ATTENTION! In the video I used the stock height valve covers. If you use roller rockers like me they interfere very slightly. If you use regular stamped steel rockers like the stock ones you can use the stock height valve covers as I did in the video. I noticed this just before the dyno and put the correct TALL style valve covers at this link www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-440362 So use that link not the video part number if you have roller rocker arms like me. THANK YOU FOR WATCHING!
I just want to let you know, this is the most in detail video I’ve seen on anything build related. I’m getting ready to do this myself, and will 100% refer to this. Thank you for taking the time!
This really is the most informative step by step build series I've ever seen. My ONLY complaint is... Holy balls these parts add up reeeeal fast! I'd love see a budget LS Build by this dude.
Speed costs money. But you don't have replace everything like I did. Thanks for watching! Here is an entire list of what we used www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/newproductreleases/2carpros-5-3l-gm-ls-engine-build-parts-combos-now-available-at-summit-racing
As someone just getting interested in more advanced wrenching such as rebuilds, this series has been a treat to watch. Although I was disappointed that this is a new series (I have to wait for more?!) I am glad you have been so thorough and informative. It really helps explain for those of us being inspired to do it for the first time. Excellent videos, thank you for these, now I'm hooked!
Great job, I can hardly wait to see how much horse power it makes. I have already have my summit racing pages marked and started saving for the parts. This should get me through the trails and up the big hills with no problems. Rock Bouncing, the ultimate thrill ride, the only roller coaster that you get to drive.
Nice! I think it will make pretty good power! That is a good point about crawling, it's just too gnarly for me lol Thank you so much for watching Randall!
This is simply amazing I've never didactic ls rebuild but I most definitely will be doing one on my 5.3 with tremendous confident with the help of these videos
Realy awesome series! I absolutly love it. But please check, a knock sensor had nothing to do with NOX. It is for misfire and explosions (fires) before it should ignite, so the knock sensor prevent the motor before damage. Please let them in. Especially for tuned engines the knock sensors are very important.
Fel-Pro makes gaskets for quite a few OEMs. I have opened both FCA and Ford packaging, and it says Fel Pro right on it. It is high quality. Don't skimp.
Just turn the engine over by hand. If the valves hit it wouldn't turn. And where our heads got re built put our spring bind at 0.710 which is totally fine. Thanks for watching!
man I binged watch all your vids , cant wait til my parts come in , I next day aired my shit because i couldnt wait.... Great content , you showed every single step
Great video! What would you recommend for a low end manifold? I am just about to start my LM7 rebuild and live your videos and glad I came across it. Thanks
I would look into re-using the stock one to save some bucks if you still have it. It is decent and free if you still have the unit from the tear down. Thanks for watching!
awesome videos dude! don't hate on the plastic trunk intake too much "boo" lol that aluminum one is gonna rob a lot of horsepower throughout the whole rpm range. looks great, totally agree but bad for performance
Hello, I followed every video step by step building my LS 6.0 My question: I notice that after installing heads/ pushrods the engine was harder to turn, almost felt like it was bidding. It's that normal? Turning smooth prior. Notice it was hard to turn for you, but did it feel like binding. Thank you for your help and videos.
Love the videos, they are a great resource for first time builders such as myself. Like many others have said before, it gave me the confidence needed to start my project. I have a fitech ultimate LS setup, do I need the knock sensors or can I do without them?
If I’m doing a stock set up. With it not being bored over.. but all performance upgraded parts forged pistons everything new.. can I use the ict valley cover your using?. Or do I have to use my stock one with the knock sensors..
Hi sir thanks for the video quick question You delete the knock sensors then??? I have a 2004 chevy silverado 5.3 I'm thinking you order the same intake like yours but I would like your help if that intake I will fin in my truck thanks for the info.
Yes I did, this is an hot rot application not for stock use. You can put them right back if you want. That intake should fit your truck but you can ask the Summit support team to be sure.
All of the valvetrain is stock proportions except for the camshaft which is on the smaller side so it was all going to work together. Thanks for watching!
If you have an emissions control vehicle you will need those sensors. This is going in a hot rod at some point so we don't need them. Thanks for watching!
