Skyco Ospho Review and How to Neutralize Before Coating

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  • čas přidán 23. 03. 2024
  • Review of my experience with Skyco Ospho, an acid-based rust converter. Also how to neutralize the dried Ospho, as you cannot safely use automotive fillers, primers or paint over it without removing the residue first. And yes, I see I typo'd "hold' and spelled it "hole" in one of the captions. Can't believe I didn't notice that.
    #bodywork #squarebodychevy #oldcars
    How to neutralize Ospho: (from the SPI website)
    "Apply Ospho as needed and leave it on as long as you like.
    When you are ready to neutralize the dry Ospho, apply one more coat of Ospho over the area to
    be neutralized and let it set for 5 minutes.
    Using a clean towel and water, wash off the wet Ospho like you are washing a car then dry with
    a clean towel.
    A dry acid film cannot be neutralized or sanded off."
  • Auta a dopravní prostředky

Komentáře • 22

  • @SealofPerfection
    @SealofPerfection  Před 2 měsíci +2

    FYI for everyone: Ospho does have a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) out that clarifies, here's the quote:
    "OSPHO is recommended for use under oil based primers or paints. Test trial samples before using Epoxy or other paint systems"
    The description I've given in the video is what SPI (Southern Polyurethanes) says to do before using their automotive products over Ospho. Check with your specific paint manufacturer. Some might be okay. Others, such as SPI, explicitly state do NOT use it over Ospho.

  • @francisfingerlin4280
    @francisfingerlin4280 Před 3 měsíci

    This is information I have been searching for! I just bought Ospho to fix all of the rust on my son's Hyundai Genesis Coupe, but I wasn't sure if I should paint over it after the 24 hours of treatment or not. Now I feel confident about what I need to do to get all of this rust correction finished correctly. By the way, what does it mean when the Ospho turns bare metal into shades of blue? I used Ospho on brand new brake rotors to remove some pitted rust specs showing up after they were sitting around for a while. I didn't treat the rotors for 24 hours. Instead I poured some Ospho on a green scotch brite pad and rubbed the rotors down to remove those specs. After about an hour I cleaned off the rotors with water and a towel. Next thing I know, they are turning bluish grey. It looks kind of cool, but sometimes looking cool isn't really cool especially when it comes to brake rotors.

    • @SealofPerfection
      @SealofPerfection  Před 3 měsíci +1

      It's probably about the same thing as you saw in my video, where my truck turned basically charcoal gray. It means there was just enough rust on there to cause a reaction. If it's for brakes the pads will wear it right off.
      This is a good product, it's just not a cure-all for heavy rust. You get most of it off and then it can definitely take care of the rest

    • @francisfingerlin4280
      @francisfingerlin4280 Před 3 měsíci

      Thanks for the super fast response!@@SealofPerfection

  • @skier10394
    @skier10394 Před 3 měsíci +1

    Instead of licking the metal, you can use PH test strips to check for residual ospho.

    • @SealofPerfection
      @SealofPerfection  Před 3 měsíci +1

      Good point. Licking is quicker though, lol.

    • @shawnlynch9826
      @shawnlynch9826 Před měsícem +1

      @@SealofPerfection listen to the nerd talking about pH
      Thanks for the vid though for real, its still ok to paint over the "surface rust" after cleaning the ospho off or whats the procedure behind that

    • @SealofPerfection
      @SealofPerfection  Před měsícem +1

      @@shawnlynch9826 yes, the Ospho converts the rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate, which is technically no longer rust.
      And if you put something over it so moisture and oxygen can't get to the metal, theoretically it should not rust anymore.
      The only part that makes me doubt how tall is wondering if I got it all with the Ospho or if there's a little rust left underneath there.
      That's why I would recommend get is absolutely much of the rust off as you can and only just have a little bit left there and convert that, and then get it coated as soon as possible

  • @mblake0420
    @mblake0420 Před 2 měsíci

    You can use fluid film or cosmoline to spray inside

  • @Ryan-yi6su
    @Ryan-yi6su Před měsícem +1

    Thanks for the tips. I ended up contacting the paint manufacturer to see if I need to neutralize before I paint.
    If we have to neutralize before we paint, does that mean we have to hurry up and rush to Prime before it starts to rust instantly?

    • @SealofPerfection
      @SealofPerfection  Před měsícem +1

      Pretty much, yes. Although you could easily take a Scotch-Brite and scuff off any flash rust, and in my case I am putting epoxy over it and that's going to seal it so nothing's going to rust further once you have that on there. But definitely check with your paint manufacturer, some brands are perfectly okay to put over Ospho.

    • @gregreed2713
      @gregreed2713 Před měsícem +1

      If you neutralize, but don't remove the phosphated finish, they shouldn't be much flash rusting.

  • @venny8a
    @venny8a Před měsícem

    After the Ospho can you add bondo or I have to use a primer first and then the bondo?
    Thank you.

    • @SealofPerfection
      @SealofPerfection  Před měsícem +1

      I would say it depends on the type of filler you were using. Check the TDS for whatever brand you have.
      Theoretically the answer should be yes you can use it

  • @garylawson5230
    @garylawson5230 Před 2 měsíci

    Can it be used inside rusty motorcycle fuel tanks

    • @SealofPerfection
      @SealofPerfection  Před 2 měsíci

      Yes. Email them and they'll tell you exactly how. I would still probably coat it with something afterwards, just to be safe, but the Ospho can kill the rust first.

  • @gregreed2713
    @gregreed2713 Před měsícem

    I know there are a thousand opinions on this subject, but actually you don't want to remove the Ospho, you just want to neutralize it.
    The phosphoric acid is phosphating the bare steel.
    If you check any industrial painting process, you'll find that phosphating is the pretreatment. I'm an engineer, automotive components, and I can tell you that for E-Coat, the salt spray resistance is basically dependent on the quality of the phosphating process, more than the paint itself.
    The other key point is that epoxy primers can't work with acidic surfaces. Phosphated - yes - great. But MUST be neutralized. Just water will do this.

    • @SealofPerfection
      @SealofPerfection  Před měsícem +1

      Don't disagree, but I am using SPI epoxy and therefore I am showing their recommended process.
      Check with the TDS of whatever you are using

    • @gregreed2713
      @gregreed2713 Před měsícem

      The challenge with this type of product is that the TDS of the primer and the TDS of the phosphoric acid pre-treatment often conflict, creating a lot of confusion.
      I'm using both prep & epoxy primer products from Kirker on a tractor project right now, and even there, not crystal clear.

  • @larrygriffin7024
    @larrygriffin7024 Před 6 dny

    You need to clean up your garage