FLOOD TEST! RedGard SPEEDCOAT
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- čas přidán 3. 03. 2019
- A demonstration build and flood test of Custom Building Products "SpeedSlope" mortar and "SpeedCoat" waterproofing membrane.
These two products were designed to allow for flood test or tile installation in 3 hours from start to finish.
My "real world" conditions consisted of a 2'x2' mockup using a kerdi-drain flange. The temperature in the building was about 70 degrees, and was kept at that temperature throughout the build.
The flood test was done for about 60 hrs.
Please share this video with someone who is struggling at their current job, or cannot find a job they like. I was in the same position 20 years ago, and became inspired by someone in the tile trade. I hope I can be that inspiration to someone else.
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Find me on instagram @tilecoach. - Zábava
This is a very smart way to test the manufacturers recommendations. In your shop and not at a customer's house. The Lessons Learned here are invaluable. I think a lot of people miss the point of this video.
SPOT ON AND WELL SAID!
Not manufacture recommendation to apply red guard to wet mud with no seem tape lol
I like the fact that you tested the products on a mock-up instead of someone shower. Great video 👍
When I started installing tile almost 40 years ago, there were no liquid membranes. Hell...there was no Schluter, Durock or multi purpose thinsets either. The early shower pans here in Michigan were made of lead or sheet copper, with the seams soldered. This was before pvc shower pan liners came out in the 70s. I was taught old school wet mud where we'd use lime, portland and sharp sand and a rib lath scratch coat. When that dried we'd mud up and square and level the walls by pulling vertical screeds using straight edges and a hawk and trowel. Baking soda was always used to speed and dry things up to allow for smoothing with a wood float. The final mud coat was usually 3/4" to an inch thick, depending on how out of level things were.
Today I'll use a pre mud and pvc liner, then mud my final floor and when that is dry I'll red guard over that. Double protected that way! I've also learned over the years to silicone both top and bottom on the adjustable drain flanges where it meets the liner. I'll then clean the weep holes with a finish nail. This step is very important as to rely on that liner/flange gasket is asking for problems. I've seen many showers leak from that connection!
Nice work...I enjoy watching your videos and learning all the new methods!
This is the best way. Im still doing demos on bathrooms built 30-50 years ago that are more solid than all this expensive lesser tier gimmick stuff. Cost is a big thing in this line of business. These companies are just trying to make more off our work.
Timing is everything..
Plus the fact you always have 2-3 jobs going at once to have to keep moving forward in order to shower installs.
Timing is everything.
I had a drop ceiling job in a kitchen below a second floor bathroom that was failing after 50 years or so. Some of the wood blocking was rotted and big chunks of mortar that could kill some one below were coming loose and had to be lowered to the floor below became part of the ceiling job! Man that bathroom above was built like a brick shit house!
70's were 50 years ago, not 40.
@@kceros welp. I was born in 66 and im 54 so...
When I did my old school PVC lined shower build I was not in any hurry.For a DYI'er the good 'ol Redgard is great. My bed set for at least a week and then my 3 coats of Regard, walls and floor, another week. No prob. But for the contractor on a schedule I could see where this product is of concern. Great vid!
I have been using the regular Redguard for my shower pans. I use the Laticrete 6" water proofing membrane on all the seams and use the the Laticrete 9235 sheet goods for the pan itself with 2 16"x16" approx. pieces over the drain to give the drain something substantial to clamp down on. I have found that thin coats work best especially where I'm using the fabric as it won't dry at all and becomes ineffective behind the fabric if I use too much. I float my slope in mortar the day before so that it is good and dry before applying the Redguard. This method works well but like so many have mentioned the Redguard does not dry very fast and takes a lot of time. Sometimes I even use a heat gun to help speed up the process. Thanks for the all your videos, as a tile setter for over 40 years I'm still learning!
Patience is a virtue, especially with an installation where you want quality.
I appreciate your make it work attitude even when it doesn’t always work out and you have to start over
So glad you showed this video because it makes a difference for a layperson like me to see how it works.
You're the best guy on CZcams for this information, thanks for all the hard work, much appreciated.
Thank You for your patience during the testing.Watched a lot of your videos and because I like new products but I have to tell you , the more new products, the more confusing.
