Bottom Bracket Overhaul On Vintage Raleigh Tourist Bike
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- čas přidán 25. 01. 2014
- This is my 1970 Made In England Raleigh Tourist Rod-Brake bike. I am slowly going through it and cleaning it up. In this video I overhaul the bottom bracket which was a mess. Loose bearings. There were some kind of seeds inside the bottom bracket shell. I opened it up, which included a stuck fixed cup. I cleaned all the parts. I replaced the bearings and put it back together.
In this video, I used a trick to remove the stuck fixed cup. I did another video with more detail on that: Watch that here: • How To Remove A Stuck ...
The specialized tools I used were:
Park Tool HCW-11 Slotted Bottom Bracket Adjustable Cup Wrench
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Park Tool HCW-5 Lock Ring Spanner
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
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I don’t have that tool so can you tell me a tool That’s not made for it but can do the job
What size were the bearings?
When I took my lower end off, I didn't bother removing the really tight threaded cup that the crank shaft slides out of. I just wiped out the inside, spraying it with W D 40 and some steel wool, then a coating of grease. I put the shaft, with new bearings, back in and put back together the other side. Done. I don't think you need to take the whole thing apart.
Thanks, RJ. As others mentioned, I found the large flat washer on the Sheldon Brown fixed cup removal tool was being gouged by the raised portion of the fixed cup, and spinning. So I used the large washer to sandwich the Park Tool cup tool firmly on to the fixed cup, which allowed me to use a cheater bar on the cup tool. That worked, after about 4 hours.
Hey, I just wanted to say thanks a lot ! I appreciate the time you take to make these videos. I got an older Raleigh and your videos helped me a lot especially on removing the bottom bracket fixed side with the home made bolt tool ! Thanks man !
Wow, what a great informative video on how to service the crank on my vintage raleigh!
What is amazing is that 45 year old plastic for the bearing races were still in great shape!
Best part of this video is when you find seeds in the bottom bracket. Super strange. Thx for the vid!
This videos are so useful. Great work! I'd leave the nut on the cotter pin (after loosening it) before hammering away to remove, so you don't destroy the threads if you must re-use it. Love these old bikes, no special tools required, just patience and determination, and lots of cleaning and re-greasing when you're getting it back together. After the crank arms are back on, you can re-adjust the BB if there's any change in the amount of play in the bearing load. Again, great videos!
Good video! Comprehensive and complete.
When cleaning and greasing the bottom bracket on my Raleigh, I don't take off the fixed cup. I can clean and inspect it with a flashlight. I don't replace the ball bearings. As long as everything passes inspection I use the originals. Instead of using grease on the threads, I use a good never seize compound. This way years later I don't need to use a wrench to remove the cup, finger tight on the outer locking ring and then just a snug on a wrench.
Thanks for making the video, good reminder on the direction the bearing holder should be installed. Also a good point you make an taping the tapered arm pin and having the nut hold it in place.
I have a 1973 Raleigh Triumph 10 speed I've been working on. After taking the bottom bracket apart for servicing all I could find inside were 20 loose bearings and no sign of anything else in the debris. I decided to go cage-less with 11 bearings like I had seen on one of your other videos. I also needed some help from your channel removing the cotter pinned crank for the first time.
Thanks!
THAT TRICK WITH THE HOMEMADE TOOL SAVED ME SO MANY HOURS OF CRYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for this straightforward tutorial. I referred to it a bunch of times while doing the BB on my 73 Glider. Found a bunch of oil-soaked bugs in mine.
Ricardo Testa, when I made this video I was still using GP grease regularly. I switched over later to using the blue marine grease in place of the general purpose grease. So wherever you see me use the GP grease, you can use the marine grease.
RJ The Bike Guy Yes but you can also use EP grease (extreme pressure) for this bottom bracket , any kind of grease is very good, i say it because i am working as an oiler of a company and i have seen many results using Extreme Pressure greases so just imagine what can do a very good grease in our bicycles. Greetings :)
I did a similar work on a '62 Legnano. It's a joy to ride these old bikes!
Love the home made BB tool. Thanks for the idea!!
that home made cup removal tool worked for me too,thanks for sharing .RJ you are the boss of the bosses !!!
Thanks for that, clear, informative and very helpful as I will need to be doing this shortly!
