Comparing strength of SLA Resin objects with FDM printed objects
Vložit
- čas přidán 18. 03. 2019
- I wanted to compare the strength of SLA printed resin objects with the strength of FDM printed objects. I used the test methods of Stefan Hermann (CNC Kitchen / @cnckitchen ) for testing the samples. I compared Hatchbox PLA, Atomic PETG, Polymaker PC MAX Polycarbonate, ANYCUBIC Clear resin, Sparkmaker LCD-T resin and Siraya BLU resin.
I was surprised by the strength of the resin prints.
Phil,
Love the video. It is very thorough. We like to reply to some of the points you mentioned:
1. You can increase the strength of Blu further by printing at 100um layer height and you will save print time too.
2. While Blu prints best with starting temperature of about 30C, you don't really need a heater or enclosure to get it working. As long as the environment temperature is not under 15C, you can increase initial layer exposure time such that it will heat up the resin enough to finish the print. check out the user guide in the support section on siraya.tech
3. Post curing condition can affect material properties as well
4. Blu is made to have good resolutions which means it cannot be too flexible. We just launched Tenacious resin that is much more impact resistant that Blu and can be bent 180 degree without shattering.
Thanks for the information. I hope to go back and retest with more testing of the print parameters such as post curing times.
@@PhilGandFriends what were your curing processes? please.
@@Zepeda3D I have a separate video about that. I use heat when curing. It adds about 40% to the strength.
@@PhilGandFriends thank you I will check the videos out
I tried out the siraya blu after watching this and I got some of the best prints I've had sol far on my Saturn. Thanks for the info.
Nice work. Results at 13:00 for anyone in a hurry.
Nice work. Thank you for your efforts!
Thank you for translating into Imperial. I am impressed with the resin and it gives me good confidence in printing something i would want to last for a while.
That ziptie after the 1st snap was awesome. I love seeing an immediate change to something you realize is annoying. Very simple fix to keep the hooks in place after pull
Just a thought that might help - I heat my Photon to use Siraya BLU by simply pointing a heatlamp at the outside of the unit and partially blocking the fan at the rear of the resin chamber. It's a little simpler and quieter than an enclosure and a hair dryer. Many people disable that little fan, as it seems to function mostly as a source of extra resin smell in the workshop.
Thanks for the great tests!
Thanks you show resin info.
I wonder if doing a partially hollow version in resin would improve it's tensile strength as well?
Great video!
what do you think the strength will be of 100% infill petg and pc hooks?
What about taking account of layer lines? Wouldn't force applied to the test material in parallel or perpendicular to the layer line would affect the test result?
Great video 😀
Which low odor uv resin would you recommend? I live in an apartment and want to try 3d printing.
I think I will start with a resin printer. Which printer would you recommend $ 500- $ 800?
How much noise do your resin printers make compared to the fdm printer?
I have a look at the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X with it is first to get after November 5th. Then there is time for me to learn software 😁
I have mostly standardized on Siraya resins. They have a number of choices. I have been mixing Blu with Tenacious frequently. (The Blu is strong, the Tenacious adds a bit more flex and sticks to the bed well). As far as odor, I am not a good person to ask. I don't really smell any of them. Also you need to make sure the Siraya resin is printed above 25 degrees. You probably can reach that temp by just putting a box over the printer).
Did you test if impact strength also change if infill is changed to 100%?
Will results for all those parts be different if they lay in sunlight and hotter than normal room temperature for let's say one day?
Could also be interested to see how parts that lay in a freezer for one day will perform.
(I try to find out what is best for my build ideas as they will need to be used outdoors in sun, rain and +35 down to -10 degree Celsius.).
I did not test that, (I was trying to match the testing setup of Stefan). Good question, however.
Maybe later.
Great video. It really helped me, thanks. You should work on audio editing - music should not be louder than your speech. The volume should also stay consistent between the shots. I found myself constantly adjusting the volume which was annoying.
Great work!!! It would be interesting to retest the sla prints using 30%infill and a thick outside wall to approximate the FDM parts, and why not also test ASA and nylon or NylonX using FDM while you're at it?
I was wondering about the same thing.
Thank you! Great video. Have you done heat/ weather durability tests?
I did not. In a different video (the one about the resin based FDM printhead) I did a basic temperature test of resin vs FDM material.
This is a great video. Phil, when you're FDM printing PETG or PC, do you have to use a heated enclosure?
I only use heat with Polycarbonate.
Thank you for this test, and Stefan, too. The resin manufacturers need to do a much better job of publishing standard test results, but It's usually difficult to compare mechanical properties between different resins from the same manufacturer because they use different specs.
The manufacturers also need to publish the printer settings for each resin, for all popular MSLA printers.
I don't make miniature figurines. I want to use 3D printing for short run manufacturing. The loose mish mash of mechanical specs aren't very useful. The subjective impressions of Amazon reviewers is actually more useful. As an engineer, I'm forced to design the parts with the general MSLA printed properties in mind, test different resins at different printer settings and different post cures, and iteratively modify the part to optimize it for the desired use. Still, 3D printing is a wonderfully enabling technology. With MSLA, I can produce parts that are more complex than injection molded parts, with a surface finish that's nearly as nice. The material cost is much higher, but there is no expensive mold cost or 10,000 part minimum molding run.
it would be interesting to know, how those results change after some time, e.g. after 1-2 months. (since resin parts continue curing in the sunlight and PLA also does not like sunlight).
