I've bought tools for my basement- garage - cottage but I'm always needing something something out of reach Please tell me I don't need to buy three of everything Milwaukee.
I have five or ten 10 mm 1/4 sockets. Not sure how many, but I can always find one. I set 10mm socket bait traps (big magnets) around the corners of the garage next to the rodent traps. Every now and then I catch a 10mm.
I'm a field service heavy mechanic. I absolutely love my Milwaukee 3/8" and 1/2" guns and just ordered a Milwaukee 1" gun. I have PTO on board air but my Milwaukee stuff has taken the lead usage and hasn't let me down. My only regretted purchase was a new Cornwell Pro Series box because a month later I was promoted to field service
Bro switching the air line to a bigger adapter made a world of difference in the compressor tools. I was so disappointed in my impact gun and was about to get rid of it. Switched the adapters to a bigger size and damn. Glad I didn’t get rid of it
The snap on dude rolled up one day with his normal truck and a second smaller truck, i asked him and he was like “oh everything on that truck is 50% off”, so i busted my ass over there, looked around at some sockets and such then BAM right there in the back, brand new pt850, price tag of $300! Damn right i bought it, and i love it
Riv-nut installer works great in a factory setting in my experience. Can’t even imagine using it in an automotive shop. Very limited access. On the other hand, for $70 and it comes with all those packs of hardware, one could probably at least make his $70 back by using it here and there. But then there’s the issue of it taking up space in the tool box. If you had your own shop with a tool storage it would be shelf-worthy for occasional use. My two cents.
I can only comment on my circumstances. As a workshop manager of Australian mine engineering workshop, we work under extreme circumstances, both surface and underground. Our purchasing policy for suppliers is extensive, very complexed and detailed. In simplifying, all providers must supply 'proof of statement'. This involves submitting proposed supply equipment to our R&D division for extensive testing to failure. From here, the manufactor must prove the equipment failed within their submitted statement tolerances. Failure leads to loss of supply, future loss of availability of tender and possible supply suspension for 3 years. Pass and the supply contract is yours, allowing us access to the very best equipment available. Extreme ? Yes. Regarding air vs. battery. We cannot, and do not use battery powered equipment simply because extensive testing has revealed servere manufacturing defects and cannot be successfully certified intrinsically safe. Great vid, new sub. Greetings from Woomera, South Australia 👍👍🇦🇺
Don’t know what mine that would be at? I’m an aussie mine mechanic and we are supplied shit mate. I’ve actually been around a fair bit and actually haven’t heard this one before.
The complexity of the electric tool adds risk to failure without a doubt. But if your life and a $1billion process is not dependent on the tool working, then electrics are the way to go. I love air tools; their simplicity, power, and longevity. I have a full collection of air, but I still grab the electric ones to do the job. If i had to jump out a plane and my life was dependent on a tool working to fix the parachute, I'd grab the air (and check the tank first!).
I owned this impact in this video. Ended up trading it right back in for the 1/2 monster lithium snap on battery impact. I also went to cornwell and Ingersoll rand air tools. I don’t think anyone should use any thing other than ingersoll air tools. Cornwell impacts are actually manufactured by ingersoll which is awesome.
@@ShamelessTR even 3 years down the line? Air cat is good but they just don't have the long life that ir has. I got a buddy I've worked with for 4 years and he's on his 3rd air cat
I was a heavy duty Cat Field Service Tech for over 25 years, total of 50 years as a Diesel Tech overall. I could outfit a whole shop with stuff I “had” to have! I know a lot of us could, lol
For the butane torch if you want a bigger/hotter flame just unscrew the tip base at the plastic collar and run it bare. It has the same flame as compact “gun” style. I have the same from Wurth definitely a rebranded tool.
Dead on with the air impact. I switched to the Ridgid line. Definitely strong enough for 99% of the work I do, and I'll break the air out if absolutely necessary. Bonus: Ridgid has lifetime warranty on the impact AND THE BATTERIES!
Those extractor bits are made by Erwin and everyone rebrands them. I have the Matco branded set of the exact set you have and I've never had a problem with them
I use my rivnut tool very rarely, but I'm happy to have one - if a thread wears out you can easily install a new one with just a drill and this tool - no welding, no thread cutting - but it is slow, and clumsy to use but I saved my ass multiple times
I learned that the PT850 is an air hungry sumbitch. It does phenomenal, if you can keep it fed. And it's not pressure it needs, its flow. First thing I tried with mine was drilling out the air chuck fitting, and that did it a lot of favors. The compressor I had feeding it was plenty high enough, so I wasn't worried there. I finally ended up going with a 1/2" ID air hose, with Rygo fittings, and all I can say is WOW. After that, I was busting shit loose that one of the other guys 3/4" NitroCat couldn't move. So, the two big things with a PT850 in my eyes are this. 1. Keep it oiled 2. Feed it plenty of air, in CFM.
I love my 1/2" Milwaukee Fuel. I'll take it over air 95% of the time, 1400 ft/lbs and dont have to deal with a hose in my way when I'm up on equipment.
I have the 1/2” Milwaukee Fuel as well. I liked it at first because it was cordless but I’ve been using my air IR more lately because it just feels better in my hand.
I've had a m18 1/2 gun for three years and it just pooped out on me. I took it apart and found out it had burned the end off of a large contact inside of the trigger. A new "electronics assembly" that includes the trigger runs about 120 bucks. I opted to order a new, next gen, bare gun for 200 off of Amazon.
You must be kidding me. You dont actually believe in Milwaukee's marketing wank when they say it has 1400 ft/lbs of torque do you? I find that very hard to believe seeing as how it cant even remove lug nuts fastened at 160 ft/lbs. I would love to see the proof of that outrageous number.
@@lassaut6794 all depends on which model you have...and look up torque test videos here on youtube where they use torque wrenches at various ft lbs working up to,and past manufacturer specs...then use the impacts to break em loose...provided that model actually does manufacturer specs lol,some of the ones people love(looking at you dewalt)seem to not fare so well on those tests
Glad to get some insight on the M12 right angle drill. Was debating between that and the 14.4 snap on. They seem to make install mudflaps 100x easier for PDI
I’m heavily invested in the m12 and m18 tools, and I definitely don’t regret the right angle m12 drill. It’s bailed me out on rusty exhaust manifolds when combined with the s/o super short m42 cobalt bit set
A few years late, but the rivet nut setter is a weekly use item for me. Collision tech of 18 years, i use the same one (Cornwell rebrand) for subframes, trunk floors, etc for several makes. The size doesn't effect me much, as I've got everything torn down pretty far for paint, spot welder access, etc. FYI to anyone this may help, there's Marson versions of this tool in the configuration of a regular old small hand riveter. Would be much more handy working in tight spaces. But i use lots of rivet nuts, great for all kinds of little weird project stuff too. Police pushbar strobe mounting, adding lighting to a tow truck, many many uses.
The only snap on air tool I have is their 3/8 impact and I absolutely hate it. It has trouble breaking loose anything with a little bit of lock tight on it. It will not take the driveshaft off a 9.25 and all the other guys impacts don't even hesitate
Absolutely right about the AP kit. Used it and liked it for where it can be used. It just needs to be reengineered. I have one of the huge Snap-on extractor sets and haven't had issues out of the ordinary. My preferred butane mini torch is one of those bernz-o-matic torches that come with the tips. Easy to use and cost effective.
Love your honest opinion on tools that don’t make you the money. I wouldn’t even want to add up all the tools I spent money on that didn’t measure up to what I thought they were or how much I would use them. Appreciate your opinion bro.