Cheers, Mike from the UK.
Thank you for this quick but thorough video! I will have to do this soon to an old three speed from 1958 I will be restoring, and this is going to be the point where I will find out if things are actually going to work out. But I figure they probably will, just like on your bike. :)
This video is awesome, very clear and straightforward…keep it up!
It's so easy to forget about the left-threading. After getting cotter pins out ('48 Raliegh POS, not sure why I am bothering) got one cup out then got to whacking on the other side, the wrong way of course, again. Not too badly, just enough to rouse it from its 65 year slumber. Will try the right (that is, the left) way soon. Maybe not necessary, as another commenter noted.
Enjoyed your videos, thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. Keep up the good work!
I had the same issue with Raleigh Record bottom cup instead of buying the park tool, I thought I'd go ahead and use the bolt trick. Worked like a charm!
New subscriber, Thanks for your videos RJ, youve helped teach me how to work on my bike and got me into cycling again!
Thank you so much! Your videos are great and they have saved me so much time.
That fixed cup method is a lot of help!
You could leave the nut on the pin and then use the hammer with some wood. Doesn't damage the thread and works great.
But release the nut a bit in order to loosen the pin?
2:41 Somebody invented the "beans in the computer" prank decades ago apparently LOL.
Saved me once again! Thanks RJ!
Thank you for making this video. It helped me a lot.
really helpful!!! thanks so much. and keep the videos coming!
When using a punch on the cotter pin, using a pair of vice grips to hold the punch saves your fingers and really lets you give the punch the good smack necessary to remove that damn pin. It was taking forever because I was so worried about hitting my fingers, I was not really hitting it hard enough. After switching to having the vice grips hold the punch, it came off in short order!
humber christop, I bought the whole bike for about $70 or $80 a few years ago. I am slowly going through it.
Interesting video, The other day i collected a bike for servicing and came back with two neglected bike with red rusty chains given to me so one of your other videos is going to be helpful. chains are having a good soak
That is good job and best method to the open .
man this is a class on how to call all those shiny metal thingies
Great job.
How do you clean the toothbrush from thinner and grease to later clean your mouth?! Im still getting that old bike taste on my mouth.
talk to your dentist!
cotter pins! they bring back old memories
Congratulation.... Raleigh the best of the best..
Do not use caged bearings, not plastic or metal. These are supposed to be assembled with 11 loose 1/4 th size bearings in each cup. Using less bearings wears it out quicker. The cages break and hang you up, requiring a rebuild. respectfully submitted.
Agreed - but if you're going to get rid of the cage, you will need to ADD balls in the re-build. Not that many (9 would be logical in this case) but enough to fill the race with a gap of one (1) ball as room for movement. Why they used cages in the first place is not mentioned - but would assume it saves time during assmbly (ball bearings cost nothing so it's' not materials) Why the cages have so much spacing in them (and thus putting much more pressure on each individual ball) is because there's no way to (securely) get a strong plastic holding cup for each ball if they were more densely packed. Ball-bearing loads, thrusts and stresses are quite complex according to design - the design in the bottom brackety of a vintage cycle is particularly crude in terms of contact and secure lubrication - that's why the sealed units are x100 better.
That was brilliant thanks a great video.
I heard if you plant those seeds you will sprout a new bike
Lol
Thank you for this fuss free tutorial.
Wow smart thinking on using that home made method...I thought I was the only one
I took out the fixed cup with a regular wrench held up by a clamp. I also used a hammer to let it loose.
Are these vintage raleigh compatible with a 110mm square taper bottom bracket? or can that bottom bracket be replace with a square taper one?
Thank You for the video. I need to rmeove the spindle and bottom braacket from my Raleigh Sprite. What do You call the big brush You used to clean the inside of the bottom bracket shell? Thanks!
I love rj's videos ! I didn't have anything to do so I decided to count the number of times he says go ahead ! 35 times 🤔
But did you actually went ahead then?
would have loved to see the entire bike afterwards!
Hello RJ,
I just saw this clip fir the first time. Crazy coincidence, I’m in the middle of a total restoration on the exact same bike today I finished polishing the chrome brake rods and brackets. Would love to share a pic of the finished product.
Very interesting. nice video -- Thanks
Really useful video, thanks!
