Mistakes You Might Be Making With Your Classic Mini
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- This video is a quick list of things we have noticed are often misunderstood or done "wrong" on a mini.
Link to the video about setting up and adjusting rear brakes • How to Service and Adj...
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Awesome tips and super jelly of the new shop. Stay safe guys.
Can’t express how much this channel hás helped me with my Mini. Thanks so much🙌🏻
You only do mini,s i was a mechanic 🧰 on mini,s for a long time in Australia 🇦🇺 you are 100/% spot on. 🍻
did my apprenticeship on mini's in the 1970,s...brought back good memories:) and also nice to see good advice.
i remember every time we replaced a water pump..we swapped the bypass hose for thick good quality heater hose
Great video! Rare too see a really informative car video without click bait :-)
I actually didn't know about the oil in the carburettor, so on one of the first trips after nut&bolt restore of my MK1 Cooper S, it died and wouldn't start again! Towed it home and had no idea what was wrong, until my old man asked if I remembered the oil! The piston was stuck in fully open... :-)
And the radiator fan is also weird, checked it multiple times - there are so many strange things on a mini - but it is SO fun to drive!
Love the story about the dashpot fluid. Cheers
Good to see you guys back, being busy is a good complaint. Stay safe👍
Thanks, you too
Another reason also to use mineral oil is that semi or full synthetic oil dissolves cupper brass and bronze. You don't want those rings in your gearbox to dissovle, neither do you want to dissovle the bushes from the conrod's.
Another suggestion:
Before even trying to tune the engine make sure the ring around the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe is closed and not leaking.
If you have leakage here you will never be able to tune the engine good. After this step please set the valve clearances properly.
When you have this completed then you can set / tune the ignition timing, every attempt before making sure the exhaust is closed and the valves are correct are a waste of time for these things will affect the timing of your engine.
Great point!
Nice work guys, I’m so impressed by all your work and videos. Rock on
Thanks Mark! Means a lot coming from you. Stay safe and hope to see you soon
Totally rebuilt my mini Piccadilly to factory spec. Followed most of your videos, been a great help and still picking up tips' 🤯just Learned iv put the fan on the wrong way and using the wrong oil. Thanks and keep posting. Ed ...UK
Thanks for the kind words 🙏
All of the things you mentioned are important things to mention! Well said 👍
Mate those tips are brilliant thanks. Just starting to get mine back on the road so this info really helpful ta
i always used light sewing machine oil in my SU carb when i owned a mini
engine oil makes the carb slow to respond
Nice info. Congratulations on the new shop! Stay safe
Thanks, that's really awesome tips!
You always do a good job. It's so cool
This takes me back, and I have a tip of my own: If ever I had to put a pint (half litre) of oil into my 1961 Mini (original Castrol GTX 20W-50 in them days), I always found there was (more than) enough oil left in the can to dribble into the dashpot and top-up the damper.
Convenient!
a lot of good tips ! be safe guys during this confinement.
You too Benoit!
Awesome video guys some cracking tips there 👍 love the new shop
Thank you very much
just found this channel and it is amazing
Great tips, thanks Phil!
thanks for all these tips🙂
Great tips, your videos are very informative and detailed. Thank you for making them. Fortunately I am in essential for keeping society safe, so I am still working, but when I am off, my time is spent tinkering on our 63 Super Delux. Be safe and stay healthy.
Thanks Doug for your work, and for the comment. Cheers!
At the moment I am restoring a mini, this video is again a nice collection of problems that I can avoid.
Now it seems interesting to get some assembly and disassembly tips. I just removed my subframes but I'm a bit stuck at the front suspension without having to buy too many special tools, if possible.
I've just replaced the front cones and shocks on my 1971 clubman. You'll need to make a cone compressor if you don't have one. I'll send you a link for a guide on making them if you need.
Missed these vids, good luck with the new shop guys!
Thanks!
