How To Mount Large Solar Panels on RV with NO DRILLING | Winnebago Class A | RVwithTito DIY
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- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
- What?! NO Drilling Holes in the RV roof? Is it strong enough? I'll show you how I installed these very large solar panels on the RV roof. BONUS: How to save lots of money by buying used solar panels.
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We upgraded our 2003 Winnebago Adventurer Class A Motorhome with the ultimate Off-Grid Solar and Lithium system.
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UPDATE VIDEO : Watch the ENTIRE Off-Grid RV Solar Installation From Start-To-Finish
• RV Solar Installation ...
Video Topics
00:00 RV Solar Panel Installation
00:50 Should You Buy Used Solar Panels?
02:35 How to test solar panels?
07:05 Planning my solar panel layout on the RV roof
08:20 How to Remove Satellite and TV antenna from RV
13:34 How to create a Unistrut Strut Channel Track Solar Panel Mount
16:54 How to mount solar panels on RV without drilling holes in the roof
PARTS/EQUIPMENT MENTIONED IN VIDEO (affiliate links - see affiliate disclosure below)
Where to Buy Used Solar Panels (SanTan Solar): www.rvwithtito.com/santansolar
Sika Flex Roof Sealant: amzn.to/3lpACVo
Rivet Nut Tool: amzn.to/3uSHyxj
1/4 x 20 Rivet Nuts: amzn.to/3mA7b2k
WAGO Wire Connectors: amzn.to/3iIaeUP
A good Large Display Multimeter: amzn.to/3myPDUb
Unistrut 1/4" 20 anchors: amzn.to/3MGx26o
VHB Tape Used (RP-62) is discontinued - amzn.to/3BtD0jC
VHB 5952 is a possible replacement for RP-62 - amzn.to/3FVwxBR
VHB 5952 Datasheet: technicaldatasheets.3m.com/en...
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Disclaimer
The opinions expressed in our videos are our own or from a contributor. Before taking on any project or making a large purchase, we recommend you do your own research and consult a professional for advice. We are NOT liable for any damage to your RV or injury incurred as a result of following our tips, advice or instructions. We are not RV professionals or certified technicians. We are simply RV owners who work on our own RVs and have a desire to share what we learn with others. Be responsible and know your limits.
Affiliate Disclosure
This video may include links to merchants with affiliate programs who pay us a commission on purchases made or actions taken after clicking the link. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and SanTan Solar Affiliate Program. As an Amazon Associate and Santan Solar Affiliate we earn from qualifying purchases. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
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Thanks for the video you’ve had over a year now with this set up. I’m very skeptical that that tape is gonna last or hold against the wind on the highway. I would love to hear from you to see if you still think this is a good way to go.
@@captamerica3693 Everything has held up great. Here are a couple updates. This one: czcams.com/video/ZZn_A1zCPwE/video.htmlsi=jYfbklENhDINXTph and this one: czcams.com/video/MV8aSLt_Ers/video.htmlsi=es3L7v-ehOFYM5k1 ENJOY!
No-drill mounts are only safe on fiberglass or aluminum roofs. Rubber roofs are not adhesived to the wood below, so a pure adhesive mount is relying on the weight of the panels and strength of the rubber to not fly off.
The fix of adding a few big bolts greatly helps, but it's still better to use multiple smaller screws since you are basically mounting on 1/8" plywood unless you only screw into studs.
I replaced my roof with 3/4" plywood and not OSB Glue Crap before I added the channel and screwed it down. In the back of my mind I would always wonder if the VHB would hold. I know it's good stuff because I use the stuff on other projects but???? I trust Tito though to do what's right for him.
It's holding great after the last 2 years. My only concern is it holding too well and pulling the laminate off. That's why I ended up adding a few screws.
Possible improvement would be to use aluminum unistrut instead of steel, since weight = fuel on an RV, plus the mounts are aluminum and dissimilar metals corrosion would be worse on steel to aluminum vs aluminum to aluminum. Also, simply glue down the unistrut with 5200 and that will hold better than your VHB tape, since the roof isn't perfectly flat. The 5200 would give you a better bond on the roof, as long as you clean it well first. Your zinc plated screws and fender washers are GOING to rust and leave oxide marks on the roof and probably sides of the coach. Use aluminum or stainless, just make sure to use anti-seize on the screws.
Fuel worry? My RV has not moved in 10 years. I do like the anti rust stuff though.
The level confidence you have in making these mods to your rig is....amazing.
