DIY Flexible Solar Panel Install - POWER FROM THE SUN!
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- Powering the house systems on an overland vehicle with solar makes perfect sense - the solar power is free, it takes load off the vehicle's alternator and it means the vehicle systems can run even on days where the engine is not started.
I manage to cram 600W of lightweight, flexible panels onto the roof of the Jeep camper, and today I show you how to do it yourself.
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Renogy 200W Flexible lightweight solar panel: renogy.sjv.io/zNJRJO
Renogy 50Amp IP67 DC/DC + Solar Charge Controller: renogy.sjv.io/5gNPnD
Renogy 100Ah Smart Lithium Battery: renogy.sjv.io/Qy9kEP
Renogy Cable Glad: renogy.sjv.io/3e4Y4K
Use code "Theroadchoseme" at checkout for a 5% / 10% discount across the store!
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3M Dual Lock TYPE 400 : www.amazon.com/dp/B01G9EOEF2?...
3M Dual Lock TYPE 250: www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQ6IS1G?...
Dual Lock is strongest when attatch TYPE 400 to TYPE 250
00:00 Introduction
01:21 Roof Removal
02:04 Brackets & plate installation
03:36 Attaching the Solar Panels
08:52 Cable Gland Installation
10:45 Solar Panel Wiring
14:58 Roof Install
15:40 Durability Test
16:37 Power Output Test
20:03 Outro
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Great work and great video - as usual - well done.
One suggestion would be to add a piece of aluminum trim that covers the leading edge of the solar panels. Attach it with the same super velcro. You know your roof will get scraped up from trees and things and just don't want something snagging the front edge of a panel and ripping it.
This looks great, Dan! One recommendation... Buy a cover for the spare tire. You will not get wind noise and its slightly more aerodynamic. I use a cover for my roof-mounted spare, and it was noticeably quieter after install than beforehand. It could be a nonissue for you, but my spare was making some noise, so I had to do something. Just a suggestion. Anyway, love the Jeep camper build. It is genuinely amazing.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into that. The camper does have a bit of wind noise at highway speed, I've been wondering if it's the spare, or the flat front wall of the camper
A cover will also stop UV damage to the tyre
@@10gimp39 yes it will
Agreed. Rubber dries out in sunlight. A cover slows the drying process.
It also protects the tire from sun it will last longer
One bonus to your parallel use is if for some reason 600w was not enough (ie parked in shade), you could always hook up some portable ground solar as well. Awesome rig, can't wait to see how you put the bed platform together!
I will be copying this for my offroad trailer. Should be able to fit two panels!
Good luck and have fun on the build!
this root is so neat! Really like the flush type and the power behind. A lot of thinking, a bit of thinkering and a lot of enjoyin' after that.
Glad you like it!
Already have all Renogy gear. Love it! I don't see how you can beat it etheir.
I'm so here for this video, Dan, great install!
like like like like
Thanks 👍
Nice work, I went parallel for my 3x100w on my setup with the DMAX when I'm running the RTT. Partial shade performance 👍👍
4:27
I did exactly that 7 years ago! 6 x / panel with a 45mm circle + sika 221 (= not the 3NM/qmm stuff). Hold´s up to 140km/h being at THE FRONT of the rounded roof! = High Pressure zone.
Nothing else holding these to the roof!
Your choice of placing is a LOW pressure zone. The plates are quite small, otherwise I would think the velcro is not needed.
What I would always suggest: Make it so that water will always be able to run off the roof/PV when standing in every angle! It just takes 3 days under a tree or 2 weeks w/o and the roof is very, very dirty.
Regarding gab: A PV connected to the roof, makes the roof a heatsink. A gab does not. I do not see a benefit in a 6mm gab.
When a slim PV is on a surface, you can stand on it with no issues. Not with a gab of course. I do not know if your roof is capable of taking the weight of a person, but a foldable SUB e.g. or similar can be nice to place onto the roof for a short drive (like from the beach) or similar. Or a bag ...
That gap under the panels will do very well to get a lot of heat out with even a little breeze.
Another advantage of running your solar panels in parallel is that you won't have total charging failure if one solar panel becomes defective. Have you considered using silicone caulking to hold the wires to the roof instead of the Gorilla tape?
