The Stuart Turner 10H Part 1
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- The castings for this little horizontal steam engine were bequeathed to me from the estate of my late uncle. In memory of Len, I will be making the engine as a display piece but it will be a fully functional steam engine.
In this episode:
Machining the base casting
Machining the engine frame including the cylinder face, the crosshead bore, the bearing housings and the mounting holes
Trial assembly of the base and engine frame castings
Plus, some bonus clips of some orphaned animals being cared for by Wilvos, a charity I support through the income from this channel.
As far as I’m concerned, there is an unlimited appetite for steam engine builds. 👍
Mark, building model engines of any kind never gets old. What I find most interesting is the different set-ups that different builders use . Puts a lot of flat spots on the forehead 😉 ! The animals at the end makes it kind of special too . Carry on , I’ll be watching ! 😊 !
Thanks. Hitting the sweet spot between level of detail and actual machining content is a subjective thing but I appreciate getting feedback as I go along.
Regards,
Mark
Plus the different tools they have available and how they choose to use them. Enlightens my own workshop practice and purchases.
Mark - I’m so pleased that you decided to video the build. It never gets old.
Thanks Mark. Always learning here, Teach.....
I built one of these about 12 months ago. I wish this video had been available when i did mine. I had great problems sorting the the setup for boring the guide. Your solution was much more sensible than mine. Thank you, keep up the great videos.
I had already made the Stuart number 8 engine which is similar but slightly bigger. However, there's no one method that is the ideal solution.
Regards,
Mark
Mate! The aluminum plug in the casting bore was absolutely BRILLIANT!!!!! Thanks!!!!
Sacrificial parts save the day sometimes.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, thanks so much for doing the Stuart 10H. Yes there are many videos out there, but not this model (that I could find) and since I have this same one,these videos will really help me out on mine. And boy do I need the help. Thanks again, Jim
Thanks Jim. I have most of the next episode complete. I am just waiting on a reamer for the main bearings. I have a set of imperial reamers but not a 9/32". I do have a little carbide boring bar that I could have used but I thought the filling the gaps in my reamer collection was probably a better investment.
Regards,
Mark
Regardless of the project, I like seeing the process. The actual machining, the head-scratching over how to set operations up, dealing with castings, etc. It's all good, clean, fun.
Thanks and I hope you enjoy the rest of the build. Trying to decide the level of detail to include is never easy. Personally, I prefer to hear the problems solving method but I know that some people just want to see the metal being removed.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58I like to see the setup and problem solving. Other than a few short clips I get bored watching chips.
The hard spot in the casting is a PITA. I have ruined a few cutters on them, and fear I will break a carbide cutter when it suddenly picks up an inclusion.
Great …looking forward to the build
Good video, Preso! I’m so glad to see that you decided to do the steam engine on camera!
As they say, “You can please some of the people all of the time, and all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please whatever kind of monster wouldn’t want to watch someone with an Australian accent build a steam engine.”
Thanks for the animal videos, they are adorable when they’re babies. Except for the birds…. They start out ugly, but they do get better!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍
Thanks for that. Baby birds are kind of terrifying initially. Who said dinosaurs died out?
Regards,
Mark
I’ll be watching the entire series. It’s always useful to see how different machinists tackle different problems and setups with the tooling and equipment that they have on hand. If I ever decide to build one of these or a similar design I can pick and choose the methods and tooling that most closely match what I have available.
I think that is the benefit of having a sort of collective library of engine builds to choose from. You can rule out some build methods because you don't have the tooling but at some point you will see a method that you can achieve with what you have.
Regards,
Mark
Great video and I enjoyed the wildlife ending. Thanks.
Good for you Mark, lots of us like seeing engine builds , gives us ideas for our own builds. Keep up the good work mate. Regards Mike from Cornwall, UK
Thanks, and I am glad you are looking forward to the build series.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark. So pleased that you did decide to film this build. I have a “soft spot” for Stuart Turner models. The original premises of the Stuart Turner company are in Henley on Thames, some seven miles from my home. Whilst they long sold off their model making arm, the company still exists manufacturing various products.
I have a set of Stuart Half Beam castings awaiting my courage to begin it. 🥴🙏
This will be my third Stuart Turner engine build. There must be hundreds and thousands of them all over the world. I recall reading the advertisements for Stuart Turner kits in the British Model Engineer magazine (of which I have seven large boxes). The "Henley on Thames" address was featured in their ads.
