How To Install Cylinder Heads on a Small Block Ford 302 | GT40 GT40P Heads ARP Bolts
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- čas přidán 29. 09. 2013
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How To Install Cylinder Heads on a Small Block Ford 302 | GT40 GT40P Heads ARP Bolts
See all the build pictures and part numbers here:
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This is one of the biggest steps in your 302 budget build. The cylinder head installation is a thorough process and there are steps you must take to ensure proper cylinder head alignment and torque specifications. Begin with a clean work space. Make sure all parts are clean and you remain organized. Make sure you have a good set of cylinder head alignment dowels prior to installation. Install all four dowels and be certain that they are straight and properly seated into the engine block.
Get a good quality set of Felpro head gaskets and make sure they are free from defects and are straight. Lay the cylinder head gaskets onto the head dowels and apply a small amount of engine assembly lube to the dowels. Next, set the cylinder head carefully onto the dowels and provide even pressure on the heads to seat them onto the dowels.
Get your new head bolts and install the washers on the bolts so that the chamfered side is facing the bolt head. Apply the torque sealer onto the threads and hand tighten them into the heads. Next, set your torque wrench to 70 ft. lbs. and follow my torque sequence specification below. - Jak na to + styl
I always use thread sealant on the lower bolts because they go into the water jackets. I also use a 3 step process for torque
Dont you have to go from like 35 then 50 then at last 70 and work your way up to it instead of tightening one whole bolt all at once??? Ive always heard/done it that way.
Good video.
Good idea to scrape the paint off the lower row of head bolt shoulders on the block.
After a few warmups, the paint will soften up & you will lose some of your bolt torque, speaking from experience.
Should have made the comment of ensuring the cooling holes are towards the rear of the block. If you install the gasket with majority of coolant holes to the front of the block will cause overheating.
Hey. Thanks Neo for the feedback. Glad I can help. I have a ton of videos coming up! Thanks for watching.
Not sure if you did it or not, but the lower head bolts on SBF engines go into the water jackets, therefore you should use thread sealer on the lower head bolts to prevent any water leaks. I personally like the Permatex brand.
You should torque all the Head bolts, or any bolt sequences in their correct sequence in two to three sets. One round up to either 1/2 the torque or 1/3. Final or third torque can then be performed. If you torque one bolt all the way to 70 ft. lbs., when you torque down the rest in the same manner, I can guarantee when you are done with the sequence, #1 will be loose. Tighten them all equally, you get an equal and more exact reading, and you done run the risk of stripping the threads in your block or worse, breaking a bolt off in the block.
i was thinking the exact same thing David,,,ive always step torqued the engineers at Ford are misinforming him,,,,sorry, this is a negative comment which you didnt want but i felt it was essential to avoid future major problems
Not for nothing but he shows the instructions for the bolts where it states that the bolts should be torqued to 70 in 3 steps.
I agree with all but one other thing he should have done is put lube on both sides of the washer
You do not have to replace the head bolts on these engines, I've used them over and over and never had any problems , You only need to replace head bolts on newer engines with the turn torque method , I bet you don't replace you don't replace the rod bolts , which are far more important
I had a 302 in my 67 jeep. Loved it to the point that I got early this year one from a junk yard and now rebuilding.
Thanks for the good video and information. I am about to do a rebuild on my 1969 Ford Falcon with a 302. With the high quality on the market and manufacturers you can trust with quality and performance parts my job now will be a good deal easier than it would have been in times past. Us old timers from the 60's appreciate you and our old ways. Thanks and Keep the Faith.
Really appreciate the time you put into these videos. You're slow, clear, and precise. It makes it very easy to follow what you're doing. Even for a novice like me. thanks again
It helps to put the dowels in the freezer for about 15 minutes or so. It’ll shrink them make it easier to install.
Hello, I´m from Brazil and I have a Ford Landau 1981 with a small block 302 this car is a galaxie´s brother, your vídeos are so nice , I´m telling my friends about your channel, thank you for your time.
