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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Lets upgrade the Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe to 7x16
Little Machine Shop:
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Extended bed kit:
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I finished my install of my 16" bed last weekend and this video was a huge help. I didn't even bother reading the instructions after watching this once or twice, just dove in and everything is better than when it was a 10". Awesome job documenting the process and many thanks.
This video got me to buy this from LMS. Thanks for sharing. I didn’t even know this was a possibility..
Thanks for watching. Really makes this a better lathe.
I just completed my upgrade-your instructions for disassembly and reassembly were awesome, thank you so very much! 7x16 Yay!!!
Nice job on this upgrade! Not for the faint at heart, for sure. You have pointed out several weaknesses of this lathe, but you are getting the problems resolved. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Bill. Really not a hard upgrade at all. Just drill and tap eleven holes, In the correct location :-)
Ooo woooooww i never knew they sell a extension bed thanks!!!
I cut the small end of my drill MT2 taper so it fit farther in but still popped out when I turned the crank to 0, and It gave me a little more room. I have a quick change tool post like that and it is as tight as a new bride, and am really happy with it. I superglued the handle in and it has worked good.
My 2nd time watching this vid to refresh my memory as I just got serious and pulled the trigger on this for my 93799. The extra 4 inches is going to be AWESOME! Thanks again.
It is actually ten inches from a dead center in the spindle and one in the tailstock. You probably could have made it work by putting your bar between centers and secure the bar for turning with the face plate a a lathe dog.
Good job on installing the kit though. Definitely a useful upgrade.
@claytonmusgrove8438 "It is actually ten inches from a dead center in the spindle and one in the tailstock."
Exactly right. Applies to ANY lathe.
LittleMachineShop sells a 3MT headstock dead center (#1188), & a set of lathe dogs (#4464) with a drive pin that fits into a spindle flange hole. Just remove the chuck, install the center & the drive pin, & you're good to go!
Nice upgrade - a fair bit of work needed - but nothing that could really scare a guy who can rebuild a Mustang automatic transmission!
Thanks Hector. I do believe anyone that can operate hand tools and read measurements can do this upgrade. Yes there is a lot going on but pretty simple, however a transmission is a bit more involved lol.
Great job! The crickets background noise was great a real homey sound to your build, better than the background music some of these videos have!
You sir should be a machining instructor. I cannot believe how thorough you are with every aspect of rebuilding your lathe. I dont even own a lathe or endmill but stayed and watched this to the end just because of how you explained everything perfectly. This video is getting saved for future reference when i do buy my lathe from harbor freight. This is why i dont understand people who rag on me for buying things from harbor freight. With a little bit of TLC and upgrades you can make anything from harbor freight perform as good as the big name brands. Well done sir.
Thank you for your very kind words. I try and cover every step in my videos for folks can understand what is involved in the project. And getting comments like these makes it worth the effort. I have to agree with what you said about HF stuff. Not only do I own the lathe I also have their mini mill, horizontal band saw, porta band, sawz all, press, engine hoist and stand and many more tools from them. Any tool can be modified and made to work with a little effort. Keep your eyes open for the rebuild of a 100 plus year old lathe on the second channel. It is a McCabe with 9 inch chuck and over 6 feet bed. You can find the link in my newer videos under the show more tab. Thanks again for your comment.
Just to clarify lathe specifications. The three principal working parameters are swing over the bed, swing over the carriage and length center to center. The swing specs are pretty straight forward but the C to C spec needs qualification. It is generally understood the working length of the bed does not include "accessories" such as chucks and rolling centers. The actual spec refers to having dead centers inserted into the spindle and tailstock. With that in mind the advertised spec is probably correct. It is up to the buyer to determine actual working dimensions based on their use case.
You forgot the main one....it must have a big hole up the spindle.
Nice to see the inner workings-> yes very educational and now if I need minor adjustments I can do myself
Thanks, not too hard to do.
The finest lathe video I have ever seen, on this topic. Very clear video, instructions, and easy hearing and understanding talk. I give you an A+++++++++!!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for showing this modification I need to do this with mine.
