Upgrade procraft vmm800 Elimination of backlash of small longitudinal feed Installation of thrust bearings Metal Lathe alii.pub/6jgrcc MGEHR1010 alii.pub/6jgrcq MGGN150 alii.pub/6jgrd4
Turning the compound radially vs the stock, at 10:23, re-distributing the tool's side torque over the whole length of the gib, is a clever idea; Great video.
Před 3 lety+2
great job, my sledge is also loose, the idea with the screw density is just brilliant.
If your having trouble with your parting tool it's likely because your feed rate is much to slow, like what your seeing in this video. Make sure the carriage is locked in the "x" direction and your Gibs are adjusted properly. You'll get a feel for it with experience, try 3-4 times faster than what's shown here to start. Don't peck at it either, keep a constant feed rate going. Everytime you back out and go back in your increasing the chances of breaking the tip or ruining an insert. Your success rate will improve exponentially!
There isn't really enough power to use carbide on these small lathes, you cannot feed them hard enough as the lathe bogs down. And Carbide is really blunt compared to HSS, you need high feed rates and a rigid setup to make them cut. Also note that he's got the compound rotated 90 degrees and using that to feed the tool, which makes it even less rigid compared to doing it the normal way with the cross slide.
hbert06 Not that , it needs an outkick! I don‘t know who told youtubers that they are DJs and have to have royalty-free 5 tone jingles blare in the foreground for 13:59. I usually just stop the video and go someplace else!
The problem with backlash on the compound slide z-axis is that there is no thrust bearing on one side.The first bearing just barely clamps on the face of the slide, and this does work but is flexible. The second bearing is doing most of the work but it's not designed for that, being the indicator dial. I added a plate at the end of the slide, before the clamping ring that is inset for the shaft and this fixes the backlash. But an improvement would be to add thrust bearing as you did - there would be zero backlash and ultra smooth action. Leave the dial indicator alone.
Very good work, but you know that by buying this material and at this price you're only getting a rough draft of a machine that you'll have to finish. The only thing to check is that the materials used are noble and not made of unsuitable material.
The newer version (blue) of the Shahe DRO is better than the DRO you show (I have both)(on my mill). I took the back off and used a mains 3vdc power supply for continual on with no sleep. I need to do some of these things to my G4000 9x19 lathe. Good vid.
This is way off topic and probably not something anyone watching this would know but, this beat is from a really old rap song called Burbons and Lacs from Master P.. 1997
Hello sir, Congratulations for your very informative video accompanied by solutions to the problems encountered. I do not have the same tour but I will get inspired by your method. A question: in 2'45 you install a rule of measurement of displacements; would you please have a link and the model. Thank you in advance and good luck. P.K. (French)
Nice upgrade vid, I see you using the compound to travel in when you use the parting tool, Is that because if you had the compound as normal on it's side that you get movement and so moves the cutter of centre resulting in bad cut. FIX, install a locking off hex bolt in between the grub screws and inline to push the gib bar tight, Can you share where you got the digital Dro bar and readout from And also information of what size and type of thrust bearings you used. :)
Awesome video! I'm upgrading my mini lathe (Busy Bee B-244) motor to a stepper motor from my friend (the stock motor from 1986 finally died), should be a monster! Maximum will be approx 2000rpm (chuck) with about 6nm pull-out torque at that speed (much much more torque at speeds less than that). It's a beast. He said it can run on 120v at lower power and while running it draws next to nothing but when you put it under load the controller always trying to keep it at the same speed, so for short durations it can pull up to 2000 watts to try and keep it there (you can tell the controller the maximum you want it to pull).
At that torque you will definitely need the metal headstock gears. Even the standard motor can strip the teeth of the plastic gears! Fortunately the later models already incorporate them as standard. I've heard that it may indicate that the main headstock bearings are taper roller bearings.
