Better Way to Mount Flexible Solar Panels on RV (2019)
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 06. 2019
- Learn how to mount a semi flexible solar panel on an RV so it’s easily REMOVABLE, has an AIR GAP for cooling, and requires NO DRILLING into the roof.
Website : rvwithtito.com
Patreon : / rvwithtito
Discounts on Popular RV Gear : rvwithtito.com/discounts
Gear, project parts and tools : www.rvwithtito.com/gear
*UPDATE Video*: • (Update) One Year Late...
Watch the 1 Year Follow Up
Download my FREE RV SOLAR PANEL GUIDE : www.rvwithtito.com/solar-pane...
GET 10% OFF SUNPOWER Branded Flexible Solar Panels (US Based)
Use "RVWITHTITO" coupon code at www.SunPoweredYachts.com
110W Sunpower Flex Panel: www.sunpoweredyachts.com/prod...
170W SunPower Flex Panel: www.sunpoweredyachts.com/prod...
RV Solar Equipment I Use : rvwithtito.com/parts/rv-solar...
Materials You'll Need for this Project
- Corrugated Plastic Sheet (size of panel)
- 6 x 1” Stainless Steel Carriage Bolts (¼ - 20)
- 6 x ¼” x 1” Stainless Steel Washer
- 6 (or 12) ¼” - 20 Stainless Steel Bolts (double for locking)
- 6 x ¼” - 20 Stainless Steel Wingnuts (optional if using bolts)
- 4 x ¼” Lock washers
- Aluminum transition strip (for front edge)
- Lock Tight (optional)
- 3M VHB Tape (amzn.to/2FzZK6D)
- 4" Eternabond Tape (amzn.to/2JfezN0)
How to make the Solar Panel Mount
(1) Cut insulator plastic sheet to fit solar panel
(2) Drill ¼” holes through grommets
(3) Cutout bottom of pla7stic insulator under each hole with utility knife deep enough for carriage bolts to be flush with surface (don’t cut all the way through)
(4) Cut six 2” sections of aluminum transition as anchors for the bolts (one for each hole)
(5) Round edges and remove sharp edges of aluminum anchor pieces
(6) Cut 2” x ¼” notches by each hole for each aluminum anchor
(7) Cut front-edge lift cover to the width of the solar panel (smooth edges)
(8) Drill ¼” holes in all anchors
(9) Pre-assemble insulator, bolts and anchors (leave solar panel off for now)
NOTE: Holes are not necessary for the front lift cover. The bolts will not go through the lift cover so that it can be easily lifted off. The lift cover will be held in place by the large washers under each front edge mounting point. Cut grooves if desired around the bolts.
Installation Instructions
(1) Clean roof surface with rubbing alcohol
(2) Position pre-assembled plastic insulator on roof
(3) Secure edges with VHB tape (A couple pieces near each anchor point on each side should do)
(4) Position solar panel over mount aligning the bolts through the grommets
(5) Cut a section of Eternabond Tape to cover each anchor point
(6) Cut a small hole through each piece of tape for the bolt to go through
(7) Remove the tape backing for each secure the tape over each mounting point
(8) Position the front-edge lift cover over the front edge and secure front with Eternabond
NOTE: The Eternabond tape should function as a hinge to allow the front-cover to be easily lifted off.
(9) Install the washers and bolts on each anchor point
NOTE: If you use wingnuts, consider adding some Lock Tight on the threads. You can also double up the bolts for added security.
#rvwithtito #rvsolardiy #diy #rvlife #vanlife #solar #offgrid #doityourself #howto #boondocking #ideas
This video also covers these topics:
Flexible solar panel air gap, Sunpower flexible solar panels, semi flexible solar panels, Flexible solar panels for rv, flexible solar panels for motorhome, Flexible solar panel for rv roof, flexible 12v solar panels, do flexible solar panels get hot, 100w flexible solar panel, problems with flexible solar panels
Disclaimer
The opinions expressed in our videos are our own or from a contributor. Before taking on any project or making a large purchase, we recommend you do your own research and consult a professional for advice. We are NOT liable for any damage to your RV or injury incurred as a result of following our tips, advice or instructions. We are not RV professionals or certified technicians. We are simply RV owners who work on our own RVs and have a desire to share what we learn with others. Be responsible and know your limits.