This video is also good to watch and play a cheeky drinking game too. Every time RJ says “go ahead”, you drink ‘2 fingers’ of beer.
Spoiler alert: you’re going to need a shit tonne of beer!
SOS pads work great on cleaning old parts
The difference with my sport bike is that all the bearings are 3-in-1 oil. You need to oil it very often consequently because it runs out straight away but the bike is everso light to ride. I have not adjusted the crank yet which is why I watched the video but it also has an oiling hole should have a sprung ball bearing to keep it closed. That oiling point was jammed closed so I bashed it out the way 45 years ago - as a teenager I was reluctant to take the crank apart and damage what had been my dad's lovely bike. There were a few manufacturing faults on the bike from new.
I'd say give the bearing a quarter to half a turn of slack (lossen). Don't use the type of adjustable spanner (wrench) you are using they tend to be springy. Use a mole wrench or;
Even one of these pictured is stronger - I have one and I have a better one.
goo.gl/images/gYTqc6
Even a pipe wrench has a firmer grip although they rarely suit.
good idea. thanks
Don't hammer cotter pins on an unsupported crank, the BB bearings, spindle, and frame do not appreciate it.
...and everything was going so well up to that point! :-/
Alex Paulsen your right I can't imagine that's good for the cups and bearings
little pits from the balls could imprint on the bearing races and cones and may put little flat spots on the balls themselves. Very much appreciate your knowledge on this task though and time sir.
Alex Paulsen how do you support the crank, a chunk of wood underneath it?
@@minoutv7347 I use a cotter pin press, but if you really have to use a hammer, try a length of pipe underneath the crank like an old seatpost or something, or rest the crank flat on an anvil...
Thanks for a well presented video. Word of warning ... the last thing you should be doing is striking those cotter pins with a hammer! a sure way to destroy the bearing races. At least have the crank supported from underneath.There is a tool for pressing out the pins, which can be improvised using an auto ball joint splitter. A lot less destructive.
Hello RJ, do you know where to find head tube parts for a late 1960's Eaton's Glider I am working on. The races are a bit worn on the bearing rings.
Hello and thanks for the video! I just found an abandoned raleigh and I'd like to repair it. It seems they left it there for an issue with the bottom bracket. Now, I don't have the experience to go through all the steps of the procedure you showed (very clearly!), in particular the bearings fixing, and I'm afraid mechanics won't try to repair it because "it's too old". Would you be so kind to suggest a pre-made new bracket that could be easily installed in sostitution? Thank you so much in advance!
Hey RJ I’ve got a 1970s Raleigh stormy 3speed and I can’t find the correct nut for the rear wheel. It’s not the traditional nut size.. do you know what size it would be? Thx!
I have about 4 that I plan on keeping.
Great video thanks.especially the homemade tool.Many vintage saddles have holes on top ..perfect for letting in seeds and rain which enevitably mix with the grease.Ive sealed the seat post on my Raleigh with silicone,do you think this is a good idea or will i cause a condensation problem instead ?
I am sure it will be okay.
Thanks
I have vintage raleigh frame without the bb. Do you know any newer bb compatible with the old thread? I’m planning to use shimano 105, 5700 series which I have.
I cannot get one cotter pin out for anything. I’ve destroyed the threads. What are you replacing these with??
Interesting. I found the Sheldon Brown page that describes the fixed cup loosening tool (nut/bolt/washers). I applied penetrating oil to both sides then cranked the nut clockwise but the cup didn't budge. All that torque just crushed the washer. Bike is an 40-yr-old Rudge similar to Raleigh.
I have tightened it so hard that I mangled some of the washers. But I got it off. Just keep tightening. I haven't had this fail me yet.
I tried again w/ cheater bar, and actually stretched the bolt! I used 1/2". Will try 5/8" next but need another socket for back side. Also after a certain point seems like the compression against the cup exceeds the useful torque ie, it's pressing inward more than it's twisting outward.
Did you check out my video here? How To Remove A Stuck Fixed Cup From Bike Bottom Bracket
I just bought one that is rust free and mostly original. The crank wobbles. I just happened to have the tools in my vintage tools. I wondered for so long what they went to. 🤔lol also, what size bearing did you use and how different will it be from a later 70s one. One more, lol do I need to replace the pins or can I keep the originals?