Thanks guys love 💓 you’re wonderful work from Melbourne Australia. 🥂🍾
Cheers! Thx for the comment
Hi guys!!! Thanks for all the tips, cheers from France.👍
Cheers Rémi
Love these videos! Can you please possibly do one about installing racing harnesses?
Hi bro great videos. I was wondering if you take the distributor out to clean it and you've moved the car but want to put the distributor back in how to set it up that the timing a correct.
nice! cool hoodie!
I remember checking my dash pot oil as my accelarate wasn,t responding to good, had ran out of sewing machine oil , and even 3in1 oil, all i had left was Plus Gas which was a clear like water penetrating oil , so i filled it with that , to get me 2miles back to the garage i worked in , the acceleration was phenominal, only problem when i went back out 4hrs. later it had all leaked out onto ground.also not recommended for rubber diaphram in carb. PS, tip if you replace diaphragm when tightening down outer casing it can jamb the piston up, as you tighten up the casing screws, keep flipping the piston up and down to help centralise it ,accesed where the air filter is located, if you need to adjust it a tap on one side or the other with the heel of your screwdriver does the trick, until you tighten up the screws.
Thanks for sharing that advice, Douglas. Yeah almost any fluid with the right viscosity can do the trick in a pinch. Not ideal is something that isn't safe for rubber :)
Just in case: 20W50 oil for manual gearboxes. Automatic ones need different specification
10W40 MA2 is usually the best thing for an automatic. The Automatic Mini Register has a great forum with lots of useful information.
doesnt penrite do a full zinc 20w-60 version> which I heard was really good also.
@@mini1293blue I used to run 20W50 on my automatic Mini, but it was horrible to drive when cold, so I returned to 10W40, and it runs much better now
I grew up with SU carbs with dash pots, we used to fill that dash pot with redex back in the day that redex was sold in “shots” on the forecourt.
In the old days in cars with SUV Carbs we used stp bicycle chain oil, works a treat!
Dude, you scared the ?#%! out of me with your pack up video. I really enjoy your videos and am glad all is well and you moved to a bigger and better shop. What part of the down did you move to? Great video, by the way.
Thanks for the coments.. I have a automatic mini rover .. What kind of oil you recomend?? And please make a video or comments about that engines and gearbirx.. Thanks
Is the automatic transmission on a 998 reliable? What oil do you recommend for this automatic transmission?
Is it worth upgrading front brakes even if it already has disc brakes?
Really helpful. Everything said is spot on. Can I get a job there?????
😂
I think the first mistake you can make is to buy one in the first place. Just kidding. I miss mine a lot even if it was troublesome. Great video once again
Awesome videos!
Cheers
Would you sometime make a video on light bar or foglight rack installation. Merci
3in1 oil works well in the dashpot
Good video.... Saludos desde chile
I resently bought a mini and i was wondering what kind of mods i should do to maki ik handle better? I love the videos keep it up. 👌
Thanks, in congrats on the mini. You might want to check out our video on suspension upgrades (edit for typo)
Do you guys work on other British cars with SUs? Such as 1972 MGB GTs?
Lovely!
Hello , I have an question about the cil . by the brakes. I have lot of problems how you mount the clip on this brakecilinder. There is think a special trick for this . Please help me how i must do this correctly. Thanks a lot.
Phil
Like the 7 tips, Always something to learn.
Got the '69 countryman, licensed and some short road trips to find out what I may have missed.
I have the remote shifter with the 4 ea. vertical bolts. do you have the plastic cups? These may be worn but something I missed.Seems to shift ok , does not jump out of gear so hoping trans ok.Would like to get to Van to have a good inspection now that the virus is tailing down......
Hey Fred, sounds like a good time. We don't have those plastic cups but they can probably be sourced from Hunter's Classics or Mini Spares. Please send us an email if you'd like to schedule an inspection.
