Fixing Everything Wrong With My Mini Lathe
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- čas přidán 18. 02. 2024
- El Cheapo lathe lol
Instagram: / bowen3dprinting
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After many attempts at making a 3d printed gas engine, I decided the next step was to try and develop a proper metal engine. However, before I can get to that this cheap mini lathe is going to need some work. So in this video, I will be fixing this lathe so I can finally get started. - Věda a technologie
oh how convenient i was almost about to go to bed a half hour early
Me too
Fr same
Still got 17 minutes. Not that bad of an early start to sleep.
Yep, perfect time to go to sleep two hours late
Exactly me rn
I have a mini mill and mini lathe. Whenever somebody asks me if they should buy these tools, I tell them: they're awesome, but you're not buying a tool, you're buying a project!
Yes, somebody on another channel has said that they are basically a starter kit for a lathe and mill.
But, I want ....
You get what you pay for. And after all, you're learning how to use it at the same time. No textbook can replace experience.
Besides, one of the great things about these machines is that you can make most of the replacement parts you need on them. The lathe, as a matter of fact, was probably what kickstarted the industrial revolution. Forget about the automatic loom; The manual, unpowered lathe was the first tool that, in essence, can reproduce itself.
I’ll co-sign on that. I have a mini lathe and a mini mill I converted to cnc years ago.
I just bought a mini drill press and a cross table to go with it.
Both of them had issues out of the box. But since i was setting up my new workshop i had everything at hand to fix most show stoppers.
I kinda gotten used to fix stuff that comes broken from the factory. However it is quiet the contrast to how it used to be 20 years ago.
@@LeBoomStudiosthe capabilities of a lathe are only limited by the turner
Wise words from an old machinist not being me of course
A little tip, if you look for the aluminum cutting version of the insert (generally they are chrome/silver color), they're generally much sharper than their steel cutting version. For mini lathes/mills, we need this extra sharp edge to bite into steel since we don't have the SFM capabilities of industrial machines that uses these carbide inserts. I find it gives a much nicer finish in general and doesn't wear out that much faster than the steel cutting inserts. Considering they're dirt cheap, it's worth it.
I may give that a try. For some reason I thought being for aluminium they wouldn’t stand up to steel so well.
@@sjv6598 These lathes really don't have the power for carbide, they need all the help they can get. I use the aluminium ones, they work fine. HSS inserts as well if I want a nicer finish or I'm too lazy to sharpen a HSS bit.
@@j.f.christ8421 thank you.
when you used the lathe to upgrade itself i was reminded of this book series called something like "home metalworking from scrap" where a guy builds up from digging a furnace, casting and melting bronze, to building a lathe and using it to make a milling machine. realistically they probably weren't instruments of extreme precision, but if you're really gonna go for building a metal engine you may find it worthwhile to dig up some scans. been watching since the algorithm randomly fed me that vtec video, probably gonna keep watching until im crusty. your editing just keeps improving. good luck!
Привет, я не умею говорить по-английски, так что буду на своём языке:) подскажи пожалуйста, как называется серия книг, о которой ты говоришь? Я бы очень хотел такое почитать. Спасибо.
Build Your Own Metal Working Shop From Scrap
David J. Gingery
Серия из 7 книжек, правда стоит задать себе вопрос - мне детали интереснее делать или станки.
@@VEC7ORlt спасибо! мне интересно и то и то)
@@DomWood Clickspring had a video recently on this exact topic, making a bow powered lathe with sticks and stones, what bothers me is that all this basic machining was way back when and somehow didn't take off universally, but then again bronze age ended and a lot of trade routes collapsed that led to less availability of metals that were easy to machine and slow rediscovery iron processing across europe.
Vevor should sell these as a kit already as nobody uses them without any mod, assemble once without the inconvenience of dissasembling it. And it would make their statement of "we wont make these any better, as they sell even as crappy as they come" even more true. They dont even have to assemble them anymore! Win-win
sell the castings unmachined so we can use our bigger machines to make good small machines
@@ikbendusan that only works if you have a large machine.
@@conorstewart2214 so much was implied
Hello everyone and welcome back to This Old Camden...
I just realized I haven't watched a video by This Old Tony for a while. Thanks for the reminder!
Okay. The ‘head stock on a rocking chair by the fire’ bit was pretty damned funny. I had a good laugh. Thank you.
This was the exact moment I hit subscribe.
Angle grinder to shorten the allen key is totally approved!
Wonder why the micro-lathe I got came with tapered bearings, while most others on YT are ball bearings. Anyway, replaced them with high quality SKF taper bearings.