Thanks a bunch. Always appreciate your feedback. Ill keep the build vids coming!
Good job! I was stuck on to where to put the head dowels and this helped me. Thanks for taking time to show these items.
Man, your videos are great! Keep up the good work!!
Thank you for all the great information
Thank you for the great information. I really appreciate it.
Not a single dislike on this video. Very informative and excellent audio!
Great job on video and the step by step instructions.
Something that might help make your life easier, when screwing in those 10 head bolts before torquing them down would be to use a Dewalt cordless drill with the torque release (or a regular cordless drill) would work to. But instead of the time consuming wracheted of each bolt by hand. Just quickly spin them down with the drill, then use the torque wrench to finish.
Interesting video, you might want to stand on the engine stand while torqueing the bolts, keeps it from moving on, you better control! Some of the others noted the use of thread sealer on lower bolts, and going in increments to the final torque value. Learn as you go!
Looks great. Brought back some memories when I rebuilt my Chevy 396 for my '69 Chevelle.
I miss those days and at 65 they ain't coming back. Time for the new bucks lik eyou to take over.
picked up my 351w [398] stroker today from machine shop and I will install in my 70 mustang and I'm 75 yo. pulled the engine myself and will install myself. installed 4 wheel disk brakes, AOD 4 speed tranny and a posi rear end. go do it. have fun. 500 hp. was a nice day here today 12/7/18. 17 degrees when I loaded it. high was 25 here today. warm fire in the stove tonight.
Very informative!
My ‘83 Bronco is missing. When going up a hill, one intake valve seems to get stuck open because the intake vacuum drops hard. If the motor doesn’t stall, the vacuum goes back to normal. Thankfully there is no backfire, but it is still a problem.
I think I’m looking at pulling the head to service the valve on my 302.
gracias por él vídeo bellezas de motores saludos desde Venezuela..! bendiciones.
Great info!
I just happen to view your video since I'm considering upgrading my 302 heads and I remember reading stuff in your vid saying to torque to 70 ft/lbs in 3 steps. I hope you did the 2 steps prior to the 70, hehehe
Awesome man
Thank you this saved me from a high garage bill
Good tip with dowls
awesome video
Thanks. I thank you for your viewership.
Back in the mid70s we were successfully able to install 351 Windsor heads with the little machine work would make this small block /breather a whole lot nicerexclamation point
love the video man! very helpful. you may have mentioned it, but what heads are you running and what was the push rod length? im doing one similar to that.
@ David Gavin.
Well pointed out, If you stop the video at 5:21 you will see exactly that. The "Preload (Torque) Recommendations". That is why it is very important to get a Repair Manual like Chilton for your vehicle to ensure you are doing it correctly. Videos are great but at times leave out small but very important information as mentioned in this video with the head dowels. Those repair manuals are not expensive and every professional mechanic has them. It is impossible to remember all the things that comes with a motor not matter if you worked on just that type of motor you entire life. You will not remember all the torque sequences, or the foot pounds of torque for each bolt, etc. it is just to much. So all good mechanics have those repair manuals to make sure they are getting it right. Especially when it comes to the internals of a motor. I buy one for every car I own because the information in them is complete for ANY THING you need to do to your car. It even teaches you how to Bondo, Primer and Paint the car if you wanted to. Over all I think the video was Great and very informative, well done.
VERY VERY .... Thanks.
Gracias por el vídeo muy bien explicado no sabia lo de el sellador
Excellent video but the shorter bolts need thread sealer as Keasy84 commented,
@ Archifllx Thanks for the great videos man.. I have a question for you about the 9333 pt1s head gaskets! They both say front on them so I know the driver side goes on perfect but the passenger side the front sign faces towards the rear of the engine. Should I just flip it over?
did you have any problems with coolant leaks when not using thread sealant on the lower bolts?