A video on that yellow mini build please 🙌🏿
We would always use Australian-made Penrite oil in these A Series engines as well as the B Series lumps because of the added zinc content. Dash-pot oil...same thing as they did that too. Just topped up the dash pots on the four Stromberg carburettors hanging off my V12 lump as these and SU’s always need to be regularly checked for dashpot oil in my experience with classic British tin. Interesting tip about the engine fan as that used to pop up quite a bit. If the Brits were a bit more like ze Germans when they built ze cars...they would have made the fan so it could only be fitted to the hub one way! Bless their hearts!
I live in Australia and have owned 3 Mini's, always used Singer sewing machine oil in the dashpot without a problem.
Too cool. Need to give that a try
Really good info. Can you please tell me what paint shade is on the green mini on the hoist in the background? Is it porcelain green, or a non-BMC colour? Thanks.
it looks like BMC ALMOND GREEN LIKE THE 1964 COOPERS CAME IN WITH OLD ENGLISH WHITE ROOFS.
Cool vid👍is the new workshop complete now?
Hey Steveston, love you work, its inspiring me with my build. I noticed you made your build videos private! Can you do a tutorial on how to make/mount the dash where it was kind of between the top rail and the crash bar? I think it had some kind of bent metal to mount it behind the bars? It's by far the most elegant full dash without the horrible top mounted dash pad I've ever seen. I know you touched on it in your build series and wanted to reference that video but now can't!
Thanks, it actually mounts like many of the factory dashboards and aftermarket dashboards out there. The metal brackets are pulled tight against the backs of the dash rails
Hey man! What do you think about fiber glass front end?
So you guys are a shop that works on minis. Can you tell me what’s the address? I Would like a new engine for my mini this coming Christmas. I have an 850 but I want a 1275 now. How much would I need to save for a project like that? Thanks.
My antenna is under the mud guard the painter has removed it and fixed it and just let it hang under the mud guard how do I remove it and fix it on the panel?
Hello Just following your channel I think it's very educational thank you how can I get ahold of you guys for a question On an ERA Mini
Are you happy with a 2 post lift for the minis? I was considering one, but worried that the sills might not take the weight, especially UK cars.
Works fine when the pads are positioned correctly
What do you think about oils with Molybden? Description is saying that it helps to reduce friction better than Zinc. Thx!
I think that if the friction modifiers are too good the ball bearings won't spin and you'll end up with flat spots, also Molybdenum is very expensive often it will only be a tiny amount, or they will trick people with the label saying molly or some other modification of the name so it doesn't have to contain any Molybdenum at all! Zinc actually sticks to the steel through magnetic attraction, it's softer than the steel so it prevents the parts from damaging each other. CL-4 Diesel oil has lots of ZDDP A.K.A zinc, plenty enough for mini engines.
Great advice, although I would caveat that when choosing oil viscosity you might want to consider the climate the vehicle is to be used in. 20w/50 works for most but if it's predominantly cold climate you might want to consider 10w/40
True 👍👍
I recently bought a classic mini and I was told to use 20w40? Can anybody help me out
@@rickuscronje821 20w40 is not a very common grade of oil. Have a look in the handbook for the car. It should say what oil to use depending on the climate
@@classicminiworkshop I like n South Africa so it can get pretty hot here but I'll take a look, thanks
Hi Steve, I have just bought a 1972 Mini 1275 GT. The oil is new but is a 10W40, I believe synthetic. I will change to the mineral oil 20W50 that you suggest in one of your videos. Can I just change it without any kind of engine clean process? Thanks.
Yeah should be fine
All right.....I'm getting a little desperate. Any body know a reputable body shop to get some panel work done?
ive settled on 20w50 for the dashpot on my fast road car
Let's say your dashpots were hungry and you decided to give them some dinner. How would you know when they were full?
Side note: thanks for the vid, awesome having your content back again guys.
The mini was introduced into Australia in the early 1960s, having been available in England since about 1958. It ran on the road along with other Austin and Morris cars which used the A series engine block. Consequently it wast uncommon for folk to fit, accidentally or not, the fan from one of these front mount radiators to a mini, the early fans were metal not moulded plastic and all looked similar, thus the mistake was hard to detect, especially for non-car folk. A common refrain was " you need a blower not a sucker".
