Curious, have you tried KASE clip in filters and how they compare to STCs? I know KASE is not magnetic for starters, but I wonder about performance and quality.
STC Optical developed the system first, and I bought them as soon as they were launched. I've enjoyed the products so I haven't tried or compared to Kase.
Its the shutter shield that was damaged not the sensor/ibis module Sony have a 4 layer build with the gen 4 style bodys IO-ports/Cooling/Core/Shutter with a 3 piece shell back diels/screen, top EVF/command diles/ Core mount/frount. the biggest thing is that its only a couple screws to get at the 3.5mm audio ports that die under any real tension and can be replaced for 10Usd a pop.
Thanks for all the informative content! These filters aren't on Amazon. Is it safe/reliable to order directly from STC? Their site has been saying "Available on backorder" for weeks.
Noob question. I'm looking into their website to see if I can buy one of this ND filters for my Fuji GFX 50R. They have several options to chose from. Is the "IR-CUT ND64" the same thing you're using?
Hi Rob if you haven’t already please please consider making a video about using hss for freezing action being hit with strong ambient light. As you can see from my avatar, that’s what I do for majority of my work.
Will magnet work with older versions of ND filters? I have them for my Fuji X-T3. Still not sure if I am to use those little cushion tabs on ND filter?
Do you still like using the clip in filters? I bought the Kase ones and sent them back. I found that the filters being so close to the sensor meant that even a tiny spec of dust would show up clear as day in my images. Combine that with the fact that the case for the Kase filters was ungodly dirty right out of the box, and man what a bad experience. I also didn't like their suction cup tool for removal. I ended up having one glass fall out of the frame before I even mounted it, and I had another case where the frame got stuck in my R5 similar to what you described. Yeahhhh... No more clip in filters for me.
Still use them all the time. I can count on one hand how many times I’ve used HSS since getting them. That’s absurd that the Kase case is dirty when new. I do double check my filters for dust before using them but I just keep them in a small plastic case and there’s never been an issue.
There are no visual differences. Just the practical aspects, like lens ND filters require different sizes, step up rings, or square mounts to accommodate various thread sizes. Also there are some ultra wide angle lenses that cant have a filter at all.
@@ekphotography oh, outside of drop-in systems built into lenses (Like Tamron 15-30mm), or drop-in filter adapters for Canon EF to RF - no, I'm not aware of any.
Hey Robert, would my Sony a55 SLR work with any of these clip filter products? It has the APS-C sensor, I know they make the clip filters for those sensors but it doesn’t say if it’s compatible with the a55…?
No, they don't. People constantly misunderstand this. Imagine you're outdoors, shooting ambient exposure settings of 1/250 F/5.6 ISO 100. Flash at 1/4 power. Image is perfect brightness but you want shallow depth of field . Option 1) add 4 stop ND settings are now 1/250 F/1.4 ISO 100 Flash loses 4 stops from ND, but gains 4 stops from aperture opening up 4 stops. They cancel each other out, flash is still at 1/4 power to make the same brightness as original settings. Adding an ND filter will always mean the flash has the exact same relationship to the ambient light and camera settings (provided power level and position stay the same). Yes you darken the entire image, but there's no "loss" of flash power, relatively speaking. Option 2) Change settings to 1/4000 F/1.4 ISO 100 Flash loses 2 (depends on flash) stops of light going into HSS. Flash loses 4 stops of light due to shutter speed increase beyond sync speed. Flash gains 4 stops of light due to aperture opening up. The aperture and shutter speed changes cancel one another out, but the flash lost 2 stops because of repeated pulses of HSS. So, in order to match brightness of original settings, flash needs to be brightened 2 stops from 1/4 to 1/1. HSS is ALWAYS less efficient than ND + standard sync for equivalent exposures, and the difference in how much is ALWAYS based on the efficiency loss of the strobe entering HSS. This can be anywhere from 1 stop to over 3 stops, depending on the lighting product and power setting.
Hi Rob - thank you for this video. I found it because I have an older STC filter stuck in an A7r4. I had no idea my filter is not the newest version! The website I bought it from says it's compatible with all A7 series cameras. ~sigh. Do you have any advice on how to remove the filter without damaging the camera?
Hey Athena, I'm so sorry I just saw this because I know firsthand how frustrating the experience is. I used it in my RIV, and it got stuck, and it actually broke getting it out. This all stems from Sony changing the sensor box size without any formal announcement / explanation, which is why there was a period where it was assumed compatible but lead to this issue. I'm sure you've had some form of resolution by now (hopefully an easy one), but for anyone else who possibly runs into this: Keep the camera off. Mount your camera on a tripod or stand with the sensor facing down. If the glass does break, you want it to fall out of the sensor box, rather than onto the sensor. I suggest putting something (a silicone toothpick works well) on one side, and prying from the other. This way as you pry you maintain a small gap on the opposite side rather than it getting jammed in crooked. If it does break, don't freak out thinking your sensor is automatically destroyed. When it broke in mine my entire sensor was covered in ground glass. Blow as much out as possible, jostle the camera around lightly tapping the exterior to loosen it up from any hard to reach areas, blow again. Just keep using a rocket blow in close proximity until all evidence of ground glass is gone. Do not use compressed air and do not turn the camera on until you see no glass pieces. Only then should you clean the sensor with a sensor swab.