RJ, did you find that crank new or just did a helluva clean-up job on it?
I just cleaned it.
Thank you for covering so many bike subjects, I wanted to ask you, if I wanna upgrade to a tapered bb , is it possible to just replace the axel or I'll have to buy the whole thing? thanks again
Do you have a vintage Raleigh 3 speed like this? If so, then there are some wrinkles.
No, I don't have a Raleigh I just mean in general could I just swap the axels and that's it?
Since you are giving me no details, I am just going to say no, you can't. Have a great day!
Good job! Helpful video.
I just got a 1973 built in may as per the rear hub. Can u recommend a parts source for these bikes?
ebay.
RJ what the tools u using to taking these vintage BB? I see u using a tool that has a very inward curve to grip the rectangular tab sticking out the BB. Please let me know where I can get one.
LeonVanzan Vang I have a link in the video comments.
Where can I get the special tools from for this job? Thanks
thank you soo much for this video! i'm always tuning up old raleighs, but the crank & bottom bracket are something i've avoided out of lack of understanding. i feel up to the challenge now, though that fixed cup is still pretty intimidating. also thanks for calling out the model numbers of the tools as you use them! But one question, replacing the bearings and not the plastic housing, i would've thought it would be the other way around. do the bearings wear out?
Yes, bearings wearings wear out. I might have been able to find a new set of caged bearings in metal cage that would have fit. Or I could have replaced the caged bearings with loose bearings. Replace Caged Bearings With Loose Bearings In Bottom Bracket Overhaul
I have a question about the two bering cups and locking ring. Does the crank side bering cup have a flange on the outer edge?
Usually.
Tightening is toward the rear wheel on both sides correct?
Why not reuse the ball bearings? and the Cotter Pin?
And any news on those apple seeds?
Yes, left side CW, and right side CCW. Regarding the apple seeds, my guess are, they fell through one of the pipes. Maybe some kid having a blast squeesing an apple through the seatpipe. Older frames are soldered in the crankbox and are open from there.
where did you get the cotter pin for the pedal? hardware store or bike store? i mushroomed mine out when i was getting it off. thanks!!!
ebay, or maybe Amazon.
What type of bottom bracket can I upgrade to
4:44
Can a flat washer unscrew a cup? A part of the surface of the cup protrudes. Why did you use a flat washer?
Gold
We’re all the early raleighs threaded in the same way? Specifically I was wondering about my 1983 Raleigh 502 frame.
No they aren't.
I was wondering could you put bearings back in without using the bearing cage on this type of bike.
Sure. czcams.com/video/BNfRD4ETDL0/video.html
0:55 jesus, you almost hit the cotter pin there!
Your method of removing the fixed cup with a nut & bolt is a great idea, but I can't help wondering if it might damage the machined inner surface of the cup, where the bearings roll?
Nope. It contacts inward of the bearing races.
Ah, that's ok then!
It's such a small but great project. The axle needs to be able to turn smoothly. How long have you owned the bike? Would you be completely rebuilding the bike?
I bought this bike about 5 years ago I think. I got it from a local guy via eBay. I think as this point I am going to clean it up, get it running smoothly. I don't want to repaint it though.
Hi RJ, would it be better to flood the area around the ball bearings with grease ? is too much grease better or not good ?
This is how much I use. Some people think I use too much as it is.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank RJ and also thank for other videos sharing your knowledge. Keep it up.
Great camerawork. Easy to follow :-) What'd you do with the seeds ?_?
That was over 4 years ago. Probably threw them out.
Good tip with the home made tool, but your choking that hammer and hitting threads, also use copper slip on the crank cups threads.
Was a little apprehensive when buying this with the few negative reviews on here, but this was exactly the kind of bike I was looking for. czcams.com/users/postUgkxn_jUDSlprMIeubd9rHdEAnv59nKfjcKv I plan to ride it on paved roadways and trails, and wanted a "Grocery Getter" so to speak. After receiving it (without any damage), I had it out of the box, and fully assembled in about 30 minutes. I did not have to look at the manual, and I'm glad because I did look at it after I got it together, and it looks like it's a manual for several different styles. I did have to adjust the breaks and gear shifters, but that's been my experience with every bike I've owned. There was one review in particular that made me nervous, saying it was not meant for someone 6'4", it was too short. Well I'm 6'5" (230lbs) with a 36" inseam, and can tell you this bike fits perfectly, granted the seat is in it's highest safe position. I've only had it for 3 days so far, and if things change I will update my review, but I put 26 miles on it so far, and it rides like a dream. Very comfortable seating position. The front suspension is good for the occasional rock or bump you hit on asphalt, but this bike is not made to be taken off road, and I'm OK with that. I was particularly happy to see the wheels were trued perfectly. I was expecting to have to take them in and have them trued at a local bike shop, as I've had to do with all my past bike purchases, but in this case they were already in great shape. For the money, this is an awesome bike.