Great for people with a 10" bed who don't want to sell it to buy a more expensive 16" and want to retro their existing lathe. I bought a 12" bed because it was the biggest lathe bed Harbour Freight had to get length was much cheaper that Little Machine of the same size but had to wait 2 months.
Agreed. They mostly keep them in stock, but here recently looks like they may be having an issue getting stuff from over seas.
Thanks so much for the information on your quick change tool post. I have been looking about ordering a 7"X16" lathe and a quick change tool post set. You have been great help. Good luck with your lathe modification.
Very good video! Much appreciated! It's nice to see a How-To that covers all the details in real life. I don't have a mini lathe, but do have my great grandfathers 14" swing/36" workpiece lathe. It is VERY old (1930's, but not really sure[exposed gears are high above the head], but is very accurate, he was a master gunsmith and competed on the National level and made his own barrels. He also did boiler repairs). The lathe was originally set up with leather belts and interchangeable gears for gear cutting/feed rates nad adjusting head speed. I am planning to do some modernizations on it and your video really helps shed some insight and perspective on lath construction. Thank you, I am a subscriber now.
Thanks for sharing that. Good to hear about these old relics still kicking. Those were built to last. Just have to be careful around those open belts and gears. A lot of machinery was built like that and at the time folks knew where to not stick there hands!. Welcome to the channel. I have started a second channel that will contain only garage and machining projects.
Nice upgrade Buddy to meet your shop needs. I have purchased tooling and accessories from The Little Machine Shop also, they do have a excellent business for the home machinist and customer service. I am still waiting on some materials to arrive so I can get my Electronic Lead Screw together and installed.
Thanks, yes I am looking into that also. I do believe that will be a killer upgrade for any lathe of this size. Hard to turn metric treads with an imperial lead screw lol.
I'm getting this kit with steady rest for sure
I figured you were going to connect the 2 beds together.
That would be nice but would require a lot of precision machining.
Wow! Great how to video. I plan on doing this modification to my lathe.
Thank You!
You are welcome! It really helped mine out.
With all the extra work you've already done on this lathe, maybe the Grizzly g0768 might have been a better starting point. It is advertised as an 8 x 15 lathe, has tapered bearings on the spindle, has a cam lock tailstock and comes with steady rest and follow rest and both 3 and 4 jaw chucks. Looks like maybe the same bed and ways, but for what you've already spent in parts and labor, the $1350 price looks pretty reasonable.
You are correct. If buying straight out then the Grizzly would be the way to go.
Thank you for the wonderful information you have provided for those of us you want to upgrade our lives from Harbor Freight Tool! Thank you so much for your time buddy. Your knowledge is invaluable! May you be blessed my brother. Joel
Appreciate the comment and kind words Joel. Good to see you here. Take care
Excellent instructional! looks like a pretty big job, but one I've got to tackle... I have the bed extension but have put off installing it!
This is the exact reason why I started off with buying the 9x20 :)
Agreed!
I totally agree but.... I got the 7x10 because thats all I could squeeze out of my budget!!
Without a doubt, you are quite skilled at assembly. Good luck with that tool.
Thanks John.
I'm in total awe of your mechanical skills. Amazing. Any 'tubelicious' projects in the pipeline? Always a treat too!
Thanks, but really simple project. I think the folks at Little Machine Shop was impressed also as they wanted to use this video as a guide on their website. And yes, there will be machining videos down the road I have been thinking of starting a new channel for machining. But that is a lot of work.
I just did the change over and your video was a big help. Thanks Bunches
Glad it helped!
Thank you for making this informative, detailed video. Take care
Glad it was helpful!
great job! lots of patience - great payoff!
Thank you David
Great video, nice and thorough! I could listen to your voice all day
Am I the only one that is wondering why the measurement was from the face of the chuck jaws to the face of the tailstock, rather than with the chuck removed, an MT3 centre fitted in the spindle and an MT2 center fitted in the tailstock quill as that is how it is actually measured to get the "between centers" measurement.