Huh? No I still use strobes for pretty much everything. I use the ND filter WITH strobes in traditional sync. The point of the ND filter is to avoid HSS.
Robert Hall Photography oh! Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying that. Would you say 4 stop is enough? I don’t have the money to buy 4,6,10 so I just want to buy one.
If I were buying 1 I'd buy the 6 stop because that will take sunny 16 conditions down to F/1.4. If that's too much, you can always raise your ISO a bit. But, if you don't tend to shoot wider than F/2, the 4 stop is fine.
I know this was for the Sony Mount, but are these available for canon RF mount? I wanting to get the Sigma 14-24 and there doesn’t seem to be much around in terms of rear ND filters. Any help would be greatly appreciated👍🏻
I have no issues with focus outdoors on the 6 stop, eye AF still accurate. I've never tried using the 10 stop for portraiture though as that's excessive.
Yeah it's a little odd for dSLR's with the mirror. Probably for the best since it affects your visibility through the viewfinder and will likely significantly impact focusing.
Robert Hall Photography A filter adapter like the z6 uses maybe thinner would be awesome esp for lens that can’t take a filter like the 14-24 Allowing for nd or polorizer filters
I'd recommend not to buy STC. I bought 1 ND filter from them and it came with a lot of dust. I sent photos to them when I got it and they said: "We apologize for the filter condition, it shouldn't be like it. We will improve our QC process immediately. Very sorry for letting you receive the unclean filter, as apologized we like to make the filter become 20% discount and the adhesive for free." Since they were not gonna replace I decided to properly clean the filter and still has 3 small dusk-like marks. I don't recommend, a product that goes to your camera should come faultless from factory.
had seen a review of stc nd filter giving blurr image on yhe corners. please check it once for urself and make a video on that. in video mode too.thanks.
If there is any way you can use your celebrity to suggest to them to create a 13 or 14 stop ND filter and a Hot Mirror filter, we would all be eternally grateful.
@@robhallphoto That's awesome. I usually use B+W filters until I got the Fuji 8-16. When I compared it to the STC filter, I did the math and found out the B+W 10 stop is more like a 12.5-13 stop and I liked how dark it was. It really helps get longer exposures during the day. A Clip Hot Mirror filter would turn full spectrum converted cameras to normal cameras that you can use circular filters with at the same time.
![Kase Clip-In ND Filters for Sony Alpha Full Frame [ Over-Sensor Neutral Density Filter Set ] Review](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/42q7eUyxJ0I/mqdefault.jpg)
I have mine but haven’t use it yet thanks for turning us on to them Robert u Rock
I just my 6 stop last week. It’s awesome for my sigma 35 1.2
Curious, have you tried KASE clip in filters and how they compare to STCs? I know KASE is not magnetic for starters, but I wonder about performance and quality.
STC Optical developed the system first, and I bought them as soon as they were launched. I've enjoyed the products so I haven't tried or compared to Kase.
Definitely would make sense to get this version. Thanks!
Its the shutter shield that was damaged not the sensor/ibis module Sony have a 4 layer build with the gen 4 style bodys IO-ports/Cooling/Core/Shutter with a 3 piece shell back diels/screen, top EVF/command diles/ Core mount/frount. the biggest thing is that its only a couple screws to get at the 3.5mm audio ports that die under any real tension and can be replaced for 10Usd a pop.
You should make a video about freeIng action with hss as you said at the end!
Robert, have you tried using one of these filters along with a VND for fine tuning?
I actually did exactly that for video once. Paired the 4 stop on sensor with a light VND for shooting 24 fps video in the afternoon.
@@robhallphoto Thanks buddy!
Thanks for all the informative content! These filters aren't on Amazon. Is it safe/reliable to order directly from STC? Their site has been saying "Available on backorder" for weeks.
Anyone who has purchased them got them directly from STC, so I'd say it's safe!
@@robhallphoto Super! Thank you so much!
Clip fit for the win
Can i clean this like a regular sensor?
It’s not a sensor, it’s a filter, so clean it like you would a filter.
I remember you saying at WPPI it was not working well on the new camera. Still waiting on the Z 6/7 model.
Noob question. I'm looking into their website to see if I can buy one of this ND filters for my Fuji GFX 50R. They have several options to chose from. Is the "IR-CUT ND64" the same thing you're using?
