How to measure and adjust front end wheel alignment
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- A straight forward tutorial to give you the basics for measuring and adjusting front end wheel alignment on our classic mini that will hopefully give you a better understanding of what to do for a home alignment.
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A couple of observations general rule is front wheel drive should be set toe out and rear wheel drive toe in. Also adjusting the track on one side only will achieve the correct toe angle but your ackerman/thrust steering angle will be out and you will have more degrees lock on one side compared to the other and the steering wheel will be off centre. Tracking should be adjusted equally either side. Great DIY method of checking tracking and informative video as always.
Hello . I used your method today and it worked a treat . I didn't have any string. I used 9 pound fishing line which allowed accurate measurements and slid easily during set up . I also saw a tip from Classic Diy mini guy . About centering the rack using the hole revealed when the floor rack grommet and rack filler stopper was removed . This was really useful for locking the rack . Many thanks Leigh
Delighted it helped you Leigh, some times the simplest tricks are the best and thanks for sharing the trick with locking the rack
If you don't know the thread pitch you can loosen the locking nut and put it back loosely and after slackening off the rod measure the final gap or move it out the required distance to check the other way round.
Great Idea Tony and a great addition thanks for sharing 👍👍
Great stuff! Just what I was looking for 👍 I’d be interested in a more in depth video talking about castor
Hi Matt, Sure we will definitely do a bigger video looking at caster camber and toe and there effects on handling.
@@HREIRL I’ve just got the adjustable rear brackets that I need to fit and then check the setup for. I also have the front lower camber arms to go on at some point.
Simplicity is the best policy. Well done lads top work. Informative and creative as all ways. 👍
Thanks Gary delighted you enjoyed it
Wonderful explanation of this process. Great job! Subscribed.
Thanks Cole 👍
Thank you video has saved a shed load of hassle. Just changed my track rod ends and ended up with massive toe in . Watch this video now 1mm toe in on both sides , thanks
delighted it was helpfull pal 👍
Just subscribed on recommendation from Keith at Classic Mini Workshop. As per another comment here I would also be interested in a more in depth video on castor. Great selection of videos on your channel. Thanks.
Hi Steve thanks for popping over we are glad to have you here. I have some more suspension alignment videos coming up very shortly so hopefully that will cover that for you 👍
Great video.
Once you have the parallel strings set up, have you thought of removing the road wheel and using an axle-stand under the lower ball joint to maintain the suspension in the loaded state? This would allow you to adjust the track-rod end and check toe without having to put the wheel back on.
Sure David that would work. The only slight draw back to doing it that way is you only have the with of the Disk to measure the difference. If you measured very actually it would be successful. Like every thing it’s a pay off 👍
Thanks a million. Great video
Your welcome Harry
Really great and informative video Paul...
Thanks man delighted you like the videos
Super simple explanation. Keep them coming! Too stuff
Thanks for the compliment and your subscription 👍
Glady, well deserved!!
Yes please to a more in depth video. What about castor, camber and bump steer as well? Thanks.
This is very much in the pipe line buddy and we should have something up really shortly
Nice video. Please do a video on the modified track rod ends on your car.
Hi Dion, I will include some information in an upcoming video 👍
2:49 You mention that you prefer either parallel or 1mm of toe-in for road cars. When I was a kid, the rule we all got taught was toe-in for RWD (as the front wheels are essentially drag on the front suspension) and toe-out for FWD, as putting power through the front wheels would pull the front suspension into its rubber bushes and straighten the wheels up when under load. (Of course, this won't apply if you're using rose joints.) Your thoughts?
You are most correct generally I do just set them up straight ahead but from time to time I find on a car with a lot of torque steer on the road a tiny touch toe in settles them down and makes them more predictable
I had the same thought, either make them dead ahead or slight toe out.
Nicely explained 👍👍👍
Thank you 👍🏻
Nice one (subscribed)
Thanks Martin welcome to the Channel 👍
Excellent,,,,,
Many many thanks glad you enjoyed :)
Great video. Great channel actually, both video and clear description are excellent. As already said by smbd else in the comments, it would be nice to have more info on mod track rod ends.
Hi thanks for the lovely comments. I will make sure to do a video in the near future explaining the track rod ends and other suspension setup
@@HREIRL I just posted your channel in our Classic Mini club in Athens. I'm sure there will be some enthusiasts watching your videos the coming days :)
Great video (just saw it) and a simple way of doing the alignment. Thanks. Just a brief thought and possibly a stupid question: How do you make sure that the front wheels are straight ahead, i.e. the steering wheel is in the dead center? The wheels could have different settings as well...
Hi Rolf, unfortunately this was one of my first video and I forgot to mention that I lock the steering wheel with a steering lock off the seat
@@HREIRL Thanks. Got it! The last question, I promise :-) - How do you know that the wheels are pointing straight ahead before the adjustment? What I mean is ("I" is a wheel:-) ): "I" and "I", not "/" and "/", or "\" and "\"? We are talking about millimeters here...
Thanks btw for the new clutch video.
Hi, I guess you can adjust the track rod end at the other end too? rather than the wheel side, the engine side?
Are they your own track rod end design? I’d like to see how you made those 😉
Great vid!
They sure friend, I will do a Video on them in the near future 👍👍
Had to have a little re-cap on the initial set up..... just setting up the suspension before it hits the road.
How do you centre the rack? Drill bit throught the plug hole?
3:40 Just looking through your old video's.................did i say old lol. Oh rose joints. What advantages over a normal track rod end??
for a race car they are Paul. but I would not recommend them for a road going car as they are not very well shielded against the ingress of dust 👍
I think I must be a bit thick but what are the notches in the doweling for as you don't seem to use them in the process?
Midge I didn't mention it in the video but there what the string sits in, It makes sure the string is equally distance apart front and back
Hi Paul ! Could I just get identification on the wheel arches and the wheels you fitted on the pitcher .
Hi Adrian, The wheel arches are Group 2 and we have fitted Minispares 13X5.5
Hows does 1mm of track rod change result in 1mm at the rim? Surely there is difference in track rod connection from hub pivot vs the rim edge to hub pivot? I'd think just trial and error until you get what you want is best option.
The thread pitch of the track rod I am using is M12x1mm Turing the track rod one revolution will move the wheel from its relative position 1mm because the track rod is in the same plain as the wheel the movement is relative.
Just tried this, works great but the standard track road is about 4,2mm on the rim for every rotation with standard track road thread. But yes it works and great explanation, thanks!