Installing an Exterior Door Perfectly - The Right Way
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- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- In this DIY home improvement video, we show you How To Install A Prehung Exterior Door FAST and easy the simple DIY way. We always recommend a pre-hung door because that puts you that much far ahead in the game with a door that is already attached with hinges to the frame with the textbook 1/8" reveal line all the way around the door.
Pre-hung doors typically will come with pre-drilled holes for the door lock and deadbolt. We will show you the four rules of installing a door in your house: which are level, plumb, square, and true. Once you can master these four criteria, your door installation will be perfect without any hitches at all.
Affiliate links to tools and parts in this video:
🛒 Dewalt Atomic DCF850 Compact Impact Driver
homedepot.sjv.io/rnboQd
🛒 DeckMate 3 in. Exterior Self-Starting Wood Deck Screws #9 (1 lb./73 pcs): homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnre
🛒 Tapcon 1/4 in. x 3-3/4 in. Star Flat-Head Concrete Anchors (25-Pack):
homedepot.sjv.io/VyjA0R
🛒 Loctite Tite Foam Pro Can Window and Door 19.6 oz. Spray Foam Sealant:
homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnqe
Note: Some links we provide for you are affiliate links which if you click on them and buy something, we may receive a small affiliate commission. We appreciate you supporting our efforts to continue to bring you world-class tool reviews, remodeling, and repair videos, tool giveaways, and shop with me videos looking for the best discount tool deals.
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⏱ Table of Contents Install A Prehung Exterior Door (Click on timestamps to jump to a chapter) ⏱
0:00 Intro to Install A Prehung Exterior Door
0:20 4 Requirements installing front doors: Level, Plumb, Square, True
1:30 Core strategy for installing an exterior door frame
2:15 Removing the old exterior door and frame
3:38 Searching for & removing hidden nails and screws
6:00 Installing New Pre-hung Door
6:43 Applying silicone to floor and door rough-in opening, fitting prehung door
7:23 Shim hinge side first level, plumb, square
8:50 Shim doorknob side
10:40 Check weather stripping for air gaps, light leaks, check shims
12:40 Removing shims from the pre-hung door frame
13:26 Apply expanding door gap foam - Jak na to + styl
Affiliate links to tools and parts in this video:
🛒 Dewalt Atomic DCF850 Compact Impact Driver homedepot.sjv.io/rnboQd
🛒 DeckMate 3 in. Exterior Self-Starting Wood Deck Screws #9 (1 lb./73 pcs): homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnre
🛒 Tapcon 1/4 in. x 3-3/4 in. Star Flat-Head Concrete Anchors (25-Pack): homedepot.sjv.io/VyjA0R
🛒 Loctite Tite Foam Pro Can Window and Door 19.6 oz. Spray Foam Sealant: homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnqe
Note: Some links we provide for you are affiliate links which if you click on them and buy something, we may receive a small affiliate commission. We appreciate you supporting our efforts to continue to bring you world-class tool reviews, remodeling, and repair videos, tool giveaways, and shop with me videos looking for the best discount tool deals.
Put your molding on then spray foam from the inside and pull the weather strip out to screw behind them so when you put the strip back they hide the screws.
About to replace and exterior back door on an older rental home I own. This video has been so helpful.
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain how its done in the real world!😉
Thumbs up for the accurate, rough framing diagram provided.
The most thorough door install video.
Thank you, Jeff, I really learned a lot in 15 minutes. You'll explained better than most of these sites. Keep up the great work.
Best illustration of leveling i've seen
I've been watching videos here on CZcams. Yours is the best by far. Your videos are for the common man. Thanks again
I appreciate that! Shawn!
Very helpful - best yet in doors - thank you
Great video Jeff! You do such a great job and put so much effort into explaining everything. Looking forward to more how-to and DIY videos like this :)
More to come!
Good video I do remodeling and have been restoring old homes since I was 10 yrs old .My father taught me most of what I know and I completely understand how the real world and video fantasy land are .I like to find good content just for review and it turns out I was taught the rite way when it comes to door installation. GOOD VIDEO BY REAL PRO !
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it Jeremy
I'm not planning on replacing a door yet but Jeff does a good job explaining it. I have a metal front door that can use fresh paint whenever I get spare time to try and do that
Don't forget the sill pan if your area requires it
Excellent video!! I've never done an exterior door, but in the last two years I did six interior doors in my house. On one of them, I walled off the wide pocket doors, (leaving them intact inside) and got to install the new door in my own wall! I went for level and plumb using the closed door to manipulate the gaps, and then did a light check. I didn't do as good a job on three of them as you did on this one, especially with their trim, so I guess I should ask them if those doors are still working fine...
