I review this most times I service my drive. There's always a nugget that I either missed or forgot. My kids say Easter Eggs. Hope you are well! NHGuy.
Great video. You are the only one on CZcams who put the lip seal on correctly. On several videos people left the installation tool on the shaft and put the outdrive back together not knowing what it is.
I am a retired marine mechanic.. certified in MerCruiser sterndrive.. Put the key and impeller on the shaft, then slide down the housing while twisting the shaft.....easy peasy
That very last part, gear lube level going down because of that air pocket. Thank you! I am doing this maintenance task for the first time on a friend’s boat today. He had this service job done about 21/2 years ago and I have had to top the gear oil reservoir twice. I do not have bolts to make pins out of and this would take hours to source some for pins. So I will be wrangling alignment with hands of a smooth magician lol. Three days later, I will probably be making those alignment pins.
I watched your video to show me how to change the impeller on my boat I recently purchased. It went just as you showed. My kit didn't come with the seal installer like yours did. I just pushed the seal over the shaft until it was flush to the bottom. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Great video! You only need the alignment pins for the older housing and cavitation plate. The latest generation of housing and alignment plate have a small clearance hole and a slot diagonally from the on-size clearance hole. The remaining two holes are oversized (the same size as all four in the older design). To install, start one bolt in the smallest hole, the second one in the slot; tighten down, then install the remaining bolts in the oversized holes.
Thanks for explaining about the splines on the driveshaft being oil bathed. I was wondering where the oil was coming from when I removed the lower unit and it looked like it was coming from the upper shaft.
Very interesting .make sure all gaskets .and pins are place d in the right place .insure the hole exactly line up and allow time for gasket to seat it self . Also are able to use a bigger water pump .?
I have a new OEM water pump kit. It comes with the new oil seal carrier, just like the yellow one in the unit you're working on. Do I need to add 2-4-C to the inside of the oil seals inside the carrier? Also, is loctite required around the outside of the oil seal carrier? It appears loctite was used on the one I removed. There is an orange/red colored ring around the housing where the oil seal carrier sits.
My shaft has a were ring from the water pump cover and I did not see a o ring on the shaft above water pump housing... I took it apart as I have seen a white chalk like substance and figured out drivers running hot get to high riser temperatures the motor never goes above 160 but my left riser get so hot I cannot hold my hand on it they are a one piece riser design I am switching to a two-piece conversion with a new water pump housing assembly and new pick up tube the guidetube was melted as well as the color for the water pump pick up tube was deformed a bit. Thoughts i'm changing the shaft. And in the video the yellow seal should I change that as well
Great video. Nice job on explaining issues to avoid. Don't forget the speedometer tube :). My shaft has slight side to side play, only 3 years old. Is that normal?
Very informative. I replaced my water pump last year. Now that my boat is dry docked I see a little bit of gear oil coming out the water inlet holes at the bottom of the drive. Is this perhaps a bad shaft seal the one that's located on top of the pump housing.??
No. Merc special part. Part number is 91-821571A1. If you'd like to make than yourself, the thread is M6, half an inch long. The top part of the pin is 0.27", 2.75" long...
The water housing nuts must be torqued to 60 inch pounds, and be mindful if you apply any grease to the threads which is not called for by MerCruiser, You will have to apply more force to your torque tool to achieve 60 inch pounds. Therefore you should compensate by reducing your torque to 59 inch pounds. There is a bead of dry silicone that runs around the upper gasket that must be compressed precisely to achieve the correct seal. A big shout out goes to Chrisa660 for pointing out that it should be inch pounds not foot pounds. Of course not everyone has expensive torque tools so just use your best judgment and don’t overdo it.
The water pump housing screws are torqued to 60 INCH pounds, not foot pounds. If you attempt to get them to 60 foot pounds, you'll strip out the aluminium housing long before getting to that torque. 60 INCH pounds is 5 foot pounds.
i looked at purchasing the pins 34.oo dollars US I was like WOW so i got some thread rod at a local hardware store 4 each for 0.95 cents so i have 4 pins for 4 dollars!!
