Almost 7 years later and this video is still great. I had the marina change my cable so I can't speak for the entire process, but when I got it back it did not shift correctly. So I watched this video and it showed how to adjust the cables after installation. I followed these directions and now it shifts perfect. I should tell the marina to show this video to their kids working on boats.
This video saved me hundreds if not over $1,000 installing this myself. It takes some elbow grease, but can be done by anyone without any mechanical knowledge!
Thank you. Im a new boater and my mechanical experience is pretty good. With the details of your video I was able to do this without calling a service tech saving me thousand of dollars. Thanks again.
Without a doubt, the most instructive and easiest to follow video for this tricky job. Thank you so much SEI, I'll be ordering my parts from you in the very near future. Regards, HDP, owner of a 1987 Larson with 4.3l Mercruiser, Japan Sea, Kyoto, Japan.
I know this videos old (and so is my boat) but this is great. Very through and explains everything clearly without being overwhelming. I just fixed my shift cables in a few minutes and saved a trip to the mechanic. Thanks so much!
Very helpful! I purchased our replacement cable from SEI due to this video, and will look to them for our future parts needs as well. Glastron 249 with Mercruiser 5.7.
This fixed my shifting issues. Hy boat would stall going into reverse. Didn’t even replace my shift cable. Just followed the adjustments you made after the new one was installed and boom. Shifts smooth now. Thank you!!!!
I came here to try and understand how the cutout switch works as well as the various cables. My engine was stalling when I shifted into forward and I didn't know why. Thanks so much for the detailed walkthrough of all steps, turns out my cable to the outdrive needed lubrication, your video showed me where it was and how to remove the end so that I could just spray lube (WD-40) into it. I put the end back on and worked the cable back and forth many times and now it's moving freely. Turns out a stuck or hard to slide cable will cause the cut-out switch to engage, killing the engine. I'm back on the water now and the boat is shifting perfectly. Many, many thanks!!!
Great video and straight forward instructional process. I just bought a used boat and the bellows need replacing (torn). Your video helped me immensely.
Thanks for a great video! A couple of additional notes: At 1:37 in you undo the two set screws on the plastic cable end inside the boat to slide the cable end guide off. The small cylindrical metal insert in the cable end guide could spin inside the plastic cable end if a lot of torque were applied to only one set screw at a time, and this could kink the cable. So if those don't come loose quite easily you really need to use two wrenches, one on each set screw simultaneously. (Also on re-installation the same idea applies. Your video shows the insert I'm talking about clearly in the re-installation part. ) Also be careful not to drop that little metal insert into the bilge when you draw the cable core out of the plastic end. After 3:10 when you remove the shift bellows clamp and before 3:35 when you draw the cable jacket out you left out an important setp: You must remove the curly-cue cable sheath before you try to pull out the cable jacket. To see the sheath I am talking about go to 6:57 in the video where you show re-installing it. It is the sheath that keeps the cable jacket from being damaged by the exhaust. If one fails to take this step you can get pretty jambed up trying to get the cable jacket out of the boat. Otherwise thanks so much for a great how-to video.
*HINT* first thank you SEI. Bought your shift cable on Amazon, then looked up a video. Didn't even know I got your shift cable until after I watched this video. *HINT* have some be your third hand and to sit in boat. Will help alot!! Last well made product, will be buying more.
this will help me on my 1st sterndrive boat as I get one I will use the videos as reference on fixin my 1st sterndrive thanks for the good vids I will learn a lot over time on sterndrive care as im gettin my 1st sterndrive boat soon as im an old salty I knew what to do on this stuff on sterndrives as I will learn fast in fixing the sterndrives thanks guys for making this videos for us old salts like me this will help a lot thanks guys
Awesome video! The only thing worth mentioning is the protective wrap on the old cable should be removed before attempting to remove the sheath or it will never fit through the opening in the bell housing.
This is great video. Do you think you could do one from pre alpha with the cable on the other side. Too this kit, this video sure did help after I figured the housing difference. Thanks
i replaced my cable with sei kit and my 03 bayliner 3.0 mercury has the lower cable on the top and the helm cable on the bottom.. upon checking for play in the cable it.has about 1 and 1/12 inches of play? is that to.much ? and after i adjusted it it only goes into foward gear and if i try reverse its really hard and engine cuts off ?? im worried if that shift lever came out of place when i reinstalled the drive back on ? or if i twisted or damaged the inner cable when running through the outer jacket ? im hoping its just an adjustinmet thingy
Hello i would like to know how do you get the shift cable to turn as you screw it back in i have a 86 mercruiser and the cable does not spin around some help please thank
Great video, but I had a few things to add that may not be as obvious to the first timers. First, make sure the stern drive is centered before trying to remove the lower unit (duh). Had a heck of a time getting the cable guide routed thru on a 5.7L merc. (Tried the advised method but it wouldn't feed thru the cable guide?) Had to use a wire fish (carefully) to get it routed correctly. The new cable end was more rigid than the original which caused some routing issues as well. Lastly, I inadvertently knocked out the little plastic inside sleeve which, when missing, eventually if not immediately results in a leak. No way to get to it short of pulling the engine. So I took a piece of garden hose which was a little more rigid and smaller outer diameter than the average hose. Slipped the sleeve with a little silicone around the lip and pushed it into place with the piece of hose. Also, if you have one of those cheap remote inspection camera's, it helped a lot....