Isaac bro, as you know I've never held back when it comes to critique, and the same when it comes to appropriate praise. This video gives me an all new level of respect for your workmanship, and determination to construct a superior product for your clients. Great job not only trying new ways to make installations more efficient, but kudos too for actually being skeptical of the methods you were "told" would be ok. Whether this particular system works for you or not, I have confidence that you are becoming a much more honed craftsman as you continue to gain experience. Well done my friend!
Also, the original "redguard" should have been named "pinkguard" for obvious reasons. Haha. I'm now looking forward to testing the speed-coat version as soon as possible :)
I've done 12 bathroom renovations all using REDGARD and have had no problems!
That you know of. A slow leak can be causing massive problems that just aren't visible yet.
cool! Redgard definitely has its own place, it drys much faster in hot temperature, plus you can manage your time so that you apply it by end of the day and let it dry overnight. especially for people who have budget limits, it will be nicer to provide a decent option.
Budget really shouldn't matter. If the customer wants cement board with water proofing over the top they are paying more in labor than if I just use kerdi board or goboard. The cost for a sheet membrane on a typical shower floor only is roughly 20 to 25 bucks with banding. Pinching pennies where it counts the most will end up pinching you back. When it's all said and done, your customer will still hold you liable even if you let them control your product budget if something goes wrong.
Excellent video, and I'm glad to see you test products before using them in real world situations
I had a whole bath tearout and redo. The old tile was cracked up all over the place. This house set right across from Purdue basketball arena. It had this up stairs bathroom had a crack from the wall all the way across the bath floor into the shower. I looked at the house down stairs and found a crack in the front bedroom wall facing the street. As I was standing there a large truck drove by and the house shook when it did. This crack went all the way into the street. I tore out the bathroom and shower; installed cement board on the walls and floated the floor and mudded the shower walls and floor. I then coated everything redguard; four coats. Not one tile has cracked in 12 years. I've been back to repair another bath since. 42 years Journeyman
Dude! Been tile and stone installer for over 20 yrs. Your vids are best online.
Noticed your miluakee pocket light. Little $20 tool is one of my most used tools. Handy as frig
I take things like dry time with a grain of salt. But Isaac is doing a good thing by showing how manufacturers claims can be BS sometimes.
Kevr, take into consideration that he poured the paint onto uncured cement and likely the first coat was at least 10 times thicker than manufacture recommendations. This is not the proper way to form a waterproof membrane using this product, I can assure you that. this is workmanship fault as usual.
Like a bag of 20 minute cement I was using on a counter top. It dried to much to be workable in about 5 minutes. Or some thinset I used, claimed 4 hour working time, dried too much to use in about 1 hour.
It's like 45 minute drywall mud. If you put it on thick enough it will still be wet the next day.
He clearly knew this probably wasn't going to be dry enough, but he is going by the manufacturers recommendation.
I always appreciate your videos. I see a lot of comments, and have to agree with some of them. The speed slope said one or two hours, you should have waited the full 2 hours. Were those the dregs from an old bag? Had they been sitting around? That would explain the slowness of curing. That stuff usually kicks off way too fast, not too slow.
As far as the Redguard, had your base been solid, and you could have rolled it on like normal, you might have gotten different results. Hard to say. Either way, it was very interesting to watch, and it didn't cost me a thing!.
Thanks for putting in all that effort to make this video to help others. Two thumbs up!
Not sure why your videos did not come up before. Glad I found your channel! Thanks for the knowledge shared. Keep it up!
That’s a great looking floor pan! Nice work.
Mapei Aqua defense great product and way less odor!
Thanks for another informative video. Take care. Doug
With a little bit of planning, I usually don't have a problem scheduling any waterproofing to be done last thing in the day. I can see the use of this product but I'm not going to rush the waterproofing or any other critical part. Thanks for making this video.
Kudos to you, Sir. Very nice videos and my compliments on your calm, deliberate delivery style.
Thanks Coach. I appreciate the videos and learned a lot.
I own my on tile business and I have been watching pretty much all of your videos on this waterproof stuff and i would like to see you do this same setup using normal red guard with a roller like everyone who uses this stuff and apply it like a normal person and not read all of the Instructions lol and please keep making videos they are great
I used Redgard and I had to re do the pan .
I like the fact you gotta wait a day that's the beauty of being a tile guy having to wait to let things dry and go home , who wants to slave 10 hours a day doing tiles Been there done that and I'm not any richer
Fuckin right
hahahaha...I was thinkin the same thing...
Mixing two products like schluter and custom, not very good idea.
i was feeling like a pos compared to this guy for sharing that sentiment
Do one job then as it dries.. go to the next.
