STRONG parts from a Resin 3D Printer? Testing TOUGH Engineering Resin!
VloĆŸit
- Äas pĆidĂĄn 18. 04. 2019
- Thank you Skillshare for sponsoring this video. The first 500 who sign up with this link will will get 2 FREE months of Skillshare Premium: skl.sh/cnckitchen2
Resin 3D prints are usually known for being very brittle and weak. In this video we'll test the strength of "tough resins" and compare them with conventional FDM 3D prints with very interesting results!
Test samples and methods: / filament-test-16238656
Siraya Tech BLU resin AMAZON (aff): geni.us/dDP4oo
Siraya Tech BLU resin Peopoly.com (aff):bit.ly/2GxfWqb
Peopoly Heater (aff): bit.ly/2IMz4lA
Peopoly UV Curing Light (aff): bit.ly/2Gwj712
Magnetic Stirrer (aff): geni.us/yhqqG
Washing containers (aff): geni.us/wJC8F
Foldable Tray: www.myminifactory.com/de/obje...
DAZZ3D L120: www.dazz-3d.com/site/printers?...
đ Support me đ
Patreon: / cnckitchen
Join as a CZcams member!
Original CNC Kitchen Threaded Inserts: geni.us/CNCKInsertsChoice
Merch: teespring.com/stores/cnckitchen
Buy an Original Prusa i3 printer: geni.us/CNCKPrusa
PayPal: www.paypal.me/CNCKitchen
Shop at Matterhackers(US): www.matterhackers.com/?aff=7479
Shop at 3DJake(EU): geni.us/zHvnB
đCheck out my PODCAST with Tom Sanladerer
/ @themeltzone
â My gear (Affiliate Links):
đ„ CAMERAS & LENSES
Panasonic GH5 - Professional 4k60 camera: geni.us/LMN0CmS
Panasonic GX80/GX85 - Great value system camera: geni.us/M2Sm
10-25mm f1.4 - Awesome Lense: geni.us/ZTBH
30mm f2.8 macro - Great Macro Lense: geni.us/vEwqD
12-35mm f2.6 - Great allround lense: geni.us/S9GOsr
14-140mm f3.5-5.6 - My go-to travel lense: geni.us/fSAyKo
25mm f1.4 - Nice prime for photoraphy: geni.us/mqWM
đAUDIO
Rode Video Mic Pro - Shotgun mic: geni.us/6JFRdJ
Rode Film Maker Kit - Wireless mic: geni.us/XMD2N
Rode NT-USB - Studio Mic: geni.us/YVONvy
đŽ LIVE STREAMING
Elgatoo Stream Deck: geni.us/ppIiAL
Elgatoo HDMI USB Capture Card: geni.us/imhD
Logitech C920 - Overhead camera: geni.us/ViVgB
đ Do you want to help me cover my running costs? Send me a dollar or two over PayPal, it helps me a lot!
www.paypal.me/CNCKitchen
đŒ Even watching the ads before my videos helps me a lot!
Follow me on Twitter: / cnc_kitchen
DISCLAIMER 1: This video was sponsored by Skillshare.
DISCLAIMER 2: NONE of these tests were performed with any officially calibrated test equipment. The values presented in this video are for information/entertainment only and will not be comparable to any official tests! - VÄda a technologie
Feel free to share and discuss the video on you Social Media Plattform of choice!
Could you please make a video about the "Alternate Extra Wall" Setting in Cura (in the Shell section) and compare if it's useful or not (how does it affect the strength of the part or is it only useful with a high or low infill setting)?
The smell you got I would think it's cyanide which is the fumes given off from permanent markers
Any chance that you can do this test with Prusa's new Tough resin? I'd love to see how it compares, since it comes in a wide range of colors, unlike Siraya Blu.
Great research! Thanks for sharing the data. I hadn't realized how strong this stuff is.
Hey Stefan thats awesome stuff you are doing there... I am having a little problem.
I was trying to print nylon parts on a FDM machine cuz the parts need to be hitresistant and a little flexi.