I have a Winnebago travel trailer that needs this kind of solar and I am hoping I have the confidence you have when, this spring, I install my panels.
Thanks for creating *amazing* content and teaching me so much.
Just take your time and think it through before you make these mods. It's always better to be prepared.
You are not smart. Double sided tape is not in any way a safe choice for travelling down the highway.
I would use lock washers on those bolts, Great job
Yes. Plan to. I just wanted to show quickly how the brackets fit on. I'll do a final lock down when I wire it all up.
Agreed on lock washers, especially with all the RV vibration.
Another comprehensively brilliant video Brian, thank you.
Owning a Mercedes Sprinter motor home with 140 watts on the roof has me in awe of what your girl (Winnebago, not the good looking one) is going to enable with all that power.
Can't wait til the wiring hook-up occurs and take care whilst up on your roof, like you, we care about your safety.
Thanks. I'm looking forward to finishing up this system. Still working out the layout of all the extra gear. Very close though. I'll be safe.
That is such a brilliant mounting system. I love those used panels from Santan. That RV can keep the DC fridge running 24/7 with those panels!
Definitely for a DC fridge...AC fridge too.
@@RVwithTito are you able to run an air conditioner entirely of solar?
Only if you have enough Batteries on board to operate that refrig for 18 to 20 hours...or your generator has to cycle on and off to recharge those batt's....
A mini-split AC unit would make good use of these PV’s and a 600 AH battery bank.
Bought our first RV a couple of years ago, and learned right away that I was going to need some sort of solar array. It's an older RV ('89), but it is in really good shape. I knew I didn't want to start drilling holes in the fiberglass roof. Came here just to learn what tape you used, but watched the whole video, and you gave me some great ideas! Thank you for the indepth video, looking forward to watching the wiring video!
The way that you carefully show all the steps and parts, gives me confidence that I could do the same things.
That's great to hear. Kinda what I'm going for with my videos :)
Like so many before me I can't wait for the next installment.
I liked the cardboard pattern you made. One test fit is better than two hundred expert measurements. Good, good, good work. Journeyman quality work. I really do look forward to seeing, (and learning) more.
One more thing Brian. You're very generous about responding to commentors. I notice that and 'preciate it.
Hey Bruce. I appreciate your feedback. Yes. I keep a lot of cardboard just for template and mock-up purposes :)
Nice job! Love all that open roof space. Oh and Congrats on 100,000. As always another great video!
Thanks Jared! I appreciate that 🙂
You'r workmanship is second to none exellent great to see wife helpin out.
Thank you for this video. I’m always concerned about drilling into my vehicles and this video proves there is always another solution. 👍🏼👊🏼
Awesome project. The only suggestion I have is that a little Loctite on those bolts would be a good idea.
Thanks. I do plan on locking them down.
I did something similar to this but with Aztec boards, Renogy brackets so I can angle them to the sun and locknuts so nothing comes loose on the road
Blue Loctite, not red. Unless you never plan on removing them.
I always use stainless bolts and stainless nylocker nuts and that way they won’t rust or corrode or come lose, my née for thread locker. Any thin on my Bigfoot 10.4 truck camper and the same on my fifth wheel don’t like rust streaks down the sides of camper. And just remember that any and all times if you use different alum bolts and stainless the alum will corrode so for normal temps you use silver and where in very hot locations use the copper color anti size and this will make life so easy to take it apart no broken bolts .
A Lot Of Loctite is a good idea. I can hardly wait to drive behind at 60mph when these start flying of the roof.
That's cool! I set my 500w panels on my 86 Toyota Dolphin with no holes through the roof...but I put holes through the side. I used galvanized electrical conduit and made mounts out of galvanized cover plates, screwing them into each side, running all the way across. Then drilled holes so the conduit itself slid through the solar panel frames. This gave me over an inch of air flow, which is important. It's been up there now for about a year - all is solid. It powers 560ah Lithium bank through Victrob bluetooth MPPT. I love never having to plug in or use my generator. Awesome! Yours looks more professional than mine though. Great job!
Glad to see you didn't paint the back of the Super Strut Rails Brian! Nice Job!
This is definitely the way to go for attatching to the roof. The idea of drilling holes in the roof is like fingernails on the chalk board.
Looking forward to the wiring video!
I hope to get it done soon. Stay tuned.
I already appreciate the amazing amount of work you do in your videos.
I appreciate that! thanks.
Brian, you are THE RV Craftsman! Good find and install. Looking forward to the rest!