I use 6"wide fleece fabric with redguard often. I paint some on, apply the fabric, press it in, paint over it. Then give it another coat or two. Never too thick or it will crack and fail. Love your vids. Just sharing "my" method.
I let each coat get nearly dry or dry, then apply another coat. To be clear.
Great demonstration. Trial and error front and center. New subscriber. Looking forward to seeing more of your work.
Man i have learned so much from watching your videos. Thank you for making them.
A very good demo. Thank you.
ALWAYS use a fan with Redguard, the original or speedcoat just put a scrappy old oscillating in the room and it reduces drying time drastically
Cool nice test 👍
Smooth stuff! Trying it on our build
I use aquamaster from litokol.
Say all you want but liquid waterproofing is the way forward. It comes from the pool industry.
In Europe we used kerdi for decenia. Now i start to see other proffesionals switch over.
I cant wait to see bob doyles nee and improved redguard water test lol good video now just waiting on the para trooper
I’m asking me. How in the heck he is wearing a sweater in a 75 degree room???🥵
hes not overweight
It's how we roll in the Midwest
1-2 hours at %0 humidity. 4-6 hours at %35 12-18 hours at %100
Amazing. Thank you.
RedGard marketing meeting: "We aren't selling enough of this shit!"... "I've got it! Just double the recommended application rate!"
Hey, great work! Thanks for the time you take to make this videos, specially late on a Friday.. I'm new to the Chanel and so far I already watched like 20!! Very instructive...
Thank you good job keeping doing videos I followed
Bro I like your videos because it is can happen to any body, thanks for sharing
Good stuff!
You'll probably laugh but i use quickcrete for my dry pack.
But I'll stick to my pvc liners i know they last 25 years or more.
My dad did a hot tub/shower in 81 with pvc liner and we tore the floor out in 2016 to remodel the outdated tiles, bone dry underneath.
I've used triple flex that was a failure.
I've done kerdi before without failure going on 3-5 years or so.
I do use red gaurd on my curbs and niches but i tape and mud then let dry first.
It's honestly overkill in my eyes but i think that some of these new waterproofing products work well with the old school methods but stand alone I'm not convinced as of yet.
Good videos, keep em coming.
nice work!!!!
I have used red gaurd for over 20 years and love it, I use cement board then coa
t all joints with red gaurd, then caulk any big cracks in corners apply spray adhesive on joints then mesh tape, then I put about 4 coats of red gaurd on all joints and corners until there's are no mesh holes anywhere, and apply two coats over all walls, works great.
I am doing research and will do a DIY on my bathroom floor. Cement board and red guard. Can you say what kind of caulk you use or recommend in this process for the corners and what spray adhesiv are you referring to? Thank you in advance.
@@nallis01 I use a good 100 percent silicone and 3M corner Bead 61 adhesive purple can with black lid awesome adhesive, Home Depot drywall supply area.
@@jamesf4244 thanks fornthe prompt response. Screenshot it for further research and application. Much respect
@@nallis01 try the laticrete 6in fabric for corners and changes of plane. Just did my shower today and used it. Worked great and definitely better than mesh tape imo because it was made to be used with liquid waterproof membranes
Isaac, thank you for doing the testing of these waterproofing membranes and like products . Very informative videos. Subscribed and liked.
I do want to point out your use of the wet film gauge though. From the video it appears all the tips of the gauge had redgard on it including the 6mil and you said “it’s almost there”. Presumably saying you thought it’s suppose to show paint to the top of the cut out.
It’s the tips of the gauge that step up from lowest to highest. So, for your viewers watching once you apply the membrane check in 3 or more areas to get an average thickness and look at the very tip of the “teeth” and the last tooth that got dipped is your thickness. If your supplier don’t carry gauges You can get a wet film gauge for free at Sherwin Williams .
Keep up the good work bro!
Great video. PVC liner with a sloped mud bed is the best way to build a shower pan. IMO. These new products are for the unskilled tile guy who can't build a properly sloped, waterproof mud bed. And setting tile on Red Guard, is risky business. But easy to tear out. Ha
Great video
Hahaha you had one hand firmly holding the flange down when pulling the plug 😂
I usually like your videos but this was a little frustrating to watch. Even attempting to put on redguard when the speed slope was still damp was ill advised. I understand that you did it in order to test the cure time but as soon as you put the roller on it should have been very clear that it needed to cure more. Then instead of just letting it cure more you slather on way too much red guard with a trowel. So in the end we don't get a real world test of the cure time for the speed slope OR the red guard.