Regards,
Mark
Thank you for sharing the build I really liked you're set up's
I agree that it’s always interesting and enlightening to see different ways to accomplish things, especially when working with castings. I haven’t had the chance to build anything from castings yet but I hope to store some tips until I can get the time. Thanks as always!
Thanks for deciding to show this build. That turning set up looked really sketchy but I know when those sort of things work it gives you a lot of satisfaction. Like the livestock bit at the end.
It was a bit embarrassing showing that faceplate setup and it did look sketchy. I have three angle plates and none had the ideal spacing or number of slots to suit the faceplate. My lathe has an L0 spindle nose which isn't common so finding faceplates isn't easy either.
Regards,
Mark
Great stuff as always, Mark. Happy to watch you building another steam engine, and also to see the animals -Wilvos are doing a great job!
Thanks. I always get a nice personal email from Wilvos when I make the monthly donation and it is with the support of viewers such as yourself that we can help with the important work they do.
Regards,
Mark
Glad you decided to do this. You've made me happy.
Good to see your back Nigel brought a smile to my face when i so you posted a video as always grate content looking forward to next video
Nicely paced Mark 👍
The additional ‘animal’ footage is a great idea… specially for your overseas subscribers.
Thanks
Robert
Thanks. I was keen to show people to where the donations go. Most of the carers are not reimbursed for any of their costs but the money that I donate does supply feed and things like incubators.
Regards,
Mark
Perfect amount of detail. Great animals.
Terrific job on that crosshead bore faceplate setup, Preso!. That really is an excellent way to do it, even though it is a ton work. It references the bore to the bottom surface, which is ideal. I usually end up cheating with some sort of four jaw chuck setup and it’s never as good as what you did.
Thanks Quinn. I was somewhat nervous with that setup. My wife's nice, new Subaru Imprezza was in the firing line if any of the hardware decided to fly off the faceplate. Instant grounds for divorce if I dinged the car!
Regards,
Mark
Fantastic, I built the 10V as a kid.
Interesting setups Mark. Great to see the wildlife getting good care too. Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon. I always get a nice email from Wilvos when I make the monthly donation.
Regards,
Mark
Thanks Mark, I have a set of these castings and your series will no doubt help me when I eventually get round to machining them.
It seems there are a lot of these kits out there in the wild! Good luck with the build.
Regards,
Mark
Excellent content Preso keep up the good work!
looking froward to this build. thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Very interesting, Mark. Glad you decided to rejig the base, many would just plough on regardless. Cute critters at the end too! What's not to like! All the best, Mart in England.
Thanks Mart. The wildlife carers are inundated with lots of orphaned babies so they are always cute. Birds not so much but I can see why it's rewarding nonetheless.
Regards,
Mark
Thank you, i really love your small engine builds...
Excellent video thank you. That mapping function of the touch dro is very nice
You can save an almost infinite number of point setups using Touch DRO. I usually delete them once I have finished a setup but in theory, you could have a library of mapped points all referenced to an absolute origin.
Regards,
Mark
Thanks for doing the engine! Yeah there are other series, but I for one still enjoy each one if for no reason other than the unique ways of work and quirky problems that much be solved for each. Looking forward to more episodes!
I am glad you are looking forward to the build. For me it's a sort of tribute to my late uncle who had purchased the castings but had never got around to doing anything with them.
Regards,
Mark
Bless you for that. I'm sure he'd be happy to know it.
Thanks for doing this build Mark. The10H frame casting can be a tricky setup. Turned out great. Thanks for showing us.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. I have a set of these castings and want to complete them this year. There is an interesting interview with the foundry that makes these and owns Stewart here on CZcams. Stay safe and appreciate your videos
I will check that out. The first Stuart engine I built was the twin cylinder launch engine and it had the steam passages cast into the cylinder block. Making such tiny cores successfully must have been quite and achievement!
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 the video is called "an evening with bridport foundry" the channel is national traction engine trust. The foundry is based in Dorset. The castings and cores are nice seem to be accurate for castings even at such small scale
I have yet to try building one of these model engines. I attended a big event this past weekend with Mick from Mick's Workshop and there were dozens of engines on display. Maybe hundreds. From all sizes of steam/air driven as well as hit and miss and internal combustion. I enjoy watching these as it gives me some inspiration to one day try building one of my own. And I really appreciate what you are doing to help the wildlife organization. Cheers!