To seat the bearing without hammering down, put them on the induction oven and heat them to 110 degree celsium. They'll beautifully slide onto the spindle.
Lapping the lockrings and spindle spacers flat will improve run-out.
As a machinist myself working on manual and CNC lathes, this was quite endearing to watch. Good job on the modifications! They certainly help.
Thank you!
I consider myself a DYI hazard. This video brought me joy as it now has equipped me with additional questionable knowledge on how to do things in a questionable way.
No, but in all seriousness, this was an awesome video. I love your humor and content.
I bought myself a 1978 Sears Craftsman Commercial belt drive lathe, model 101.28990 12" x 36" for 700$. The seller was asking 1000$ for it but talked him down in price lol. I even still use the old lantern styled tool post holder. Love that thing. And your right about the used lathe market, it is really expensive, I've seen an average from 3k - 10k for Clausing, SouthBend, and Logan lathes. Even though this is a beginner lathe, you will find that this will open a ton of doors for you to make those hard parts you can't find or just any custom part you need. Next comes the milling machine haha. Anyway, welcome to the lathe life friend!
The electrical cable being a 1/2" short is so me, and made me literally LOL.
I picked up a full size toolroom lathe for $1000... For a 70+ year old machine it still runs like a dream too.
Talk about the elephant in the room. It's the same size and weight. A cat or dog like this is much more manageable
@@erik_dk842 oh for sure, it's big, heavy and noisy 🤣. Took up a good majority of my pickup bed too
Shars Tool Company has the best goodies, imo. The cross slide always needs attention. That was my first cleaning and mod. I replaced the round 2 bolt tool post holder with a 4 bolt square piece I made from .625 plate. There was all kinds of anti rust gunk on the ways which allowed for massive deflection. Cleaned off the crud, no more deflection and a much cleaner result while turning.
Forge On!!!
I’ve been actually looking at buying this lathe for a while now! This was a fantastic video, and I’d love a part two for all your other fixes you have in mind for this machine.
A useful and simple mod I made to mine was to replace the socket-cap screws that attach the feed handles on the compound and cross feed with button head versions, these don't keep catching your fingers when turning the handles anywhere near as much.
This will be awesome! I’m super excited to see what you do with the lathe! The mini lathe I got is a grizzly g0765 mini lathe, and I am really liking it! My “3d printed engine” is not really “3d printed” any more, besides the crank case, but a lathe is such a versatile piece of equipment! Good luck with your lathe!
watching you hammering those bearing hurt me anyways nice video!
would love to see all the next upgrades, cheers
Inner races of bearings heated in oil make it way easier to fit on a close tolerance shaft. Similar outer races in chilled in dry ice help alot. You need fairly large temperature differential to take advantage of thermal expansion. If you try to pound out a bearing race from some old motorcycle wheel hubs its game over.
There was a book written by a guy in the UK that covers tunning this sort of lathe up. Should be able to find it amazon.
Drill a hole in the table so the power cable doesn't have to travel as far. C < A+B! Loving the lathe related content, keep at it!
Vevor stuff terrifies me, yet I have more than a few of their products. I also like to live dangerously.
I don't know how it took me so long to find your channel but this is the kind of content I live for as soon as you chopped that allen wrench off I knew I would like you😅
Thank you!
the way this guy approaches his projects is literally me and I find it hilarious; you got my sub dude
Glad to know I'm not the only one aha
Great project! I really appreciate the cost breakdown at the end.
Way to combine the engineering of both countries. From good enough to just good. Always interesting concepts in the videos, similar to other content but wholly unique .
Excellent video. I’m going to use your video to help me dial in my mini lathe. Thank you for making this.
I remember This Old Tony got one of these 'Minila The' and they look fun but do require the upgrades to move them into "Tool" category.
I have this same lathe but with another brand name. It has been working fairly good but requires oiling and cleanup regularly. I also bought fourjaws of two sizes for it. Those make life much easier if something needs to be turned from both ends.
I really loved the editing on this one, had me laughing a fair bit!
Great walkthrough!
I scraped the ways on my cross slide and carriage, it make the preload on the gibs more consistent and make the cutter more ridged for sure, but it just takes a long time to do.
My cheapo Chinese lathe arrives tomorrow. I already have the new bearings on order. That seems to be the first thing everyone does. While I'm waiting for the bearings to arrive, I guess I'll try to get the head stock and tail stock to sit on the bed squarely which is another typical problem with these. As questionable as the quality is, it's going to be a lot easier to work with than the tiny Unimat DB-200 I'm using now.