More to come! Thanks.
@@RVwithTito I figured out the issue and a solution to losing panels off the camper. Strong crosswinds were getting under the sides of the panels and lifting greater than the Eternabomd was able to hold. The simple solution was to return to Home Depot for some more of that flashing for the sides. No further issues, and the panels are working great! Thanks again for the inspiration you instill in your videos! -Bud
Great work. Your mounting trials have shown rewards. looking forward to seeing what you've learned on the wire management side now.
As a Geek of all things technical, I greatly appreciate your detailed and entertaining vids. Keep up the great work.
I’ve watched a few of your videos and you do very good work, explain what you are doing simply and don’t waste time with non relevant subject mater. As an electrical contractor that installs a lot of PV, I have one comment. The rail spacing is too wide. When we run rails the manufacturer has specs on where they go. Generally 1/4-1/3 in from the edge. They would have mounting holes that give you an idea of where that is. Rails are usually mounted in the other orientation, so I’m not sure if they have holes on the short ends. With the rails in ten inches on each side, your maximum span would be 20 inches. The 38-39 inch span may allow the module to flex more than acceptable. As a test, a GoPro camera could be mounted and a test drive preformed to see the flex. Thank you for the videos, your channel is very good!
Thanks for the suggestion and feedback. I appreciate it.
Ahhhh screw all that BS. Tito's work is always 100 percent stable and no need to second guess with your comment.
Pretty cool!!! I have my panels VHB'd to our roof. Three years, no issues. Still up there solid
Good to hear!
Thanks Brian! This solar panel install was awesome! Can't wait to see the rest of your projects!
It's coming. Gear in the shop is stacking up :)
MOUNTING RAILS-YESSS! Very few installations use them and they are the KEY to a good system
i really like how you did this. aesthetically pleasing, sturdy and no holes in roof. inspires me to add another panel on my RV. retired electrician. used unistrut for everything. i always preferred the aluminum strut . much lighter but still strong & non corrosive. holds up to the elements. unfortunately home depot and lowes do not stock it. some electrical wholesale do. the rivet nut tool is cool. looking forward to seeing you wire these up. super job!
We used that to in a lot of solar installs. Unistrut everywhere lol.
That’s what I’ll probably use as well for my install. And yea aluminum 👍🏼
Need to caulk your edges on your patches.
Yeah. The aluminum channel would have been good but very expensive.
Amazing work as usual! Your attention to detail is impressive 🤙
Thanks!!
Hi Tito I have enjoyed your videos for years now. I installed the channel system a couple of years ago but I used Adjustable solar panel mounting brackets and bolted the channels down. I also used Strut Channel Nuts,1/4”-20 to hold down the brackets. A little Dicor to seal the holes and Bam.... I also removed permanently roof top AC's (Best Move EVER) and all the roll up ceiling vents! Vents are over rated. Now I have room for at least 12 solar panels and I can walk unhindered up the center aisle. WEEEEEE! I installed two air conditioners, Midea mini split 500 watt installed in the living room and a Frigidaire 450 watt installed in the bedroom. I installed outside compartment doors, drawer slide platforms and only have to open the doors and slide the platform out with the air conditioners sitting permanently on them to enjoy economical solar power air conditioning. Matter of fact they keep my place cooler than the roof top Dometic and both AC's run on less power than the Dometic by far and I don't need a soft start to run solar. I could not be happier. The AC units are also installed in a cabinet in the bedroom and within a cubby hole in the entertainment center in the living room at ground level. To top it all off each AC is less than $400! Where the Vents used to be in the ceiling well I made good use of those 14x14 spaces and covered them with wide low profile LED multi function ceiling lights. If I need venting I will open a window or turn on the AC units on fan mode and I will get much more air flow on virtually no cost. I installed smart plugs and Smart IR/RF Remote Control Hub which replaced all my remote controls so now I have a smart RV and I tell Alexa to turn on and off everything including the air conditioners. I am 66 and been a full time RV for 20 years and could not be happier with these mods. I was going to stop here but I think your viewers need to hear what I have to say next. Do not use battery solar power with high output 12v inverter. I was testing battery draw on 12V system using 12v 3000W inverter and battery cables started smoking. They should never make a 12V inverter over 1500 Watts because of the high amp draw. A 3000W draw at 12 volts is 2500 amps! A 3000 watt draw at 24 volts is 125 amps which is half the amps of the 12V. Needless to say I switched to 4000 watt 24V inverter, connected solar panels in series and parallel for 24V and did the same with the 12V batteries. The charge controller had no problem handling the 24V. Everything runs cool and economical. Cheers!