This install is still doing great. You will get better with each install
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation!!! Greatly appreciated 👏🏻
I'm glad the explanation was helpful for you!
Thanks Jeff for your information and video, I appreciate you
My pleasure!
👍Great job Jeff.
Thanks!
Great video Jeff
Super video, thank you Sir!
"Fantasy land" lol! I gave you a thumbs up for the honesty. Great tutorial.
Thanks Willie
Well done! Thx.
Thank you you are a genius
You're welcome!
Thanks!
May I just say Thank you
Thanks Jeff
Glad to help
Exactly how I do my doors. Not as fast as TV shows you . 😂 Real world 🌎 install, Thank you !
Glad you liked it thnaks!
Great job 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm really enjoying your explanations through out the video!!
Glad you like them Patty!
Thank you I didn't think i'd ever find a video that showed real world situation. Extraction Good video
Glad you liked it!
Nice job well done
Thanks Ronnie
Great video . Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it Danny!
looks great
thanks Bob
I am 0/3 on prehung entry doors. I thought maybe I would watch someone that knows how to do it. Excellent video.
great info jeff
Thanks Iggy!
Great job guys ! 👍🏻👉🏻
Thank you! 👍
One of the best videos on hanging exterior door. Better than This Old House. THANKS
Good video. thanks! You may want to mention to use expanding foam for windows and doors. Regular expanding foam can warp the jamb.
Yes, good idea
this vid earns you a like and subscribe from me. thank you for sharing knowledge to the rest of us.
Awesome, thank you AL!
It's like an episode of this old house
This old horse
Sometimes (usually in an old house or house that has settled a lot) your jack studs will be twisted off plane with each other. In a perfect world, the door slab is flush with the drywall and there is a perfect 90 degrees in between the drywall/door slab and the jack studs (a horizontal plane 90 degrees). Then when you put your jamb and slab in, there should be a perfect 90 degree angle (horizontal plane 90 degrees) in between the door slab and the s-jamb and h-jamb. If the jack studs are twisted off plane and then you put your jamb in and shim, there's a high chance you're about to twist the jamb off plane as well. The str-jamb and hing-jamb may be perfectly plumb, but they can be twisted off plane which means your strike jamb and hinge jamb aren't perfectly parallel with each other. It may be a very mild twist and not enough to affect the door shutting but sometimes it does but that's usually a problem you'll run into in an old house. This is a rare problem but probably the most invisible problem to a lot of people hanging doors because you need a square to see it. You can get around this problem by using unbalanced shimming, meaning you might have to have an extra shim on one side than the other or you have equal # of shims on both sides but you had to drive one in farther in order to twist the jamb into proper alignment. But if you are hanging a door and you're showing plumb but the door is still scrubbing, then check your parallel of jamb legs (on both sides of the jamb legs, not just one side)
This is literally wonderful, what a great explanation
Glad you think so!
Great teching video - thank you.
Additional thanks for "my little friend" joke 😀
I see you have got a green tool in that video!!!!! Love Ryobi!!! Good job Jeff……
Yes my friend the homeowner owns that drill driver
Wow! A challenge for sure! And not for the faint of heart for anyone that has not done it before! It seems like it should be so easy, but au contraire! 🤔😳🙄🙄🙄😀👍✌🏻🔨
It really is easy, just make sure it is level plumb true
Hi! Thanks for the video ☺
I just have one question.
In many places, the wooden wedges are removed and any holes are filled.
You sawed it off. Is it okay if you stay inside?
Which is the better solution?
Perfection!! 👌🏽 thank you!
You're so welcome!
ROFL! I think Tim Burton made that door opening. Love the vid!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
What manufacture of outside door do you prefer? Perfect timing of the video, I need to replace a front door in Florida. Thanks
I have used Jeld-Wen a number of times, this was a metal insulated door from Lowes, we were happy with it
@@jeffostroff Thanks.
I loled when you showed the rough framed opening.
...but it's exactly what we find when we attempt these projects. Be prepared!
@@stevef.8041 Oh I know. I've been a carpenter for 25 years, i have remodeled countless houses and It absolutely feels like that's how the rough openings are sometimes.
Lol... if only it were this easy.
Sill plate was at an angle and the wall studs around the door were slanted due to some water damage to the joists at one point (but is now fixed!). The door itself was also nowhere near square when not installed. 4 packs of shims later and it mostly closes and seals well. Need another 2 packs to get it perfect.