I did a group-buy when I got my Lathe and I paid 1/4 of you. My machine also came directly from Sieg and was very well finished.
I needed to do some tuning of the ways etc but it performs quite well. I did do the same toolpost upgrade though as the exchangeable holders and adjustable heights are so convenient!
How many people did you do the group buy with? And which model Sieg lathe did you buy?
@@pieterveenders9793I think we ended up 13 or 14 lathes, and one mini-mill.
The lathes were Sieg C3 (7x14" lathes). It was however MANY years ago so price is probably relatively good although quality has maybe declined? For my market the machines were red btw.
Good video! I have a 9x30 and a RF-30 mill, and they are work in progress as well. I am not sure if it ever ends, but it is fun upgrading! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Congratulations on your new lathe!
The headstock on a rocking chair was master class 🤣
One thing I saw for a workshop upgrade was replace a workbench top with a type of holes surface to bolt things to.
Another really important addition to the workshop would be an old popular mechanics design for a drill press using one of those 30-60 dollar hydrolic jacks, scrap metal, and a welder; it works like that cheap harbor freight press while also being homemade :D. My father had to buy a press for installing bearings on his transmission shaft, as he was damaging the bearings trying to hammer them.
Didnt know about quenching metal in vegtable oil, and will definitely use that technique in the future.
Loved the video :D
Thanks! I really need to get a real press one day aha, as for the oil, used motor oil also works very well because of the high carbon content of it
@@CamdenBowen good to know. The oil tip reminded me of some of the stuff in popular mechanics encyclopedias, like improving vice grip strength by putting a shingle in the middle of the grip and the thing your holding, which is why I think its super cool :D
Delicious editing you did here! ❤
Looks pretty good! 😁 I've never used one of these mini-tools; but I've restored a few second hand lathes (Colchester Student & Master types) and getting an 'ok' 2nd hand one into fully running state is probably more cost AND more time.
Great video… nice upgrades!
You're a great patriot and people should tell you that every day
Thank you for the vid, and the humor. I am a retired tool and die maker from the drawing board and hand cranking days. I'm looking at a small lathe for my small home shop.
P.S. Carbide loves rpm, and also not a following approach angle unless you are just finishing with a bevel.
Thanks! I've heard HSS works best for these machines, I just need to improve my grinds first aha
@@CamdenBowen That in itself is an art. Cheers.
Yes leveling is important, you can induce a torsional twist in the lathe that causes your cuts to be tapered. Also would be interesting to fit it for CNC work
I loved my little 7x lathe. Best upgrades I did were upgrading to a sewing machine motor (1HP) and put on an electronic lead screw.
Artisan makes CZcams channel has everything you could possibly learn about this damn lathe
For the next upgrade look for a solid toolpost conversion. It gets rid of the shitty compound slide (the thing on the top that you rotate to cut at different angles) and allows you to bolt your toolholder directly to the crosslide. The compound is a major source of chatter so this really helps, and if you need to cut an angle you can always just put the compound back on
Bruh a chipmunk is gonna get dragged in to that💀
I will watch anything this man puts out.
removing the compound and using a solid block in its place is a good improvement for rigidity.
Remaking the clamping for the saddle is a good idea, i have two brass pieces shimmed to the right clamping pressure.
I was thinking of getting a solid riser block, I don't cut many tapers anyways
i got the same one!, it worked way better after a little work. ive done things you shouldnt on it.
you needed to put electricity over on that other table anyway! :) might pick up an arbor press at hf they arent too bad ,even the full 12 ton press is under 300 with an add on air over hydraulic jack on it. cool upgrades i picked up an OLD Montgomery Ward 04TLC-700A Logan lathe at auction ! it too needs lots of work (just starting on it ) and it takes up about 3 times the room as yours not counting the stand got a qc tool holder for it but not on yet , side tracked by plumbing issues at home LOL . good work and have FUN with it!!!!!
I think the tool height is part of your problem. The tip of the tool should be exactly in the moddle of the centerline of your lathe
We need to see how it looks when it's upgraded, WE NEED IT!!!
It's normal for carbide inserts to have a spacer between the and the toolholder. It's a piece of soft shim stock so that the set screw doesn't crack the carbide and can comply down for a stronger fit!
Mario 64 teleport SFX used very well. 10/10, watched that bit again.
I am definetly exited for the engine with parts from the lathe
“I did the only rational thing….” Same moment I thought he’s gonna chop a tool down. That sir is comedy!
I'm so happy you got a lathe.