How do I know if it's a standard rotation Drive or not? The standard rotation, clockwise or counter clockwise? That would be really useful information to put in here, thank you.
Hey man I have a problem . When I go into forward or reverse my shift interrupt isn't moving either direction and it isn't bound up I can easily move the interrupt
This is an excellent video, but I just removed the sterndrive and the gimbal pins. Yes, it was an extra procedure, but I found it less aggravating. Working in that tight space in the gimbal is difficult for me, since I'm a klutz. Oh, and I would like to add that a 9/16 sparkplug socket in another 5/8 deep well socket worked in place of the extended deep well socket that was used in this video.
I just tried it, and when I try to screw in the shift cable, it wants to bind, it won't rotate all the cable. I wish I would of screwed it on the bell house first the feed it through the transom.
This is a great video. The string line trick really helped installation. But FYI... this video skips about 10 hours of work between 4:39 and 4:40 - trying to get the damn cable through the boot, lol :)
I don't have a barrel in the upper cable to turn. The cable also is a red plastic not black . Looks like where the barrel would be I have a clip with 3 positions??? My problem is after installing a replacement out drive I'm not fully locking in forward.
Ive tried to adjust my cable exactly like you show woth the 6 inches and everything and it makes it so far out of whack that the neutral shutoff kicks in when i try to shift into forward or reverse.
The neutral is triggered by too much tension between the two cables. Potentially your shift cable is rusty (can try shooting rust penetrant down the sheath from the top side and cycle it a bunch), or your creating too much tension in the step where he is taking up the slack. Either would cause the shutoff to trigger.
So, new lower shift cable AND remote shift cable. All adjustments done per spec. With the lower shift cable adjusted to 6" from brass barrel to the cable end, pin on the shift plate set all the way down, shifter in forward, I don't get engagement on the prop turning ccw. I get a "clack clack clack clack". If I adjust the lower shift cable barrel out another 1/4 inch or so, then I get good a good solid lock CCW on the prop in forward gear, free spinning prop in neutral, and good solid lock on the prop CW in reverse. Do I have something out of kilter in the outdrive, could the lower shift cable be faulty? Perhaps some problem with the shift plate? Basic question is, should I run it that way?
+Joe Tipton I have run it this year with cable set as I indicated, adjusted slightly out of spec. It shifts easily and cleanly i fwd and reverse. The only thing I need to watch is that when I put it in neutral from fwd , I can't half-ass it. It's got to be all the way against the shifter lock.
I can only get 5 inches on the shift lincage and the barrel at 9:09 do I have a wrong part or is it put in wrong it looks the same as the one in the video
I have a 1986 Mercruiser Alpha one Gen one. Purchased the SEI lower shift cable from Amazon. I'm having a problem (Per this Video) running the inner cable thru the threaded side of the shift slider. The nob or nut on the end will not go into the slider so that I can put the screw in and then hook up the safety wire. What am I doing wrong?? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks so much!! Mel
Hello, I am having more than a few problems with this topic. I have watched several of the Mercruiser Shift Cable adjustment/instillation and can't get it right. One video shows the guy go over to the remote and put it in forward. In another it dosen't. Here is my problem: I changed the sterndrive cable, and everything went fine. I also changed some vinyl by the remote, so I took it apart and it was no good. I took one from my other boat, cutting the four wires. It seems to work well now, not jammed anymore. I have tried to adjust the cables probable 2 dozen times and it either goes into forward or reverse. Not both. My cables are actually showing in the wrong place, meaning that what you are calling the lower cable is on top, and vice a versa. Could I have forgotten to put the remote back together completely, or correctly? Can anyone help?
James Foster Please email tech@sterndrive.cc and ask for the shift adjustment document. That will describe how to check the control for the proper output and slop as well as any other shifting issues.
I unhook my shift cable to change the bellows , I hook the shift back after replacing the bellows, I check the 6" from the barrel to the center of the nut. in forward. now it will not kill the motor before going in gear. check the kill switch it will kill the motor. the shift plate is not moving enough to move the kill switch, I have clean everything check for anything that might keep the shift plate from moving, It moves easy left and right by hand and kills the motor. but not went shifting . I have been working on this for 3 days help
One more question is the 6 Inch lower cable adjustment the same for a Gen 1 as a Gen 2? Not sure what Alpha generation you are working on if there is a difference. Mines a A1G1.