Rob Gibson
Valid point /other folks saying similar. I’m a pro you’re a pro we’d never do this but what about new guys trusting instructions? I’d respectfully argue that it is a fair & useful test.
It confirms: to Never membrane a damp dry pack for one (never have or would but was curious)
Be wary of “alleged” dry times for fast-dry products in general. Trust your instincts
Grain of salt Custom product’s claims: decent stuff mostly but I get the feeling their marketing ppl have got their greedy fingers into some of their technical specs.
Instructions (dry times etc) should be overkill & worst-case scenario, not some optimistic pie in the sky bs. This calls out a big brand Imo it’s a public service. My 2¢
Good comment. 32 year contractor here. I use fabric and membrane to entire pan and I do a preslope. Or I use vinyl liner.
You can’t put any membrane on a damp bed and he put it on way too thick no wonder it’s still tacky.
If mortar was dry he could have burned it in and it wouldn’t peel like that. It peeled cause it was damp. No bond.
Let the mud bed dry overnight. All these rapid set products are dangerous in the hands of homeowners or impatient mechanics. Stick to the regular deck mud and let it dry 24 hours before coating.
I recommend aqua defence with fabric
Good shows. Thanks !
Love the vids. I have a question for you - I am doing a steam shower in a house. I usually use redgaurd for showers. What do you recommend for a membrane on a home use steam shower? Red Guard or Kerdi membrane? Thanks!
Same here. Mud. Bonded drain. Sheet covering entire bed. Then all 8+9. There is something that's a lot more reassuring about 8+9 than elastomeric liquid waterproofers. Fine with them for tub surrounds but not pans.
I have had good luck with Speed slope....mostly use for my pre-slopes when building custom pans, but have also used it for my curbs (so I could pull my forms and pour my pan right up to the curb), and also on a commercial project where we had to create some sloped entry ramps and then install the tile that afternoon...I can't think of a use for the speed coat on any of my projects....Thanks for the video!
im using an old air fan to dry the first layer faster, usually i leave second layer overnight to dry, with air fan, dont put it too close to blow air directly on it, just to keep the air mooving
Love your videos very informative! How would you water proof a shower if time, and cost wasn’t a concern and the only measure was how long it would last? How many layers of water proofing would you do? I’ve been placing pvc pans under my kerdi membrane but thinking of also using red guard on top? Any thoughts?
For speed, go with rapidset mortar (csa based cement). Sets in about 15 minutes, can be shorter or longer depending on environment and admixtures.
Hi I’m Refaat from iTile Melbourne (Australia), like your videos
I get you're following manufacturer directions. It would be good if you could wait for things to dry... because if it's one thing DIYers have, it's time. Plus it takes much longer for DIYers to do things.
I think the moral of the story is don’t follow the manufacturer’s directions 😂
@@TileCoach Make sure to follow measurements from the manufacturer on water quantity. Fast setting materials usually need enough water to activate the setting agent fully. Happens with fast set drywall sometimes. Not enough water and it takes way longer to cure than it should.
You must have gone over the same place 20 times. Lol.
I think difference is that it was not under load as you will have your regular shower during the everyday use, that can cause it to flex and crack on corners over time. Great video for illustration.
I’ve got regard on the shower floor, and I’m ready to install the 1-1/4” hex tile.
What type of thinset should I use for my
Application?
The fabric on the bonding flange is intended to have cement over it in order for the fleece to be impregnated
What he said
you realize he was testing the Speedslope and Speedcoat right? not the schluter drain.
redgard is awesome if done right
i'm a tile guy also and i never rush on my installations even using fast setting materials i always wait for the next day to do any work and it work out very well for me but many guys do the same thing on a different ways .. my point is what works for me may not work for you and vice-versa ...
Air temp, relative humidity, moisture content of mud bed; a bunch of variables to optimize after trial and error. As an experienced painter, renovator, and restoration specialist I have always observed the multiple-coat approach for almost any coating. Liquid elastomers were always tricky, and so dependent upon conditions at time of applications. The only way to speed cure at room temp without resorting to VOC’s is to use alcohols as carriers.
Great review Mr.O. I think the manufacturer directions needs a little improvement 😂🤙🏽
I think it's made to be self leveling insuring your application is plume.. Also, I was impressed with it's waterproofing capabilities..