@@amanofmanyparts9120 The motor goes right to the chuck drive shaft with a toothed belt, so no gears to strip there. As soon as I set up my electronic screw drive then there will be ZERO gears in the entire lathe! Can't wait, I'll be a threading master! :)
@@toysareforboys1 Other owners have found that the slightest of excess play in the drive belt and the teeth start to wear. Similarly, too much drag from the cutting tool can put too much torque on the teeth and snap them off one at a time. This is from practice, not theory.
@@amanofmanyparts9120 Belts are cheap and I have spares, we'll see how they wear. They are SUPER tight and no springs on the idler pulley so no room for play when under tension. I have very good belt wraps around both pulleys so I hope to never snap a tooth off the belt as the torque should be applied to many many teeth at the same time (20 tooth pulley on the chuck shaft, 40 tooth on the motor). I already threw a big big cut at it, got an over current warning on the stepper driver (20 amps, was only running it on 120v at the time) but other than that cut nice, didn't miss any steps or skip any teeth :) I've got it connected to 240v now so it can do big big power (depending on motor and driver temperature) so shouldn't run into the over current warning anymore, would probably break my tool/tool holder before I would get there.
good job, but make a handle a piss the plastic one off, lathes are all about rigidity. I have had my Metal master al50 for 14 years a few mods and a lot of work still cuts great and true cheers.
excellent, is there any solution, or upgrade for this lathe, to be able to put the angle in the advance without having to do the whole system backwards to show the two screws? that would be very good
I am thinking to build a riser block under my headstock to be able to fit much beefier cross slide and tool post on my Holzmann ED750 lathe. I hate how small cut i can take and parting is quite scary operation on that thing. I think the problem is on most of those mini lathes is indeed how week everything is around the toolpost...
Very nice work, but, looking at how much work you had to put in, I find it hard to believe that they are allowed to sell shit like this "lathe". You basically rebuilt it.
@@HS-hz4fx the point is if you're going to be doing a mod like this then you might need a different sized bearing, it's so much easier to just measure it yourself then look for it in eBay or another store rather than copying someone else's model and quite often getting the wrong bearing. If you plan on using a lathe anyways you should at least have the knowledge to pick out the necessary parts yourself otherwise you have no business around a machine like this anyways. I'm not saying you need to know it right off the bat, but at least learn those basic machinist skills before you start modifying and likely ruining your equipment from a lack of experience.
The biggest disadvantage in my view, about these Chinese mini lathes is the total absence of TEE slots on the cross slide making it impossible to mount items on the cross slide for machining.
I used a very similar setup for my z axis scale. For some reason though, once I turn on the spindle the scale just starts counting up. I think there may be some shielding issues with the electronics lol.
@@ximcinema4083 I never really followed up on it after turning my mini lathe into a polishing/de-burring machine. The best I could figure out is there's some kind of shielding issue with the lathe's wiring. I think there are some forum posts related to this problem, but the electrical stuff goes over my head. Not much of an electrical wiz to be honest.
Such a pity that not ONE WORD was spoken to explain what you were doing and why you were doing it. I never worked out what all that Parting Tool stuff from 9:15 onwards was supposed to be demonstrating. You ground the shit out of the holder with a Dremel at 9:59, meaning it would never tighten down properly. Then you waste over 4 minutes of viewer's time watching you do some random parting for no reason?
It's quite obvious, if you don't understand what's going on, it's not for you. If you have a mini-lathe and are looking for upgrade ideas, and can't figure out what he's doing, you probably aren't yet at the level where you need anything more than a stock mini lathe. .
@@mikemarler8224 agreed, people on mechanics videos complaining that they can't figure out basic mechanical systems without a full manual with color pictures probably should find another field of study.
![MINI LATHE TRANSFORMATION! DC motor to an AC motor 🔧 [Optimum D180x300]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/u5_XmAoCYrU/mqdefault.jpg)
Turning the compound radially vs the stock, at 10:23, re-distributing the tool's side torque over the whole length of the gib, is a clever idea; Great video.
great job, my sledge is also loose, the idea with the screw density is just brilliant.