Is it possible to replace the old BB with one of those sealed cartridge ones? Do they even make it with the same diameter and threading size?
Old Raleighs often have different threading. Threaded cartridges won't fit. They do make threadless cartridges that might work. Keep in mind, you will have to replace the crankset as well as they don't work with cottered cranks. If it's not a Raleigh, then a regular cartridge BB might work. czcams.com/video/1BrVjDFqotE/video.html
Raleigh often used 26 tpi the industry standard is 24 tpi. It's a pain. If you you have plastic cups you may be able to use them. I hate the old system shown on this video.
Excellent video, many thanks. The bottom bracket on my 1968 Hercules Balmoral (a type of budget cycle made by Raleigh) is very 'crunchy' so this job is on the agenda. Does it matter which way up the cotter pins are inserted - I notice you insert them facing down? Best regards and thanks again.
They need to be 180 degrees from each other.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank you very much.
So was the threading in this bottom bracket 26 TPI or 24?
Raleigh standard. www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html
how many bikes do you have?
Can anyone tell me which year was made my Raleigh bicycle frame serial number BR34401
I've just picked up a vintage road bike and I'm looking to replace the bottom bracket.
I'm trying to do my research on types/sizes of bottom brackets, mine has a square taper cartridge BB. Ive tried to look up the bike on google, i believe its a late 70's super cycle 18speed. Im mechanically incline but I do not know much about bicycles, any input would be awesome! Thanks
I've been watching your videos. so helpful! i just found one that answered my question
Was it black pepper seeds instead of ball bearings in old bottom bracket
No.
the original Raleigh kickstand shown in this goes for about 100.00 on e- bay!
Hey RJ. I'm now overhauling a Raleigh Super Grand Prix. I've removed the bottom bracket, and the bearings are loose, is this typical?
Jon Buckley On some bikes they are loose from the factory. I have a video where I replace caged bearings with loose bearings: czcams.com/video/BNfRD4ETDL0/video.html
RJ The Bike Guy Yeah, I saw that right after I posted, also thanks for that nut,washer, bolt removal tool idea. I haven't got an HCW 11, so it'll suffice nicely for removal of the fixed cup.
Can I convert to disc brakes from old rim brakes
czcams.com/video/y1vBvY5KmWY/video.html
If you don't have brake mounts, you might be able to, but I recommend against it.
czcams.com/video/emW7M-ZD0Pw/video.html
Can I install the shield cartridge bottom bracket instead of old one?
Maybe. It depends on the threading. Some of the old Raleigh 3 speeds used a Raleigh specific threading.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I have a Indian Hercules roadster bicycle
@@NATUREPRABA It depends on the bottom bracket shell size and threading. You will have to measure and gauge it.
so imma about to make refurb a raleigh record ace from 1977 and it has the same BB. I am wondering if you know of modern BB, preferably something sealed that could replace that?
I am guessing your Raleigh Record Ace does not have the same BB. Raleigh 3 speed cruisers like this had different threadings. I am guessing your has BSA threading and can use lots of different BBs. Including sealed cartridge BBs.
@@RJTheBikeGuy oh.im sure the threading and stuff are different. Yours looks like it's has cottered cranks and mine has square cranks for example. I've never done a rebuild like this but just trying to get an idea of those parts are available in a modern format.
@@acedotcom czcams.com/video/1BrVjDFqotE/video.html
czcams.com/video/TcyaSEAhI5k/video.html
czcams.com/video/lNoJJOvLqjw/video.html
7 balls in the cage, or 11 loose balls. With loose balls it will run a ball short. I always go for loose so down the road if I crack up to 2 balls the crank can still work.
On these roads you'll be glad for extra balls.