Affiliate Disclosure
This video may include links to merchants with affiliate programs who pay us a commission on purchases made or actions taken after clicking the link. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Get 10% OFF SUNPOWER Semi-Flexible solar panels (like the ones in the video) at SunPoweredYachts.com with the "RVWITHTITO" discount code. Check current prices at www.sunpoweredyachts.com/shop.
can you tell us what do you use for cable roof box ? i'm having a hard time find one that can be adjustable or adding / removing more cables ?
@@jeannie8262 Hi Jeannie. Have you seen this video? czcams.com/video/aB8ic6x9DAM/video.html. This is how I do it. I can add new holes for more cable glands as needed. Right now I have 4. Hope that helps.
How are the panels working now? Still like new? Have you noticed any performance drop? And other issues?
I need someone to help me install on my Roadtrek know anyone?
That corrugated plastic is call "'Corflute"'.
Drill a hole in the wing nut a safety wire it to the stud . Aviation tip.👍
Or just use a nylon nut!
Or just use a lock nut.
Skateboarder tip just use lock nuts. Same thing we use to keep the wheels on the trucks.
😊
Jap nuts are known to come loose, that's why they drill a hole in the stud and put a cotter pin in .
Genius idea! I am just an hour away from installing my flexible solar panel, but now I have to run to the hardware store. Thanks for saving me from making the mistake of gluing my panel directly to the roof!
A slot cut in the threaded end of the bolts, would be a good idea.
Then if they ever spin in the hole, you could hold them with a screwdriver when you take the nut off.
What an excellent idea. Sounds like a job for my mini cordless Dremel. Thanks!!
Excellent solution for: 1. Stealth install with a very low profile. 2. Air flow to cool the panels and water drainage. 3. No holes in the roof. 4. Front of panel secured to prevent air sailing. This type of install will extend the life of the panel.
I'm hoping it helps extend the panel life.
Most panels fail due to the abuse that UV radiation can dish out. Adhering directly to metal can actually act as a heat sink yet with a quality panel...heat is not an issue. BTW...stealth is a lost art. Law enforcement and concerned citizens are usually supported by the latest ordinances to prevent anyone to stealth camp in many, if not most, neighborhoods and business districts. It was easy in the 80's and 90's...nowadays...not so much. I recomends getting out of the cities onto public land. Its wonderful.
I don't think that I would have cut out around the heads of the carriage bolts. They will compress up when tightened and leave the double thickness for strength. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Exactly what I was thing. Just use a flat top carriage bolt instead of round top and a washer. Slap a piece of tape over it to keep metal from rubbing the rubber roof.
it only locates the coreflute, you could actually cut or punch it completly out, the alloy strip and panel secure the coreflute
Thanks for sharing. I like that you have a written summary in your notes. I also like that you did not have to cut into your van to mount the flex panels.
Awesome video, personally I would use elevator bolts. Maybe epoxy them to the roof as well. Also remember if you are using ANY stainless to use anti-seize or STL to prevent galling. If you line up the wing nuts forward to back before you set them to the roof all you have to do is take a quick look on top to see if any wing nuts have turned off of the forward to rearward orientation. Nice job!!
Thanks for the suggestions. Check out my more recent mount and let me know what you think. czcams.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/video.html
BRILLIANT! I have a fiberglass high top that I wouldn't want to drill holes through, this is a great low-cost and low-tech solution. The corrugated plastic panels also go by the name Coroplast. The aluminum piece looks like the z-flashing I used to join the 4x8 panels on the outside of my shed.
So how do you get the wires through? I also have a fiberglass high top and would love to know some alternatives
Brian. You are a genius. Nobody has done this. This is going on my pop up truck camper for sure. Thank you.
