Thx for video Brandon! Separation method is genius but also risky so I pick both ha. I noticed areokroil in comments I swear but that stuff but not sure it would’ve helped hear. A little TLC would’ve saved your burial ceremony but glad to see the watch! Keep ‘em coming man.
Nice. I've done this myself. Only rigged to a car hoist and chain in the floor for chain straightening. Blew the water pump to bits. Engine back in running order.
I do work on these older outboard and I know you should heat the metal around the bold, nit the bolt itself. The heat makes the metal swell, so swell the metal around your bolt, not the bolt. Might still have twisted off, but I sure hated seeing you torch the bolts.
Oh man brandon that was priceless humor,time off death initiated and documented by a timex clock rubberbanded to said hand,sir you are a master of your creativity!!!!aplaudd,aplaudd.🤪🤪just blast into it with old college try,gonna break apart anyhow at some point.powerhead may still be good?snookie pa.
You are not heating your bolts hot enough! They should be red hot with melted and burned paint around. Then you stand the chance of getting these bolts out. Also try welding a larger nut to the broken bolts. This usually allows to free that corrosion up
I've done lots of them like that in my time, BUT those times are done and an old clunker like that is just not worth it. For anyone that's interested, you'll need an oxy acetylene set a no 15 tip, a selection of alloy wedges of various sizes, 2 large flat blade screw drivers 2 hd tyres levers and a 3 pound mini sledge hammer (18 in handle ) and lots of brute force and heat. With care you won't break the front flat part where the shift rod is, but I've seen it done. But as I said it's just not worth the effort the motor is finished.
it went like this? "Hey, where is that watch?!" "I don't know, but you can use my iWatch" "I would rather tape an alarm clock to my arm......hey...... never mind I got an idea"
I haven’t tried it yet but I have watched videos about the same situation. Submerge the lower unit in a tank or use plastic bags filled with coke overnight. If it doesn’t work all you have lost is your time and the price of soda. And by the way I do agree with others not to heat the bolt but heat the aluminum which expands at a much faster rate. Not red hot because it will blow away like trying to weld it with too much heat.
have you thought about tapping the holes with broken studs in them, put grease fittings in and pump them full of grease, might push the lower unit off.
Time to turn into parts salvage mode. Buzz and chop. Unfortunately the boneyard is often the location for crusty corroded up outboards go to die when they are too badly corroded to service.
If it didnt match up elsewhere, I'd think this was my old motor. Didnt know the bolt in the back was broken and ended up with those screw driver marks you mentioned 😂
The boat? I had one [inboard] They are called a HYDROPLAIN and failed to finish it before I went into the service, so I gave it to my buddy's kid brother he put a Briggs and Stratton in it and fished out of for a couple of years. And I love my NEVERSEAZE on the threads
In the future don't heat the bolts themselves heat the area around the bolts. If you heat the bolt itself up it causes it to expand inside the threads making the problem worse. Also try MAP Gas. Gets a lot hotter than propane.
@@BrandonsGarage Not very likely. The bolt is thicker than the casing of the midsection/lower unit. Therefore takes longer to heat up and expand than the casing.
In my experience, you should heat up both the casing and the bolt alternately, letting either cool before moving to the other and before any attempt to apply some torgue on the bolt. One should also first try to tighten the bolt and then back it up in a slow rocking movement. Spraying water to accelerate the metal contraction might also help. In this case, patience is your best ally !
@@danielrobert7181 i have used the heat and freeze method with nitrogen in a can. tap the bolt with a hammer. get it red hot, then cool it down rapidly. some penetrant oil and sit overnight. the tapping probably does more than most think and is often forgotten. every try to get a stuck jar lid open without tapping it?
i got a 1987 50hp that has stripped driveshaft and stripped crankshaft where the driveshaft goes-its got 145lbs compression both cyls w no spark-it looks to have been in alot of saltwater and i dont think will come apart soooo i got for free-think im gonna put some jb weld or red lochtite on the shaft and a new h2o impellar and jam it back together and run it till no water pump-or i wondered if ican thread the shaft and tap the crank while in the motor and run that-orrrr weld a cpl beads on the shaft and take a die grinder and make a cpl grooves in the crank-wonder which method would outlast the h2o pump
Sorry Brandon need to ask you a question about changing evinrude stick to cable throttle, it’s a 15hp like the twin set you fitted to your boat you showed everything but how you connected the throttle, I’ve searched your videos before I asked if I missed it please drop me a link to it and thank you your work has helped so much over time
Before anything else gets destroyed.... that looks like the model of motor I've been looking for (for a project for my boys [12 & 13] - Depending on price and location, I might be interested.
