Man, I love the machine shop that I work at in BC, but I would give almost anything to finish my apprenticeship at your shop. Every video of yours I've seen has shown a smart, profitable, and effective approach to upgrading rotary engines. Seriously impressed with your content.
As a machinist and rotary enthusiast I appreciate your videos and content, and from the videos I've seen on CZcams your channel is one of the few people that I've truly come to respect. Your attention to detail, balancing and precision is one of the reasons when it comes time to rebuild and upgrade my engine I will be definitely be contacting you guys. Thanks for your videos.
thanks for the awesome videos keep it up, could watch this kind of tech video all day, also very helpful for people to know what to look out for if there building high power engines cheers
rotaries are by far my favourite engine, I have recently moved countries and busy planning my next project. Its between a 20B eunos cosmo or an R33 skyline and i have always wanted a rotary... sadly you and I are on different continents, I have not looked at the euro guys for their quality of work yet, but due to the videos you have posted showing how you work I would rather trust you guys. I will take a look at some of the Euro guys that work with rotaries then depending on what they say I will probably reach out to you guys. I have machining experience so I would say it is possible to do this on a normal mill and not CNC but it wont be easy...
Really awesome that you've developed the hardware kit so that people can have this installed. Can people just buy the kit for their engine and have their local machine shop/ Machinist do it? There's CNC machines everywhere. We all know how shipping engine components can be lost stolen damaged etc.
Excellent content as usual sir. Would you also recommend this for an N/A 3 rotor as well? Also, what if one we're to run this for a couple years and then want to jump to a quad rotor set-up how would the procedure change? Thank you in advance
I thought you guys offered the coolant jacket mod - have you ever or am I mis-remembering? I ask because I saw Chip's video regarding his (new) offering and thought I recalled you all offer(ed) it (at some point, lol) Cheers from the middle of the Atlantic
Is it worth the money to "Over Build" a motor? I.E. say I'm only looking for 400-500HP would it hurt to build the whole car (engine, trans, suspension, etc.) capable of handling considerably more power? Basically will over building make everything more reliable or put other parts of the vehicle at risk?
I ain't gonna lie. At 16:52, seeing how there is so little material left around the cast iron walls for the dowels on that 20b plate makes me not even want to consider dowling. The machining for the studs however, seems to make more since. 20b center irons are just too rare and expensive for me to even consider dowling. Seems with enough heat cycles, those thin walls may crack?
RotaryPerfection thin walls do crack and heat cycles between different alloys jeez pretty sure rx7specialties knows what they are doing if your a machinist and rotard lol been a rx7club member for years forums need I say more
@@REsuperGRX7 Well I've owned and worked on rotary since 1991 and have been a forum member over 15yrs and did my own 20b swap and full build. So yes I'm definitely a rotard. 😉 Like I said though, my thing is most aren't building their 20b engines with dowling to last thousands and thousands of miles. MY concern is how long will those thin walls hold up over time on a 20b? I'm not worried about the 13b plates. Its that expensive center plate i worry about. Mazda's casting of the irons is inconsistent. I should know because my D series 20b center plate has thin outer coolant seal side walls that have cracked. So yes, these irons are VERY brittle and that much machining does concern me.
RotaryPerfection oh didn't know that about 20b centers. Yea probably not worth cracking a hard to find piece like that. Does anybody make aftermarket options yet? Thought I remember seeing someone trying to do rotor housings
@@REsuperGRX7 www.billetinc.com.au/products/pro-r-20b/ Not cheap but I love the idea of a replacable wear surface. No more lapping needed just replace the inner plate.
Its the sum of the parts together as an assembly that locating dowels and studs reduces the possible movement which lessons or possibly eliminates the chance of cracking the irons. If any one of these parts in the sandwich clocks to a different position, it will increase the chance of a cracked iron. The studs and dowels work together to distribute the clocking/rotational load so that movement doesn't create a point source load at the dowel. So the dowels and studs share the work as a team.
Twist a piece of paper into tight pencil like dooby and stick it in the air intake before the filter. As you do not want it to get sucked in. Secure it in place and then start the engine. After A while of driving pull over and put your hand in the exhaust stream. It should be A lot more humid than it normally would be. It basically pulls small amounts of water/coolant into the combustion chamber where it can be turned into steam. Using this trick might ruin your engine or give it better MPG by steam cleaning the engine. Up to you if you try it. If you leave this mod on, you should change the coolant to the environmentally friendly kind. Also try fuel magnets at the same time as you are using this modification. Fuel magnets create more heat in the engine and in turn will create more steam. More steam equals more power and cleaner engine. Of course this is A gamble but I would not try it on A highly modified engine.
Man, I love the machine shop that I work at in BC, but I would give almost anything to finish my apprenticeship at your shop. Every video of yours I've seen has shown a smart, profitable, and effective approach to upgrading rotary engines. Seriously impressed with your content.
As a machinist and rotary enthusiast I appreciate your videos and content, and from the videos I've seen on CZcams your channel is one of the few people that I've truly come to respect. Your attention to detail, balancing and precision is one of the reasons when it comes time to rebuild and upgrade my engine I will be definitely be contacting you guys. Thanks for your videos.
Great feedback. Your also very welcome
Please keep your style. Love the detail and the pace
thanks for the awesome videos keep it up, could watch this kind of tech video all day, also very helpful for people to know what to look out for if there building high power engines cheers
Cheers back.....
