the fuse and replace it regardless because there are many people who had their car die while driving it because of that fuse and it was reported that the new fuse design from Ford is different meaning Ford is aware of the problem. Since I will have it apart I might as well replace it even if it tests ok.
Hi, great video. This corroded cable what was causing on the car? My 2015 escape sometimes doesn’t want to turn on
Yes. I troubleshot it myself then took it to the dealership after they tried fixing the problem once and didn’t work, they wanted to charge me $200. I did it for around $50
Have you had any issues with it since? That little red wire is the positive wire for the battery’s current sensor (on the negative terminal) so it’s supposed to be connected as close to the post as possible, but I really can’t see an issue with it as long as the main cable and terminations are in good condition…
Nope, no issues since this video. Thank you for that information and for watching
The cover on the side of the battery tray just pops right off?
I believe there is a tab at the top but you have to release the wire harness tabs also before popping it off
Will this cause the car to stop running also? I had the issue posted below where I had to wiggle wire on post connection to get it to start.. but it would stay running.. now it shuts off while driving it's been very dangerous stranding me on the road last 2 days. Hopefully you can respond, I had the car towed and no one can figure out why it's doing this.
Absolutely, wires get corroded all the time causing electrical issues and without a good ground nothing will work.
My issue: ONLY windshield wiper motors stopped working -- and unpredictably, intermittent rear wiper wipers work in "off" position, but work well otherwise -- after I replaced leaking battery.
(106k mi on 2016 Escape SE, 1.6L turbo engine replaced at 25K miles.)
Mechanic friend says possibly heat or other damage to negative cable area that plugs into a plastic connector that leads (he says) to control wiper motors and other parts.
Going to remove, inspect it.
Your take? Should I inspect those wires to/from positive cable you replaced in the video?
I will check the negative connection to frame too.