Heating the bolt head only expands the bolt and makes it harder to remove . You must heat the aluminum to loosen the bolt easily. Every Marine Tech Knows this.
I have a 1971 ish 50hp johnson - I've tried for all the life of me to get the flywheel off as I suspect the flywheel key (and potentially more?) and ended up with a broken bolt. I don't really want to give up on it as I believe it will be a good motor (125psi both cylinders) Any advice for getting a stuck on flywheel off?
Sadly you can't save them all... Spit my coffee out laughing so hard when you were using the torch to kill the creepy crawler and you said, "It's great around fuel systems".
cut the driveshaft, pull the powerhead (shoulders will be seized so heating, tapping and more cutting), then cut the driveshaft down further, flip powerhead over on the bench. now you can cut 2 notches on the bottom to get a split bearing puller in there. puts extreme load on the crank but if the puller is even should do the job without damage. pain in the neck! hate it when owners dont do water pumps for years.
Unfortunately you save the most expensive and hard to replace parts , I’d say sacrifice the leg and D shaft and hopefully the engine will come off without a bolt breaking . The lower unit gears and shaft might be good still and there are tons of 60hp legs to be had with good lower unit housings not to mention drive shafts ! It’s nice of you to give them a break on a different motor !
@@rustynutz_marine there only in 15 , 20 and 25 and here in Minnesota we run s.s mostly . Just called a friend who owns a bone yard and he’s has 4 on hand now , not cheap but can be had !
I have two of these motors and I lost spark on the top cylinder mid way through the day yesterday. Swapped coils with known good and still no spark. Good spark on bottom. Really hoping it's not the power pack, but in your experience how do these 75 era power packs hold up? Has run great the past few years I've had them. Havent dove into full diagnosis yet, think I'll swap the leads on the power pack to ensure it's a bad output to the coil
pack or sensor coil. unfortunately, the sensor is part of the pack on these years. they upgraded later around 1983/1984 to the ones where the charge, power and sensor coils can be replaced individually so i upgrade all of mine to those type. same as used on the 9.9-35hp motors too so they are everywhere. or just go CDI and get the whole stator but its pricey.
@@streetscapes np. very simple ignitions to test with a DVA meter so you arent guessing. highly suggest investing $20 in a used FACTORY service manual no aftermarket stuff. for $50 you can now do what a mechanic would've for $200 minimum.
Hi Brandon. I'm a subscriber to the channel and hope you could help me with something. I'm installing a tach on my 1992 Johnson 115. On the back of the tach is the "Pulse" dial. Do you know how many pulse the V4 Johnsons are? Thank you for your time. Jeff from Wisconsin
You have some separation of lower unit, why not try to get a steel thin saw blade like maybe a sawsall with a long blade . And cut thru the motor shaft and the foot would fall off. I really think that would work..
The rear isn't stuck anymore. Problem is the front, where I don't have the movement to get a blade in there. Now, I could grinder it, but then I'm replacing the housing, and chances are the powerhead is stuck too.
Penetrating oil...get some AeroKroil and wait. Hang motor upside down from hoist by the lower, and spray the Koil in each of those holes with broken bolts and on the driveshaft through your little gap, and wait a few days. Don't screw up the lower or mid any more - please don't cut the mid. The short parts are very desireable and a lot harder to find. in the future, spray all crusty fasteners with the Kroil. I rarely need to use heat, maybe on salty stuff.
Whoever the owner of this motor was, they thought maintaining the motor meant, you put gas in it. That thing is a mess, I hope they didn't spend too much for it, of course finding out what a mess it is means $20.00 was too much.