Keep up the amazing videos, I appreciate the attention to the work, and all the details.
thank you
Great video very informative, I love your precision work.
thank you
Thanks for another great video adam!
no problem!
Another awesome vid guys
Love the improvement in quality
You could make longer videos that’s what I’m looking for
Pretty interesting stuff
rotaries are by far my favourite engine, I have recently moved countries and busy planning my next project. Its between a 20B eunos cosmo or an R33 skyline and i have always wanted a rotary... sadly you and I are on different continents, I have not looked at the euro guys for their quality of work yet, but due to the videos you have posted showing how you work I would rather trust you guys. I will take a look at some of the Euro guys that work with rotaries then depending on what they say I will probably reach out to you guys. I have machining experience so I would say it is possible to do this on a normal mill and not CNC but it wont be easy...
What I want to see is a Dynoed 13b MSP that has been fully ported by CNC!!!!
Really awesome that you've developed the hardware kit so that people can have this installed. Can people just buy the kit for their engine and have their local machine shop/ Machinist do it? There's CNC machines everywhere. We all know how shipping engine components can be lost stolen damaged etc.
We sell the hardware only yes. The machine work can be very tricky if you dont have jigs though..
Love the channel! Are there any videos of cars with your improved engines?
Matlov would love to see that as well. I need inspiration for my builds
Excellent content as usual sir. Would you also recommend this for an N/A 3 rotor as well? Also, what if one we're to run this for a couple years and then want to jump to a quad rotor set-up how would the procedure change? Thank you in advance
That’s as tight as a Swiss watch. Wow
missing a little bit of lubrication when drilling?
These modifications are also applied by Mazda. It is only for competition. Do they improve oil consumption? They affect the scraper seals
I thought you guys offered the coolant jacket mod - have you ever or am I mis-remembering? I ask because I saw Chip's video regarding his (new) offering and thought I recalled you all offer(ed) it (at some point, lol)
Cheers from the middle of the Atlantic
we do offer this as well
Is it worth the money to "Over Build" a motor? I.E. say I'm only looking for 400-500HP would it hurt to build the whole car (engine, trans, suspension, etc.) capable of handling considerably more power? Basically will over building make everything more reliable or put other parts of the vehicle at risk?
Yes overbuild and under drive is our number 1 rule of thumb
@@rx7specialties203 what exactly do you mean by that? Do you know any articles about this (with links)? (Trying to make your response easier on you)
It means building the engine to a higher level than you intend to use it
Do you stud a 13b msp?
yes we do
I ain't gonna lie. At 16:52, seeing how there is so little material left around the cast iron walls for the dowels on that 20b plate makes me not even want to consider dowling.
The machining for the studs however, seems to make more since. 20b center irons are just too rare and expensive for me to even consider dowling. Seems with enough heat cycles, those thin walls may crack?
RotaryPerfection thin walls do crack and heat cycles between different alloys jeez pretty sure rx7specialties knows what they are doing if your a machinist and rotard lol been a rx7club member for years forums need I say more
@@REsuperGRX7 Well I've owned and worked on rotary since 1991 and have been a forum member over 15yrs and did my own 20b swap and full build. So yes I'm definitely a rotard. 😉 Like I said though, my thing is most aren't building their 20b engines with dowling to last thousands and thousands of miles. MY concern is how long will those thin walls hold up over time on a 20b? I'm not worried about the 13b plates. Its that expensive center plate i worry about. Mazda's casting of the irons is inconsistent. I should know because my D series 20b center plate has thin outer coolant seal side walls that have cracked. So yes, these irons are VERY brittle and that much machining does concern me.
RotaryPerfection oh didn't know that about 20b centers. Yea probably not worth cracking a hard to find piece like that. Does anybody make aftermarket options yet? Thought I remember seeing someone trying to do rotor housings
@@REsuperGRX7 www.billetinc.com.au/products/pro-r-20b/
Not cheap but I love the idea of a replacable wear surface. No more lapping needed just replace the inner plate.
Its the sum of the parts together as an assembly that locating dowels and studs reduces the possible movement which lessons or possibly eliminates the chance of cracking the irons. If any one of these parts in the sandwich clocks to a different position, it will increase the chance of a cracked iron. The studs and dowels work together to distribute the clocking/rotational load so that movement doesn't create a point source load at the dowel. So the dowels and studs share the work as a team.
somebody can teach me this wankel engine (13 b 20 b 26b and another engines ) does it work with carburator or injection
Google it
Tight clearances and professional they say, but tightens plates to Cnc using spark plugs? Yeah, your machine needs tighter clearances.
Toe clamp on spark plug🤔🤔
Twist a piece of paper into tight pencil like dooby and stick it in the air intake before the filter. As you do not want it to get sucked in. Secure it in place and then start the engine. After A while of driving pull over and put your hand in the exhaust stream. It should be A lot more humid than it normally would be.
It basically pulls small amounts of water/coolant into the combustion chamber where it can be turned into steam. Using this trick might ruin your engine or give it better MPG by steam cleaning the engine. Up to you if you try it.
If you leave this mod on, you should change the coolant to the environmentally friendly kind.
Also try fuel magnets at the same time as you are using this modification. Fuel magnets create more heat in the engine and in turn will create more steam. More steam equals more power and cleaner engine.
Of course this is A gamble but I would not try it on A highly modified engine.
Do you have IG?