That's quite a COOL setup 😎. Sounds like you've got it all dialed in. Thanks for sharing. I'm you'll get some wheels a spinning. 👍
Tito - just what the doctor ordered.I have been struggling with how to mount panels on our boat. Love your solution and going to do this. Thank you for taking the time to show your beautiful work
No problem. Glad it helped!!
What an amazing job...as usual. I can't wait to see the rest of the install. I'll be following for sure. Thanks for sharing.
I appreciate that. I'm glad to have this part done so I can move the show down into the belly.
Thank you Brian , for another video. I love the unistrut idea. I would have since you used VHB tape , used SOLID UNISTRUT ( without the slotted holes) but I love the idea. Great info and looking forward to watching all your upgrades as you do them again on this new RV.
Yeah. Thought I'd try and use what was readily available at the store :)
@@RVwithTito , Yep most hardware stores only have slotted. An Electrical supply or Plumbing supply would offer solid. I wish I had thought to use unistrut when I did mine as i have access to evert type of strut. I just installed panels on my class C and used the preformed ABS plastic corners and used construction adhesive to glue them down on my fiberglass roof. I love your videos , thanks
@@RVwithTito thank you for making this video!!! I am planning to use a similar method to install solar panels on my class c, doing some research now and wondered if you chose the slotted so that water could run out through the slots in the spots where the tape is not but it looks like the tape isn’t really thick enough to create space between the the channel and roof to drain. Have you had any issues with water collecting in the slots? If you were to do it again, would you chose the solid channel? Has there been any trouble with on the bottom unpainted side? Thank you again for taking the time to do this!
@@amandacarlson4282 The slots are working well for releasing water. Dirt or leaves may collect underneath though. I've been blasting them out with a hose periodically. Everything is working great. I did add an anchor screw to each end just to prevent any delamination of the roof material. I haven't had any, but it's just for added protection.
Outstanding installation. Very professional results.
Another advantage is quite a bit of sunshade with those large panels, too.
I find these videos from you and MS Tito very well done. You use properties, work clean, concise instruction, and a nice work relationship, too.
Thanks. I appreciate that feedback. Yes helping keep the roof cooler is a bonus.
Great idea using the wago to connect to the MC4. I love my wagos
I was thinking the same thing!
Thanks! I've been doing that a long time. They're very handy for connecting probes to.
Great work! I have similar size panels I’m about to install on my fifth wheel and contemplated something like this as well instead of drilling. So this gives me some good ideas, thanks for a great vid!
Be sure the top roof membrane won't pull off. Not all roofs are built like Tito's.
@@stevekight1955 thanks! I actually finished mounting mine a few weeks ago. Did something similar, but different. I definitely screwed mine down though
Yes sir i've been looking at ways to not drill into my truck topper to add a solar panel, now i found it. Thanks again for the instructional video.
Thanks Brian, really impressed with what you're doing and the way you simplify the explanation of off everything
My pleasure! Glad the video was helpful.
Hi Tito, you might consider raising the panels up a bit for better ventilation/cooling/increased solar output and also to more easily clean out the inevitable accumulation of debris under the panels (pine needles, leaves, pollen, and such). Looks great though and I love your videos!!
and safety lines ! otherwise, very nice diy installation; I like that craftmanship level ! wow
Congrats on the Adventurer! We had a 2007 Adventurer for many years before we finally went diesel. That was a great rig. I've also been rocking VHB tape to mount four 100 watt panels to the roof of our current rig for about 4 years. No problems at all. I do a "pull" test yearly...
Thanks. Yes. We really love our Adventurer. It's been a great rig so far and we've certainly put it to the test this last year. Same here on the mounts...holding strong.
I absolutely love your install I just did mine yesterday using the brackets I wish I had seen your install before I did mine. I will do my next 2 panels as you did using the channel and I love that tool
The Uni-Strut channel and Rivet Nut so you don’t have to use the zee brackets is so ingenious.. great install. Can’t wait for the rest of the series.
Thanks. I'm liking it too. It gives me lots of options for the future.
This will be great to follow as it was also my exact plan. 4 panels at 440 watts should be enough for any boondocker. I will likely make mine tiltable though.
I have an old tilt kit that I'll be carrying around. It'll be easy enough to add when needed.