Agreed the "usual" working distance between the chuck and tailstock is diminished because of chuck depth (measured at the furthest projection of the jaw towards the tailstock) and tailstock live-centre depth, but that is not the "between centers" measurement, that is the "working distance" when fitted with a chuck.
Good video, Thank you for the step-by-step Process That is very helpful when it comes to other people doing the same project.
Glad it was helpful!
Buddy that was a great job. Enjoyed it and believe after watching that i can tackle that job. Thanks a lot your directions were really good. Appreciate it..
Thank You
You're lucky, it took 2 years to get mine because they kept selling out and it's first come first served, no reservations. Great video though! I got my tool post (sliding gib type) from little machine shop also. I made sure it wasn't the piston type for the very reason your talking about.
Sorry to hear that
@@TheRadioShop It is what it is. Little Machine Shops customer service has been outstanding so far though. I've purchased quite a few things there and have been very pleased when dealing with them directly over the phone. Getting the lathe bed was the only problem I've ever had with them that wasn't fixed on the spot. They have to order them from China and there was apparently a shortage so I can't fault them for that, I just wish I could've reserved a spot in line.
Great upgrade Buddy!
It seems you're a lot like me. Mechanically inclined. Work in machine shops, engines, transmissions and experience in the electronic/computers areas as well.
Loved the detailed video.
Very nice upgrade, Buddy, and your mechanical skills are amazing. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and sharing it with us. Looking forward to the next one. I bet you could work wonders with an old Quickie-500 RC racing engine. 73 de K7RMJ Frank
Thanks for the comment Frank. Once I get the four jaw chuck in I could really do some precision boring on a RC engine.
I miss the scat cat days. Excellant flying plane for cruising at 110mph.
Great video. Nice upgrade.Nice work. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks 👍
I made the same mistake with the tool post. Little machine shop has a cross slide that's been shaved so that you can run a standard AXA tool post on em. It's way better.
You are correct and I am looking at them now. Thanks
Turn your toolpost 180°and turn the tool around I. The holder so that in effect the shank is being pulled towards the work rather than pushed. That should give you the clearance that you need but you'll lose it at the chuck end of your job instead. There's no rules just ways that cause inherent precision to work for you and of course safety.
He did that in the video.
A note re the lead screw: If you have the rubber seal where the lead screw passes into the control box (you can see it at 10:30, right below the corner of the head stock), be sure to transfer it to the new lead screw *before* mounting the lead screw! He forgot to do that. Oops! 🙂
I'd also recommend using blue Loctite on the screws for the rack, lead screw bearings, change gear arm stud, motor mounting plate (to the motor), & the head stock. And lightly oil the bed & underside of the head stock so they won't rust.
Excellent! Thank you!
You are welcome!
Wonderful job thank you
Our pleasure!
Impressive work.
Take lots of pictures during disassembly. It's stupid proof for re-assembly! Great video sir.
1. Cut the thread first (or last)
2. change the tool & tool post around & cut the rest
Bada bing bada boom.
Great video, thank you for sharing.
The 7x16 mini lathes sold by Little Machine Shop and Micro Mark not only are longer, they also include a brushless DC motor that does not require a noisy gearbox. The tailstock also locks with a lever, no wrench is required.
It's best to start off with something good, instead of doing a partial fix on a piece of junk.
Well these were the first ones that hit the market back in the late 1999 era. And you were paying what was a high price back then for them. So along came these different up grades that you could do to improve your mini lathe. So bit by bit you did that and the satisfaction that you performed the task yourself and learned some things along the way. So in your case I guess you wanted to pay the big bucks for a newer lathe with all the bells and whistles without the experience and getting the experience of performing those upgrades your self and the satisfaction that you did it.
Always look for a lathe that has at least a distance between centers that is twice the swing of the lathe for the reasons shown in the video.
Awesome Job 😊
Simply outstanding Sir!💖👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍
Many thanks
Great job on this.
Thanks for listening
This upgrade is expensive but worth it if you have a small lathe, it must be a godsend now. Great rebuild to a longer working bed Buddy. Sure think your future tweaking
of the tail stock parts will make things easier. The Chineseum tool rest post is really poorly designed in every way.