Much respect. The last couple of videos are truly inspiring, you're showing that real work can be done with very modest tools. Brilliant
ha!, just bought a HF mini laith, this is now my #1 go to channel, please keep em coming for newbies. Im lucky to have some machinist friends to help.
Nice job on the lathe. Also good to see someone using a decent parting tool!
If your having trouble with your parting tool it's likely because your feed rate is much to slow, like what your seeing in this video. Make sure the carriage is locked in the "x" direction and your Gibs are adjusted properly. You'll get a feel for it with experience, try 3-4 times faster than what's shown here to start. Don't peck at it either, keep a constant feed rate going. Everytime you back out and go back in your increasing the chances of breaking the tip or ruining an insert. Your success rate will improve exponentially!
There isn't really enough power to use carbide on these small lathes, you cannot feed them hard enough as the lathe bogs down. And Carbide is really blunt compared to HSS, you need high feed rates and a rigid setup to make them cut.
Also note that he's got the compound rotated 90 degrees and using that to feed the tool, which makes it even less rigid compared to doing it the normal way with the cross slide.
You also would benefit from a quick change tool post so you can have several tools already set up on center. I'm an ex tool and die maker, retired.
I just had to turn the volume down to zero....that insane background music without a real tune will drive me crazy.
Music needs an "apgrade"! 🤣
hbert06
Not that , it needs an outkick! I don‘t know who told youtubers that they are DJs and have to have royalty-free 5 tone jingles blare in the foreground for 13:59. I usually just stop the video and go someplace else!
The problem with backlash on the compound slide z-axis is that there is no thrust bearing on one side.The first bearing just barely clamps on the face of the slide, and this does work but is flexible. The second bearing is doing most of the work but it's not designed for that, being the indicator dial. I added a plate at the end of the slide, before the clamping ring that is inset for the shaft and this fixes the backlash. But an improvement would be to add thrust bearing as you did - there would be zero backlash and ultra smooth action. Leave the dial indicator alone.
If your thrust bearing pockets are not the perfect depth you really gain nothing then on backlash do you?
Very good work, but you know that by buying this material and at this price you're only getting a rough draft of a machine that you'll have to finish. The only thing to check is that the materials used are noble and not made of unsuitable material.
The newer version (blue) of the Shahe DRO is better than the DRO you show (I have both)(on my mill). I took the back off and used a mains 3vdc power supply for continual on with no sleep. I need to do some of these things to my G4000 9x19 lathe. Good vid.
This is way off topic and probably not something anyone watching this would know but, this beat is from a really old rap song called Burbons and Lacs from Master P.. 1997
Hello sir,
Congratulations for your very informative video accompanied by solutions to the problems encountered. I do not have the same tour but I will get inspired by your method.
A question: in 2'45 you install a rule of measurement of displacements; would you please have a link and the model.
Thank you in advance and good luck.
P.K. (French)
Nice upgrade vid,
I see you using the compound to travel in when you use the parting tool, Is that because if you had the compound as normal on it's side that you get movement and so moves the cutter of centre resulting in bad cut.
FIX,
install a locking off hex bolt in between the grub screws and inline to push the gib bar tight,
Can you share where you got the digital Dro bar and readout from
And also information of what size and type of thrust bearings you used. :)
Awesome video! I'm upgrading my mini lathe (Busy Bee B-244) motor to a stepper motor from my friend (the stock motor from 1986 finally died), should be a monster! Maximum will be approx 2000rpm (chuck) with about 6nm pull-out torque at that speed (much much more torque at speeds less than that). It's a beast. He said it can run on 120v at lower power and while running it draws next to nothing but when you put it under load the controller always trying to keep it at the same speed, so for short durations it can pull up to 2000 watts to try and keep it there (you can tell the controller the maximum you want it to pull).
At that torque you will definitely need the metal headstock gears. Even the standard motor can strip the teeth of the plastic gears! Fortunately the later models already incorporate them as standard. I've heard that it may indicate that the main headstock bearings are taper roller bearings.
