Heavy Duty Leveling Caster: s.vevor.com/bfQhIF 1 HP 1750 Motor: s.vevor.com/bfQgLZ Belt Splicing: • Flat Belt Fabricating ... How to buy Belt: • Flat belt splicing and...
I’ve used JB Weld to fill drill marks in cast iron, let it cure then sand it flush. You can still see it since the color doesn’t quite match but it looks a whole lot better than the holes and gives you a smooth surface. Thanks for posting the video!
As usual, nice work! Something that you might want to consider doing when you’re working with hot rolled is to use a flap wheel to remove the mill scale in the area that you’ll be cutting. Where the cutter hits the mill scale will leave a wear mark on your HSS cutters. Basically you’ll end up with a dull spot where the blade cut through the scale.
The only HSS I use is on my band saw and drills. Judging by how hard it is to grind off I'd say you are right but I've never noticed and problems... That would take a lot of time to do every time I drill and cut! No disrespect but I'll take the dull tools over grinding. Thanks
That rolling mill is really cool. I like it! Too bad in Florida the greatest altitude difference is from the front of the garage to the back. If i put casters on my mill, it would be sitting in the retention pond a minute later. As is, I have to raise the front nearly two inches higher than the back to get it level in my garage. KY is looking better all the time. Keep up this great series. Don
Hello Winky, Awesome restoration you performed there, love the color too, those caster wheels excellent, looks so easy to move about when you want to, great video computation, enjoyed it lots, thanks for sharing, cheers from magicbytes 😷
That was an impressive series. Your attention to details and workmanship are exemplary. You have given that machine another 100 years minimum to live and be useful. The just don't build them like that any more!
It looks and works well Winky, good job mate, excellent machine, power down feed will be real handy, i'm pleased with the castors as well, i'm going to get some for my Lathe and Bandsaw.
On my W-I model 645, I only use the slow power down feed. I think it's a 1.5 thou per spindle revolution. I was surprised that the C face mount dimensions did not change over all these years, must be just the base mount holes and location relative to the shaft that NEMA changed. I did put a 1HP 3ph on my lathe (10x24). It had a motor shaft of 7/8". So I removed it, and turned it down to the 14mm of the existing 2 step pulley that came with the lathe. Real odd that it had some metric stuff. The feed screws are all Imperial (1/8", not the expected .1" on the cross and compound, as well the original tail stock). Oh, and the mistake I made when turning down the motor shaft, I left a sharp inside corner edge from the 14mm to 7/8" transition, within a few years a crack developed and the pulley when spinning off. I had to get another motor off eBay. This time the motor shaft was 5/8" so I modified the pulley. Which I figured out the original 14mm hole was not concentric to the V groove, which caused all that vibration to create the crack metal fatigue failure. I would suggest putting the DRO scale on the front of the table, so you don't limit the rear travel. I ended up mounting a 1" solid square bar along the front edge of the table, recessed down from the table top, the scale mounted to that, it gave me the adjustability. To provide a FOD cover, I put a 2" angle iron mounted to the top of the 1" square bar stock. This prevents accidental hitting of the scale with the vise or rotary table (your next mill accessory). I leave my 12 Inch H/V rotary table on the table all the time, just slide it to the end. It has a 10" 3 jaw chuck mounted on it, so it's very heavy. Seems I'm always doing bolt circles or machining hex on some round bar for a wrench flat. I know you can get a DRO that does bolt circles and other geometry stuff, so maybe a rotab is not needed. But you can also machine arcs. Looks like there are many copies of the Kurt vise now available. I think a 6" is still the right size for your mill.
The old Rong Fu served you well. Thanks for sharing the upgrades on it. Congratulations on the new mill. Another old iron restoration well done. “I like it “. 👍👍
I like this Idea because it can be done and still taken apart if need be the side wall can mostly stay intact with a 40 footer and wont look like shipping containers for some one to complain about. It can be insulated !
@@WinkysWorkshop sorry this comment and I dont exactly know how but it some how got posted on your channel it was supposed to be posted on a shipping container channel. Cell phone glitch I guess. I was watching your channel recently though.
