BMW Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement (E39) FCP Euro -
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- čas přidán 30. 03. 2012
- #ProjectE39 recently has been going through some sensors due to age. The latest issue involved a faulty intake camshaft position sensor. Some of the classic symptoms include bad fuel mileage, idling problems, studdering up hill, stalling, and an overall lack of power.
Thanks to our sponsors at FCP Euro (www.fcpeuro.com) we will be able to get the job done quicker and also give valuable firsthand install information on how to replace common wear items on this platform.
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BMW Camshaft Position Sensor
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I just posted 50 minutes ago. Went to parts place and got this part, took me a little longer than I thought only because it was 100+ outside and a bit miserable. BUT... everything went very good. Cleared codes and took for a drive, codes did not reappear but we'll see after a bit more driving. My E36 set up was close to this video, thanks again guys, it made my day much easier seeing this video first.
I like videos like this, straight forward no bullshit talk, no fucking around and plain and simple how to! Great job
This was the exact video I needed! Had already bought the part and was about to take it to the garage when I thought "Hmm might just have a look on CZcams and see how hard this is. An hour later and I've replaced it myself. Thanks heaps.
just had the same thing diagnosed with my E39 - it's coming back tomorrow and I'm really looking forward to seeing how much better the throttle response and idling will be!
Thanks for the props. It's funny that I do all this work now because not too long ago I didn't touch anything on my cars. I think a combination of curiosity and greed has driven me to doing my own work. Plus I know if something goes wrong I have only myself to blame. It keeps more money in the bank and I get to learn a lot about how these cars work by taking them apart.
Hi, Many thanks as Eu702 scanner reported fault and your decription of symtoms was exact. Purchased new part, replaced in 40 minutes, clearded fault code and car now runs like a race engine. If you come to Australia I will buy you a beer.
Great video guys, I have a 2000 E36 and could not find a video on it that was as good as this. Am ordering the part now. It will be nearly the same set up, thanks for making the video.
Terrific work guys! My '97 528i just threw a P0340. Literally 30 min after I changed out my motor mounts (educated from another one of your videos), I get the "check engine" light. I thought that jacking up the motor caused it! This will be cake! thx.
I installed this about 2 years ago and it's still working. I trust Meyle more with suspension components overall. I don't think Meyle engineers this part but rather repackages it from another manufacturer under their name. I generally try to stick with OEM suppliers for electrical components but I was being cheap and figured I would give Meyle a shot for this application. It likely won't last as long as an OEM version but that's okay.
Two suggestions. First it only takes a minute to remove the oil filter and it makes the job much easier. With it out, you can use a 5mm Allen driver for your ratchet, which is much quicker. Second, with the filter out, I was able to use an adjustable wrench to remove and replace the vanos solenoid, which saved $30-$40 dollars for a wrench I'd probably only use once. But, if you guys hadn't provided the info I needed to do the job, I wouldn't be able to make these suggestion. THANKS VERY MUCH!!
318 BMW camshaft sensor
I'm not particularly mechanically inclined, but this is exactly what I needed to see to make the repair on my E39. Thanks guys!
No problem. When I first started working on cars I was nervous I would bite off more than I could chew. However, I've learned that if I could take it apart I could certainly put it back together. Plus, with all the resources on the internet any question or worry you may have can always be answered.
Nice. Good to hear everything worked out!
Thank you for the video man...this helps a lot :) ...thank you!!
rough idle when cold ?!
Sounds like a vacuum leak. check the intake manifold gasket
anyhow i'm glad you fixed it man.
The one I put in had a slightly larger diameter as well. However, the sensor still functions the same as the old one. There might have been a redesign at some point. As long as the sensor fits into the slot you should be fine.
This helped me to replace mine. Thanks!
Pretty straight forward to figure out when you take everything into consideration. When a CPS fails on a VANOS motor it goes to a factory safe mode where the VANOS system will not function. I had ZERO variable valve timing which is why the car ran like a pig, had no power going up hills, and would run like crap on a cold start.