I finaly reached a point where I wanted to end the damn Printer.
So I just came back to my MSLA Printer thinking about flexible resins since you can mix em with "standard" resin
to adjust the flexibility.
Thats worth another video maybe? I mean I hope I figure it out before you upload that clip but it would be awesome to see the numbers.
GrĂŒĂe aus Rotenburg
Stefan, bringing science and engineering to the youtube 3d printing scene. The world wouldn't be the same without you, thanks so much for your videos.
including pay walling the write up
ââ@@pacman10182He needs to make his money somewhere. He builds jigs, buys the materials being tested and so on, so it's not like these videos are free to make, not to mention the time it takes to test, re-test, make the jigs, record the videos/b-roll and so on, so it's entirely reasonable to pay wall the write ups, after all, the information that average consumers need is included in the video, so I don't get what you're complaining about đ
@@marci1380 that was more pointed at scientific papers being paywalled even though they're already paid for, mostly from grants
@@pacman10182 Alright sorry, but your comment didn't make the distinction, it just sounded like it was pointed at Stefan, rather than others who get their money for their research from grants.
@@marci1380 I hope that's what I was talking about, I don't remember
7:00 the behavior you noticed there is called viscoelasticity. Most polymers show this behavior to a certain extent and so unlike with the pure elastic behavior of metals the loaded material deforms (creeps) over time like a viscous damper.
Manuel Buchberger I was going to say, itâs due to the polymer chain bonds allowing for stretching, and itâs likely due to a higher amount of single bonds, which is used to make it less brittle.
Interesting, I'm sure he would have also seen this behavior in the D638 testing if he used the same method to apply a force.
Plastic deformation
Thought viscoelasticity was a temperature driven property and not driven by strain rate
It drove me nuts back in the day... piad all kinds of money for sla prints, to watch them sag into unusable items over time. grrrr
I'm actually impressed with resin properties. Good resin and great testing!
Thanks for testing this, Stefan! I have resisted resin printers based on my previous experience with the brittleness of the prints. Like you, I mainly print functional parts, but I very recently bought a Photon and have been printing a lot with Siraya Blu lately. What I have been experimenting with lately is a blend of 70% Blu and 30% Siraya Tenacious resin. The Tenacious is their flexible resin, which is extremely tough, but has no rigidity. But the blended parts feel fully rigid, just like 100% Blu, yet are very very tough. I would love to hear your results testing a blend. Since youâve already made this wonderful video, you could report your findings in your podcast, which by the way is fantastic. I listen as soon as it is released each week - thanks for taking the time to make the show!
One more thing to share - I am still new to resin printing, but several experienced users have told me that soaking the parts in IPA is actually not ideal because it strips too much resin from the surface and results in slightly weaker cures. I donât know if this is true, but again, it would be wonderful to test.
Ok, well, one more thing after all - Iâve also been told that it is better to cure underwater. Something about oxygen embrittlement - again, I have not yet tested this :)
Could you please upload that video of your Blu/Tenacious combination (for your lightsaber project) on CZcams? It would show people on here how mixing in resins like Tenacious can really change the properties of other resins, and how much harder it is to break what you printed vs how easy it was for him to break the sword off of the type of resin Stefan was using near the start of this video.
This would be very helpful ! following
Ocie Ward have you made a temp test already?
Excelent tip, Ocie. Many thanks. The best resin I've tried so far is eSun's Hard and Tough, but it's so scarce that I was able to only find a couple of bottles for an important project that I've been working on. This project requires printed parts to be as sturdy as possible. That is, strong and rigid, and yet not brittle. So I followed your advice and acquired two pairs of bottles of Blu and Tenacious and mixed them (by weight) in a 70-30 ratio, per your suggestion.
The results have been so encouraging that at this point I'm seriously thinking about giving up on eSun's resin and start using this mix exclusively. This has the advantage that I can later tweak the proportions to make its resulting properties fit a particular application.
