#1 Reason Why DUCTLESS Units Fail | How I Fix It...
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I've got a customer with an Ameristar ductless heat pump mini split that is leaking refrigerant. In this video I show my troubleshooting and repair process to get the system leak free. Hope you enjoy the video, LET'S DO SOME WORK!!
#skilledtrades #hvacrepairs #ductlessminisplit
Nah fam, as soon as you remove the old flare I would recommend redoing the flare. I know it might look good but that flare was already pressed down when they tried to torque it. That’s just my way of doing it. I don’t trust others flaring other than my own.
fieldpiece advert?
Usually, once a guy has made a poor quality flare on the outside, you need to make new flares and on the indoor unit as well. Take this advice from colleague from Bulgaria with 24yrs. experience with this type of AC units.
Mini-splits with their flares were designed to sell refrigerant, I feel. I had a fitting that leaked for years, despite re-flaring twice and torqueing perfectly to spec. Out of desperation, I finally just hoses it down with bubble fluid, backed the nut off and then re-cranked, going way past the specified torque and watching the bubbles. After a pretty good amount of torque, the bubbles tapered off and stopped and it hasn't leaked since (at least 4 years now).
The problem with flares is that people are so afraid of leaks that they tend to over tight the flares
Love how organized you are and put everything away immediately after using. Saves a LOT of time trying to find "misplaced" equipment and tools.
What ??? No Channel Locks, Wise Grips or a 12"Adjustable Wrench and a $86.00 Vacuum Pump - Gauge Set Combo Kit like most other experts here on U-Tube !!! It pays to have the correct tools including the knowledge how to use them , not to mention, well organized and kept clean.., But I did see one hair out of place in your beard ... I am surprised that thy were aloud to install the condenser unit so close to a Gas Meter and pressure regulator..
One note: anytime you're using a torque wrench you can't re position the wrench when you're close to the torque spec. If you're trying to hit 10 ft/lbs but stop at 9 ft/lbs and reposition the wrench, the wrench will hit 10 ft/lbs and click without tightening the nut at all because it takes more torque to get it started tightening again, so you will still be at 9. That also means multiple clicks on a torque wrench does not work for checking if something is properly torqued. It takes like 130-140% of the torque load to get the nut moving again.
Personal preference, but if it can be done... get that mini-split off the ground. Three feet is nice. Coil picks up less dust & debris, isn't eating sprinkler water for breakfast, peed on by the neighbors dog in winter, etc. In countries where these are the norm, its not uncommon to see them hung where only a ladder can get to them because it slows down most common thieves plus its nearly a straight shot on hookup.
You said you had 50 psi of I’m assuming 410A refrigerant in the system. Then you just added nitrogen to that? If so, you were supposed to recover 410A refrigerant first. If you need more pressure, you add more 410A refrigerant, then you recover it ALL once you find the leak. Then you repair the leak.
Every leak I have seen on one of these systems has been at the flare, either inside or outside. On one job, I followed a well known local contractor who used "Leak Lok" on the flares. Good flares, and oil only, for me.
Dude! You're a PRO. I owned a residential swimming pool business and this is the caliber of organization and step by step troubleshooting and repair that I always aimed for.
I am enjoying watching you "living" the truck life for service. I started that way and as much as I loved it when I got in a service van I just couldn't justify anything less than a service body. Now after years retired and helping my son get his start with NO new vehicles available in Ca. I find myself back in the truck life looking for that storage unit/garage to call the shop. I will be interested in seeing how you build out that truck, I am a big fan of the deck drawer and matching top system myself if it's just a single trade. If you do go to any of the deck systems buy a rebuild kit for the pullout rollers/latches/locks etc, 2-3 years down the road you will thank yourself when you don't have a 500# plus drawer slamming around until you get replacement parts.
Great video. I'm retired now 5 years after 40 years. Fieldpiece has come along way. I still have one of their VOMs.
Excellent CZcamsr. I like the way you fast forward, elapse time, save the fewer''s time, but you get the main issues across. Good fortune!
Im not an HVAC person at all but I love learning how to diagnose and fix things (or at least know what to tell a specialist.) I appreciate you taking the mystery out of it and your editing is really on point
Experience is invaluable when doing flares. I used to use a drop of oil on the flaring cone. For 410 a drop of nylog. Experience might let you not use a torque wrench to tighten. For most use the torque wrench to tighten to specs. Also i coat both sides of the flare with nylog. The only leak i ever had was a siding contractor hit the condensor unit outside after a unit was a couple years old and it leaked. Great advice in this video
Loved your video, I always like to watch detailed oriented guys. I work automotive A/C systems since I was in my twenties and being organized and detailed oriented helps you to get it well done the first time.
Well done, wish all service people were this thorough and professional.
Nice vid bro as always. One suggestion on my Sman Guages it tells you to put the temp clamp on the suction line in order to self adjust the pressure drop based off of line temp. Not sure if yours has this feature but makes me more confident in my flares! And keeps me from guessing if the small pressure drops were from my hoses leaking or line temp changing.