Crank Length Experiment - Getting experiMENTAL with 170, 165, 160, and 155mm Cranks
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- čas přidán 6. 06. 2024
- Crank length, does it matter? Today we get experiMENTAL to find out. We're using Canfield's cranks in 170mm, 165mm, 160mm, and 155mm lengths to see how they feel. This experiment really surprised me. For reference, I'm 5'6" tall with a 28" inseam.
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Huge shout-out to Steve for having an open mind and taking the time to do this video! We've been proponents of the benefits of shorter cranks for a long time, and of course, every body and riding style is different. But there's a good chance you've been riding cranks that are too long.
To add a little context to crank length vs. gearing, the four things that effect your gear ratio are: 1. front ring, 2. rear cassette, 3. wheel and tire overall diameter and 4. crank length. A shorter crank arm is a shorter lever with less mechanical advantage. So, for every 10mm shorter you go on your crank length, it is mathematically equivalent to going approx. two teeth bigger on your front ring. That's why it felt harder for Steve to get up the steeper climbs and he had to shift down with the shorter cranks.
However, you are also spinning smaller circles, which feels easier and negates some of the perceived increase in effort.
So, if you want to change crank length and maintain similar gearing, you may want to consider changing your chainring as well. But for the sake of this video, keeping the cranks as the only variable was excellent for a side-by-side comparison!
You guys rock. Thanks for supporting the channel and making this video possible. I learned WAY more than I thought I would. A few other things I picked up on (that I'm sure you know about):
- The longer cranks mean your pedal is higher at the 12 o'clock position, meaning an increased bend at the hips. This is why it was engaging my hip flexors more. We adjust our saddles to the 6 o'clock position to get proper leg extension, but we don't often think about the effect crank length has on our 12 o'clock position. This was eye-opening to me.
- Shorter cranks make your seat angle feel steeper. Here's my theory: With 155mm cranks, the 2-3 o'clock position (which I assume is where the most power is generated) is closer to the bb. So it's not quite as far in front of you as with 175mm cranks. That makes the seat angle feel steeper at this part of the stroke, since it feels like you're more "on top" of this position, than behind it. That was fascinating as well.
It's time people think about crank length beyond pedal strikes.
So that mean if i were to run 155 mm Cranks with 30 T chainring it will have similar performance of 34/36 with 170/175 crank .
@@mumenraider sort of. You'll use the same range of the cassette that you use now. But you'll have less leverage.
@@hardtailparty related: I'm 5'9" and I had 175mm cranks on my gravel bike. I thought knee pain was just from the long miles I ride some days. as it turns out, getting the saddle high enough for an efficient downstroke means the pedal was too high at the top due to the length, which was hurting my knees. as soon as I went to 170s, that knee pain went away. I didn't change anything else. TL;DR, it is possible that your cranks are too long but almost impossible that they are too short.
@Canfield Bikes Can we get these cranks in the UK? I"m definitely interested, especially if the BB is included.
I've often said to a friend of mine that demo days for components would be great, wheels, tires, bars, saddles etc...
100%. Outerbike would ROCK with component demos. That's how I fell in love with my ZIPP 3ZERO Motos.
@@hardtailparty I guess a tire demo would tell you what tires are good on that trail on that day. Depending on where you live that might mean they're good year round, here in New Hampshire what's good in July might not be so good in November or April.
@@hardtailparty What's the current update on your experience with shorter cranks? I ask because it's been 9 months since you made this video.
@@nogoogle6349 same thoughts as here. I like the shorter cranks.
Great info. I'm 5'7" been riding with 175 started getting knee pain(72yr old knees) riding 165 no pain and I spin more. Thanks for a great video!
I switched from 170 to 165 and the same for me , knee pain gone , I'm now 62 and 5ft 6
I went from 175 to 170 and knee pain is gone.
I'm 6'2", ride with 175 for years with no pain. I'm 39.
I'm 179cm and SAME! Shorter lengths are easier on the knees.
