How YOU can Install Windows like a PRO
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2022
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I was asked by many how to install windows and properly seal them like a pro so I made an updated video sharing the process from start to finish. I hope it helps some out there. This process will work for the most part regardless if you are building a post frame or building a tiny home.
If you want more detailed drawings of our Post Frame structures and how we construct them, check out the RR Buildings Plans. They contain a ton of information.
rrplans.bigcartel.com/
Dewalt Roofing Nailer we use for trims. Excellent tool!
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RR Building Merch
rrbuildings.bigcartel.com/
For me, the ideas in czcams.com/users/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
I really like this format. Single topic from start to finish...what a good idea. Of course your other in-process videos provide the overall context (and this video doesn't replace those) but this is a great demonstration of a window installation.
Perfect timing on this. I’m elbow deep into a first time shed build and framing out a window today
You got it!
This video and the one "Layout Metal Siding Tips and Tricks" have been an enormous help for me and my students! Our private school and I as an instructor for a shop class, have taken on a project of re-siding our shop building 120' long by 40' wide. Doing it ourselves to save costs meant an education on this subject was very important. One long wall has been completed at this point, and yes, layout is KEY, which I did on CAD and on the wall. Our windows would have had ribs in the wrong places had I not adjusted their placement by 1-1/2". Thank you Kyle for your detailed information, your emphasis on quality and time savings, your time to making these videos, and your excellent delivery during your presentations that also did not waste any time. The students that are helping with the project are benefiting from the lessons I am passing on during the build. I count this as a non-financial contribution to our school! 👨🎓👩🎓
Thanks for the LEXEL tip. I found some locally and it works great. I even did a shoe sole repair with it.
Thanks for a no nonsense tutorial. Exactly what I needed to see. No dramatic soundtrack and no dogs were needed to convey information.
The fact that you post this hard fought for information speaks volumes about your character. Thanks for sharing!
Very balanced, informative and thorough guide to installing a window in a metal building. You provide humble opinions on your methods without claiming to be the only definitive method. Being respectful and open to other expert's views shows exceptional professionalism and you are a credit to your trade. Also, here in the UK I have a metal building project coming up and I will use this valuable information when carrying out my work.
Awesome format. As I am in the middle of building a 30x60 post frame enclosed barn (all modeled after your building methods), this is just what I needed in one video. Thank you Kyle and Greg...! Oh by the way, I love every detail of how my barn is turning out, including the 1000s in savings.
Your workmanship on mitered trims is sooo good!
Just finished framing a bathroom in our 67 yr old house and I used over 200 GRK screws (thanks to you!), love the way they go in, not one single stripped head or broken screw, even after taking them out and reusing a few. Thanks for your videos I always learn something new!
I am about to do sheet metal and Windows on a Versatube building and this was an EXCELLENT video on the process. Thank you for making it clear and concise and explaining why things are done this way.
Super neat to see how you installed and dried in your windows! I work on the Oregon coast and we tape up the two sides and then over the top where it overlaps onto the sides because we get so much driving rain that it helps really seal the window in. The bottom of course isn’t taped and the water would just drain off the sill-pan. Nice work 👍🏻
Amazing attention to detail. Very impressive. Your process is excellent for installing the window on a metal sided building.
The corner metal miter cut is something we will start doing now!!!! That’s real nice!
Looks mint to me. Thanks for the content. I've been doing steal roofing and siding in Minnesota for just about six years now. I've followed quite a bit of your videos and definitely implemented a lot of your tips and tricks to the jobs I do.
Thanks so much for this video! Tearing the siding off our old barn to redo in metal siding and adding some windows and door. I'm a little intimidated doing this myself but your videos are giving me confidence!