Yes, all the NDs are called IR cut. 64 is the 6 stop and the one I guggest if you want max apertures of 1.4 in bright daylight
@@robhallphoto thanks man. I'll get this then. Im glad you shared this
Hi Rob if you haven’t already please please consider making a video about using hss for freezing action being hit with strong ambient light. As you can see from my avatar, that’s what I do for majority of my work.
Will magnet work with older versions of ND filters? I have them for my Fuji X-T3. Still not sure if I am to use those little cushion tabs on ND filter?
Do you still like using the clip in filters? I bought the Kase ones and sent them back. I found that the filters being so close to the sensor meant that even a tiny spec of dust would show up clear as day in my images. Combine that with the fact that the case for the Kase filters was ungodly dirty right out of the box, and man what a bad experience. I also didn't like their suction cup tool for removal. I ended up having one glass fall out of the frame before I even mounted it, and I had another case where the frame got stuck in my R5 similar to what you described. Yeahhhh... No more clip in filters for me.
Still use them all the time. I can count on one hand how many times I’ve used HSS since getting them. That’s absurd that the Kase case is dirty when new. I do double check my filters for dust before using them but I just keep them in a small plastic case and there’s never been an issue.
So I heard you can change settings to avoid the dark filter and focus clearly. Can this be done with Z6 also?
Hello and thank you for all your videos!
usa.stcoptics.com/products/copy-of-astrophotography-clip-filter-series-for-sony-a1-a7siii-a9ii-a7r4-fx3-cameras
what is the difference between using ND filters on the sensor and on the lens ND filters?
There are no visual differences. Just the practical aspects, like lens ND filters require different sizes, step up rings, or square mounts to accommodate various thread sizes. Also there are some ultra wide angle lenses that cant have a filter at all.
Does anything exist like this but for behind the lens and not the camera sensor..?
ND filters? Yeah they've been around forever.
@@robhallphoto I meant behind the lens inside..
@@ekphotography oh, outside of drop-in systems built into lenses (Like Tamron 15-30mm), or drop-in filter adapters for Canon EF to RF - no, I'm not aware of any.
Hey Robert, would my Sony a55 SLR work with any of these clip filter products? It has the APS-C sensor, I know they make the clip filters for those sensors but it doesn’t say if it’s compatible with the a55…?
Maybe contact them? Just an idea
The ND filters also require more power from the flash. 4 stops more for an ND4 etc. How many stops do you save using HSS instead of ND filters?
No, they don't. People constantly misunderstand this.
Imagine you're outdoors, shooting ambient exposure settings of
1/250 F/5.6 ISO 100. Flash at 1/4 power. Image is perfect brightness but you want shallow depth of field .
Option 1)
add 4 stop ND
settings are now
1/250 F/1.4 ISO 100
Flash loses 4 stops from ND, but gains 4 stops from aperture opening up 4 stops. They cancel each other out, flash is still at 1/4 power to make the same brightness as original settings.
Adding an ND filter will always mean the flash has the exact same relationship to the ambient light and camera settings (provided power level and position stay the same). Yes you darken the entire image, but there's no "loss" of flash power, relatively speaking.
Option 2)
Change settings to
1/4000 F/1.4 ISO 100
Flash loses 2 (depends on flash) stops of light going into HSS.
Flash loses 4 stops of light due to shutter speed increase beyond sync speed. Flash gains 4 stops of light due to aperture opening up. The aperture and shutter speed changes cancel one another out, but the flash lost 2 stops because of repeated pulses of HSS.
So, in order to match brightness of original settings, flash needs to be brightened 2 stops from 1/4 to 1/1.
HSS is ALWAYS less efficient than ND + standard sync for equivalent exposures, and the difference in how much is ALWAYS based on the efficiency loss of the strobe entering HSS. This can be anywhere from 1 stop to over 3 stops, depending on the lighting product and power setting.
Any info when nd would be available for a7rIV? Thank you :)
Hi Rob - thank you for this video. I found it because I have an older STC filter stuck in an A7r4. I had no idea my filter is not the newest version! The website I bought it from says it's compatible with all A7 series cameras. ~sigh.
Do you have any advice on how to remove the filter without damaging the camera?
Hey Athena, I'm so sorry I just saw this because I know firsthand how frustrating the experience is. I used it in my RIV, and it got stuck, and it actually broke getting it out. This all stems from Sony changing the sensor box size without any formal announcement / explanation, which is why there was a period where it was assumed compatible but lead to this issue.
I'm sure you've had some form of resolution by now (hopefully an easy one), but for anyone else who possibly runs into this:
Keep the camera off. Mount your camera on a tripod or stand with the sensor facing down. If the glass does break, you want it to fall out of the sensor box, rather than onto the sensor. I suggest putting something (a silicone toothpick works well) on one side, and prying from the other. This way as you pry you maintain a small gap on the opposite side rather than it getting jammed in crooked.