Thank you. I have not rebuilt an engine in 30 years. I am thinking of doing one with my son. We are leaning toward a 351W for a bronco.
good choice. picked up my 398 stroker today from machine shop. 500 hp
Go 351w, they are like a 302 on steroids, meaning the entire bottom end is beefed up. I rev my 351w to 7500rpm regularly with no issues. Stock bottom end and the motor is going on 24 years old. For reliability, the 351w is a beast! Great choice.
Are you supposed to use any kind of high temp sealant on the bolts that go in the water jackets, and how do you know which holes are the water jacket holes
Is it the same torque sequence and pound feet for a 351 Windsor with aluminum heads?
You failed to point out that you need thread sealer on the bottom row of bolts as they go through into the water jacket on the late model SBF found that out today when cleaning the headbolt threads on my 5.0....
hobbeekid I was wondering about that. Thanks for pointing it out.
ARP hotline says to only use the ARP assembly lube.
i think you should of used lubricant on both sides of the washer
I was wondering about sealant on the lower. Bolts
My new head bolts came with the sealer conveniently on the the short bolts. Nice of them.
You should torque with as short of an extension as possible
Do you have a video on how to install rocker arm on a 1995 ford f150 5.0. My friend had someone take apart his motor because of a blown head gasket
That two foot extension will through off the torque
Yes. I know. I’ll get an amendment on the description so it helps folks. Thanks for watching.
Beautiful . What red engine can paint is it?
I would use a shorter extension. The long extension has more flex and is not as accurate. I would also torque to 35# first and then go to 70#. I would also not paint the oil filter receiver area.
Those four dowels are easy to forget -- their absence is probably responsible for a rebuild failure or two.
I use permatex on the water jacket bolts
Hello Friend. You can tell me which headers you take for this kind of head and also your key, please.
not only do I learn from the maker of tne video but also comments now I was old that usung extensions does effect torque because of torsion and theres a formulary equation to getting proper torque if extensions are used any one else know about this
You are right on the money! I NEVER use a 3/8 drive socket/extension for ANY bolt size 7/16-14 and larger. Shorter 1/2" drive extension/6 pt socket/ current calibration tag on torque wrench, and 3 equal steps up to final torque. I always chase the threads in the block just before head installation, then use compressed air to blow it out. I also mist on a layer of Permatex copper coat on both sides of the gasket too. And yes, thread sealant where water jackets exist. I worked Aerospace and Gov't jobs my whole life. There is a data sheet with a Mil-Spec for just about everything. And guess what, I probably missed something. Would you get onto an airplane or a rocket where half-ass workmanship was used? I don't want to be right, I just hate doing things twice.
Precisely. If it weren’t for the community I wouldn’t have learned either. That’s the beauty of CZcams. We are all helping each other!!!! 👍👍👍
good morning i have a question if i buy a gt40p for a 302 rollers which camshaft i would use which push rods i have a question whether to use the f303
Block the wheels on the stand. Going straight to 70 # ?
nice video, when ive done head gaskets , ive always done it in increments. it just seems wrong to tighten them to full torgue all at once. am i doing it wrong?
no doing it in steps is better usually something like 20, 45, 70
Just curious did you use any gasket maker or anything
do you know the push rod size
i have assembly lube but can i use motor oil. and do i need sealant?
nice oil pan you got what brand is it? thanks for all the videos.
my milodan pan got a spider crack in the bottom of the pan. bad metal. stress crack, lost all oil, rebuild engine. moroso is a better pan . I've found.
Why didn't you spray Copper Coat on the head gaskets (both sides) before installation?
A dumb question, should you use a lot shorter extensions for torquing your head bolts down, doesn't the longer extension twist under load?
Yes they do
I hope you flipped them headhaskets around! The open water jacket ports go to the back.bus?
EDIT: I thought you had the headgasket backwards...oops!
How much do you think with everything done, cost to do this job?
What will happen IF you don't put thread sealant on the lower head bolts?
So no gasket sealant is necessary?
i picked up a 302 out of a 93 bronco going to convert it to carb and run a Holley fuel pump i wanna put these heads on that you have the gt40 would it be worth it or should i keep the stock heads on ? also what manifold/carb setup do recommend its going in my Toyota truck its my camping/mud bog/rock crawler/grocery gettter haha also thanks for the awesome videos!