@@amanofmanyparts9120 The motor goes right to the chuck drive shaft with a toothed belt, so no gears to strip there. As soon as I set up my electronic screw drive then there will be ZERO gears in the entire lathe! Can't wait, I'll be a threading master! :)
@@toysareforboys1 Other owners have found that the slightest of excess play in the drive belt and the teeth start to wear.
Similarly, too much drag from the cutting tool can put too much torque on the teeth and snap them off one at a time.
This is from practice, not theory.
@@amanofmanyparts9120 Belts are cheap and I have spares, we'll see how they wear. They are SUPER tight and no springs on the idler pulley so no room for play when under tension. I have very good belt wraps around both pulleys so I hope to never snap a tooth off the belt as the torque should be applied to many many teeth at the same time (20 tooth pulley on the chuck shaft, 40 tooth on the motor). I already threw a big big cut at it, got an over current warning on the stepper driver (20 amps, was only running it on 120v at the time) but other than that cut nice, didn't miss any steps or skip any teeth :) I've got it connected to 240v now so it can do big big power (depending on motor and driver temperature) so shouldn't run into the over current warning anymore, would probably break my tool/tool holder before I would get there.
@@toysareforboys1 Whatever. I'm just passing other's experiences, not just opinions.
New here nice to see some machining, hoping to learn here.
Lance & Patrick.
Hello friend. What's the code of axial bearing that you used on leadscreew ? Excellent job, congratulations!!
一
Great job!!! What is the specification of the bearing?
Thanks
Very good job, and nice video work sir !
Станок работает над собой с помощью человека.....
Спасибо Вам,заботливые люди!
good job, but make a handle a piss the plastic one off, lathes are all about rigidity. I have had my Metal master al50 for 14 years a few mods and a lot of work still cuts great and true cheers.
Nice video. In Mark 10:24 saw the parting tool feed by compound slide is a bit unusual. Most of us feed from the carriage. Can you explain that ?
Clueless, that's all.
Nice upgrades, just subbed
Cheers
Maybe it's the camera angle but that cutoff looked way above center.
Strange to see al the Chinese mini lathes have the same build even the more.
Expensive ones.
Hello good morning . Is it possible to place a meter but on the cross carriage?
excellent, is there any solution, or upgrade for this lathe, to be able to put the angle in the advance without having to do the whole system backwards to show the two screws? that would be very good
I recently came up with a solution to this problem, if everything works out, I hope to show it soon in the next video
@@hammerland4028 Wonderful, I'm excited for this, waiting here, 🤩
@@KustomKayak I recommend this option czcams.com/video/rdkoTN094bA/video.html
I am thinking to build a riser block under my headstock to be able to fit much beefier cross slide and tool post on my Holzmann ED750 lathe. I hate how small cut i can take and parting is quite scary operation on that thing. I think the problem is on most of those mini lathes is indeed how week everything is around the toolpost...
Just raising the headstock up by 2-5 cm would give alot of better rigidity in the compound...
Did you make that sweet little tapping handle? do you have a tutorial and or drawing you would be willing to share?
Where did you buy the digital readout from?
Acest dispozitiv pentru filetat rezolva perpendicularitatea filetului față de acsa găurilor care urmează să se asambleze evită ruperea tarodului
Safety nightmare, you don't hand hold metal parts when you are drilling them and you don't hand hold both the part and the grinder when grinding.
cut be possile have a picture of the label of the gear guide. Thanks in advance.
what size bearings did you use?
This bench top lathe can perform thread cutting operation?
How to upgrade mini lathe.
Step 1: buy bigger lathe
I don't understand why the fixed side of the dial needs bearings
oh, I saw it just now, it does help
Very nice work, but, looking at how much work you had to put in, I find it hard to believe that they are allowed to sell shit like this "lathe". You basically rebuilt it.
Sweet song ten mins In
nice , what is the trust bearin model , can you leave me the part number or maybe a link that I can order it
The thrust bearing model is "whatever fits my lathe", you can find them on eBay.
