Have you ever considered getting a "hydrofoil" for the boat? I had a 19' MirroCraft bow rider, it was an aluminum boat but actually a V-hull! It had a 140hp 4cyl Merc. The previous owner put a hydrofoil on it. I took it off when I did my water pump just to see the difference and PROMPTLY put it back on. It got the boat on plane faster, made the drive pitch have way better effect on the boat stability and helped it come "out of the hole" better with less cavitation.
I'm actually glad you posted this as I've been thinking of adding one to my boat, but really haven't been able to find anyone to give me a solid answer as to how well they worked. I've been debating on either a hydrofoil, or just adding some tabs! I'm a bit light in the front end and can't seem to stop the boat from porpoising at higher speeds.
@@1D10CRACY our boat didn't have porpoising issues but I'm sure it will help! Ours had issues coming on plane without it because, being an OLD ('73 if I remember correctly) aluminum boat it was riveted together. All the parts on the deep-v hull like the lifting strakes were riveted on aluminum forms and had exposed domed rivet heads like the early riveted aluminum planes! They caused some drag obviously and the hydrofoil helped pull it up out of the water quicker to get all that crap out of the water line. Trim tabs are definitely nice but won't help for the out if the hole cavitation. Also unless you have powered ones you suffer the issues with them affecting the boat performance at speeds other then what they are optimally set for. Powered ones are awesome but expensive! You also have to punch holes in the transoms for the bolts and to power them. If you have other issues though like her riding crooked in the water tabs are the only way to fix that. For well under 100$ the hydrofoil is probably the best place to start! Stingray Hydrofoil has nice ones. Just checked in on them and they appear to be cheaper from their online company store then other places like Bass Pro! Not sure if they charge shipping though.
When I'm servicing the lower unit, I run a strap with a cam-lock buckle around the upper & lower halves. Especially helps when assembling because you can use it to take the weight while you get those two nuts on with limited access. Handy when taking it apart too.
Forgot to mention the o-ring on the end of the drive shaft below the splines. The shaft seal on 1974 pre-alpha stayed in the upper unit and the o-ring sitting on top of it made it look like the same style seal as in the lower water pump housing only broken. The kit you referenced comes with the upper shaft o-ring.
The boat is a mix of parts between two boats. A lot of the parts came from a boat that was dated 1984 if I remember. I used some of the parts from that boat to accommodate an engine swap. But this has been years ago and I don't remember the details.
Very nice video! Clear explanation, and to the point! Will be doing this very shortly. Finally got my bellows kit and gimble bearing installed and tried my boat for the first time since purchasing it a couple yrs back, and it started to overheat after only about 5-8 mins of being in the water at the boat launch...I'm a rookie at this boating stuff, so i guess i should have just done all this at the same time! My unit should be the MC-1 as its a 1976 Merc 165hp inline 6. Also, does the gear oil have to be drained in order to seperate lower from upper?
I'm not sure if you could get by without draining the gear oil or not. I always do as it is just a good time to change it. The one in this video sounds like the same setup, it was a Chevy inline 6, 165 w/ an MC1. 1977 Hammnd, but it now has a Ford 302 in it.
I am having trouble with a screw on the lower unit. I cannot get to it to remove it. That is the only thing keeping me from completing the project! Any thoughts. It's a 1984 Mercruiser Stern Drive
Mine lost gear patterns after putting back the drive, as in when I shift to beau trap it’s still in gear etc. any tips on where to begin? I’m so confused as I thought I was putting it back the same way.
You need to have an assistant move the shift lever back and forth a bit while you push the lower unit on that last couple inches, It's close to impossible if you don't do that, mine is anyway and do not force it on!!
Have you ever considered getting a "hydrofoil" for the boat? I had a 19' MirroCraft bow rider, it was an aluminum boat but actually a V-hull! It had a 140hp 4cyl Merc. The previous owner put a hydrofoil on it. I took it off when I did my water pump just to see the difference and PROMPTLY put it back on. It got the boat on plane faster, made the drive pitch have way better effect on the boat stability and helped it come "out of the hole" better with less cavitation.
I'm actually glad you posted this as I've been thinking of adding one to my boat, but really haven't been able to find anyone to give me a solid answer as to how well they worked. I've been debating on either a hydrofoil, or just adding some tabs! I'm a bit light in the front end and can't seem to stop the boat from porpoising at higher speeds.
