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Phil G and Friends
Registrace 2. 10. 2012
Build the ultimate dry box! Use a mini-fridge for dehumidifying air.
You can build the ultimate dry box for storage of 3D printer filament or cameras using a mini-refrigerator to create ultra-dry air that you blow into your storage box..
You can download the fittings design here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3928329
You can download the fittings design here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3928329
zhlédnutí: 10 032
Video
Prusa 3D Printer Extruder in Resin!
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 5 lety
I made an extruder for a Prusa printer using SLA resin. (Siraya Blu). I tested the temperature tolerance of resin material to make sure it would work.
Effect of Post Cure Temperature on Resin Prints
zhlédnutí 4,4KPřed 5 lety
We test the importance of temperature on post cure of 3D SLA Resin prints.
Comparing strength of SLA Resin objects with FDM printed objects
zhlédnutí 12KPřed 5 lety
I wanted to compare the strength of SLA printed resin objects with the strength of FDM printed objects. I used the test methods of Stefan Hermann (CNC Kitchen czcams.com/channels/iczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg.htmlfeatured) for testing the samples. I compared Hatchbox PLA, Atomic PETG, Polymaker PC MAX Polycarbonate, ANYCUBIC Clear resin, Sparkmaker LCD-T resin and Siraya BLU resin. I was surprised by ...
This is amazing! I was about to embark on a similar journey, and you and your friends have saved me so much work and time! 🔥😄
Ingenious solution and brovo, keep up the good work.
I'm curious about 2-3 week of room cure effect. Some of resins i've tried became so crunch with uv post cure for small parts. But when i left some parts 2-3 weeks and didn't post cure with uv they were more bendable and reliable.
If you don't cure with UV, it will definitely be bendable, but will have almost no strength. (tensile or compressive).
I drilled the top hole with no issues, but punctured a compressor tube when drilling the right side hole. 😢 got to get another fridge 🤦🏼♂️
So sorry!
@@PhilGandFriends , it was a free refrigerator, Lol. Got me a new one and it’s all hooked up, already down to 35% from 60 in just a few hours.
If you place the desiccant in a bag rather than bucket the humidity level can go as low as 10% @32C. My outside RH is at 70% @32C. A bit of isolation around the door helps a lot. Also, people please do not us blue desiccant it contains cobalt, that is NOT good for you. Use orange desiccant.
Excellent presentation, exemplary results! I'm thinking of using a countertop ice maker for my icebox. It will likely require a mod to the water filling function since that won't be needed. I like the compact size but also I haven't seen any mini-friges at the low price point of yours. Any thoughts?
As long as you can get air below freezing temp, it should work. Good Luck!
I see you stopped uploading but perhaps you still get notifications for comments. I'm wondering how well an old mini fridge would work for dehumidifying a large room from 70-80% RH down to let's say 50-60% or lower. I'm thinking simply leaving the door slightly open, blowing in some air, timer turning it off sometime during the day when electricity costs more and collection the condensed water when the ice melts.
Tell folks to be careful when boring holes in the side, on some units there are HP refrigerant lines running down the sides .Found out the hard way,.
Good thing to know! Thanks for sharing
Is there any in the top to be worried about?
If I will cure uv light and heat not the same time, but first uv light then heat will we have same effect? Some papers says that curing with uv light long period of time makes details more fragile, like you dropped it unintentionally and it will shattered in pieces, is it true?
I think it must be heated at the same time as the UV cure. The heat is vibrating the molecules which allow uncured molecules to find each other. . I have not seen any brittleness from curing. (impact strength)
How did this hold up? You think Abs like resin will work?
At what temperature does the fridge stays at all time ? Do you put filament in the fridge too or you put beer ? :) thanks
The fridge main compartment stays around normal refrigerator temps (35-40 F). However, the freezer section at the top is around 25 F. I have not thought of putting beer in there!
The filament section in my case stays at 19celcius and humidity at 18percent.. the freezer is bigger then yours and fans too . What am I doing wrong ? Thanks alot
@@kennybeaudoin The question is: Are you making frost in the freezer? You have to see frost buildup to be getting the humidity down low. Most people have the fan running too fast, which keeps the freezer too warm and frost is not building up.
This is an interesting find, it isthe first time I heard about it. I think heating the resin whilst printing might also improve its performance. Say 35°C compared to 15°C while printing. And it might be great to combine "post curing in water" and "heat" to "post cure in hot water", it would be great if you could test that.
Nice work. Thank you for your efforts!
Brilliant sir hope to see some new content soon
Are the STL files for the fittings available?
Yes, Here they are.. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3928329
Need to do this myself ... thanks for the video... How long did the parts hold up over time?
They held up reasonably well. I let my grandson use the printer and he had a problem which caused a big ball of melted filament to build up all over the printhead. Some parts got broken when we removed it. But we were able to remake those parts and it was fine.
Aren't you (by cooling the spool), turning it into a moisture magnet? Sure the air is now dry.
