Such detailed and well-made information deserves recognition. For my part, I am waiting for my STC filters to arrive tomorrow. I hope I got my choice right. Greetings from Spain
This video promted me to take a look at these filter type. Then I noted the Kolari vision was rolling out clip in filters for Nikon Z, which I bought and thus far, very happy I made the purchase. Thanks for sharing.
They are relatively easy to DIY. I used a E 0.29 black plastic file folder to cut out the relatively complicated shape of the holders. I glued gel filters from a Lee sample booklet with contact glue. (dark red, light red, orange, teal and indigo). Works just as good as expensive filters with my 7 artisan fish eye and my super wide objectives, which have a curved front element.
Thanks for your discussions on shooting infrared. I’ve been shooting with external lens filters for 8 months now and I recently decided to switch to clip-ins to cut down on the number of missed shots because of sun flares and glare. I have really nice, coated Kolari filters which do a great job limiting the flares and glare, but I’ve nevertheless missed out on some compositions I really wanted because of the sun’s position. I should also add that I tried using lens hoods, but the amount of things stacked on the front of my lens resulted in vignetting that compromised my picture. With the clip-ins, a lens hood becomes an option again for flares and glare.
Excellent! After taming hot spots, I've discovered that battling against sun flares and halos to be the next on going battle. They are certainly less of an issue with my clip-in filters than they are with external filters.
Thanks for the video, Rob. Did you get to notice any differences with hotspots. I figured there could be differences because of the difference in elements the light can bounce around you in.
I've not noticed a difference in hot spots using when using flange filters compared to external lens filters. That would be an interesting test, but you'd need the same filter in a flange and external lens form factor to really confirm. I suspect that there is not much difference, since the most problematic hot spots result from how IR light refracts within the lens itself. I would expect switching lenses to have a much bigger impact.
I suspect there will be little to no difference. The hotspots are a function of the AR coatings not being tuned for IR light as well as the dispersion/color correction of the glass elements being tuned for visible light. The hot spots occur in any case, IR filter or not, you just don’t see them with a hot mirror in from of the sensor.
Thanks. Very helpful. I have just had a Sony A6000 converted and i was tempted to get a full spectrum conversion and use these drop in filters but still quite difficult to get hold of them in UK and the few reviews i could find suggested that the Sony APSC filters were drop out filters and quite awkward when changing lenses which i do a lot in the field. So i stuck with another 720 nm on sensor filter. ps thanks for the white balance video and profiles; a huge help.
Thanks for mentioning. I got hese filters for my full spectrum converted A6000 and they work great. The only issue: Sometimes they don't stick very well to the camera body, has anyone else had this problem?
I love the idea of mount adapters for vintage lenses with filter slots. Unfortunately, the only thing like this I have seen is Canon EF-R, Canon EF-Sony, and astrophotography adapters.
Is there a benefit to using a drop in or flange filter over the one on the end of the lens with respect to reflections or flare? I would think having the filter closer to the sensor would possibly reduce those negative effects.. but not sure…
There might be a slight benefit, but only over using circular filters with multiple step-up rings that move the filter away from the front of the lens. I have seen artifacts when using many step-up rings. However, I've not seen any issues when using a circular filter directly on the lens.
Rob - thanks for the excellent video. I'm thinking of getting a set of clip-in filters for a converted Nikon Z camera and am wondering if you saw any negative effects of clip-in filters on optics... hot spots, sharpness, etc other than dust? I've heard some reports of odd color and exposure issues with clip-ins especially with wide and ultra-wide lenses.
I've used fisheye lenses with clip-in filters and not seen any issues. But I guess it will depend on the camera model and lens. Extra dust on sensor is the only issue I've encountered.
Very interesting. I just replaced my 590nm X-E2 IR with a 560nm X-T2 IR conversion. This might persuade me to go full spectrum with a new camera at some later date. Why is there no such thing as a light bag, or a clear changing bag? This would be ideal for changing a flange filter in the field. True, you could use some camera rain covers, but most are too porous and not suited to a dusty windy situation. Did you use STC flange filters for this video? They are the only ones I could find that are suitable for Fuji. STC says some lenses are not suitable but do not say why. They include 15-45mm, 14mm, 16mm f1.4, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 23mm f2, 27mm f2.8, 35mm f2 (but not 35mm f1.4) and 60mm macro. It can’t be a physical problem so it must be something like colour fringing. Do you know what the problem might be? If you used STC, did you try any of these lenses or are you still able to do so? Kolari have flange filters for Sony and Nikon so perhaps may have Fuji in due course. They do not mention any problem lenses with their current range. Kase have non-IR filters for Fuji and say they are not aware of any compatibility issues with lenses.