@@1D10CRACY our boat didn't have porpoising issues but I'm sure it will help! Ours had issues coming on plane without it because, being an OLD ('73 if I remember correctly) aluminum boat it was riveted together. All the parts on the deep-v hull like the lifting strakes were riveted on aluminum forms and had exposed domed rivet heads like the early riveted aluminum planes! They caused some drag obviously and the hydrofoil helped pull it up out of the water quicker to get all that crap out of the water line.
Trim tabs are definitely nice but won't help for the out if the hole cavitation. Also unless you have powered ones you suffer the issues with them affecting the boat performance at speeds other then what they are optimally set for. Powered ones are awesome but expensive! You also have to punch holes in the transoms for the bolts and to power them. If you have other issues though like her riding crooked in the water tabs are the only way to fix that.
For well under 100$ the hydrofoil is probably the best place to start! Stingray Hydrofoil has nice ones. Just checked in on them and they appear to be cheaper from their online company store then other places like Bass Pro! Not sure if they charge shipping though.
When I'm servicing the lower unit, I run a strap with a cam-lock buckle around the upper & lower halves. Especially helps when assembling because you can use it to take the weight while you get those two nuts on with limited access. Handy when taking it apart too.
Forgot to mention the o-ring on the end of the drive shaft below the splines. The shaft seal on 1974 pre-alpha stayed in the upper unit and the o-ring sitting on top of it made it look like the same style seal as in the lower water pump housing only broken. The kit you referenced comes with the upper shaft o-ring.
very much like an outboard only way easier as you don't have to fight the shift linkage
Great job of explaining procedure. Thank you.
Great explanation! Just what I was looking for:)
Wonderful. Good job. thanks. Idiocracy!!! Water? like from the toilet......
Mine is been kicking my ass for the past 2 days it just doesn't want to go back in
Nice video thank you!
I noticed you have an Alpha 1 gimbal housing. Did the boat come that way? Thinking of swapping my old MC-1 housing out so I have trim tabs!
The boat is a mix of parts between two boats. A lot of the parts came from a boat that was dated 1984 if I remember. I used some of the parts from that boat to accommodate an engine swap. But this has been years ago and I don't remember the details.
Thanks for the video! Do you have part numbers for the replacement parts?
Very nice video! Clear explanation, and to the point! Will be doing this very shortly. Finally got my bellows kit and gimble bearing installed and tried my boat for the first time since purchasing it a couple yrs back, and it started to overheat after only about 5-8 mins of being in the water at the boat launch...I'm a rookie at this boating stuff, so i guess i should have just done all this at the same time! My unit should be the MC-1 as its a 1976 Merc 165hp inline 6.
Also, does the gear oil have to be drained in order to seperate lower from upper?
I'm not sure if you could get by without draining the gear oil or not. I always do as it is just a good time to change it. The one in this video sounds like the same setup, it was a Chevy inline 6, 165 w/ an MC1. 1977 Hammnd, but it now has a Ford 302 in it.
@@1D10CRACY ok, i guess good time to change the fluid anyways!
Yup, same setup. Thank you! Im going to pull it this weekend before ordering parts
my base of the pump has no groove for oring , and the shaft base looks different as well , what am i missing
Did you say you can use an Alpha lower unit on a pre-alpha??
Yes, just nothing Gen II. An Alpha lower unit will fit on an MC1.
I am having trouble with a screw on the lower unit. I cannot get to it to remove it. That is the only thing keeping me from completing the project! Any thoughts. It's a 1984 Mercruiser Stern Drive
The drive in this video is pre alpha drive, mc1 drive, mercruiser 1 drive. The alpha wasn't released until 83.
Mine lost gear patterns after putting back the drive, as in when I shift to beau trap it’s still in gear etc. any tips on where to begin? I’m so confused as I thought I was putting it back the same way.
Sounds like the shift linkage isn't in the shoe.
You need to have an assistant move the shift lever back and forth a bit while you push the lower unit on that last couple inches, It's close to impossible if you don't do that, mine is anyway and do not force it on!!
Link to parts please..been working on my 79 .and I need impeller kit
I don't have a working link, but part numbers are in the description.
How I can fine the part number ?
The description. The link doesn't work anymore, but part numbers are listed.
That doesn't look like a MC-1, My MC-1 doesnt have the trim switches on the sides
There are no switches on this one either. There is a tilt sensor and a trim limit switch on the gimbal housing. amzn.to/3Cwc42t
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