In my 45 yrs of outboard repair, I have never see such butchery. This guy caused all his own problems and has now created a bigger problem then before he touched it .He needs an education in outboard repair ,NOT teaching
@@BrandonsGarage Read all my post's and other peoples that know what their doing . I get so mad when I see people like you attack it from the wrong direction .GET OFF YOU TUBE before you do anymore damage. Short Shafts are so hard to find now and you destroyed it ,Or caused someone else a shitload of work to save it . If ya dont know ask a 20 yr tech or dont touch the f-n thing.
Penetrating fluid and heat and don't heat the bolt, heat what the bolt is in and get a REAL torch My wife's lips are hotter than that LP torch Sometimes a small drill where the bolt is stuck with penetrant in the hole will free it up without breaking it then put some sealant in it on reassembly.
I like the clock around the wrist gag. Nice touch!
Thx for video Brandon! Separation method is genius but also risky so I pick both ha. I noticed areokroil in comments I swear but that stuff but not sure it would’ve helped hear. A little TLC would’ve saved your burial ceremony but glad to see the watch! Keep ‘em coming man.
Loved your ingenuity.
BEST WRISTWATCH EVER.
Cracked me up!!!
Love the wrist watch lol!
That RTV - at first I thought it was a red stripe painted on there!
Nice. I've done this myself. Only rigged to a car hoist and chain in the floor for chain straightening. Blew the water pump to bits. Engine back in running order.
I do work on these older outboard and I know you should heat the metal around the bold, nit the bolt itself. The heat makes the metal swell, so swell the metal around your bolt, not the bolt. Might still have twisted off, but I sure hated seeing you torch the bolts.
100% correct This ass made it twice as hard to repair now. If that was my motor ,I'd sue
Oh man brandon that was priceless humor,time off death initiated and documented by a timex clock rubberbanded to said hand,sir you are a master of your creativity!!!!aplaudd,aplaudd.🤪🤪just blast into it with old college try,gonna break apart anyhow at some point.powerhead may still be good?snookie pa.
Hahahaha, nice watch. I wouldn't take that one swimming.
Heating the bolt instead of the case probably caused the bolt to break
You are not heating your bolts hot enough! They should be red hot with melted and burned paint around. Then you stand the chance of getting these bolts out. Also try welding a larger nut to the broken bolts. This usually allows to free that corrosion up
That motor is a job that you don’t want to start!
I've done lots of them like that in my time, BUT those times are done and an old clunker like that is just not worth it.
For anyone that's interested, you'll need an oxy acetylene set a no 15 tip, a selection of alloy wedges of various sizes, 2 large flat blade screw drivers 2 hd tyres levers and a 3 pound mini sledge hammer (18 in handle ) and lots of brute force and heat. With care you won't break the front flat part where the shift rod is, but I've seen it done.
But as I said it's just not worth the effort the motor is finished.
Love the new watch
it went like this?
"Hey, where is that watch?!"
"I don't know, but you can use my iWatch"
"I would rather tape an alarm clock to my arm......hey...... never mind I got an idea"
Had some of this outboards when i was young. Real crappy things, breaking rods all the times😢
Sad.. Given the classic nature of this motor, at this point, piece it out and hopefully that will cover costs.
I haven’t tried it yet but I have watched videos about the same situation.
Submerge the lower unit in a tank or use plastic bags filled with coke overnight. If it doesn’t work all you have lost is your time and the price of soda.
And by the way I do agree with others not to heat the bolt but heat the aluminum which expands at a much faster rate. Not red hot because it will blow away like trying to weld it with too much heat.
Well, that's a sad end............
have you thought about tapping the holes with broken studs in them, put grease fittings in and pump them full of grease, might push the lower unit off.
Best available choice.
Time to turn into parts salvage mode. Buzz and chop. Unfortunately the boneyard is often the location for crusty corroded up outboards go to die when they are too badly corroded to service.
If it didnt match up elsewhere, I'd think this was my old motor. Didnt know the bolt in the back was broken and ended up with those screw driver marks you mentioned 😂
The boat? I had one [inboard] They are called a HYDROPLAIN and failed to finish it before I went into the service, so I gave it to my buddy's kid brother he put a Briggs and Stratton in it and fished out of for a couple of years. And I love my NEVERSEAZE on the threads
Put me on "Team Genius"
It would be nice to salvage the powerhead with nice compression numbers like this one has.