Sal, did you try widened Q-factor with pedal extenders? Also wrong forward/backward position of foots on the pedals can cause persistent stress to the knees and tendons.
The channel that has helped me have the most fun on the trails. Thank you Steve! Keep the wheels spinning!!! Looking forward to all of your videos!
What an awesome video Steve. First time I have seen this type of test. Love your observations. I guess I assumed there wouldn’t be much difference except that pedal strikes would not happen as often. I will definitely try shorter cranks. Thanks to Canfield as well for sending the cranks to you.
Steve, thank you so much for this incredible content! You really hit it outta the park! I’ve always thought of my cranks as levers, longer equals more mechanical advantage. I’m realizing how short sighted that was, especially now that I’m beating a body in its 40’s. The time and effort you put into these videos is inspiring! I’m definitely gonna try some shorter crank lengths and see how they feel! You are the on the bleeding edge of changing the bicycle industry’s philosophy of fitting bikes. Keep up the hard work, high quality content and your increasing audience will definitely be the bullhorn to get bike manufacturers to listen!
This is really interesting and the explanations are excellent. Your description of clips vs flats at the end was the perfect description. I went from 175 on my previous bike to 170 on my current bike. I’m 5’11 with decently long legs and have felt slower on the 170’s just because I feel like I’m spinning more. But the more I ride them the more I like them.
That was really informative Steve.... thanks. The timing is good too as I'm in the process of buying new cranks. It certainly wont be the default 175s that I've bought over the past 20 years without even considering other options. Keep up the great work.
This video is one of the best crank length comparisons I've found. Very useful, thank you a lot!
Terrific, such a change to get a practical and subjective analysis. The “feel” reporting has helped me decide to shorten my MTB cranks. Thanks 🎉🎉
Awesome video Steve!!!! So good and the little reminder in the lower right showing crank size: brilliant!!
Thanks Tim.
Steve thanks for this video. You may recall we talked about crank length during one of our consultations and you recommended a shorter length because of my size (5'6" with 28" inseam). That recommendation was spot on because it was the only way I could fit a 150 dropper on my Chameleon - medium size frame, seat tube slammed. If I had gone with the 170s on my former bike, I never could have fit the dropper. I really like the 165 and do not miss the 170s, but I may try going to 160s.
Great information Steve! You're definitely uncovering new ideas on bike design! Crank length, chainstays.. They are one-size fits all from X-small to XL on so many bikes. They shouldn't be. Now if we could just devise a reverse fly weight design for the 10mm auto adjusting crank length... Oh, forgot to mention, I'm 6'4" with the torso of someone 6'4"...
Love the content! As a single speeder I would love to see a video on crank length and single speed riding!
I'm 5'9" with 32" inseam and 160mm cranks are absolutely perfect for me. Immediately improved my endurance... didn't expect that and better all around for technical riding.
Very cool and very interesting, thanks Hardtail party and Canfield.
Excellent vid! I put some 170's on my roadie (stock 175) in 2013. Had months of GPS history on a local hill. 175's ave speed 7mph. 170's 9mph. I was exceeding my range of motion! Couldn't start applying power until after TDC. Also, was able to start using the handlebar drops for extended periods. Speed on the flats improved markedly, as well as reduced hip pain.
Nice video! Went from 175 to 170 and now on 165. 6’ and 33” inseam, but the 165 actually feels much better for me riding compared to the longer cranks.
Fantastic video. I agree we need more manufactures with shorter crank lengths. I'd love if sram had 160mm xo1 cranks in 73mm bb.
Thanks for the thorough test! Great info!
Your offhand comment about stem lengths is spot on, too. I borrowed a range of sizes from a buddy when building up my Signal St (you should test one, or its Ti brother) and was amazed at the difference.