Stavros of the Antipodes
1959 not 58
Where is your shop located?
Hello, I’m just wondering if I’ve got a 3.5 inch flare and the front, and a 3.25 inch flare for the rear what spacers do you recommend?
It's not a question that has an answer without knowing the wheel size and offset or tire. But we generally don't recommend spacers at all for a number of reasons -- low offset wheels are better if you just want the wide look.
@@Stevestonmotorco my tires are 13" but im wondering how you would offset it without using spacers... sorry but im new to classic mini's and im unsure of the wheel offset. All I know is that they are Sportpack Wheel (Dont know if that helps)
do you have a video on a proper way to drive a MINI. I know driving is a normal thing and everyone knows it but I'm sure there are some do's & don'ts when you're driving in a classic MINI. Please share. Thanks
Mate, i live in Sicily and until now i used a 15w50 semi-synt, in your opinion is correct?
Thanks for your help
It depends on the additives. The weight should be fine but make sure there's nothing in their that might affect the brass bushings.
Stevestonmotorco Okay, i check it when i can.
It’a a 998 with Stage One kit.
Should I also use mineral oil if I have a 2011 mini (not s model) or does that only go for the classic minis?
go with the manifacturers specifications. Classic mini's = mineral oil's
Niels_H1991 got it! Thanks for the help
@@eddysantoyo8982 You own a BMW, not a Mini, lol.
doesn't mineral oil thins more with heat and synthetic stays the same? so basically 20w50 min and 10w40 synth are very similar after a while. also thinner oil is better for starting up the engine.
Synthetic is overall better for most cars, of course, but not for the mini. Its lubricating properties allow too much slip for parts of the transmission to work properly.
Edit for *it's
Can you lift from the skid plate/ sumpguard?
No. Most will break/bend and the force of lifting the car will be put through the engine mounts, which is not a great idea. And if the sump guard breaks, the jack may damage the sump if the car falls on it.
I find your videos not only super entertaining, but some excellent knowledge…thank you!!
Thinking to buy its a bit crashed but probably cheap and there are not many in my country and i have my own shop will take may time
Yeah. I broke a wheel nut a few months ago. Luckily it was pretty easy to source a new one. How do we learn? By breaking the cars we love.
Shop walk around please ! New shop⁉️
Nice to see some Americans and young Americans at that loving our beloved mini
Cheers. Canadians* though ;)
@@Stevestonmotorco ooh man sorry lads, top channel. I'm looking for a 80s to 90s mini to deseem and maybe a 3 inch roof chop, de-bumpered and moulded body kit with door and boot handles shaved. Just gotta find a decent place to work from.
I've just rebuilt a 68 mk2, and wondered why the rear brakes aren't operating equally.....
I guess I'll be checking the shoes then...... many thanks....
Cheers. You could also double check that they are adjusted correctly after putting the drum back on.
How much oil should there in the dust cap?
Dash pot? We usually leave a half inch or so to spare with the plunger out. Any more and it tends to make a mess when putting the plunger in or taking hard turns.
is it possible to change classic mini manual into automatic?
I would trade you my automatic with a 998 for your manual, I just bought it so I don’t know how reliable they are, I think manual is more fun
after you said non synthetic oil 20w-50 i went to the car so see what i had put on the car.... thank god it was non synthetic only have them for 1000km
Note on fans, using an inline fan on a mini you MUST fit it backwards to convention in other words listen to what is being said about the aerofoil angle and shape and not the writing on the fan... of course if you have the correct fan ihe writing will be correct.
I have used olive oils in my dash pot all fine
You look like the singer from maroon 5 😀
What If you have no sycros?
Castrol 20w50 Classic now.
great ! but note that turning the fan will not change the direction of the air flux !
