MASSIVE Savings With The Senville AURA Mini Split
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Senville Dual Zone Heat Pump: amzn.to/4dac4ry
America's #1 Choice For Quality, Affordable HVAC Equipment: Alpinehomeair.com
All my favorite HVAC tools: www.amazon.com...
Do you own a service business and need a customer management software?
Housecall Pro is the BEST CRM for small businesses and can save you so much time with scheduling, onboarding new customers, sending estimates etc.
Use my link to get 50% off the first 2 months: housecallpro.p...
Join our channel membership to gain access to exclusive HVAC training videos AND x10 entries for our monthly giveaways!! NO PURCHASE NEEDED. Prizes are valued anywhere between $500-$2000!
Join here: / @diyhvacguy
IF YOU ARE IN NEED OF ONE ON ONE GUIDANCE WITH YOUR HVAC SYSTEM, whether it is diagnosing a bad part, replacing your system, or help with sizing, check out our membership program here: / diyhvacguy
For a low price of $400, you will get assistance from myself when it comes to your hvac needs, whether it's sizing, diagnosing, or locating the correct equipment.
Here Is Where I Order All My Air Filters:
filterbuy.com/...
Follow us for more diy hvac tips & to enter for our giveaways!
Instagram: / diy_hvac_guy
Tiktok: www.tiktok.com...
Facebook: / selfmadehvac
⚠️ Disclaimer:
This video is for educational purposes. Any and all HVAC repair work is done at your own risk. Any person attempting to deal with any type of refrigerant MUST have their EPA 608 certificate. The DIY HVAC Guy channel is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of the provided information.
The DIY HVAC GUY is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
Since last year I've bought and installed a Senville 9K BTU Leto and a 24K BTU Aura in my home and a Senville 24K BTU Aura in my shop for Cooling and heating. They have Great Customer Service. Bought all the tools for installation and Learned how to install these units on CZcams with channels like yours. Thanks
With the 24K in the shop we saved almost 50% of the heating costs over the year before. This coming winter I'll be testing the new 24K in the house..
Amazing! Thanks for sharing!
So do we know how these Midea built Senville compare to the also Midea built Mr Cool is one using cheaper components or are they identical?
I second on senville having great customer service!
@@RH-nc8uu Have no clue... Just the name "Mr Cool" sounds like a cheap knock off to me. Senville is a local company so I bought from them.
@@diyhvacguy FYI you should use nylog when you are flaring the copper as a lubricant. Just put it on the cone part of the tool.
Hello!
First, let me say that I LOVE all of your videos! Second, I used to work as an electrician in mining industries in the 70's. I wanted to mention something about the wires at 10:33. I saw the legend but the way we used to deal with colored wires was to match them to numbers in alphabetical order according to color:
Black begins with the letter "B", White -"W" and so on.
So,
TB 1 = (B) Black
TB 2 = (R) Red
TB 3 = (W) White
Alphabetical order! Never have to remember or write things down! I don't know if this will work for everything in the HVAC industry but thought I would humbly suggest it!
Best Wishes and Take Care,
Tom
The order of the Wires is what Senville asks for.
@@lasersbee - As I mentioned, "I saw the legend" and totally agree but for other applications it may be useful. Kind Regards,
Tom
That's a good tip, I like that concept
@@michaelcollins5438 - Thank You Sir!
The crimped connectors on the wire ends are a makeshift ferrals, best for stranded wires.
I just recently put in 7 of these ranging from 9k to 18k in ny home and pole barn/shop. They are super efficient and work fantastic. Plus since they are energy star you can claim a tax credit on them.
lol - a ground rod is not an effective ground to clear a fault. Need to run the copper wire back to the main panel. nice install and looks awesome. Have any videos that talk about using a ducted minisplit to replace standard ac that sites on top of a furnace?
Yeah I don’t get that lack of ground. I don’t think that meets code. Should be bonded to ground at the panel.