Nice work Steve! Great video
I noticed a different in your bike moving in a “bobbing” motion between the 165 and 160’s, it went from semi smooth to smooth. I payed attention to it between the 160 and 155’s, it went from smooth to basically staying still. When you went from the 155 to 170 your bike frame was all over the place, like you were “chopping wood”. This would only lead me to think, that’s a lot more stress and fatigue on your body trying to control the bike front to back with the 170’s, even though you probably didn’t know you were doing it. Great content, I’d love to see a follow up with maybe a 165 with 32t vs a 160/155 with a 30t. You know, just more experimental stuff.
I feel like "chopping wood" engages the hips and quads better. For me, I'm in it for the conditioning, as opposed to minimizing the stress of the ride. Great points about smoothness. If I were competing or on difficult terrain, I can see the benefit of shorter cranks. Now it seems we need more bikes in the quiver. lol
I am 6’2 and have forever, even on my trials bikes as a youth, had 175’s. Just switched to 165’s on my stache a year ago and it has rejuvenated my body on the bike. Also had set pr’s on all my local trails. The handling and spinning are fantastic. Great video Steve!
(Demo stems, cranks and bars YES!)
I’m 6’2 as well and ride a Stache too! What is your inseam, and did you go up or down in crank teeth or stay the same? Thanks!
@@tacomaamocat4309
Sweet! Yeah 42 inseam. I ride a medium. Kept the same chainring. I think a 32, really didn’t notice the ‘higher gear feel’
Thanks for doing this video. As a 5'6" rider with a 30" inseam, I found your comparisons relatable and helpful. I've been riding with 170mm crankarms for years, but for the past couple of weeks, I've been experimenting with some Canfield 155s. I've been a singlespeed rider for over 20 years, but now that I'm in my 60s and crashing more than I used to, I mostly stick to gravel roads and light trails. Like you, I was amazed by how quickly my body adapted to the shorter crank arm length. But even though it feels like I'm working harder on steeper climbs, I'm actually faster with the shorter cranks. In fact, I rode the same 9-mile loop with a long steep climb at the end, 3 minutes faster with the 155s than I did with my 170s. However, as positive as my experience has been, I'm thinking that 160s would be better.
Thanks for doing this review and I couldn’t agree more about having components at demo days. I am 6’7” and trying to find the right stem is always a challenge… it isn’t as simple as get the longest stem. In terms of cranks, I have subscribed to the longer is better, especially on my single speed mtb and single speed CX rigs. You comments about the strain on your hips and knees got my attention because those are both problem areas for me. On my CX race rig, I made the switch to shorter (175mm from 180mm) to help avoid pedal strikes at lower speeds but a side benefit seemed to be less of the dread CX back pain. I am definitely going to play around with this a bit more. Thanks!
I am plowing through your videos and learning so much. More so than GMBN and Pinkbike. Definitely getting 160mm cranks. They're much harder to come by here in the PH though.
I recently went from 175 to 165… i love it 100% / zero desire to go back/ i ride technical cen tex / please do the single speed test while you have all the cranks!
Sweet video! Thanks Steve!
I love that the ol' Paradox is the experiment bike. Hope Banshee is boosting their production for these bad boys, lots of winter builds going to happen for sure!
This is fascinating and not something I’d thought about at all until this. In the video the footage was noticeably smoother when you were using the shorter cranks than when you switched to the 170s
This year I switched from 172.5 mm cranks to 165s on my road bike, and that made a *huge* difference. I have long limbs and it really opened up my hips a bit. My current mountain bike has 175 mm cranks, and I will definitely opt for something shorter on my next one.
Amazing as always. Great job. 👍
Energized hardtail! Nice style, bro!!!
I have been waiting for this one!
Super helpful video! I ride SS on my Stache and have been wanting to try shorter cranks for a while now. I appreciate you putting together this test and sharing your findings!
Totally makes sense, after seeing this demonstration. Thanks for the content!
I got my 150mm cranks and a 28T chainring yesterday, got them swapped in and went for a test ride. I love them and they helped perfect my bike fit on my large Polygon D7. Stock setup was 175mm and 32T. Only difference I notice is slightly smaller circles and a little higher cadence. I definitely recommend following Canfield's advice on going to a smaller chainring when going down in crank arm length.
