Replacing clutch master and slave cylinders
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- The clutch pedal quit working in the the old nissan 720 pickup, so we get the master cylinder and slave cylinder changed out. And we check out some differences between parts store and oem brands.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
The child hood PTS of my dad yelling, "PUMP it UUUPP! HOLD IT! Are you holding it!". Good times and definitely will enjoy teaching my kids the way of bleeding brakes and or clutches.
Great video BTW! Very informative and straight to the point.
Lol, right! Thanks.
Excellent video. Informative, well edited and to the point. Often hard to find when looking for help fixing up cars. Thanks!
Thank you!
This video made the process easy and I didn’t have to question anything during the project. The answers are right here
Thank you. I'm glad it helped!
AMAZING VIDEO!!!! i came into this project clueless and got it done extremely fast!!!
Awesome! I'm glad it helped.
EXCELLENT JOB !! THANK YOU , VERY MUCH !!! GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY, TOO !!!
Thanks. I found the Exedy Equal on Amazon and decided to wait for delivery instead of getting the other brand right away at the chain auto store.
Terrific steady video, learned a lot. Much aloha, and mahalo nui loa.
I like that your wearing the t-shirt I sent you for Christmas lol and I like the new hair cut. Missed seeing you on here. Love you.
I like that shirt, but I have to be careful wearing it cause I get dirty so easily. Love you too.
excellent video and explanations - thank you
Very informative and detailed thank you
this education is what I need, thank you for the video. I am buying my needs for my 93 Nissan truck D21. God Bless Bro.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 is there any difference between the D21 and the Pathfinder besides the engine (4 cylinder vs V6) ? Both 1993.
@@777Timberwolf the only other difference I can think to consider is 2wd vs 4wd. The master cylinder should be the same, but the slave cylinder is different.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 oh okay, most appreciated.
Great video !! Well done and thank you.
Thank you for this very helpful video 👍💯
I subscribed because you’re wearing a blink-182 T-shirt thanks for the vid
Nice job. Very good process video and explanation.
Thank you!
@@deadpedalgarage6457 No prob! Watching your vid made my work replacing master/slave and cable a breeze. Again, nice work.
oh thanks so much for clear explanation ,so very helpful video..thumps up ..God luck..
Thank you.
Bleed screw should be where the line is. Higher to avoid air trapment
I have a question , how much would you charge someone if you were to do it for them
I compress the slave cylinder with a C clamp so there is no air in the slave cylinder(with the bleeder open), then bleed the clutch master cylinder, tighten up the bleed screw make sure the clutch cylinder is topped off and then take the C clamp off the slave cylinder that will draw fluid into the slave cylinder and there will be no air in it, then top off the clutch master cylinder again.
I'll have to try that. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for that suggestion...as I noted in my comment above, I'm having trouble getting the air out of my new system. Ill try your method...
This guy is great!!
Doing this on a Mercedes 240d ! Needing a 12mm flare wrench
Funny character 😄 great to watch ..
Thanks man!!
Question bro... Do you install another pin or reuse the pin for the clutch pedal?
I just always reuse the original pin.
Just completed replacing everything you did on my own 720, but I'm having a hard time getting all the air out. I'm using a pneumatic bleeder (because I'm working alone) and it's just not doing the job. I will explore alternatives.
I've never had much luck with the one person bleeders either. I have used a broom or something similar to hold the pedal down while I crack the bleed screw. It's a pain, but works.
Also, don't forget to bleed the damper on the firewall as well.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 Thanks for responding! I actually did use the pneumatic bleeder on the damper. I guess I'll try your suggestions about using something to hold down the clutch pedal. Thanks again!
Good vid..thanks for sharing the knowledge. How difficult on the bleeding if no helper?
The method I used in the video can be very difficult without a helper. You would need to wedge something on the pedal to hold pressure while you bleed the clutch cylinder. There are other ways like gravity bleeding or using a vacuum bleeder that would be easier to do alone. I personally have never been able to successfully gravity bleed, but have been able to use various vacuum bleeders to get it done.
Heat your copper washers to red hot with a torch, allow to cool down and they are as good as new
What size washers did you use
I purchased a multisize pack and used what fit best. Not sure the exact sizes.
Well I like this guy. Reminds me of electroboom
mine sucks air......no leaks.... Changed the master and slave 12 times.... I have to bleed it once a week been doing it for 9 months now.... This problem occurs with or without the clutch damper...