Thanks. And true about welding. In hindsight I should have welded little triangle gussets in the corners of the wheel brackets to stop the distortion. Fortunately the wheels worked well anyway.
nice little caster set up :) simple, easy, and does the job. You might want to put gussets on them later, I can see them sagging after a few years. But nicely done
I think I had that exact same import vise on my mill, then later a drill press. Japanese made, pretty excellent quality...for a drill press vise. My example had about .020-.025 of jaw lift, and I really had to be careful on setup when it was on my mill. I ended up swapping it for a beat up Bridgeport vise when the local HS got smaller drill presses. The BP vise isn't a whole lot better, but it is easier to tap down square when tight. Good luck with the rest of the restoration!
Yeah... it's a good drill press vise but definitely not good for a mill. I just bought a new CNC mill vise. It's basicly the same as any other mill vice but has no coolant gutter or mounting lugs. I like it because it because it can be clamped anywhere on the table.
I have the same Index Model 40 only mine was made in the 1940's. The down feed mechanism is a bit different and mine has the power cross feed for the table. The belts are a pain to change so I resolved the problem with an industrial 90V DC motor with a controller. Belt changes are rare now.
to improve those castors they should have put a worm drive on that red wheel and the mating shaft coming out to the front with a drive socket for a drill. Many European motors have 19mm (about 3/4") shafts.
You did a great job on the mill and it's a perfect size for your shop. I always wanted to replace my round column mill for a better one but my wife thinks her car belongs in the garage. Thanks for the video and good luck with the mill.
Yes they do. I don't mind this on my mill. It will stay put most the time but if I wanted to move it frequently it would be a pain. Can't beat the price!
I sent my quill from my Index 40 to Wells Index and they regrouned my Brown and Sharp 9 to R8. Works great. Also added DRO and X peer feed. I’ll send pics if you like.
Yeah, I decided to keep the B&S #9 taper. A new collet set was available for about $120. R8 would be more convenient but really the only additional tapers I needed are for a boring bar and drill chuck. I found a Morris #2 to B&S for my chuck and found a B&S boring head arbor new. So now I have everything I'll ever need. I did notice the B&S collets are a lot harder to get out but after I figured out how the Wells Index draw bar was supposed to work (and made a nut for the spline) ejecting the taper is super easy. There is another consideration as well. A slower taper on the collet (like the B&S) transfers more clamping force to the end mill. I think they actually hold better. The only negative is they get stuck but the new drawbar address that. Do you have the captive nut well index drawbar?
@@WinkysWorkshop I don’t know about it being self ejecting just that it is what came with the mill when I bought it. I never used the B&S#9 collets. Had it ground immediately.
The specs are a little confusing but they imply that they will hold 4400. They do well with 1250 but its hard for me to say how much more they will take.
Well Done Mark, a great outcome. Perhaps with the wheels, make yourself some sort of spanner to crank the wheels instead of having to use your fingers. Regards from Australia.
your center idler works differently mine is a flat plate that slides in a groove, same as the motor, that whole top unit is different, even the quill head. My power down feed is totally different, the pulley arrangement on to most of the minor castings are different.
I need to look into when mine was made, somebody said I could call wells and find out. I did find a chart that says it was about 1950 but the casting for the belt guard has a date that says 1955. The manual I have shows your design and mine. I think yours would be easier to move belts on. Interesting about the down feed. What year is yours?
@@WinkysWorkshop April 1943. My motor plate slides with a lever and a stop pawl, open the pawl and the lever moves the motor forward, and the center pulley slides on its own from belt tension
If you want to keep your old motor, there are outfits that rewind them, and make them virtual new. I have a local shop that does basic motor work, but they have a company they deal with for in depth repairs.
The company I was dealing with rewinds motor but the cost was very high. As cool as the old motor looked I don't think the new one looks too bad and for sure it's working great. Plus it has twice the power... I think 1/2HP i a bit small for this size mill.
Mark I am jealous, and I already have 3 mills. That is certainly a sweet looking mill. I wish I had of known about the Vevor Casters before I paid $60 for the Elephant Casters, I bought for my Antique Champion Blower Camel Back drill press. What is the rating on the casters? Thanks for spending your time making the video for us to enjoy. I have a Vevor mill vice and a Vevor rotary table that I have yet to use but I am sure based on the other items I have bought from Vevor they are good quality.