@@justinwebb8408 Thanks, 6 inches one the lower cable leaves me with no locking in reverse. Any idea about my red upper remote cable with no barrel. It's a US marine controller.
Shift bellows hole leaking in water. USING A SPARK PLUG SOCKET IS A BAD IDEA. I tied to unscrew the shift cable with a spark plug wrench and it slipped around. Warning: This is a soft brass nut. Easy to strip out. My spark plug socket appears to be a little larger then the shift cable. Also it had some lock tight on it. I wanted to reuse the shift cable and just replace the shift bellows. So I ordered the SHIFT CABLE REMOVEAL TOOL (just a socket but must be metric or something, a 19mm fits the back side or it), the shift cable bellow, and a gasket set. Great service by SEI, ordered Sunday night, got today Thursday from Florida to Texas. Tip: The entire shift cable jacket has to turn when loosing the shift cable nut. This requires removing it at the engine and pulling it out straight so it can turn. I also had to remove the shift bellow by cutting it off. The shift cable tools worked great and did not slip even though the nut was rounded some. I had a lot of trouble getting the brass end of the shift cable through the shift bellow small end. You must stick the shift cable through the housing and through the shift bellow and on through the transom to the engine before tightening the nut.Tip: I took the part removed from the shift cable at the engine and stuck it into the bellow and screwed it into the shift cable. I then had something to pull with to pull the cable through the rubber bellow. Be careful and don't bend it. I greased it but it took a lot of effort to do this. When it got pass the brass end piece and to the rubber part it pulled easily. DON'T THINK YOU CAN JUST STICK IT THROUGH THE NEW BELLOWS. CAN'T BE DONE WITHOUT A LOT OF EFFORT. I finally got it all done and the cable is ready to attach back to the engine. I've spend $61 so far and not $600 as quoted. Good so far. Good video but not just that easy.
Spark plug wrench is 5/8" cable end is 9/16". Yes it can round off the brass nut. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a set of go through sockets and ratchet and use the correct size. Somewhere along the line you will use them again.
@@chuckroast5735 I took an old, deep, 9/16", 3/8" drive socket and braised a black iron 1/2" pipe nipple to it to make it longer. Grabbed it with a pipe wrench to un-screw the old cable. Waiting on the new cable from UPS now.
I just tried the install, when I tried to screw in the shift cable, it wants to bind. It won't rotate all through the cable. I don't know if this happened to others, but I wished I would of screw it in before passing it through the transom. Even better if the bell house is removed when changing the bellows. What do you guy think? Thoughts SEI
I had the same issue. I was removing my existing shift cable (intending to re-use it) and it bound up so much it tisted the cable which is now forcing me to buy a new one. My concern is it binding as you're saying during reinstallation and ruining yet another cable.
@@ryangriffith2774 there is a video, someone removed the shift cable by just slightly bending it along. But, I decided to remove the bell housing and paint everything. I did screw it first, feed the cable and then reinstall housing. But the parts dealer will call you back to give their advise. They said to have someone twist the other cable end as you screw it in.
I installed and adjusting the shift cable. It locks in fwd at the prop( counter rotation). Turns freely in neutral. But the prop doesn't lock in reverse. Does anyone have any ideal what is wrong?
Hi , when I try to tighten the brass cable nut it does not want to turn from the tension from the cable , and the cable is not turning either , there is no binding any where, you seem to tighten the nut with ease, whats the trick , the nut keeps springing back as the cable is not turning, i dont want to damage the cable. thanks
I usually pull on the cable from in the boat to get it initially started in the threads as far as i can, then i leave it as straight as i can inside the boat and then tighten it from outside. If you have a helper they can rotate the cable inside the boat as you tighten it.
thanks, i will try that , the only issue i see if i leave the cable straight as i can , it will be difficult to re route via the y pipe after the nut is fully tightened no ? i did have a helper he was useless :) will have to find someone else
I figured out what you said , I went ahead and just straightened the cable and rotated in a circular motion and it seems to turn now , i just need another helper, will keep you posted, thanks
no problem. but to answer your question just that first corner is difficult, so you have to let it make the first corner then you can have the cable straightish and pointing towards the starboard side. The rest of the routing is easy.
It's unlikely the cable would be the wrong one. They are all the same from 1972 to today for the alpha style drives. Is the drive on the boat while trying to get 6 inches? Can you manually shift the drive into forward and reverse just by pushing in and out on the cable? If not, that would suggest when the drive was put on the roller slipped out of the shift slide. That would be my first guess.
@@johnhiggs325 I couldnt either..notice the video was edited at that point :) ... so I brought the cable over to the grinder...beveled the leading edge...it still wasnt easiy , but the hardest part is getting it started...which that little trick did. still had no trouble locking it down with the jam nut ...plenty of meat left a I just took off a mm or less
I thought that Standard rotation means, with control in Fwd. The prop moves CW...you are showing just the opposite in 12:38...this is confusing as hell! I'm trying to install a SEI lower right now and am having lots of problems.