I was having a similar issue for a couple years, but not that severe. Mine would start sucking air, but not leaking anywhere maybe twice a year. After changing to what seemed like a better quality brand (exedy), mine has been working properly since. But I would also check out the rubber hose and the fittings.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 Sure enough to clutch damper is leaking on top after I put it back in.... But I had problems for months after I removed it Always having to re bleed... I've got a clutch for vibration I wonder if that's introducing air into the system...
Could I put this trans clutch set up on a 2011 Ford ranger 2.3 5 speed mostly because I want the easier to remove slave cylinder on this setup that doesn't take removing the transmission
It would take some custom made parts to put an external slave cylinder on. I don't really think it would be worth the time and money.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 is there a cable conversation
Conversion
Which side of the truck( passenger or driver) is the slave cylinder located in a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder SE. 3..0L
I don't have much experience with the 3.0, but I'm 90% sure it's on the passenger side. (Although, that does depend on if your truck is right or left hand drive)
It's attached to the transmission, passenger side
Finally used Parker conical flare seals 3/16"..... Finally got the clutch line changed sealed It's gotta be perfectly straight when you tighten the flair to clutch hose...I just put washers on the slave cylinder if needed to make the line not twisted.... No I've got a micro leak It shifts s like butter even 1st gear for about 6 hours then I have to bleed it
I just had to look that up, I didn't know there were flare seals available. That's a cool bit of information, thanks. As far as a small leak, I'd check the clutch damper on the firewall. Mine had a leak and would cause the same problem as yours. I ended up bypassing it because a new one was very expensive.
Also, I'm assuming you have the same vehicle as me (Nissan 720 pickup) which I just realized may not be the case.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 I have the 94 hb 2.4 rwd charcoalgrey
6 days....better than 6 hours
Do you have a part number for the rubber flex hose from the junction to the slave cylinder male to male ends?
What if the clutch pedal goes right to the floor and won't come back up?
Typically means there's alot of air in the system, so you may have to pull the pedal back out and keep pressing, pulling, and bleeding air out until the pedal returns on its own. Some vehicles have springs on the pedal to bring it back up, some just rely on pressure from the master cylinder.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 it's a 87 d21
How do you tighten a slave cylinder without twisting the hydraulic line when you're finished tightening it When you start to mount it?
I go over what I do starting at about 19:10 into the video.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 .... The flare nut wont unscrew its stuck solid I even tried to propane torch...that's why I can't tighen slave cylinder unless I put some washers in the To make the point of a different angle...
@@truth409 ah, I see. That's frustrating. The only other solution I could come up with would be to cut the hardline, put a new nut, re-flare, and replace the rubber hose. But if the rubber hose is in good shape, it may not be worth the extra effort right now.
@@deadpedalgarage6457 The rubber hose is turning the clutch fluid black I tried to replace it ......the flare nut finally came undone rather easily But now it leaks with the new hose Because of a Miss match on the seating range of the flare on the end of the hard line..
A punch to your own face would definitely suck bradda, bwahahaha. Good 1!
What size wrench for flare nut?
Nice video by the way
Thank you! The flare nuts are all 10mm, at least on my truck.
What year is the truck
1985
Well....autozone clutch line swelled cant shift......slave wont seal without thread sealer...on new clutch hose.....requires washers or hose is twisted....... If you put in the wrong number of washers then you have bits and pieces of thread sealant down inside your thread slave cylinder it's a lot of work.....when you dissamble it...........
The new copper washer is soft, but when it is used, torqueing hardens it. You can reuse them, if you soften (anneal) them. To anneal them, place them on something like a piece of steel, and heat them red hot with a torch (propane is fine). Then let them air cool, and they can be reused.
I didn't know that torque hardened the copper washer and that you could anneal them. Very cool bit of information. Thank you.
Why bleed at the damper, when all the fluid and whatever air is in the system can get bled from the lower slave cylinder. I did it this way when my slave cylinder needed replacing the system works fine……. and may I add, ChrisFix said to do this way.
It seems to take less time and effort if you bleed the damper before the slave cylinder. I've done it both ways on this truck and it just seems easier.
The air will rise to the top (master cylinder) so there's no way to bleed from the top, eh? Meaning, draw fluid from the slave bleeder up to the MC reservoir? Great video. Thanks!
Mine lasts 9 months........over n over
I had that happening on this truck as well. I had to go with a completely different company to stop that issue.
Naa this did not help