Great video and a sweet ride! I just have one question, where did you get your anges eyes from they look nice! thanks for the video
nice,thanks dude....been ignoring the code for a while now.......till now
Thankyou DUDES!!!!
That's what I would be thinking too if the car didn't have the other issues as well. However, since the sensor replacement all has been fine.
thanks guys for the effort, one question,, do i have to see faulty codes on the dash board menue or just replace it, my 528 e39 eats alot of benzin 14 l/100 km at least, idling up and down sometimes after long trips, feeling missfire sometimes when wanna accelerate but no faults or codes at all... i have m52 engine but different from ur video, advice????? thank alot again
Thanks!
I've managed to disconnect both ends of the CPS wire, however the wire itself is maintained in place with a clip firmly attached to the engine - see picture attached.
Did anyone came across this clip holding the wire in place? If so any advice how to disconnect it.
Obviously an old wire can be sliced and pulled out from the clip. I am leaving this option as last resource, as I would like install the new new wire through the same clip.
Forgot to add to the previous comment. It's a 6 cylinder. And I have disconnected the MAF and ran it till it warmed up and the same issue occurred. So maybe not the MAF, idk?
same process on the e46 330ci 2001?
omg thanks for this. i think this is the last thing i need to fix on my whip. i have a 98 528i and i just sealed the head gasket n did a oil change but i cant get the oil filter housing off for the life of me. pissing me off. i flushed the radiator too. the car shakes in idol alot so i guess i will check it out. saves me money
hope you ended up taking that oil filter housing man
Having the same problem
Dirty MAF would make the car run in safe mode instantly. I've had that issues before
Injectors are perfect
Temp sensor was replaced last year and reads perfect.
Fuel pressure is spot on and fuel filter was replaced last year
The primary symptons were high fuel consumption, no power going uphill, rough idle when cold, and absolutely no low end power. Like I said below, you can feel when the car is not using VANOS and a bad CPS will shut the VANOS system off making the engine run fixed timing.
do you have a video available for an e38 740i?
cool simple n effective
I can't find the exhaust and intake camshaft sensor no videos on a e90 were can I find a video at
Very helpful....
recently I had a faulty camshaft sensor code , so I replaced it with a new Meyle just like you did, only I removed the oil filter housing cap for clearance. But I'm still getting the same code when I scan the car. Fortunately no uphills here in S FL, but still getting low end power symptoms, won't rev past 3500 no matter what, etc. any ideas? using bmw scanner V1.4 (can't find my inpa cable)
Hi guys! Is the position sensor you replaced on the intake side? Should I replace the exhaust side also??
would this be the same process in replacing this part in a 07 bmw x3.0si (E83)?
thanks you i just saved some money
Would this be the same process for a 2000 BMW 323ci?
did you have an engine light when the cps went faulty? it is very weird but my EML light is NOT one..
Hello. I have a 1998 BMW 323i and once the car is warmed up around 20-30 minutes of driving, the rpm's shoot down and the car wants to shut off. They just keep shooting up and down. I keep the gas going and that's probably the only reason it stays on. When I hold the clutch, and let it idle, the rpm just shoots down and the car shuts off. What do you think can be the problem? I've heard, CCV, other sensors, idk?
How long did that Meyle cheapo last?
Hey man how did you diagnose it was the CPS ?
it could be a vaccum leak.
did you scan the fuel trim levels LTFT STFT ?
Whats the Build year of your Beemer?
I did intermittently. Generally speaking the car won't have any power at the low end and horrendous fuel economy. In addition the engine will run extremely rough. VANOS also does not work with a faulty CPS.
What watt are your angel eye bulbs ?
The only difference with my 1996 528i was that the other end of the cable (not the o-ring end) was in a difference position. It was more central and further back.
I need to change my sensors it's a 92 325i
hello mate, i saw you have used MEYLE camshaft position sensor. How long ago did you install it? did you have any problem with it so far? shall I go for the OEM one?
Don't worry, there will be plenty of videos soon with the M3.
what did your car do , before you replaced the sensor,cause im asking , my rpm is staying reved up,and it wont go into gear, unless i re-start it
do you kno where the ect sensor is not the one by the radiator
This might be a dumb question but I am tackling this project this weekend. Do you have to disconnect the battery to do this one?
how many miles did the car have on it when you replaced the CPS?