I still like backer board and red gard better than foam and mud
Done it both ways
Great video issac
Would you mind doing a test like this with schluter kirty and using red band or a similar product to cover the seam areas.
Hey Isaac! Love your videos homie, I’ve learned a lot from you! I’m a renovator in Nashville TN, mostly doing bathrooms right now. I was curious about redgarding the shower pan. I know this is just a product test video but do you ever actually put redgard on the shower pan? I never do because I’ve seen a lot of guys warning about the “mold sandwich”
Wanted to get your opinion!
You are going to make Mr red guard upset,🤣
Good video
Hey Isaac! I'be been binging your videos lately and I love them. Great workmanship on the jobs and with the videos.
I wanted to point out that at 20:49 you used the word "viscous" to mean the opposite of what you meant. I don't know if it was a slip up or if you have it backwards in you head (like I did for many years). I could never keep the terms high/low viscosity separate until I started saying to myself "viscosity is a measure of 'thickness' ". For example honey is more viscous than water.
I hope I'm not coming across a dick for pointing that out. Keep up the great work man!
Neil Wiens no, he had that right. He was describing the speed coating being looser than red guard. It’s more viscous than normal red guard.
Hope you had a nice weekend off , mate your impatient ,you need to let things set up.
I usually use fast dry mortar mix, it dries to full cure in about 10 minutes, and if you apply red guard really thick with a roller it only takes 30 minutes or so if you put a fan on it.
Roll it on!
You can't roll on a panliner. Must trowel at least 3/16 thickness to pass code. Roller doesn't apply as thick. Read the Redguard instructions, please!
I've probably done about 100 divot showers in the past, when I figured out using bonded flanges it was a life changer!
I still don’t know what the divot method is... there’s one video, but the guy doesn’t really explain what he’s doing.
@@MoneyManHolmes check my Instagram @customtileinstallation I have it on my page.
How well would the regular Redgard adhere to Schluter membrane? I may try a Frankenstein shower on my next job using a Schluter base, DensSheild walls and glue/seal it all up using Redgard to glue in my Kerdi band.
I swear by redguard too. Because it's cheaper than the German Schlueter system which cost like $500 Where RedGuard is about $150 for a 4.5 Gallon and $60 for a Gallon which is more than enough for a single shower. What I do is I Demo everything first day, set quick set concrete with fiberglass enforcement or I use Syrophome precast and than RedGuard 3 coats and apply them in an hour interval and let it sit over the night. So far it always works just fine.
LSE LLC (Lumanet Solar Energy LLC) do you still need a pan liner or just use red guard to water proof?
Don’t judge the redgard before you apply it correctly and over a bed that is ready for it. Thanks for making videos 😀
This product should not be sold for shower use for the simple fact that it is organic! Which is a food source for mold growth!!!
So this seemed kinda botched install and it still was watertight
hell ya botched from the time he used hot water in the slope.
Man I wish u had waited until was dried..We all see that the drying tike was off.Hence if u put regard on wet mud it's hard to tell it the result will be accurate..
Sweet.. at time out in the field things doesn’t always pens out as manufacturers stated .However we are required to make adjustments. So if I was to use those products and seeing drying time is off, I would have waited until it’s fully cured before moving on to the next step...Thanks for everything u doing man. Your are our chemist 👨🔬..lol
He's checking if the product works in unison with the info provided.
Turns out, no.😊
@@salotesua9480 Also keep in mind that his relayed info from manufacturer could be faulty- it wouldn't be the first time. If you noticed in the video, he said that he was "pretty sure" alcohol should remove the speedcoat from his hands, then quickly admitted that he wasn't sure about what its properties were, or whether or not his hunch that alcohol would work would turn out to be correct. IOW, he never read the instructions before starting, and in fact, he based his experiment completely on the "hearsay" from one sales rep- likely a new guy working behind the counter at Home Depot.
@@salotesua9480 Also, I highly doubt the sales rep would have told him to dump 1/4 gallon onto a 2 square foot area of wet/uncured cement, and spread with a mud knife. IOW, always read the instructions on the label, as Isaac obviously didn't take the time to do.
I’ve used all different kinds of speed set and also speed slope. I’ve noticed that they ALWAYS vary in cure times. I’ve had speed slope go off too fast and also took longer than needed. Same with speed thinset...sometimes it seems like it takes as long as regular and sometimes it’s drying before I even get it out of the bucket. It’s like customs and these other companies don’t keep the accelerant consistent?