I like the changing bag idea. Something to explore. I suspect that the unsupported Fujinon lenses physically extend into the flange in a way that would touch the flange filters. Take a look at one of the unsupported lenses from a side angle, you will notice that a black plastic ring extends out beyond the silver mount. This black ring probably intersect with the flange filter. When I first discovered these filters, I was disappointed to learn that two of my most commonly used IR lenses are unsupported. As a result, I didn't purchase any for my X-mount bodies. With the GF-mount, the support is better, so I only have flange filters for the GFX system.
Hi, Rob. Excellent video! Another downside is they are quite a bit more expensive than screw in round Hoyas. I have an unmodified Z8. Do you know if the drop in Kolari as dark as the Hoya 720nM? I really like the idea of the drop ins so I can use some of my extreme wide angles. Also, how are the Kolaris shooting into the sun? My Hoya creates a huge amount of lens flare. Thank for all your help!
@@eddieagha5851 I have yet to specifically compare the Kolari filters directly with Hoya. In general, the Kolari filters that I have are of great quality and effectively block/transmit the wavelengths they are rated for.
I have Canon FD lens and a sony E mount camera. Any drop in adapters for this setup. most all I've seen is for ef lenses to sony and canon mirrorless cameras
Hi Rob. I just found your channel and I find it very informative and the best for infrared photos. I have a question , I'm into Landscape and deep Sky Astro. I got my Canon 6D Astro modified visible Ha. I was also looking at getting my old Canon T3I modified as perhaps Full Spectrum. Then ofcourse I ran into your channel. Now I'm interested in Infrared 590nm and 720. I would like to use infrared as a walk around camera. My question is if I get a Full Spectrum camera for Astro I'm assuming I can use filters to achieve 590 nm and then 720 nm? My idea is to make a 3 in one multi purpose Camera. Is this possible? Would I need long exsposure using Hoya 590 and 720 sin on filters. 77mm
A full-spectrum camera can serve as both an astrophotography camera with Hα, OIII, or SII filters, and an IR camera, with a variety of high-pass or dual-band filters. If you are using a 590nm or 720nm filter on a full spectrum camera, the exposure times will be comparable to visible light photography. The higher the value of the high pass cut-off, the more light is blocked and the longer the exposure will be. With an 830nm filter, you can still shoot handheld, but you might need to increase the ISO.
@@robshea thank you Rob for helping. I just picked up a Hoya R72 filter and my Full Spectrum Camera should be in on Thursday. I'm looking forward to this new chapter of Photagraphy.
If only they be little less pricey... My D70 is worth less :) But it's good option for Fuji if I get one. For Nikon I have only two lenses and one filter is ok, but for Fuji it would be few more lenses and much more different sizes. And beside that using filters is pain in the... thread.
@@robshea The problem is they got Nikon DSLR version and it would be nice not to bother with traditional filters. On my Irix I have 95mm thread and use some frankenmount down to 72mm :)
@@robshea Hi Rob. I just discovered your channel. Wish I did many years ago, there has been a lot of trial and error instead... I used to have a fuji S5 IS (full spectrum), then i had a xe1 converted for IR only. And it's what I have been using now and then. However I've been thinking about trying IR with a more modern , higher res , though unconverted , camera (fuji x or gfx). But I only have my very first filter for IR, i think it's Harrison and Harrison. Since I am looking for a bit more variety, i was considering these clip-on, both in IR and astro. So my question, why would you recommend these only for modified cameras? Thanks! And great, specialized content. Happy holidays and best wishes for next year. Cheers from France.
@@newnastyn With an unconverted camera, you are limited to 720nm and higher IR pass filters. You will want to use high-quality filters since low-quality filters tend to leak lower wavelengths of light. While I've had great success with the STC Optics clips-in filters on a full spectrum converted camera, their 720nm does not block as much visible light as my trusty Hoya R72. For unconverted cameras, I would stick to higher quality filters, such as from B+W, Hoya, Kolari Vision, LifePixel, and Tiffen.
@@robshea thanks! I'll try to clean up all the boxes with gear in them, now that you mention it i do remember a b-w filter... Maybe I can unearth it...