Great! Good luck.
what a great idea. You truly are the Macgyver of RV's
I'm not even into RV'ing and so far I enjoy your videos. I watched one video just to gather info about lithium batteries. Now this is the 3rd video I've watched from your channel tonight. 👍
Hey there! Glad you're enjoying the videos. Cheers.
As usual, your vlogs continue to set the bar for how to communicate and show the correct way for project's. Keep them coming.
Thanks Wayne!! I'll keep them coming for sure.
I used this method to install my 3 flexible solar panels three years ago and about 20k miles and it has served me well. My corrugated plastic has begun to get brittle and will need replacement but this worked and worked well.
Brilliant. This should become the standard method for installing flex panels. Thanks, Brian!
You're welcome Kathy.
Really nice set up! Just got my first flexible panel. Adding it to 3 ridged solar panels. The cleanliness of the install is very impressive.
I am so thankful I found you! I'll be bringing my first RV home in just a couple more weeks. Class C 32 ft. Beyond excited. I'm hooked on your videos. Your work, patience and craftsmanship is impeccable! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and AWESOME ideas! Happy camping! 😁
This is some of the best DIY videos for anyone with an RV. Thank you for making these.
I did something similar, I used neoprene padding beneath each flexible panel. Your corrugated plastic is much less expensive. Excellent idea.
Maybe use 1/2" sheet of foam insulation.
I have to admit, you give great effort in your work. And it shows. Great job.
I was skeptical about how you were going to make it stay on the roof without any drilling. I was pleased to see that it looks very secure. Your real world test has proven your system to be successful. Great job!
Really nice setup and even though the semi-rigid panels are more expensive and potentially more problematic I definitely prefer the much lower profile appearance versus the rigid panels which can be a bit of an eyesore with multiple panels installed. Thanks for the time and effort it took to put this presentation together.
THANK YOU! This has answered my issue about installing lightweight solar panels to a pop top campervan.
Never liked the idea of gluing the solar panel to the roof or drilling holes in the roof. I've used and love the lightweight coreflute for various projects including adding some insulation to my side widows. GREAT IDEA!
Watched your follow ups on this project and gives me more confidence that this system works long term. Cheers Australia
I’ve just found u this past week have gone through 7 yrs ago and watched u . Learning so much thank u
I already bought my flexible, solar panel. I already have portable ones and I drive a minivan which I created into a little camper. I love your idea here I didn’t want to put the tape all the way around it and that gives me some great ideas especially with that that barrier you put between the solar panel and the RV!!
Thank you for the effort you put into this. This informative, very detail-oriented, and cut/paced to be respectful of your viewers time -- but the icing on the cake is your location/shot. Beautiful scenery. Tremendous attention-to-detail and production quality, thank you!
You're very welcome. I really appreciate that feedback. Cheers!
I've got a Class B with a bunch of stuff on the roof, not much room left and not flat. I've installed as many conventional panels as I could fit using brackets. With this new method, I believe can add some skinny flexible panels around the AC in the back. Thanks for this great idea! I already used a variant of your roof cable access method.
Now I can surely do this myself & save tons of money both from the price of panels plus the installation! Great video! Extremely informative and easy to understand! Thank you for putting this together.
Just finished installing 4 HQST 100w panels using the plastic cardboard method shown on this video and everything went great. Thanks to this video I am now set up for off grid very well.. Thank you Tito your videos are great and it gave me the confidence I needed to do it without drilling. No thread lock tight and I’m sure I don’t need it.
I just recently completed installing 6 of the Sunpower 100w flexible panels on my travel trailer using this method and I like how everything turned out. I will definitely report back after I hit the road for a couple months. I opted for elevator bolts as others have suggested. Excited to hit the road next month. Thanks Brian for the inspiration!!
You bet. Enjoy!
What are the long term results?
Brian, I always love how you think outside the box and come up with something brilliant. I'm still in awe of your solar canopies but this goes beyond that. I imagine this will be a game changer for the solar community wanting the lighter weight panels. Kudos to you for your genius ideas.