These were in all our toolboxes when I was in electronic and 2-way service. Worked OK for that and if you don't buy the fuel, even better. We used the Weller 80 W equivalent. In the field you can have no AC, but new inverters have taken care of that mostly.
Need some place to put all the tools... Rather buy a nice one once than replace cheap ones over and over as they wear out. I started with a Masterforce box, and it was ok for a year ish then started coming apart with all the drawers full. Had my snap on box for 10 years now and it works just as well as the day the dealer dropped it off.
I tell all the young guys not to go crazy on the Tool Box, A lot of the New Built Dealerships are using built in Tool Boxes, Most of the Mercedes and BMW dealers are Using a Built in Box system to Meet Auto Hause standards, however I notice a lot of the newer Toyota, Nissan dealers are going to this. I have a Orange Snap-On 1032 with a Hutch and a Side Cab at Home now ufff
That question comes from our logarithmic intuition on numbers when comparing big numbers to small ones. But prices and buying expensive things doesn't work like that. Just because I buy a house that costs $100,000, that doesn't mean I shouldn't consider buying something useless for $50, because then that's $50 spent on nothing, which is still money spent and going out of my wallet. Most people who can buy a toolbox for that much usually are able to do so because they don't waste small amounts of money on useless things and don't think "well this costs $1,000 so $3 is nothing compared to it". We even have a common phrase in Hungary that goes "who can't appreciate the small, don't deserve the big". You need to think in absolutes, and not relatives, avoid comparing different orders of magnitude. When I buy an expensive Stahlwille socket set for example, I won't buy the one that only costs $10 more if it only contains additional sockets I won't use. This is why many people get broke while still falling to the marketing strategy of "spending just a little more". It should never be an impulse but careful consideration, especially when buying expensive stuff. If the toolbox served him well, there's nothing to regret.
I'm a class eight diesel mechanic. Some of the battery powered tools are convenient but most of what I'm play with requires pneumatic power. That keeps me away from cordless impacts.
big fan of snap on tools here. snap on drillbits, taps, allen keys...they arent made of unobtainium, but cost a bit more than if they were. they have files for $20 a piece which is absolutely bonkers unless youre getting a 12" precision file made in the states. at work we make the machines that process ridgid pipe wrenches from raw casting to ready to paint, and snap on old school pipe wrenches are cast in the same foundry and finished on the same machines as ridgid, in the same factory, but they cost twice as much. never seen someone wear a pipe wrench out except plumbers
Battery tools are really replacing air tools. They’ve come a long way. Luv ingersoll rands w7152 Beast! But Milwaukee has such a line up(so many different tools) and 5yr warranty that i got the ir but went Milwaukee for the rest👍
Put them up on Craigslist and make your money back! It just happens. Everybody has leftover tools that they don't like or don't use. I still have old distributor adjustment wrenches (the bent type that are useless for anything else) and timing lights sitting around (and other stuff too). What can you do?
The crappy thing about tools is sometimes you have to buy a tool that you almost never use because although you may almost never use it when you do it’s a life saver Tool box is the one thing I don’t have and will eventually have to buy a freaking huge one my current toolbox has 6 wheels a crane and a built in compressor and runs on a cummins
The extractor set is a irwin set. Mine I bought from Matco.. but for some reason it came with right hand drills. I don't use it alot.. haven't broke any yet. Unf the wedge design can make the bolt tighter in the hole. Usually I use the harbor freight reverse drill bits and the screw just walks right out.
Why the hell would you spend $87 on some drill bits! And then over $500 on an air impact gun.. never understood why people are so in love with snap on tools with their outrageous pricing.
adam morton Most people don’t understand outside of mainstream hand tools snap on out sources many things or they are rebranded with a huge price increase.
@@readingrambo3058 yup, the only stuff made in America are their hand tools. The rest of the stuff is typically made in China, give it 20 years, theyll be making everything in China and the prices wont come down at all.
@@Nothingtoya now they waiting for Trump and most of the big companies they don't want him to win and the minute he loose they going to run to China so if you like America vote for him
I work on industrial machines (i.e. Cranes, land drills, giant compressors and everything else),. A machine I love to death is the EDM Extractor Drill machine. I don't care what type or shape of metal is stuck in what hole for whatever reason, the machine will remove it. It will drill a hole straight through a ball bearing including the bearing balls without even winching. It will drill through Inconel super alloy metal effortlessly. Once you use one, you'll toss all the crappy extractors, reverse drill bits, all that. No Snap-On does not have these, it's beyond their realm.
It isnt a "drill". Its just called an EDM. It's a machine that uses a tiny wire to erode metal using electricity while submerged. Not something that many people own.
@@leviholloway Portable EDM broken tap, drill bit, bolt, stud and reamer machine. No submersion required. Electrode head is mounted to a magnetic based so you can use it on most things, the electrodes are rigid and in many shapes and sizes. The people wasting money on a toolbox like that can get these machines. They are more productive and effective while not damaging the actual part. The machine averages $2000 and pays for it self quickly. EDM comes in many forms, wire EDM is awesome but not the same thing. This machine would be classified as "RAM EDM" instead, but portable and positional.
The beauty of Snap On tools is they have a part exchange policy, if you aren't happy with a tool or something better comes out the. You can use your old tool to pay off some of the cost of the new tool. Snap On tools that I use regularly have almost never let me down, the next time the van comes around I can exchange them without having to spend money on fuel Myself, the same can not be said of other tool manufacturers
Bro, power probes version of your soldering iron kicks ass. I used my buddies at work, and everytime I borrowed it. I always told myself " I gotta get this"
i bought the Milwaukee M12 soldering iron. i have been up 12 feet in the air on a logging truck soldering in 10 degree weather. it heats up fast, decent battery life, the larger battery gives it a good base, i like it so well, i got one for the truck, and one for the shop. once you use this you will never look at butane again.
@@brianfox1600 my dad had an ingersoll rand impact for 20 years and gave it to me and I've been using it for 5 years and it's never been rebuilt and still just as strong as it was new so now all my air tools is ingersoll and I've never had a problem
I hated buying that one expensive tool for myself that no one else wanted to buy in the shop, then everyone end up borrowing it when they run out of options
i have the butane soldering kit and i had the extractor set. i returned the extractor set after the first use. i was very disappointed with the extractor itself. it just wasnt hard enough and stripped the flutes with very little effort. the butane soldering kit was a great idea but it definitely isnt as good as it should or could be. most times i just grab the little turbo torch...fast easy and uses little butane.
Thing I like about air tools and more specifically impact wrenches is that they seem to last forever. I have a CP thats older than the hills and it still hammers away. I'd like to see how the battery operated ones tough over the years. After all they aren't very cheap, nor are they serviceable. Great video, thanks for the info!
I'm a road tech and the only air tool I keep on the truck anymore is a blow gun and my 1" impact. Electric tools are just a lot more convenient. Also if you are wanting a good butane soldering iron check out the power probe one.
@@jacobnunemaker7126 I've been looking at it. Idk if I will buy one new but if I come across a used one I will definitely pick it up. Still will probably carry my air 1"
You should definitely have your dealer replace that soldering iron, something must be wrong with it. It is made by Portasol, and I have the portasol branded version (1/2 the price for exactly the same tool). It heats up within a minute and works fantastic.
Snap on doesn’t make that impact. Sioux makes it. Snap on owns them, but you can get a Sioux branded gun for 350 bucks. The extractor set is made by Irwin I believe and yes the bits do go dull quite fast. I bought that same riv nut installer from Cornwell for the same application you were talking about and was also disappointed that it doesn’t fit.