Amazing! Thanks for sharing your experience!!
My pleasure!
Interesting idea using bugs as aero wind tufts. Makes the spare a bit sticky.
Winter snow might reveal a pattern too.
In Quebec, freezing rain is a concern. Allowing the panels to move from ice loading should help.
"freezing rain" is a very local concern. I can count the days in my live when I have seen that.
But that can be a huge issue in many ways.
Amazing Dan. Following this build since day 1 and now to near completion. Excellent my friend! Really awesome and hopefully my JT can be built into something like this soon
Thanks for the support!
Hey just a heads up, I have just had some Renogy solar panels for a few years on the roof of our camper trailer, exactly how you have installed your panels. One of the panels stopped working a couple of months ago, the panel was found to be under warranty, except I had cut and soldered the wires just like you, because I had done this, I had modified the panel and it wasn't covered under warranty. Renogy in the past have been quite supportive, but in this case they weren't very helpful at all with this claim.
I figured I was voiding the warranty when I did that, thanks
Excited to see your opinion on these. I used a cheap Chinese 100w flexible panel in southern California for a year and then it was dead. (barely generating) I've heard its because they don't have a way to dissipate heat as well as a traditional hard panel. I just now I won't be buying them again.
Another excellent installation 👍
Thanks 👍
What an awesome app.
As Dan awesome work!
Looks very nice
Thank you! Cheers!
My experience with Eternabond (similar to white gorilla tape) is that is traps water over time. Might not be an issue for you since you used heat shrink on the wires, but I live in the PNW where things stay wet a lot.
Great video as always Dan 👍 There doesn't appear to be anything stopping the bolt rotating in the spreader plates (that hold the solar panel). Yes I did notice some roof & bed system parts, really looking forward to that video. Re the other comment about cleaning under the panel, if you can easily remove them then you can clean that way. I'm thinking of going flexible panels on my next build. Rigid panels are very heavy when you've got a lot. Regarding the soldering, if the wiring gets hot won't the solder fail? I like that you've taped down the wiring although there appears to be some gaps at the ends where water/dirt could get trapped. Maybe there is some way to tape down tighter there or maybe caulk the gaps? I'm amazed you managed to fit 600W on that little roof, well done 😁
Great summary on the serial vs parallel, thereto is one extra thing… charge controllers need 5v to run, so you don’t start charging until the panels give you 19.5v. When in parallel, all the panels need to give up those 5v, but in series, only one gives it up, the other don’t. An example:
3 panels that produce 20v @ 10amp, in parallel that is 20v @ 30 amp, but 5v goes to run the MPPT, so there is 15v @ 30 amp. Convert that down to 14.5v and you have 31 amp. Now put them in series, 60v @ 10 amp, subtract 5v for 55v @ 10amp, convert to 14.5v and you get 34 amp (about 43 more watts)
So there are some serious disadvantages, when you have three or four days of overcast, those extra amps really matter!
I personally would not go back to low voltage array for my mobile roof top setup. 40V minimum in my opinion particularly when located in regions where the sun is limited during winter. I've experienced the vast differences with series and parra circuits
"is 20v @ 30 amp, but 5v goes to run the MPPT, so there is 15v @ 30 amp."
Cannot be true. This would mean that the MPPT takes 5v*30 A to run? = 15W. For sure this is not a static value, as Maximum Power Point Tracking suggests.
But most of all: It is sponsored by a company. Therefore there are no other options. Here in Europe, most people use victron stuff. I just bought a 80 + 160 W panel, as the need to fit certain spots on the roof.
= to charger: 75/15, the very small ones. Similar size as a package of cigaretts, 55€ each. So I do not care. Except for double the cable from the roof.
@@derJackistweg I believe the more accurate explanation is that MPPTs require a 5v differencial with the battery prior to commencing charge.
@cyclemoto8744 @derJackistweg So I watched my system tonight as the sunset.
Battery voltage was 13.4v, panels were putting out 15.4v at 0.52A and the battery was charging.
If they were in Series it would have been roughly 46.2v at 0.173A for the same power output.
It's clear my charger does not require a 5v differential between the panels and the battery to charge.