Thanks so much. It was time for a new method. I hope it helps.
Excellent video Brian. Great research and presentation. The work doesn't require a full shop of professional tools and expert level skills. Most importantly there's no drilling into the RV roof. Something few of us want to do.
Again great video Brian. Thanks.
Thanks Jack. Yeah. It's a pretty easy project.
Brilliant design. I'm impressed with your thoughtful design and detailed handiwork. I'm bookmarking this video to refer back to if I ever do a roof mount of solar panels.
I really like the idea of being able to easily change out the panel at a later date and no holes drilled in the roof. I will definately use this method.
I recently posted a video showing a new method. If you like this one then the other is better. 👍
That looks like a pretty nice solution. I've been considering adding a solar panel to the top of my pop-up camper and I might use this method. However, I would probably use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts. Elevator bolts usually have a larger, flatter, head so you wouldn't have to cut out material to accommodate the carriage bolt head. You can also find elevator bolts with spike grippers under the head that would help keep them from spinning.
I've also started putting tape under the bolt so it doesn't make direct contact to the roof. Good luck with your project!
Elevator bolts is the exact method I'll also be using - with a 1 1/4" head, I can use pre-cut VHB circles for easy install.
Hi,,, may be instead of wing nut a lock nut would be more satisfying.
Great info, thank you!
I noticed the plastic corrugations run width wise not length wise on your panel. I had to "rewind" the video to verify as I thought sealing up the front edge would block any air flow if the corrugations ran front to back. I made a PVC awning/portable mount using your previous video. Thank you for that. And boy, those panels get HOT in direct sunlight.
The front edge is covered by the aluminium piece so front to back orientation wouldn't work. The side orientation is also for proper drainage since the panels are on a very slight downward side angle.
Panel heating has been the demise of many a panel made with the wrong materials. Do some research and you will find panels that can take tremendous heat and still have most of their output after 10-15 or even 20 years. I have a Uni-Solar panel that is 13 years old... very little degredation. My neighbor has had all his panels (four identical from the same manufacturer) die within 3 years. He went the lesser quality route. They were beautiful panels but the materials just did not hold up well. I have a total of 13 amorphous panels that all look about the same as when I bought them yet were never fancy looking. They are also larger than the equivilant crystaline panels so more real estate is needed.
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for, thank you so much!
You're welcome. Glad it helped.
I've watched several of your videos. You are ridiculously good at what you do. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! You're very kind. I'm blushing 😊
Been coping this exactly today as a project. Really helped seeing where you got stuff and all the steps
Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions about my setup.
Makes perfect sense for TPO or EPDM roof, I was thinking strictly about fiberglass. I can see where the lighter mass and lower profile would likely be a necessity for the "rubber" roofs.
Great mounting solution Tito! I really enjoy your relaxed presentation style in all of your videos.
Thank you very much!
Finally, a technique that just might get me moving toward a solar installation (in conjunction with your previous solar “how tos”). Thanks Brian.
You're welcome! Good luck.
This is wonderful solution. I was looking hard at the tubing you installed your panel cables through....would love to see more on that portion of the installation. We are running a 2019 Ford Transit conversion and I have 2 panels to cable and am struggling over making it "look" somewhat good.
Finally, a way to mount safely and securely yet easily replace panels as needed and take them off should you sell your unit! Recently I've seen a couple of used class 'A' RV's all decked out with solar. I just can't imagine putting all that money into a system and then leaving it all and having to do it all over again on the new rig! Now I'm willing to start planning a solar setup for our 5th wheel. I got your solar guide too, thank you so much!
Glad you got something out of all this :) Good luck!
Wow I have been racking my brain to figure out how to install panels on fiberglass. So excited to cross you path.... best solution I’ve seen so far... I think I have a winner. Thank you 😊
Awesome! Good luck.