We can all agree on one thing. That level is a must have!! Great tutorial🤙🏼🤙🏼
Also thanks for the free samples
So I have been trimming our windows the past 2 weekends. FINALLY got it looking pretty good for a rookie anyways. One thing that helped me get a tighter fit around the window was to slightly bend the back of the J channel so the thickness of the window flange wouldn't push the J channel out from the edges of the window frame. Out of the 8 windows on our build the last 2 I am VERY happy with. The 1st few are okay but there certainly is a learning curve. I SO appreciate the videos Kyle! Couldn't be doin' it without your instructionals!
I have improved my work 10 fold from what I have learned from you! The only thing that I do differently in the North East is put the seal tape on the bottom flange first, sides, and then the head. other than that I would work with guys anytime given around here in CT., it seems all we have is Jack's in a truck. As always great content! Be well guys.
An absolute perfect video for anyone installing pole barn windows, even if you’ve never installed a window you could follow this and get a professional looking install with confidence it won’t leak.
Always impressed with the tidyness of your work. In WI, we were layering the sill of the rough opening of the sill with the flashing tape, now, here in CA that doesn't seem to be how things are done. Also, it is rare to use the house wrap paper. Of course i am in residential and most of it is covered in masonry stucco, something i am still learning. Also, your videos would be greatly enhanced with more Greg eye candy.
Kyle. Great video! That said, please continue to make videos on your build series. I really enjoy the content and it gives me ideas for other project I am looking at currently.
I love Lexell. Best caulk/sealant out there today.
Very good tips Kyle, thanks so much for sharing your expertise!!
Have been following your channel for awhile now. Always been awesome, but I am really enjoying the more in depth and simplified style of this video. It feels less intimidating and as well feels like an “all you need in one video” for a window install, which is pretty awesome for being able to go back and search for what you need when you need it!
Y❤️
Gt😂y
Nice job. I wish we had seen this video before we completed our barndominium. We added Haslet Frame Kits around our windows to give them a softer look.
GREAT stuff Kyle. I love watching the builds for sure, and would still like to watch those, but the build focus areas are awesome for sure. I'm sure when I finally get to build my shop, the people I hire are going to hate me. LOL...
Nicely done, Kyle is truly a trim ninja always enjoy watching your skill with the snips 👍
Enjoyed the video as always nice craftsmanship.
Sorry I don't have telegram I have whatsapp
I really like theses individualized videos 👍 great job
Well done editing! That's way more difficult than it looks. Great content!
Love your work!
Great tutorial, awesome level..... and those shades 🔥🔥
Great content Kyle..... keep it up💪💪
I like the format of these type of videos. Good job
Great video man! Love this style vid as well as the vlog style 👍
Great video. Great step-by-step. I hope to see the process you use on the inside of the window.
Awesome stuff Kyle, thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Very nice job, all I need now is a Kyle and Greg 😳😳, nice instructional video guys thanks 👍👍👍👍👍👍
That was a good install, thanks for the step by step explanation
Great job and informational!
Very, very cool. Thanks for sharing!
Very professional instructional video with NO Background Noise , a VERY important element to a good instructional video.
Excellent info my friend! Thank you! Seth
Exactly the window Install video I needed!
Great Video...Window are next on my building...Thank You
Great information on installing windows, like those kinds of videos , D oing specialized videos within the build.
Your Videos always a great Instructional Film. Then if you have a Garden is always what to Form. And as Selfi to mark Your the best Teacher! Thanks. 👌👍🤔
And another one and another one. Just keep dropping these bangers kyle but we need more Greg.
Guess Greg should start a channel??
Your videos are AWESOME!
Kyle, any way you could an entry door tutorial in the same fashion as this? Love the content, keep it up!
wonderful! thanks - I wish you guys were in CO to build for us.
Thank you, this guy is spot on. Bravo 👏
great info - you the man!
High quality work guys. The building I just had built is not near this. Few people see all the details. (sweat the small stuff).
Man, I saw those Junk-wen windows and thought you were cheaping out. Thank goodness it's only a shop and not a residence. Love all the content. Keep up the great work, Kyle...and Greg too!
Depending upon the model, jeldwen makes some excellent windows. There are high quality vinyl windows out there made by many manufacturers.