Displacement mode: When the pump impeller is spinning slowly and the rubber blades are touching the sides of the housing. Because the impeller is not centred in the housing each chamber changes size as the impeller turns. As the chamber gets bigger, it pulls water in. When the chamber starts to decrease in size, it 'displaces' the water through the outlet port in the housing. Centrifugal mode: Once the impeller is spinning faster, the rubber blades 'fold back', and the water is drawn in (from near the centre of the impeller) and expelled from the housing (through the outlet port near the outer edge of the housing) by centrifugal forces.
To replace the bearing, you need a couple of Merc special tools. One is the tool to remove the bearing retainer, the other is a preload tool for setting the pinion height (which the shims under the bearing adjust). If you don't have the tools, take the drive to a Merc shop and have it done.
Are you a mechanic by trade or is this your shade tree series? Not at all questioning your methods but rather your demeanor... seems your happy place rather than work.
I owned a boat shop for a few years. I'm Merc trained and certified, and still work on boats for friends and family. (I have a lot of friends. ;-) It's work, but I enjoy it very much.
I review this most times I service my drive. There's always a nugget that I either missed or forgot. My kids say Easter Eggs. Hope you are well! NHGuy.
Great video. You are the only one on CZcams who put the lip seal on correctly. On several videos people left the installation tool on the shaft and put the outdrive back together not knowing what it is.
I am a retired marine mechanic.. certified in MerCruiser sterndrive..
Put the key and impeller on the shaft, then slide down the housing while twisting the shaft.....easy peasy
That very last part, gear lube level going down because of that air pocket. Thank you! I am doing this maintenance task for the first time on a friend’s boat today. He had this service job done about 21/2 years ago and I have had to top the gear oil reservoir twice.
I do not have bolts to make pins out of and this would take hours to source some for pins. So I will be wrangling alignment with hands of a smooth magician lol. Three days later, I will probably be making those alignment pins.
Like all your videos, this was extremely helpful! Thank you so much! We miss you on iBoats!
Well done and very informative, thanks!
I watched your video to show me how to change the impeller on my boat I recently purchased. It went just as you showed. My kit didn't come with the seal installer like yours did. I just pushed the seal over the shaft until it was flush to the bottom. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Great video! You only need the alignment pins for the older housing and cavitation plate. The latest generation of housing and alignment plate have a small clearance hole and a slot diagonally from the on-size clearance hole. The remaining two holes are oversized (the same size as all four in the older design). To install, start one bolt in the smallest hole, the second one in the slot; tighten down, then install the remaining bolts in the oversized holes.
great video , explained things really well . thank you.
Thanks eh! Excellent description of the things to look for. Best of the bunch
Thanks for explaining about the splines on the driveshaft being oil bathed. I was wondering where the oil was coming from when I removed the lower unit and it looked like it was coming from the upper shaft.
Very interesting .make sure all gaskets .and pins are place d in the right place .insure the hole exactly line up and allow time for gasket to seat it self . Also are able to use a bigger water pump .?
I have a new OEM water pump kit. It comes with the new oil seal carrier, just like the yellow one in the unit you're working on. Do I need to add 2-4-C to the inside of the oil seals inside the carrier? Also, is loctite required around the outside of the oil seal carrier? It appears loctite was used on the one I removed. There is an orange/red colored ring around the housing where the oil seal carrier sits.
My shaft has a were ring from the water pump cover and I did not see a o ring on the shaft above water pump housing... I took it apart as I have seen a white chalk like substance and figured out drivers running hot get to high riser temperatures the motor never goes above 160 but my left riser get so hot I cannot hold my hand on it they are a one piece riser design I am switching to a two-piece conversion with a new water pump housing assembly and new pick up tube the guidetube was melted as well as the color for the water pump pick up tube was deformed a bit. Thoughts i'm changing the shaft. And in the video the yellow seal should I change that as well
Great video. Nice job on explaining issues to avoid. Don't forget the speedometer tube :). My shaft has slight side to side play, only 3 years old. Is that normal?
+Jonathan McClure Which shaft? Drive shaft, yes. Shift shaft, no.