Is that a tilt kit designed for solar or???
Light sanding of the bottom of the track rails would have helped the VHB tape stick to the track better. VHB works better on rough surfaces.
Yes. Good tip. Thanks.
I would be concerned that sanding the bottom of the track rail would remove the galvanized coating and allow rust to form..
No it does not... Read the instructions. As I called 3M on the application and they say smooth surface. Using a metal roller to apply the VHB tape...Pressing down and applying constant pressure on the surface first. Then lay brackets on that.
I would add. You use 3M 4920 or 4950 for it's high heat resistance and shear strength per inch... As I use this stuff all the time. To avoid drilling holes. And it has held up in 120 mph winds..
@@WizzRacing120mph? I rarely drive my rv that fast 😆
@@steveABCDEFG In a head wind.. You add vehicle speed plus head winds.
So the math is 65 mph plus say 50 mph head wind. You get 115 across the surface.. Why most people add a fairing in front. To deflect to the wind over them...But the real issue is heat. It it loses the bond to the metal surface. It will shear.. Why you should inspect them every month. and don't cheap out of the tape. Use as much as you can. I prefer the full length of the bracket.
I think that is one of the best mounting systems I seen on any of these RVs or CZcams RV set ups. Thanks for making this video came out excellent
Thanks. I appreciate that. I like it too 👍👍🙂
Those panels are massive. I also bought used panels that came off of a house. I saved a lot of money and I get great performance. I really like your ideas on mounting.
That is a very clean installation, I plan to follow your method when I get around to installing solar panels. While watching, there are a few things that I feel I may do slightly different. One would be to add a flat bar to the bottom of the channel by welding it along the side of the channel. This would be to increase the width of the footprint and would allow the use of more tape. I would also cover the entire bottom with the tape rather than intermittently along the path. I am not saying your install is inadequate, I would rather error on the side of caution by going to the extreme. Caulking the sides is also a nice touch as it keeps the dirt and moisture away from the edge of the rail. Along the front of each panel it may be a good idea to install a wind scope to deflect the wind over the edge of the panels while travelling. Thanks for taking the time to produce this great video, I always enjoy watching each episode.
Thanks for the tips. Yes I'm working on some kind of wind baffle/deflector for the front and side.
@Dave Eymundson @R.V. with Go to DIY Do please be mindful regarding aerodynamics and principal of lift and airfoils as you consider a wind baffle in front of the installed rooftop solar panels. Avoid creating a lot of lift by not baffling or thoughtfully smartly baffling or wind screening just enough - not so much that a lot of lift is created. Trailing tabs may be better for slightly improved aerodynamics and reduced drag. Try little tabs that are bat-wing or pendant shaped tabs at trailing edge.
@@dondassinger6202 Ever since our first panels, I've been interested in the aerodynamics of solar panels. When we were kids and forgot to strap down our surfboards, they'd stay on the top of the car for miles and miles, until the lifting forces exceeded their weight.
I wonder what the optimum design for panels would be. Close to the roof? Raised four or five inches?
This video served as a great primer for the 1700W Solar project I've completed on a Class C RV (4 * 425W panels).
Thanks for sharing, and please continue!
Great 👍 Nice job! Glad it helped.
I remember the first time I saw one of your videos you were installing old cell phone camera's around the RV - Alfred I think - I love your work !
I always like your installs, simple clean and just makes so much sense. I'd love to install mine this way but I have a rubber roof so don't think it would work as I'd be depending on the roof adhesive.
I'd add a few screws on a rubber roof install (at least on the ends)
I have had my vhb taped panels mounted to the roof for about 10 years with no problems.
Yeah I've got 4 100 watt Renegy panels mounted in a similar manor to Tito's panels on my class A using VHB 4646 tape for 4 years now and 11000 miles and they aren't going anywhere.
Great to hear!
Outstanding install. Used Solar panels, a truly amazing idea.
I mounted my six Renogy panels on my Winnebago 2 years ago with VHB tape and then put self leveling sealant over top of the brackets for extra security. It worked just fine!
I appreciate your attention to detail and taking the time to do a perfect install. It seems to be a lost art these days. Most folks take shortcuts vs the time to do it right. Awesome job!
I appreciate that feedback. I guess I'm a bit of a perfectionist and like to do a good job even if nobody else besides me will see it up on the roof :)
@@RVwithTito I’m the same. I prefer detail to speed. Nice job.
I've done similar with the unistrut. If I did it again, I would get the version of unistrut without the slots in the base.