Always torque half of what is called for first and then re-torque to specs.. More accurate reading.. FYI
do you still use the stock intake for the gt40 heads
You need a manifold like an Edelbrock 2121 as the ports are larger.
this and the camshaft can be done with the engine in the car already? or was it just easier to show us with it removed?
Easier to assemble it on a stand or hoist
just got me sum gt 40 head can i removed and install them without taking them out the block
Yeremy Navarrete what!
With these engines, you can use the old head bolts. No need to buy new ones. With some modern engines, yes, but with these old V 8:s the bolts can be reused over and over.
Wow head gaskets for cheap i think ill order mine from america.
What happened with the ford blue 302 you were using before?????
He painted it red
Different engine.
Do you have to use gasket sealer on the head gaskets?
my block got bored to .030 over.can i still use these head gaskets fel-pro 9333pt1?also i will be intalling the GT40 heads.thanks
no. you need a 30 over bore gasket or the piston will hit the gasket.
Ok! Thanks for reply
Negative, you can still use the 9333 gaskets as they have a 4.100 bore,
Hmm idk about buying new head bolts ive built lots of high powered engines never had any problems reusing head bolts i thought only gm used tty bolts
I know those dowels are needed but do they need to be new? I'm just swapping the gasket.
no can re-use them several times
It's just a preference in case they have been overtightened!! That's all extra precaution and extra money spent!! If need be you could Mic you are old dowl pins!! But yes you can use your old ones if it matters to an expense!! He was just giving a suggestion of replacing them which either way he was looking at the perspective of not having to change head gaskets again or warping a head!! That's all he was referring to taking precautions that's all!! It's up to you if you want to use your old dowl pins!! But good question ⁉️☺️
A reply after 8 years 🤣 kept the same dowels and it still runs just fine.
I've been trying to find an answer for this and figured someone would get back to me here. On my 88 5.0 I purchased some felpros 9333. It's a supercharged 5.0 and when swapping heads I noticed that the oil drain back holes have two holes covered by the head gasket and two open. Placed it exactly like he did. And on the front of the block I am getting the hole for the pil to drain back goes straight through and towards the rear of the motor the hole is covered by the head gasket. Now on the other side of the motor passenger side head.. I have the front hole covered and the rear hole is open. Is this normal or do I want all four holes opened?
Eli Guerra hope you figured out
Would there be an issue with gt40 heads on a 302 with flat top pistons? If so what can I do to accommodate thanks
Did you find an answer? I have a set of GT40P's and an 86 302 and I need to know if I need new pistons.
+2011FordMustangGTCk (
If I buy heads will I have to buy a cam too? What's the reasoning for people using 305 sbc heads on 350sbc?
you can increase the cylinder compression by using the smaller heads which theoretically increases power but that's debatable.
+Chuck Swingle would I have to replace the cam as well if I put 305 heads on?
Not necessarily, it depends on what you want out of the engine. You can leave the stock one in no problem but if you want to get more horses out of it there are plenty of 3rd party manufacturers willing to cater to what you want. If you aren't going to race it, leave the stock one.
Itll save you the headache later 😂
Would gt40 heads fit on a 1997 f-250 351w fuel injected?
mongomay1 you’d have to have the head bolt holes milled out to 1/2”
Yes it will fit with a 351 Windsor you just have to have the head bolt holes drilled out that's the only difference the holes where they bolt up are smaller!! I believe it can be done just use the dowel pins to line the holes up before drilling!! Gt40p heads are steelcast heads but it might not be worth it to do for you if that's something you prefer not to!! 351 small block Windsor heads will fit the 302!! But the 351 Windsor heads are not as good as the gt40p heads!! Just because of the exhaust and intake porting that's the big difference!! And the boat holes is where the difference really is!! That's what I heard!?... 👍🤔💡🙄🤯👌🇺🇸💪🙌
How can I tell which head goes on what side
Anthony De La Rosa really
Don't you loose some "Torque" with an extension?