Happy snow time. Try to make a multi speed snow cleaner with a compressed air engine (either a piston design,Vankel, that new spinning thing or a turbine.
i recommend you to install the late closer to the edge clear the handles from the table and its much more comfortable to work with
Cool stuff, there are plenty of guides others have made for improving a minilathe too!
I enjoyed this content, not exhausting at all!
No clue why you don’t have more subscribers. You made my day!!
Thank you so much!
Nice. I have an ancient Harbor Freight three in one, that is minimally functional. I actually am going to start making some parts on it next month, so quite the timely video.
Just went on Facebook marketplace and found a Graziano Sag14 Lathe for $3k and it's in good working condition for reference it's about 4x the size of yours😂😂 not meant to be an insult or anything I just find it funny I found a lathe 4x bigger with a 2x price comparatively
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice lathe
note to everybody .. never, ever do that with two fingers in a bearing .. when the bearing seizes take a moment and think what that does to your jammed-in fingers
Good job
!
Cool lathe! I just got exactly the same one. But mine has a small lever behind with Right/Stop/Left feed selection. Putting it into Stop kinda holds the carriage.
I used to be a machinist. All inserts should be identical such as with your CCMT to conform with standards. However the screw holes in them can be made differently.
I was told change the insert screw for the same make as the inserts and it should fix the issue of it not sitting in the holder.
Many miles to go before you have fixed "everything" wrong with your mini-lathe but that's a pretty good start.
I love the way you make your videos, the tf2 sound effects definitely were a nice addition for me.
Thank you!
That wooden surface is going to vibrate nicely underneath the lathe because wood has some flex. Buy a 1 to 2 inch thick slab of something heavy to go between the lathe and the table surface, and the extra mass will nicely damp vibrations.
Repurposing a 2.5 inch thick granite tombstone gets the job of "immovable object" done nicely.
@@DH-xw6jpSink cutouts from countertops are a solid (literally) option and can be had for between free and a 6 pack of beer
Angular contact bearings are the way to go for these lathes and they are the same thickness as the roller bearings and work in the same way as tapered bearings do.
Love these videos.
Inserts have different relief angles. If the holder is for CC inserts and you try fitting a CN insert then you'll get that issue.
Don't worry so much about the bashlash on the crossfeed. You will always have some backlash and if you're not attacking brass with deep cuts you'll be fine. People get too obcessed with trying to eliminate things that don't matter.
Also, try setting the float on the bearings with the spindle warm. I've seen a newly overhauled machine have it's spindle lock up because the end float was set cold. It was too tight so as the bearings warmed up they put a large amount of preload on the bearings, enough to stop the spindle.
Good work 🤙
Awesome man. New subscriber ✌🏻
I like the way how you solve problems
This Old Tony did an extenstive upgrade on his where he replaced the plastic gears and that made a huge difference.
for 60$ or so you can order a set of metal replacements, but for my case since I'm not cutting threads very often (if at all) I'll just rock the plastic gears until one of them strips a tooth or something
Love it, inspirational.
top tip, carbide inserts are not in fact sharp. they need to be taking large cuts to effectively cut chips and leave a good surface finish, if you are going to use this lathe you'll need HSS tooling aka high speed steel.
frankly you should already know this since literally every other person with a mini lathe will tell you that without you even asking. carbide is great, but it's also a unique challenge.
I wish I had somewhere to put a mini lathe 😫
I would turn that thing into a BEAST! 🤩
Angular contact bearings would be perfect
If I ever dig into the headstock again I'll probably consider those bearings
Next time you have to install bearings like that, just go to a welding supply store and get some liquid nitrogen. Its really cheap and theyll usually rent you a container to get the LN2 to your shop. Putting the shaft outside in "the cold" does nothing, if you can survive in the temperature then it will not cause metal to expand or contract by an amount to matter.
If I told you everything that was wrong with my brand new Vevor mini lathe when it finally arrived at my place, it would make you cry.
When I finally got all the needed replacement parts installed to replace all the damaged parts it came with, it ran awesome for about five minutes, then one of the little brass studs on which the smaller 20-teeth gear rotates just sheared right off causing that gear to go rattling around inside the gear cover.
I got it running well enough to be able to turn some new little studs out of tools steel. I re-configured them so as to be able to mount that little 20-teeth gear and the 25-teeth gear right next to it using bearings instead of the metal-to-metal fit they had before.
If I had it to do all over again, I would never buy a Vevor mini lathe again. I'd just save up a bit longer and get something built with alot more quality control in its' manufacture.
The only reason I kept it was because I got a massive discount on the price and all the replacement parts were free. I just had to install them myself.
