How To: Upgrade Suspension On A Classic Mini Clubman Estate
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- In this how to we take you through upgrading your front and back suspension on a Classic Mini Clubman Estate.
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Bro the mounting brackets are genius 😢 I'll go cardboard aided design and get them made ❤ so simple, my mind is in less of a mist about the plan for my suspension... thanks mate
If you install adjustable suspension is a must to use 4 scales, one for each wheel, to make a perfect tuning.
You can check each corner height but you need a perfect distribution of corner weight.
Great video you make it look very easy which I know it’s not cuz I have all kinds of nightmares just doing basic jobs on mine 😆😆
your to kind. practice makes perfect
Coil overs on a mini, now that's great, and so easy. Great job
Thanks mans glad you enjoyed 👍
I have only just started watching your channel i must say its brilliant really enjoy it you are very informative keep it up buddy 👍
Thanks David and you are welcome to the channel cheers for stoping by 👍
Always cones for me! Also, the front subframe of the Mini is not designed to receive all the stress of both suspension and shock absorber at that same tiny point...
Hi Robin, Cones are very defiantly a brilliant suspension setup, coil over has its place as well. This customer is a fan of modifying his Mini and this is a modification he was interested in trying. Regarding your point about the structure of the mini not being designed to receive all of the load at the same point. this has been well catered for by this kit by the very beefe new top mounts designed by this after market kit. I have use this kit in race application where the cornering stress are much in excess of any experienced in normal road use and it has performed with out fault 👍
I do agree Robin!
Imho there should at least be a reinforcement weld on plate behind the front top mount, or an angled plate on the inside on the crossmember (where the suspension towers on the subframe is attached to) for the two extra screws on top.
Also: the weakest point at the back is now the stub shaft, and neither this one was designed to take the whole weight and force/load of the vehicle.
If you are after comfort the wet suspension is the way to go (but getting more and more rare), you can improve handling with rollbars and different shocks/dampers on both wet and dry suspension.
This kit shown looks nice and I guess it fits well for tarmac and some track days.
Thanks to HREIRL for sharing!
Great informative channel, top class video production 👌
Hay Jess thanks for the lovely comments appreciate you stopping by 👍
brilliant vid thank you. got mine in box waiting to go.
Can you mix and match, i would want to run coilovers at the front but keep the rubber cones at the back. Reason being i have a tow bar on my mini so the weigh on the rear end changes depending on whether im towing or not so need that progressive rate the cones give on the back but i want the coilovers on the front for that ease of maintenance plus theybseem so much more advanced as a suspension system over the conventional mini setup. Thanks for the great video!
Very interesting and informative as usual. Isn't it so much easier to work on a clean car that hasn't had many miles of road dirt built up on it?
"Broom Cooling" technology.
An American style Broom No less seemingly the only to hold a carbon fibre Bonnet open
Loving this channel ❤ dident even know that was an option 👏
Thanks Phillip cheers for stopping by the workshop with us 👍
Awesome work! Thanks for the content!
Great video lads 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
🤣🤣🤣🤣those spanners at the beginning
Like the vids. I notice this van has rear disk brakes. How about a rear disk brake conversion video.....
Ya defiantly I don't have that car anymore but as soon as we have another car in for brake conversion I will most defiantly do a video on it great idea 👍
Excellent video. 😅
Hey Mini Guru: I have a 1975 Mk3 RHD from New Zealand, here in California. Just powder coated and beefed up both sub-frames, put in a nasty 1380, and 5 speed. Took out the rubber cones, and went to the red springs from 7ENT with High/Lows. BUT..... once they are installed, and I try to back the nut off and lower the high/lows & springs down for the normal ride height..... the springs and trumpets flop around badly / wildly in the tower..... and if I go over a bump, the springs may not land back in place..... but land cocked off to the side in the tower. This could damage the tower, the tower centering lip, or change the ride. It seems like the tower should have a stiff foam insert, with a slippery cylinder like sleeve that will keep the spring firmly in place..... under pressure, or not. Thoughts? Thanks Doug in Sacramento
Hi Doug, sounds like you need to fit anti droop bump stops these will stop the top arm dropping to far and hopeful keep the arms in place.
@@HREIRL That's good news.... and how about the back springs, and the bad loose fit? Any links to the right parts?
I thought about changing to coils on mine but seeing as I would only been changing 1 end at a time I figured it was best to stick with cones
Yes I would defiantly say you made the right choice. Its is possible to run cones on the back and springs on the front but far better to convert the car completely in one go 👍
@@HREIRL yeah with mine being JDM with Aircon I'd need to de-gas it and take it apart to get to the passenger side cone which I don't really wanna do hah
@@popeyethejdmmini8817 That makes a lot of sense. Cones in good working order with quality dampers are still a fantastic Suspension setup 👍
@@HREIRL yeah I've opted for new cones in the rear and gas a just shocks all round, maybe upgrade to coils when the engine comes out
Nice bit of kit. This looks quite different than the HiLo coil kits I've seen done on other channels. These coil overs will not suffer from potential disconnection of the HiLo trumpets if adjusted too low when wheel comes off ground at full droop. Do coils overs like you used suffer from coil bind? Yes, I think the rear shock mount needs reinforcing as that bracket does not normally support weight of the car and the body panels are flimsy compared to the subframe cone mounting. Can you comment on how coil overs ride for road use compared to stock setup?
