@@orishaphotos481 yep ... and I still think I'm about twenty six .... strange thing is that riding bikes seems to slow down the aging process .... that's my story and I'm sticking to it ...
+Colin Morgan (Trickshot72) What's wrong with offering both? And why is it the manufacturer's responsibility? If you are doing something that has higher risk than other pursuits, it is your own responsibility to make sure you're doing it safely.
Ziggy Sheppard I didn't say it is the manufacturers responsibility, but if they have enough interest in rider safety to offer ABS, then why not offer training, as this would prevent more crashes. Prevention being better than cure.
To address everyone's comments Money is the the excuse or answer. Being smart is. The first thing most riders do after buying there bike is spend more money on modifications on making the bike go faster instead of spending half of that on making them ride better. If most people put the money into riding schools or advanced riding courses than you will increase your skill, become a safer rider, and actually lower your insurance rates.
Ian Davies he’s amazing. First off a really nice guy and clear instruction. I watched the unemployable documentary and I swear his story was fucking heart breaking. But it taught me a lot about adversity and strength of character. His legacy is teaching.
I saw that and it was a tear jerker, I was shocked how the racing world had dropped him even though he still has so much to give and wants to work, he is a top bloke.
@@aliray1165 Il certainly look this up. iv issues sometimes where i lock up on handlebars, my hand having all the weight on a downward turn...halfway thru the vid and hes pointed out the obvious mistake im makin...great stuff.
I watched this video years ago when I had my harley but after buying my 300 remembering his advice has made me very confident and fast when cornering his advise could save so many people with bigger bikes that are afraid of leaning or have run off the road or fell over while turning due to bad form
ive taken so many falls on the mini track of my hobby racing (50cc) been asking a lot about cornering with no clear explanation. I know that you guys are talking totally different class of heavy bikes, but what a nice principles explained!
I'm gonna try that. I was riding in some very strong cross wind gusts and had to keep very light on the bars and hold myself in place with my knees on the tank just to maintain control. If you're stiff-armed the wind moves your upper body and causes steering inputs you don't want. Same basic idea.
Free play in this discussion means the ability of the throttle to rotate for and aft without altering the power. My original throttle was without any freeplay. I read you can losen the throttle cable to provide 3/32" or 1/4" free play to eliminate bump induced abrupt throttle changes. I tried this while riding on the bumpy back roads of Long Island I was able to ride without the engine abruptly changing speed every time I hit a rough bump. This enhanced my control over the motorcycle.
@James Sowin - Leaning while up against the tank usually happens just before, during and after hard braking into a slow corner. In contrast, leaning while back in the seat (away from tank) is usually done in fast corners when little or no braking is needed. We don't want to be too far back in the seat under hard braking into a slow corner, this may result in a front end low side because the front end of the bike may not be under enough load. The body up against the tank, in a hard braking slow corner, compresses the suspension and increases front tire mechanical grip because the body weight slightly flattens the front tire, thus increases the contact patch onto the pavement. The trade off is the bike will not steer very well during hard braking. As they say, nothing is free.
Exactly. I have ridden bigger bikes, but currently I am still on my YZF R125 (with a few mods). Its not all about blasting off in straight line with 1000cc's under your arse. 90MPH from a light and well balanced 125 is awesome fun plus its more than enough power for cornering and also a decent sized bike to learn how to develop my skills and be a decent rider. Some people are just show offs. And I've done 130. That's my max and was on an almost straight dual carriageway. Nothing to boast about.
yeah I'm serious there. You're homing your skills on the samller bike and this is the correct way to do it. You're postining yourself to really be able to handle these bikes. I started quite late you see so I jumped straight on the 600
This is a great tool... your weak points can be dissected in real time. But at the end of the day it all still depends on your ability to apply instructions.
Cool vid dude...thats a nice set-up they have there for a quick lesson on weight and body position. Need to check out some shows in the U.S. and see if they have a simulator like that.
Superbike School is REALLY good. They are a little pricey but definitely worth the money. You can also check for a national MC organization that has classes for your skill level and usually they are a little less pricey so they fill up fast. If you don't have the basics down you need a class. After a class you realize how little you know and want to take the next level class. It's so much fun. :) Cheers and good luck.