@@technomech303 DON'T YOU F'KING LOVE THE INTERNET!!!!
great job you guys.... thanks for reporting back...
I do so much FDM I get so jealous looking at the resolution and transparency of the parts at 9:40
@@tutelarsword6 FYI when post-cured (as all UV resin parts should be) the parts lose a lot of their clarity
Jonesy it depends from the resin, some are engeneered to remain crystal clear even after curing
@@tutelarsword6 have you considered printing those crystals you mentioned, making a mold of them and casting them in a transparent material to get the effect you've been looking for? Might be a bit more convenient than the resin printer considering your current living situation.
@@javannapoli2018 well if the whole figure was transparent and you paint over the part that you don't want light to shine through... the EYE"S + SWORD and other cool SCIFI armor parts would light up... without have it incorporate multiple SMD-leds... can't wait to get my RESIN printer!
@@tutelarsword6 Check Out alcohol colours with SLA printed Minis. There are great Videos on youtube and the minis look spectacular!
Some people don't realize you can mix resins to get qualities of each used. There are some interesting forum posts on this topic.
Logan Vinson - Please post links or info on forums. I would like to educate myself prior to getting into this type of printing. Thx
Could you post a link?
a link to this pro gamer move?
Will you try some wear durability test if possible? I wonder how a fdm printed gear vs a sla/msla printed gear would perform.
Not just wear issues to look into - many of the UV cure resins degrade/deform badly over time for a variety reasons. So far I've not seen a single UV cure resin I'd call good for anything but decoration, rapid short life expectancy prototypes or mold making. I'm not going to claim they are all like that though, just yet to see a stable strong good quality resin that can be used for an enduring part. Hopefully this resin might just do that job!
Gears also have some un-intuitive wear mechanisms. Properly designed gears don't have much sliding contact if any, for instance. Also, It is my understanding that plastic gears are mostly limited by strength and dimensional tolerances. 3D printing will also throw in some surface finish problems as well.
I think durability will be determined mostly by tooth geometry and surface finish. Material choice matters, but I think it will be obvious, or at least the problems will not be unique to gears.
@@foldionepapyrus3441 , you have not seen, because hobbyists do not use them. This is not the same as that all the products are the same. Of course, they are more expensive, but that should be expected.
@@michaels3003 Do you have any you know of? With the datasheet to go with them? As I've looked around alot, and never seen any that makes this type of printer appealing to me (and I'd like it to be, as the detail level is great, and its a much cheaper simpler setup than the laser based powder melting ones that have similarly good resolution).
The nature of the UV cure resins seems to make any part they make flawed if you need anything other than a delicate sculpture, or very short lived prototype. Preferably one that's never going to be handled/exposed to oils/water or more UV... There are some mechanically quite impressive resins, but they all seem to fail rapidly if exposed to the real world, which vastly limits the usefulness, and means you are better off printing the part, taking the silcon mold and then casting in a suitable 2-part epoxy (something you can easily find one that suits whatever your needs are) - and that is too much hassle to bother with, adds quite a bit to the cost of a single part, unless its really the only affordable/sane way to do a project - like perhaps you need thousand odd of them - too small a run to make injection molding viable, and too much to do machining...
@@foldionepapyrus3441 , I am interested in this subject myself, but unfortunately I've just started the learning process. YT may not be the best place to look for such information. You may have to do your own work by getting different polymers and testing them. Or you could order prints from some companies that print professionally but use polymers that are also available to ordinary consumers. I think, there are a growing number of manufacturers of polymers and data sheets should be available. Keep in mind that the specialty polymers will print at slower rates and may be expensive. Companies should be able to answer a simple question whether the printed objects can be used in specific real-world scenarios. Post processing may be required for real world usage even with the "tough" type products (like from eSun or Siraya Tech). Btw., mixing some of the polymers offers interesting possibilities.
You testing methods are great Stefan! I am really impressed by your findings on this resin and the detailed, unquestionable presentation! Love it man!!!
Great job as always! The isotropic qualities and detail available to resin printing have me very interested. I welcome any future resin printing topics from you.