I pulled the bellhousing off of my bravo 3 and I am totally baffled by how the shift cable is inserted into it. It appears at least to me that the shift cable housing is pressed into the bellhousing from the back. Can anyone confirm this?
@@justinwebb8408 I just used an inspection camera to view behind my motor looking at the transom gimbal mount on the inside of the engine cavity. Not looking good.
This repair can be done without removing the lower unit and for the cost of the shift boot/bellows adhesive. Made this repair on my Mercruiser shift boot today. Takes two people less than an hour to complete the job. Estimate I saved roughly $1500 in labor and I'll be on the water tomorrow vs. weeks waiting for an open spot at the repair yard. Can provide instructions if anyone needs assistance.
Hi... Do you need to drain the lower unit gear oil before starting this job and taking off the outdrive? Also, my merc has been slamming into forward gear pretty hard. I know alot of people say its supposed to, but i feel like mine is pretty jarring (excessively... it makes the whole boat jolt). The RPM's are normal. Do you think changing this lower gear shift cable would really make shifting into forward/reverse gear smoother? Sorry for so many questions, this video has seemed to be the best yet and its been tough to get a straight answer. I plan on buying the lower gear shift cable anyway, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Tammy Eich The problem with the metal clamp is that no retail customers have the right tool to install it and it can easily be crushed and destroyed with the wrong tool. The nylon tie is actually used as a fuel line clamp on outboards and has a rounded head so it it makes contact all the way around.
Almost 7 years later and this video is still great. I had the marina change my cable so I can't speak for the entire process, but when I got it back it did not shift correctly. So I watched this video and it showed how to adjust the cables after installation. I followed these directions and now it shifts perfect.
I should tell the marina to show this video to their kids working on boats.
This video saved me hundreds if not over $1,000 installing this myself. It takes some elbow grease, but can be done by anyone without any mechanical knowledge!
Thank you. Im a new boater and my mechanical experience is pretty good. With the details of your video I was able to do this without calling a service tech saving me thousand of dollars. Thanks again.
Without a doubt, the most instructive and easiest to follow video for this tricky job. Thank you so much SEI, I'll be ordering my parts from you in the very near future. Regards, HDP, owner of a 1987 Larson with 4.3l Mercruiser, Japan Sea, Kyoto, Japan.
I know this videos old (and so is my boat) but this is great. Very through and explains everything clearly without being overwhelming. I just fixed my shift cables in a few minutes and saved a trip to the mechanic. Thanks so much!
Very helpful! I purchased our replacement cable from SEI due to this video, and will look to them for our future parts needs as well. Glastron 249 with Mercruiser 5.7.
This fixed my shifting issues. Hy boat would stall going into reverse. Didn’t even replace my shift cable. Just followed the adjustments you made after the new one was installed and boom. Shifts smooth now. Thank you!!!!
I came here to try and understand how the cutout switch works as well as the various cables. My engine was stalling when I shifted into forward and I didn't know why. Thanks so much for the detailed walkthrough of all steps, turns out my cable to the outdrive needed lubrication, your video showed me where it was and how to remove the end so that I could just spray lube (WD-40) into it. I put the end back on and worked the cable back and forth many times and now it's moving freely. Turns out a stuck or hard to slide cable will cause the cut-out switch to engage, killing the engine. I'm back on the water now and the boat is shifting perfectly.
Many, many thanks!!!
I will be installing a new shift cable soon and this video will help me greatly. Can't wait to get back on the water. Thank you!
Great video and straight forward instructional process. I just bought a used boat and the bellows need replacing (torn). Your video helped me immensely.
Thanks for a great video!
A couple of additional notes: At 1:37 in you undo the two set screws on the plastic cable end inside the boat to slide the cable end guide off. The small cylindrical metal insert in the cable end guide could spin inside the plastic cable end if a lot of torque were applied to only one set screw at a time, and this could kink the cable. So if those don't come loose quite easily you really need to use two wrenches, one on each set screw simultaneously. (Also on re-installation the same idea applies. Your video shows the insert I'm talking about clearly in the re-installation part. ) Also be careful not to drop that little metal insert into the bilge when you draw the cable core out of the plastic end.
After 3:10 when you remove the shift bellows clamp and before 3:35 when you draw the cable jacket out you left out an important setp: You must remove the curly-cue cable sheath before you try to pull out the cable jacket. To see the sheath I am talking about go to 6:57 in the video where you show re-installing it. It is the sheath that keeps the cable jacket from being damaged by the exhaust. If one fails to take this step you can get pretty jambed up trying to get the cable jacket out of the boat.
Otherwise thanks so much for a great how-to video.