Milwaukee has a corded right angle drill called the close quarters drill. It sucks its corded, but what is worse after the first two models the cord comes out the backside on the bottom which reduces the distance that you can actually get it in between. the first two Versions it comes out directly from the bottom so it doesn't up any more room. I've got four of them that I've found over the year's if id find them. I just recently decided to put two of them up for sale . People who know about the old style, try and buy them instantly. because they really are the tightest Close Quarters drill you can get with any strength in a right angle.
I regret my craftsman spline drive socket set. I thought the through hole design was awesome when I bought it but i wish I hadn't bought it more often than I'm glad I bought it
Every tool has it's limitations. With that being said I still use my air tools over my battery operated ones. I don't regret buying any tools. As a life long fixer. I have tools that I bought when I was young and there are times the fit the bill better then any new tool out there.
You mean like this $20 from HF? If you're too lazy for the part where you can drill a hole, put a nut and washer on the end of a rivnut and install these with any impact/drill/ratchet in the world... www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html?cid=paid_google|||1210&gclid=Cj0KCQjw17n1BRDEARIsAFDHFexwl7Tj6sWynBWiK3zmWgdCVGx01iGrux1m6Q6X3Oa--jeaDMqtBzwaAiHQEALw_wcB
My soldering iron was great,i used it for years.one cell was enough to install a remote starter,which i did hundreds of. But it burned out. The mac lasted longer but the tips dont last and getting replacements was out of the question.
I agree with you on the river nut tool. It works great when the room permits. I also ended up buying a regular 90 degree rivet tool for river nuts. Where space is more limited it works great. Eventually I’d like to invest in the pneumatic one
Have you tried the Milwaukee m12 soldering iron? I love mine, but I haven't tried using it on thicker gauge wire. Usually just 18-22 gauge wire. But it heats up in about 15 seconds. I love that thing.
I have the Milwaukee m12 soldering iron as well and it cut through 10 gauge like a knife through butter. Highly recommend that tool, especially to anyone that is tired of blowing through all of that butane half way through the job
I personally like the riv nut installer. I work on a lot of equipment with more room. I also have the kind like the old style riveter. Works better in tighter automotive applications
I have the Milwaukee 1/2 and a new IR 1/2 I personally use my IR over the Milwaukee because it’s a lot smaller and lighter. I keep my Milwaukee in my truck so I can use it at home, on a trip, work, or practically anywhere. That’s the only thing Milwaukee has over air tools. I have Milwaukee stubbys and ratchets and they’re worth there weight in gold. In my personal opinion electric grease gun is the best electric tool ever made
They'll always be a place for air tools in my opinion. No dead batteries, no replacing batteries. Half the cost as well. Cordless is fantastic, don't get me wrong. But them replacing air tools completely. Never.
It's amazing where the new lithium ion batteries have taken tools. I am a total convert to battery tools and as a Sawyer I never ever thought I would see electric chainsaws and they will keep getting better. On the other hand my air guns are the same now as they were 70 years ago
Great video. I recently purchased the 1/2 inch drive Milwaukee impact to replace my pneumatic one, and I have not used the air impact since. But I only had a $150 Aircat impact, not a $700 Snapon, so I don't regret buying it. Still keep it as a backup if anything happens to the Milwaukee or I forget to charge it haha.
Snap on im6100 was a crappy air impact. only lasted 3 days and died. Got it rebuilt and was still bad. Sold it to the mac guy and still have the ir231c for 22 years and never had it rebuilt.
The extractor kit looks like the one all the brands have there sticker on. Broke or stripped more extractors then screws removed. The soldering iron. I've had good luck with it but only repairing a wire or 2. Also theirs a shorter heat tip that actually works for the heat shrinks.
Still use Napa extractors, cheaper riv nut installer from Ram Tool (looks like a rivet gun), use chuck style Milwaukee right angle adapter on my drill (Milwaukee) as well as various chuck style extensions all 1/4 drive, Milwaukee right angle ratchet drive in 3/8 is great, and by far the Milwaukee 1/2 inch impact is one of the most impressive tools I have. Use Harbor Freight torque sticks to control it. It will snap grade 8 bolts too easy.
Find it weird that the butane soldering iron fell short. I've got a little off brand one that has up in~30 seconds for small wires and in a minute it's fully heated up, it's also a very good heat gun
I never seen much use of that Milwaukee right Angle when applying to the automotive field do to the fact you could just get a side Angle adapter for either a hex driver or impact wrench and you wouldn't half to worry much about the performance because you know exactly how your impact wrench or driver or hex operates plus the head on the right angle is to big and wide the adapter is a whole lot more smaller
Guys at my work use them often. Of course we work in the used cars department at our CDJR dealership, so we install mudflaps, running boards, covers, etc. So that right angle drill is nice to use.
I regret buying the Harbor Freight Omelete flipper spatuala. I mean, it seemed cool and needed and useful. but.... The omeletes get shot up to the ceiling. There are 6 of them just hanging onto the overhead light.
I have the Milwaukee angle drill for drilling broken exhaust stainless steel bolts and use a 6ah battery and it is awesome for that. Also with left hand drill bits it's best to drill a small pilot drill so the bit bites and pulls the screw out.
I find most air tools suffer from not enough air flow, not psi. If you’re running 100’ of 3/8” hose with standard 1/4” fittings/couplers, you’re not going to get the performance you’d expect out of your air tools. And if you’re running 1/4” hose to do anything other than air up tires, you might as well not even turn that compressor on!
A work buddy had Snap on tee allen key set he used them on a grub screw it twisted up like a cork screw changed them in the van the new set twisted aswell I got out a rusty tobacco tin wiht even ruster (not snap on) allen keys in it put one in tapped it with a small hammer the grub screw came out no problem
Couple things to add my friend- a lot of what your talking about transposes to aviation, however the aviation industry has perfected the tooling you speak of because it has to. Rivnut installer- yardstore.com small size 8/32-10/32 also can order custom thread sizes if needed. Not a huge tool at all. 90° drill, not cordless however the shank of a 90 on a 1/4-28 is the better part of a 1/2 inch. You would need special drill bits but they are quick and easy to find. The shortest setup for drilling I have used is 1" OAL. Drill extractors. You win. Jobber bits with a solid tool grade steel easyout is the best option. Reverse thread drill bits are a gimmick. Also look into a Johnson bar or "El Brutus" (look it up). Other option is an "old man" with a rivet gun. Item 4. Just buy a Wagner temp controlled setup. I understand you need stuff that "portable" however to do a job properly. Sacrifice time for quality and get the more solid tooling and spend a little more time for a better product 😉.
1) That rivnut tool is for 3/8”/M8 fasteners and up. There are smaller ones for fasteners suitable for automotive trim. 2) Why the heck would an auto mechanic want a right-angle drill, and why would a Snap-On truck even carry them? I associate those with electricians and plumbers drilling through studs. It sounds like you wanted a right-angle driver, not a drill. 4) Get a heat gun for heat shrink. You'll be much happier. Unless you're doing board-level repairs, you should be crimping automotive connections, not soldering them.
I use the 90 degree Milwaukee with a big cotter pin and emery cloth in between chucked into the chuck and and use it for sanding holes like on wheel bearing replacement before putting the bearing back in the hub. works awesome.
The only advantage to the PT850 in our shop was color, we have a guy that’s nuts about the snap on green. He got one in green, it stays at snap on’s warranty center more than his box. My 2235TiMax IR gun has been going strong for almost three years.
Sounds like someone doesnt k ow how t use that soldering iron....turn the heat setting up on the bottom....works great. Use it every day in an industrial setting all day long
Mine heats up FAST, I can solder 12/14 gauge in under a minute from fire up. I had the older portasol one for years. I replaced it with the new snap on one which works great, but it sucks to get lit with the pezo. Maybe you got a dud?