@@TheRoadChoseMe To compare the effect of series and parra you would need to measure the output from the MPPT opposed to the output from the panel or array. If you observed charge with less than 5v differential I have no reason to doubt you because you come across as competent person. I do not know the brand or model or your mppt so impossible to know the specifications. I can say that I've used various brand named MPPTs over the years with the most current being Victron which has outperformed all others when following the specified 5v differential. Your charger may be different. Cheers
We recently had to replace the flexible solar panels on our caravan, which had stopped working, with glass solar.
Experts say if flexible solar is laid flat on the roof it overheats and stops working. There must be an air space to let the panels vent excess heat.
Our new Enerdrive glass solar panels are working brilliantly. We recently went 56 nights in Tasmania without needing to plug into mains power even once.
Our 200amp lithium battery was fully recharged by midday.
You might get away without an air gap in cold weather, but it could be a problem in warmer temperatures.
BTW our Enerdrive charger could handle up to 600 watts of solar. We have 400. Maybe you need a bigger controller.
The charge controller I'm using can handle up to 720W of Solar, just not above 50V of input
I'd have mounted the panels to a framed perforated aluminum sheet Fewer holes in the roof, air circulation underneath for cooling (and water drainage), easy removal for maintenance, and cleaner wiring on the underside so no snags.
Flex panals will last about twelve mths out doors , so be prepared to replace them very quickly
My exp with the adhesive on the industrial Velcro is, when it gets hot it melts and looses stick. I have had stuff come unglued from painted surfaces that way. I would use a Velcro that doesn't have adhesive and glue it down with your industrial adhesive. Especially where those panels will get very hot.
Do you know if the surfaces were prepped correctly before the adhesive was put on? that makes a HUGE difference
Time Stamp 14:30. Possibly paint the black wires White?
I had pretty terrible experience with those panels. I hope it’s better for you.
Awesome. Would love info, or links, to the 3m tape and epoxy glue for the aluminum backing plates. Did not see them in the description. Is it possible to add a display to monitor without a smart phone? Thanks
Thanks, I just added links to the 3M dual lock in the description.
The adhesive we are using for the backing plates and entire camper assembly is "Korapop 225" from Germany. Sika make many similar products, make certain you get the right one for your application, and use the correct activator, with the correct time delay and curing time.
3M has adhesive promoter for VHB, do they have something similar for the Dual Lock strips?
Oh boy. I need to install my two 400w panels. They are traditional rigid panels, heavy as shit. Kind of thinking I should have gone with less but lighter panels since the DC-DC is charging as I drive anyway.
Lots of people have issues with the flexible panels. Avoid if possible
Are you worried at all about heat transference of having these flexible panels closer to the roof than say that of your africa jeep with a raised panel?
Yes, it is a concern for sure, though I hope the 6mm gap will be enough to not damage the composite panel of the roof from the heat. Time will tell, I will report back
In a previous video you had already chosen an induction cooktop. What are the specs on that cooktop's draw?
It has two burners that are 1500W each on max
@@TheRoadChoseMe Neat. I'm assuming they are running on 110vAC from the inverter? Whats the draw down on the battery after a meal (ballpark)?
yep, off a 3000W inverter.
I have not used it yet, but I'll be reporting back after we put it through it's paces for sure
@@TheRoadChoseMewhich induction cooktop are you using?
Dometic CI120
Do you notice yourself using less gas now that the alternator isn't demanding as much?
to be clear I'm not sure how an alternator works lol. If you need more power it causes the engine to run at higher RPMs right?
Charging off the alternator does put more load on the engine, and will result in high gas usage, yes. Is it significant enough to be noticeable? The jury is out on that.
@@TheRoadChoseMe gotcha, thanks!
Space between solar panel and roof is to small, in this gap will be dirt, dust, leaf of trees etc, and all this stuff will block air circulate and of course your roof will be hot. Will be hard to clean up under solar panel.
I will let you know how it works out long term
@@TheRoadChoseMe
Of course I will watch you.
Best regards from Europe.
You went to all that trouble with the wiring because you didn't buy a slightly larger controller America might believe you but aussie,s will be laughing a suitable victron unit very light but they aren't a sponsor white tape looks awful the guy that built the back would be horrified 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
As an American, I'm horrified he is using one charge controller for the alternator and the panels. If that burns out, no charging at all.