Thanks for that reply. Helped me find a kink.
*HINT* first thank you SEI. Bought your shift cable on Amazon, then looked up a video. Didn't even know I got your shift cable until after I watched this video. *HINT* have some be your third hand and to sit in boat. Will help alot!! Last well made product, will be buying more.
Great Video. Thank you. You talked about a "shift assist" on the upper shift cable. Do you have a part number for that and is it an item you sell?
this will help me on my 1st sterndrive boat as I get one I will use the videos as reference on fixin my 1st sterndrive thanks for the good vids I will learn a lot over time on sterndrive care as im gettin my 1st sterndrive boat soon as im an old salty I knew what to do on this stuff on sterndrives as I will learn fast in fixing the sterndrives thanks guys for making this videos for us old salts like me this will help a lot thanks guys
Awesome video! The only thing worth mentioning is the protective wrap on the old cable should be removed before attempting to remove the sheath or it will never fit through the opening in the bell housing.
Very True
This is great video. Do you think you could do one from pre alpha with the cable on the other side. Too this kit, this video sure did help after I figured the housing difference. Thanks
I know this is video 8 yrs old but such a great help. Everything worked out great. Thank you SEI!!
Great video! Do you need to reinstall the out drive back in to place before you adjust the shift cable length?
great video. Can you tell me if the Bravo III installation is the same as the Alpha? Does the bell housing need to come off?
Great video job....is this shift cable adjustment the same way for Bravo 3 with dual counter rotating props?
Thanks! What way should the cable route back? I didnt use the plastic wire as snake wire.
So if its a Counter-rotating drive, (yes I purchased it from SEI), do you still make the 4 turns of the shift cable barrel after you obtain the fit?
One of the best how to do videos I have ever watched.
That was really good. You helped me a lot.
Great video, especially the adjustment info.
i replaced my cable with sei kit and my 03 bayliner 3.0 mercury has the lower cable on the top and the helm cable on the bottom.. upon checking for play in the cable it.has about 1 and 1/12 inches of play? is that to.much ? and after i adjusted it it only goes into foward gear and if i try reverse its really hard and engine cuts off ?? im worried if that shift lever came out of place when i reinstalled the drive back on ? or if i twisted or damaged the inner cable when running through the outer jacket ? im hoping its just an adjustinmet thingy
Excellent video! Wow these SEI videos are high quality, thanks!
Very good tutorial it really helped me a lot thank you God bless you brother
Thank you. I repaired the Merc to my neighbour. Works perfekt!
Fantastic video, thanks so much!
Does the copper Nut that goes in the lower suppose to seat all the way?
Very nice and clear video in preparation of my cable install, thanks
Thank you so much for this video!! Cannot believe people would actually thumb this down..
Bit of a gigantic skip when the out drive is just back on magically.... I suspect that's people's complaint
Hey. thanks for a great video. What kind of wire do you use as "snake" and what is that blue grease you put on the shiftbracket //Marcus
Great video. You listed a torque wrench as a necessary tool, which I have several, but I didn't see where you used it.
I believe, the torque wrench fits on the special tool for the shift cable, but you can use a 3/4 socket on the end if you don't have a torque wrench
Okay so what do you do if you still don’t have full lock at the prop in reverse and you adjusted that screw for the cable up
Outstanding instruction.
Hello i would like to know how do you get the shift cable to turn as you screw it back in i have a 86 mercruiser and the cable does not spin around some help please thank
Great video, but I had a few things to add that may not be as obvious to the first timers. First, make sure the stern drive is centered before trying to remove the lower unit (duh). Had a heck of a time getting the cable guide routed thru on a 5.7L merc. (Tried the advised method but it wouldn't feed thru the cable guide?) Had to use a wire fish (carefully) to get it routed correctly. The new cable end was more rigid than the original which caused some routing issues as well. Lastly, I inadvertently knocked out the little plastic inside sleeve which, when missing, eventually if not immediately results in a leak. No way to get to it short of pulling the engine. So I took a piece of garden hose which was a little more rigid and smaller outer diameter than the average hose. Slipped the sleeve with a little silicone around the lip and pushed it into place with the piece of hose. Also, if you have one of those cheap remote inspection camera's, it helped a lot....
How about explaining how to set the interrupter lever?
How do I know if it's a standard rotation Drive or not? The standard rotation, clockwise or counter clockwise? That would be really useful information to put in here, thank you.
Clear and concise.
eh? this works for an alpha 1 gen 2 4 cylinder 3.0 lx ? as a universal cable adjustment... thanks
Awesome job on the video. Thanks guys!
Hey man I have a problem . When I go into forward or reverse my shift interrupt isn't moving either direction and it isn't bound up I can easily move the interrupt
Very educational thanks
Excellent video.