I've heard buying these are a bit of a shot in the dark, I got pretty lucky with mine
@@CamdenBowenIt's great opportunity, and on brand for this channel, to 3d print a bunch of improvements for the mini lathe, in order to imrprove your 3d prints. Something Artisan Makes strays away sadly but understandably. I really look forward to the next videos!
Our boy lookin good as hell
This video proved to me that shims can be useful.
Maybe you can drill grease holes to/and thru the bearing races in the head stock then outfit them with fittings? Bet it'd work.
Your problem with the inserts has to do with the clearance angle underneath the cutting edge. Most common clearance angles are 7 and 11 degrees. Basically a tool holder with a 7 degree clearance will hold both 7 and 11 degree inserts while an 11 degree holder will only hold an 11 degree insert. The 7 holder/ insert has a steeper angle while the 11 is sharper. The 11 insert will fit the 7 holder but it won't be fully engaged with the shoulders.
Pro tip: hot/cold bearing installation method works significantly better, if you hold the bearing stationary, and drop the shaft into it, from the top. Yes, this doesn't seem to make much sense when you think about it, but it makes all the difference in practice, like night and day difference.
A bearing is to small to position it perfectly perpendicular to the shaft, it always goes on crooked and jams, and the heat instantly starts to equalize at the point of contact, the bearing instantly shrinks the shaft expands, while the bearing is still crooked, and when you try to fix it, the heat is already uneven and it's too late, plus you are very likely to make it even more crooked by "helping" it go down.
But
If you hold the bearing stationary, I usually open my vise, and put the bearing on top of the jaws (not in the jaws, on top) and secure it with couple of small magnets, and you drop the shaft through, and I literally mean drop it, the shaft will somewhat "self center" while falling down, and even if it gets stuck, a good whack with a rubber mallet will push it forward easily, because it won't be stuck crooked, it will be semi-stuck but straight.
Also, lubrication seems to have widely inconsistent impact, sometimes it helps, but sometimes, it acts as a thermal bridge, equalizing the temperature way too fast. I found that only silicone based lubricants seems to be working, any other oils or lubricants have way to high thermal conductivity. Alternatively, if you don't have a silicone lubricant, just don't use any, it counterintuitively works better without it (no thermal bridge), or, only lubricate the actual part of the shaft the bearing is supposed to sit on (not the bearing, only the shaft), so nothing gets lubricated along the way until the bearing reaches its designated spot.
I've been doing bearing replacements on my two stroke crankshaft this way, and it almost always goes perfectly straight in one go, without even having to use mallet, just gravity, and in the rare case it doesn't, a whack with a fist is sufficient, in fact, using a fist is much much faster than using a mallet, because toyr brain doesn't have to think about aiming, and you save precious seconds while both parts are still at different temperature.
Also, the bearing, provided it's not a sealed bearing and it has no lubricant at the time of installation, should be quite hot, I usually check by flicking some water droplets on it with my fingers, if the water instantly evaporates it's the right temp, but if the water sizzles, it's a bit too high.
I bought this exact vevor lathe off-amazon for $500
Mine came with metal gears and fairly precise out the box
I had to file and shim here and there but after 3years its still a great mini machine
Good to know it'll run for 3 years aha, I was a bit worried when I read some horror stories from other people saying after ~20 lathe hours the speed controller gets smoked, though it seems parts are easy to find
run angular contact bearings instead, theyre directly interchangeable with the stock bearing... replace the 6 with a 7... ie, 6202 is a 7202...
taper rollers dont deal with speed, and are pretty noisy...
Oh I wasn't expecting to see another minilathe
Your guide to carbide tooling: run it as fast as you can and push it as hard as you can. That mini lathe is incapable of the proper feeds and speeds for carbide, so just run it full tilt and USE A LOT OF COOLANT. Running dry kills carbide quite readily.
We gotta get you some feeds and speeds my man
It's often a good idea for cheap imports like this to tear them down and clean them anyways. one of the ways they keep the prices low are in assembly and fitment; there's grinding dust, casting sand, etc left behind that ruin the tolerances and will mar up the machines surfaces so you will want to clean them and get rid of any burrs. same goes for any tooling you get for it
Welcome to the club my dude. I have the same lathe- few points.
The tailstock is a disaster.
The motor isn't that bad as long as you don't try 50 thousandths cuts in 4140.
Keep the gibs adjusted.
When you have the money, buy a better one.
The whiplash I feel coming from (recently) mostly inheritance machining is... It
It's something.
Nah but fr, you're where i see myself in a while. Mr IM is where i see myself on a dream
Bro love your videos