Man that dreaded sheet metal intake shows its head yet again. the 5.3 makes OK power but using that intake has too many negative to overcome the one positive (looks).
The ones we used aren't terribly expensive. But you could very easily use the stock set from GM if you are really looking for budget friendly. Thanks for watching!
hey thanks for the reply awesome content! decided to go with Summit Racing SUM-G6980 - Roller Rocker Arms for ls1/ls6 that you went with. do you know if they will fit with the stock valve covers?
Hey bud. Great video! Your series is giving me the confidence to try this on my own. Dropping a 6.0 in my previous 4.8 truck. Two questions...You said the knock sensors were not included due to emissions. I thought knock sensors also told you when your vehicle is knocking and detonating which would help with tuning? I understand not having emissions and a stock computer which compensates for that. I am only referring to the tuner when tuning the vehicle. I thought knock sensors were a must? Second question: Is the car that motor is going in going to be boosted? I ask because there is proven dyno results from multiple reputable companies which show that sheet metal fabricated intake manifold making significantly less power than stock. I did use that manifold on my last turbo ls setup and wasn't worried about it because I just add more boost to make up for it. But for a naturally aspirated 5.3 the best intake manifold is the NNBS truck intakes or a TBSS intake manifold on a budget, or a FAST intake manifold if not on a budget. Though the intake manifold does look very cool. I have had a few of them. Keep up the content bud. Very informative and detailed. I thank you.
Here is the build sheet if you want to add it up sans labor. www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/newproductreleases/2carpros-5-3l-gm-ls-engine-build-parts-combos-now-available-at-summit-racing
Oh. Get an inch-pound torque wrench for crying out loud. It doesn't have to be Snap On. Mine is actually Gear Wrench, and wasn't $389, or whatever Snap On makes up. I hardly use it. I use for plastic manifolds, as they are all over the place. 72-111 in/lb, depending on what manifold, fastener, etc. I'm new to the channel and love the content. But the coolant lines are there because cold air does not light. The air is compressed, which causes it to heat and vaporize the fuel. The vehicle is better with coolant lines heating the intake, just a little. In fact, diesels, after the charge air cooler, often go through a heating grid to maintain a constant temp.
I have one now and barely use it for anything. Honestly I feel like could never have one and be just fine. The steam lines are there to get air bubbles out of the top of the engine so you don't get heat spots in the heads. Thanks for watching!
the coolant line on the throttle body of a gas engine is to keep the butterfly valve from freezing closed, not to maintain a warm intake air temp. cold air certainly will ignite, in fact the colder your intake air temp the better due to the higher air density. A heating grid on a diesel is not for maintaining intake air temperature, it's only to aid in cold starts. Cummins light duty truck engines (4BT, 6BT) are the most common you'll see a grid heater in. Other light duty diesel engines (Isuzu, Navistar) use "glow plugs" to warm the air within the cylinder to aid in cold starts, they don't use a grid heater at all. As the intake air is compressed the temperature does increase, but this is NOT what vaporizes the fuel. the injector has that responsibility.
@@four112 No. It is there to keep the air a little warmer. Did you know increasing compression raises power while increasing air temps? The air isn't heated, it is just warmed a little. Even untuned old ass factory carburetor cars have it. They have what looks like dryer hose from the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the air cleaner. Cold air does not vaporize fuel. If you were told that in school, ask for your money back.
@@nickma71 it's intent is to warm the throttle body to keep the butterfly valve from freezing closed, not warm the air. Compressing any gas raises the temperature, and when you raise the temperature of the intake air it lowers the oxygen density and consequently the potential power of that air. The lower the temperature of the intake air the better, you don't want to lower the oxygen density by warming it! just do a search: "what are the coolant lines on a throttle body for" it'll clear it up for you. The old cars that had the hose from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner were to assist in warming the engine, they closed at a certain temperature. No need to go to school for any of this it's pretty straight forward, and again the air isn't vaporizing the fuel the injectors are (actually they atomize it, not vaporize).