Thanks.
Hi TCAN, The ride from this setup is typically more progressive. It is however very much dependent on the spring rates and damper stiffness. This car is setup on the stiffer side with 350lb springs on the front and 175 on the back so it will have a somewhat stiff ride but in comparison to a rubber setup off this stiffness with say the yellow dot cones it would be much less harsh. The main reason for its is there is a way grater range of motion and the spring rate is 1:1 so much more linear.
Hi Paul!
Nice video!
Straight forward job!
How does coil-over handle against rubber cones for road use?
Hi bro., wonder if u could do a video for the entire clubman estate upgrade? Thxs. My family used to own 1 about 35yrs ago, I missed it man.
Sure thing!
Love the vids! 👍
I’ve this mod done also. How do you know to install the bracket on the top arm, orientated with offset to the rear end of car, and then 2 spacers on rear side of top mount? Why not the other way around?..positions the shock more towards front of car.
Cheers
Hi man thanks appreciate you stopping by the shop to hang out with us 👍
The Guys in Protech the makers of this kit supplied me with a fairly detailed installation instruction between this and my understanding of suspension Geometry I feel like this layout is the best way to align all components so they are true and central to the role access of the car in theory you could mount them in the forward direction but I feel like it would put a leaver action on the top mount
@@HREIRL Yea, makes sense. I don't have the protech conversion, and I think mine are mounted in forward direction. Will check alignment.
Your vids are great...keep doing them please. Look forward to meeting you one day. Cheers
Another cracking video, I noticed you don't use copper slip on the bolts, is that because is more of a racer than an everyday car ?
Hi Russell thanks for your kind words. I would not be a fan of copper sip in these applications I do use it but not here. While not in the video all of these bolts where coated with a liberal application of a clear grease anti seize compound I use which prevents rust as well
Another great video. Do the anti roll bars make much of a difference with the coil overs.?
The rear makes the biggest difference It flattens out the car in corners and helps keep the front wheels on the ground. The coil overs are a 1:1 ration so you need to carefully adjust the anti roll bar for road use or it would be very stiff other wise there is very little difference between rubber and coil overs.
@@HREIRL cool.... thanks for the reply 👍👍👍
I do agree Robin!
Imho there should at least be a reinforcement weld on plate behind the front top mount, or an angled plate on the inside for the two extra screws on top.
Also: the weakest point at the back is now the stub shaft for the shockabsorber/damper. This wasn’t designe to take the whole load of the weight from the vehicle.
The kit looks very nice otherwise, but as for a daily driver comfort is prefered over a stiffer set-up and the wet suspension provides that. And also the hydrolastic suspension units are getting rarer than hen’s teeth, so hold on to them.
I guess you could gain some more handling and control with shocks up front and torsion bars on a wet suspension for tarmac. On gravel or dirt (ie Rally) I think the dry suspension is the best choice.
@@mectechman1 Hi Mectechman, thanks for your reply and for your interesting reply. Having consulted with the Engineers over at protech they are very happy that the front coil over damper mount is more than capable of sustaining the forces applied to it. The bit you have remember is this is actually bolted directly to the cross member in 4 places which is the strongest structor in the entire car. Regarding the shear strength of the stub shaft bolt on the rear arm. These are made out of Steel that exceeded ASTM A574 standard and as such has a Minimum shear strength of 7276 Lb which I think you will agree is more than enough to easily and safely deal with the loads which could be applied to it in this setup. Hydrolytic has its place in historic restorations of original cars and in this application I totally agree the comfort is sublime.
wouldnt it be easier to fit the two washers before putting the one spacer on at the top of the coilover?
Great video Paul, would you consider replacing the hydro on the MG ( my big Mini ) with this sort of set up
That would be a massive improvement Stewart I am very happy with this kit, the guys have made it a really solid job a really progressive ride. I can talk to the guys there and get you a bit more information
I'd like to hear what they have to say Paul. It would probably be a very different set up with no shocks at all on the 1300
where did you get the longer ball joint to take the bracket
Do coil over shocks both front and rear improve the driving of ROUND NOSE minis?
can‘t believe the front brake line (soft-from caliper to frame) never touching the kad anti-roll bar!? if not - respect!
Good spot man, and unfortunately they do. Unfortunately I didn’t originally build this car and am currently working through a lot of errors just like that. The brakes have been a night mare. When this car arrived into my shop it hand 2 brake pressure reducers, yes you heard me correct two 😲 one on the rear subframe and another on the bulk head. So lots of deep breathing and methodically working through every components.
@@HREIRL i had the same prob - solved it with custom lines (2x banjo) adapter at the frame - i would have been feeling stupid of you have been like this! 😉
Great solution well done 👍
Does a Clubman not need a cone compressor to be able to get the cones out or was that done but not recorded? Love the videos, great information.