I have a polygon t7. What exact parts/link did you use. Looking for as close as possible to a direct replacment
I love these ExpireMENTAL videos. Just plain entertaining! Especially this one. The BB height on my Big Al is significantly lower than my last bike, but I have the same crank length (170). Initially, I was getting a lot more pedal strikes. I need to try a 165 or 160, and see how it feels.
same here, i just cracked my crank on my kona wozo hitting a large root
Very interesting, thanks for sharing your experience!
Great review. I'm 6'1" and currently riding 175 cranks but do mostly endurance rides so I'm definitely going to try out some shorter cranks and see how that feels. I would certainly appreciate less pedal strikes.
Awesome Video Bud!
Steve, great vid as usual. I am 5' 6" with a 28.75 inch inseam. I have 175mm 170mm and 165mm cranks, and yeah I prefer the 165mm cranks because I noticed my legs didnt hurt as much, and felt like I was using less energy to pedal, but still get get rock strikes, lol. Great vid
I am 5'11.5" with a 35.5" cycling inseam and run 165 XT on my geared hardtail. After switching from 180, I have gained a ton of confidence in rock gardens and just pedal straight on through.
New sub. Thanks for this video it's very informative. I'm 5'-10" 64 yrs aged with severe degenerative disc disease. Riding posture makes a huge difference in my being able to ride at all mine is very vertical. Unlike most all of the comments here I do best with 180s having tried 165 thru 180.
Great Video Steve! I'm 5'11" and ride a Large frame in most bike manufactures. I have a short legs with a 30.5 inseam. I switched to 165mm cranks years ago and will never go back to longer cranks! The main reason is pedal strikes. Great video as always!
I immediately recognized your Miata in the vid! I parked by it at the Broken Arrow trailhead last year when I was visiting Sedona and just discovered your channel! Such a cool setup! Ride on!
In 2020 I spent several months sorting out this very question. I wanted to eliminate knee/body discomfort improve riding performance and decrease pedal strikes if possible. I found several bike fit calculators that recommended 162mm cranks. I ended up removing the 170 cranksets on both my FS MTBs and replacing them with Canfield cranks. I put a 160s on my 27.5" wheel FS Trail bike and 165s on my 29" wheel FS "Down Country" bike. Both have 30T chain rings. I picked different lengths for each bike based on wheel size and the different riding styles for each bike (and because it's hard to find 162mm cranks for MTBs). The improvement in comfort, performance and ease of riding was very noticeable; bonus, way less pedal strikes. Exploring crank length is definitely a next level riding improvement. It can really help improve your body health and overall riding performance. It would be great to see crank length as an option when buying an MTB especially from online retailers.
Thanks for taking the time to compare the cranks. I’ve been trying to locate 165mm cranks but having a hard time like most folks. Great video!!!
Canfields of course, and Hope EVO's!
recommend Raceface 165 very durable. Fsa way too soft.
I went from having at set of 175mm cranks on my old Specialized Rockhopper to 170mm cranks on my GT Force, both size medium, and it was the first thing I noticed when I took the first pedal stroke, it felt so much better and even though the Force is much larger than the Rockhopper, it feels easier to place it exactly where I want.
Great video! I'm 6'0 and LOVE 165mm crank arms. I spec'd my bike with 170s because that was the smallest they offered from Ibis. Unfortunately pedal strikes are a Major issue. It makes some technical climbs impossible because you can't pedal! I'll gladly sacrifice a little power for less strikes and smooth circles when pedaling.
I picked up RaceFace 165mm cranks of eBay and I love them... I really felt the difference on the flats. Once on the ups and downs the sensation goes away. IDK, hard to describe!
I really enjoyed this. I’m 5’5”, so your insights were super useful to me. Thanks!
I'm 5'9 and have been using 170mm cranks since the beginning. Always felt my circle was too big (ie. Knees came up too far for comfort).