I agree. There are many issues around post curing that I don't understand now. (How long to cure, does heat help, what is long term uv impact, high heat?)
Yes. I’d like to learn more about the stability of resin parts over time. If I print a set of connectors for kite structures, will they decompose in months? years? days in the sun??
I don't know if you can measure tensile strength like that. Muscles do not work continuous enough to not measure fatigue strength effects once you are in the range of plastic deformation.
Excellent video. I would like to see how the "professional" dentist resins perform. To make teeth they must be really above all the "amateur" resins, and they should, as they cost twice or more.
I would love to print replacement MK3 parts with my photon but I don’t know how well resin would stand up to the heat. Have you tested heat at all?
Great question. I intend to do that in the near future..
Resin can stand up to heat easily. It is not a thermoplastic. I could not melt it with a 320C soldering iron. It does break down at some point, but printer temps are not hard for resin.
I just did it. czcams.com/video/evaB9w6GNLE/video.html
Could you do 30% fill with honeycomb pattern for the resins? they might come out stronger because of the structural geometry
Unfortunately, there are not any easy ways with today's software to make complex fill structures in resin prints. (unlike FDM prints). That is because resin prints need a way to "drain" the uncured resin out of the interior. I hope the people creating the resin slicers think about that.
@@PhilGandFriends ty phil for the reply!
Fred Willard's brother did a great job here!
You are not the first to note the similarity!
Interesting. Did you get a change to test the "Blu" after post-curing at 60 degrees C?
That was the rising I used for the tests!
Thanks for the content. I wish you balanced audio levels between speaking, music and machines. Had to constantly volume up for voice and volume down for music or machines.
Yeah, that was my first video. I got better as I went along..
How is the dimensional accuracy and tolerances? Noone has given me a clear answer :(
I don't think that is really a resin issue as much as it is a printer issue. Having said that, clear resins do spread light somewhat at the edge. You can control for that a little or go with a opaque resin.
@@PhilGandFriends but how much can I expect? everyone on the internet says different things.
the common answer seems to be that it's a random value between 3-15% and i have to print the file, and measure and re-adjust and re-print it... which is a paint considering the curing process and how some holes can't be accessed
Please do a hydrostatic test.
Hi Esun Tough resin looks stronger than the blue resin from what I've seen
3:31 I would find it to be a huge waste of resin to print solid. Plus the resin inside would not be able to cure properly anyway. I always hollow out my prints and leave a couple of escape holes to pour the excess resin out.
My parts are usually printed with clear resin, they they cure OK throughout. But you are right about the resin cost. Unfortunately, the slicers don't do a great job of automatically hollowing out at this time, (but I am sure it will get better).
Now do it with 95Ashore hardness TPU Pull would be way above 400kg and Impact would be indistructable. (might have to make the bottom loop closed)
only thing missing here is multiple tests per material, at least 10 samples would be the best
I did not explain that in the video, but I did at least three tests per sample. The values shown are averages.
would be great to collect this data or link to a sheet with this data in resin-reviews.org project, find me in photon owners group and pm me your github name so I can add you to the team
a 100% polycarbonate will perform a lot better if anneal process after print. my 100% polycarbonate print already perform much better than PLA before anneal in pull test. After anneal, it is almost impossible to break polycarbonate. I am not exactly sure about the PC Max since it is not 100% Polycarbonate.
I have not tried annealing polycarbonate. I will have to try that. Thanks.
FDM: Layer orientation...?
These were all printed with the layers 'longways" (so that the breaks did not occur along the layer lines)
Hey, my name's Phil too!
I find resin is too brittle. Which is exactly what Phil is showing. I imagine that as the SLA market continues there will be more (better?) options out there.
Tenacious resin is not at all brittle and can be mixed with other resins at whatever ratio you need to make them less brittle as well. FDM filaments have improved greatly over the years, and now that MSLA printers are becoming more widely used, the resins are greatly improving. I wasn't interested when resins were only useful for fragile miniature figurines, but now that I can make structural parts at much higher resolution than FDM parts for maybe twice the material cost (and falling), I just bought my first MSLA printer.
The usually say SLA Resin is brittle; how abut ductility and elasticity
That is the impact resistance test I did. It is roughly the same (for Siraya Blu) as PLA. You can mix in some Tenacious to make it more flexible.
@@PhilGandFriends Thanks you show resin info.
@@PhilGandFriends Thank You 200% for this info:
czcams.com/video/bbAyaaRQe_I/video.html
czcams.com/video/Kho0_K61FIk/video.html
I have a tiny complain on the sound volume through the video: your voice is much quiter than the music or other noises. So I have to tune the volume from time to time.
I think the best solution would be to wear a cheap mic on the collar and plug it to the camera or a phone, recording the video.
If your looking for the best impact strength your best be might be to mix Siraya tech Tenacious with Siraya tech Sculpt . There is a review of it on the amazon page by Paul T. you should check it out! Thanks for the awesome video Phil!
www.amazon.com/review/R3174GLG8RFRS6/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07PLJ9XW9
check photonsters.org under community mods for a cheap open source DIY heater unit that you can print yourself
I had a heated chamber already, so it was easy for me to use. Long term I may do something different.
Anyone else wondering whos children these are?