I also chamfered the ends of the unistrut which looks nice, but next time, I'd probably 3d print a chamfer end cap and leave the unistrut itself square cut.
Hmm. An endcap is a good idea. Unfortunately, I just got these from Home Depot and Lowes who only had the slotted ones. Maybe they're a tad less weight :)
there are many different styles of caps on the market. some cup the shape so it is open and some are capped ends. every brand of strut makes caps.
Thats a smart and easy mounting system without have to drill holes in the roof.! I might give it a go on my Renault Kangoo and work with rails for solar panels instead of expensive flexibel ones.
Beautiful 😻 Clean 🧼 Work. Thank You 🙏. This is exactly what I will do with my 400 watt panels on the top of my aluminum cargo trailer/ portable electric ⚡️ shed. I didn’t want to screw into my brand new trailer roof. Thank You so much. New Subscriber here 👊. So glad I found you & your channel. I’m guessing you are Filipino. My beautiful wife is Filipina. Salamat Po 🍻
Just drove from WA to AZ and they haven't blown off :) Been to the PI but I'm not Filipino. I did grow up in Hawaii though.
As an engineer, I tend to overthink things but I have some concerns with the adhesive used to secure the panels. In my experience, some of this ultra sticky adhesives are incredible at average temperature but when you get below freezing, they stop working, similarly with extremely high temperatures like inside a hot car on a sunny day. The other concern I have is what will happen to the fiberglass roof with that kind of stress? Wind, weight, etc... Will the fiberglass delaminate from the wooden roof?
I have aspirations of putting 3+kw of solar, also from SanTan, on the roof of my 5th wheel but I feel like drilling is the only suitable option. My hesitation is adequately sealing the many, many holes I put in the roof. plus, my roof is TPO anyway.
This adhesive is used on skyscraper windows so I’m confident that it will work for this application. The stress is spread out over 7’ instead of a smaller area. There have been many RV owners that use this method and it has worked for them many years.
We put 6 solar panels on our class A with only VHB tape and 8 extra wide feet per panel. Tape as only under those feet. They were on for three years through heat and extreme cold and did not budge. We sold the RV so have no idea what happened later.
A few years ago, I watched the "Top Secret Catamaran" part 1 and part 2 series here on CZcams's "The O'Kelly's" channel. This top engineer converted an older cat to 100% solar power. In it, he stated that the heat generated by the panels is significant and it decreased the efficiency of each panel. He, therefore, had all the panels raised an inch or 2 above the surface successfully. It made a real difference in the project results. Happy to see that you left room for that improvement. Part I: czcams.com/video/o6kOvjS1ytE/video.html and Part II: czcams.com/video/nchKhM_TxYk/video.html
As I was finishing up my degree program (electrical engineer), there was a student finishing up his master’s program. He basically has a small water pump running water over it to cool it and cycling it as the system caught it at the bottom. I can’t remember how much efficiency increased but it was significant! I want to say 10-15% and this was in north Texas late fall. So you’d be seeing temperatures of 90+ daily and med-high humidity.
Neat way to install those panels. Love the threaded rivet idea and I picked up some of those wago connectors for my test probe setups. Handy! And those panels aren't going anywhere anytime soon!
Morning Titp, I've watched a few of your vid's, like the very short intro, now to the point.
I just watched the vid that you made with the solar panel window shade idea, got most of my imagineering brain cells energized and I thought to myself, why not make a frame big enough to go almost full length of my RV on the drivers side with adjustable legs so the angle of the cells could exceed the roof height to catch the light longer in the day plus shade the entire side of my RV.
This way it would have a lot of benefits over a roof mount, First is that while on the road the panels wouldn't be subject to falling debris like large hail stones, branches or any other roof scrapes, second it would shade the drivers side of the RV to help with keeping things cool inside and no strain on the roof membrane like I see so many roof mounts doing.
The plug & socket idea in the side is good but I think I'll hard wire over the rear trim and under the roof overhang in the back.
With this concept the panels can be much larger than a person could find room for on the roof, easy to keep clean, just lay it flat against the side of the RV.
I was wondering what the black electrical tape on your roight thumb was for,,,,,,,
Is it a custom venal Band-Aid?
Being a career auto & truck mechanic I recognized it right away, but you should put some gauze between the wound and the tape, looks more professional,,,,,,,, and it won't open the wound back up when you remove the tape.