The ground rod will not clear a ground fault, and if there is a ground fault,the condenser will be live voltage,and could kill someone who touches it.
It needs an equipment ground wire run back to the panel to clear a fault.
why would a ground rod at the unit be any different from the ground rod at the panel when it comes to popping the breaker or fuse
@@honemorrison4013 the ground rod at the panel is connected to the ungrounded conductor with the system bonding jumper, creating a low resistance path to trip the breaker in case of a ground fault. A ground rod at best has 20 ohms resistance,and a ground fault with only a ground rod will only pass 4 -5amps,,,and not nearly enough to trip the breaker.
Bonded to the grounded conductor ( neutral),,,not ungrounded,,
@@TimJessen-b9v gotcha
The drain is not meant to go that way behind the head unit. There should be a plug on the unit near the hole you made that can be removed and put to the other side. Also if you remove the outer shell of the wall unit you can seal the hole behind the unit and will prevent more dust entering
Thank you again David! I don't now if you all can appreciate the difference in noise level in our house without the window units. We even had a portable 12000 BTU unit upstairs to help the window unit. this split system is game changing! Our little thermostat on the other side of the room matches what the unit says if not one degree colder. And to get rid of those death trap heaters was a bonus as well.
we couldn't be happier with it.
I have this same unit installed in our 1800 square foot pole barn, and it does a great job at heat and cooling. Worth every penny to upgrade from their base 17 seer model. We had the base model installed first, and it couldn't keep up, so we added the Aura, and now we never use the 17 seer model. The Aura is built like a 3 ton unit, but sold as a 2 ton. The inside unit, and outside units are much bigger than the 17 seer unit. It pulls the same wattage also, so you do get what you pay for.
I love my minisplits/heatpumps. They are far superior to any of my conventional 4 ton units by a long shot
You have made me want to get my 608 and start working on hvac’s. You make it easy to understand and I’ve been in tech all my life and about to retire. This looks fun!! The power flare tool rocked…I love anything that makes things efficient…not fast I take my time, but efficient and the best work product possible. Great job! I’m about to install an eg4 24k with solar. Looking forward to it…great videos! The more detail the better.
Where the lines need to be bent I use old 14 wire grounds and wrap them around the piping. I wrap them so they're 1/4" apart and electrical tape the ends to the tubing. It prevents the tubing from kinking. It works well for me. The ground needs to be tied into the house ground somewhere, otherwise it won't clear a fault and trip the breaker, you'll only get overload and dead short protection.
So this is basically a rebranded Midea All Eazy Pro Mini Split. Very good and efficient units!
Yes, it looks identical to a Bosch also
At 14:57 you seem to wrap the high and low pressure lines together in one insulation covering. Shouldn't these be separated to avoid heat transfer between them?
master electrician here - i admire your dedication to a high quality install, however the ground rod is next to useless. the purpose of ground rods is to create an equipotential plane with the utility provider and the structure it’s connected to. an equipment grounding conductor is what you were missing, and its job is to carry ground fault current back to the service where the ground and neutral are connected, this creates a complete circuit and allows a breaker to trip in the event of a ground fault. how you have it set up, unfortunately will not clear a ground fault, and the disconnect box and ac condenser will be live (120v) in the event of a ground fault. to rectify this, a ground must be ran to the panel where that electric strip heat breaker is.
The drill bit flaring tools work well for these mini split connections. There's another video (forgot the source at this point) which compared all of the flaring tools and examined the results under a microscope and it turns out that those old-style flaring tools leave micro-scratches which eventually lead to leaks. The drill flares and the orbital flares performed the best, as I recall. Best practice is use to Nylog Blue regardless of which method you use to help with leak potential on all flared connections.