I have an butane soldering iron that was working good. hot in 20 sec. But the knob on it broke after almost 10 years. I used it at work when i worked on cars too.
on the soldering iron. i have the same one i am a 12 volt tech.i have to 100% disagree i had to have mine replaced because the first one was like how you explained,but my replacement has been going hard for the last 2 years i get at least a 45 mins of run time if its taking to long to heat up the tip may be damaged inside and when doing heat shrink you gotta run that curved slip on piece to it reflects the heat. and it takes about 5 mins to heat up. but great videos bro keep up the great work!
The DS 1500 body style has no room for a bulky tool to install those rivnuts. Of course the DT has it's own issues with paint on the bolts for running boards. If I recall the thread on those is a 4x1.00. What we need is a tool that will help do a trailer wiring harness kit on a JL wrangler. Or a better template to put the clearance lights on a 2500/3500 truck.
You’d want to use mechanic drill bits. Jobber drill bits are the long drill bits commonly found and used multi-purposely. Mechanic drill bits are much shorter for use in tight spaces and overall sturdiness.
I have the 29 piece Mac "cobalt advanced helical flute set" drill bit set as they call it lol and they work great. best drill bits ive ever purchased. pricey but worth the money IMO.
MAC drill bits I found out are almost all rebranded Irvin drill bits. Once I figured that out I picked them up online and the Irvin drill bits I've had for over 2 years have never failed me. Also saved me over $50 and a lot of headaches in the process
Really enjoyed your reviews. Succinct and well spoken. I was really looking forward to the Milwaukee right angle but found it had the fallbacks you stated plus it was sold with the compact battery separately.
The extractor set you’re speaking of is great as long as you take your time. You’re right in the the bits break easily but my Snap On guy always replaced them for me. But yes, it is a finicky tool set set, but I have removed broken and stripped bolts and screws with the left handed drill bits alone without having to use the extractors.
Regarding the Milwaukee right angle cordless drill, I bought my first drill, variable speed reversible corded black and decker in 1976 when I was 22. Fast forward to 2019, it finally quit working. So I was looking to replace it. We already had a Hitachi cordless drill, but it had nicad batteries, and although it served it’s purpose through the years, I presume we all know the disadvantages of that type. I discovered the Black & Decker was broke because I needed to drill a hole in the front door for a deadbolt. I could not find many corded drills, And especially ones with clutch settings. The Hitachi just did not have enough power to drill the hole as fast I would’ve liked. I found a Ryobi and used that with the hole saw. Then I found a black and decker matrix with the clutch. So now I had 2 corded drills with plenty of power. Then I discovered the lithium ion powered tools. Since I already had two standard drills with plenty of power, I bought my first Milwaukee tool, the right angle M12. I first used it to drill two holes in two closet doors. The right angle feature was not required in this case. But I have four cabinets where I had to change the hinges and the right angle drill came in quite handy. I also like the key-less Chuck. When tightening a drillbit it just feels solid. I have had no problem with the depth with the bits I have used. Battery life with 2.0’s have been just fine for my purposes, because on any given day I may only need to drill six holes.The bigger M12s do add a little more weight, but I consider it negligible. Therefore I use this in place of my Ryobi and black and decker corded drill’s a lot. I do wish however that the RPMs would be a little faster but it still gets the job done. Mine does also have that delay-momentary start up, but only at settings 1, 2 and 3... it disappears at all higher settings. I estimate the delay to be an “entire quarter of a second” to ramp up to max speed. It shuts off immediately. BTW I did like the vIdeo.
Went into a snap on truck yesterday the guy did not like it when after he says we offer a service I looked at the drill and said does the battery have a warranty? No. Does the drill have a warranty? No so what service is there with it? Haha
I have the snap on exdl10, oem 45467 and the neiko 01923a sets and they are all identical, snap on does not make all their tools sometimes they rebrand, I also have the snap on shcp1a hose clamp tool and the mayhew 28680 hose clamp tool and the both are identical down to the makers marks.
I bought an MG725 on Facebook marketplace for $100 to replace my Earthquake XT and when I saw a PT850 for $150 I jumped on that like white on rice used it a few times turned out it's crap and brought my 725 back from home
I work on my own car occasionally, so when I'm buying a new tool, it's cause I have to have it for the job - impact gun, impact sockets, breaker bars, etc. It's hard to regret buying a tool when you have to have it to finish the job. Those auto brake bleeders from AutoZone - about the only tool I regret buying. HA! some clear tubing and a water bottle do the job better.
Must say I absolutely love my 1442 rivnut setter, but I work mainly on heavy duty trucks, so I have a lot more room to use it most of the time...howdy to you from a mechanic from Dayton!
When you have a tool box so big you buy tools you think got stolen only to show up deep in the tool box at a later date , I have 3 of everything ! 😂
I've bought tools for my basement- garage - cottage but I'm always needing something something out of reach Please tell me I don't need to buy three of everything Milwaukee.
Happens to me all the time lol
I have five or ten 10 mm 1/4 sockets. Not sure how many, but I can always find one. I set 10mm socket bait traps (big magnets) around the corners of the garage next to the rodent traps. Every now and then I catch a 10mm.
Big Wrench Garage funny 😂, mine will be found by my family when they put me in a pine box !
I'm a field service heavy mechanic. I absolutely love my Milwaukee 3/8" and 1/2" guns and just ordered a Milwaukee 1" gun. I have PTO on board air but my Milwaukee stuff has taken the lead usage and hasn't let me down. My only regretted purchase was a new Cornwell Pro Series box because a month later I was promoted to field service
Bro switching the air line to a bigger adapter made a world of difference in the compressor tools. I was so disappointed in my impact gun and was about to get rid of it. Switched the adapters to a bigger size and damn. Glad I didn’t get rid of it
Yeah a high flow 1/4" fitting will make a huge difference.
Talking about, for example, a C fitting vs a D fitting?
I recently got a new one and it is weaker than my original
The snap on dude rolled up one day with his normal truck and a second smaller truck, i asked him and he was like “oh everything on that truck is 50% off”, so i busted my ass over there, looked around at some sockets and such then BAM right there in the back, brand new pt850, price tag of $300! Damn right i bought it, and i love it
I know right?!!! The fact they can do this makes you realize nothing on that Snap-On truck is ever worth full price!
and it won't knock loose tight fasteners so you still gotta get the electric-on-steroids or else the I-R
Riv-nut installer works great in a factory setting in my experience. Can’t even imagine using it in an automotive shop. Very limited access. On the other hand, for $70 and it comes with all those packs of hardware, one could probably at least make his $70 back by using it here and there. But then there’s the issue of it taking up space in the tool box. If you had your own shop with a tool storage it would be shelf-worthy for occasional use. My two cents.
I can only comment on my circumstances. As a workshop manager of Australian mine engineering workshop, we work under extreme circumstances, both surface and underground. Our purchasing policy for suppliers is extensive, very complexed and detailed. In simplifying, all providers must supply 'proof of statement'. This involves submitting proposed supply equipment to our R&D division for extensive testing to failure. From here, the manufactor must prove the equipment failed within their submitted statement tolerances. Failure leads to loss of supply, future loss of availability of tender and possible supply suspension for 3 years. Pass and the supply contract is yours, allowing us access to the very best equipment available. Extreme ? Yes. Regarding air vs. battery. We cannot, and do not use battery powered equipment simply because extensive testing has revealed servere manufacturing defects and cannot be successfully certified intrinsically safe. Great vid, new sub. Greetings from Woomera, South Australia 👍👍🇦🇺
Now that’s how you make sure a tool is the right tool! Thanks man🤘🏻
Don’t know what mine that would be at? I’m an aussie mine mechanic and we are supplied shit mate. I’ve actually been around a fair bit and actually haven’t heard this one before.
