How to Build a 5.3L LS LM7 V8 - Part 8: Replacing the Cylinder Heads
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Today are continuing our LS LM7 5.3 build series. This video is a step by step walkthrough on how exactly to take a junkyard 5.3L and polish it into a great engine. We are sponsored by @Summit Racing Thanks so much to them for everything they have sent!
How to Build an LS playlist: • Building a GM 5.3L V8 ...
Lifters (All 16): www.summitraci...
Lifter Retainers: www.summitraci...
Head Gaskets: www.summitraci...
Head Bolts (Gen 3) x2: www.summitraci...
Valve Springs: www.summitraci...
Valve Spring Retainers: www.summitraci...
Instagram: / ryansgarage408
If you have a car question ask it completely free at www.2carpros.c...
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions
Love this so much! This series is the straw that broke the camel's back and made me feel confident to start building my first 5.3!
Thanks so much for watching Devon! You got this!
rebuilding an 6.0 Lq4. this series has been invaluable. I'm truly the target audience rebuilding my first engine in my spare time in my garage. just finished tear down, waiting for the engine to come back from the machine shop. also, it's 2022, so one year later these videos have aged well. My 6.0 is going in a 1970 Nova
These rebuild videos should be in the LS Bible! KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK RYAN!
Thanks! Will do! I want to take the mystery out of it and bring back the era of building engines in your garage with your buddies. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I agree thank you very much this is very helpful And I'm looking forward to my build
I just finished binge watching all 9 videos. GREAT WORK. CANT WAIT FOR THE OTHERS!
Thanks so much for watching!
Currently at this stage of my LM7 build. Did springs and retainers for valves today. 💪 will put heads, pushrods and rockers in tomorrow.
Right on! Nice work! Thanks for watching!
Been waiting for this one! Currently doing a Ls swap myself your videos are a great help
Glad I could help!
I love this series, your attention to critical detail is spectacular. At some point it would be nice to get a feel for how much everything costs. I know that your costs are very different, so I am not asking what you paid for things. I'm asking for a ballpark figure as to how much we would typically spend to have heads machined, gaskets, bolts, etc for a non-racing DIY engine rebuild.
Hey thanks for watching! Well for all of the machine work plus all the head work out the door was like 2800-3000. But that was also in Southern California at a pretty high end race shop. I imagine elsewhere it would be much more reasonable.
Again, terrific video with everything clearly explained. Thanks.
Thanks for watching Pat!
Have a 2003 tahoe with over 200k miles, I’ll never end up rebuilding it but it’s still crazy cool how you’re able to teach someone how to rebuild an entire engine in like 12 episodes
Just have ur mommy and daddy pay for it
I just started building my engine last week and finding your videos was a blessing 🍻🍻🍻
That is awesome! We just finish the build this last weekend on the dyno too! Thanks for watching!
your a legend! love from houston texas! im on the road to lm7 glory
Rock on!
Years ago an old time mechanic taught me to use aluminum spray paint on both side of the head gasket-3-4 coats last coat put on while tacky an torque. Never had one leak ever 👍
Interesting tip! I could never do that here on my videos. People would lose their minds lol Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros hahaha, yes they would
Ryan thank you so much for this video you are the best you are so detailed and specific to every step of the way. Keep doing a great job. I’ve subscribed and liked it and will support you to the end you are the best.
I appreciate that! Thanks for subscribing and watching!
🇺🇲 He forgot to mention that you can't over lube your engine. Great series man I am watching them all. And I don't know how many times I said to myself "that's what she said" when you were talking about lube haha. I have a 05 5.3 LM7 and love it. Thanks for the great video!🇺🇲
It's tough not to say that! LOL Thanks for watching!
If you have the old lifters from the engine you should look and compare the wheel contact pattern patch width. If the new lifters have a narrower contract patch, you have China made lifters. I got into that, and had to RIP my engine back down and put the factory used lifters back in. I don't know why I replaced them anyway. Just a warning.
Speaking of the lifters....there is a bulletin on the lifter noise on colder starts. It rattles even with low miles. GM says it is normal, ignore it. If it bothers you, the list a part number from Comp Cams that won't bleed down.
I don't even notice it anymore. I really have to listen closely to hear something like that. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Keep putting out good videos. Even professionals watch. Trash gets old. Good stuff doesn't.
Legend 🙏
I’m surprised you didn’t go with your favorite ARP bolts for the head, was there a reason why? Great content and videos so far!
Summit didn't sell them at that time. Thanks for watching!
Great work! Man!!! U are a god
Wow, thanks!
Do you have the part number for the 10 degree locks used in the retainers on the heads?
I used Melling valves V1934 and V1935 . Locks i had to call Summit and they are backordered. Ordered on jegs but same thing. Finally found it on Amazon. PAC L8065 5/16 Steel Ocks 10 degree radius.
How did you get everything so clean?? Looks awesome and I love the video!
Thank you!! 😊 We used a hot tank when we got the block machined just threw everything in there with it. Then if there was anything else we used carb spray and or wire brush.Thanks for watching!