Thanks for watching. The hobby of model engineering does a lot towards keeping engineering skills alive. There is a very good exhibition held in Melbourne each year and for the last three years I have been unable to attend. Twice because of Covid and once because we had booked an overseas holiday which clashed. Hopefully I will make it there this year. Gary Sneezby who runs Eccentric Engineering does a good job promoting it.
Regards,
Mark
You gave me a solution I had never considered...Putting a plug into the cast bore for center locating. I've fretted over trying to indicate either ID or OD.
I cannot take credit for that idea. I had read about it in the British Model Engineer magazine. However it's simple and it works.
Regards,
Mark
I love the speedy presentation, keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
Regards,
Mark
Good Show Mate: As per normal. Your photography on this project has been special. I really appreciate that. Looking forward to the rest of this project. Be well.
I'm delighted that you decided to make this video series. I'm really interested to see how you tackle drilling the hole in the far end of the valve chest. Joe Pie has an accurate but impractical approach. I've just finished the Stuart S50 mill engine and the hole is misaligned by a few thou. Not enough to stop it running, but the valve spindle just rubs on one side of the hole.
I agree with the notion of celebrating what to me was a lifelong dream of owning a working Stuart Turner engine. I purchased the UK Model Engineer magazine when it was published fortnightly and I used to linger over the advertisements for Stuart engines wishing that one day I would have the means to make one. This will be my third,
Regards,
Mark
The problem with these thin walled castings is that cooling goes fast. You can easily pick up white iron which causes hard spots. Be prepared to encounter them. Now some foundries heat treat and shot peen which reduces these.
“This one really takes the biscuit”…. Love that expression!:)
I have seen Clarke Easterling from Windy Hill Foundry annealing all his castings in an electric furnace. I think his heating and cooling cycle takes nearly 12 hours. Back in the bad old days, before I had any carbide tooling, I encountered a similar casting for a Stuart Twin Steam Launch engine which had almost white iron and it killed every HSS tool I threw at it. I think I eventually ground the casting flat on the side of a bench grinder wheel!
Regards,
Mark
Nice video Preso, I think I like watching these because it is so much easier than making one myself, and it keeps me error-free. Great job on these castings, they do pose a lot of unforeseen challenges, don't they.
Great little session on your hobby "zoo-keeping", these cute little guys sure are entertaining when they are little . Cheers from the frozen north lands (-24 C)!
Just to make you jealous, my wife and I went for a swim and a walk along the beach over at Noosa this morning. 😁
I did some more work on the 10H this morning but it all came to a halt when I realised I didn't have a 9/32" reamer for the bearings.
Regards,
Mark
Have you ever tried making a reamer from proper sized drill rod in a pinch?
Enjoy the nice weather, cheers!@@Preso58
Ein sehr gut belegendes Video für physikalisch quantiesierte korrekte Fertigung von Gußteilen.
Vielen danke!
Regards,
Mark
Good start Mark. There may be lots of other videos on these builds, but your detailed explanation and problem solving is something that we can all learn from.
Thankyou for the video! I just recently started on a Stuart 10H myself.
Thanks for videoing this build, it will be fun to watch how you do it. I'm going to help a friend with a Bolton #2 horizontal engine. I'm considering using stock material to replace some of the cast bits because it looks like it will be easier than trying to hold oddball castings like the connecting and valve rods!
Thanks. Some castings can be a nightmare to hold, especially if you have to do a lot of stock removal. The grip can sometimes be a bit "marginal".
Regards,
Mark
dang, cool I learned what "fettling" is, what a really really scary lathe work-holding looks like at 350rpm, and the strange wildlife of Australia. Quite the informative video.
"Fettling" is one of those unique words from the British dialect of Lancashire. Also heard in the phrase "I am in fine fettle" meaning "I'm feeling fit and healthy".
Regards,
Mark
Great video Mark. Good proportions of setup, machining and waffle 😊. Never became boring. @11:50 I dont think that tolerance is a bit wide at all. After all you were only using a "by eye" centre punch to establish it.