Brilliant and your testing is thorough. Thank you for investing so much time to make great videos!
Your videos are so ridiculously helpful. You are saving so many people an insane amount of testing with your in depth videos. Much appreciated!
When looking at the spec sheet for this resin (provided by the manufacturer) it says not to soak the print in IPA for more than 30 seconds, and to try and only use a pain brush and IPA to remove the extra resin. Can you run the tests again to see how using the correct post processing effects your test results?
I have literally been waiting for someone to do this forever. Thank you for this video. Resin printing is so underrepresented.
Underrepresented due to higher safety procedures for UV-sensitive liquid resin.
This was super interesting. Thanks for taking the time to document and share your results. I was always curious how strong a resin print was compared to FDM and now I have an answer. I just wish the process was not so smelly and messy. I'm sure like anything else it will get better over time.
Dude! Your way of testing the parts leaves absolutely no wishes! One gets that you wholeheartedly are an engineer!
Cheers mate!
Best content on 3d printing. So much quality information! I love it. Thank you.
Another great video. I really appreciate the scientific method that you use to do the test. Keep up the good work.
3d print lenses with clear resin and a bit of polisher!
You mean like an eyeglass lens? Although resin printers have very fine layer lines, I don't know if it's enough for something like that. If you mean something like a magnifying glass then maybe.
I'm not sure if the resolution is high enough for optical lenses (though with polishing... maybe), but it should be enough for making *Fresnel* lenses, I think.
Marco Reps has done it, look it up. You can't cure the lenses though.
Wow, you're both thorough and well-equipped for this question.
Great investigation into material properties. Most similar videos don't go into this much detail. Very well done!!!!
That was pretty interesting, especially as I'm thinking about buying a photon at the moment. It would be awesome to see normal resins compared to this.
This is the only patreon account that makes sense. You actually supply real world data unlike all the other youtubers who just ask for money. Good work
Thanks so much for this! Posted this to our 3d printing group. I keep seeing reports of shattering in resin prints. This will help. I wondered about mounting the part under tension and failure happens as it ages. Nothing else seems to fit my observations. You rock!
I have worked with the chemistry of film photography for years, and find the resin process no more difficult or tedious than that. I much prefer the detail of resin prints to FDM, but have been searching for a stronger resin for practical parts. Thank you for your efforts in this review. Very helpful.
While in polymers creep indicates the material being loaded at a temperature above the Tg (glass transition temperature), in monomers (like the UV resins used in resin printers) this is an indication that the monomer matrix hasn't fully formed yet. In other words, your resin isn't fully cured yet and thus it still behaves like a semi-liquid material. This is actually super common when manufacturing products out of resin and it can often take months if not years for the monomer matrix to fully form and the resin becomes fully cured and solidified. In most cases having a fully cured resin isn't a desirable goal as it results in a more brittle material than the not fully cured semi-liquid material, so in order to make a resin tough and less brittle they add plasticizers which interfere with the curing process and can sometimes also act as a lubricant between the monomer molecules to promote more viscous rather than solid behavior. In other words the creep is what makes this resin 'tough'.
Here are some comparisons I did to other resins:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JlqLSi4sxZLdA-hHCp6Ow4isoGMNI7nlE9Nmbj1ajWk/edit#gid=0
You are like the Nile Red of engineering!
Thank you for your content!
Nice to know a strong resin exists.
Very cool! I'm glad we start to see things like this. I'm currently doing an experiment on my own channel where I print PETG with very thin walls, then back fill it with foam to provide the structure.
If everything goes well, I will have a 5 foot sword that is very durable and very light!
Very impressive study Stefan! I would be interested to see your previous study on smart infill applied to resins.
awesome video like always, thank you for this info!
Phil G had some interesting findings curing his Siraya Blu at 60C which he said gave quite the bump in strength. Perhaps worth a test someday - Resin parts post-cured at different temps.
Your knowledge is very important.
