Volvo VEA Diesel EGR + Manifold Removal/Cleaning (V40 and other models)
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- Today's video reviews a weakness which is common to not only Volvos, but most of the "newer" generation diesels - carbon buildup. The EGR with all of it's emission reduction benefits is one of the biggest contributors to the soot buildup, which as a result affects the lifespan and performance of the engine. If you don't do any cleaning procedures once in a while chances are buildup will either cause EGR valve getting stuck or its cooler to get clogged. Moreover, the recirculated exhaust gases will also pass through the intake manifold, thus speeding up the swirl flaps failure too. The procedure shown in this video is quite straighforward and could save you a lot of money, so check it out!
Procedure is applicable to all of the 2.0 VEA diesel variants - D2, D3, D4.
( code D4204T** )
Part numbers:
- EGR to cooler seal - 31370267
- EGR pipe gasket (to manifolds) - 31370981
- Intake manifold to throttle seal - 31370167
- Intake manifold gasket - 31370166
- Acetone for EGR + Carb cleaner
Link to my website:
www.gsautomods.com/volvo-soft...
The link for my facebook page, where you can find about the future volvo service I'm planning on offering:
profile.php?...
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
00:20 - Dissasembly
09:12 - Cleaning of EGR
10:34 - Cleaning of intake ports
12:45 - Assembly
19:45 - Conclusion - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Awesome work on capturing the dis- and assembling process. I'm planing to do this on my V40 D4. This video will help a lot and boosts my confidence to do it by my self! Thanks for that!
How did you get on ?
Bravo, bravo, and such a demolition awaits me. Thank you for the instruction
Excellent video, props to you. I don't own a Volvo with the VEA diesel but still find it interesting to watch. Big plus for including torque specs, hex and bolt sizes and showing a complete reassembly too. Well done.
Amazing clarity and quality video. Thank you for taking time making this and the enormous effort that has made it look so professional.
Nice work sir
Nice work! Watched it all, but will attempt it this summer when the weather is better. Volvo S60 mk2 2016 👍
very good video, this is exactly what I've been looking for. thx
Superb video
Had the misfortune of needing to do this last year on a V70 in parallel with a DPF de-ash 😮 I found the most effective cleaner for the cooler was Bilt Hamber’s degreaser used neat with boiling water applied repeatedly and then using the strands from armoured cable to poke all the way into the channels one at a time - that was not fun 😵💫 Same product on the manifold and intake - BUT on the last valve the crud left a gap and leaked into the cylinder which was a bit of a brown trouser moment but thoroughly blowing it out with compressed air by removing the glow plug seemed to work 😬 The ECU then detected low compression (this was a software patch they added as I understand to stop the inlet melting 😮) but fortunately went away once the valves settled back to closing fully 😮💨
Great video thank you very much. Could you advice me please. Would you be able to replace glow plugs on your Volvo without removing intake manifold? Appreciate if anyone could advice please
Hi, Do have a video of the cylinder head removal for one of these engines?
Swietny film, dam radę z tą instrukcją zrobić to na silniku D3 w V60? 2.0 diesel 150? Wszystko jest tam tak samo poukładane? I jeszcze jedno - co z płynem chłodniczym?
Good video but you should unscrew and clean map sensor too 😏
I've missed capturing that in the video, but it is a good point 👍
This is an excellent video. Thank you.
My V40 (MY2015 V40 R-Design 190 with 120k miles on the clock) has been diagnosed as having stuck inlet runner vanes. I can see there is a lot of residue in the manifold by looking through through the MAP sensor hole. Is it likely that the runners or actuator will have been damaged or should a good clean fix the problem? The dealer proposed replacing the inlet manifold.
Hi, It really depends on the current state of the manifold. Sometimes carbon gets between the manifold and the runners shaft which can't really be cleaned manually. There are more professional methods with chemicals and ultrasound cleaning, but I'm not 100% if they would equally be applicable for plastic components. Unfortunately volvo had designed the manifold without the possibility of physically removing/deleting the runners, so best option would be to try giving it a good clean. The runners actuator is an easy one, you can remove it on its own and if you switch to ignition 2, I think from memory it would move once to closed/open position. Good luck.