ATTENTION! In the video I used the stock height valve covers. If you use roller rockers like me they interfere very slightly. If you use regular stamped steel rockers like the stock ones you can use the stock height valve covers as I did in the video. I noticed this just before the dyno and put the correct TALL style valve covers at this link www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-440362 So use that link not the video part number if you have roller rocker arms like me. THANK YOU FOR WATCHING!
I just want to let you know, this is the most in detail video I’ve seen on anything build related. I’m getting ready to do this myself, and will 100% refer to this. Thank you for taking the time!
Awesome, thank you!
looks great! next time grab some foam ear plugs for the bolt holes, fills them perfectly every time!
Ohhh good tip! Thanks for watching!
Great idea
I agree this is a great series and I’m looking forward to the final product. Very comprehensive.
Awesome! Thanks for watching Edward!
This really is the most informative step by step build series I've ever seen. My ONLY complaint is... Holy balls these parts add up reeeeal fast! I'd love see a budget LS Build by this dude.
Speed costs money. But you don't have replace everything like I did. Thanks for watching! Here is an entire list of what we used www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/newproductreleases/2carpros-5-3l-gm-ls-engine-build-parts-combos-now-available-at-summit-racing
This is the best rebuild video I've ever seen, thanks for adding all the links, I'll be giving Summit a call, thanks again.
I love super technical you are and go by the book and specs and then you’re like “whoopty-do’s” and “fancy pants valley cover” .. hilarious! 😂
Gotta have fun with it! :) Thanks for watching!
Doing my first rebuild, and this series gives me alot of confidence. Super thorough!
You got this Bryce! Thanks for watching!
I 2nd this!!!
As someone just getting interested in more advanced wrenching such as rebuilds, this series has been a treat to watch. Although I was disappointed that this is a new series (I have to wait for more?!) I am glad you have been so thorough and informative. It really helps explain for those of us being inspired to do it for the first time. Excellent videos, thank you for these, now I'm hooked!
Glad you like them! Well you won't have to wait too long! The next video for the series will be up on 2/13. Thanks so much for watching!
Great job, I can hardly wait to see how much horse power it makes. I have already have my summit racing pages marked and started saving for the parts. This should get me through the trails and up the big hills with no problems. Rock Bouncing, the ultimate thrill ride, the only roller coaster that you get to drive.
Nice! I think it will make pretty good power! That is a good point about crawling, it's just too gnarly for me lol Thank you so much for watching Randall!
looking good!! Congratulations on ur sponsorship for this build, summit racing is a big player
Hey thanks Dr.T :) And thanks for watching!
This is simply amazing I've never didactic ls rebuild but I most definitely will be doing one on my 5.3 with tremendous confident with the help of these videos
Love the build I use the same intake and throttle body
Looking Beastmode👍😎
Haha thank you!
Great series man, really enjoy watching it
Thanks a ton for watching Tristan!
Realy awesome series! I absolutly love it.
But please check, a knock sensor had nothing to do with NOX. It is for misfire and explosions (fires) before it should ignite, so the knock sensor prevent the motor before damage. Please let them in. Especially for tuned engines the knock sensors are very important.
Fel-Pro makes gaskets for quite a few OEMs. I have opened both FCA and Ford packaging, and it says Fel Pro right on it. It is high quality. Don't skimp.
Love Fel-Pro.
Still need to check your valve clearances to the piston with your cam and for spring bind at max lift on intake and exhaust.
Just turn the engine over by hand. If the valves hit it wouldn't turn. And where our heads got re built put our spring bind at 0.710 which is totally fine. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros That is insufficient. Valves can float at high rpm. The clearances should be checked for tolerance.
Video def needs more views, great production quality and a fun build to watch.
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Regarding the knock sensors, you don’t have to cover them up? A plug maybe?
These videos are awesome! The detail is spot on. Well done!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching Mike!
This dude is the Bob Ross of engine assembly 🤣
Thanks so much for watching!
Thanks for this great video
Glad you liked it!
man I binged watch all your vids , cant wait til my parts come in , I next day aired my shit because i couldnt wait....
Great content , you showed every single step
Very cool! Thanks so much for watching all the videos! Let me know how your build goes!
GREAT JOB DUDE !! JESSE VIA LAS VEGAS
Thanks for watching!