@Teresa Noel You need an air gap under solar panels to keep them cool so they don't overheat and fail. Rigid panel are the way to go. You should not puncture the roof to mount them. Use adhesive to mount ABS blocks that hold the rigid panels. See www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYPFSGJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07RYPFSGJ
One of the better / best flex Panel installs I've seen. Don't know how I missed this video.
if you copy this design, before installing it, cut screwdriver slots in the ends of the carriage bolts, just in case they try and rotate when you remove the PV panels then you can use a screw driver to stop the carriage bolt from spinning
That’s always a good idea or you can use to nuts snug down the lower not encounter tighten the upper one
Nice job, Tito. I wondered about the panels "lifting" when traveling; hadn't thought of the heat issue. Thanks for sharing this! Y'all Be Safe!
There's been no lifting at all with this setup.
You can cover sides of van, too. Most of the time sun is fron side, not top. On top is just 3h a day. Cover all van and put Tesla PowerWall.
@@simonci5177 except that the Tesla Powerwall weighs almost 350#. Most people would not want to add that kind of weight to a small camper.
Cooling airflow thru the coreflute under the panel could increase the efficiency of the panel.
Just drilling a series of small holes in the front face of the anti-lift strip would suffice. It would not reduce strength and could allow enough airflow to pass to make a small but noticeable difference?
Thank you so much for this amazing detailed build!
You bet. There's always room for improvement. I have some ideas for another method some time this year. We'll see.
Thanks Tito! I am installing a similar system and used your tutorial as a guidance. Instead of cutting the z-bar I'm using 1.5" washers and going to use Eternabond to hold them down. So far so good. Trying to figure out how to route the power cables to the charge controller from the fridge.
Use elevator bolts they have large flat heads with anti rotating tabs
Jeff, I'm getting ready to use Brian's method of mounting panels and also agree that "elevator bolts" seem to be a good option over standard carriage bolts. With the flush heads it seems it will eliminate cutting out a layer of the plastic card board so this will retain integrity and strength of the PCB. I'm also going to use 3/4" bolts rather that 1" to eliminate the extra threads sticking up above the wing nuts.
I'm considering 3M VHB tape rather than Eternabond for bonding but would appreciate comments.
Lastly, Brian thanks for a great site/channel !!
Disregard the 3M VHB comment which was included in error.
Jeff, thank you for the tip did not even know elevator bolts existed
I love this setup!... I'm just brainstorming ways to quickly cover up the panels in the event of hail. Inevitable where I live.
Seriously Brian. This is the best flex panel install anywhere I've seen. I'm going to install mine exactly the same. BTW>That corrugated plastic panel is called "'Coreflute"'.
Nice job guy I had the same concerns. I just bought my first flex panel .I had limited space and limited contour on the top of my pickup topper since I have a rack up there also. I especially like the way you worked that leading edge. In some cities I heard they frown upon seeing solar on your vehicle so I wanted something a little more stealthy and not advertise that I have a solar setup. Your installation technique is commendable. Here's to smooth sailing Bro.
Awesome "how to" video Tito. This is the best You Tube video I have ever seen! Your design is simple yet effective, and I really like how you actually show every step without rushing through. Very thoughtful.
Glad it was helpful!
@@RVwithTito I'm assuming you need some kind of converter/transformer to link the Sunpower panels to your RV's battery system. Do they sell the necessary connection hardware? Also, have you done a video lesson on making the final hookup?
@@dneeld52 The outputs from solar panels feed into a solar charge controller which then regulates the charge to the batteries. You can see our entire setup here if you're interested www.rvwithtito.com/articles/our-solar
Tito very ingenious I hope the flexible panels hold up for you everybody says they don't last but a little more than a year really like your videos thanks
Thanks. This one is actually clearer to see orientation than the new improved method video.
I have a fiberglass Fiberine hightop added to my Ford Econoline van. I am going to try this! Thank you for sharing.
Fantastic video here, mate. This is just the kind of solar DIY installation I was looking for.
Glad you liked it. I've got a new setup coming out soon. Stay tuned.