Hi Rob, My converted (mirrorless) Pentax K-01 is not listed as a compatible camera in the STC Optics site. I have a support email into them and waiting for reply, but I'm wondering in general if there is something different about the inside of a mirrorless (other than the "no mirror...") that precludes a flange filter.
There are a couple of factors. First, is the flange designed to allow a clip-in filter to fit in that space. Second, do the lens rear elements protrude beyond the rear mount. If so, this could occupy the space where a clip-in filter would go. This is the case with some of the Fujifilm X lenses.
Hi Rob! Can you help me with WB setup on a Sony A6300? I changed it to full spectrum. I can't get the custom WB right with both the 720NM and 590NM IR filter. I do it on white paper and in the green garden and it always fails. I'm in Brazil and the weather is very cloudy. Summer hasn't arrived yet and the sky is full of clouds. Do I have to go through the programs to set it up correctly? Thanks!
Some cameras might struggle to set a custom WB with an infrared filter on. Are you shooting in raw or jpg? If you are shooting in raw, you can also WB in your editor and that might be easier. It's not required that you WB in-camera with raw. Clouds would also be a fine subject for setting a WB on. WB in-camera is only required if you are shooting in jpg.
Such detailed and well-made information deserves recognition. For my part, I am waiting for my STC filters to arrive tomorrow. I hope I got my choice right. Greetings from Spain
This video promted me to take a look at these filter type. Then I noted the Kolari vision was rolling out clip in filters for Nikon Z, which I bought and thus far, very happy I made the purchase. Thanks for sharing.
Another really informative video which was easy to follow. Thank you
Nice one! Didn't know that there are such filters available until now! 👍🥳
Thanks for this information. I just checked the STC site and they clearly state that the IR clip-in filters are to be used only in IR modified bodies.
They are relatively easy to DIY. I used a E 0.29 black plastic file folder to cut out the relatively complicated shape of the holders. I glued gel filters from a Lee sample booklet with contact glue. (dark red, light red, orange, teal and indigo). Works just as good as expensive filters with my 7 artisan fish eye and my super wide objectives, which have a curved front element.
Full spectrum converted Sony 6000 a
Thanks for your discussions on shooting infrared. I’ve been shooting with external lens filters for 8 months now and I recently decided to switch to clip-ins to cut down on the number of missed shots because of sun flares and glare. I have really nice, coated Kolari filters which do a great job limiting the flares and glare, but I’ve nevertheless missed out on some compositions I really wanted because of the sun’s position.
I should also add that I tried using lens hoods, but the amount of things stacked on the front of my lens resulted in vignetting that compromised my picture. With the clip-ins, a lens hood becomes an option again for flares and glare.
Excellent! After taming hot spots, I've discovered that battling against sun flares and halos to be the next on going battle. They are certainly less of an issue with my clip-in filters than they are with external filters.
Thanks.
Good episode and very helpful Rob.
Thanks for the video, Rob. Did you get to notice any differences with hotspots. I figured there could be differences because of the difference in elements the light can bounce around you in.
I've not noticed a difference in hot spots using when using flange filters compared to external lens filters. That would be an interesting test, but you'd need the same filter in a flange and external lens form factor to really confirm. I suspect that there is not much difference, since the most problematic hot spots result from how IR light refracts within the lens itself. I would expect switching lenses to have a much bigger impact.
I suspect there will be little to no difference. The hotspots are a function of the AR coatings not being tuned for IR light as well as the dispersion/color correction of the glass elements being tuned for visible light. The hot spots occur in any case, IR filter or not, you just don’t see them with a hot mirror in from of the sensor.
Thanks. Very helpful. I have just had a Sony A6000 converted and i was tempted to get a full spectrum conversion and use these drop in filters but still quite difficult to get hold of them in UK and the few reviews i could find suggested that the Sony APSC filters were drop out filters and quite awkward when changing lenses which i do a lot in the field. So i stuck with another 720 nm on sensor filter. ps thanks for the white balance video and profiles; a huge help.
I am using a converted A6000 now, these filters work pretty well. I had to order them from asia, though.
Thanks for mentioning. I got hese filters for my full spectrum converted A6000 and they work great. The only issue: Sometimes they don't stick very well to the camera body, has anyone else had this problem?
Any idea about where to get M42 adapters with clip in slots?