Thanks for the comment. It is like having a different lathe now. Plenty of room to work around things. I am going to upgrade to a much better OXA style tool post soon.
For accuracy, the compound slide should be at 45 degree when cutting. Hundreds of videos on CZcams show everyone using the compound at 90 degree. This would solve some of the spacing issue and also improve cutting.
The problem with these tiny lathes is the carriage wheel don't have any measurements so you can't really have accurate measurements, you can use the compound knob to get better accuracy
a goodie....and so: subbed with a thump up.
VERY NICE UP GRADE
LoL by the time you are done Buddy the only thing that will be original Harbor Freight will be the Label. Well done. 73 Joe
Hmm, we may have to change that also! lol Thanks
What's that old joke about jacking the mirrors and sliding a new car underneath...? Fun. Appreciated. Thank you.
HA! you got that right. Used to tell a lot of folks that back in the day lol. Thanks much fun.
Great video,great job, good upgrade to your lathe
Thanks 👍
31:30. How about replacing that bottom portion for the carriage with a plate you can install needle bearings into so it rolls smoothly?
I have been looking into that. The biggest problem is there is not a lot of room to work with on the front side of the carriage due to the apron.
Thank you sir
Welcome
Great info.. i not even have one but want 2 buy
Great video! I'm seriously considering this upgrade to mine. I wasn't sure if the cricket was at your place or mine!
Thank you. Noisey little things
Great job
It appears to be easier and less costly less time consuming then trying to fix an existing frame issue that many on CZcams have spent many hours of hard work lapping the underside of the bedways.
It appears the upgrade is well made and very precision.
Have you checked the accuracy of the ways, top to bottom and thickness?
Thanks, there is a bit of variance in the thickness. Not to bad and can be easily scraped out. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. Lots of good information Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Was it necessary to remove all the gearing from the head stock. Couldn't you have just unbolted the head stock at that point and lifted it of Thanks i concur with the others great video Thanks
There are cap screws under that end of the lathe head stock. Really hard to get to with the change gears in the way. Also to remove the cover that contains the belt.
@@TheRadioShop yes sir saw that as the tutorial wentalong
LMS has a wedge-type QCTP. I haven't tried mine but it feels solid.
Yep, I got one from them. Much better.
@@TheRadioShop I noticed yesterday with mine, with 1/2" tools, that I can't get them low enough. Have you had a similar experience? I was going to make a solid toolpost anyway but now I have another reason.
10" is between fixed centers. Wedge style tool post is way better.
I wonder if the plastic gears are the "weak link" in case something binds up.
Well, yes and no. The gears have been known to strip out, and crack. With that said if you crash the tool post they will also act like a fuse and strip out bringing the machine to w full stop. However they do make a metal gear set for these.
Self lubricating and crumple point so I'd keep it as is
set the cross slide at 90 degrees going in and out on the apron
Anybody remember the article on how to take a second bed and modify it to mount to the original bed to make a bed extension and how to use a second leadscrew to extend the leadscrew. I bought a damaged mini lathe and pulled the bed and leadscrew to mod it but then life got busy and never got it finished. now I can't find the article anywhere. They also had a riser block mod for headstock and tailstock to turn bigger diameter items. Can't find any of the old modification articles on these mini lathes.
Too bad that longer bed was not just standard in some models. Big cost to change. I did notice you did not say anything about removing that paint on the bottom of the ways. That really needs a smooth surface for the cross slide hold down (gibb) to run on.
Bit of an expense for sure. But if you already have one then it is the way to go. Are you talking about the underside of the bed ways? There is no paint there. If that is where you are talking about if you look at 28:19 you can see the screw holes for the track reflecting back on the bottom of the ways. It has such a shiny finish like a mirror and only looks like it is painted.
@@TheRadioShop Looked at about 32 and it must be a reflection. Mine was painted and I had to clean. I used a dense felt for way wipers with 3D printed frames. I keep the felt oiled.
Still need more work on the tailstock so it is held in line better than one side. Only 20 in my garage and heater can not keep it warm enough right now.😥
@@gvet47 Ah yes, the back side does have a red tint to it. From overspray. After they cleaned it it does look painted but actually it is not. Just tinted. Man that is cold in there!