This is an excellent video, but I just removed the sterndrive and the gimbal pins. Yes, it was an extra procedure, but I found it less aggravating. Working in that tight space in the gimbal is difficult for me, since I'm a klutz. Oh, and I would like to add that a 9/16 sparkplug socket in another 5/8 deep well socket worked in place of the extended deep well socket that was used in this video.
Nice work, thank you
Great explanation 👍👍👍
Jose it is important to have that spring it's what allows your lower unit to shift in and out of gear without damaging the unit itself
does anyone know if the lower shift cable should have play to move freely or should it be stiff
He makes it look a lot easier than it actually is, but a good how to video.
I just tried it, and when I try to screw in the shift cable, it wants to bind, it won't rotate all the cable. I wish I would of screwed it on the bell house first the feed it through the transom.
@@rlilley1775 I had another person rotating it while I threaded it in
@@alexpardee8897 wow. Great ideal. But My wife didn't seem so willing to help. Hot in Texas
Informative Video, but how did the drive magically attach itself when u wer adjusting the cables
That must have been when they used the Drive Mount Kit that's listed at the beginning of the video because that was not shown either.
This is a great video. The string line trick really helped installation. But FYI... this video skips about 10 hours of work between 4:39 and 4:40 - trying to get the damn cable through the boot, lol :)
What instructions would you have when the cable is seized in the stern housing?
chain saw
I don't have a barrel in the upper cable to turn. The cable also is a red plastic not black . Looks like where the barrel would be I have a clip with 3 positions??? My problem is after installing a replacement out drive I'm not fully locking in forward.
Ive tried to adjust my cable exactly like you show woth the 6 inches and everything and it makes it so far out of whack that the neutral shutoff kicks in when i try to shift into forward or reverse.
The neutral is triggered by too much tension between the two cables. Potentially your shift cable is rusty (can try shooting rust penetrant down the sheath from the top side and cycle it a bunch), or your creating too much tension in the step where he is taking up the slack. Either would cause the shutoff to trigger.
So, new lower shift cable AND remote shift cable. All adjustments done per spec. With the lower shift cable adjusted to 6" from brass barrel to the cable end, pin on the shift plate set all the way down, shifter in forward, I don't get engagement on the prop turning ccw. I get a "clack clack clack clack". If I adjust the lower shift cable barrel out another 1/4 inch or so, then I get good a good solid lock CCW on the prop in forward gear, free spinning prop in neutral, and good solid lock on the prop CW in reverse. Do I have something out of kilter in the outdrive, could the lower shift cable be faulty? Perhaps some problem with the shift plate? Basic question is, should I run it that way?
Hi Eric, I am having this same issue with my 3.0 Mercruiser. Did you ever find a solution?
+Joe Tipton I have run it this year with cable set as I indicated, adjusted slightly out of spec. It shifts easily and cleanly i fwd and reverse. The only thing I need to watch is that when I put it in neutral from fwd , I can't half-ass it. It's got to be all the way against the shifter lock.
your video got a newbie like myself thru it-thanks!
I can only get 5 inches on the shift lincage and the barrel at 9:09 do I have a wrong part or is it put in wrong it looks the same as the one in the video
I have a 1986 Mercruiser Alpha one Gen one. Purchased the SEI lower shift cable from Amazon. I'm having a problem (Per this Video) running the inner cable thru the threaded side of the shift slider. The nob or nut on the end will not go into the slider so that I can put the screw in and then hook up the safety wire. What am I doing wrong?? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks so much!! Mel
What gauge wire (green wire in video) are you using as a guide wire?
nevermind - i see the post from Darren Horst ( weed wacker line potentially)
Hello, I am having more than a few problems with this topic. I have watched several of the Mercruiser Shift Cable adjustment/instillation and can't get it right. One video shows the guy go over to the remote and put it in forward. In another it dosen't. Here is my problem: I changed the sterndrive cable, and everything went fine. I also changed some vinyl by the remote, so I took it apart and it was no good. I took one from my other boat, cutting the four wires. It seems to work well now, not jammed anymore. I have tried to adjust the cables probable 2 dozen times and it either goes into forward or reverse. Not both. My cables are actually showing in the wrong place, meaning that what you are calling the lower cable is on top, and vice a versa. Could I have forgotten to put the remote back together completely, or correctly? Can anyone help?
James Foster Please email tech@sterndrive.cc and ask for the shift adjustment document. That will describe how to check the control for the proper output and slop as well as any other shifting issues.
I unhook my shift cable to change the bellows , I hook the shift back after replacing the bellows, I check the 6" from the barrel to the center of the nut. in forward. now it will not kill the motor before going in gear. check the kill switch it will kill the motor. the shift plate is not moving enough to move the kill switch, I have clean everything check for anything that might keep the shift plate from moving, It moves easy left and right by hand and kills the motor. but not went shifting . I have been working on this for 3 days help
Are you on land or in the water when checking it? The switch should not activate on land, only in the water.
thats a catchy intro song! whats the name of that song?