Thank you - I'll let you know how it goes in a few weeks when I'm done@@GSAuto681
@@GSAuto681 I cleaned my inlet manifold & ports using this video as a guide. I removed the manifold with the high pressure pipe left in place by removing the engine cover support on the top of the manifold at the LH end. It was in a right mess & I think this was the dirtiest job I've ever done but well worth it. I had intended cleaning the EGR valve/cooler as well but on the day did not have apprpriate tools to remove the 2 bolts holding the pipe at the rear of the EGR valve. In my case they are Torx screws rather than hex bolts. This will have to wait for another time. The EGR valve action was also very stiff (I wouldn't have been aware if I wasn't doing the maintenance) but I managed to make it operate very smoothly using WD40 and a little high temp grease.
The actual swirl flap assembly can be carefully unclipped from the manifold moulding which gives better access to clean both parts. Reassembly with new gaskets went well & I've since done about 2000 miles with a much smoother engine. I've since bought a small OBDII scanner and I can see in live data that the flaps are correctly following the demand accross the whole range 0-90 deg. I do still however have a remaining problem. DTC P200900 sometimes gets reported on its own but not consistently - I may go several hundred miles or just a few. The freeze frame data doesn't seem helpful as it shows the engine not running. Any clues or advice?
@@user-yp5fb5kg3y Hi, I'm glad you've found the video useful. In terms of the fault code, that seems to me like a few things. It's either the runners still slightly sticking (quite disappointing volvo didn't make them deletable), it's the runners actuator not been mounted back correctly (if you've disassembled it), or it's the wiring/actuator itself. If you are going to verify the actuator mounting, before putting it back on the manifold, you can quickly verify its operation by switching to ignition 2, which will make it test itself/make a full arm movement, so at least you can rule out the actuator mechanism. Good luck with that!
I'm replacing cylinder head cover pecking Volvo xc90 4 cylinder 2016 D4... Then vehicle doesn't start..... Error r showing in injector programing based error, Algorithm based error.... What's a problem pls ask me.... Thank you and thank you for knowledgeable video provide
Hi, marker en you are using.
Great video! you made it to look "easy" to do.... if theres an EGR check engine code, is it enough only to clean the EGR? The Manifold part looks hard for me :(
Absolutely. In fact on those engines most of the time it's the EGR cooler and not the valve, but surely if you taking it off can give a good clean to both!
Hi, Can you remember if its possible to get to heater plugs 3 and 4 by removing the Vacuum tank or, does the manifold have to come off? Thanks.
No Is the answer. :-(
In the 8:43 part of the video, in my car, the screws are T30 torks, and this is impossible to remove. It's stuck. I've already applied WD to try to alleviate them, but I can't remove them, would there be any tips to help me?
Great
How did you unscrewed the 30 mm bolts from 8:43 ? i'm stuck to that part because I can't do it.
Try using a spanner or a long ratchet.
Thanks@@georgistefanov9166 . I have removed the part from back of the engine of the intake and with a long ratchet you have some space .
I'm having the same problem getting rid of the screws on my car, the screws are T30 torks, and it's impossible to remove. It's stuck. I've already applied WD to try to alleviate it, but I can't remove them.
Is VEA D5 2.0 the same?
It seems the 2.0 VEA D5 is the same but has more power due to different ECU mapping. The "D5" is very different.
Vea d5 is i think the same, it just has a different tune on it
Please show us how to change the timing belt
Hi, it's been done on my car already, but if I can find a donor might give it a try.
It's not a hard job although Volvo will tell you it is and you need a timing tool to remove the lower crankshaft bolt, you don't I used white marker on crankshaft bolt and cam bolt the injector pump locks up with a 8mm bolt
@@GSAuto681 Let me ask you one more question about changing the timing belt. The camshaft moves slightly when tightening the timing belt tensioner. How do I adjust the timing belt tension?
@@stephenlockwood437 What is the white marker going to do on the crank bolt?
@@fredflintstone2077 you can buy the Volvo tool to hold the crank shaft in place there are timing marks against the lower pulley and crankshaft oil seal the white marker will highlight these marks most automotive guys put the white marker on there so they are 100% sure the engine is still in time