If it will come off....
I bet at least 4 of the powerhead screws will break.
@@BrandonsGarage No bet, you've done this many more times than I have.
You gave it a try, you gave it all you could, try to save the power head and that’s all there is to it.
In the future don't heat the bolts themselves heat the area around the bolts. If you heat the bolt itself up it causes it to expand inside the threads making the problem worse. Also try MAP Gas. Gets a lot hotter than propane.
If you heat the area around it up, would it too just expand onto the bolt? I like to heat, cool, heat, and hope.
@@BrandonsGarage Not very likely. The bolt is thicker than the casing of the midsection/lower unit. Therefore takes longer to heat up and expand than the casing.
In my experience, you should heat up both the casing and the bolt alternately, letting either cool before moving to the other and before any attempt to apply some torgue on the bolt. One should also first try to tighten the bolt and then back it up in a slow rocking movement. Spraying water to accelerate the metal contraction might also help. In this case, patience is your best ally !
@@danielrobert7181 i have used the heat and freeze method with nitrogen in a can. tap the bolt with a hammer. get it red hot, then cool it down rapidly. some penetrant oil and sit overnight. the tapping probably does more than most think and is often forgotten. every try to get a stuck jar lid open without tapping it?
Under their carburetor there is a 10 mm bolt that holds the shift
I was thinking hitting it with an air hammer. Send good vibrations up that shaft. But it’s a desperation.
i got a 1987 50hp that has stripped driveshaft and stripped crankshaft where the driveshaft goes-its got 145lbs compression both cyls w no spark-it looks to have been in alot of saltwater and i dont think will come apart soooo i got for free-think im gonna put some jb weld or red lochtite on the shaft and a new h2o impellar and jam it back together and run it till no water pump-or i wondered if ican thread the shaft and tap the crank while in the motor and run that-orrrr weld a cpl beads on the shaft and take a die grinder and make a cpl grooves in the crank-wonder which method would outlast the h2o pump
The power of corrosion.
Sorry Brandon need to ask you a question about changing evinrude stick to cable throttle, it’s a 15hp like the twin set you fitted to your boat you showed everything but how you connected the throttle, I’ve searched your videos before I asked if I missed it please drop me a link to it and thank you your work has helped so much over time
czcams.com/video/M72av0XdE3E/video.html
Thank you very much I had watched this video a few times 😂 👌🏻it’s what style and type of linkage to the throttle body/shaft
Before anything else gets destroyed.... that looks like the model of motor I've been looking for (for a project for my boys [12 & 13] -
Depending on price and location, I might be interested.
Well where are you from?
I can pass the info the the owner, but it's not my engine.
@@BrandonsGarage Southern Missouri.
I had to use an axe to get my lower unit away from the motor😂
It's broken. What else are you supposed to do.
It is what it is
I think you’re an absolute genius!
Heating the bolt head only expands the bolt and makes it harder to remove . You must heat the aluminum to loosen the bolt easily. Every Marine Tech Knows this.
I heat it all! #YOLO
I have a 1971 ish 50hp johnson - I've tried for all the life of me to get the flywheel off as I suspect the flywheel key (and potentially more?) and ended up with a broken bolt. I don't really want to give up on it as I believe it will be a good motor (125psi both cylinders)
Any advice for getting a stuck on flywheel off?
Sadly you can't save them all... Spit my coffee out laughing so hard when you were using the torch to kill the creepy crawler and you said, "It's great around fuel systems".
cut the driveshaft, pull the powerhead (shoulders will be seized so heating, tapping and more cutting), then cut the driveshaft down further, flip powerhead over on the bench. now you can cut 2 notches on the bottom to get a split bearing puller in there. puts extreme load on the crank but if the puller is even should do the job without damage. pain in the neck! hate it when owners dont do water pumps for years.
Unfortunately you save the most expensive and hard to replace parts , I’d say sacrifice the leg and D shaft and hopefully the engine will come off without a bolt breaking . The lower unit gears and shaft might be good still and there are tons of 60hp legs to be had with good lower unit housings not to mention drive shafts ! It’s nice of you to give them a break on a different motor !
not 15in mids...