I'd think you can't use battery-powered tools in a mine environment because of internal sparking. This seems obvious.
Soon as you put intrinsically safe Into the spec you just deleted every known electric tool but maybe a few lights ...
The complexity of the electric tool adds risk to failure without a doubt. But if your life and a $1billion process is not dependent on the tool working, then electrics are the way to go. I love air tools; their simplicity, power, and longevity. I have a full collection of air, but I still grab the electric ones to do the job. If i had to jump out a plane and my life was dependent on a tool working to fix the parachute, I'd grab the air (and check the tank first!).
There's 2 types of 1/2 inch impact guns on the market....Ingersoll Rand, and everything else. I stopped buying everything else years ago.
I owned this impact in this video. Ended up trading it right back in for the 1/2 monster lithium snap on battery impact. I also went to cornwell and Ingersoll rand air tools. I don’t think anyone should use any thing other than ingersoll air tools. Cornwell impacts are actually manufactured by ingersoll which is awesome.
I have the stubby 1/2 inch IR air gun and it packs a punch for its size
Chicago pneumatic ain't no slouch or Air Cat
I would put my Aircat impacts up against anything else. Even IR.
@@ShamelessTR even 3 years down the line? Air cat is good but they just don't have the long life that ir has. I got a buddy I've worked with for 4 years and he's on his 3rd air cat
I was a heavy duty Cat Field Service Tech for over 25 years, total of 50 years as a Diesel Tech overall. I could outfit a whole shop with stuff I “had” to have! I know a lot of us could, lol
For the butane torch if you want a bigger/hotter flame just unscrew the tip base at the plastic collar and run it bare. It has the same flame as compact “gun” style. I have the same from Wurth definitely a rebranded tool.
Dead on with the air impact. I switched to the Ridgid line. Definitely strong enough for 99% of the work I do, and I'll break the air out if absolutely necessary. Bonus: Ridgid has lifetime warranty on the impact AND THE BATTERIES!
Those extractor bits are made by Erwin and everyone rebrands them. I have the Matco branded set of the exact set you have and I've never had a problem with them
MOST Irwin stuff is not made in the US anymore and it is not what it used to be. Mostly junk now. That's my experience.
1400 ft. lb. impact wrench is super important for our RV stabilizing tow bars at the dealership. You’re so right about the air vs. battery :)
I use my rivnut tool very rarely, but I'm happy to have one - if a thread wears out you can easily install a new one with just a drill and this tool - no welding, no thread cutting - but it is slow, and clumsy to use
but I saved my ass multiple times
I learned that the PT850 is an air hungry sumbitch. It does phenomenal, if you can keep it fed. And it's not pressure it needs, its flow. First thing I tried with mine was drilling out the air chuck fitting, and that did it a lot of favors. The compressor I had feeding it was plenty high enough, so I wasn't worried there. I finally ended up going with a 1/2" ID air hose, with Rygo fittings, and all I can say is WOW. After that, I was busting shit loose that one of the other guys 3/4" NitroCat couldn't move.
So, the two big things with a PT850 in my eyes are this.
1. Keep it oiled
2. Feed it plenty of air, in CFM.
I love my 1/2" Milwaukee Fuel. I'll take it over air 95% of the time, 1400 ft/lbs and dont have to deal with a hose in my way when I'm up on equipment.
I have the 1/2” Milwaukee Fuel as well. I liked it at first because it was cordless but I’ve been using my air IR more lately because it just feels better in my hand.
I got mine for $209 last year and came with a free M18 5.0 on deal.
I've had a m18 1/2 gun for three years and it just pooped out on me. I took it apart and found out it had burned the end off of a large contact inside of the trigger. A new "electronics assembly" that includes the trigger runs about 120 bucks. I opted to order a new, next gen, bare gun for 200 off of Amazon.
You must be kidding me. You dont actually believe in Milwaukee's marketing wank when they say it has 1400 ft/lbs of torque do you? I find that very hard to believe seeing as how it cant even remove lug nuts fastened at 160 ft/lbs. I would love to see the proof of that outrageous number.
@@lassaut6794 all depends on which model you have...and look up torque test videos here on youtube where they use torque wrenches at various ft lbs working up to,and past manufacturer specs...then use the impacts to break em loose...provided that model actually does manufacturer specs lol,some of the ones people love(looking at you dewalt)seem to not fare so well on those tests
Glad to get some insight on the M12 right angle drill. Was debating between that and the 14.4 snap on. They seem to make install mudflaps 100x easier for PDI
you can get a right angle rivnut tool and i've never struggled to get it in a small gap. Looks like a pop rivet plier
I’m heavily invested in the m12 and m18 tools, and I definitely don’t regret the right angle m12 drill. It’s bailed me out on rusty exhaust manifolds when combined with the s/o super short m42 cobalt bit set
A few years late, but the rivet nut setter is a weekly use item for me. Collision tech of 18 years, i use the same one (Cornwell rebrand) for subframes, trunk floors, etc for several makes. The size doesn't effect me much, as I've got everything torn down pretty far for paint, spot welder access, etc. FYI to anyone this may help, there's Marson versions of this tool in the configuration of a regular old small hand riveter. Would be much more handy working in tight spaces. But i use lots of rivet nuts, great for all kinds of little weird project stuff too. Police pushbar strobe mounting, adding lighting to a tow truck, many many uses.
The only snap on air tool I have is their 3/8 impact and I absolutely hate it. It has trouble breaking loose anything with a little bit of lock tight on it. It will not take the driveshaft off a 9.25 and all the other guys impacts don't even hesitate
the new soldering iron actually works pretty good. i rewired,soldered and heat shrunk a whole 74 nova wiring harness with no refill, not bad
Absolutely right about the AP kit. Used it and liked it for where it can be used. It just needs to be reengineered. I have one of the huge Snap-on extractor sets and haven't had issues out of the ordinary. My preferred butane mini torch is one of those bernz-o-matic torches that come with the tips. Easy to use and cost effective.
Love your honest opinion on tools that don’t make you the money. I wouldn’t even want to add up all the tools I spent money on that didn’t measure up to what I thought they were or how much I would use them. Appreciate your opinion bro.
LOVE ❤️ my left hand “drill hog” brand bits from eBay made out of some alien shit, $30 eats anything I throw at them, lifetime warranty.
I had the same issue with the angle drill, I swapped chucks to a low profile keyed Jacobs. Love it now, especially for stuff high up.
These were in all our toolboxes when I was in electronic and 2-way service. Worked OK for that and if you don't buy the fuel, even better. We used the Weller 80 W equivalent. In the field you can have no AC, but new inverters have taken care of that mostly.
You don’t regret buying your $50,000 dollar toolbox ?
Why in the world would anyone regret that?
Need some place to put all the tools... Rather buy a nice one once than replace cheap ones over and over as they wear out. I started with a Masterforce box, and it was ok for a year ish then started coming apart with all the drawers full. Had my snap on box for 10 years now and it works just as well as the day the dealer dropped it off.
