Your very funny with your zz zz zzzzz sounds but the axle nut MUST be torque to 162 foot pounds. Also I love how you skipped the step of fully seating the new axle into the differential, arguably the most difficult and important part of this job.
3:01 No doubt that OEM > aftermarket, but this is normal. There is usually nothing except for inward pressure holding the CV tripod into the outer raceway of the inner joint. The GM manual for my Cadillac warns to never pull the CV by the halfshaft or the inboard joint can slide out.
Everything you said is correct. The aftermarket ones just don’t last as long and have a higher probability of failing due to manufacturing or rebuilding. So, if you are ok with doing the job twice or more and using the parts store warranty, we encourage gambling. As for pulling on the half shaft, you are also correct. You could pull the inner assembly out, but if you’re replacing it anyway, does it matter? If you’re not replacing it, as is always the case, take more care in removal to avoid buying parts you didn’t need at the start of the job. Thanks for watching!
Check you owner’s manual for the correct fluid, but it is likely you will want gear oil for a manual (like the one in the video) or automatic transmission fluid for an automatic. Glad you enjoyed it!
Depends on many factors, check the owners manual. If you don't have an owners manual, you might be able to find one online. For the subaru in this video it was gear oil (sometimes referred to as diff oil).
2012. And yes, the process for Subaru axle swaps has basically been the same for years. The only difference we’re aware of, is that some older models may be removed more easily by disconnecting the lower ball joint instead of the lower strut mounts. Some Subarus also had a female end on the transmission side of the axle. If that is the case, it will have a pin to secure it to the male output shaft. Best thing to do is look underneath and give it a go. Subarus are insanely easy to repair.
@@NiceGuysGASS ok. Thank you. There are two types of pins. They differ by length. 40-45mm. So i have one that is 40. But as i see i need the 45 type. When i hammered it in there was extra space. 45 will fit perfectly. Can i drive with 40 until i buy one that is 45?
Any tips for how to get the camber bolt and lower bolt back in? Which way to turn the wheels? Unhook the arm that links strut to steering rack? I can't get the hub holes to line back up to the strut holes 5:47
That seems to be an interesting problem. Don’t remove any additional bolts or you will probably make the problem worse. If the holes won’t line up vertically, try using a jack under the lower control arm at the ball joint. Typically, it seems to be easier to get non-cammed bolt in first (the lower one). The strut should turn freely to an extent, so you can move it around a bit. Make sure the axle is fully seated at the transmission and that it has some play on the hub side. If it gets bound up, the job is infinitely harder. It will take some finagaling if you’re not familiar with the process. Also, I hope this is a similar year Subaru, because the replacement process on an older car is very different.
@@NiceGuysGASSit's a 2016 Outback. Major difference I see is there is an arm that links the strut (just below the coil) to a bar near the steering arm. This linkage makes the strut pop to the left or to the right and it's difficult to get it to hold in the middle I was able to get the lower bolt lined up and installed but I can't tilt the hub assembly forward to get the camber bolt to line up. I'll try a jack under the ball joint next. Thanks for the reply and the extra pointers!!
Easiest instruction video I’ve ever seen… beautiful
Goal….achieved!
Dont forget to grease the seal before reinstalling, will extend the life of the seal opposed to a dry seal.
Not a bad idea!
No gear oil to worry about, I don't think it's that full. Great video!
Thanks!
So none of the gear oil will leaked out? I’m only doing passenger side.
Thanks for this. The place I went to wanted 1300 to do this to both sides.
Glad it worked out for you. It’s not too bad a job, but labor rates are insane these days!!!
worth every penny as long as the mechanic is not manic
Your very funny with your zz zz zzzzz sounds but the axle nut MUST be torque to 162 foot pounds. Also I love how you skipped the step of fully seating the new axle into the differential, arguably the most difficult and important part of this job.
Hey! Thanks for reminding us! We’ll make sure we don’t miss filming any more important steps!!
In addition to the 162 lb/ft on the axle nut, the new axle should’ve come with a new axle nut. Never reuse an old axle nut.
what happens if you don't get the 162 ft/lbs@@seanhoward8025
@@seanhoward8025 if you swap the left and right sides you can usually get a nice fresh spot to use the punch on, but same side, yes you cannot reuse
I can hear the sarcasm through the words you create on the screen.
did it in half the tiime taking out thre tire rod joint! master!