I would like to personally thank you for you very informative videos. You explained very well. I was gona ask some questions, but I will wait until I complete reading the free guode you included. Thank you so much. I am an single 67yr. Old female, with a 93yr old mom, who will be traveling with me in a 1990 Winnebago Elandin. I want to do the solar power thing, nd am so happy you decided to share your knowledge. I definitely will be in touch as we progress on iur journey. Bless you.
Great method of install I will use shortly!. Thanks for posting.
Excellent! Just what I needed to see. This was my idea too but nice to see it materialize. I have some Lexan Polycarbonate panels which are more UV resistant and shatter resistant than Coroplast but pricier. If you can get used ones from a greenhouse...! They are slightly more raised. On Cheap RV Living, this guy uses tubular aluminum and mounts panels to that, but I think they still need a Coroplast backing to stiffen them up. The tubular aluminum is useful if you have a domed roof and acts like a mini rack.
Your idea of chopping up the tile edging to use as brackets is brilliant and saves money.
Use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts for a flat not curved surface. I think cutting away at that Coroplast was not smart as it will degrade faster with the wind shear forces. The elevator bolt will compress the plastic enough to sink in.
I think you absolutely nailed it on the flex mounting. Everyone should follow this example. If you had a roof rack, this could also be mounted on the rack and that might be easier to replace for maintenance, but this is a simple, elegant solution to this pesky problem. I'm really grateful! Many thanks, Tito! I have 4 to mount. I was worried about having to add a deflector but with that front strip of metal on each one, problem solved. No wind shear issues. I see that the hollow tube section of the Coroplast is facing side to side. Initially I thought it should face front to rear for good airflow under the panels to keep them cool, then realized the wind shear would be too strong that way, so side to side is more than enough wind getting redirected to there. Superb.
I would add a dab of Dicor self leveling lap sealant on top of every tightened up, Loctite'd wing nut. Now it is truly waterproof, corrosion proof and also insulated against heat. Also viewers - use stainless steel hardware all the way.
Pro tip - I used a Wagner heat gun (cheapest brand) to heat up Dicor when I have to remove it. It comes off so easily. Use a flat blade putty knife and a heat gun when you have to remove those wing nuts, it really is a breeze. I see that Eternabond tape also loosens up with a heat gun. You made a video on that too. Your info is so practical and applicable. Very useful videos!
Q: 1:39 - What sort of wire loom (wire cover) did you use on the roof for the cords from solar panels? It looks white, and is probably heat reflective and insulated so the wiring stays cool. I'd love to know if its anything special?
FYI- I'm not getting instant notification of your new videos. I missed the last 3. Glad I came looking.
Hit that bell icon :) Glad you checked back in.
This video was incredibly helpful, thank you for being so thorough!!
Great idea! After messing with mounting my flexi panels entirely with Eternabond, (with 2 layers of bubble foil insulation underneath,) and caulking the edges of the tape, I still couldn't keep the water out. Now I'm going to have some serious acetone work ahead of me to remove the Eternabond goo.
Thanks for confirming the right way to mount the Flexi solar panel. 🙏🏿🙏🏿🙏🏿
No problem 👍
I love the ideas I'm planning on copying them on my prius except the wingnut
Hey Brian! Nice clean panel install! I love how you’re so intent on perfection! Thanks for sharing! ~Jim~
Thanks!
Thanks...very cool setup. I’ve been looking for a solar setup that doesn’t require drilling through the top of our Airstream.👍🏼
Excellent idea. I'll probably install my next 2 panels that way ..makes most senses.
Well thought out installation procedure. Please let us all know how this weathers over the years.
NOTE: there have been reports of flexible solar panels totally failing if installed directly to metal roofs with no thin layer of insulation underneath the panel. This seems likely to be a thermal overload failure, especially with flexible panels that have an aluminum backing that was probably intended to be a rustproof heat sink. Most likely solar heating accumulation on a metal roof with insulation on the passenger compartment side was transferred to the solar cells via their aluminum backing, thus overheating them. (It would be useful to verify this if others have had the same experience.)