Myth. Or it doesn’t matter either way. Almost 80k on the engine with zero issues.
Last I checked for most if not all 302's as long as they were in good shape you could reuse the bolts with no real issues, not saying its not a bad idea but for a cheap ass like me if they can be reused and are in good shape why bother getting new ones unless your gonna be running some serious boost or a very high rpm engine.
The hash slinging slasher. I've had good luck reusing the head bolts
I thought you did the 70 ft lbs in three passes.
Nice but why did you paint it red?
It was gonna go in an old red truck.
do u have to buy new bolts?
Yes. Most head bolts are torque-to-yield, so one use then throw away.
Older SBF 302's and 351w did not use torque-to-yield head bolts, only the newer motors started using them, so check the year of the motor to be sure. If before 1978 you are good to re use the head bolts.
you can reuse head bolts just not the newer 5.0 with the torque to xxx and 1/4 to 3/4 turn more. torque to yield I think there caled. And why not buy studs from ARP better then standard and they help line up heads. and the intake side of head long bolts torque at a higher ft lbs and that long ass extention is losing some of your torque
KcuFeM2 plus thats A 5.0 roller . 5.0 was first used on the 78 King Cobra and from then on 302 are called 5.0 even if there same ci or cc. In 80 or 81 they started changing the balance some had 28 oz still and some 50 oz trucks stayed longer at 28 and 351w are all 28 oz just say'n
+KcuFeM2 had a 76 cobra with factory 302
Just wondering, I was told to never use an extension on a torque wrench. Anyone ever have problems with this or is it an old wives tale?
I thought that too. But if you torque it with or without the extension, the results are the same. 1st torque it with the extension then double check without it on and it's clicks everytime.
It is, indeed a wife's tale. Would be much better if it were a wife's tail, but it is what it is. Torque applied to one end of a shaft (extension) is the same at the other end, unless there is something along the shaft (like a vise-grip pliers) disrupting the reading or the application of the torque. (Remember, torque is a twisting FORCE, and when applied, sends an equal and opposite REACTION back along the extension. Now, here's something to ponder: If you have thus applied the torque to the extension, you now have potential energy built up in the extension. If you lock the torque wrench in position so that it can't back off, and apply, say, sulfuric acid to the extension, what happens to the stored (potential) energy as the acid eats the extension away? Hmmmmm.
I did. No problem! I also reused my head bolts! No problem there either!👍
What about the water jackets
bro did no one notice you put the head gasket on backwards !?
HG is fine. Truck has almost 80k miles on the build
I sure hope for your sake your lower head bolts do not leak coolant
31,000 miles on it. No leaks or issues
You haven't taken in the extension your using. You should always have it as short as possible or dot use one at all if you want the most accurate torque rating on your wrench
Man no good you got to use thread sealant on all the bolts then use your lube stuff up towards the flange above the threads those top bolts go directly into the water jackets
sorry about this negative comment ,, but ALWAYS STEP TORQUE,,you go out of your way to be very articulate in your rebuild , but yet avoid this very essential step ok thats it setting yourself up for major engine problem the engineers at Ford are telling you wrong or something else
?
Really? These bolts are not torque to yield so there is no reason to replace head bolts unless you break one or you want to.
I have reused head bolts on every engine Ive built with no problems. Only head bolts that have been replaced are torque to yield bolts. Those bolts are one time use. You torque the bolt down then you go so many degrees, this kind of bolt actually stretches and when you torque it down and go the number of degrees you are supposed to they are not tight enough now cause they have already stretched once. On bolts like this engine, you torque them to 60 to 75 ft lbs or what ever the spec is and you are done.
You missed some steps, good luck.
Probably almost 96k miles on this engine since built. Luck was there. Nice comment btw. Some insight as to what you think was missed might be helpful
THOSE DOWELS LOOK TOO LONG