Yeah the tire size has a huge effect on your confidence when leaning. I started on a CBR 600RR and was confident of doing it within days. This isn't a reflection on me tho. It's a reflection on how well these modern bikes are built. I can almost gurantee that you'd feel the same if you had the 180/190 rear Due to riding a 125, If you brought a 600/750/1000cc bike now...you'd think it was easy to get your knee down mate
yes but when you twist the throttle from the closed position, you take up the slack in the cable before the intake actually opens. the free play comes from the fact that the throttle can be twisted without opening the intake. Since you want to use the word "throttle" for the control and not for the intake throttle, that actually blocks airflow to the engine
Just a matter of changing the hydraulics on that prototype to servo motors so that the transition is smoother, and have the dip directly related to how hard the rider turns. Probably a bit of tweaking in the programming of it as well.. Pretty cool though!
PS: I've been riding for about 10 years so I'm fairly experienced. I've owned various sports bikes and have been a courier in London. A few weeks ago I slipped on a cold tire. I was stupid and temporarily forgot how torqy my bike is. This is a simple mistake that I had made after all this time just beacuse of a lapse in concentration. It was literally 1/16th too much throttle and it cost me allot. It's not so bad for the 600 class.
It's designed to teach correct body position for cornering and braking (which it and the instructor do well IMHO), not how to actually corner and brake. The stability that comes from locking in with your knees and being light on the bars and properly positioned is fundamental to good control on track or street.
very informative.....will be trying this method to increase my confidence.... just I feel very unstable when cornering...I am 240 lbs......ride a zx9......propeer position will be key I imagine.......thanks
"go 55 mph on your r-1 and try to go left by pointing the front wheel to the left." Quite a few riders do just that, every time they ride, and get through corners just fine. The problem is when they try to take the same corner following behind a rider who countersteers properly. But it does seem to work as long as the rider obeys the posted speeds for turns.
@XxAtomic646xX Not sure if anyone has replied to your question as of yet, but, the rear brake on a sports bike is on the right side - somewhat like a lever, for the foot. You can only push it down in order to apply the brakes to the rear tire. The clutch is on the left side, also a little lever you either pull up, or push down.
moving back on the seat gives u better leverage at the knee, but not move too far as u want to be reaching the ridge of the tank as support for the knee If u are right close to the tank, u dont have leverage on ur knee, as u are squeezing with the inside tigh. spine in line with the bike, or even slightly to the inside
Its called counter steering. When u turn the bars to one side, u break the bikes balance, making it lean to the opposite side. After that, to hold your angle during the corner, u have to steer to the other side (point the wheel to the corner) and control your throttle. If you want to tight your turn, u have to steer to the outside of i, and vice-versa. Remembering that... all these movements are very delicated. In the video they are exagerated, A LOT.
My question: while braking before corner, should you sit one fist away from your tank or push yourself more to the rear part of the seat or have a contact with tank?
"acutally that's not quite true, ,you have two cables on a bike, one that opens the throttle and another that closes the throttle. To close the throttle you have to actually twist the throttle handle backwards. The free play is the difference between when the open-throttle cable starts to open the throttle-body (for lack of a better phrase) and when the close-throttle cable begins to close the throttle-body. So, even if you have the throttle halfway open say, the free-play still matters."
The easy way is to set the throttle with about 5mm (1/4") of free slack. So when you hit a bump the throttle does not change. position if your hand moves up or down.
PS: I know this guy at work the complete opposite to you. He rode a 13 Bhp Yam on a CBT125 when I started the company. He is a big strong dude so I let him have a little go on my litre in the car park. 6 weeks later this guy had his full license and went and brought an R6. He sais it's one of the best decisions he's made and this was why I let him have ago on my bike. Your insurance will come down but like you say...petrol isn't cheap. This is the one factor which sucks.
Actually it doesn't happen automatically. Gyroscopic action forces the wheel to turn in, not out, as you lean over into the turn. You do have to consciously countersteer to do it properly.
@Smurfacation im not sure if theres a video from that guy, but check out "a twist of the wrist 2" from keith code. Its very useful and youll learn a lot. A good way to help notice countersteer, is by riding without your left hand. When safe to do so, try turning your bike in either direction using only one hand, and youll notice that your pushing the opposite way. This helped me understand countersteering a bit more.