On those inch-pound bolts, blue locktite is your friend!
I'd be so scared of it doing the job tool well and I wouldn't be about to get the bolt out without stripping the head. Thanks for watching Scott!
Great build. Black engines never have oil leaks. 😜
This is a correct statement! Thanks for watching!
Awesome series! Enjoying it all! 🤘
You rock! Thanks for watching!
Bruh why you so excited whenever you say "SUMMITT RACING " sponsored. 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆
Because I love Summit and I'm excited to be sponsored by them. Thanks for watching!
Even since I’m not rebuilding fully, do you recommend taking out the knock senser and rebuilding the intake manifold like you did
If you intend on using the stock tune and stock harness then I'd leave the knock sensors. Thanks for watching!
Can you use stock injectors and fuel rails until you get aftermarket injectors and fuel rails?
Yeah totally! The stock injectors rock anyways.
@2carpros ok cool I'm thinking about doing this and did you notice any power gains?
@@Businessecomm.Ai1 You wont really see any gains with aftermarket injectors at this level. Thanks for watching!
I finally figured out who you look like Randall j. Weems from that show recess
I have never been more insulted in my life. I don't have red puffy hair, no spindly little body, and I'm no nark good sir.
So I didn’t have to adjust the piston to to top dead center to make torque them down like the stock ones
Great video! What would you recommend for a low end manifold? I am just about to start my LM7 rebuild and live your videos and glad I came across it. Thanks
I would look into re-using the stock one to save some bucks if you still have it. It is decent and free if you still have the unit from the tear down. Thanks for watching!
awesome videos dude! don't hate on the plastic trunk intake too much "boo" lol that aluminum one is gonna rob a lot of horsepower throughout the whole rpm range. looks great, totally agree but bad for performance
Thanks for watching Blake! According to Holley and Summit it should make more on the top of the RPM range. But we will see on the dyno.
@@2carpros have to run both to know for sure lol
Hello, I followed every video step by step building my LS 6.0
My question: I notice that after installing heads/ pushrods the engine was harder to turn, almost felt like it was bidding.
It's that normal?
Turning smooth prior.
Notice it was hard to turn for you, but did it feel like binding.
Thank you for your help and videos.
I mean adding valvetrain will always make an engine harder to turn. But are the valves crashing on the pistons for some reason? Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your your feedback and help.
I'll double check to make sure they are not hitting anything.
Again thank you, great videos.. (all)
im having troubke witg the sheet metal intake, its not linng up right.
Would a 6.0 ls build be the same as far as taking apart and putting back together as the 5.3 build
Basically yes. Very similar. Thanks for watching!
What about the knock sensors?
Did you relocated them?
And the sensors underneath?
With that cam, push rod length didn’t change from stock?
Nope. It's not a big enough cam to warrant it anyways. Thanks for watching!
Great video.. get a in. lb. Torque wrench. Inexpensive on Amazon…
I feel like those wouldn't be very accurate anyways and I can feel it out pretty well when it comes to things like in this video. Thanks for watching!
Great build I love it , what size are the 4 vacuum fitting under the intake manifold ?
Great video man! Are you gonna do a video on the fuel rails?
Dynamite!!!
Did you delete the knock sensors completely? Or did you move them somewhere else?
I got rid of them completely due to this going in a pre emissions vehicle. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros but Aren’t you taking a Risk in deleting them ?
This is showing for ls1 etc but doesn’t show for LM7? So it fits?? Also mine has a fuel return? How does that work with the supplied fuel rail?
This is a LM7 full stop. Just put the other an fitting on the other side of the fuel rail for your return. Thanks for watching!
Love the videos, they are a great resource for first time builders such as myself. Like many others have said before, it gave me the confidence needed to start my project. I have a fitech ultimate LS setup, do I need the knock sensors or can I do without them?
Awesome! Thanks for watching. You would only need the knock sensors if you had a stock setup.
@@2carpros so if you planing on upgrading your cam and springs you don’t need the knock sensors?
If I’m doing a stock set up. With it not being bored over.. but all performance upgraded parts forged pistons everything new.. can I use the ict valley cover your using?. Or do I have to use my stock one with the knock sensors..