Excellent work!
Beautiful. About to change them this weekend
Let us know how it goes!
@@NiceGuysGASS wish me luck haha perfect video. Very much appreciated
3:01 No doubt that OEM > aftermarket, but this is normal. There is usually nothing except for inward pressure holding the CV tripod into the outer raceway of the inner joint. The GM manual for my Cadillac warns to never pull the CV by the halfshaft or the inboard joint can slide out.
Everything you said is correct. The aftermarket ones just don’t last as long and have a higher probability of failing due to manufacturing or rebuilding. So, if you are ok with doing the job twice or more and using the parts store warranty, we encourage gambling.
As for pulling on the half shaft, you are also correct. You could pull the inner assembly out, but if you’re replacing it anyway, does it matter? If you’re not replacing it, as is always the case, take more care in removal to avoid buying parts you didn’t need at the start of the job. Thanks for watching!
@@NiceGuysGASS Thank YOU for the video!
Just remove the wheel hubs and replace them, leave the camber bolts in place to avoid paying for an alignment job.
Probably not the way we would recommend, especially to just save less than $100, but to each their own.
love this video !
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you!
Absolutely! Best of luck!
Great video. Right to the point! Would I need to add more transmission fluid if some leaks out?
Check you owner’s manual for the correct fluid, but it is likely you will want gear oil for a manual (like the one in the video) or automatic transmission fluid for an automatic. Glad you enjoyed it!
@@NiceGuysGASS is it diff oil or transmission oil?
Depends on many factors, check the owners manual. If you don't have an owners manual, you might be able to find one online. For the subaru in this video it was gear oil (sometimes referred to as diff oil).
what year is the subaru u are working on,?? and is a 2004 impreza ts 2.5 the same process? or similar??
2012. And yes, the process for Subaru axle swaps has basically been the same for years. The only difference we’re aware of, is that some older models may be removed more easily by disconnecting the lower ball joint instead of the lower strut mounts. Some Subarus also had a female end on the transmission side of the axle. If that is the case, it will have a pin to secure it to the male output shaft.
Best thing to do is look underneath and give it a go. Subarus are insanely easy to repair.
Please, what is the difference between the front axles and the drive shaft?
The front axles run the front two wheels. The driveshaft connects the transmission to the rear differential and rear axles (wheels).
Thanks Nice Guys! @@NiceGuysGASS
Glad to help!
What are the consequences driving without a pin?
Which pin? Cotter pin? Roll pin? Most pins are $0.10 safety measures to ensure things don’t fall off.
@@NiceGuysGASS roll in in cv axle
If your car had one, you need to replace it. It keeps the cv axle from coming out
@@NiceGuysGASS ok. Thank you. There are two types of pins. They differ by length. 40-45mm. So i have one that is 40. But as i see i need the 45 type. When i hammered it in there was extra space. 45 will fit perfectly. Can i drive with 40 until i buy one that is 45?
Scared me with the gear oil lol
Oops
Any tips for how to get the camber bolt and lower bolt back in? Which way to turn the wheels? Unhook the arm that links strut to steering rack? I can't get the hub holes to line back up to the strut holes 5:47
That seems to be an interesting problem. Don’t remove any additional bolts or you will probably make the problem worse.
If the holes won’t line up vertically, try using a jack under the lower control arm at the ball joint.
Typically, it seems to be easier to get non-cammed bolt in first (the lower one).
The strut should turn freely to an extent, so you can move it around a bit.
Make sure the axle is fully seated at the transmission and that it has some play on the hub side. If it gets bound up, the job is infinitely harder.
It will take some finagaling if you’re not familiar with the process. Also, I hope this is a similar year Subaru, because the replacement process on an older car is very different.
@@NiceGuysGASSit's a 2016 Outback. Major difference I see is there is an arm that links the strut (just below the coil) to a bar near the steering arm. This linkage makes the strut pop to the left or to the right and it's difficult to get it to hold in the middle
I was able to get the lower bolt lined up and installed but I can't tilt the hub assembly forward to get the camber bolt to line up. I'll try a jack under the ball joint next.
Thanks for the reply and the extra pointers!!