As you progressively apply your front brake it exponentially increases grip on the front wheel ,as you corner,the inertial force trying to fling you off the road transfers into pressure on the front hoop equalling more grip,unless you are sporting ABS it is your job as a biker to know the tolerances of your own bike,over braking on a bend can result in wash out of the front or partial washout resulting in a highside which flings you unceremoniously from your machine ;-)
No matter what you ride, how you ride, or how long you've been riding your supposed to not have a death grip on the bars and your weight shouldn't be on them. Don't have to go to a school to practice doing that, you can learn it on your own so long as you remember that you should be light on the bars when you ride.
@DonZaloog88 The clutch does not go up and down, the clutch is the lever which you pull in and out. The gears or transmission are what you click up and down :)
They cut off the point he was going to make about riding up on the tank...dammit really wanted to hear that info. Otherwise wonderful video. Thank you for posting!
"Believe me...1/16th of the throttle too much and you will whipe. Espeically when you start chipping these bikes." that's true with any bike of any power level
you'll be surprised about the amount of people that do not know what counter steering does lol practice it on a bike (pedal) to get the hang of it even though im a year late on this lol
Just as the natural inclination is to let the bike drop down below you, not to get below the bike. If good technique happened "automatically" and "naturally" then you wouldn't have so many people wrecking their bikes in turns.
Too bad the recording stops at that point where he's sitting to the front in the corner. Was curious about his findings about this position.I now realise that I'm always sitting close to the tank when seeing this video. It just feels comfortable since I can let go sme pressure on my arms and ellbows this way. Or even bend them slightly.
@daonendonli look at the way he stretch his arms holding the handlebars, that's the way to break your elbows in a sudden stop... i think he rides a motorcycle though, but those of 100-150ccs
@evosmybitch very true, and also the motion is really jerky and does nothing to simulate the act of tipping into a corner. The fact that you are just dangling there and not actually going around a corner means that your weight force is straight down instead of inline with the bike. This makes it much harder to hold yourself in position, good workout for the leg muscles though!
After given further thought to your comment i must say that you're right. If a beginner with no experience on a bike starts thinking that he has to pull that hard on a handlebar to countersteer, then i hope i'm not there to see the results. But i thought that you were reffering to the average rider not noobies on 600cc's (wich i think is stupid enough already)...
I wonder if this works the same when I ride lying on my massive tank bag. I guess I'd still have to use more leg power to keep the weight off the bars in the corners when I shift off of it.
BTW when I wrote that "free play means the ability of the throttle to rotate fore and aft without affecting the power", to be sure this means it enables the throttle to move open or to close a little bit without actually changing the power, like when you hit a large bump. I was not implying that the throttle no longer works to alter the power when you delibertly wish to do so.
this could be done easily even with a mechanical linkage as long as you can select one out of a set of cams for the throttle takekup. Just like changing gears on a bicycle.
Your tires are plenty for your bike but it's allot easier the more rubber you have touching the surface. If you can get your knee down a bit on a 125 you'll find a bigger bike allot easier mate. This is where people go wrong. The bigger bikes are more stable thus they feeel easier to lean. Wheer they become scary lies with the torque (especially on the 1000). If you continue on your path then you''ll end up to be a very capable rider
@pacrat90 Now you confused me, LOL ^^ I think we're trying to say the same thing though. Brakes = Right Side of the bike :) Clutch/Gear shifting = Left Side of the bike :)
acutally that's not quite true, ,you have two cables on a bike, one that opens the throttle and another that closes the throttle. To close the throttle you have to actually twist the throttle handle backwards. The free play is the difference between when the open-throttle cable starts to open the throttle-body (for lack of a better phrase) and when the close-throttle cable begins to close the throttle-body. So, even if you have the throttle halfway open say, the free-play still matters.
@pacrat90 You do in fact pull it up [with your toes/foot] and push it downwards in the same fashion. I'm pretty sure I said "The clutch is on the left side" :)
You think the riding position changes at 250km/h for street as compared to a track? try stiff arming at those speeds, hit a corner, and stare at oncoming traffic, see where you end up.
there are a number of ways to easily reduce the throttle-response on a motorcycle, one of the easiest is to put a throttle cable take-up with a larger radius so that it takes a larger turn to open the throttle a given amount. For a fly by wire system this is very easy and many manufacturers have some electronic control that enables the rider to adjust the throttle sensitivity. Ultimately there's no real reason why a 250 has to be ridden vs a 600. Zero. Other than ignorance.