Nice video !!
What kind of wire did you use for your pullstring ??
weed wacker line
Looked like 12 gauge maybe 14... but the weed wacker line looks like it would work great..🤔
I used weed whacker line
Also you can fish the original metal cable from the engine to outdrive
That shift assist cylinder (I don´t have one) ; ---- is it just a one-way spring? or is it a two-way spring?
Two way spring.
@@DC-et4li Thanks
Hi can you tell me what the green feeder your using to feed lower shift cable thanks
Green feeder line
One more question is the 6 Inch lower cable adjustment the same for a Gen 1 as a Gen 2? Not sure what Alpha generation you are working on if there is a difference. Mines a A1G1.
it is the same for both.
@@justinwebb8408 Thanks, 6 inches one the lower cable leaves me with no locking in reverse. Any idea about my red upper remote cable with no barrel. It's a US marine controller.
Shift bellows hole leaking in water. USING A SPARK PLUG SOCKET IS A BAD IDEA. I tied to unscrew the shift cable with a spark plug wrench and it slipped around. Warning: This is a soft brass nut. Easy to strip out. My spark plug socket appears to be a little larger then the shift cable. Also it had some lock tight on it. I wanted to reuse the shift cable and just replace the shift bellows. So I ordered the SHIFT CABLE REMOVEAL TOOL (just a socket but must be metric or something, a 19mm fits the back side or it), the shift cable bellow, and a gasket set. Great service by SEI, ordered Sunday night, got today Thursday from Florida to Texas. Tip: The entire shift cable jacket has to turn when loosing the shift cable nut. This requires removing it at the engine and pulling it out straight so it can turn. I also had to remove the shift bellow by cutting it off. The shift cable tools worked great and did not slip even though the nut was rounded some. I had a lot of trouble getting the brass end of the shift cable through the shift bellow small end. You must stick the shift cable through the housing and through the shift bellow and on through the transom to the engine before tightening the nut.Tip: I took the part removed from the shift cable at the engine and stuck it into the bellow and screwed it into the shift cable. I then had something to pull with to pull the cable through the rubber bellow. Be careful and don't bend it. I greased it but it took a lot of effort to do this. When it got pass the brass end piece and to the rubber part it pulled easily. DON'T THINK YOU CAN JUST STICK IT THROUGH THE NEW BELLOWS. CAN'T BE DONE WITHOUT A LOT OF EFFORT. I finally got it all done and the cable is ready to attach back to the engine. I've spend $61 so far and not $600 as quoted. Good so far. Good video but not just that easy.
Spark plug wrench is 5/8" cable end is 9/16". Yes it can round off the brass nut. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a set of go through sockets and ratchet and use the correct size. Somewhere along the line you will use them again.
@@chuckroast5735 I took an old, deep, 9/16", 3/8" drive socket and braised a black iron 1/2" pipe nipple to it to make it longer. Grabbed it with a pipe wrench to un-screw the old cable. Waiting on the new cable from UPS now.
thank u good video
what happens when the prop doesn't lock ??
Any Bravo videos similar
Assume for counter rotating procedure is same just starting with box in reverse rather than forward?
Yes, that is correct.
I just tried the install, when I tried to screw in the shift cable, it wants to bind. It won't rotate all through the cable. I don't know if this happened to others, but I wished I would of screw it in before passing it through the transom. Even better if the bell house is removed when changing the bellows. What do you guy think? Thoughts SEI
I had the same issue. I was removing my existing shift cable (intending to re-use it) and it bound up so much it tisted the cable which is now forcing me to buy a new one. My concern is it binding as you're saying during reinstallation and ruining yet another cable.
@@ryangriffith2774 there is a video, someone removed the shift cable by just slightly bending it along. But, I decided to remove the bell housing and paint everything. I did screw it first, feed the cable and then reinstall housing. But the parts dealer will call you back to give their advise. They said to have someone twist the other cable end as you screw it in.
Thanx!
I LOVE STERN DRIVES!!!!
how do you lock the propeller in place?
You can wrap a bungi cord around the prop and to the cavitation plate to keep the prop tensioned counterclockwise, which is forward gear.
drill and tap for shift cable
super Video.
I installed and adjusting the shift cable. It locks in fwd at the prop( counter rotation). Turns freely in neutral. But the prop doesn't lock in reverse. Does anyone have any ideal what is wrong?
Did you ever find out the problem?
Did I miss the part where lower unit gets re-installed?