Thanks
Very well done, scientific and thoroug test. Thanks for doing it for us!
I use a Peopoly Moai and absolutely love it! I really donât find the smell bad at all! Nothing like I expected from comments but Iâm certain it varies based upon the manufacturer. Excellent video! Please do more on resins!
Yeah, it can vary a lot from brand to brand (3d-okay resin has a smell like polyester/fiberglass resin for example, while some other brands donât smell any worse than most epoxy resins), and also by how tightly sealed your printer is. Even the temperature in the room can change how much resin smells.
Cool, it was interesting to see how this resin behaves.
stop making me want a Resin printer Stefan. But i'd love to see you test high temp resins, as people have been using them for printing parts on Prusa's etc.
I like that (if I'm not mistaken) this resin is below 60$ for a liter.
Seems that resins are getting more affordable and with better properties as time goes.
I can buy resing for 30âŹ/kg from AzureFilm. Not sure about the strenght though.
@@zanpekosak2383 I went and looked at their site, and I saw 500ml for 30⏠under resin, but not 1L. Do they have half off sales a lot (like Makergeeks used to do) or is there some item I'm missing on their site?
Fuck. Sorry man I missed it! The bottle looked very 1liter-ish to my SLA inexperienced eyes. No they dont offer 1l. Damn.
It is on sale today at Amazon for $45 per liter.
Really interesting and surprising results. Thumb up for you đđ
Love your videos and already sharing it with our users.
You're welcome. Your resin is a good example to show what this technology can really do besides figurines.
Feel free to btw answer the questions of the viewers.
The strength of resin changes a lot with exposure intensity, time, layer height, and temperature. Just got my Blu this morning canât wait to try it out.
You are correct, if you could 100um would yield even better results. make sure checking on the user guide on our website and join the facebook Siraya Tech user group to meet fellow users. There are also recipe of mixing different resins in the group
Very interesting and more tests surely welcome!
Thank you for the comparisons! It is super helpful for my group project :-)
what greatabout this video is. this guy knows engineering unlike other 3d printer videos
Great video as usual. Keep it going!
Great and very detailed videos. Always like to watch.
What you observed in the bending test is probably the viscolastic behaviour of the resin. Generally, most polymers show this kind of behaviour, some more pronounced then other. This depends on the degree of polymerization (= average length of the polymer chains) and the "connection" between the polymerchains.
Basically, this behaviour is entropy driven, meaning that the polymer chains will untangle under load but will return into their original position after the stress is taken away. Of course, this only works within a certain degree of deformation. Usually, the degree of viscoelasticity also correlates with the ductility of the polymer.
The first printer I had hands on experience with was the form 2. My favorite material was the abs like blue. The biggest problems I had was warping and other dimensional issues. While the strength of the part isn't dependent on orientation, the warping behavior is. Process also requires orienting the part at an angle to it's axis to limit it's adhesion, so the warp becomes a curl that is really difficult to design around. I found it very difficult to make straight fixture frames, precise slides, etc.
My underwater robotics team used this resin for a water-tight pneumatics manifold/solenoid enclosure. Itâs a good material. We were even able to use press-fit pneumatics fittings.
This is a excelent set of tests you have come up with, i'd really like to see the results from a wide range of resins including the cheapest ones.
BTW a little trick to removing prints from the bed on SLA/DLP.. use a flush cutter at the corners of your print and just snip once to get under it the print and the prints will pop right off vs. fighting them with a spatula :)
Excellent. I'd love to see any comparisons/recommendations for flexible resins too if possible :)
Love your channel keep up the good work.
Hey Stefan, I came across your channel about a month ago and since then have been binge watching all your videos haha. I've gotta say, you've gotten me to finally get around to fixing my 3d printer and start some new projects again!
I was curious as to how you added the 'lattice structure' to the inside of the hook before printing it on the mSLA printer. What software did you use to achieve that? I have been trying to figure out how to export the 'sliced' STL models with the infill back to my CAD software to do some FEA using different infills but haven't figured it out yet.