Knee-downs scare me more than wheelies. But remember my tyres are only 130 width. Although its a racing bike used in the Malossi 125 Cup. And there's plenty of knee-down videos on the YZF. I just cant get that low. I daren't leave my seat. Haha. I might try lifting that arse cheek trick.
best eight mins of instruction ive seen , and ive been riding bikes for fourty years
Got dang! 40 years
@@orishaphotos481 yep ... and I still think I'm about twenty six .... strange thing is that riding bikes seems to slow down the aging process .... that's my story and I'm sticking to it ...
Instead of offering ABS and traction control, manufactures would prevent more crashes by offering free track day tutelage.
+Colin Morgan (Trickshot72) What's wrong with offering both? And why is it the manufacturer's responsibility? If you are doing something that has higher risk than other pursuits, it is your own responsibility to make sure you're doing it safely.
Ziggy Sheppard I didn't say it is the manufacturers responsibility, but if they have enough interest in rider safety to offer ABS, then why not offer training, as this would prevent more crashes. Prevention being better than cure.
....or pay for your own ongoing training????
MOney..... doesn't take a genius to figure that out.
To address everyone's comments Money is the the excuse or answer. Being smart is. The first thing most riders do after buying there bike is spend more money on modifications on making the bike go faster instead of spending half of that on making them ride better. If most people put the money into riding schools or advanced riding courses than you will increase your skill, become a safer rider, and actually lower your insurance rates.
I wish this video was longer, this makes a lot of sense! Hopefully it gets warmer soon so i can practice
So sad Andy Ibbot had that massive stroke. I hope he recovers enough one day to continue teaching. He is the master!
Ian Davies he’s amazing. First off a really nice guy and clear instruction. I watched the unemployable documentary and I swear his story was fucking heart breaking. But it taught me a lot about adversity and strength of character. His legacy is teaching.
I saw that and it was a tear jerker, I was shocked how the racing world had dropped him even though he still has so much to give and wants to work, he is a top bloke.
@@aliray1165 I tried to Google for that documentary and I can't find anything do you have a link
jesse2006 it’s very new, possibly a bbc documentary
@@aliray1165 Il certainly look this up. iv issues sometimes where i lock up on handlebars, my hand having all the weight on a downward turn...halfway thru the vid and hes pointed out the obvious mistake im makin...great stuff.
I watched this video years ago when I had my harley but after buying my 300 remembering his advice has made me very confident and fast when cornering his advise could save so many people with bigger bikes that are afraid of leaning or have run off the road or fell over while turning due to bad form
Cant wait to try this tomorrow i do realise that when im pushing on the handle bars my hands and wrists get sore even numb.
Some of the best information I've seen yet, and I love the teaching style with the mock up bike.
This is one off the first thing we learn in Norway when we take the license!
ive taken so many falls on the mini track of my hobby racing (50cc)
been asking a lot about cornering with no clear explanation.
I know that you guys are talking totally different class of heavy bikes, but what a nice principles explained!
I'm gonna try that. I was riding in some very strong cross wind gusts and had to keep very light on the bars and hold myself in place with my knees on the tank just to maintain control. If you're stiff-armed the wind moves your upper body and causes steering inputs you don't want. Same basic idea.
That makes sense
These tips completely changed my riding style
Have you noticed much difference in the corners ?
Free play in this discussion means the ability of the throttle to rotate for and aft without altering the power.
My original throttle was without any freeplay. I read you can losen the throttle cable to provide 3/32" or 1/4" free play to eliminate bump induced abrupt throttle changes. I tried this while riding on the bumpy back roads of Long Island I was able to ride without the engine abruptly changing speed every time I hit a rough bump. This enhanced my control over the motorcycle.
well tomorrow's commute will be interesting...
Really interesting, thanks.
Now if only this rain would clear up I can head off tomorrow morning to practice that!!
Such great information for those who don't know how to position themselves correctly. I would advise taking his class.
Hey i was watching that . ..............cut-off
Andy smith Yah rude. I want to know the difference between leaning while up against the tank, and leaning while your slid away from the tank.
+James Sowin Watch "Twist of the Wrist" by Keith Code. It is brilliant, you will learn so much in one hour.