Hola 👋 señor Dave!!! That was a great video very informative and educational and the best of all was that you showed the process of the installation …You are the best in A/C keep up the great work and content…You have a great day and weekend…Saludos!!!! 👋😃👋
If you read that torque spec in the manual as "50 foot-pounds" rather than what it says, "50 Newton-meters," you will over-torque that fitting by 14 foot-pounds, or in other words, by about 40%. just say'n
I should have bought the Aura. I got the Senville Leto and could benefit from the added efficiency of the Aura in the winter. But the Leto still paid for itself in about 2 years, compared to using my oil furnace in Canada where oil is heavily taxed but hydroelectric power is dirt cheap. I have to run the oil furnace about 5 days a year in winter when it drops to like -5C outside, which is not very much oil thankfully. Aura would eliminate the need for the oil furnace altogether. My Leto is 24k, but 28k would have been a better size. I have 9k unit I plan to put in the master suite on solar-battery but honestly the 24k unit heats the whole main floor pretty well on its own, however the cold air does not reach the master suite on hot days in summer (but even in a heat wave our nights are 65F outside)
Must run a ground conductor back to panel which is bonded to neutral conductor which runs back to original source out in street. Even the ground rod that is used for the service is supplemental in case the neutral is lost
Need to run a ground wire back to panel.
Love Senville - been using their products for a few years now without issues.
if you check that ground connection its not really a ground connection thats just a place for lightning to go. it actually needs to be bonded at the main panel just letting you know.
DIY HVAC GUY: Tell me you are in Central CA. And I’ll have you do this in our home. Our BEHEMOTH roof mounted HVAC gave up 3 days ago. We already know we’re going with a mini split technology!
The outdoor unit should be elevated off the pad for defrost cycle in the heat mode to let the water run off so you don’t get ice build up and cause damage to the coil when it freezes oops very important info for your diy people
Please do us a favor. I, and others, use extensions in our browsers that do not show those on screen links you point to. Some also use a popular browser that has a built in video player that performs the same. Please included those on screen links you point to in the "more" section. Thanks! By the way, I am in the market for a mini split system and I'm so glad I found your video on this particular brand.
Love an install showing the cut and flare steps. Likely going down that route with a 24k Blueridge S5, which seems to be one of the best 10-40F heating performers.
Question: do you ever do nitrogen pressure tests? Seems like maybe a best practice to ensure no leaks?
I like your videos you ever work on Mitsubishi? I was wondering why does the Mitsubishi 24k h2i model MUZ-GS24nahz have such a high cooling and heating capacity compared to other 24k Mitsubishi models?
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL
Hi the diy hvac guy i replaced my condenser fan motor ran into a very big problem the fan blade was rusted onto the shaft i had to cut the shaft from the old motor drill a hole in the shaft with a lot of hammering it came out it took me 30 min to get that shaft loose. My condenser runs like new now.
Really nice well thought out unit and installation.
✌️😜 Always very detailed info, giving even novices hope they can pull it off🤣Thanks Brother 💒⚔️ God Bless us All 🇺🇸🙏✝️
Did this not come with an insert for the bore you made thru the wall?
it must have taken a lot of time to film this so I will need to give you a thumbs up just for that. Very informatiive. Pls comment on senville quality vs other industry leaders such as gree, daikin and mitsubishi or are they on another level and shouldn't be compared?
Just installed 150 of them in an upgraded military barracks building at Ft. Stewart GA. Their last AC/heaters were like 40 years old.
Only one serious problem with splits that I found was how messed up with fungus and other crap the blower wheels can get. Takes 3-4 years but boy can they get plugged up with stuff, it can even effect the blower out put. They are hard to clean, those blower wheels. They only tell you to clean those simple filters which I found rarely dirty. I still love mine though.
They make like a mini pressure washer. Clean it once a year and you're probably OK.
I have a mini split cleaning kit. It's basically a bag that goes over the indoor unit with a drain hose that goes into a bucket. Spray down the entire handler with coil cleaner and spray it out with a pump sprayer. You'll be amazed what comes out of it.
@@sailingwiththegods538 Still does not clean as well as taking the blower all the way out and cleaning, which is not easy but is the best way..