Thanks for your time! Keep up the great quality content
Respect! Great CZcams enrichment.
I bought this "Strong" resin and am very impressed with performance. I had same parts printed with "standard resin" for comparison. The increased performance of this Siraya Tech BLU resin is very impressive and immediately solved a "brittle" issue I had been suffering from. Now I can ship my JST-VH and JST-XH terminal extractor tools (see them at Tindie.com Search: JST) without concern of breaking during use. These parts were printed on a Duplicator D7 Plus clone from Monoprice... also I used the same exposure profile settings as the "standard" resin at a layer height of 0.1mm. I give a big Thumbs Up for this resin. Thank you CNC Kitchen for your valuable efforts.
Letâs see an update of the newer tougher resins plz love your videos they are very educational
The creep u see in the three point bending test is due to stress relaxation. Odds are the resin is displaying viscoelastic properties due to the loading.
Great video btw.
I dont even have a 3d printer and I feel like an expert watching your channel! Thank you!!!!!
I'm just convinced that I will eventually get an SLA of some sort, and it will be an impulse buy that I will scramble to justify to myself with a new hobby. Those test parts are unreasonably pretty.
I was hesitant about buying ABS-Like resins, because I thought there's no way for a resin to be as strong as normal filaments. Now I know I can safely use these resins for more practical applications.
I had not even thought about the clear resin prints. There's probably all kinds of cool stuff you could do with clear resin prints, LEDs, and clever design.
As usual great video!
I'd love a video where you would use your Universal Test Machine to compare Gates belts with no name Chinese brands in different sizes.
For engineering prints I think the only two advantages to resin are the strength along all axis (print orientation layers not affecting strength), and the temperature resistance. Sparkmaker LCD-H for instance can go up to 320C. Typically the higher HDT plastics become harder to print on an FDM printer (warping, hardware to print at higher temperatures, etc.), but on a resin printer it's pour the liquid in, and find the right exposure time. Much easier to print something for extreme temperature resistance on a resin printer.
My toughness test: czcams.com/video/ekDs60QxmNE/video.html
Finally a youtuber who understands the scientific method!
Thanks đ
It would be interesting to see this revisited today, I feel like there are many more options for strong resins on the market now
I love your videos. I learned so much from them. Thank you for another great video
I don't think you meant to say the resin will sanitize your skin {to cleanse of germs} but rather irritate the skin.
Probably sensitize. Goes with the allergic reactions he also mentioned, kind of like a latex allergy due to sensitization over time.
I would like to see ultra clear resin printing lens and mirrors for science projects. Microscope, telescope, fresnel lens, binocular and mirors/lens /beam splitter for hologram fabrication would be awesome!
Thumbs UP, Alex from Québec, Canada
great idea, Evan Morgan (search on youtube) did a project with resin printed magnifying glasses. the optical quality isn't that great due but we are sure it can be further improved.
A comparision to other resins like Anycubic, Elegoo etc. would be nice. However thanks for the video
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JlqLSi4sxZLdA-hHCp6Ow4isoGMNI7nlE9Nmbj1ajWk/edit#gid=0
rsilvers thanks mate, such a comprehensive comparison. Iâm assuming this is a collaboration, can you provide more details? Or maybe some other spreadsheets with other modes of failure? Cheers
@@rsilvers Hope you see this as I am really interested in your findings and looking to buy an SLA printer. I am based in China and have had good experiences dealing with Anycubic so might go for a Photon but in your spreadsheet, somehow the Zortrax prints Blu almost twice as strong as the Photon does. Any idea what that is or if the result can be trusted?
I'm looking into buying resin 3d printer.... thanks for this feature x
Thanks for the info, very scientific.
I was really hoping for a new splash screen since you have your shiny new logo now.
Do you see yourself using sla printers much? Or is it just a novelty for maybe making miniatures?
If you can come up with a test rig to measure heat resistance without poisoning yourself, I'd love to see the results đ
The part in the flex test was deforming because its internal structure, molecules, were realigning into a lower energy state, thus the deformation keeps going until equilibrium is reached or the part snaps due to decrease of the cross section, if said happens the load was already above the parts strength.