Yes but it is the same RPM as my current motor. However, as you know I an installing a VFD. I was going to put spacers under the motor so I could install a shaft extender and use the original 3 step pulley. Now I think I will use a single groove pulley. If I use the correct size I should be able to eliminate the spacers and be working is a speed range that will well with the motor. Plus I still have 3 step on the spindle pulley I can adjust for extreme slow of fast speeds
If that motor pulley has a 2" for the smallest and an 8" for the largest size that would be a 4:1 reduction and the vfd can do 6:1 so the single pulley should work. @@WinkysWorkshop
When I reduced my woodcutting bandsaw for metal, I changed my mind several times using single ph motors, (two gearboxes and two motors), then bought a 3ph fixed gearbox and motor and a vfd. Then, like an idiot, it occurred to me just to change the pulley on the blade wheel and use a plain 3ph motor with a step pulley to all the existing pulleys. That combination gave me a range of 100 sfpm to 2600 sfpm. And, I have a tach that counts the six spokes on the blade wheel pulley and reads out the blade speed in sfpm using a stored multiplier. It was a learning experience and I enjoyed it. I do have some extra motors though. @@WinkysWorkshop
@@robert574 The motor pulley was 2 inch, 4 inch and 5.5 inch pulley. I bought a 5.5 that will run in what was the 2" position. The way I have it figured this will give 1800 at the spindle if I run the motor at 2000 and allow me to run large end mills at 50% (300 at the spindle 750 motor). The rated motor speed is 1120. Plus, I still have the option to mover the belt between the spindle and jack shaft if I need more low end torque or a super low speed.
@@robert574 Where I bought this motor they had the same motor with a gearbox for $35. It was an in line gearbox but I can't remember what the ratio was. I think it was too slow. I've thought about converting my 12" bandsaw to metal and I think the 1120 RPM motor would be ideal but the idea of changing blade all the time stops me. I think if I do anything I'll get a second band saw and keep a metal blade on it.
I’m not a big fan of the recent trend of free stuff from China in CZcams videos. I know all the cool kids are doing it, but to me it smacks of selling out. Sorry if this offends.
No offence whatsoever. I look at it this way, If I was simply doing Vevor reviews just to create content I would agree. I think I have done 5 reviews for Vevor over the last 3 yrs and one for YES welders. In all but 2 reviews I would have bought the product anyway. These two were the Plasma Cutter and Drill Sharpener. The plasma cutter I did not need and the drill sharpener I needed but probably would not have bought if the money was coming out of my pocket. So yeah,... at least with the plasma cutter I "sold out". With the drill sharpener.. I redeemed myself. It's a darn nice drill sharpened and I WOULD buy it with my own money. So the Casters (incredible value) and Motor in the video would have been bought anyway. The way I see it, in most cases, Vevor and YES have simply enabled me to improvement my shop and videos. Things like the drill sharpener and plasma cutter will likely not happen again although... I am thrilled with the sharpener.
Wells Index is the best US made vertical mill in the world IMHO...Great Job Mark!👍✔
I will say, it is quality. Thanks!
Nice addition to the Shop, it will last you a livetime.
Hopefully longer. I'm 67 and take care on my tools :o) - Thanks
I’ve used JB Weld to fill drill marks in cast iron, let it cure then sand it flush. You can still see it since the color doesn’t quite match but it looks a whole lot better than the holes and gives you a smooth surface. Thanks for posting the video!
I'll bet that works great, Thanks.
Nice to see the old girl prettied up and making chips
Yep... I love this mill
Well done Mark, The mill is looking and sounding great. Congratulations on the first chips 👍👍
Thanks! This mill is very high quality and has almost no wear. Mostly it was just filthy dirty and had a terrible paint job... tons of fill.
your video is so inspirational......thank you so much, Paul in Orlando
Thanks Paul. That's great to hear!
Mr Winky, a good video again, viva Vevor 👴🏻👍
Thanks, yeah, Vevor has helped me out a lot. Some items are made well and very low price. The casters are amazing.
Hi Mark, another like new machine from the past for the shop. Looks great.
Yeah... its a nice mill. Thanks
Nice work, Mark!
Thanks Jeff!
Looks great Mark! Will be waiting to see the first project to come off that machine.
Me too
Ha... thanks
Excellent restoration and looks first rate too. Now on to the DRO and a Kurt vise. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
DROs for sure... not sure about Kurt.