@James Sowin - Leaning while up against the tank usually happens just before, during and after hard braking into a slow corner. In contrast, leaning while back in the seat (away from tank) is usually done in fast corners when little or no braking is needed. We don't want to be too far back in the seat under hard braking into a slow corner, this may result in a front end low side because the front end of the bike may not be under enough load. The body up against the tank, in a hard braking slow corner, compresses the suspension and increases front tire mechanical grip because the body weight slightly flattens the front tire, thus increases the contact patch onto the pavement. The trade off is the bike will not steer very well during hard braking. As they say, nothing is free.
Exactly. I have ridden bigger bikes, but currently I am still on my YZF R125 (with a few mods). Its not all about blasting off in straight line with 1000cc's under your arse. 90MPH from a light and well balanced 125 is awesome fun plus its more than enough power for cornering and also a decent sized bike to learn how to develop my skills and be a decent rider. Some people are just show offs. And I've done 130. That's my max and was on an almost straight dual carriageway. Nothing to boast about.
yeah I'm serious there. You're homing your skills on the samller bike and this is the correct way to do it. You're postining yourself to really be able to handle these bikes.
I started quite late you see so I jumped straight on the 600
nice video, too bad there isn't part two, i learned a few things from this. thanks for sharing :)
This is a great tool... your weak points can be dissected in real time. But at the end of the day it all still depends on your ability to apply instructions.
Very informative. Love the canyons here in Southern California. Thank you for this video.
Amazing quick explanation,thanks so much for posting. I am definitely going to the California Superbike School next year!
Awesome video. Put a lot of things in perspective for me!
Cool vid dude...thats a nice set-up they have there for a quick lesson on weight and body position. Need to check out some shows in the U.S. and see if they have a simulator like that.
so why you stop filming? isn't done yet!
Dave Benson i ran out of film
Really good instruction.
Superbike School is REALLY good. They are a little pricey but definitely worth the money. You can also check for a national MC organization that has classes for your skill level and usually they are a little less pricey so they fill up fast. If you don't have the basics down you need a class. After a class you realize how little you know and want to take the next level class. It's so much fun. :) Cheers and good luck.
And the lights come on, brilliant!
Guy : so, what do you normally ride?
Me : your mom.
Guy : hmm, a pure blood rider.
Yeah the tire size has a huge effect on your confidence when leaning. I started on a CBR 600RR and was confident of doing it within days.
This isn't a reflection on me tho. It's a reflection on how well these modern bikes are built. I can almost gurantee that you'd feel the same if you had the 180/190 rear
Due to riding a 125, If you brought a 600/750/1000cc bike now...you'd think it was easy to get your knee down mate
yes but when you twist the throttle from the closed position, you take up the slack in the cable before the intake actually opens. the free play comes from the fact that the throttle can be twisted without opening the intake. Since you want to use the word "throttle" for the control and not for the intake throttle, that actually blocks airflow to the engine
Just a matter of changing the hydraulics on that prototype to servo motors so that the transition is smoother, and have the dip directly related to how hard the rider turns. Probably a bit of tweaking in the programming of it as well.. Pretty cool though!
PS: I've been riding for about 10 years so I'm fairly experienced. I've owned various sports bikes and have been a courier in London. A few weeks ago I slipped on a cold tire. I was stupid and temporarily forgot how torqy my bike is. This is a simple mistake that I had made after all this time just beacuse of a lapse in concentration.
It was literally 1/16th too much throttle and it cost me allot.
It's not so bad for the 600 class.
It's designed to teach correct body position for cornering and braking (which it and the instructor do well IMHO), not how to actually corner and brake. The stability that comes from locking in with your knees and being light on the bars and properly positioned is fundamental to good control on track or street.
very informative.....will be trying this method to increase my confidence.... just I feel very unstable when cornering...I am 240 lbs......ride a zx9......propeer position will be key I imagine.......thanks
I was so into this video, I wished it was recorded longer 😢
Excellent instructor!
"go 55 mph on your r-1 and try to go left by pointing the front wheel to the left."
Quite a few riders do just that, every time they ride, and get through corners just fine.
The problem is when they try to take the same corner following behind a rider who countersteers properly. But it does seem to work as long as the rider obeys the posted speeds for turns.
@XxAtomic646xX
Not sure if anyone has replied to your question as of yet, but, the rear brake on a sports bike is on the right side - somewhat like a lever, for the foot. You can only push it down in order to apply the brakes to the rear tire.