I had a weird experience when torquing the bolts on a cavalier 2.2 once. When torquing one bolt it just kept spinning like the threads were stripped out. I was like what the... Took a bolt I hadn't torqued yet and the one that kept spinning out and looked at them. Same length. Threads were perfect. I put the one that kept spinning in a different hole and the other one in the hole that kept spinning and everything torqued down perfectly
I’m kind surprised he didn’t go over installing the springs and retainers and valves.. unless the machine shop did that part?
The machine shop did that. I had the heads rebuilt so they came to me as if I ordered them new from Summit. Thanks for watching!
Any reason you chose stock TTY head bolts instead of going ARP head bolts? Just taking the heads off once pays for the extra cost of the ARP bolts. Love the series, thanks so much!
You are correct. But these bolts were available from Summit and the ARP ones weren't. Thanks for watching!
Do u recommend to torque head bolts after first heat cycle
You can't retorque TTY ( torque to yield) head bolts. Some genius engineer designed TTY head bolts to be stretched to just short of the breaking point. Once installed,forget about them
After you time your block is it safe to crank it by hand I’m curious to know I’m rebuilding one rn the heads just got installed and I cranked it a few times to check rocker arms
As soon as you tighten your main caps down, you can spin the crank as much as you want. Thanks for watching!
Would the original valve springs, keepers an retainers work if they look to be in good shape?
is it necessary to check lifter socket places for wearing?
Have you ever broken a head bolt tightening to spec?
Not yet. Thanks for watching!
Hey nice video I used the same cam that you used in your past video. Is there anything special I need to know when taking the heads to the machine shop as far as valves? Do I just request titanium valves as well?
This sequence will be the same for l59 engine correct?
Yep! The l59 is basically the flex fuel version of the LM7. Thanks for watching!
Are your new gorgeous stainless steel combustion valves the same size in diameter as the stock
Slightly larger as a new surface was machined into the heads. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Thanks YW wish I could've found you guy's sooner
Question can I put 862 heads from gen 3 on gen 4 ?
When doing head gaskets, does the surgace have to be immaculate? I just did mine and had some stains on the block suface, but felt smooth. Kind of paranoid, but I've heard mls gaskets are forgiving.
Stains are fine if it feels smooth. Thanks for watching!
Is there a specific measurement for the upsizing of the ports?
Couldn't tell you off the top of my head and the machine shop measure it with a flow machine to make sure everything is as it should. I don't have the paper anywhere handy and we are moving currently. But if you talk to your machine shop they will walk through the whole thing with you it is pretty cool and the first time I have had head ported. Thanks for watching!
Was wondering what part and part #'s you used for Valves. Another question. Do the cylinder heads require to be installed on the side of the block they came off? Thanks in advance and for answering the last question, i had on another vid!!
I try to answer them all but some do fall through the cracks.
Nope. The Heads are interchangeable. They only make one head, there isn't like a left or right head. I don't have a part number for those and the shop that did them closed down recently so I can't even call and ask. I know they are the biggest stainless valves that can fit in the stock head. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for the reply! No problem. I have taken Summit Racing salesman Donovan’s advice and ordered factory steel Melling V1934 units along with V1935 which he recommends for 450-500 hp. You’re opinion?
What stage port did you with for the heads?
Building the same motor out of a 2000 Silverado and the link you have for the head gaskets on summits website says these are for a 5.7 350. Are those the right ones? Videos are extremely informative thanks so much. Great job!
Yep they sure are. Loads and loads of parts for the LS's are cross platform. For instance you can take the heads off a 5.3 and put them on a 6.0. Thank you so much for watching!
@@2carpros👌 thanks for the reply, keep up the great content!! Now to get summit to send me one of those intakes 😆
quick question the same head gasket you provided in the description has a compressed thickness of 0.051 in. but when you did your compression calculator you used 0.040 as compression thickness. did you find another gasket in replace of that one or is there an mix up somewhere? im using the same recipe you are but using 243 heads but milling them down to the same as 706 heads. to obtain the same compression ratio.
I did the calculation way before I knew what gaskets I could run, so I just used the stock numbers. If you do use they same build as us make sure you get the slightly taller valve covers later on. I fixed the link but in the video they are too short. Thanks for watching!
Just out of curiosity, is there a reason you did not use the ARP bolt set for the heads? I understand the cost is 2-3x more, but they are reusable. And in the case of a backyard mechanic like myself, I find that regardless of how meticulous I am, there may be a reason I need to remove the heads again.
If I had to take the heads off again I would for sure go for the ARP replacement bolts. They just weren't available at the time. Thanks for watching!
Why didn't u just stick the lifters in the tray and drop the whole thing in and I think your trays are upside down
Because they can fallout of the tray super easy while trying to put them on. They are not. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros
If they fall out of the trays super easy, then the trays are worn, the lifters are not fully seated, or aftermarket trays are being used. You should be able to hear a distinct click.
what is proper ARP stud number? i prefer studs to stretch bolts..
I believe it is 234-4316 but double check your head compatibility. That part number would work on my heads.