You don't need alignment pins, when you put all four bolts in before tightening, it's self aligning.
yeah in the #14 manual it states that in "earlier" models you need the twins, so later ones no.
How will I know when to replace the (yellow) carrier? Great video. Big help.
I had oil coming out the bottom water vent holes when my seal went bad
Hi Chris, top job on the camera a instruction mate,
Question is wear do you source most of your marine parts, im in Sydney
Very informative. I replaced my water pump last year. Now that my boat is dry docked I see a little bit of gear oil coming out the water inlet holes at the bottom of the drive. Is this perhaps a bad shaft seal the one that's located on top of the pump housing.??
+thomas wild That's the only seal that you would detect oil in the water intakes from.
Hi Chris super video, perfect to work with.... have you done some instruktions for Changeing in the sameway.bellows etc. Thanks marcus alpha one gen 2
Do you have any information on the shift shaft seal? Can I just pull it out to replace?
my tube and tube guide are stuck, is there an easy way to remove them with out destroying anything?
No. Merc special part. Part number is 91-821571A1. If you'd like to make than yourself, the thread is M6, half an inch long. The top part of the pin is 0.27", 2.75" long...
How long are the alignment pins and what is the diameter of the pins? Thank you!
Why after reinstalling gearshaft housing, my reverse won't engage
The water housing nuts must be torqued to 60 inch pounds, and be mindful if you apply any grease to the threads which is not called for by MerCruiser, You will have to apply more force to your torque tool to achieve 60 inch pounds. Therefore you should compensate by reducing your torque to 59 inch pounds. There is a bead of dry silicone that runs around the upper gasket that must be compressed precisely to achieve the correct seal. A big shout out goes to Chrisa660 for pointing out that it should be inch pounds not foot pounds. Of course not everyone has expensive torque tools so just use your best judgment and don’t overdo it.
The water pump housing screws are torqued to 60 INCH pounds, not foot pounds. If you attempt to get them to 60 foot pounds, you'll strip out the aluminium housing long before getting to that torque. 60 INCH pounds is 5 foot pounds.
@@chrisa660 oops, ok.
chrisa660 I was able to edit the mistake and gave you credit for pointing it out.
@2:42. What seal are u talking about? Let me know. My whole water tube was melted due to over heating.
And do I put the gaskets on dry no glue
+Norm Sniper dry.
I really wish part numbers for kits were shown.
What numbers are you looking for?
@@chrisa660 i was looking for impeller kit part # I came across two different numbers. I just picked one. Thanks for the video.
i looked at purchasing the pins 34.oo dollars US I was like WOW so i got some thread rod at a local hardware store 4 each for 0.95 cents so i have 4 pins for 4 dollars!!
+eviloctober No, actually you don't. The proper pins have a reduced thread diameter from the pin diameter. You need a lathe to make your own.
Please explain displacement versus centrifugal mode.
Displacement mode: When the pump impeller is spinning slowly and the rubber blades are touching the sides of the housing. Because the impeller is not centred in the housing each chamber changes size as the impeller turns. As the chamber gets bigger, it pulls water in. When the chamber starts to decrease in size, it 'displaces' the water through the outlet port in the housing.
Centrifugal mode: Once the impeller is spinning faster, the rubber blades 'fold back', and the water is drawn in (from near the centre of the impeller) and expelled from the housing (through the outlet port near the outer edge of the housing) by centrifugal forces.
do you know how to remove the bearing UNDER the yellow part? the bearing in my lower unit is shot
Phillips head screw driver on either side and pry up
@@1986cwr That replaces the SEAL, not the bearing...
To replace the bearing, you need a couple of Merc special tools. One is the tool to remove the bearing retainer, the other is a preload tool for setting the pinion height (which the shims under the bearing adjust). If you don't have the tools, take the drive to a Merc shop and have it done.
Hello can we on a transom g1 an alpha one gen 2 mercruiser
Are you a mechanic by trade or is this your shade tree series? Not at all questioning your methods but rather your demeanor... seems your happy place rather than work.
I owned a boat shop for a few years. I'm Merc trained and certified, and still work on boats for friends and family. (I have a lot of friends. ;-) It's work, but I enjoy it very much.