The clutch is on the left side, also a little lever you either pull up, or push down.
moving back on the seat gives u better leverage at the knee, but not move too far as u want to be reaching the ridge of the tank as support for the knee
If u are right close to the tank, u dont have leverage on ur knee, as u are squeezing with the inside tigh.
spine in line with the bike, or even slightly to the inside
Its called counter steering.
When u turn the bars to one side, u break the bikes balance, making it lean to the opposite side.
After that, to hold your angle during the corner, u have to steer to the other side (point the wheel to the corner) and control your throttle.
If you want to tight your turn, u have to steer to the outside of i, and vice-versa.
Remembering that... all these movements are very delicated. In the video they are exagerated, A LOT.
My question: while braking before corner, should you sit one fist away from your tank or push yourself more to the rear part of the seat or have a contact with tank?
"acutally that's not quite true, ,you have two cables on a bike, one that opens the throttle and another that closes the throttle. To close the throttle you have to actually twist the throttle handle backwards. The free play is the difference between when the open-throttle cable starts to open the throttle-body (for lack of a better phrase) and when the close-throttle cable begins to close the throttle-body. So, even if you have the throttle halfway open say, the free-play still matters."
The easy way is to set the throttle with about 5mm (1/4") of free slack. So when you hit a bump the throttle does not change. position if your hand moves up or down.
Excellent lesson!
PS: I know this guy at work the complete opposite to you. He rode a 13 Bhp Yam on a CBT125 when I started the company. He is a big strong dude so I let him have a little go on my litre in the car park. 6 weeks later this guy had his full license and went and brought an R6.
He sais it's one of the best decisions he's made and this was why I let him have ago on my bike.
Your insurance will come down but like you say...petrol isn't cheap. This is the one factor which sucks.
Actually it doesn't happen automatically.
Gyroscopic action forces the wheel to turn in, not out, as you lean over into the turn.
You do have to consciously countersteer to do it properly.
sad it wasnt complete.. but neverthless a nice video... thanks... and thumbs up for the trainer too...
@Smurfacation im not sure if theres a video from that guy, but check out "a twist of the wrist 2" from keith code. Its very useful and youll learn a lot.
A good way to help notice countersteer, is by riding without your left hand. When safe to do so, try turning your bike in either direction using only one hand, and youll notice that your pushing the opposite way. This helped me understand countersteering a bit more.
As you progressively apply your front brake it exponentially increases grip on the front wheel ,as you corner,the inertial force trying to fling you off the road transfers into pressure on the front hoop equalling more grip,unless you are sporting ABS it is your job as a biker to know the tolerances of your own bike,over braking on a bend can result in wash out of the front or partial washout resulting in a highside which flings you unceremoniously from your machine ;-)
Trust me, Stoner and Doohan don't rely on countersteering without knowing what they are doing. You don't flick a bike via guesswork.
Andy ibbott, hero.
CSS level 1 for me this summer.
No matter what you ride, how you ride, or how long you've been riding your supposed to not have a death grip on the bars and your weight shouldn't be on them. Don't have to go to a school to practice doing that, you can learn it on your own so long as you remember that you should be light on the bars when you ride.
@DonZaloog88 The clutch does not go up and down, the clutch is the lever which you pull in and out. The gears or transmission are what you click up and down :)
They cut off the point he was going to make about riding up on the tank...dammit really wanted to hear that info. Otherwise wonderful video. Thank you for posting!
nice to see Andy Ibbot, he was trained by the corner master himself. Keith Code
looked like a cool trainner
"Believe me...1/16th of the throttle too much and you will whipe. Espeically when you start chipping these bikes."
that's true with any bike of any power level
There is no part 2 I'm afraid. It stop abruptly because the camera ran out of battery. Sorry.
you'll be surprised about the amount of people that do not know what counter steering does lol
practice it on a bike (pedal) to get the hang of it even though im a year late on this lol
Hate when people just walk in front of me when I'm recording! Nice video thank you...
Just as the natural inclination is to let the bike drop down below you, not to get below the bike. If good technique happened "automatically" and "naturally" then you wouldn't have so many people wrecking their bikes in turns.
Agree with Baker, good info and tips, also check out flick of the wrist great dvd series.
Too bad the recording stops at that point where he's sitting to the front in the corner. Was curious about his findings about this position.I now realise that I'm always sitting close to the tank when seeing this video. It just feels comfortable since I can let go sme pressure on my arms and ellbows this way. Or even bend them slightly.
Great vid, but where's part 2?
...indeed I prefer the elbow-low method.