Thanks for this video, Steve. I've ordered my 160mm Canfields and can't wait to slap them on my bike. 😁
Great idea for a video. Always thought a standard crank length was weird given how much cyclists obsess over every other possible ergo dimension. Glad you found what works best for you, good luck with your PT.
Great video Steve. My FS had 175 cranks on it. (I'm 5'9" with 30" inseam) I started having hip pain that was probably caused by biking but biking made it hurt. I bought 165mm cranks and have been using those. My hip likes these way better. When I bought the shorter cranks I really wanted Canfield ones, but they were all sold out and I couldn't wait. Now I kind wish I had gone with 160mm cranks. What I still need to do is get shorter cranks for my road bike!
Sweet comparison! I rode 185's in BMX for 20+ years! (I'm 6'3") I also liked taller gears so it kinda made sense to me. When I got into MTB's I knew geared bikes wouldn't need such a long arm so 175's it is. Now I have been meaning to get 175's for the BMX bike for a while! Talk about chopping wood!!!!
This is absolutely one of your best videos. It answers so many of my questions about crank length. I have a 29" inseam and I am using 165 mm cranks. I get pain just above my knees and at my hips. Also, I hit my cranks and pedals all the time.
Now I am in market for a set of 155 mm crankset. Thanks.
In my case, my physical therapist diagnosed some tendonosis in my knees (where the tendons connecting the quads to my knees go together). Strengthening the glutes and hamstrings will help balance this out, which is something I'm working on to reduce knee pain.
@@hardtailparty I have achilles tendinitis on both ankles. Need to do my stretching and exercise too.
@@tsalesto it sounds like your saddle might be slightly high too. At least I have similar pain when my saddle is high.
@@hardtailparty Was interesting to hear about your muscle imbalance and PT you were going to. I've been doing the same thing recently. I got back into riding in 2018, bought an indoor trainer and some adjustable dumbbells and dropped my gym membership...I was going to be "lean cycling guy". Turns out ONLY cycling for leg work created a horrible imbalance and started getting some more chronic "back" pain. I went to a spinal ortho, got xrays, started PT. I was stunned at how weak my core was! After all, I can ride all day and am in good shape! Virtually no ham and glute strength, no ab or lower back support. 7 weeks later I'm virtually pain free. I lowered my saddle a touch to get more glute activation. I feel like my legs can now outlast my cardio...which is a first! I'm 6' with 30" inseam riding 175 cranks on both my bikes. Thinking some 170 or even 165 might suite my 54 yo body a little more.
Great video, tons of effort. Thank you
That is fascinating, this explains exactly what my dad has been complaining about when riding, and why he finds this old Haro my brother used to own so comfortable. That thing was designed for tricks and such and it has a very odd geo and quite short cranks. He can never stand my bikes and complains about hip pain, which makes total sense now as mine would have long cranks as I ride an XL.
Good topic i'm 6'2" and run a set of 155mm cranks you have covered most of the pro s and cons the biggest thing i notice is the shorter cranks dont brake traction on slippery steep climbs and you can wheelie for eva as the power is smoother .
Great info. I like the leverage from a 180mm. I use to ride 170, 175. The 180 works well for me especially on steep climbs. It’s a personal choice and fits my training goals. Enjoy.
Excellent video! I watched this with keen interest because I recently bought an XS 29er hardtail for my son that has 155mm cranks. It replaced his older Med 26er with 175mm cranks. We did a 30 min 7-10% climb yesterday and he really struggled on the climb. He had to use cadence instead of leverage but in loose conditions, the lower gears meant more tire slippage. Around here there isn't much flat stuff, so I think I will move him to 170s.
Thanks for the great video- really great info!!
Hope the fingers heeling well Steve! Need your dexterity to build that Sherpa TI 😎
Thanks Steve! Great info.
Went from 50*14 and 170mm on my track bike last week to 52*15 and 165mm. Immediate improvement in top end and repeated efforts.