@Christopher Haak while true, I've learned my lesson with Jeld-Wen vinyl. I've sold them as a dealer (also sold Anderson, Pella, ane others), toured the Jeld-Wen plant, had them installed in my house, etc. Best move I made was to replace them.
Excellent video, excellent work.
this is really nice!
Thank you so much for the content. When I get my land, I would want you to build my barndo.
Very useful video.
Wow awesome clean work! MMC
I love the way you do window's but I would change that top detail. I usually don't like to rely on the sealant on the top trim. I live in a country where we have over 200 rainfall days a year and alot of wind. When we do trim above the window we usually have a drip cap trim🤟
My husband and I love watching your videos. Thank you for all the work that goes into them! We are curious if there is an update on the 1 million subscriber giveaway?
Good job
Tape the side first. lift up the top house wrap. Tape on to the top flange and wood at the top and bring the top house wrap on top with tuck tape
Thanks for the helpful tips on a window install. You do make all the steps look easy, but that's because you've done it 1000s of times I'm sure. I wonder if Greg has done 1000s of windows too or just 100s?
Excelente video saludos 👊 💯 💪
Thumbs up Kyle & Greg (for president!) 👍😁😎
Hello there very nice content again thank you for that! Im wondering, what if instead of putting a j trim on the top you put a started? Like the one that goes to the bottom of the wall
I like your videos, and you guys do some really nice work. I curious as to why you did not use a drip edge at the top J mould? We would normally do the trims very similar to you guys, but would have installed the drip edge first, then put the J on top of that.
Not a fan of the drip is all
My understanding is vinyl windows have drip edge built in. So then it would be like putting drip edge on top of drip edge.
I remember your early videos where your head trim didn't have that over hang. I think it's awesome that you're the first postframer to do the head trim this way. I hate seeing the other way on pemb's.
I’ve always done that since day one actually
@@RRBuildings maybe I'm thinking of the tab fold down thing from the head trim to jamb trim?
Yeah my bad.. I went back a watched some old videos. I was wrong. Post framers in my area always seem to miter the head trim to jamb trim and tab down the head into the jamb trim. Not sure how I attached you to that memory. Sorry Kyle.
@@kencoconstruction9236 I've always done it that way with the tabbing down on the header trim.
I like Kyle's method better I think.
@@steventhury8366 I was always taught the tab down made it impossible for the head trim to carry water away from the jamb which is exactly it's purpose. But then I've also had guys tell I'm crazy for saying so...... so it was cool to see Kyle do it this way to sort of reaffirm the method I use.
You guys need to do a video on installing windows in existing post frame buildings with metal skin exteriors.
Id tape all the way around that flange and call it good...thats just me. Nice work brother
Thank You
hello, great video 👍 what product do you use for interior sealing around window? I’m in Canada so we might not have the same brands. Thanks for all the fantastic info
If you if you leave a tab on the bottom part of the top "J" channel longer by maybe 10mm then fold that tab down, it works like a drip edge and you won't have the capillary action happen on the side and less chance of leaks should the sealant fail :-) nice job Tho ... in Nz we do it differently and windows would need to have more support than 2x 2x4 on there sides and the top flashing would be a "J" flashing is would be a "Z" flashing but its really hard to get the sheets on not like your demo..
Love your videos Kyle, but as architectural sheet metal worker the only thing I didn’t like is the top J channel install. There’s nothing terribly wrong, and you covered yourself with where you put your sealant and everything. It is the most important trim. It needs to be installed before the panel goes on, on the inside it needs have a lap down to the side J channel so water will flow off properly, and there needs to be sealant in the corners of the lap to make sure no leaks behind it. The way you guys have it now, water will go over the side and drip off, but since there’s no lap down, or a drip edge on it, water will follow the path of least resistance and flow on the under side of the top J back towards the side J/where your panel cut out is. Yes I know you have sealant back there. But also since it’s not mitered on the top and lapped, there is potential drip/staining away from the window which might stand out. Believe it or not it’s a real thing lol
I am one 100% with you.