It absolutely will
Edit: it changes how efficiently the air will move dramatically
Flipping the fan doesn't turn a "pusher" in to a "puller", just to be clear. The plastic fans have an aerofoil (wing) cross section that will be trying to "fly" backwards if you put it on the wrong way round - the fatter edge faces the direction of travel, just like a plane wing.
There are many more oil shearing, sliding surfaces in the transmission, that's what really does for synthetics, shortening its service life. Another factor with using modern oils (with detergents 'n other emissions black magic) can be hardening of oil seals. Motorbikes have wet clutches which requires compromises with lubrication your Mini doesn't (unless it's an auto, but you could still find the oil's just too slippy). Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates or ZDDP is the actual name of the elixir of life for yer Mini.
The factory fitted SU carb had its needle selected to run with the same oil as the engine, so that should give the best results if it's still factory spec. The function of an "accelerator pump" on multi jet carbs is entirely down to the oil viscosity in an SU - That's also why pumping a Mini's throttle pedal for starting is a total waste of time. If there's no damping (because no oil or the cap's unscrewed) you get carb piston "flutter" where inertia causes the piston to be thrown higher than suction chamber pressure will sustain against the spring, so it falls, then raises again, the spring starts to resonate......and results in fuel starvation.
If the radiator's one of BL's finest, there's a bar inside the filler neck to tell you how much to fill it. Overfilling is likely to result in losing a bit more coolant than ideal 'cos while the pressure cap's not sealing there's no pressure to raise the boiling point.
Hubnut torque only applies to taper rollers as fitted with disc brakes. It's next to impossible to overtighten them, but you'd be well advised to find out about the split taper washer 'n how to stop it doin' what it's supposed to until the nut's tightened fully & finally, to fit the split pin.
Wheel nut torque will depend on your wheel's fitment - Tube nuts, taper angles....
...and brake shoe leading edge is best understood in reference to wheel rotation - the shoes themselves are supposed to provide most of the braking effort, so it's best not to get it wrong.
mistakes we see at the shop; old, hard tires, stainless steel bolts, omg wrong bolts screwing up threads, not enough thread for nyloc nuts, putting the old part in the new box!
Haha, can relate. Cheers
I want a minicooper
When I bought my midget, I cheated out on oil (since it was a shitty 1500 one anyways) and didn’t get the high zinc one. Above that, when I was trying to start it, I cranked the engine for well over 5 seconds each time for about 100 times (because proper oil delivery doesn’t come when cranking the engine, so it became a metal to metal contact after 5 seconds) and ruined my cam and lifter in 3 months. Misfired and managed to run on 1.5 cylinders and then later locked up.
Ahhh so 10 ugga duggas instead of 5 on the axle nut. Good to know.
Hahaha, yes that works
Are you guys ok? We miss you.
Question what would be the best engine to swap in to a mini that's not a honda
1.0 L Ford Ecoboost
@@Stevestonmotorco I can see a large potential on that particular engine, maybe some brit starts to sell a Plug n Play kit (or a cheap ECU) some time soon...
4age twin cam 16 valve. Not powerful to be unwieldy but still be a lot of fun.
@@Stevestonmotorco have you guys done an Ecoboost swap yet? Looking at options for my Mini right now.
@@KevinBuckham1 ecoboost ecu n loom here in the uk is really expensive irrc bout £2k or maybe more
specialist components do them irrc.....not 100% tho
Ive got a mini and my main problem is she drives down the street then cuts out and wont start again for another 2 hours
Is your choke stuck open?
Convex. ;-)
I saw the thumbnail with the axle nut on it and knew I had to watch. No one ever believed me when I told them I torque it to 160 pounds but looks like I was even on the conservative end of the spectrum! Thanks for putting my mind at rest!
It does seem like an outrageous number, doesn't it ;)
WTF? Turning a fan around does not change whether it sucks or blows. The Mini used two different fans sucky ones and blowing ones.
It affects efficiency, not direction
Oooo solid disc's on the front! Lol! Least it's not drums
😁hi