No, you are going to need the knock sensors. I believe they make a relocation kit for them though! Thanks for watching!
Great videos very informative and are you doing something different with the steam port that was originally there or block offs??
Next video this Saturday I go over the steam lines. You can't block them off without having a ton of problems. Thanks for watching!
Hi sir thanks for the video quick question
You delete the knock sensors then???
I have a 2004 chevy silverado 5.3 I'm thinking you order the same intake like yours but I would like your help if that intake I will fin in my truck thanks for the info.
Yes I did, this is an hot rot application not for stock use. You can put them right back if you want.
That intake should fit your truck but you can ask the Summit support team to be sure.
Would this work for a 2002 Chevy Tahoe with a 5.3
Yeah if you don't live in a smog controlled state. Thanks for watching!
Exactly what injectors did you use ,EV1??? And what were they they for???
Check this video out! czcams.com/video/_38N4_dem8A/video.html Thanks for watching!
So tou deleted the knock sensors?
Yep. Hotrod application only! Thanks for watching!
What size Barb fittings are you using? Im trying to find them online but no one seems to know
I got a question can we talk over the phone
how come no knock sensors?
Don't need them in a tunned hot rod application. Thanks for watching!
Did you measure for the pushrod length when using the LS7 style lifters?
All of the valvetrain is stock proportions except for the camshaft which is on the smaller side so it was all going to work together. Thanks for watching!
When do you preload
Is it necessary to measure the pushrod length on a fairly stock rebuild?
Nah, just use stock length like we did. Thanks for watching!
Will this intake/throttle body have issues fitting with the truck style water pump where the inlet tube comes out the top?
It shouldn't no, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. What are you connecting to the bottom ports of the intake?
You could attach a brake booster or a intake vacuum reference things that need a constant source of vacuum. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks man. So if I wanted could I just plug all the vents on the bottom or do I have to use those for something?
What injectors did u use with that intake manifold
How much for all parts
If it’s an LM7, what does the “LS” refer to?
The platform of the engine family
Awesome
You're awesome! Thanks for watching!
Knock sensors must be tunes out ? I didn't see i put in
If you have an emissions control vehicle you will need those sensors. This is going in a hot rod at some point so we don't need them. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros we dont have emissions but i paid lots for several of them ...never again thanx
I have a stock block lq4 with 243 heads it’ll have a ms3 cam from tsp you think I would need to run knock sensors
Depends on what it is going into. Modern vehicle with cats? Yes. Old hot rod? Nah. thanks for watching!
@@2carpros is 83 considered hot rod for you?
Does that intake cause issues with the accessories or water pump like the ls1 intakes do
Nope. It clears everything amazingly. Thanks for watching!
Why paint it looks nice without
All personal taste. Thanks for watching!
i wonder how much hp that intake gains over stalk
I'm not sure. Looks cool though! Thanks for watching!
Man that dreaded sheet metal intake shows its head yet again. the 5.3 makes OK power but using that intake has too many negative to overcome the one positive (looks).
Idk our mild cammed engine made pretty good power if you ask me. Thanks for watching!
How are you planing to bypass the knock sensors
That is up to my tuning guy, I'm sure he could explain at length how he is using exhaust gas to not need a knock sensor. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros that’s cool I wold like to see that and or maybe a relocate video it’s a two hour job to change them in stock Location
Has anyone found a more Budget friendly option as far as rocker arms go for this build?
Or would it be best to purchase the set he has bought?
The ones we used aren't terribly expensive. But you could very easily use the stock set from GM if you are really looking for budget friendly. Thanks for watching!
hey thanks for the reply awesome content!
decided to go with Summit Racing SUM-G6980 - Roller Rocker Arms for ls1/ls6 that you went with. do you know if they will fit with the stock valve covers?
Hello where can I find the list of parts from summit racing?
Hey John, Summit is building a page with all the parts on it and I will post it when it is ready. Thanks for watching!
Again 106 in lbs. Can torque to 8 ft lbs. Or 9.
all black should have done orange
But all black is so Fonzie! Ehhhhhhhhhhh!!!! Thanks for watching!
Sent it over. Lol
Is the conversation worth it ?