Shoulder, even.
The higher the body-part the better.
very intresting gave me more confidence
I want one of those bikes for my living room
Instructors fantastic
i don't know how i got to this , but I'm glad i did. Is there any other videos of from this school?
@daonendonli look at the way he stretch his arms holding the handlebars, that's the way to break your elbows in a sudden stop... i think he rides a motorcycle though, but those of 100-150ccs
That was really interesting thanks for posting it
nice, got to learn a few new things
@evosmybitch very true, and also the motion is really jerky and does nothing to simulate the act of tipping into a corner. The fact that you are just dangling there and not actually going around a corner means that your weight force is straight down instead of inline with the bike. This makes it much harder to hold yourself in position, good workout for the leg muscles though!
Cali Superbike School is amazing. He forgot to tell this guy to keep his elbows bent.
i've been sitting right up against the tank going to give this a go
What a great video! Too bad it's not the full version or had better angles..
Excellent!!!
I want to go to school.
He's a good teacher not gonna lie
Great information!
Awesome video
that's true but only if you have opened the throttle less than the free play in the cable
After given further thought to your comment i must say that you're right. If a beginner with no experience on a bike starts thinking that he has to pull that hard on a handlebar to countersteer, then i hope i'm not there to see the results. But i thought that you were reffering to the average rider not noobies on 600cc's (wich i think is stupid enough already)...
I wonder if this works the same when I ride lying on my massive tank bag. I guess I'd still have to use more leg power to keep the weight off the bars in the corners when I shift off of it.
BTW when I wrote that "free play means the ability of the throttle to rotate fore and aft without affecting the power", to be sure this means it enables the throttle to move open or to close a little bit without actually changing the power, like when you hit a large bump. I was not implying that the throttle no longer works to alter the power when you delibertly wish to do so.
wow this was extremely helpful! thanks
this could be done easily even with a mechanical linkage as long as you can select one out of a set of cams for the throttle takekup. Just like changing gears on a bicycle.
Your tires are plenty for your bike but it's allot easier the more rubber you have touching the surface. If you can get your knee down a bit on a 125 you'll find a bigger bike allot easier mate.
This is where people go wrong. The bigger bikes are more stable thus they feeel easier to lean. Wheer they become scary lies with the torque (especially on the 1000).
If you continue on your path then you''ll end up to be a very capable rider
i dont think explaining counter steering will affect any rider considering counter sterring is a natural reaction
@pacrat90 Now you confused me, LOL ^^
I think we're trying to say the same thing though.
Brakes = Right Side of the bike :)
Clutch/Gear shifting = Left Side of the bike :)
acutally that's not quite true, ,you have two cables on a bike, one that opens the throttle and another that closes the throttle. To close the throttle you have to actually twist the throttle handle backwards. The free play is the difference between when the open-throttle cable starts to open the throttle-body (for lack of a better phrase) and when the close-throttle cable begins to close the throttle-body. So, even if you have the throttle halfway open say, the free-play still matters.
This is sooo kewl !!! THANK YOU !!!
@jojothedog1234 on a sportbike you usually push against the turn when cornering or pull on the opposite handle bar
even better with tank grips/traction pads
@pacrat90 You do in fact pull it up [with your toes/foot] and push it downwards in the same fashion. I'm pretty sure I said "The clutch is on the left side" :)
You think the riding position changes at 250km/h for street as compared to a track? try stiff arming at those speeds, hit a corner, and stare at oncoming traffic, see where you end up.
there are a number of ways to easily reduce the throttle-response on a motorcycle, one of the easiest is to put a throttle cable take-up with a larger radius so that it takes a larger turn to open the throttle a given amount. For a fly by wire system this is very easy and many manufacturers have some electronic control that enables the rider to adjust the throttle sensitivity.
Ultimately there's no real reason why a 250 has to be ridden vs a 600.
Zero.
Other than ignorance.
Forgot to mention the poster behind them with the riders knees out on both sides of the bike.... so much for hugging with the knees.
Knee-downs scare me more than wheelies.
But remember my tyres are only 130 width.
Although its a racing bike used in the Malossi 125 Cup.
And there's plenty of knee-down videos on the YZF.
I just cant get that low. I daren't leave my seat. Haha.
I might try lifting that arse cheek trick.
@XxAtomic646xX on a sport bike its the same....front brake is right hand and rear brake is right foot