One thing I thought of that seemingly nobody else brought up was I think the reason the drypack didn't cure right was possibly not using the right water ratio in the mix. Maybe I'm wrong having not used the products and only seeing videos on them, but in Custom's "Speed Slope" video the guy had it mixed to what seemed like a bit wetter consistency than you had mixed it. I think it might be something to do with hydration and the actual cure wonking out, it might need a wetter mix to properly hydrate and cure and set the chemical reactions off right? I think maybe try making a mock shower pan with it mixed exactly how the bag says for water amounts and not by feel and see how fast it cures, imo. Also, could just be a bad bag. :/
Also the test was kind of weird. If you were cooking and a recipe said "wait until chicken is brown, usually 9-10 minutes." And it was 12 minutes and not browned yet, would you continue on with the next step in the recipe, or just wait until the chicken was browned?
Good video Isaac . Things I’m interested in -
1.Tile clips-do they interrupt full coverage
2.directional troweling ,does it matter
3.tile bonded to foam and exposed to water
The directional toweling has already been done. Theres an old video somewhere on CZcams called trowel and error
I had an issue using clips in a steam shower, where the grout dried a darker color anywhere there were clips. It looked like a pattern in the grout. Tried to scratch out the dark spots and regrout, but they came back. Luckily the homeowner was pretty forgiving and didn't press the issue. I guess the grout couldn't dry at the same rate with the plastic clip behind it vs thinset.
@@TheDeeskie what kind of grout?
@@JB-wx1mz it was sanded Mapei in a gray color
If your having problems with clips then you may not be getting full coverage. Clip don't leave hollow spots, not enough thinset causes hollow spots.
Isaac, were you able to measure thickness of the dried speedcoat? Thanks for great content!
Get a heavy bristle brush and load the brush heavy with red guard. Then blot in corners heavy and dip every time if thats what it takes to get mateiral "burned in" to concrete.
Then you can trowel it to thickness or roll on with thick roller cover when concrete has set up and dry a little more.
Dude.. I am fairly certain that the drain flange, the ribbed edge, is supposed to to be embedded IN the mortar.. Not just sitting on top pushed onto it. There is nothing holding the drain in place but the red stuff.
It was imbedded...Look at 4:46 ...Not hard to watch a video before assuming;) He pushes it into the mortar and then seals it with more on top. I.E...Imbedded in the mortar. The cut outs in the flange is for the mortar to seal it. Top of flange is flush with top of the mortar bed. Done exactly right.
That is clearly not imbedded... It's just laying on top. Just look at the rest of the video... The metal ribbing is plainly visible on top of the mortar bed. Perhaps I should have used the word encased.. The flange should be encased in the mortar bed.. Not just sitting on top. There should be a significant structural connection between the flange and base.
A horizontal box on the ground is a low evaporation environment. Slow cure or no-cure?
Hello Isaac,
What kind of plug is it that you used for the drain?
Can you use Ditra over a newly installed hardie backer board for shower or areas of water plumbing? Is this too much of a over kill or ok to do? Or possible to do? Or will this harm anything
Sir thank you shearing great video but if you dont dry mudd and put red gard on it will take hoever to get mudd to get dry because you are trapping all mositure under red gard if mudd doesn't get dry it all soggy sir. I wish you will push mudd harder for us too see how hard muddstable I think down under there it still suggy you seal that air by Red Gard but over all this was great video because you show result how it came out it was awesom video because We could learn truce you video taped for every one thank you so much for extra time to speak and take video all extra labor sir and didnt hide result but shows truce ! I wish you whould check put more plessure to check mudd. Anyway thank you for very educational truce video sir.
Works pretty good with 3M fiber glass mesh ( cloth) bondo ,, the one you use for marine or auto applications !!! Try it its super cool
Sometimes i mix things 50:50 to try get what i like both about them to tease out. About half the time it works out
cool vid. i learned something. do a kerdi bond test with custom building products megalite. i want to see the ardex 8+9 with megalite peel test. tahnks
I use 8 +9 an love it would like to see a test with it as well
The Speedcoat was applied too thick. Should have used a brush. Rule of thumb is a thin first coat. The Speedcoat did not cure before the water test because of how thick it was applied. Oh by the way I learned this from your videos. Lol. Good video.