Hmm.. Will a faulty cam sensor cause injectors not to fire? If not then what would?
The camshaftend has an smaller diameter, I bought a new one and they sent me one with a bigger diameter. The seller says it fits also. Any thoughts?
That's not surprising. This motor is slightly different than what you have. M52TU was the precursor to the M54 engine so a lot of the connections, sensors, and even the VANOS system are the same. Only difference is it has a cable driven throttle body vs the newer drive by wire system.
Car starts fine runs, then Rpms drop as car warms up. Just before the car reaches normal operating temp it shuts off. Car will start. Only does this when its cold weather
They're only 12V input. The rings each have 60 LED's a piece which is why they are so bright. So in total there are 240 LED's in the angel eyes alone.
or dirty MAF
or injector
or a faulty TEMP sensor
or fuel pressure regulator / fuel filter
or god knows what .. .
does it have the problems cold or hot or always ?
Hey man!
i changed the camsheft sensor and my car is better now but sometimes it doest start fast and sometimes it start fast, and when the car doesnt start fast (Keystart) it feels slow when u driving it. But when the car starts fast the car is faster when u driving it. Do u know maybe the problem?
Its likely due to a faulty cam sensor. If you have an aftermarket one installed it may be the problem.
The Car Life ye its a afternarket one, what do u think should i try to buy one on bmw or some say it can be the other sensor they call it the exhaust side sensor because there is two of them?
im not sure what to do if u ur sure that i need a bmw orginal senor than i will buy it, and like i sad before i bought the sensor i couldnt drive the car normaly because it wanted to shut down then engine and when i bought the sensor the car was better but sometimes its not going like it should go,
The Car Life
same issue changed the camshaft both intake and exhaust sensors, it start fast when the engine is cold and run very fast, but after running for 1hour or more with the engine hot.. turn of engine, restart... it start stalling to start up, when you press the gas.. the car has low accelerating power, not that quick feel slow / recently change pcv, spark plug, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, both camshaft sensors!! any hint please?
120K miles give or take. Pretty common problem on higher mileage motors.
You can if you want to but it isn't really necessary.
Hey...i am a customer of FCP...now i have a big problem with my 2004, x5, 3.0 engine. The problem started a few months ago and is driving me crazy. I start the car now...run it for...10 minutes or 5 hours, i stop the engine. Try to start it after 30 minutes around, the car turns and turns until i push the gas pedal. It starts and it feels like it's not enough fuel or too much fuel. Do you think it might be from this intake camshaft? I changed : Camshaft exhaust, crankshaft, fuel filter, sparks, clean idle control, clean throtle body, clean auxiliar air pump...new air filter...i have no ideea what's wrong with it.. :( Please, any ideea?
That would be the purge valve. Had the same issue with my mk6 Jetta
HELP !!!!!
MY CAR DOESNT TAKE THE 3rd shift IT JUST GOES FROM 1-2-then not the 3rd is this the camshaft sensor
Change the rear abs fualty sensors
No, just doesn't need anything. Also, I haven't driven it this year yet. I have to redo my insurance policy.
I have a similar issue with this car. Replacing the PCV should help but its best to not let the car idle when its cold and just drive it. I think there is a reflash that can be done to the DME to resolve this problem fully.
This is a 528i 2000
Hello. I have a 1998 BMW 323i and once the car is warmed up around 20-30 minutes of driving, the rpm's shoot down and the car wants to shut off. They just keep shooting up and down. I keep the gas going and that's probably the only reason it stays on. When I hold the clutch, and let it idle, the rpm just shoots down and the car shuts off. What do you think can be the problem? I've heard, CCV, other sensors, idk?
+Aaron Moldovan I have exactly the same problem with a 2002 530i. I also cleaned the MAF, but the problem remained. The car finally threw some fault codes and the intake cam position sensor was one (along with the crankshaft sensor). I'm going to replace the cam sensor first to see if that does the trick.