Looks like south Florida somewhere 😊
You mentioned that the concrete was not level so you shimmed it. Did you do anything else? Wouldn't there be a gap under the door?
New subscriber. You kinda sound like Stanley tucci 🤗😳
Thanks for all the great information, now I'm going to hang my new door
Great video. Learned even more. Best so far. Would be helpful if you mention how much you save by doing it yourself or what new tools you might gain and what are the costs of some of these items. Might date the video some but we can see maybe if the entire project is worth doing it yourself. I am already looking at replacing the frame or parts of it because of water/insect damage. Need to know what to do to protect bottom wood frame or top because the builder didn't drop the outside of the door concrete pad so splash is happening. My outside garage door area really didn't last ten years. Coming on 18 years and I am just getting replacing it after a temporary fixes finally failed.
Great ideas thanks Bryan!
@@jeffostroff Doing mine now. Ran into some carpenter ants. Bottom damage to the frame and probaably took too long for a first timer. Now I have to go buy a door. Either ripping out the frame to cinder block or just reuse the top portion after cutting out the bottom. I had water damage on the bottom and the design has no step or gap to the front so water damage is going to keep happening unless I cover the whole outer concrete pad with the a/c unit. Have crowbar will travel.
So do you want normal expanding foam or low expanding ? Thinking the regular might force the door frame out of plum and square
You want low expanding foam according to instructions. But no it cannot force the door and screws out of plumb. What happens is the foam will expand out the front and back side and you cut the excess off.
6:08 my man just actually said "fasTeners"....
LoL! I pointed that out to my "Dearest". She said I was the only one that would notice that. Thanks, pal!
Good door brand. For an exterior door, I prefer they swing inside into the room and preferably open against a wall. This one was right on the front corner of the garage...a little odd location.
Good install BTW...I never agreed with snapping off the shims...they are best cut/trimmed flush and clean. This original build really screwed up where the lockset latches into the door frame. I have seen some of those studs just too far away and shimmed just enough that the door frame itself acts as the dead bolt latch...not secure at all. Would be best to have a 4x4 at all locks ! But I'm sure thats just asking too much. Good review Jeff
This room was formerly a carport, with a sloped driveway so this made an interesting installation
For buying a door in the future, I suggest looking at Dako doors. They have sturdy products.
Will look into them thanks
My sill plate is 1/8 inch wider than the head plate, so it is not true. Any suggestions?
How would you deal with an exterior door going into an uneven concrete slab subfloor?
What part of Florida are you in?
Keemazon gonna love them toes Jeff😎🤦🏻♂️😎🤦🏻♂️😎
LOL, yes that was my friend Grant
I literally busted out laughing when you showed that rough opening lol
You mean the parallelogram!
Great video! What would you say is an average cost someone can expect to pay for this type of job?
A contractor might charge you $100 or more per hour, and assume 3 or 4 hour job
My friend in CO just got a quote for this type of install... 30k
I swear this guy sounds exactly like Ray Liotta rip
Bro even got the DeWalt underwear 😂
Do you consider it a security issue to have your exterior door swing out? Having your hinges accessible from the outside seems risky.
I ask this because I have an exterior door that needs replacing and, because of how the interior walls are situated, it would be better to have it swing out rather than in but I'm worried about security.
They are security hinges that cannot be popped
@@jeffostroff Ah nice! Thanks!
And the door is not protected by the weatherstrip when it swings out.
12:29 Are there fasteners at each Shim? Do you Anchor each of them?
I prefer to run a fastener trough every shim
So the expanding foam doesn't mess with the plumb?
No it is already screwed into the rough in opening, you do apply the expanding foam last
@@jeffostroff Thank you, I needed to understand that.
They also have low expansion foam made for this purpose
Do i need to screw the top door jam as well? I have a steel lintel up there so what do i do in this situation?
Yes, drill pilot holes into the lintel and then drill bit sizes up until you can screw into the metal
So you guys didn't have to put the vapor barrier tape on?
Outswing exterior door very rare in my parts
They are common here in FL due to hurricane
Great job! Except you put it in backwards lmao
No it is not in backwards, this is a locked hinge, the pin cannot be removed.
What kind of sealant do you recommend?
I prefer silicone, unless you want it to be paintable, then Alex 230
@@jeffostroff thank you!
Hinges on the outside? That's a new one for an exterior door. What stops someone wanting to break in from just popping out the hinge pins and pulling the door out of the frame?
On doors that have hinges on the outside they are security hinges that can't be popped And door removed
Take a saws all and cut the old frame. It makes removal much easier.
It looks like a strong hurricane can just blown that door out.