Interesting how our body and mind can adopt to most anything. Great test.
Reading some of the comments combines your true feeling with the measurable science, which all give the round and full picture. Thanks
So you also have a very good taste in cars.. As for bikes it is obvious how you care about personal preferences and sensation over trends and brands. I love this guy
As a 60 yr old, 6'4" bike fitter, THANK YOU for an excellent video! Frankly I was stunned that you experienced and explained so well so many of the crank length issues I deal with regularly. Of course, you general do an excellent job. I believe Leonard Zinn has never quite gotten it. And, I think the missguided long-crank BMX ideas somehow carried into mountain bikes to all of our detriment. Lower knee stress, lower bottom brackets with fewer pedal strikes and smoother cadence all have significant advantages! It also seems to me that the popularity of oval chainrings is likely in response to the need to smooth out pedaling with cranks that are otherwise too long. Yay to slightly shorter cranks for most of us.
One thing that's overlooked with the knee stress argument, is that to make the same power at the same cadence requires more force. Obviously, the answer to this is to change gears, but that's true in both directions. While I believe that lots of people _would_ be better on shorter cranks, there's also people who would be better off on longer ones. There's always been an odd one-sidedness to arguments posted on the subject.
I mean, If there's an ideal crank length for an average/short legged person, and there is some length that's too short for that same person. How is the same not going to be true for an especially long legged person?
I have always used 170 as they came with the bike and since I am 6'2" they have never "presented" a problem for the type of bike riding (mostly trail, not too technical) that I do, but was wondering if at 6'4" what size crank are you running? Thanks!
Thank you for this actual use review of different length crank arms. Your real time comments are a revelation....obviously to you, but to your viewers as well. I am considering trying 165's in place of 175's on one of my bikes. I'm 5'8" 150 lbs and I feel that 175's are a little long on this bikepacking bike. Be well.........
Fantastic info, thank you!
I'm 5' 9" and have been using 175mm cranks. I love to stand up and get as much of my hips and legs moving. My rides are 2-3 hours long and it's more about getting a full-body workout that I enjoy, rather than minimizing effort. No knee pain ever. However, I can see trying shorter cranks to reduce pedal strikes and to help with balancing manuals and other finesse moves. Would love to see a comparison video on very technical terrain to see the impact of crank lengths.
Great video on this topic. Thanks.
I definitely find myself standing and spinning on certain climbs, but it can be fairly hard to do. Pretty cool that shorter cranks make that a bit easier.
Really interesting video. I've been using 170s for a couple years now but never really considered going lower. I always thought 165s were for DH bikes. It is interesting how so many bikes are just shipped with 175s and people think they need the longest pedal to generate power.
I ordered my new Orbea with 170s rather than the standard 175s. Unfortunately it was built and shipped with 175s so I'm working with Orbea to get a pair of 170s sent to me.
Interestingly it looks like they might have removed the option to select a different crank length when you order your bike!!!!
@@chiefsilverback you will definately notice the difference. Good luck!
I have 170mm cranks on most of my bikes and 175mm on one of them. I really feel like the 175 is too long and my pedal rotations are oversized. I would really like to test out 165 and 160mm cranks in the future! Great video!
The trail looks great!
This was a fantastic experiment! Your insights and analysis were very helpful. Thanks. Subbed.
I have not given this much thought, and I do not know what the lengths are of *any* of my bikes. Big Eye Opener!
I have the same car. I put on H&R shocks and springs: nice.
**Potentially wordy reply** Steve, I'm glad you made this! Having recently spent a couple of months considering a change in crank length, your experience mimics mine (though a bit more thorough). I also was a bmx kid, and ran 180s with a big gear back in the 80s and early 90s. As BMX changed, I went to 175s, and have run 175s on the mtb since I started in '97. Recently I had reason to consider changing length and after a bunch of discussion I went with 165s. I'm 5'10" and the relative comparison was very close to yours. My quads and hips feel SOOOOO much better for it. Even with the 165s I still feel like I've got plenty of torque to get up the punchy stuff, but at the same time I'm 220lbs. If I step on the pedal it's going to go down. LOL. I don't think I could comfortably go any shorter, it would be the point of diminishing returns but ma, am I ever happy I was open minded enough to give it a try.