As usual, nice work!
Something that you might want to consider doing when you’re working with hot rolled is to use a flap wheel to remove the mill scale in the area that you’ll be cutting. Where the cutter hits the mill scale will leave a wear mark on your HSS cutters. Basically you’ll end up with a dull spot where the blade cut through the scale.
The only HSS I use is on my band saw and drills. Judging by how hard it is to grind off I'd say you are right but I've never noticed and problems... That would take a lot of time to do every time I drill and cut! No disrespect but I'll take the dull tools over grinding. Thanks
What a great series, very enjoyable, a great job the mill looks and sounds really good. 👍
Thanks! Yeah this is a nice mill. Very little wear.
Good rebuild series, another great project.
Thanks, yeah... I've barely used it. I think it's going to be nice.
Beautiful job on the mill and the rolling stand , it really turned out nice !
Thanks John!
That rolling mill is really cool. I like it! Too bad in Florida the greatest altitude difference is from the front of the garage to the back. If i put casters on my mill, it would be sitting in the retention pond a minute later. As is, I have to raise the front nearly two inches higher than the back to get it level in my garage. KY is looking better all the time. Keep up this great series. Don
No offence but I'll take KY over Florida any day. That's a big altitude change in your garage! Ha
@@WinkysWorkshop Ha ha ha... NO offense at all. Just have to learn to live with the realities. Don
@@donsengine3158 Very true.
Great job! Cant wait for the next new old machine!! 😁
That will likely be the Hardinge lathe I bought with my drill press.
Hello Winky, Awesome restoration you performed there, love the color too, those caster wheels excellent, looks so easy to move about when you want to, great video computation, enjoyed it lots, thanks for sharing, cheers from magicbytes 😷
Thanks! Yeah, the wheels are great and cheap too.
That was an impressive series. Your attention to details and workmanship are exemplary. You have given that machine another 100 years minimum to live and be useful. The just don't build them like that any more!
Thank you very much! This is a very nice mill. Very well made and the perfect size for a small shop.
That mill really looks nice, another very interesting series; I look forward to more of it
Its about finished although i need to install DROs and few other small items. Thanks
It looks and works well Winky, good job mate, excellent machine, power down feed will be real handy, i'm pleased with the castors as well, i'm going to get some for my Lathe and Bandsaw.
Thanks! The casters worked very well for me at 1250 lbs. I suspect more would be fine but I have no way of knowing.
Long plumb bob enter punch, clever intuitive technique for fine acuracy. Some of my friends don't know which end of the hammer to hang onto.
Simple and effective. Thanks for the comment.
Beautiful rebuild on the mill, it looks to be a very functional machine. thanks for the great video a very enjoyable re build.
Thanks Mick
On my W-I model 645, I only use the slow power down feed. I think it's a 1.5 thou per spindle revolution.
I was surprised that the C face mount dimensions did not change over all these years, must be just the base mount holes and location relative to the shaft that NEMA changed.
I did put a 1HP 3ph on my lathe (10x24). It had a motor shaft of 7/8". So I removed it, and turned it down to the 14mm of the existing 2 step pulley that came with the lathe. Real odd that it had some metric stuff. The feed screws are all Imperial (1/8", not the expected .1" on the cross and compound, as well the original tail stock). Oh, and the mistake I made when turning down the motor shaft, I left a sharp inside corner edge from the 14mm to 7/8" transition, within a few years a crack developed and the pulley when spinning off. I had to get another motor off eBay. This time the motor shaft was 5/8" so I modified the pulley. Which I figured out the original 14mm hole was not concentric to the V groove, which caused all that vibration to create the crack metal fatigue failure.
I would suggest putting the DRO scale on the front of the table, so you don't limit the rear travel. I ended up mounting a 1" solid square bar along the front edge of the table, recessed down from the table top, the scale mounted to that, it gave me the adjustability. To provide a FOD cover, I put a 2" angle iron mounted to the top of the 1" square bar stock. This prevents accidental hitting of the scale with the vise or rotary table (your next mill accessory). I leave my 12 Inch H/V rotary table on the table all the time, just slide it to the end. It has a 10" 3 jaw chuck mounted on it, so it's very heavy. Seems I'm always doing bolt circles or machining hex on some round bar for a wrench flat. I know you can get a DRO that does bolt circles and other geometry stuff, so maybe a rotab is not needed. But you can also machine arcs.