Hi Richard, ya would have need a cone compressor but I had already removed the cone as you said and didn’t video it :)
Very nice video. Do you know where the rear disk brake kit came from?
It was made by KAD (Kent auto Developments)
@@HREIRL Thanks.
Nice job .. another mod the traveller “needs” lol
make sure you film it 👍
@@HREIRL I’ll do that but will be a tad more amateur than your video lol
I don't know about that we have a lot to learn. But the main thing is we are having a good time working on our minis and sharing with you fine folk.
Hi Paul,
Do you think the Protech dampers are a good upgrade?
I have a full set of dampers bought, but I haven't fitted them yet. They're not coilovers, just dampers, red dot cones and hi los. I really don't want to ruin the original mini handling, but I'd love to make it better. Have you had any experience with Protech before this?
Hi Muiris, I Find the Protech the best bang for buck in mini dampers around. They are really progressive and have a very simple good quality adjustment. They should work brilliant with your red dot cones they will improve traction and smooth out any crashing from the red dots
Here's a question 🙋♂️: coil overs or spring mod kit (replaces rubber spheres)? Was thinking of putting the mod springs on my clubman. The coil over conversion looks pretty straightforward though.
I am not a fan of the springs that replace the cones, as from my experience they have very limited travel and coil bind very easy. I have also found them to have very unusual characteristics. I think because of the leverage ratios associated with
Original suspension design. I think this setup is well taught out and works well for what it is and what it costs.
@@HREIRL appreciate the feedback. I shall look into the coil overs, and have a good vid to reference. Also like how the accent transfers into the text 😉
Heyup, just planning out a mini build at the minute, would be great to hear how these have ended up for handling and comfort compared to stock. Thanks
So far very good, the car went back to the customer last week and we where very happy, one thing to not however is if your car has not had the rear arches tubbed then go for the longer rear shocks as with the length se when with the rear was at its max hight just to get some rear clearance 👍comfort levels where very good nice over bumpy roads and stiff enough through corners with lots of adjustability left
@@HREIRL Awesome, thanks. So would you recommend a well-tuned coilover setup over a well-tuned rubber cone setup?
@@letsflywiththemusic Haha put my cards on the table, Honestly performance wise its much of a much-ness but I supose one advanatage the coil setup has over OE the spring wont change over time where is the rubber cone will, Its also some what more easy to adjust as the coil over can be reached with the wheel in place. but performance wise a good new rubber setup works probably just as good
@@HREIRL thanks pal
Hi there.
Is it possible to convert a NON VERTO clutch Mini to Verto clutch..??
😎👍
👍👍
Hi just wondering can you leave the donuts in
Rather than take them out
Hello! can I have the links to where you bought the brackets, coilovers and other parts that you used? I want to upgrade the shock absorbers in my Mini too. thanks!
Hi Richard, the company these where produced by is Protech www.protechshocks.co.uk/ they are decent people.
HREIRL thanks!
HREIRL , I checked out the website but they didn’t have the brackets that you used. They Only have the coilovers. Can I ask where you got yours?
@@JoachinYnchausti we got them from the guys at Protech you just need to bang them and email the have them full kit the brackets just aren’t listed on the website 👍
HREIRL ok thanks!
Does the coilover conversion make the car ride as bad
as the spring conversion
That all depends on the spring rate you chose we have gone with 350 front and 175 rears which is on the stiffer side but will still be very progressive
what is that rear disk break kit. where I can find
It is made by KAD(Kent Auto Development) in Kent 👍👍
Kanna hitenawa
What brand is the kit?
I have seen Spax, but that looks different.
It is a kit by Pro Tech its a really well taught out kit that fits really well 👍
how much lower is the car likely to sit? i imagine you can get it much lower that you would usually with hi-los
So all the forces at the rear suspension for now go through the wheel arch and not the subframe. Cant see that lasting long. Itll rip the inner arch out in no time.
I was thinking the same and the rubber bushes are now bearing the full weight of the rear.
Doesn't this put excessive loading on body parts that aren't designed for it?
Very good question, The front is well reengineered in this kit with the brackets and strengthener. For me I think on a saloon the back would be ok for normal driving but I think reinforcement would be wise for spirited driving. I have consulted with this customer and we have agreed a strut brace Is defiantly a good addition which I will make up for it.
Asawe ba appa
You might want to check the 4 pot calipers on maximum turn against the square section of the tie bar, this is notoriously a bad design and can with some calipers actually cause the steering to be forced back, not good for safety.
Where's Ep2 of race engine build? Have my eyes failed me?
Hi Stephen, It is in the pipe line unfortunately we have gotten caught up in the nightmare that is international shipping across the pond. We are waiting on a few little bits. Once they arrive we will crack on with it 👍
@@HREIRL good stuff, looking forward to it 👍🏻
Hi where did you buy the coil over shocks? Thank you
from Protech very good quality kit well engineered