WONDERFUL video and wonderful explanations in first comment! Thank you!
I recently switched to 165 on my Timberjack & I really liked it. Now after watching your video I would like to try the 155. I’m 5’6” so I definitely like shorter cranks. Great video !,,
Super down to earth and honest into hommie
I had the same BMX influence so had even run 180mm cranks on my mountain bike. Then, because I do some bike fitting/sizing (bike shop owner) I started reading more on the topic. There's some interesting information out there essentially saying most people are (were) on excessively long cranks. I'm 6'2 and happily switched to 170mm a few years ago and am interested in trying 165mm (when the industry finally gets stock again). Great video. Shorter cranks are almost a necessity on modern full suspension bikes with the low bbs. I'm glad to see 170mm becoming much more common and the occasional 165 on stock smaller bikes.
I'm 68", 30" inseam. I've been running 175mm cranks since 1993, when I upsized from a 170 with biopace chainrings. I loved the feeling of extra torque then. In retrospect it was a big mistake that took nearly 30 years to correct. As I aged torque has been gradually replaced by a higher cadence that favors my knees better. I put a 170mm on my latest bike build, and it's very nice. Less butt bob at high cadence, and easier on my knees. The shorter crankset plus larger diameter wheels makes me want to drop down a couple teeth on the front chaining, but better fitness has negated that issue. I think I won't go lower than 170, since my saddle would have to go to high, and I would have to drop down to a 28tooth chaining for sure.
very informative . i don't ride that much anymore because of age and injury but what got my attention was you mentioning Specialized " ground control" tires . those were the first real mt. bike tires i had back in the eighties on my schwinn Cimarron which is now called a
gravel bike . 😂
I'm 6'1" and have always run 175mm cranks, but I think I am going to try either 170mm or 165mm to reduce pedal strikes. Also good to know that it doesn't hurt climbing much, if any :) Super interesting video and glad you shared - cheers!
I'm 6'2" and recently went from 175 to 165, I like the 165 better
Thanks for this important test
I went from 175 to 170 a few months ago - overall an improvement. It allowed me to throw my Fuel EX in the slacker position with Trek's mino link and not have to deal with pedal strikes with the lower BB. I do notice my tougher climbs get a little bit tougher for sure, and I am more frequently in my easiest gear.
It did also change the fit of my bike though. I stand a lot and actually feel more in control being higher up on the bike, but just the 5mm change is enough that I need to adjust my stem/handlebars to get the right natural hip angle I want. Something to consider for future tests.
I've always upgraded to longer cranks, because I'm 6'4".
Went from the standard 160mm on my 24" BMX Cruiser to 180mm... & I loved the leveraged I had with the longer cranks, & the transfer of power.
They made hill climbing easier for me, because each crank propelled me up with more force.
When I started riding MTBs, I got stuck with 170mm cranks...& the loss of leverage was not as noticeable, because of the wider choice of gear ratios.. but when set in the same gear ratio as my BMX, the loss in leverage & power I could put into the crank was very noticeable.
Looking at upgrading to 175s now.
Love these Experimental vids! So cool that you did this. I am 188 cm tall and have used 175mm on my hardtail and have 170mm RF cranks on my full squish which always gets pedal strikes. - low bottom bracket. Have been thinking of trying 165's to alleviate the pedal strikes, Might have to give them a try just to see. Can always switch back if it doesn't pan out.
As I mentioned on Instagram today. I bought a set of Canfield 155mm cranks for my 10 year old sons bike over the winter while we were waiting for his new bike to arrive. His SM frame size bike came stock with 170mm cranks. Blows me away that a Small frame bike still comes with the same crank size as a Large frame bike. How at just over 5ft tall can a kid pedal a bike properly with the same size crank for a 6 ft tall person.