Can't even clean the heating elements or AC ducts in our home so this can't be any worse maintenance wise.
@@chrissignal8857 I have lived in my home for 50 years and not once cleaned the ducts. I always changed my filter regularly. These duct cleaning companies are rip offs. But splits collect fungus and mold because of the moisture in the air. I live in Wa. state so more of a problem then a dry climate.
You need a true ground wire back to main panel, not to the actual earth. That will not clear a fault and actually kill someone. This is install is a huge liability.
Separately you did not do a nitrogen pressure test for leaks. The system works under pressure and a pressure test will proactively find the issues.
Yea that's a huge issue. Clearly there's misunderstanding of what a grounding conductor actually does.
Wouldn’t it be better to Y both sides of the drains so there’s never a drainage problem, heard some rust on inside with only one drain hole used…
Also could use pvc for drain with adapter where possible.
Corrugated tubing always builds up bacteria, it’s flexible, but definitely not durable and on longer runs that’s definitely not long enough supplied from the factory.
The LETO 12,000 I just purchased and installed did not have a template, the AURA 18,000 I purchased last year did. If I were to turn back my clock I would only buy AURA models.
what about a sleeve going to the wall for the line set seemed like that something missing
You don't have to remove the Schrader valve. The procedure is still the same.
Thanks for the great explanation. Well done.
Did you not have to add refrigerant to make up for the additional head unit/line set?
great vid thank you, i gotta do potentially 6-7 of these. What's your thoughts on the nitrogen test? one one hand most company install docs only mention vacuum. (but pioneer on their site does mention pressure testing...just not in the install doc. I also see the point in hey it can check for leaks under pressure, but at the pressure these new refrigerants operate (and that they will likely fail at some point anyways down the road due to that..just common sense) , some say only test at few hundred psi for basic leaks (which i mean is it really a test unless you take it to 475-600 whatever the particular unit runs at) or are you really just risking blowing some nitro past the refrigerant shutoffs. To me if you're not gonna run a test up to 600 or whatever , the question becomes for basic leak checking is a micron test equivalent to a few hundred psi nitro. I also really wonder if you do a full nitro pressure test and it's not in their install docs and they going to blame that when you discover a leak or something.
Love how you clearly did not follow the electrical connection instruction, it's pictured (L-R) Red Black White and you did Red White Black )I know it technically doesn't matter as long as it matches on the other end but if someone comes and repair it in the future, it could cause issue
oh my.. First love the flip flops :-0 second, that THHN was just bare in the wall? No ground? No conduit? No Romex? That really should have been fixed!
Hey nice video tutorial
You said two 30 amp
Did you mean two 15 amp fuses ?
Nice units I’m going to look into one
Next time a digital torque wrench would be the way.
Awesome video!
What happens to Mr Cool diy precharged systems in 2025 with new refrigerant requirement?
O U T S T A N D I N G !
I have a similar layout in my second story of my house. Out of curiosity, is there any reason you didn't put the upstairs headunit where the window A/C was?
Love these multi zone mini split units
Just a correction 😎 @14:34 torque specs are in Nm (Newton Meters), not ft. lbs.
You should install a sleeve through the wall to seal the insulation to stop moisture infiltration into the wall cavity.
Filters on those units are piss poor filters. Rock catchers only.
I like the safety flip flops in the video. Did you have a link for that?
Is it possible to mount the head on an interior wall and run the line set down the wall to the basement or crawl space then out to the condenser ? Do you have any videos showing that ?
Yes, you can do that. No problem.
@17:31..If you install a fused disconnect make sure you buy an extra couple of fuses and give them to your wife for safe keeping, so that when one or both of the fuses blow at 1AM in the morning on some hot idle Tuesday ten years from now and you realize "there are no stores open on the 4th of July at this time of the morning" all the while thinking "it's been ten years with no problems, how was I suppose to know". As the temperature in the house rises and a sense of doom builds, you shout "it's not my fault, it's not my fault". From the bedroom, in a loud voice, you hear your wife say "if it's the fuses honey, they are in the junk drawer in the kitchen right where I told you I was going to put them oh so long ago, probably all the way in the back by now, I,m going back to sleep, You can thank me later". As she closes her eyes, she smiles to herself and thinks back to that time.."it was such a silly comment, How could they have known"...