Nice vid
I love the idea of mount adapters for vintage lenses with filter slots. Unfortunately, the only thing like this I have seen is Canon EF-R, Canon EF-Sony, and astrophotography adapters.
Is there a benefit to using a drop in or flange filter over the one on the end of the lens with respect to reflections or flare? I would think having the filter closer to the sensor would possibly reduce those negative effects.. but not sure…
There might be a slight benefit, but only over using circular filters with multiple step-up rings that move the filter away from the front of the lens. I have seen artifacts when using many step-up rings. However, I've not seen any issues when using a circular filter directly on the lens.
that gfx !!!!!!
Rob - thanks for the excellent video. I'm thinking of getting a set of clip-in filters for a converted Nikon Z camera and am wondering if you saw any negative effects of clip-in filters on optics... hot spots, sharpness, etc other than dust? I've heard some reports of odd color and exposure issues with clip-ins especially with wide and ultra-wide lenses.
I've used fisheye lenses with clip-in filters and not seen any issues. But I guess it will depend on the camera model and lens. Extra dust on sensor is the only issue I've encountered.
Very interesting. I just replaced my 590nm X-E2 IR with a 560nm X-T2 IR conversion. This might persuade me to go full spectrum with a new camera at some later date.
Why is there no such thing as a light bag, or a clear changing bag? This would be ideal for changing a flange filter in the field. True, you could use some camera rain covers, but most are too porous and not suited to a dusty windy situation.
Did you use STC flange filters for this video? They are the only ones I could find that are suitable for Fuji.
STC says some lenses are not suitable but do not say why. They include 15-45mm, 14mm, 16mm f1.4, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 23mm f2, 27mm f2.8, 35mm f2 (but not 35mm f1.4) and 60mm macro. It can’t be a physical problem so it must be something like colour fringing. Do you know what the problem might be? If you used STC, did you try any of these lenses or are you still able to do so?
Kolari have flange filters for Sony and Nikon so perhaps may have Fuji in due course. They do not mention any problem lenses with their current range. Kase have non-IR filters for Fuji and say they are not aware of any compatibility issues with lenses.
I like the changing bag idea. Something to explore.
I suspect that the unsupported Fujinon lenses physically extend into the flange in a way that would touch the flange filters. Take a look at one of the unsupported lenses from a side angle, you will notice that a black plastic ring extends out beyond the silver mount. This black ring probably intersect with the flange filter. When I first discovered these filters, I was disappointed to learn that two of my most commonly used IR lenses are unsupported. As a result, I didn't purchase any for my X-mount bodies. With the GF-mount, the support is better, so I only have flange filters for the GFX system.
Thanks. Having problem finding STC magnetic Clip in filters, can you help with source?
The STC Optics flange filters are clip-in, but not magnetic. You are more likely to find magnetic filters for external lens mounting.
Hi, Rob. Excellent video! Another downside is they are quite a bit more expensive than screw in round Hoyas. I have an unmodified Z8. Do you know if the drop in Kolari as dark as the Hoya 720nM? I really like the idea of the drop ins so I can use some of my extreme wide angles. Also, how are the Kolaris shooting into the sun? My Hoya creates a huge amount of lens flare. Thank for all your help!
Interesting idea. I should try a test to compare internal filter to external filter when shooting into the sun.
and on the comparative darkness Q?
@@eddieagha5851 I have yet to specifically compare the Kolari filters directly with Hoya. In general, the Kolari filters that I have are of great quality and effectively block/transmit the wavelengths they are rated for.
Thank you Rob!
I have Canon FD lens and a sony E mount camera. Any drop in adapters for this setup. most all I've seen is for ef lenses to sony and canon mirrorless cameras
Both Kolari 590.red/kv and STC Optics have clip-in filters for Sony E mount.
Hi Rob.
I just found your channel and I find it very informative and the best for infrared photos.
I have a question , I'm into Landscape and deep Sky Astro. I got my Canon 6D Astro modified visible Ha.
I was also looking at getting my old Canon T3I modified as perhaps Full Spectrum. Then ofcourse I ran into your channel. Now I'm interested in Infrared 590nm and 720.
I would like to use infrared as a walk around camera.
My question is if I get a Full Spectrum camera for Astro I'm assuming I can use filters to achieve 590 nm and then 720 nm?
My idea is to make a 3 in one multi purpose Camera. Is this possible?