Sounds like a big contraption. Yes. I'm sure it was a make shift bandage with a little piece of shop towel under it. Happens a lot :)
Hello Tito. Very clean install and motivates me to try the same. However, I do have a concern. Since the struts are glued to essentially a strip of the RV covering, it seems the longevity and strength of the entire system is dependent upon when that strip of the roof covering will degrade or tear off the roof?
Thanks for making these awesome videos!
Great mounting design Tito! I’ve been contemplating a very similar design. Two things.. I suggest using hole-less aluminum Unistrut. The hole-less strut won’t expose the VHB tape and the aluminum strut will reduce galvanic corrosion and weight. Also I’m going to research VHB tape to see if there’s any issue with it having any compatibility reactions to Sikaflex or other sealants. I’m a little worried about the sealant degrading the perimeter of the VHB.
Let us know what you find. Here's the VHB tape I used: amzn.to/3uY0UkJ Yes. Aluminum Unistrut would be ideal for those reasons. It's pretty expensive too.
Holeless Unistrut is 4x the price, Michael. How about using the same as Tito did .. but glue/seal it to the roof with silicone adhesive instead of tape, sealing all the holes?
You are my hero I didn't want to make holes in my RV that's the perfect solution for me thank you
You are fortunate to have a roof that is flat enough so the tape touches everywhere. Nicely done!
Thanks. Yes. The roof is great. There's a slight curve too.
Looks awesome! Love the “no holes in the roof” install. Great deal on those panels. How much weight did that add to the rig?
I’m curious to know the weight too.
The full weight of the panels, wiring and electronics would be a very interesting piece of information to know.
56 lbs ea for total 224 lbs + the hardware...
Manolo is correct. 50ish pounds each. I'll get some of that back removing the two tube TVs in the rig :) but then come the batteries and inverter.
@@RVwithTito The weight up high is the real problem. The 2 tube TVs are probably up near the roof, so that will help. The batteries and inverter will be low, so no problem there.
I don't see a roof air conditioner. I am in the process of removing my 2 units after putting in a mini-split.
Hi Tito, excellent job and direction as always with your video presentations. However being a retired aerospace engineer testing has always been part of a design. After-all having a warm fuzzy feeling the solar panels won’t be in my rear view merrier is priceless. It would be interesting to know at what load value the VHB tape will fail. If I’m traveling at 60 MPH and a head wind of 40 MPH, (100 MPH load on the panel) I’d like to know the panels have a safety margin of 1.5. Combine that with ~ five years of summer sun and winter freezing, how does the VHB tape hold up?
Forgive me for over thinking this but see when we would send a satellite into space, there is no “re-do” allowed, can’t bring it back and try something else.
Keep up your wonderful videos. 🇺🇸
Super project! Thanks for sharing with us! Your videos are always top notch!!
Don't worry about moisture affecting VHB tape. Just make sure you bond clean to clean.
VHB tape is the sole attachment for ocean-crossing yachts windows, and skyscraper windows 100 stories up in the air.
After about 48 hours, you'll need a six foot wrecking bar to move it.
Great to see something different when it comes to solar panels, very unusual to see such large panels on an RV (not that there’s anything wrong with it). As for the mounting galvanized steel channels, I’m sure you noticed that many are using the aluminum 80-20 system to mount roof solar, I wander what are your thoughts on how the two methods compare.
Yeah. 80-20 or aluminum strut channel is great and light weight options. Both are more expensive too. I liked being able to quickly and easily source these channels locally.
Great mounting system on those massive solar panels. I'll probably borrow that idea on my next RV Solar system.
Awesome you are a PRO, thank you for making this videos, I don't own an RV unfortunately, but I enjoy watching all your content very well produced and informative, once again thank you for all the work you do.
(Update) Forgot to add the VHB tape link in the description. Here it is: amzn.to/3BtD0jC
(I needed two rolls)
Thanks for the link.. got some in the cart now.. I am trying to make up a hand pivot / track of a couple of solar panels but not finding what I need/want... two way pivot for the top center.
Brian, is VHB tape suitable for EPDM roofs? I recall you used to use “elastibond” tape or something like that? After watching your vids and using my 100W panel I got @ costco on this Lone Rock trip, I now want to upgrade my 5er with solar. Just that one little panel really makes a difference with our stay. Only running the gen for microwave use. Thanks in advance.