Looks like there are many copies of the Kurt vise now available. I think a 6" is still the right size for your mill.
That's surprising that the motor shaft broke off. I was wondering if i can squeeze a RDO under the table. There is a fair amount of room under there.
The Wells mill turned out very nice.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed
Always a great show!
Thanks!
The old Rong Fu served you well. Thanks for sharing the upgrades on it. Congratulations on the new mill. Another old iron restoration well done. “I like it “. 👍👍
I agree... the RF30 is not a bad mill. There is a huge quality difference between these two mills BUT the RF30 gets the job done.
I like this Idea because it can be done and still taken apart if need be the side wall can mostly stay intact with a 40 footer and wont look like shipping containers for some one to complain about. It can be insulated !
?
@@WinkysWorkshop sorry this comment and I dont exactly know how but it some how got posted on your channel it was supposed to be posted on a shipping container channel. Cell phone glitch I guess. I was watching your channel recently though.
@@ALSomthin I thought maybe... thanks, not a problem here
@@WinkysWorkshop I do enjoy your channel content though! I used to have an old index mill myself once upon a time.
@@ALSomthin Thanks, it seems to be a very well made mill.
Good rebuild thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Any welding job is much better if the metal is nice and clean, Preparation is the make or break of any job in any case great job. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks. And true about welding. In hindsight I should have welded little triangle gussets in the corners of the wheel brackets to stop the distortion. Fortunately the wheels worked well anyway.
Very nice job 👍. Looks great 👍
Thanks !
Very nice job, as always.
Thanks Mel
Great job Mark, looks really good!
Thanks David, it's a big step up from the RF30 although the RF30 did really well.
Looking good!
It was a lot of work but I agree, thanks!
nice little caster set up :) simple, easy, and does the job. You might want to put gussets on them later, I can see them sagging after a few years. But nicely done
Hopefully they don't sag... but if so I'll reinforce them with gussets. They seem to be very good.
another excellent and enjoyable video
Thanks... a big project too.
Thanks!
Es una de las fresadoras más bonitas que han existido.
.
That’s a great piece of work and an excellent mill!
Thanks Kevin. Yeah, its a good mill. No wear that I can tell
Magnificent restoration on a tremendous machine, can't wait to see the follow up footage. Thankyou.
Thanks Robert. I just bought a 3 axis DRO and Vise and will post a video on Friday where I made a new self ejecting drawbar.
OUTSTANDING.GREAT WORK
Thanks you sir
Wonderful job. Looking forward to projects down the road.
Me too.. Thanks
I think I had that exact same import vise on my mill, then later a drill press. Japanese made, pretty excellent quality...for a drill press vise.
My example had about .020-.025 of jaw lift, and I really had to be careful on setup when it was on my mill. I ended up swapping it for a beat up Bridgeport vise when the local HS got smaller drill presses. The BP vise isn't a whole lot better, but it is easier to tap down square when tight.
Good luck with the rest of the restoration!
Yeah... it's a good drill press vise but definitely not good for a mill. I just bought a new CNC mill vise. It's basicly the same as any other mill vice but has no coolant gutter or mounting lugs. I like it because it because it can be clamped anywhere on the table.
Lovely work..!
Thanks
It sounds and looks beautiful!
Yeah... it purrs. I love this mill.
great series
Thanks!
I have the same Index Model 40 only mine was made in the 1940's. The down feed mechanism is a bit different and mine has the power cross feed for the table. The belts are a pain to change so I resolved the problem with an industrial 90V DC motor with a controller. Belt changes are rare now.
You're right about the belt
Gorgeous mill.
It really a pleasure to use, thanks
love it
Thanks!
another great video,keep them coming wink,thanks for sharing
Thanks Rick
You did a really nice job. Looks great.
Thanks, I've barely used it but I think its going to be a good machine.
Very cool
Thanks
Beauty!!
Thanks, I love this mill.
Beautiful machine
Thanks, I love this mill!
to improve those castors they should have put a worm drive on that red wheel and the mating shaft coming out to the front with a drive socket for a drill. Many European motors have 19mm (about 3/4") shafts.
The worm drive would be nice but they do okay without... just a little slow if you move a machine a lot.