Great information. I’ll be downloading your solar ebook too. Solar is intimidating!
Tito, I actually enjoyed your video more the second time around picking up a few things I missed the first time. Somewhere in another video someone had suggested using 1/2 inch foam cushion under the panels as an insulator. Have you or any of your viewers had any experience with this material. Your technique seems like the simplest and least damaging method to secure these panels and I like simple -great job!
_Slick, very slick! Nice Tito!_
Novel idea. Great workmanship.
Thanks for the idea, getting ready to install some on the roof of my goose camper. Looks like an awesome solution for mounting with no roof penetrations. 👍
Thank you for sharing you experience and expertise, I'm a new subscriber and I have been binge watching your channel for the last few days. See you out there.
If you see me. Say hi!
Wow, you've done it again. A very well thought out and executed DIY install. Nearly genius. If I can only overcome the fear of that first big step, which panels to buy, what else do I need, controllers, etc. Like you, I am a planner, but sometimes I over think things. I always learn from your videos. Thanks for sharing.
RedRoofRetriever I hear ya!
@@secondwindphotos This dude posted this in spring - czcams.com/video/Dvqvhl18dO4/video.html
Nothing wrong with over thinking it. Better than regrets. But don't get analysis paralysis. Sometimes jumping in and buying one item and tackling a small project illuminates bigger ones.
If you want to now best products - see Humble Road videos for electrical components.
Solar panels are independent from rest of the items. Stick to lightweight panels not heavy glass ones. Mount like Tito did, best way I've seen. Keep them covered up so you don't get a shock or electricity being generated till you are ready to use them. Run a fake line like a string thru your existing roof vents like Fridge. Once the string is inside the RV decide where it needs to go for hookup and how long it needs to be. Your wire thickness depends on length. Mock it up first.
Then make cardboard mockups of all the electrical devices you need and mount them in RV. Once it is all set in place and you worked out the kinks, do your ordering.
Best Inverter is Victron. The Multiplus 2 can handle both lithium and AGM (Lead acid) batteries, and is also a battery charger and inverter. It is a True Sine Inverter not Modified Sine. Do not use a Modified Sine or your 110V appliances will fry. Always True Sine! Get a 2000 Watt inverter for most things as 3000 watt is pretty high. The bigger inverters will also sip more power as they are turned on. You only need an inverter turned on when you use 110V power from the batteries. 12V lights and fans, water pump, fridge mostly run without the inverter.
Best solar charge controller (SCC) is Victron MPPT (not PWM). For a 30 amp SCC, you can mount a max of 400 watts of solar. If you mount 420 watts, you need another 30 amp SCC. It is better to get two SCCs at 30 amps each than one at 60 amps. Easier to have two systems if one malfunctions. The other one is still working.
Safety code issues with your wiring diagram, wire gauges, wire heating all covered by Greg Virgoe. He is a great teacher and UK certified electrician.
Where do you start?
With your own requirements. Start camping and note what you want and need. Hair dryer? Toaster, coffee maker or French Press? Run AC on batteries or no AC? Run fridge on AC or use old tech propane fridge? Make a list. Then determine size of inverter you need. Then decide how much lithium battery bank size you need and can afford. You can keep adding batteries, and solar panels but not inverters. Also you could have a small dedicated inverter for your CPAP machine at night so the big power hog can be turned off. Requirements are key and you need to know yours first.
@@mjremy2605great info!
Hi My Name is Rich &I Really liked Your Video on Solar, We Don't know Much About it But Want to Learn All We Can Befor We Purchase, But Until Your Video's We Didn't know Who To Trust So Thank You Rich
You're welcome Rich. Thanks for adding my to your list of resources.
😲🤯Its crazy! I had the exact same idea in my head with the bolts and wingnuts and under panel of coroplast and VHB tape and eterna-bond tape.
Im doing it with my 100 watt solar-saga foldable panel.