Hi , when I try to tighten the brass cable nut it does not want to turn from the tension from the cable , and the cable is not turning either , there is no binding any where, you seem to tighten the nut with ease, whats the trick , the nut keeps springing back as the cable is not turning, i dont want to damage the cable. thanks
I usually pull on the cable from in the boat to get it initially started in the threads as far as i can, then i leave it as straight as i can inside the boat and then tighten it from outside. If you have a helper they can rotate the cable inside the boat as you tighten it.
thanks, i will try that , the only issue i see if i leave the cable straight as i can , it will be difficult to re route via the y pipe after the nut is fully tightened no ? i did have a helper he was useless :) will have to find someone else
I figured out what you said , I went ahead and just straightened the cable and rotated in a circular motion and it seems to turn now , i just need another helper, will keep you posted, thanks
no problem. but to answer your question just that first corner is difficult, so you have to let it make the first corner then you can have the cable straightish and pointing towards the starboard side. The rest of the routing is easy.
just an update , I turned the cable from inside as you suggested and started the tightening by itself with a helper. all is good , thanks for the tip
I can’t get 6” even with rotation of barrel. What do I do now? Is it possible the cable is the wrong one?
It's unlikely the cable would be the wrong one. They are all the same from 1972 to today for the alpha style drives. Is the drive on the boat while trying to get 6 inches? Can you manually shift the drive into forward and reverse just by pushing in and out on the cable? If not, that would suggest when the drive was put on the roller slipped out of the shift slide. That would be my first guess.
What is perfect seal? What else can I use?
It's like an aviation gasket sealant. It's a brown thick liquid.
Great video. Question: Is the procedure the same on a Bravo 3 ?
no, the Bravo 3 is different. If you find a bravo 1 video, that will be the same.
It should move pretty easily. If it is hard to move it will cause staling when shifting out of gear.
How long did it take you to push the cable into the shift cable bellow !!!!
2 hours 😓
I couldn’t get my cable out! There a plastic retaining ring that will only come out through the inside of the boat.
I’ve been loosing my sh17 with this very thing. Shoving a football into your back pocket without ripping the pocket
@@johnhiggs325 I couldnt either..notice the video was edited at that point :) ... so I brought the cable over to the grinder...beveled the leading edge...it still wasnt easiy , but the hardest part is getting it started...which that little trick did. still had no trouble locking it down with the jam nut ...plenty of meat left a I just took off a mm or less
Why would one need to change this cable? What are the symptoms of a bad one?
The most common symptom would be stalling while shifting out of gear, and if bad enough, shifting into gear.
I thought that Standard rotation means, with control in Fwd. The prop moves CW...you are showing just the opposite in 12:38...this is confusing as hell! I'm trying to install a SEI lower right now and am having lots of problems.
D Wetick The prop locks the opposite way of rotation. If the prop locks counter clockwise, that means the engine will turn the prop clockwise.
D Wetick
Finger condom! We got a bleeder! Nice video.
I pulled the bellhousing off of my bravo 3 and I am totally baffled by how the shift cable is inserted into it. It appears at least to me that the shift cable housing is pressed into the bellhousing from the back. Can anyone confirm this?
Yes, the Bravo is completely different from this.
@@justinwebb8408 I just used an inspection camera to view behind my motor looking at the transom gimbal mount on the inside of the engine cavity. Not looking good.
Can someone give some water to this man.
Shift cable on a minnkota step paddle
This repair can be done without removing the lower unit and for the cost of the shift boot/bellows adhesive. Made this repair on my Mercruiser shift boot today. Takes two people less than an hour to complete the job. Estimate I saved roughly $1500 in labor and I'll be on the water tomorrow vs. weeks waiting for an open spot at the repair yard. Can provide instructions if anyone needs assistance.
How
Email to krussell302@outlook.com
can you email me instructions please npplus3@comcast.net
thank you
Great video. Nice job. However, I live in Arizona. That zip tie would only last about 3 months in the summer. Not good advice to use that.
They do make UV resistant zip ties. I live in the inland empire in CA, gets warm here too. Typically last about 5 years
I'm curios at what step the zip tie was snipped because that is not shown.
Hi... Do you need to drain the lower unit gear oil before starting this job and taking off the outdrive? Also, my merc has been slamming into forward gear pretty hard. I know alot of people say its supposed to, but i feel like mine is pretty jarring (excessively... it makes the whole boat jolt). The RPM's are normal. Do you think changing this lower gear shift cable would really make shifting into forward/reverse gear smoother? Sorry for so many questions, this video has seemed to be the best yet and its been tough to get a straight answer. I plan on buying the lower gear shift cable anyway, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
mgrocki
Good video but a zip-tie on the shift bellows is not a good repair. Mercruiser used a metal band clamp for a reason in that location.
Tammy Eich The problem with the metal clamp is that no retail customers have the right tool to install it and it can easily be crushed and destroyed with the wrong tool. The nylon tie is actually used as a fuel line clamp on outboards and has a rounded head so it it makes contact all the way around.
1/4 extension and a 5/16 swivel socket
Why not use the plastic clamp like the one that is used on the oil line.
So the drive magically goes back on? Other then that good vid.
yeah, total crap show