What Is the desfront 5.3 thin 6.0
would had loved a link to the stainless steal valves but guess the shop got them when they redid the heads. also they say not to soak this kind of lifters in oil, but like you said lol better too much lube than not enough. great video's,
I got to do a head job on my 2003 Silverado after I found out I had a head gasket blown and water in my oil. run so good I didn't even know. I'm not a pro and broke so I'm wondering. can I replace the lifters and without getting new rocker arms and rods? also going to put 862 heads on because my truck has 706 heads that are on it now, they like to crack so would rather have the peace of mind to replace the heads. can't afford to do this job again. and while I got the heads off I feel I should take advantage to replace the lifters. but I'm on a disabled check so poor, so money is very low. probably take me 6 months to get all the parts and tools to do it, at least by then it'll be warm. lol but that's why I'm only going as far as the lifters and putting it back together.
anyway thanks for any info. great video's between them and the PDF 5 volume dealership shop manual I got for $7.99 off eBay. I hope I can get it done. I'm hoping for that $1400 in march I need some kind of ride I live in the country and hate begging people for a ride to the grocery store lol anyway thank you again for these 11 video's they have been very helpful, and the parts you link to, i heard cheap parts can destroy your engine, so even if i don't have the money i'm not going to cut corners
I would just re use the stock lifters if they are in good shape. I would just reuse everything in that situation. However everything needs to go back in the exact place and orientation you took it out of. Even the ones out of our 225K engine looked alright. Thanks for watching Gerald!
@@2carpros thank you. Yeah I might reuse the lifters but. I been had a small tap and figured it is a lifter. So I would love to fix it while I got the heads off. What about just replacing the one bad lifter? But in working on cars it always seems better to replace everything in a set. Anyway I can only spend a hundred or two at the month on stuff. So i plan to buy the heads one month then gaskets next, and head bolts after that. I would love some cheap prices on gaskets and bolts and etc. That are not junk. Because I only want to do the job once. Thank you. And i probably watch these videos many more times just to make sure I get everything right.
1 more question boss was your block decked or was it still stock deck height?
Stock deck. No material was taken off the block or head deck surface. Thanks for watching!
If I wanted to fbody swap a 5.3 into a 350Z, would I need a different type of oil pan, windage pan, and pickup? New to this
Yeah I image you would need a completely different oil pan and tray. There might be a 350Z forum where they would have specifics on that. Thanks for watching!
do you have a link to the valves itself? are they a stock replacement or did you upgrade the intake valves to 2", also what cylinder heads did you use for this build ? im guessing from the look of the stock piston rods that it is a gen 3 LM7 engine and that it would have had 862 heads, no?
No the valves are not stock. They are stainless steel and bigger than stock. We had our stock LM7 heads rebuilt by Superior Engineering with a port and polish with new springs and Manley valves. I don't have a part number for the valves.
Man I love the videos but you need more ls homework I have noticed multiple things done incorrectly just like the lifters it’s much easier to put them in the tray and put the tray in the block if you built many of these you probably would know that
This is my 3rd LS build and I really like putting in the lifters first but that might be because I grew up building SBC's and BBC's. Thanks for watching!
Were your heads ported at the machine shop or did you do them yourself?
They were ported at Superior Automotive Engineering in Placentia CA. Thanks for watching!
Did you have to get bigger valves? Or did u use the stock size?
So our heads were rebuilt with bigger stainless steel valves. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros greatly appreciated!
What torque wrench are you using?
This one was a Quinn 1/2" Torque angle wrench. But now I use a Snap On torque angle wrench. Thanks for watching!
Where did u buy your torque and angle wrenches from
That one I got over at Harbor Freight. They were the only ones stocking a degreeing torque wrench. Thanks for watching!
HF employee looked at me crazy when I asked for one. Do you have the part number?
@@markmarling1907 I just bought one.
Which heads are these?
These are just the stock 862 cylinder heads that have been port and polished. Thanks for watching!
Are those 706 heads?
Yep. Just ported and polished. Also we rebuilt them with stainless steel valves. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros quick question I'm following your build but the cam u used was out of stock. Can I use any stage 3 cam or would that change things as far as parts I'll need?
What stops a roller lifter from twisting in the hole?
Nevermind, I asked before I saw the retainers installed
No problem! Thanks for watching!
next video?
Working on it! Thank you for your interest!
Never use HARBOR FREIGHT and PRECISION INSTRUMENT in the same sentence again ...
Feels like it tightens exactly as accurately as my Snap-On one. But normally I'd agree. Thanks for watching!
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So how much are you charging to rebuild my motor lol seriously
Haha uhhhh quite a lot these things take a ton of time and parts. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros you really inspired me to do it on my own but I don’t nearly have tools or time
What kind of valve set up are you running? I've been trying to look for a set of new hardened valves but haven't come across any🫤
They are Manley stainless steel valves. I'm unsure of a part number. My head rebuilder did all the work for me. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros awesome thank you man I had ended up finding them! But you just confirmed which ones I was looking into getting!
Hey man I got a quick question, did you do any valve guide replacement? I'm having a hard time looking for them.. and I've heard that after market guides require different valve spring seats