Yeah, you shouldnt rely on a sealant that will fail with time, compared to doing the piece properly and not needing sealant like such. I notice alot of things this guy does similar to this... It seems like he is pretty green and that should prove that if you set your mind to something you can do it... even if it isnt always right
So if I understand correctly if the window fails or needs to be replaced the siding needs to come off to because the j channel is not as thick as the flange . I’m putting metal siding on a new home and want to have a long term plan . Is there a “q” channel option That would give me enough room to cover the flange?
Yes sir well said
Yep
Hi there, love the tutorials man! I have a question on the top J channel. what do you do if an outward rid ends up right at where you want the left or right side to end? how would you make those cuts then? Thank you :)
window artist at work
Boys do excellent work
Hey Kyle, do you think it’s worth the time to make little bend ups on the metal siding going into the side j’s to keep wind driven rain out or no?
Could you add a bead of sealant after you put your main piece of tin on where the tin overlaps the j channel? I know you have sealant underneath the tin but I have a situation on a deer blind where that didn’t happen. Trying to prevent water from getting under my tin and leaking inside.
really good stuff. What kind of metal siding is that one? Can you send me a link so i can look for it?
Thank you, for these videos. We had a barndo built August 2021, and it looks like my windows were not sealed. 17 Windows. Do you have a video on using Lexel for caulking around the windows exterior? I don’t want to slice my fingers around the metal, since the job is mediocre and could have exposed sharp metal areas. I’d like to seal my windows this fall? I also would like to add shelves to my she shed, I did not choose to finish-out the inside. Building stand alone wood shelves is ok, but want to use the metal walls.
My Dad and I hired a company named *LUCKY LUMBER in Seymour Missouri* to build a pole barn back about 7 years ago. All we had them build was the outside shell, as we already had the concrete floor done and we finished the inside of the building ourselves. But just after they got the shell up, the first couple big rains came that next week or so and there was 37 different puddles on the concrete floor from leaks in the roof. Company owner came out and couldn't have cared less. Should have sued them right then. We had to go up on the roof and fix all the screws that they just ran in any direction but straight, as the rubber seals were not flat against the metal and were leaking. Even then we still have two leaks to this day if it is a storm with heavy rain or wind driven rain.
During the years since then, we have had two walls rot out due to windows leaking. The first one was a couple years after it was built, the wall was not "too bad". Just had to remove all the insulation and replace several 2x4's under the window from the inside. And after multiple attempts to seal the window from the outside, we ended up building an steep awning over the window which basically made the window useless.
The second one I have been working on for the past few days. Had to take the entire wall apart, we had spray insulation which made it a lot harder to remove the metal and such, as they did not wrap the barn with any Tyvek or anything, so the spray foam is directly adhered to the metal. I had to remove all the metal panels around the window. Pulled the window to find there was ZERO sealant of any kind. They just nailed the window straight to the boards and that was it. _(No wonder we couldn't get the first window to seal.)_ Most of the wall from the window down, and all the way across from post to post was rotted out, so I had to remove and reframe everything. Which also means I have lost ALL the spray foam insulation from the window down, due to having to remove the rotted boards and reframe.
Now getting ready to start to reinstall the window, wanted to look up the proper way, your video is a lot of help. Just got to try to apply it to my application.
After this, I guess I'm going to have to go pull the 3rd window as I am certain they did it the same way as these other two. Which just happens to be where I built my 12ft long 2x12 workbench, that is built into the wall. Which means I'm going to have to disassemble my bench before I can even begin to take the wall apart, which will be a job in and of itself.
There is a 4th window, but it is under the lean to on the back of the barn. So unless its straight line winds or something, rain doesn't reach it.
So as a Word of Warning... Anyone reading this in Missouri **** STAY AWAY FROM LUCKY LUMBER COMPANY **** As you will be "lucky" to have a building that isn't rotting down after a few years.