@@rustynutz_marine sure lots of them around , our last swap meet I saw at least 10 of them and that was 3 weeks ago !
@@rustynutz_marine SS mid sections
@@rustynutz_marine there only in 15 , 20 and 25 and here in Minnesota we run s.s mostly . Just called a friend who owns a bone yard and he’s has 4 on hand now , not cheap but can be had !
@@davekimbler2308 ive got 1/2 dozen around the shop. some newer 89' and up ones, too. handsome little things that for sure!
I have two of these motors and I lost spark on the top cylinder mid way through the day yesterday. Swapped coils with known good and still no spark. Good spark on bottom. Really hoping it's not the power pack, but in your experience how do these 75 era power packs hold up? Has run great the past few years I've had them. Havent dove into full diagnosis yet, think I'll swap the leads on the power pack to ensure it's a bad output to the coil
Sounds like power pack or stator.
pack or sensor coil. unfortunately, the sensor is part of the pack on these years. they upgraded later around 1983/1984 to the ones where the charge, power and sensor coils can be replaced individually so i upgrade all of mine to those type. same as used on the 9.9-35hp motors too so they are everywhere. or just go CDI and get the whole stator but its pricey.
@@ct1762 thanks for the reply. I'll report back once I get to it this winter 👍
@@streetscapes np. very simple ignitions to test with a DVA meter so you arent guessing. highly suggest investing $20 in a used FACTORY service manual no aftermarket stuff. for $50 you can now do what a mechanic would've for $200 minimum.
Hi Brandon. I'm a subscriber to the channel and hope you could help me with something. I'm installing a tach on my 1992 Johnson 115. On the back of the tach is the "Pulse" dial. Do you know how many pulse the V4 Johnsons are?
Thank you for your time.
Jeff from Wisconsin
Yup, gimme a few and Ill upload a video.
Here you are!
czcams.com/video/e5lIqaj_y38/video.html
...also, the answer is 6
@@BrandonsGarage Can't thank you enough Brandon. You deserve CZcams hall of fame recognition.
Put oil on the bolts and tap the top of the crankshaft.
Tried.
You have some separation of lower unit, why not try to get a steel thin saw blade like maybe a sawsall with a long blade . And cut thru the motor shaft and the foot would fall off. I really think that would work..
The rear isn't stuck anymore. Problem is the front, where I don't have the movement to get a blade in there.
Now, I could grinder it, but then I'm replacing the housing, and chances are the powerhead is stuck too.
Surely try turning engine via flywheel first check ???
Penetrating oil...get some AeroKroil and wait. Hang motor upside down from hoist by the lower, and spray the Koil in each of those holes with broken bolts and on the driveshaft through your little gap, and wait a few days. Don't screw up the lower or mid any more - please don't cut the mid. The short parts are very desireable and a lot harder to find. in the future, spray all crusty fasteners with the Kroil. I rarely need to use heat, maybe on salty stuff.
Looking for a 40hp Evenrude tiller arm W/electric start
Drill out the bolts?
will those carbs fit on my 40 hp
Spray some blaster?
Heat is your friend
Shift linkage
Whoever the owner of this motor was, they thought maintaining the motor meant, you put gas in it. That thing is a mess, I hope they didn't spend too much for it, of course finding out what a mess it is means $20.00 was too much.
Depressing to see motor abuse. Throw it out and buy a new one. Right?
In my 45 yrs of outboard repair, I have never see such butchery. This guy caused all his own problems and has now created a bigger problem then before he touched it .He needs an education in outboard repair ,NOT teaching
What would you have done?
@@BrandonsGarage Read all my post's and other peoples that know what their doing . I get so mad when I see people like you attack it from the wrong direction .GET OFF YOU TUBE before you do anymore damage. Short Shafts are so hard to find now and you destroyed it ,Or caused someone else a shitload of work to save it . If ya dont know ask a 20 yr tech or dont touch the f-n thing.
Penetrating fluid and heat and don't heat the bolt, heat what the bolt is in and get a REAL torch My wife's lips are hotter than that LP torch
Sometimes a small drill where the bolt is stuck with penetrant in the hole will free it up without breaking it then put some sealant in it on reassembly.