Would love to see a solid FDM and a solid resin hook. If the advantage of MSLA is that entire layers print at the same time, it should be more efficient (time) to print a solid resin hook vs. FDM. Great work!
Hi Stefan, great video. I was searching for an ABS-like resin so this was the answer I was looking for. Could you please comment on the DAZZ printer you are using? I'm in the market for a good 47 micron printer and this might be my pick, but there aren't many reviews on it yet. Would love to hear your opinion.
Nice impact charpies man. I used to cut those out on wire edm from various metal assemblies all the time.
I would love to specifically see a compression test of FDM prints vs SLA, Clearly with 100% infill resin would win, But it's worth at least one mention.
Hello, where did you get your printer resin one. Looking for a good one which one you Recommend. Thank u
Stefan, I always see that you have included the notch into the design of your impact test specimens. They are actually supposed to be a straight bar with the notch "cut" out to eliminate the variables due to surface tension on the walls. This is a very important factor for accurate results.
I donât think so much any material or process is better than the other, it is more a case of which material/ process is best suited for the intended purpose. Great testing videođ
Good testing
awesome tests! Did you factor in UV curing times at all?
Nice Charpy impact tester.
Very nice, So Which common material is best for day to day use on the fdm and sla range? Material that has a good strength, less uv impact and durability? Cheers!
Can you test reinforcing hollow prints with expanding foam, polyurethane, or some other pourable curing polymer?
Would be interesting to see how that stacks up vs infill printed parts. That way you can get a part off the printer faster and reinforce it while the next part prints.
TwiztedMatt1007 with the DLP printers the print time is solely dependent on height, so hollow prints have the same build time as solids, only the quantity of resin changes. And a solid part will always be stronger than an infilled piece as the outer layers (bending moment - like an I-beam) or weaker portions (think tensile test) fail first.
I'm actually quite surprised that the toughness stood up so well compared to PLA/PETG. I noticed in this video you did a bend test with weight on it instead of doing a heat test. I'm curious how well resin holds up to similar heats that would bend/warp PLA/PETG. Did you have any data on that? I'm also curious what the print times were for a tray of parts versus FDM, factoring in cleaning and curing?
The reason the deformation jumps as you apply load is due to creep of viscoelastic material. Stress causes nucleation of large polymer chains, followed by preferential entanglement of the broken chains.
You're awesome bro. Thanks
Thanks so much for this, I've actually emailed Creality this morning for some basic information like this, because all they do is show a model Yoda being printed and never an actual Engineering application.
Have you tried the custom infill on these prints? Good job!
Would love to see a bend/drop test or two of a figurine with this resin since it's much less brittle than typical photo resins.
Seems superior when you need equal strength in multiple directions and/or no layer lines. But damn, what a hassle with sticky stuff and curing and such
, very nice... looks like that resin printing needs became easier before I may consider it or I need specific needs for it, Thank you!
Stefan, first: as always you made a great video. Second: I think you unintended put some stress concentrators on the hooks that you tested. On your video you showed one hook that breaks because one of them and I'm pretty sure that the other one also failed because of them too. It would be interesting if you redesign the drain holes and put them on non critical areas under stress.
I noticed that too... the FDM hooks break further up. The infill pattern also looks very coarse(?) compared to the different types he has tested. I couldn't tell if that may have also contributed. With the detail of resin printers I would have expected it to be finer. Possibly that is normally done due to the brittle nature of most resins?
Really curious how well the resin prints resist temperature, hope you test that soon!
Has the thermal performance of resin prints been compared? I.e. heat deflection, etc.
Thanks for this.. BTW i use a form2 as well as FDM printers (zortrax and makergear) and the form2 doesnt smell at all.. not sure why but i am thankful :)
a bit late but the resins from formlabs are made with different materials and ment for office-use.
So they made sure it doenst leave unpleasent smells.