Yep. Thanks for watching!
So it's ok to use my stock rocker arm?
Yeah if it is in good shape. Thanks for watching!
Hey bud. Great video! Your series is giving me the confidence to try this on my own. Dropping a 6.0 in my previous 4.8 truck. Two questions...You said the knock sensors were not included due to emissions. I thought knock sensors also told you when your vehicle is knocking and detonating which would help with tuning? I understand not having emissions and a stock computer which compensates for that. I am only referring to the tuner when tuning the vehicle. I thought knock sensors were a must? Second question: Is the car that motor is going in going to be boosted? I ask because there is proven dyno results from multiple reputable companies which show that sheet metal fabricated intake manifold making significantly less power than stock. I did use that manifold on my last turbo ls setup and wasn't worried about it because I just add more boost to make up for it. But for a naturally aspirated 5.3 the best intake manifold is the NNBS truck intakes or a TBSS intake manifold on a budget, or a FAST intake manifold if not on a budget. Though the intake manifold does look very cool. I have had a few of them. Keep up the content bud. Very informative and detailed. I thank you.
Does anyone know the exact cost of this rebuild ?
Here is the build sheet if you want to add it up sans labor. www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/newproductreleases/2carpros-5-3l-gm-ls-engine-build-parts-combos-now-available-at-summit-racing
What the years of your ls 5.3?
It is an 2001. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros okk thx! You are really intersted to watch dont give up
Each to their own but aluminum heads should not be painted as well all gasket or sealing surfaces should not be painted.
That's why I taped them off. Thanks for watching!
Oh. Get an inch-pound torque wrench for crying out loud. It doesn't have to be Snap On. Mine is actually Gear Wrench, and wasn't $389, or whatever Snap On makes up. I hardly use it. I use for plastic manifolds, as they are all over the place. 72-111 in/lb, depending on what manifold, fastener, etc. I'm new to the channel and love the content. But the coolant lines are there because cold air does not light. The air is compressed, which causes it to heat and vaporize the fuel. The vehicle is better with coolant lines heating the intake, just a little. In fact, diesels, after the charge air cooler, often go through a heating grid to maintain a constant temp.
I have one now and barely use it for anything. Honestly I feel like could never have one and be just fine. The steam lines are there to get air bubbles out of the top of the engine so you don't get heat spots in the heads. Thanks for watching!
the coolant line on the throttle body of a gas engine is to keep the butterfly valve from freezing closed, not to maintain a warm intake air temp. cold air certainly will ignite, in fact the colder your intake air temp the better due to the higher air density. A heating grid on a diesel is not for maintaining intake air temperature, it's only to aid in cold starts. Cummins light duty truck engines (4BT, 6BT) are the most common you'll see a grid heater in. Other light duty diesel engines (Isuzu, Navistar) use "glow plugs" to warm the air within the cylinder to aid in cold starts, they don't use a grid heater at all.
As the intake air is compressed the temperature does increase, but this is NOT what vaporizes the fuel. the injector has that responsibility.
@@four112 No. It is there to keep the air a little warmer. Did you know increasing compression raises power while increasing air temps? The air isn't heated, it is just warmed a little. Even untuned old ass factory carburetor cars have it. They have what looks like dryer hose from the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the air cleaner. Cold air does not vaporize fuel. If you were told that in school, ask for your money back.
@@nickma71 it's intent is to warm the throttle body to keep the butterfly valve from freezing closed, not warm the air. Compressing any gas raises the temperature, and when you raise the temperature of the intake air it lowers the oxygen density and consequently the potential power of that air. The lower the temperature of the intake air the better, you don't want to lower the oxygen density by warming it! just do a search: "what are the coolant lines on a throttle body for" it'll clear it up for you. The old cars that had the hose from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner were to assist in warming the engine, they closed at a certain temperature. No need to go to school for any of this it's pretty straight forward, and again the air isn't vaporizing the fuel the injectors are (actually they atomize it, not vaporize).
@@four112 I am aware of temps and density. The information you were given isn't wrong, just incomplete.
how can i contact you?
You can send me a message on instagram instagram.com/RyansGarage408/ thanks for watching!