I tell all the young guys not to go crazy on the Tool Box, A lot of the New Built Dealerships are
using built in Tool Boxes, Most of the Mercedes and BMW dealers are Using a Built in Box system to Meet Auto Hause standards, however I notice a lot of the newer Toyota, Nissan dealers are going to
this. I have a Orange Snap-On 1032 with a Hutch and a Side Cab at Home now ufff
That question comes from our logarithmic intuition on numbers when comparing big numbers to small ones. But prices and buying expensive things doesn't work like that. Just because I buy a house that costs $100,000, that doesn't mean I shouldn't consider buying something useless for $50, because then that's $50 spent on nothing, which is still money spent and going out of my wallet. Most people who can buy a toolbox for that much usually are able to do so because they don't waste small amounts of money on useless things and don't think "well this costs $1,000 so $3 is nothing compared to it". We even have a common phrase in Hungary that goes "who can't appreciate the small, don't deserve the big". You need to think in absolutes, and not relatives, avoid comparing different orders of magnitude. When I buy an expensive Stahlwille socket set for example, I won't buy the one that only costs $10 more if it only contains additional sockets I won't use. This is why many people get broke while still falling to the marketing strategy of "spending just a little more". It should never be an impulse but careful consideration, especially when buying expensive stuff. If the toolbox served him well, there's nothing to regret.
Yeah that's right if i were him i'd rather spend on quality tools than box and save money. This guy will be in debt for the rest of his life.
I'm a class eight diesel mechanic. Some of the battery powered tools are convenient but most of what I'm play with requires pneumatic power. That keeps me away from cordless impacts.
big fan of snap on tools here. snap on drillbits, taps, allen keys...they arent made of unobtainium, but cost a bit more than if they were. they have files for $20 a piece which is absolutely bonkers unless youre getting a 12" precision file made in the states.
at work we make the machines that process ridgid pipe wrenches from raw casting to ready to paint, and snap on old school pipe wrenches are cast in the same foundry and finished on the same machines as ridgid, in the same factory, but they cost twice as much. never seen someone wear a pipe wrench out except plumbers
Battery tools are really replacing air tools. They’ve come a long way. Luv ingersoll rands w7152 Beast! But Milwaukee has such a line up(so many different tools) and 5yr warranty that i got the ir but went Milwaukee for the rest👍
Put them up on Craigslist and make your money back! It just happens. Everybody has leftover tools that they don't like or don't use. I still have old distributor adjustment wrenches (the bent type that are useless for anything else) and timing lights sitting around (and other stuff too). What can you do?
I have the snap on air impact and I use my electric earthquake impact way more I like my air gun but man it struggles sometimes
The crappy thing about tools is sometimes you have to buy a tool that you almost never use because although you may almost never use it when you do it’s a life saver
Tool box is the one thing I don’t have and will eventually have to buy a freaking huge one my current toolbox has 6 wheels a crane and a built in compressor and runs on a cummins
The extractor set is a irwin set. Mine I bought from Matco.. but for some reason it came with right hand drills.
I don't use it alot.. haven't broke any yet. Unf the wedge design can make the bolt tighter in the hole. Usually I use the harbor freight reverse drill bits and the screw just walks right out.
Why the hell would you spend $87 on some drill bits! And then over $500 on an air impact gun.. never understood why people are so in love with snap on tools with their outrageous pricing.
adam morton Most people don’t understand outside of mainstream hand tools snap on out sources many things or they are rebranded with a huge price increase.
@@readingrambo3058 yup, the only stuff made in America are their hand tools. The rest of the stuff is typically made in China, give it 20 years, theyll be making everything in China and the prices wont come down at all.
Josh B I don’t think they will need 20 years
Well, they're certainly working their way to it pretty fast.
@@Nothingtoya now they waiting for Trump and most of the big companies they don't want him to win and the minute he loose they going to run to China so if you like America vote for him
I work on industrial machines (i.e. Cranes, land drills, giant compressors and everything else),. A machine I love to death is the EDM Extractor Drill machine. I don't care what type or shape of metal is stuck in what hole for whatever reason, the machine will remove it. It will drill a hole straight through a ball bearing including the bearing balls without even winching. It will drill through Inconel super alloy metal effortlessly. Once you use one, you'll toss all the crappy extractors, reverse drill bits, all that. No Snap-On does not have these, it's beyond their realm.
It isnt a "drill". Its just called an EDM. It's a machine that uses a tiny wire to erode metal using electricity while submerged.
Not something that many people own.
@@leviholloway Portable EDM broken tap, drill bit, bolt, stud and reamer machine. No submersion required. Electrode head is mounted to a magnetic based so you can use it on most things, the electrodes are rigid and in many shapes and sizes. The people wasting money on a toolbox like that can get these machines. They are more productive and effective while not damaging the actual part. The machine averages $2000 and pays for it self quickly. EDM comes in many forms, wire EDM is awesome but not the same thing. This machine would be classified as "RAM EDM" instead, but portable and positional.
The beauty of Snap On tools is they have a part exchange policy, if you aren't happy with a tool or something better comes out the. You can use your old tool to pay off some of the cost of the new tool. Snap On tools that I use regularly have almost never let me down, the next time the van comes around I can exchange them without having to spend money on fuel Myself, the same can not be said of other tool manufacturers
Bro, power probes version of your soldering iron kicks ass. I used my buddies at work, and everytime I borrowed it. I always told myself " I gotta get this"
That milwaukee right angle drill is a beast! It can fit it in tight spots a normal 1/2” full size cordless drill wont fit.
i bought the Milwaukee M12 soldering iron. i have been up 12 feet in the air on a logging truck soldering in 10 degree weather. it heats up fast, decent battery life, the larger battery gives it a good base, i like it so well, i got one for the truck, and one for the shop. once you use this you will never look at butane again.
That's why ingersoll rand is the only air impact to use
A lot cheaper also then snap on my opinion better than Snap-on
@@brianfox1600 my dad had an ingersoll rand impact for 20 years and gave it to me and I've been using it for 5 years and it's never been rebuilt and still just as strong as it was new so now all my air tools is ingersoll and I've never had a problem
@@nichalesprice818 why buy air tools over electric?
@@Drew-cw7hs oh no I hate air tools I use my dewalt more than anything but if you use air tools ingersoll rand
Harbor Freight Xtreme Torque 1/2” air impact is $130.00. Great wrench unless you’re more worried about the name on the tool than how well it works.
I hated buying that one expensive tool for myself that no one else wanted to buy in the shop, then everyone end up borrowing it when they run out of options
i have the butane soldering kit and i had the extractor set. i returned the extractor set after the first use. i was very disappointed with the extractor itself. it just wasnt hard enough and stripped the flutes with very little effort. the butane soldering kit was a great idea but it definitely isnt as good as it should or could be. most times i just grab the little turbo torch...fast easy and uses little butane.
Thing I like about air tools and more specifically impact wrenches is that they seem to last forever. I have a CP thats older than the hills and it still hammers away. I'd like to see how the battery operated ones tough over the years. After all they aren't very cheap, nor are they serviceable.
Great video, thanks for the info!
Used a CP 1/2" impact , it had been bought in the 40s, sent back to the factory for a rebuild in the 80s , measured at 450 ft lbs torque
The butane soldering tool is the same as my portasol. There is a rotating heat adjustment on the end by the refill point.
I'm a road tech and the only air tool I keep on the truck anymore is a blow gun and my 1" impact. Electric tools are just a lot more convenient. Also if you are wanting a good butane soldering iron check out the power probe one.
Outside of it's crazy price, Milwaukee has a new 1 inch impact. Check it out.
@@jacobnunemaker7126 I've been looking at it. Idk if I will buy one new but if I come across a used one I will definitely pick it up. Still will probably carry my air 1"
You should definitely have your dealer replace that soldering iron, something must be wrong with it. It is made by Portasol, and I have the portasol branded version (1/2 the price for exactly the same tool). It heats up within a minute and works fantastic.
Snap on doesn’t make that impact. Sioux makes it. Snap on owns them, but you can get a Sioux branded gun for 350 bucks. The extractor set is made by Irwin I believe and yes the bits do go dull quite fast. I bought that same riv nut installer from Cornwell for the same application you were talking about and was also disappointed that it doesn’t fit.