@@TheRadioShop I have a Jet 1220 wood lathe also. Had a bolt on bed extension on it. Too bad they just do not have the same. Just need room to set the tailstock out farther for room it takes for drilling. Really do not need the leadscrew or rack for saddle out there. Hum? Cut up your old bed and use it for a bolted extension with alignment pins or guides.🤔
Seeing that you took all the head off, you should have taken apart the head and greased the bearings!!
Right after this video I switched the ball bearings over to taper roller bearings.
What was done
Wedge Gib Type Quick Change Tool post holder at aliexpress for 42 euro's about 52 $ us
Any thoughts on why it is that there are only three mounting bolts for the head stock instead of four . the right rear corner of the head stock has no mounting holes. i just received my 16 inch extension from LMS and it too only has the three mounting holes for the head stock. Thanks again .for the Tutorial
what I don;t understand is why aren't all the bolt/screw holes pre-drilled at the factory, unless that bed fits different models with different bolt patterns.
That is why. There are many models of these lathes produced for different companies. Each one is a bit different.
R.S., did you use the blue lock tite to keep those screws? or is that not necessary? Also is that motor mount home made? great video!!!!
Yes, blue lok-tite on the screws. Motor mount is chinese made and stock to the lathe. thanks
and then how about 1hp motor, and create a cement foundation with four studs buried into cement
this lathe is in metric not imperial measurement, so making any modifications in imperial instead of metric is mistake
Did that new motir mount come with the new bed or did you order that as an optional upgrade Thanks😊
Sir. What is the diameter of the hole that passes through the rear of the head stock and through the center of the chuck jaws? I would want to buy steel rods and cut off only as much as needed from a finished project while the project was locked in the jaws..... rather than cut off a section and then put it in the lathe and end up wasting the material that was needed to lock a project into the jaws securely. I've always stopped short of buying one of these because I never knew if these were open all the way through and what the hole diameter was. Thank You.
The spindle bore is about 3/4 but the chuck that comes with it is 5/8
Do you think going 699 for 8x14 or 809 for 8x16? You have one and would know better than I if those two inches is worth that price difference.
I would spend the extra money for the 16 inch. The only reason I bought the shorter one is because I could get it with no shipping cost since it was store pick up. The extra few inches really make a difference.
Are them plastic gears, l hope not. The price of this lathe calls for good metal gears.
Actually the plastic gears are pretty good. For one, they are quite. Not as noisey as metal gears. Second, they will act like a "weak link" in case of a crash. Better to break a plastic gear than a shaft, coupler, or housing. So far I have yet to damage one of these gears in the lathe. And I ran it pretty hard. I have even 3D printed some bigger gears, 104 tooth, 112 tooth to slow the feed down for better surface finish. The mini mill is a different story.
Does the kit have a part number? I didnt find it on Little Machine Shop.
lmscnc.com/5000
Great, the tool post Is a piece
Of crap. Right on! Great job..
I need one of these kits bad but little machine shop is sold out
What would happen if you turned your compound rest 90 degrees clockwise?
I need new gears in the head stock also
WATCHED VIDEO BUDDY''im glad i did,,,i own one of these, and thats my complaint, same complaint to short of a throw'''now im good and ive already orderd the same kit''''thank you buddy''''KD5UTU'' JAMES.
James, let us know how it went. Thanks for watching
Hi there, nice up grade, check out Steve Jordan u tube mini lathe saddle up grade, done this myself and works superbly .lots of other good stuff also.
Thanks for the tip and comment
Hi again ,if you are changing to metal gears leave 1 gear cog plastic ( 80 tooth on lead screw ) this will give a relief point in case of a jam mishap. Be safe be well.
Máy này bác bán bao nhiêu USD vậy bác
ld rather have the clap. l watched all, its really a good deal, l only have $475 in my laithe.
@22:02 Wrong hole!
HA!
Where is this lathe made, in China?
Of course
can you make cones ?
Antonmursid🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🇲🇨