Very cool machine! I wish more were available for us hobbyests. That down feed seems much simpler and more robust than the brideport's.
Interesting. it works great but the speed changing is a little awkward. Thanks
Just ordered the feet! Great deal even if they don't work out for my model 45. Can ALWAYS put casters to use.
I totally agree!
@@WinkysWorkshop: Update: the Vevor castors are installed and work GREAT!
@@tuck1963 Yes i noticed and commented on that. Your mill is larger than mine but if they handle the weight that's great!
buen trabajo amigo eres un MAKINA
.
nice Micky UK
Thanks!
You did a great job on the mill and it's a perfect size for your shop. I always wanted to replace my round column mill for a better one but my wife thinks her car belongs in the garage. Thanks for the video and good luck with the mill.
I have those casters on my welding table..they are good. But take a little effert to get levelers up and down.
Yes they do. I don't mind this on my mill. It will stay put most the time but if I wanted to move it frequently it would be a pain. Can't beat the price!
I sent my quill from my Index 40 to Wells Index and they regrouned my Brown and Sharp 9 to R8. Works great. Also added DRO and X peer feed. I’ll send pics if you like.
Yeah, I decided to keep the B&S #9 taper. A new collet set was available for about $120. R8 would be more convenient but really the only additional tapers I needed are for a boring bar and drill chuck. I found a Morris #2 to B&S for my chuck and found a B&S boring head arbor new. So now I have everything I'll ever need. I did notice the B&S collets are a lot harder to get out but after I figured out how the Wells Index draw bar was supposed to work (and made a nut for the spline) ejecting the taper is super easy. There is another consideration as well. A slower taper on the collet (like the B&S) transfers more clamping force to the end mill. I think they actually hold better. The only negative is they get stuck but the new drawbar address that. Do you have the captive nut well index drawbar?
@@WinkysWorkshop I do have the old drawbar that came with it. Wells Index sent me a new draw bar after they ground the spindle to R8.
@@billparadis8995 Cool... so you have the self ejecting type?
@@WinkysWorkshop I don’t know about it being self ejecting just that it is what came with the mill when I bought it. I never used the B&S#9 collets. Had it ground immediately.
Great video. If the casters will support 2300 lbs I think I will make the brackets like yours for my mill and lathe.
The specs are a little confusing but they imply that they will hold 4400. They do well with 1250 but its hard for me to say how much more they will take.
Well Done Mark, a great outcome. Perhaps with the wheels, make yourself some sort of spanner to crank the wheels instead of having to use your fingers. Regards from Australia.
That's what I was thinking. Just a Y type would work.
I was thinking the same... so far I havent come up with how to make one. With that being said, it not too bad if you only more thing occasionally.
@@WinkysWorkshop I just used a flat screwdriver, like adjusting drum brakes.
@@65cj55 Yes that works
your center idler works differently mine is a flat plate that slides in a groove, same as the motor, that whole top unit is different, even the quill head. My power down feed is totally different, the pulley arrangement on to most of the minor castings are different.
I need to look into when mine was made, somebody said I could call wells and find out. I did find a chart that says it was about 1950 but the casting for the belt guard has a date that says 1955. The manual I have shows your design and mine. I think yours would be easier to move belts on. Interesting about the down feed. What year is yours?
@@WinkysWorkshop April 1943. My motor plate slides with a lever and a stop pawl, open the pawl and the lever moves the motor forward, and the center pulley slides on its own from belt tension
@@cyclebuster Unless I'm wrong on the date on mine then mine is the newer design. The lever on the motor plate would be nice.
You could drill holes in the star adjuster so you can use a tommy bar to raise an lower the casters.
They are really not that hard to adjust... and for the money I can live with it. These things are great.
If you want to keep your old motor, there are outfits that rewind them, and make them virtual new. I have a local shop that does basic motor work, but they have a company they deal with for in depth repairs.
The company I was dealing with rewinds motor but the cost was very high. As cool as the old motor looked I don't think the new one looks too bad and for sure it's working great. Plus it has twice the power... I think 1/2HP i a bit small for this size mill.
Great job Mark. I've really enjoyed watching this restoration series and subbed. Any chance the ARW podcasts will be coming back?