Milwaukee has a corded right angle drill called the close quarters drill. It sucks its corded, but what is worse after the first two models the cord comes out the backside on the bottom which reduces the distance that you can actually get it in between. the first two Versions it comes out directly from the bottom so it doesn't up any more room. I've got four of them that I've found over the year's if id find them. I just recently decided to put two of them up for sale . People who know about the old style, try and buy them instantly. because they really are the tightest Close Quarters drill you can get with any strength in a right angle.
I regret my craftsman spline drive socket set. I thought the through hole design was awesome when I bought it but i wish I hadn't bought it more often than I'm glad I bought it
Every tool has it's limitations. With that being said I still use my air tools over my battery operated ones. I don't regret buying any tools. As a life long fixer. I have tools that I bought when I was young and there are times the fit the bill better then any new tool out there.
Too bad you can't combine the right angle screw gun, and the rivnut tool, and end up with a right angle rivnut tool.... 😜👩🏭🚘
You mean like this $20 from HF?
If you're too lazy for the part where you can drill a hole, put a nut and washer on the end of a rivnut and install these with any impact/drill/ratchet in the world...
www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html?cid=paid_google|||1210&gclid=Cj0KCQjw17n1BRDEARIsAFDHFexwl7Tj6sWynBWiK3zmWgdCVGx01iGrux1m6Q6X3Oa--jeaDMqtBzwaAiHQEALw_wcB
Lots of rivet pullers out there have swivel heads. not sure why the 'rivet-nut-puller' didn't swivel?
My soldering iron was great,i used it for years.one cell was enough to install a remote starter,which i did hundreds of. But it burned out. The mac lasted longer but the tips dont last and getting replacements was out of the question.
I agree with you on the river nut tool. It works great when the room permits. I also ended up buying a regular 90 degree rivet tool for river nuts. Where space is more limited it works great. Eventually I’d like to invest in the pneumatic one
Have you tried the Milwaukee m12 soldering iron? I love mine, but I haven't tried using it on thicker gauge wire. Usually just 18-22 gauge wire. But it heats up in about 15 seconds. I love that thing.
I've been super tempted to buy it , but keep pushing it off. I know it's under $ 100 I believe.
That may be one I’m gonna have to try...hell my snapon guy carries them, I’ll just trade in this stupid drill😂
I have the Milwaukee m12 soldering iron as well and it cut through 10 gauge like a knife through butter. Highly recommend that tool, especially to anyone that is tired of blowing through all of that butane half way through the job
I personally like the riv nut installer. I work on a lot of equipment with more room. I also have the kind like the old style riveter. Works better in tighter automotive applications
I have the Milwaukee 1/2 and a new IR 1/2 I personally use my IR over the Milwaukee because it’s a lot smaller and lighter. I keep my Milwaukee in my truck so I can use it at home, on a trip, work, or practically anywhere. That’s the only thing Milwaukee has over air tools. I have Milwaukee stubbys and ratchets and they’re worth there weight in gold. In my personal opinion electric grease gun is the best electric tool ever made
I love my electric grease gun so much!
What kind of grease gun are ya'll running?
Milwaukee m12 and the dewalt 20 volt
They'll always be a place for air tools in my opinion. No dead batteries, no replacing batteries. Half the cost as well. Cordless is fantastic, don't get me wrong. But them replacing air tools completely. Never.
It's amazing where the new lithium ion batteries have taken tools. I am a total convert to battery tools and as a Sawyer I never ever thought I would see electric chainsaws and they will keep getting better. On the other hand my air guns are the same now as they were 70 years ago
Me as well. My DeWalt chainsaw keeps up withy husq 350 all day!
Great video. I recently purchased the 1/2 inch drive Milwaukee impact to replace my pneumatic one, and I have not used the air impact since. But I only had a $150 Aircat impact, not a $700 Snapon, so I don't regret buying it. Still keep it as a backup if anything happens to the Milwaukee or I forget to charge it haha.
aircat is the way to go, snap on pneumatic tools are way overpriced
@@89laxbro I agree. Never had an issue with my Aircat, just wanted a cordless impact haha
Your aircat will kick that 850 in the nuts. Lol
Snap on im6100 was a crappy air impact. only lasted 3 days and died. Got it rebuilt and was still bad. Sold it to the mac guy and still have the ir231c for 22 years and never had it rebuilt.
I have an IR231C and absolutely LOVE it. It is just awesome. Has a permanent spot in my box.
Change the position of the adjustment knob in the torch. Easy to do and will save on butane.
The extractor kit looks like the one all the brands have there sticker on. Broke or stripped more extractors then screws removed. The soldering iron. I've had good luck with it but only repairing a wire or 2. Also theirs a shorter heat tip that actually works for the heat shrinks.
Still use Napa extractors, cheaper riv nut installer from Ram Tool (looks like a rivet gun), use chuck style Milwaukee right angle adapter on my drill (Milwaukee) as well as various chuck style extensions all 1/4 drive, Milwaukee right angle ratchet drive in 3/8 is great, and by far the Milwaukee 1/2 inch impact is one of the most impressive tools I have. Use Harbor Freight torque sticks to control it. It will snap grade 8 bolts too easy.
Find it weird that the butane soldering iron fell short. I've got a little off brand one that has up in~30 seconds for small wires and in a minute it's fully heated up, it's also a very good heat gun
I never seen much use of that Milwaukee right Angle when applying to the automotive field do to the fact you could just get a side Angle adapter for either a hex driver or impact wrench and you wouldn't half to worry much about the performance because you know exactly how your impact wrench or driver or hex operates plus the head on the right angle is to big and wide the adapter is a whole lot more smaller
Well, the Milwaukee is a right angle drill first off and the SnapOn is electric Ratchet/impact, of course there would be no comparison
Guys at my work use them often. Of course we work in the used cars department at our CDJR dealership, so we install mudflaps, running boards, covers, etc. So that right angle drill is nice to use.
I use the right angle drill for busted exhaust manifold studs
My butane soldering iron sucks too. It's a 125watt same problems. I bought a mini torch with a 4 1/2" flame. It sucks too.
I regret buying the Harbor Freight Omelete flipper spatuala. I mean, it seemed cool and needed and useful. but....
The omeletes get shot up to the ceiling. There are 6 of them just hanging onto the overhead light.
You made me laugh out loud. Thanks.
I have the Milwaukee angle drill for drilling broken exhaust stainless steel bolts and use a 6ah battery and it is awesome for that. Also with left hand drill bits it's best to drill a small pilot drill so the bit bites and pulls the screw out.
I like air impacts for working in shop not having to run out of battery on a job.
I find most air tools suffer from not enough air flow, not psi. If you’re running 100’ of 3/8” hose with standard 1/4” fittings/couplers, you’re not going to get the performance you’d expect out of your air tools. And if you’re running 1/4” hose to do anything other than air up tires, you might as well not even turn that compressor on!
First one i tried with that extractor set, boom snapped
A work buddy had Snap on tee allen key set he used them on a grub screw it twisted up like a cork screw changed them in the van the new set twisted aswell I got out a rusty tobacco tin wiht even ruster (not snap on) allen keys in it put one in tapped it with a small hammer the grub screw came out no problem
Rivnut tool is absolutely perfect for installing roof racks , and not much else
Couple things to add my friend- a lot of what your talking about transposes to aviation, however the aviation industry has perfected the tooling you speak of because it has to. Rivnut installer- yardstore.com small size 8/32-10/32 also can order custom thread sizes if needed. Not a huge tool at all. 90° drill, not cordless however the shank of a 90 on a 1/4-28 is the better part of a 1/2 inch. You would need special drill bits but they are quick and easy to find. The shortest setup for drilling I have used is 1" OAL. Drill extractors. You win. Jobber bits with a solid tool grade steel easyout is the best option. Reverse thread drill bits are a gimmick. Also look into a Johnson bar or "El Brutus" (look it up). Other option is an "old man" with a rivet gun. Item 4. Just buy a Wagner temp controlled setup. I understand you need stuff that "portable" however to do a job properly. Sacrifice time for quality and get the more solid tooling and spend a little more time for a better product 😉.