Hey mate, just wondering if you would ever use a body cam angle in your building videos, cheers from Aus
Kyle, What are the measurements past the window you use above the window when you cut the metal siding? Or what is the closest you would cut to a rib?
Would it be a good idea to have the sill angled slightly in case water does get behind the window it can run off? I recently discovered we had a window frame rot out and need to replace it. Btw really enjoying the content you've been putting out recently.
Well… there you go.
Now when I want to put a window in a barn, I’m all set😆
Would the plyco windows with pre installed jtrim be suitable for this as well? If you were doing an all red iron building that’s preframed for windows, would you install those, silicone and all before installing the metal siding?
What stops the water from going between teh J trim and window flanges? Right on the most exterior point where the 'back' of the J trim hits the white exposed portion of the reveal? of the vynl window.
About the only recommendation I would have is to install a continuous wrapped sill tape. I know the good ones are expensive, but it protects the sill which is really the only issue with the install. You're probably talking 25' for most buildings. I think you can quibble about side jamb tape, but skipping the sill tape doesn't seem in line with the longevity you are targeting given that a percentage of windows themselves leak.
On some jobs you apply a sil tape that goes up the vertical framing a few inches, why not here?
@21:06 Could a flap be cut that can just direct the water straight down versus possibly back at the window?
Can you tell me the model name of the level machine you used? I would appreciate it if you could also tell me where to buy it.
This model has not yet been released in Korea.
how do you ensure the flat (no rib) lands at the side of the window frame? and what do you do if it doesn't, just based on location of window and size of r panel?
I would like to know the easiest method to install doors and windows into a building with the metal panels already installed.
Is low expansion foam necessary?? I know my company uses it but on replacement windows, not new construction
Do you do any apprenticeships for younger generations coming up? Would be nice to pass off some of this knowledge to the next gen. I know a lot of it can be filmed but hands on learning is the best.
Amen to that!
I am curious why you do not apply flashing tape to the sides first and then the top, instead of only the top. Is it because of the application of Lexel in the J-channel step so that you apply on the vinyl instead of flashing tape? Is it considered unnecessary and simply adds expense?
Also, should shims still be installed on the bottom to avoid constant strain on the nailing flange and foam insulation?
Do you have video showing how to plan for window placement or panel placement so as to avoid a rib near the window sides?
Precise planning and measuring. Find center of windows, calculate rough opening, and divide it by half. Add each half to center measurement. Starting from the same corner as your window layout originated from, calculate the width of your sheets generally 3ft. Sketch out each side of building with windows drawn and calculate your sheet breaks.
@@paradoxrotations4086 So you are saying to calculate from the window with placement of the panel where desired and calculate to the corner of the building and cut the panel at that corner so that it starts correctly. This is not just beginning at a corner with an uncut panel, right?
I have never done this before, so I am in a learning phase. Thanks for your reply.
@DDB not exactly. I build houses for a living. We always start our layout of studs, windows, and doors from the same corner. We always use the left corner of the longest straight run. From that corner, let's say I have a 2'w×4'h window a 4' from corner to center. You don't want your rough opening for your window to be exactly tight, so we add 1/2". On a 2ft wide window, you will have 1' 1/4" each side of the center. Now if you're following, from the left corner working right, the start of your window will be 4ft to center, minus 1ft 1/4" to find the edge, would be 2ft 11 3/4" from the left corner. If you have 3 ft wide tin panels, this example will have the sheet end right where your window starts, which is a no-no. To counter this, you will start your tin offset from the corner. Move it in 16" to the right and start from there. Now, backfill the tin from your start to the corner. Depending on your length of the building and placement of the windows, it may not always be possible, but do everything in your power to avoid what we call "stacking the seams". This is used for all seams. Flooring, wall paneling, siding.
@@paradoxrotations4086 Yup! Did that and it was worth it. Thanks for your reply. I only had a few inches to work with for adjustment but the 1-1/2" movement was needed.