If it does break, don't freak out thinking your sensor is automatically destroyed. When it broke in mine my entire sensor was covered in ground glass. Blow as much out as possible, jostle the camera around lightly tapping the exterior to loosen it up from any hard to reach areas, blow again. Just keep using a rocket blow in close proximity until all evidence of ground glass is gone. Do not use compressed air and do not turn the camera on until you see no glass pieces. Only then should you clean the sensor with a sensor swab.
i see you shred the beard.
Gotta get this neck some daylight
@@robhallphoto lol i hear yo man
Any code to have discount with stc optics man? Shipping is 35 usd to my country
Do you perfer kolari or stc?
never heard of or used Kolari
So you personally don’t use any type of strobe if you have this nd filter on? How many stops do you prefer?
Huh? No I still use strobes for pretty much everything. I use the ND filter WITH strobes in traditional sync. The point of the ND filter is to avoid HSS.
Robert Hall Photography oh! Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying that. Would you say 4 stop is enough? I don’t have the money to buy 4,6,10 so I just want to buy one.
If I were buying 1 I'd buy the 6 stop because that will take sunny 16 conditions down to F/1.4. If that's too much, you can always raise your ISO a bit. But, if you don't tend to shoot wider than F/2, the 4 stop is fine.
Robert Hall Photography thanks a lot brother! I’m getting the 6 stop nd
I know this was for the Sony Mount, but are these available for canon RF mount? I wanting to get the Sigma 14-24 and there doesn’t seem to be much around in terms of rear ND filters. Any help would be greatly appreciated👍🏻
Yup RF mount is already on their site. The website is linked in the description.
Robert Hall Photography Dude: You Rock🤘🏻thanks heaps!
How would these new filters fit with the A7s3? Is the a7s3 housing the same as the a7r4?
most likely.
How is focus effected? I also have the A7RIV. It doesn’t seem to be available yet on their site.
I have no issues with focus outdoors on the 6 stop, eye AF still accurate. I've never tried using the 10 stop for portraiture though as that's excessive.
Robert Hall Photography is this an affiliate link? If so I’ll purchase through it as this couldn’t have come at a more perfect time.
I wish they had these for Nikon dslr
Yeah it's a little odd for dSLR's with the mirror. Probably for the best since it affects your visibility through the viewfinder and will likely significantly impact focusing.
Robert Hall Photography A filter adapter like the z6 uses maybe thinner would be awesome esp for lens that can’t take a filter like the 14-24 Allowing for nd or polorizer filters
@吳孟聰 any thoughts on a 13 stop ND filter or a hot mirror filter for full spectrum converted cameras?
@吳孟聰 That's fine. I want it for longer exposures during the day so I can stretch out the clouds. Any chance on a hot mirror for full spectrum cameras?
@吳孟聰 any update on the 13 stop ND?
What if you don’t need a 6 stops how do you adjust
raise your ISO, or get less than a 6 stop filter.
4 stop or 6 stop since summer is over and its not going to be as bright?
I wouldn't base my decision on one season...
@@robhallphoto ok I'm going with the 6 stop, do you think that's too much if its not super sunny or I just have to try it out
I'd recommend not to buy STC.
I bought 1 ND filter from them and it came with a lot of dust.
I sent photos to them when I got it and they said:
"We apologize for the filter condition, it shouldn't be like it. We will improve our QC process immediately.
Very sorry for letting you receive the unclean filter, as apologized we like to make the filter become 20% discount and the adhesive for free."
Since they were not gonna replace I decided to properly clean the filter and still has 3 small dusk-like marks.
I don't recommend, a product that goes to your camera should come faultless from factory.
Did STC Optics go outta business?
Okay
While I like the filter, I prefer the vnd from polar pro. Luckily I only need the one for my lenses.
I still use VND's for video but these definitely affect my image quality way less than the extremes of a VND.
had seen a review of stc nd filter giving blurr image on yhe corners. please check it once for urself and make a video on that. in video mode too.thanks.
I shared that dissenting review in my first video. I don't experience that.
If there is any way you can use your celebrity to suggest to them to create a 13 or 14 stop ND filter and a Hot Mirror filter, we would all be eternally grateful.
They've checked my videos in the past for feedback, I imagine they'll do it with this one too.
@@robhallphoto That's awesome. I usually use B+W filters until I got the Fuji 8-16. When I compared it to the STC filter, I did the math and found out the B+W 10 stop is more like a 12.5-13 stop and I liked how dark it was. It really helps get longer exposures during the day. A Clip Hot Mirror filter would turn full spectrum converted cameras to normal cameras that you can use circular filters with at the same time.
Too expensive for me.
I'm not sure I can take advice from somebody so skinny.
The opinions in this video definitely carry less weight.
@@robhallphoto Okay, Slim-Me, touche.