Great job Tito. I have an AirStream and don’t like the idea of drilling holes on the roof
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@@jimsjacob Eternabond
There are different grades of VHB. I would select VHB 5952 over the RP62 you specified. More expensive, better adhesion. Surface prep of course is key and I would recommend 3M 111 Clear tape primer solvent as well.
I will be so scared of using a tape to mount the solar panels. I know it’s rated plus you used a caulking but still ….: 🤷🏻♂️ I really want to see the part of the mppt battery and inverter 👍
It's coming. Needed to get the panels mounted first. It's raining now.
The tape is used to hold glass into frames on skyscrapers. Its stronger then a mechanical connection.
Brian, you are the MAN!! Your videos are always very informative. Thanks for all the work you do!! Blessings
Nice, I've been looking at those very panels for around my house and on my living quarters horse trailer. Didn't want to drill into the aluminum sheet roof, now I know how to attach. Thanks, great information.
Always love the way that you do your projects and this one was particularly good for me because I’m evaluating how I’m going to do a solar system on the top of my new cargo trailer which I have ladder racks that I’m planning on mounting the solar panels to and those channels that you have there are going to be perfect I think so I’m going to have to do an inventory now but thank you so much for your detailed work there!
by far the coolest RV project i've seen excellent work.
Perfect Brian, exactly what I need. I am upgrading our system, new panels, charge controller and lithium. You’ve been a great help over the years, thanks. Come visit us in Paso Robles, room to park the rig.
Great job Brian, That VHB tape is amazing and great idea using the rivnuts. Cheers.
I love my vanguard auto satalite finder on rainy days it comes in handy !
Phenomenal! - I have a 2004 29B Winnebago and have been dreading drilling into the roof to install a 600W kit I got (I have always set them on the ground). Now, I will definitely attach them the same way you did, maybe with a little more clearance. Great Video Tito!
Thanks. Glad it helped give you some ideas.
Very Slick Tito! Great to see your helper too! Its always better together.
:) I definitely needed some help with these monsters.
Great video. I put two flexible solar panels on my camper using the track system from your other video and they are still holding strong. Thanks again.
Mine are too. Thanks for following up!
Awesome Video Tito. So simple and clean VHB is amazing.
Well Tito, you continue to impress. Nice work. Looking forward to the wiring and electronics. FYI, Unistrut makes a fiberglass version too. I'm glad you painted those steel pieces, as that particular "galvanized" plating can rust (especially at the cut ends).
Thanks for the video. Brilliant job. I will recommend this install to a mate of mine who is building a large house. He might be able to install his panels on the roof with your method. You have a new subscriber.
As always Tito, phenomenal job man.
Great video Tito, thank you!! I never knew about Rivet Nuts - that opens a whole new world of possibilities!!
Watched several of your solar panel install videos. Looks like you nailed it on this one imho. I’ve installed a 8kw ground diy so I’ve used rails and anchors but ive seen videos on using the unistruts. I like how you used the strut and the tape to anchor it on the roof, and you custom brackets to keep a low profile, very nice. You have a good sense on a tidy install and put some wonderful thought in your builds. enjoy!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
I like the mounting system, you do a great job making it look easy.
Thanks. Works great and very strong. You can find lots of accessories for Unistrut mounts.
Nice idea to use the riv-nuts to mount the brackets to the panels.
Strong work. You've generated more ideas in my brain with your video. Thanks for sharing this!
Glad to hear it. 👍
I love this mounting system! Thanks for the video!
Brian you make everything look so easy. It's such a pleasure to watch you work. Even though I don't know what I'm doing, I feel I could take your video into my local hardware store and say sell me some of these, and one of those please, and it would be easy :)
Yes. True. Except for the rivnuts, I got everything else from my local home store.
Another great video you explain each step and offer good thoughts as to why you did things that way .it certainly always gives me an insight to my RV projects thanks
Hello!
I highly appreciate your videos, very inspirational!
I'm an over the road trucker and will be using your videos to build my solar system.
Much appreciated!
Awesome. Have you seen Merlin Solar panels? They are expensive but could be a good fit for you. merlinsolar.com/tractor-semi-class-8
just fantastic, Tito. Thanks. You share so many great methods of creating clever solutions.
Thanks. Glad to share.
Hey Brian, another excellent install. Your videos inspire me. Plus, having links to the actual products used is extremely helpful. Many thanks.
You bet. Glad to help.
Outstanding attention to detail... very nice! Love the amount of energy it will produce! Product selection
Also seems great!
It's been a great setup so far producing lots of power.
Wish i had done my Winnebago this way. Hell of a job!