And if you're really in a bind on space for drilling, get a pancake drill with a stubby threaded bit.
1) That rivnut tool is for 3/8”/M8 fasteners and up. There are smaller ones for fasteners suitable for automotive trim.
2) Why the heck would an auto mechanic want a right-angle drill, and why would a Snap-On truck even carry them? I associate those with electricians and plumbers drilling through studs. It sounds like you wanted a right-angle driver, not a drill.
4) Get a heat gun for heat shrink. You'll be much happier. Unless you're doing board-level repairs, you should be crimping automotive connections, not soldering them.
I use the 90 degree Milwaukee with a big cotter pin and emery cloth in between chucked into the chuck and and use it for sanding holes like on wheel bearing replacement before putting the bearing back in the hub. works awesome.
The only advantage to the PT850 in our shop was color, we have a guy that’s nuts about the snap on green. He got one in green, it stays at snap on’s warranty center more than his box. My 2235TiMax IR gun has been going strong for almost three years.
Sounds like someone doesnt k ow how t use that soldering iron....turn the heat setting up on the bottom....works great. Use it every day in an industrial setting all day long
skyviewproductions I agree i have the portasol.. which is who makes it for snapon.. never had a problem with mine.
Mine heats up FAST, I can solder 12/14 gauge in under a minute from fire up. I had the older portasol one for years. I replaced it with the new snap on one which works great, but it sucks to get lit with the pezo. Maybe you got a dud?
I have an butane soldering iron that was working good. hot in 20 sec. But the knob on it broke after almost 10 years. I used it at work when i worked on cars too.
I use the soldering iron, and don't think it takes long at all to heat up. There is a dial for heat, maybe you have it all the way down.....?
on the soldering iron. i have the same one i am a 12 volt tech.i have to 100% disagree i had to have mine replaced because the first one was like how you explained,but my replacement has been going hard for the last 2 years i get at least a 45 mins of run time if its taking to long to heat up the tip may be damaged inside and when doing heat shrink you gotta run that curved slip on piece to it reflects the heat. and it takes about 5 mins to heat up. but great videos bro keep up the great work!
Blow some air through the tip to clean debris from platinum strip.
The DS 1500 body style has no room for a bulky tool to install those rivnuts. Of course the DT has it's own issues with paint on the bolts for running boards. If I recall the thread on those is a 4x1.00.
What we need is a tool that will help do a trailer wiring harness kit on a JL wrangler. Or a better template to put the clearance lights on a 2500/3500 truck.
great honest opinion... truth about air tools too even nailguns are going battery powered
that rivnut installer is a lifesaver for me. I work on switchgear, and they come out looking slick and working well.
You’d want to use mechanic drill bits. Jobber drill bits are the long drill bits commonly found and used multi-purposely. Mechanic drill bits are much shorter for use in tight spaces and overall sturdiness.
Never purchased snap on drill bits like you said not worth the money. The MAC drill bits are sweet but I'm sure they dont make them. Great video!!
I have the 29 piece Mac "cobalt advanced helical flute set" drill bit set as they call it lol and they work great. best drill bits ive ever purchased. pricey but worth the money IMO.
MAC drill bits I found out are almost all rebranded Irvin drill bits. Once I figured that out I picked them up online and the Irvin drill bits I've had for over 2 years have never failed me. Also saved me over $50 and a lot of headaches in the process
And the Mac bits are warrantied for life. I got a nice drill doctor but who the heck has time to sharpen dull bits? Not me!
i use that 90 degree Milwaukee nearly every day. The Snap on version is 3-4xs the money and only has hex chuck.
Really enjoyed your reviews. Succinct and well spoken. I was really looking forward to the Milwaukee right angle but found it had the fallbacks you stated plus it was sold with the compact battery separately.
The extractor set you’re speaking of is great as long as you take your time. You’re right in the the bits break easily but my Snap On guy always replaced them for me. But yes, it is a finicky tool set set, but I have removed broken and stripped bolts and screws with the left handed drill bits alone without having to use the extractors.
The snap on right angle isn’t a chucked head... it’s a quick change. The Milwaukee is a chucked head.
That black box with the blue trim looks beautiful.
Regarding the Milwaukee right angle cordless drill, I bought my first drill, variable speed reversible corded black and decker in 1976 when I was 22. Fast forward to 2019, it finally quit working. So I was looking to replace it. We already had a Hitachi cordless drill, but it had nicad batteries, and although it served it’s purpose through the years, I presume we all know the disadvantages of that type.
I discovered the Black & Decker was broke because I needed to drill a hole in the front door for a deadbolt. I could not find many corded drills, And especially ones with clutch settings. The Hitachi just did not have enough power to drill the hole as fast I would’ve liked. I found a Ryobi and used that with the hole saw. Then I found a black and decker matrix with the clutch. So now I had 2 corded drills with plenty of power.
Then I discovered the lithium ion powered tools. Since I already had two standard drills with plenty of power, I bought my first Milwaukee tool, the right angle M12. I first used it to drill two holes in two closet doors. The right angle feature was not required in this case. But I have four cabinets where I had to change the hinges and the right angle drill came in quite handy. I also like the key-less Chuck. When tightening a drillbit it just feels solid. I have had no problem with the depth with the bits I have used. Battery life with 2.0’s have been just fine for my purposes, because on any given day I may only need to drill six holes.The bigger M12s do add a little more weight, but I consider it negligible.
Therefore I use this in place of my Ryobi and black and decker corded drill’s a lot. I do wish however that the RPMs would be a little faster but it still gets the job done.
Mine does also have that delay-momentary start up, but only at settings 1, 2 and 3... it disappears at all higher settings. I estimate the delay to be an “entire quarter of a second” to ramp up to max speed. It shuts off immediately.
BTW I did like the vIdeo.
Went into a snap on truck yesterday the guy did not like it when after he says we offer a service I looked at the drill and said does the battery have a warranty? No. Does the drill have a warranty? No so what service is there with it? Haha
I have the snap on exdl10, oem 45467 and the neiko 01923a sets and they are all identical, snap on does not make all their tools sometimes they rebrand, I also have the snap on shcp1a hose clamp tool and the mayhew 28680 hose clamp tool and the both are identical down to the makers marks.
I bought an MG725 on Facebook marketplace for $100 to replace my Earthquake XT and when I saw a PT850 for $150 I jumped on that like white on rice used it a few times turned out it's crap and brought my 725 back from home
Agreed I have sold so much on ebay that I don't use anymore FYI can't hardly sell used mac
I work on my own car occasionally, so when I'm buying a new tool, it's cause I have to have it for the job - impact gun, impact sockets, breaker bars, etc. It's hard to regret buying a tool when you have to have it to finish the job.
Those auto brake bleeders from AutoZone - about the only tool I regret buying. HA! some clear tubing and a water bottle do the job better.
Rivnut installer, just chop the handles down. Remove the rubber handle, chop it down and put the rubber handle back on. Reducing the size
Must say I absolutely love my 1442 rivnut setter, but I work mainly on heavy duty trucks, so I have a lot more room to use it most of the time...howdy to you from a mechanic from Dayton!