Also allowed us (like you point out) to install a longer dropper post. was able to fit a full 150mm dropper in there due to being able to raise the seat higher with the shorter crank.
Went with the Canfields due to they were one of the only companies out there that made a proper good crank/bottom bracket setup in that size. That and the rave reviews you have given them in the past on your channel. Just goes to show the power of a good youtube review.
Keep cranking (pun intended) these experimental vids out. Love the insight and knowledge that is gained from them.
I'm 5'11" with 33" inseam. I went from 175mm cranks to 170s and found that the back ache I always get after an hour or so in the saddle doesn't happen anymore. I've put up with this aching for decades and thought it was just me. I only changed cranks due to fitting a works components 1.5 degree slacker headset that caused a lower BB.
Did a similar thing for my little boy after he complained of back ache with similar results.
Great video Steve. I didn't think there would be a big difference but, at 178cm (5'10.5") tall, I do notice a big difference in crank length in one particular scenario: Standing up while slowly climbing my HT over difficult big chunky tech like tree roots and bumpy rock gardens. I find the 175's (vs 170's) tire me quicker, feel less smooth and stable. Also, riding flats, I've had more feet slip off the pedals (and into my shins) on 175's than 170's. Maybe the 175's give me slightly more torque? but it's not worth it in my experience.
Great comparison! On the trail live! I am 5’6”1/2 and usually ride 170mm. I didn’t know there would such difference. When I ride my kids bike with 150 crank, it does feel very easy to pedal.
This was really good and goes along with my philosophy.
I remember racing 180mm BMX cranks in the early 80's...I seem to recall higher cadence equates to higher wattage...? Thanks for great comparison, awesome video!! I really like the idea of better ergonomics for the long term and avoiding physical issues.
Great vid indeed! Steve is one of a few resources that have inspired me to run Canfield 155 Cranks on my Giant Fathom (pedal strikes are killing me!).
How about another crank length comparison vid? However this time with chainring (tooth count & oval vs. round) changes. For example 175's with a 32T ring, 165s with 30T, etc.
I liked 165mm over 170mm. Might have been just the psychological thought of less pedal strikes. Will grab a set of Canfields based on your review. I’m curious about Absolute Black. Will definitely buy from them if they can send some chainrings your way. Curious about the different sizes and also oval if you get to review. Keep these vids coming. Not a lot of product review content where you actually get to see it on the trail and compare.
Wow, I did NOT expect to find this video to be so interesting. But it makes so much sense. A great gig seems like the most important quality in a bike. Works that way fir me. I’m 6’. My mid-90s GT had 175s and they often felt too long. My new HT has 170s and I really like them. Not sure shorter would be great but who knows?
Awesome video, I bet that was a nightmare to edit.. what to keep and what toss. Did a great job of talking through your feelings. Makes me want to experiment 👍🏼
The worst part was that I forgot to hit "record" on my first lap of the 165s, so it took some trickery to make it work. Thanks for the kind words. I realize it was a bit repetitive, but I felt the details were worth sharing.
Steve, Fabulous documentary video. You touched on many great points. My big concern of short cranks which you discovered was the need to raise the seat height thereby raising your center of gravity slightly. I didn't seem bother you at all. I remember Bobby “The Baltimore Bullet” Phillips had a Sterling Criterium bicycle with a very high bottom bracket and he spun 165 cranks. Bobby could attack and peddle hard through corners where others leaned their bikes and could not peddle till they exited. Bobby was perhaps the greatest crit racer of his era and he told me a lot had to do with that set up. Short cranks certainly allow you to spin at high cadence but long cranks help drive the big gears for speed. Everyone needs to find what works for them. I am however interested in your automatic length adjusting crank arms when they become available.
Cog when seated isn't very important to me. Cog when standing however, is. Since the bb height doesn't change, it doesn't have much of an affect at all on my MTB riding.
Very helpful, thank you!