Understanding the dew point is important. Water condenses out of air when it is at or below the dew point. When we run the air through the freezer, we remove enough moisture, so that the dew point is lowered to below freezing. When the air returns to the dry box, it warms up (and the relative humidity drops to 5%) In order to condense out any more moisture (such as on a cold surface), you would need to cool it lower than it is in the freezer. So, cool filament will not condense any moisture out of the air.
Absolutely fantastic Phil!! I've been following the exact same path, got a peltier to get down around 17-18% RH, by letting its exhaust heat also warm up the chamber, but I'm still not satisfied. I'm looking at a compressor based ice maker to modify in much the same way! Love your simple and clean solution, and I'm wildly excited to see something similar working so well!
In an enclosed space the whole peltier system will heat up the air (the system cannot be 100% efficient) so in long term the air will heat up to a point where the cold side of the peltier won't cool down as much. If we keep the hot side outside of the chamber, the chamber may drop temperature too much - lowering the dew point and making the condensation ineffective. I reckon there is a "sweet point" where the peltier works the best and the dew point is at maximum. It may require some sort of automatism which re-cycles the heat from the peltier to warm up the chamber but not all the time. How did you get 17%? It may be enough for me. Thank you!
How is the dimensional accuracy and tolerances? Noone has given me a clear answer :(
I don't think that is really a resin issue as much as it is a printer issue. Having said that, clear resins do spread light somewhat at the edge. You can control for that a little or go with a opaque resin.
@@PhilGandFriends but how much can I expect? everyone on the internet says different things. the common answer seems to be that it's a random value between 3-15% and i have to print the file, and measure and re-adjust and re-print it... which is a paint considering the curing process and how some holes can't be accessed
I cannot for the life of me get the square nuts to fit.
Sorry to hear. In the version I did on the video I had to use a small knife to clean them out. In a later version, (Not on video) I used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean out the holes. That worked very well.
@@PhilGandFriends Did you mix your blu resin with anything? I mixed mine with tenacious but I think I used too much. The parts are very flexible hah
@@audiorazor The first time is was pure Blu. I have done it since with some Tenacious mixed in,
ever wonder why they don't use Peltier chips in food dehydrators ? you're jumping through hoops trying to solve a simple problem, seriously no need to reinvent the wheel Just put a 60watt light bulb in the cabinet, drill some small holes in the top and bottom to exhaust the humid air while providing fresh air, there you go problem solved. what you have basically done is built a dehydrator I mean seriously haven't any of you seen an easy bake oven LOL
I have a dehydrator. But: 1: The humidity will not get as low. 2: It will use a lot more energy. But I do use the dehydrator to dry out wet filament at a higher temperature. (If you want to dry out filament that is already wet you have to heat it up to slightly below the glass transition temp. A food dehydrator is good for that.). But it is not good for keeping filament dry. And it is not good for a large storage box with many rolls of filament in it.
Dehydrators remove moisture from materials. This shouldn't be confused with dehumidifying air. Heat is used for dehydration because the material molecules require agitation to free the trapped H2O. Then the air is simply vented out - taking the moisture with it. Air has different properties, thus different method is required. Enter, dew point and refrigeration. Yay for physics.
DUDE THANKS
Excellent video. I would like to see how the "professional" dentist resins perform. To make teeth they must be really above all the "amateur" resins, and they should, as they cost twice or more.
I cant quite work this one out. as far as I can tell you are just blowing the "fridge air" into your dry cabinet. Fridge usually operate at around 45-65 RH and somehow you are drying air to <5%RH. what am I missing?
(As explained in the video), in order to get the humidity less than 25%, it needs to be cooled lower than freezing. So the air is blown through the freezer where the water in the air precipitates out as frost on the cooling coils. That is how the humidity gets to 6%. (As I say in other comments, if you are not making frost in your fridge you will not get the humidity below 25%)
Hi Phil, I love this setup and I think I may build one of my own. I see that the filament storage stays at 69 degrees. Do you have another heater for that area? I would think that the constant cold air flow from the freezer would bring that down into the 50's at least. Thanks, keep up the good work.
It is just in my lab where the air is around 69. The total cooling capacity of the mini-fridge is fairly. low, the air gets reheated as it flows into the cabinet.
@@PhilGandFriends Thanks for the reply, I would not have guessed that it stays that warm. I have not had great results with just using desiccant so I think I'm going to try to make this, I love a good project!
I was indeed wondering the same, I suspected the non-insulated hoses were enough to dissipate the cold. Thanks!
I have a tiny complain on the sound volume through the video: your voice is much quiter than the music or other noises. So I have to tune the volume from time to time. I think the best solution would be to wear a cheap mic on the collar and plug it to the camera or a phone, recording the video.
This is exactly (EXACTLY) what I was looking for. I would like to make a question: would it be possible to use such system without opening the storage case? I want to make a similar low humidity cold environment to store a high end PC. Processors and GPU's tend to become very hot after usage at 100%. Inside such environment, especially a dry one, I believe my hardware will last longer. Regards from hot rainy Brazil.
Sure. There is no need to open the case except when you need to get something in or out.
Anyone else wondering whos children these are?