@@denverbraughler3948You are correct, There is no reason to use a fused disconnect for this system and, no reason not to, except maybe for cost and/or availability. If you do install this system as shown with a fused disconnect, and forget the extra fuses you will eventually find yourself in a situation similar to the one in my comment which, by the way, was all about the disconnect. (@17:31..If you install a fused disconnect ).. Thank You...
Hey bud, wicked videos. I was curious if you have any videos regarding my AC unit continuously running even though it hits the temperature. I have it set to 73, and it constantly runs. It may shit off once every now and then, but for the most part, it's always on
My understanding is that it continues to run to remove moisture from the air. It doesn’t continue to run in heat mode
The auxiliary ground rod is a bad idea! Wasn’t there an equipment grounding conductor available? If lightning strikes you are intentionally sending voltage up that ground rod, through the home and down the service ground
Numbered wiring tape is your friend.
Good job Dave, thank you!
i have a problem with the hvac unit and its not cooling if the fresh air intake is unblocked also some of the other units also wont cool and the contractor will just have them fixed for a week and the problem will happen again
What are the dimensions of the styrofoam/concrete pad?
decent setup
Does the unit come pre-charged with enough refrigerant for custom line set lengths? I assumed you would need to add more refrigerant for long line sets.
These will come with enough refrigerant for up to a specified total line length. For example up to 88 feet so as long as all zones added together do not total 88 feet your good. All mini splits single or multi have a min and max line lengh without having to adjust charge. The Daikin 12k units I install have a min 8ft to max 33ft
Is that 25ft charge for one line set or all the line sets combined seems like you’d have more than 25ft between both those heads
Dude. That install is dangerous. A ground rod cannot be used for EGC (equipment ground conductor) because the earth is not a low impedance path that is needed to clear a ground fault. You need to run a wire back to the panel.
Did the senville come with shrader core removed or was there a reason you removed it as part of install? I installed a single head DIY pioneer unit using almost the exact same steps but my shrader valve failed to close upon removal of my gauges/vacuum pump. Ended up loosing about 20% of refrigerant. Then had to find a tech that would even touch mini splits to recover and recharge to factory spec (since you can't really check charge on these). Had I used a procedure like you did (including the core isolation/removal tool), it would have saved me the cost of tech and recharge. Just wondering where you got idea to remove and re-add shrader valve.
No he removed it with the Appion MGAVCR Mega Flow Vacuum Rated Valve Core Removal Tool - 5/16" System Connection
Great video!
They already are out of this system or discontinued.
Senville Aura v Cooper and Hunter Astoria: samething?
Where did you purchase that micron gauge shut off valve that u connected to the 5/16 appion tool
That’s over flaring blockers old school you should not be using them anymore for these high-pressure units. You need to use the ones that machine the flare.
The line sets you were using do not look like the Senville provided product.
You make great reviews. Please create one realworld comparison between R410a, R22 and R32 refrigerant systems.
Whats the best universal system for these side discharge inverters ?
It's not 50 ft/lbs that's way too tight. If you look its referencing newton meters in the manual.
Is it not necessary to pressure test with nitrogen?
You said massive savings-what did the equipment cost?
Two grand. Probably what they spend on one year on those electric strip heats in the winter!!
@@diyhvacguy Thanks for your response: How many tons?
Minimum is 500 micron. When i install mini’s I pull them down to double digits…
Go smoke
Can both air handlers run at the same time?
Yes. But obviously both must be in either heating or cooling mode.