I want to remove it when it rains.
So glad i found this video.
I might use bolts with a hole on the tip, so s pin can be used instead of wingnuts.
I want to be able to remove them quickly in case of sudden downpour and when im awake from the van.
Good video !
One suggestion, round the corners of the tape.
That’s a technique all roofers do when dealing with any type of flashing material.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been looking into heat welding material also.
Hey great job! Looks great. Gotta love that eternabond tape. Super strong.
Could you do an output test with a watt meter with those flex panels? I would love to see how well they have held up. How long have you been using the sunpower ones? Those are the only flex panel cells that work well
Thanks Will. I've used eternabond for tons of stuff. I've even used it to patch a leaky fuel line in a pinch until I could fix it. Worked!
So far they are a top performer, They are the 110 watt ones, but I've only used them for 3 months. I haven't isolated and measured them since installing, but I'd love to make them last a long time.
@@RVwithTito they look great!! Can't wait to see how they hold up. Your mounts look amazing!! So cool
@@RVwithTito So you are a year in with the panels, how are they holding up? I'm thinking of ordering 12 to use on a boat instead of rigid panels (to save weight). Sunpower certainly seem to be the best, but still not sure of how long they will last...
I’m trying this out to avoid drilling holes in my fiberglass camper shell on my truck. Thanks for the video!
Glad to help
Thank you , save all your videos, they are really a help.
Nice work , one comment . Drilling thin small pieces of a sharp things will send you to the first aid box or the emergency room. I speak from experience. Now that flexible panels have improved (may 3 2021) I am revisiting flexible panels for my ordered Rv coming .my new ordered rig comes with a wopping 100 watts . So I am back watching your videos again for ideas. Thank you.
You can buy lock wingnuts, they have the plastic inserts, so they won't come off easily....great job!
Thanks!
WHO SELLS THEM?
I tried nylon insert nuts... I couldn't get them to work easily because the bolt would spin. I ended up going back to 2 normal nuts to do the lock. Not sure what I did wrong?
Just subscribed! This solution might be the answer to my searching. Thanks-a-Million!!
Brilliant!! Just what i was loooking for! New subscriber, going to enjoy looking at your other videos!
Great Job , The Plastic is called COREFLUTE , used in sinage ,,, very strong stuff ,,
Wikipedia adds: Corriboard - also known under the tradenames of Cartonplast®, Polyflute, Coroplast, FlutePlast, IntePro, Proplex, Correx, Twinplast, Corriflute or Corflute. Wish I could find the affordable version. Its kinda spendy.
I'd go with plywood for cost and stability.
@@ravendon Missing the point, getting heat away from the flexible panel with the core flute is the best thing as that's a major problem that shortens flexible panels life span dramatically...
Dude great video thank you I've been racking my brain on how to no hole attach some panels.
Thanks, this was an awesome way to mount the the flexible panels.
Really like how this is done. Hoping to add solar to my travel trailer later this year and this may be the way I go now.
Sweet. I'll keep posting any updates and improvents I make.
Nice, will check out your free guide. Great video as usual!
Thanks!
Great idea for the leading edge. Awesome... Thanks Brian
Thanks. It hinges right up when it's unbolted.
Very nice clean installation Brian, nice job, thank you for sharing!
You are very welcome. Go checkout my other videos on this topic. I've made several upgrades.
Tito, you are the man. Thanks for the video and keep up the great work.
You bet! Glad you liked it.
Very nice! Wish you had come up with this about 6 weeks ago before I put flexible panels on my RV. This is a much better method.
Oops. Sorry about that.
@@RVwithTito LOL, nothing to be sorry about. I just really like the way you did it, versus the way I did it.
Great Job Tito! Wonder if you would do a follow on video of the electrical connection part?
I now use your process. I really like this because no holes in roof and if I want to use the panels I can remove them.
Great! Let us know if you come up with any ways to improve it.
That's a pretty sweet idea. Thanks for posting this Brian.
You bet