I'm not sure but i suspect not. Harold has had a lot of heath issues and Billy have been occupied at Knoxmakers
Mark I am jealous, and I already have 3 mills. That is certainly a sweet looking mill. I wish I had of known about the Vevor Casters before I paid $60 for the Elephant Casters, I bought for my Antique Champion Blower Camel Back drill press. What is the rating on the casters? Thanks for spending your time making the video for us to enjoy. I have a Vevor mill vice and a Vevor rotary table that I have yet to use but I am sure based on the other items I have bought from Vevor they are good quality.
I think Vevor is hit and miss... the mill table I got was good but had some problems too. The casters are great!
Very nice indeed, what is the color that you used on the mills finish?
Thanks, rustolium smoke gray
What size bar stock did you use for the caster supports - 4" x 1/2"?
Yes, I think 3/8" would have been okay for this mill but I already had the stock.
Where did you get that pan?
The part washing pan? It was for changing oil... I got it in the 1970's.. ha
@@WinkysWorkshop It's in good shape, looks like you bought it recently.
someone just sold a complete 40H near me for $400 with tooling
DANG... that's a good deal! I paid 1000. In hindsight I think that was a little high but I will say, there almost no wear at all.
What was the nameplate rpm of the original motor?
Yes but it is the same RPM as my current motor. However, as you know I an installing a VFD. I was going to put spacers under the motor so I could install a shaft extender and use the original 3 step pulley. Now I think I will use a single groove pulley. If I use the correct size I should be able to eliminate the spacers and be working is a speed range that will well with the motor. Plus I still have 3 step on the spindle pulley I can adjust for extreme slow of fast speeds
If that motor pulley has a 2" for the smallest and an 8" for the largest size that would be a 4:1 reduction and the vfd can do 6:1 so the single pulley should work. @@WinkysWorkshop
When I reduced my woodcutting bandsaw for metal, I changed my mind several times using single ph motors, (two gearboxes and two motors), then bought a 3ph fixed gearbox and motor and a vfd. Then, like an idiot, it occurred to me just to change the pulley on the blade wheel and use a plain 3ph motor with a step pulley to all the existing pulleys. That combination gave me a range of 100 sfpm to 2600 sfpm. And, I have a tach that counts the six spokes on the blade wheel pulley and reads out the blade speed in sfpm using a stored multiplier. It was a learning experience and I enjoyed it. I do have some extra motors though.
@@WinkysWorkshop
@@robert574 The motor pulley was 2 inch, 4 inch and 5.5 inch pulley. I bought a 5.5 that will run in what was the 2" position. The way I have it figured this will give 1800 at the spindle if I run the motor at 2000 and allow me to run large end mills at 50% (300 at the spindle 750 motor). The rated motor speed is 1120. Plus, I still have the option to mover the belt between the spindle and jack shaft if I need more low end torque or a super low speed.
@@robert574 Where I bought this motor they had the same motor with a gearbox for $35. It was an in line gearbox but I can't remember what the ratio was. I think it was too slow. I've thought about converting my 12" bandsaw to metal and I think the 1120 RPM motor would be ideal but the idea of changing blade all the time stops me. I think if I do anything I'll get a second band saw and keep a metal blade on it.
I’m not a big fan of the recent trend of free stuff from China in CZcams videos. I know all the cool kids are doing it, but to me it smacks of selling out. Sorry if this offends.
No offence whatsoever. I look at it this way, If I was simply doing Vevor reviews just to create content I would agree. I think I have done 5 reviews for Vevor over the last 3 yrs and one for YES welders. In all but 2 reviews I would have bought the product anyway. These two were the Plasma Cutter and Drill Sharpener. The plasma cutter I did not need and the drill sharpener I needed but probably would not have bought if the money was coming out of my pocket. So yeah,... at least with the plasma cutter I "sold out". With the drill sharpener.. I redeemed myself. It's a darn nice drill sharpened and I WOULD buy it with my own money.
So the Casters (incredible value) and Motor in the video would have been bought anyway. The way I see it, in most cases, Vevor and YES have simply enabled me to improvement my shop and videos.
Things like the drill sharpener and plasma cutter will likely not happen again although... I am thrilled with the sharpener.
@@WinkysWorkshop I actually purchased their plasma cutter. Haven’t got it going yet.
@@kitmaira It seems to be good but the instructions are terrible. I think the specified air pressure was not correct as well.