Thank you Phil and Friends, I hope you don't mind I modified your adapter to avoid using silly putty: www.thingiverse.com/make:948159 Check out my pics on thingiverse I got my humidity under 1%
I don't know if you can measure tensile strength like that. Muscles do not work continuous enough to not measure fatigue strength effects once you are in the range of plastic deformation.
Would keeping the resin print in water at 60c work just as well?
Yes, as long as you can get enough UV light into the water.
Cool tut... thanks. Regarding cameras... below 35% humidity is not wise for lenses and cameras because the seals and lubricants fail... I hope that's is useful as a tip.
Hey Phil, thanks for the vid. Thinking about printing parts for my prusa too. Would you mind telling us which resin you have been using? Cheers, Christian
Siraya Blu for most things...
Thank you
Do you have stl for the thermal electric box you made before the fridge. Thanks 😊
would u say that can work as sort of an actual dehumidifier for bigger rooms? u know with fans pulling air from the fridge etc great idea btw
I don't think it would be practical. You would need a higher capacity cooling unit for a whole room.
Can you make another video showing which hose connects to the freezer and which goes on the refrigerator side and which is on top of the cabinet and which is on the side and why?
It is really pretty simple. I would direct the air FROM the drybox into the center of the freezer part of the refrigerator (in the one I made that is right in the top). (The maximizes the chance that it will flow past the cold metal part of the freezer and release the water as frost on the metal). The return back to the drybox is not critical. As far as the dry box goes, I don't think it is critical, but I think it is slightly better to have the cold air from the frig be introduced near the bottom of the box and suck the air out of the drybox near the top. (reason is: Hot air rises, so the rising air will pick up humidity as it rises). Most of all, remember that if ice-frost is not building up in the freezer, you will not be dehumidifying. The air flow should be slow enough to make sure that frost builds up.
This was brilliant, on multiple levels. Thanks Phil!
@Phil G are you still making videos? You've done some great stuff, thanks.
I have been super busy, I moved my shop to a new location and have been setting a bunch of things up. But I have some ideas for some new things to test.
Hello how much is the best air flow in m3/h ? If i have freezing fridge hehe and big fan for in and out like 400m3/h flow.? Maybe you now if how much degrees celsius - need for best results? And how many liters of water can absorb in one day? Maybe its there some calculation ? Thanks for answer and good video 😀
Good questions. I don't think there is a general answer that works for all configurations. A higher capacity refrigerator/freezer can handle large airflow and still achieve freezing temperatures in the freezer. But to reiterate, the most important thing for this design to work is to have ice build up on the freezer compartment. If no ice builds up, you will not get the humidity below 20%. It does not take much air flow to keep a reasonably small box dry.
Just found you and SUBBED! WOW are you going to give more data on other supposed engineering type resins? Love your down real world approach!!! Thanks
That ziptie after the 1st snap was awesome. I love seeing an immediate change to something you realize is annoying. Very simple fix to keep the hooks in place after pull
Great video. It really helped me, thanks. You should work on audio editing - music should not be louder than your speech. The volume should also stay consistent between the shots. I found myself constantly adjusting the volume which was annoying.
Excellent video Phil, hope to see more videos from you.
hey, has this been reliable? Would it work even better with a Freezer instead of a refrigerator?
It has been more than a year and it is still running great. Regarding using a freezer, I would say: First, a mini frig is very cheap and small. Secondly, it works fine. It does not take muck freezing capacity to dehumidify a relatively small box.
and then, u get the auto defrost/non frost cycle, that can get the ice out of the fridge. so u dont have to do that work.
Thank you so much! I do product design and engineering, and I am about to purchase an mSLA/LCD resin printer. I've been looking for videos that demo mSLA resin printers to produce functional machine-type parts, and there aren't many. What you shared is very helpful. Take care!
Thats exactly what I was searching for. How did the extruder made out of resin last in the long run? Did it got brittle or does it still work properly? I've heard from others to mix 70% Siraya Blu with 30% Siraya Tenacious (flexible) to get outstanding parts. But nobody said if the extruder is still working after 1 year of use.
It worked great for year until one of my grandkids printed a big blob on the printhead. Getting that off broke the PINDA probe arm. So we reprinted it.
Thanks for the content. I wish you balanced audio levels between speaking, music and machines. Had to constantly volume up for voice and volume down for music or machines.
Yeah, that was my first video. I got better as I went along..
Great video 😀 Which low odor uv resin would you recommend? I live in an apartment and want to try 3d printing. I think I will start with a resin printer. Which printer would you recommend $ 500- $ 800? How much noise do your resin printers make compared to the fdm printer? I have a look at the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X with it is first to get after November 5th. Then there is time for me to learn software 😁
I have mostly standardized on Siraya resins. They have a number of choices. I have been mixing Blu with Tenacious frequently. (The Blu is strong, the Tenacious adds a bit more flex and sticks to the bed well). As far as odor, I am not a good person to ask. I don't really smell any of them. Also you need to make sure the Siraya resin is printed above 25 degrees. You probably can reach that temp by just putting a box over the printer).
Fred Willard's brother did a great job here!
You are not the first to note the similarity!