And take the house with it
No when your a home owner the first thing you should do is make a list of required tools and either purchase them or see if you can borrow them so you get the job done right the first time.
both doors i have got so far weren't assembled correctly, putting them out of square by a solid 8th.
Yes, we see this all the time with prehung doors
why does your door swing out? That's normal in Japan but in the us doors open inward.
The door is backwards. Great video and tips but the door should swing inside. Or The hinge pins should be inside. A thief could easily tap them out and take the door off
😎
I am quite handy, grew up watching and helping my dad with all kinds of stuff (he was a pro). I'm trying to talk myself into tackling this job on my own house. It's a 66 year old house so I'm scared of what may be lurking behind the trim work....
We never know what is lurking there!
💯👍
Thanks for watching Brian!
👍
thanks for watching k24 ben
I use the saws all and cut the upright in half and then just pull the rest of the door frame out
Getting medieval on it!
level plumb square and true , too bad you did not show how any of these corrections are made , besides level , like what do if it was not square when you checked it
The shims take care of all that
This was just in time for an upcoming to-do item! Stupid termites eating my doorframe. 🤬
Big problem here in FL especially with driving rains and bottom wood soaking up water.
Take out the weatherstripping first to find hidden nails and screws.
Yes, but in his case, he knew where most of the screws already were.
Bit strange to see the rotten bottom and not do any sort of flashing ?
Good video, but I wish you had finished the door install with putting the trim back on. Also, you kind of skipped over a couple things like when you started to cut the nails with the saws all, you didn't say what you were doing until later in the video. Same with the removal of the old foam. I wasn't sure what was going on at that point. Also, this looks like it is definitely a 2 person job, which would be a good point to make when you make these videos. Otherwise this was very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
So are you saying wooden slabs instead of shims even if they're filed down to the exact with that you need is not a good idea for security purpose on an exterior door.
Shims will work they are not a security risk because the screw goes right through the Shim and into the door frame so I'm not sure why anybody thinks there would be a problem having a Shim here
I wish you didn’t skip over how you sealed the lower tight gap on the striker side. Seeing as the nozzle wouldn’t fit
Did not apply any where the straw won't go in
No short-cuts. He did every thing, and more, to get this new... into old, to be plumb Square and true.... click. That is the sound of all that working together on a Jeld Wend replacement door. I am facing a replacement, but My rough opening is all wood, with a brick exterior to clean up. The foam brick mold is a piece of cake to finish up with. I've done many doors but you can't beat instructions like this, when you've been out of the game awhile... He screwed it real good... LOL.
13:08 The sound of getting a tooth drilled.
yes it does sound like it
Star drive aka Torx - when you don't have Robertson (square for Americans)
I love the Torx
wait wait wait wait. you're telling me you put the hinges on the exterior?? is that so any random person can come by, remove the hinge pins or cut them and walk on in? how has no one noticed this? why not just flip the lock and have the keyed side of the dead bolt on the inside lol?
These are security hinges, no way to remove them
@@jeffostroff I gotcha, sorry I hadn't seen you responded to a similar reply already. Thanks for the video and reply, have a good day!
Very common in I’m guessing Florida
@@mikevernacchio5384 very lol
Good eye! I didn't notice that!
Hing goes inside on exterior door
No on an outward opening exterior door with security hinges. Here in FL, for Hurricane, you have to have doors opening outward
Can’t i just drill the jamb directly onto the brickwork? Why do I need shims, assuming the brick is perfectly plumb?
How are you going to insulate? Why re-invent the wheel
What about when one wall is 1.5 inches off at the sill from the other side ? You can't make it level plumb and square. You just can't. I've spent a 12 hr day fighting it. It takes installing many doors to realize you do the best you can to the eye , and make the door operable , where it will open up and close decently easy, and modify the lock catches to latch decent. I've installed hundreds and 1 out of 3 are like this especially in older homes. If the walls are mostly true, then yes you can go level
Have you thought about pouring down some self leveling compound to level the bottom of the floor first? I think that would be something I would look into I do this all the time in bathrooms before I tile I have to always get them level first
@@jeffostroff No, I don't mean the floor.... Of course, if it was out of level that's exactly what I would do. I mean if you were looking from the top of the wall down one wall is an inch and a half to 2 in away from the other wall if you were to chalk a line straight from wall to wall. So it ends up that your hinge side Is one or 2 in one way and the latch side is the opposite way cocking the door all crooked. I've done a lot of doors and it takes a true master to get a door like that to work. You will literally fight it for hours. I found the only way to make it work is do your best to line it up with the walls and the drywall etc. And then you just have to reroute and chisel hinges and catches