@@lazyh-online4839 😅 bonehead!!!
@@HS-hz4fx the point is if you're going to be doing a mod like this then you might need a different sized bearing, it's so much easier to just measure it yourself then look for it in eBay or another store rather than copying someone else's model and quite often getting the wrong bearing. If you plan on using a lathe anyways you should at least have the knowledge to pick out the necessary parts yourself otherwise you have no business around a machine like this anyways. I'm not saying you need to know it right off the bat, but at least learn those basic machinist skills before you start modifying and likely ruining your equipment from a lack of experience.
The biggest disadvantage in my view, about these Chinese mini lathes is the total absence of TEE slots on the cross slide making it impossible to mount items on the cross slide for machining.
I used a very similar setup for my z axis scale. For some reason though, once I turn on the spindle the scale just starts counting up. I think there may be some shielding issues with the electronics lol.
GeneralChangOfDanang what was your issue ? I have to the same problem.
@@ximcinema4083 I never really followed up on it after turning my mini lathe into a polishing/de-burring machine. The best I could figure out is there's some kind of shielding issue with the lathe's wiring. I think there are some forum posts related to this problem, but the electrical stuff goes over my head. Not much of an electrical wiz to be honest.
فكرة مشروع نظام ممتاز جيد
pls. DRO shoping link
no explanation of what you're doing
hes dooing an APGRADE ;)
It's pretty obvious. If you don't get it, it's probably of no use to.you
hey dude change the title to upgrade not apgrade
Nos do canal ferreira motos estamos acompanhando tudo. Forte abraço de nos do canal ferreira motos.👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cómo cuánto vale el torno?
Do you have link for cutoff holder with short overhang plus link for insert. Very nice parting off
Where did you get that digital readout?
www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Digitalanzeige-150-1000mm-Linearskala-Einbaumesschieber-Anbaumesschieber/192966150001
14 minutes on why not to buy some cheap ass foreign lathe. All somewhat repaired, and you still have a piece of shit
Do you have a link to the thrust bearing you used? Thanks.
ali.pub/3nqvtm
@@hammerland4028 I've measured the shaft at 11mm, so I assume that you polished it down by 1mm in the lathe with emery cloth.
Upgrade...
Ссылку на линейку скинь.
선반 살수 있는지요?
To je teda hrozný, to by vyrostl kedlub než něco obrobíš🤣
سلام خويا الله الله يرضى عليك اعمل اشهار لقانتي قوللهم صاحبي هذا و يحب يكبر قناته
Відрізання то канешно біда цього станочка
Such a pity that not ONE WORD was spoken to explain what you were doing and why you were doing it.
I never worked out what all that Parting Tool stuff from 9:15 onwards was supposed to be demonstrating.
You ground the shit out of the holder with a Dremel at 9:59, meaning it would never tighten down properly. Then you waste over 4 minutes of viewer's time watching you do some random parting for no reason?
Зачем тебе второй канал?
Пусть будет)
У тебя два канала, и один для русской аудитории?
Да
That’s 14 minutes of my life I will never get back. I have no idea what he was doing. No explanation and he can’t spell. The word is “ upgrade”.
You're the one that chose to give up those 14 minutes.
It's quite obvious, if you don't understand what's going on, it's not for you. If you have a mini-lathe and are looking for upgrade ideas, and can't figure out what he's doing, you probably aren't yet at the level where you need anything more than a stock mini lathe. .
@@mikemarler8224 agreed, people on mechanics videos complaining that they can't figure out basic mechanical systems without a full manual with color pictures probably should find another field of study.
не хороший станок
بي الله اعمل اشهار للقناة ماطتاعي
انا نتبع فيك برشا
Какие же корявые эти станки
Hahahahahahhahahaha
воришка
Это его второй канал
Я тоже где-то уже это видел 😎
Hammerland is either a deaf mute or just plain antisocial..... doesnt narrate the video, doesnt answer comment questions... what a bummer.
Sorry I didn't see the question