I should have been able to get it spot on but the slots in the faceplate and the angle plate wouldn't allow for the last tiny movement I needed to get it perfect. I was actually considering machining the slots wider but I had already broken down the setup at least five times and it got the better of me in the end. 😥
Regards,
Mark
Very cool! Love watching these old engines get built. Thanks! Mike c
Enjoyed
Nice to see this, please show all the details that go with the machining. 🍻
Thanks. I am trying to show "enough" detail without too much talking. I am working on part 2 at present but I found out I don't own a 9/32" reamer for the bearings so it's on hold until I can get one delivered.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Its an odd size for sure, and my one won't help you as its over here in the uk. Very close to 7mm though, which is how my 10V was built.
Yes it has been done to death but so what. Your method will not be the same as others. So still very interesting to watch. Looking forward to part 2.
Steve.
Thanks Steve. If it runs at the end I count that as a win.
Regards,
Mark
Hey Preso, I'm a bit late to the series here! But looks greats, and very much looking fwd to seeing how you tackle this little engine👍
Thanks Stevo. I am almost finished with the build now and my next step is to dismantle the engine and do all the finishing. I will be powdercoating all the castings and polishing all the steel bits but I want the engine to drive something and I want it to run on steam so that means a coal fired boiler and a dynamo or a pump of some sort. I am sure you know how much copper costs now and almost all of the copper suppliers in Australia have gone away so getting materials is going to be a challenge. I also have a set of castings for a Rob Roy locomotive and even the frame steel is unavailable (it is specified as 1/8" thick and I now have a choice of 3mm or 4mm). Even the buffer steel is going to be hard to get.
Regards,
Mark
I built the 10V, a lovely engine, the casting are very good quality, unlucky to hit some chilled material. I've a set of 10H casting some have been poorly machined, I acquired them as an abandoned project. Looking forward to your build videos, I'm inspired to work on my 10H castings from time to time, too many other priority projects though.
Thanks Nigel. I found some more chilled spots in the castings today. Nothing too bad but it killed a couple of my files. I switched over to using a Dremel and that took care of it.
Regards,
Mark
An unusual format but absolutely enjoyable
Thanks for posting this, Ive bought the vertical version as my xmas present so I'm interested to see your setups. While many people have posted their small engine builds, everyone seems to have a lathe and mill. Alas I only have a myford lathe. I haven't come across anyone posting an engine build with only a lathe....
Interestingly, the notes that came with the castings state that you can build this engine using only hand tools. I recall reading a build series in the UK Model Engineer magazine for an engine called "Handmaiden". It was built entirely with hand tools like files, a hand cranked drill and some clever fixtures but according to the writer, none of the parts were made on a lathe or a milling machine. The Myford is a very capable little lathe so I am sure you would be able to generate a good working model.
Regards,
Mark
Joe pie has done a few and they never get old to me
Great vid. Thx.
Thanks Mark for the great video, ideal content for this beginner! Wonderful what that DRO system can do though I doubt whether my budget will ever stretch to that sort of system.
If you have an old Android phone or tablet you already have 1/3 of the system. The TouchDRO adapters used to be around the AU$100 mark but they have increased in price since Yuriy rationalised the range of options he is selling. The glass scales are probably the most expensive item but the Chinese Sino scales are good and 5 microns is probably good enough for most work unless you are doing aerospace parts. Having said that, as a beginner it is a good idea to learn to use the micrometer dials on machine tools. It helps you to understand backlash and there is no reason why you cannot carry out precision work with them.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thanks Mark for the info re DRO options. I'm still getting the hang of using the dials on my lathe! I don't yet have a mill so, when that time comes, a DRO will clearly have big advantages. TouchDRO seems to be pretty useful. 🤔👍😃
Bring it on. Steam engines are a main stay of model engineering. Everyone does it differently. If you don’t like steam engines, don’t watch. But Rudy Kouhoupt Was a pioneer on videoing shop videos before u-tube. He said engines are like potato chips. You can’t just eat one.
The four engines:
10H - single cylinder, horizontal
10V - single cylinder, vertical
D10V or "Double 10V" - two cylinder vertical
D10H or "Score" - two cylinder horizontal
As you point out they're all substantially similar engines - all double-acting, and with many of the same castings though I don't know of anybody who's managed to put the reversing gear from the Double 10V on a Score. ;)
I would enjoy building a Stuart #3 someday, if I could ever manage to work up the courage to fire a boiler large enough to run the thing. ;)
I do have the drawings for the reversing gear parts and I was tempted to try to make those parts from stock but unless a horizontal engine is running something like a rolling mill or a crane it's probably not necessary. Even engines running machinery via belts can be reversed at the machine without having to reverse the engine. I did work at the Maritime Museum in Brisbane when I was studying at college and they had a steam operated yard crane with several reversing engines to operate the boom, the winch and the slewing gear. They ran it on compressed air one day and it was fascinating to watch.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 that's *magnificent* :D
Awesome
Thanks for the great video.