Sir. I followed your link to Amazon for this unit. The description for the unit says: WHAT’S INCLUDED: Includes indoor air handlers, outdoor condenser and installation kit with 16ft. line set and communication wire. Important note: requires professional installation. So it only comes with 16 ft line set. I followed the link on Amazon to the Senville store and they do not list line sets longer than 16 ft. I need a 25 ft and a 35 ft for my application. Ideas? Anyone?
It's only soft copper pipe, any hardware store will have it. You can use regular pipe insulation to insulate it. You can also buy a competitors brand of piping as long as the sizes are the same.
Would you hold senville over C&H or about the same?
Same unit different sticker
@@anthony5530 would Della fall in the same boat? I recall most are made by Midea
Nice install
"Window Unit"
oh, the irony, LoL
Nice set up. Here's the thing that yanks my chain when installers show up. They don't care how the installation looks. They cut corners. They are not considerate to a customers preferences which all the above should take priority. You see how you looped that electrical wire up on the siding of the House, sticking out like a soar thunb??? Why didnt you run it at from the bottom very low, or just below the house siding, and achor it on tbe concrete foundation, butted against tbe bottom of the siding, then go straight up to tbe electrical junction box??? That's how you should have done it. Not looped around like a Shepard hook running across the house siding, anchoring, and btw, damaging the house siding - to that electrical junction box. Please ask a customer what they'd rather have before you ASSUME they want it like that. Seriousely. It's not rocket science. It's common sense.
Depends how much the installer is charging which determines how many installs they have to complete by the end of the day. Under valuing ones self undermines the customer in every aspect other than the price tag itself
Yikes! That is not a legal ground method in any US jurisdiction.
You poor thing.
Natural gas heat is cheaper
❤
They have no built in em heat. Getting a heat pump mini split, it gets anywhere under 35 degrees is a waste of money if you want to heat with it. Your condenser outside will just freeze up, making the unit throw an error code an stop working. They are great for cooling. Garbage for heating anywhere it gets really cold. Which is why you dont see heat pump units up north. Unless they are duel fuels using a gas furnace as em heat instead of electric heat
Disagree. I have a Senville 24k Aura installed in a high elevation cabin. It gets to below -10°F and still heated efficiently this past winter. Power usage was 1/2 of what the electric baseboards have been in previous years. The Aura has a pan heater to remove any ice buildup around the bottom of condensing unit. Works great.
The Leto range will struggle below freezing, but the Aura can handle really cold temps and keep heating with OK efficiency. Now if you mean actually really cold - like -30C or below 0F like it can get on the northern prairies, then you probably are a candidate for a dual fuel central HVAC or just have your old gas/electric/oil furnace for backup to the ductless, or just some baseboard heaters for those ultra cold nights.
I live in NY and use my 5 year old Aura all winter and it heats perfectly fine down to 0F, and falls off below that. The condensers don't freeze up, when the coils get iced over the unit runs the cooling cycle for a minute or two to force heat into the condenser to melt the ice, and a pan heater. It only freezes up around 20-30f, when it gets below 20 it doesn't freeze up much. There are A LOT of mini splits being used up north, I don't know where you heard they're not. We do need supplemental heat when it gets below zero but that's not a surprise. I went from 6 cords of firewood down to 1 and the mini split costs less to heat compared to firewood too.
At the end of the video, he says, "Hey alexa". I lost all interest in this product.
I’m a builder in ct. I used these in every home with no issues after having problem with Mitsubishi u its
The thing that bothers me is R410A it's expensive and gonna be phased out... they the (environmental morons) have totally screwed up air-conditioning and refrigeration... and yes I have a mini-split on my house, R410A, I would of paid double to have a R22 system.. I did AC/Ref.. work for thirty years...
Yup. Everything the Left touches, they destroy!
please lose the adjustable wrenches
Hola 👋 señor Dave!!! That was a great video very informative and educational and the best of all was that you showed the process of the installation …You are the best in A/C keep up the great work and content…You have a great day and weekend…Saludos!!!! 👋😃👋