Would I need long exsposure using Hoya 590 and 720 sin on filters. 77mm
A full-spectrum camera can serve as both an astrophotography camera with Hα, OIII, or SII filters, and an IR camera, with a variety of high-pass or dual-band filters. If you are using a 590nm or 720nm filter on a full spectrum camera, the exposure times will be comparable to visible light photography. The higher the value of the high pass cut-off, the more light is blocked and the longer the exposure will be. With an 830nm filter, you can still shoot handheld, but you might need to increase the ISO.
@@robshea thank you Rob for helping. I just picked up a Hoya R72 filter and my Full Spectrum Camera should be in on Thursday. I'm looking forward to this new chapter of Photagraphy.
If only they be little less pricey... My D70 is worth less :) But it's good option for Fuji if I get one. For Nikon I have only two lenses and one filter is ok, but for Fuji it would be few more lenses and much more different sizes. And beside that using filters is pain in the... thread.
😆 Certainly not good for all systems. Hopefully more options become available for more systems.
@@robshea The problem is they got Nikon DSLR version and it would be nice not to bother with traditional filters. On my Irix I have 95mm thread and use some frankenmount down to 72mm :)
Thank you Rob. Where can I buy these? I have a Fuji X full spectrum camera.
STC Optics has filters for both X and GFX. I would recommend these for converted cameras only. usa.stcoptics.com/collections/fujifilm
@@robshea Hi Rob.
I just discovered your channel. Wish I did many years ago, there has been a lot of trial and error instead...
I used to have a fuji S5 IS (full spectrum), then i had a xe1 converted for IR only. And it's what I have been using now and then.
However I've been thinking about trying IR with a more modern , higher res , though unconverted , camera (fuji x or gfx). But I only have my very first filter for IR, i think it's Harrison and Harrison. Since I am looking for a bit more variety, i was considering these clip-on, both in IR and astro.
So my question, why would you recommend these only for modified cameras?
Thanks! And great, specialized content.
Happy holidays and best wishes for next year.
Cheers from France.
@@newnastyn With an unconverted camera, you are limited to 720nm and higher IR pass filters. You will want to use high-quality filters since low-quality filters tend to leak lower wavelengths of light. While I've had great success with the STC Optics clips-in filters on a full spectrum converted camera, their 720nm does not block as much visible light as my trusty Hoya R72. For unconverted cameras, I would stick to higher quality filters, such as from B+W, Hoya, Kolari Vision, LifePixel, and Tiffen.
@@robshea thanks! I'll try to clean up all the boxes with gear in them, now that you mention it i do remember a b-w filter... Maybe I can unearth it...
Hi Rob,
My converted (mirrorless) Pentax K-01 is not listed as a compatible camera in the STC Optics site. I have a support email into them and waiting for reply, but I'm wondering in general if there is something different about the inside of a mirrorless (other than the "no mirror...") that precludes a flange filter.
There are a couple of factors. First, is the flange designed to allow a clip-in filter to fit in that space. Second, do the lens rear elements protrude beyond the rear mount. If so, this could occupy the space where a clip-in filter would go. This is the case with some of the Fujifilm X lenses.
Hi Rob! Can you help me with WB setup on a Sony A6300? I changed it to full spectrum. I can't get the custom WB right with both the 720NM and 590NM IR filter. I do it on white paper and in the green garden and it always fails. I'm in Brazil and the weather is very cloudy. Summer hasn't arrived yet and the sky is full of clouds. Do I have to go through the programs to set it up correctly?
Thanks!
Some cameras might struggle to set a custom WB with an infrared filter on. Are you shooting in raw or jpg? If you are shooting in raw, you can also WB in your editor and that might be easier. It's not required that you WB in-camera with raw. Clouds would also be a fine subject for setting a WB on. WB in-camera is only required if you are shooting in jpg.
@@robshea Thank you Rob. I shoot in RAW. I go to make in Lightroon. My Canon T3i(600d) is perfect in 590nm and 720nm.
The camera has to be converted in order to use the flange filters?
Not specifically, but you are limited to 720 or higher nm high pass filters.
Would you have any examples?
@@ritadelcid2909 Which model of mirrorless camera do you have?
@@robshea I have a Fuji XT1 and a Xpro2. Converted Nikon and Olympus. I recently been using the filter adapter on my iPhone 14pro
@@ritadelcid2909 You can get them from STC Optics: www.stcoptics.com/collections/clip-filters
or Kolari Vision: 590.red/kv_clip