Great vid. Most others would have covered each step in unnecessary detail and have been hours of video.
Just the major steps and the things to consider. Thanks.
I do tend to waffle on if I am given the chance. I will try to stick with the more compact format.
Regards,
Mark
If it looks right it IS right
Absolutely!
Regards,
Mark
Presa,
Hi from the U.K. Not everyone builds the reversing mechanism on the Stewart Models, not even Joe Pi.
Is it possible that you could include this in your build please? Yes, there are other examples on CZcams, but there are a group of us who Subscribe to your Channel for a reason: The QUALITY of workmanship!!
Please consider doing this for me, and others who you may well find interested, should you ask😊.
Mark, thank you for your fantastic work, I’m disabled and can’t get to my workshop anymore and would hate to see what my sons have done inside to it!
I really appreciate what you do. Thank you again.
Regards,
Paul 🇬🇧
Paul, I do have the drawings for the reversing mechanism on the Stuart 10H. I had not intended to include it in the build but I do have the Stuart twin cylinder marine engine that I built many years ago when I was just starting out in the model engineering hobby. Instead of starting with something simple I went straight to a more complex model. I had always intended to add the reversing gear to that engine but didn't get around to it. I would like to do an overhaul on it and I may include the machining in a future video. I have just finished the crankshaft, the bearings and the flywheel for the 10 and those parts turned out well. I was particularly nervous about the crankshaft and when you see the video you will notice how gingerly I am making the cuts. It's a case of "one false move and it's all over".
The next episode should be out in a bit over a week.
Regards,
Mark
Thanks!
I think I missed something. I don't understand why the holes didn't line up. The DRO should get it spot on on both parts.
And say hello to Donna from us.
Michel, the holes would have lined up perfectly but the initial start point I had used would have put the top casting offset from the base. It would fit but it would look wrong. I just had to tweak the starting location. Yes, Donna does a great job and she contacts me from time to time with some new clips. I always get a nice personal email from Wilvos when I made the monthly donation too.
Regards,
Mark
Now we're talkin'!
Woo hoo, I'm number one.
Haven't watched it yet but I don't get to say that very often.
John 🇨🇦
Mark how did you align the cylinder bore with the lathe axis? What did you use for a datum on the casting… just curious
All I could do was to align the centre of the cylinder flange with the lathe axis and then run a square along the long edge of the engine frame. Once I had an accurate bore in the flange the crankshaft axis could be aligned with the face of the cylinder flange. There's probably 10 other ways it could have been done and all of the workflows rely on a sort of empirical approach where the initial reference surface or axis becomes the basis for the steps that follow.
Regards,
Mark
Hey mate what is the zeroing tool called that is used in your mill for finding centres ?
The probe is a Chinese made touch probe but you need to connect it to a DRO with the capability for resetting the axes when the probe touches the part. I am using TouchDRO which is an app based DRO which runs on an Android tablet or phone. The controller has pins which accept the three wires coming from the probe. One is for 5V positive, one for ground and one for the signal. You can see the probe and the app in more detail in this video czcams.com/video/8OLyIAmY5c8/video.html
Regards,
Mark
Great video, good pace, right amount of detail, interesting Aussie wild life at the end. I haven't seen the Stuart 10H, specifically, on youtube before, there's quite a few 10V which of course are very similar, but even for those, none that are crisp and clear like yours. Thanks. Incidentally, the animals look cute, but all Aussie wild life will kill you, won't it?
Thanks. I got out my old Stuart Turner number 8 to film some detail on it and I was surprised at how much larger the 8 is compared to the 10H. Smaller engines can be a bit more of a challenge sometimes. It is true that most of our wildlife and some of our plants will try to kill you if it gets the chance.
Regards,
Mark
👍👍😎👍👍
Is that a hand scraped surface plate that I saw you doing layout on?
I doubt that it was hand scraped. Certainly not by me. It was the cheapest 400 X 400 cast iron surface plate that I could purchase new. I guess it may have had some sort of scraping pattern put on it to give a sort of surface texture though.
Regards,
Mark
Always a pleasure watching you work and your discriptions. Nice work!