The Basics of Manganese Phosphating (Parkerizing) in HD
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This video shows a fairly good breakdown of the process considering I don't have a camera man to help me film.
I did leave out a few basic things:
1. Invest in a brand new spray bottle and fill it with Acetone or similar degreaser. If you happen to accidentally get a finger print or drop of sweat on your freshly prepared part, you can spray it off with the acetone.
2. Do not skimp on the metal preparation. With the blasting, make sure you are going for a consistent pressure with your air regulator, and that you are going over all the parts of the metal in a even fashion. 90 percent of the finish you get with ANYTHING you are doing, is going to come down to the preparation of the part to be finished. This applies to anything I.E. painting, duracoat, metal refinishing, etc.
3. In terms of degreasing, if you are going to opt for a simple green/purple power bath, make SURE THAT YOU WEAR GLOVES WHILE HANDLING THE METAL FROM THAT POINT ON ESPECIALLY IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A DEGREASER LIKE ACETONE ON HAND TO FIX YOUR MISTAKES. This is very important.
4. You may want to invest in a basic sweat band to keep drops of sweat from falling on your work.
5. If you are doing multiple pieces, make sure you are changing your water rinsing bath out every hour or so.
6. If you want a very traditional parkerizing like you see on WW2 firearms, opt for a zinc phosphating, then allow the parts to sit in a bath of 20-50W motor oil for about 3 months. If you have access to large quantities of cosmoline, that is even better. Warm the cosmoline in a bath and dip the freshly parked parts to insure an even and thorough coating. You will get a beautiful greenish/bluish tint in the metal.
7. With the etching process, do not allow the metal parts to remain in the phosphates for too long after they stop bubbling. At this point, the solutions are actually eating the metal. For instance, if you left a 1911 slide in the heated solutions for say 2days, it would likely be unusable or maybe even gone...lol.
8. If in doubt....DEGREASE, DEGREASE, DEGREASE.
9. Don't skimp on oil/water filters for your compressors.
10. If you really want to be fancy, once you remove your freshly parked part from the tank, blow it bone dry, and instead of following up with a healthy coating or oil, duracoat it.
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Wish you could remake all these old gunsmithing videos with Chad helping film and narrate more with better quality... Would be nice to see!
I really enjoy these Parkerizing videos, and not just because it's my favorite firearm finish. You really do a great job with these videos. Your buddy did a great job with that stock also. Especially considering it's condition before the refurbish.
Hi,
Thank you so much for your upload, I can hardly wait to see how you regenerate the original finish or even better!
Nice video... more detailed and more accurate than some others on this site! Great work!
I’ve been watching your videos for years. Another awesome video brother. Thank you! Thank you for your service as well! I was in Baghdad from 04-09, first with Big Army 04-05 and then with DOD & DOS. Maybe we crossed paths. Small world.
COOL! Its great how youre going into detail about some little things that arnt often discussed. Bravo!
Nice video, you explain things very well. Thanks for making such a detailed video.
Awesome, this is your best stuff IMO.
Very good vid! Thanks for posting
Amazing work and craftsmanship!
✭✭✭✭✭
Great video! Very instructional. I have a question, I just picked up some parkerizing tanks but they are a little rusty. How clean do they need to be as to not affect the process?
Thanks man i watched this about four years ago made a stainless tank got an ultrasonic washer sand blast cabinet i did a bunch of guns for my buddies and made some my own guns look great
If you are parkerizing a rifled barrel, is it okay to let the solution get inside, or do you have to block up the barrel before dipping?
YOU ARE THE BEST.
Very informative it has our business alot
Wonder how many subs Eric had back when this video was posted ? I guarantee you he didn't think that 6 years later he'd be about to break the 1 Million barrier !!!!!!
Very cool video. I've always wondered how this was done.
Thanks for sharing, You have done a great job of instruction. God Bless.
great vid , i had no idea you could do this at home, not that i would
thanks for your time
roger
I love these video's...
Thanks for the info
Would be good to hear from you about plugging the barrel to avoid parking inside the barrel; when/ why to plug the barrel and when/ why not to. Might be interesting to see how you address more difficult to plug situations.
Thanks for the video!
Another thing I wish you had mentioned is the inside of the barrel. I may end up doing this to my m4 barrel BUT my m4 has a chrome lined barrel and even if it didn't I wouldn't want a textured coating and so, how do you prevent this process from affecting the inside of the barrel?
Excellent video. Very informative. Im only left with a few questions... in your after display of the freshly parkerized parts I can see lines of what seem like rust... is thT what it is and why?
i just got my first AK and the finish is rusted off so i removed all of the old bluing
what product should i use to re blue it????
what is the temperature for degreaser would like to hear back asap thank you
Can you tell me the make and model of the sonic cleaner?
thank you,
What prevents the inside of barrel from parkerizing?
Is it good to parkerize the inside of the shotgun barrel?
Simple Green, the best cleaning product Ive ever used.
Awesome video, I would love to be there with you and actually do the job a couple of times. Great video.
Great video, a quick engineering lesson: metal heated to high temperatures oxidizes at a high rate. This may be why this rust occurred.
How did you go about cleaning up that Model 70 stock without ruining the finish?
oh dang keep these LONG vids coming bro
does this affect any chrome lining at all? i.e. chrome lined bore, or inside of ak gas block?
Is it OK to get the parkerizing inside the barrel, or do the ends need to be plugged?
I have a Remington Model 11, 12ga that i need to have refinished? Did this one cycle once parkerized (since barrel retracts into the receiver)? And what would you charge to park or reblue one of these?
how much to fix my 30-30 it was left in water and has beep pitting of rust
what do you think of parkerizing vs gen 3 coating on the ed browns 1911
No need to plug the barrel?
I’m going to attempt to mag phos an old WW1 auto pistol. If I want to plug the barrel to make sure no tolerances are affected, what material could I use to plug barrel that the mag phos will not dissolve or affect?
I was thinking of filling barrel with caulking but not sure if mag phos will eat it up and plus not sure how tough it’d be to clean up. Especially getting it out of the barrel grooves.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank y’all.
Could you list the basics ingredients necessary to parkerized please. I believe a main ingredient is phosphoric acid (ospho) correct? We use it in our shop all the time & get it for less than $20 a gallon. It would be nice if this was the case.
@BlackHeartModer You never want to park a bore that is rifled. Always plug them.
man you and marshalzukov definately know how to restore a rifle thats been through hell and back
Hi-
You have done your research! At 8:29 you mention the low burner temperature. This is very important, as it helps minimize the dramatic increase of total acid and metal precipitation in your Mn phos chemistry. In short, it helps keep the 'good stuff' in the phosphating bath.
if i just want to parkerize a bayonet could i just microwave the solution in a glass container kind of the same idea as your parkerizing small parts video?
How do you maintain a parkerized finish?
When I attempt to apply a coating of oil the applicator (patches, tshirt, etc) always leave major fibers.
Also after applying oil (balistol, clp, hoppes) it seems to work like a dust magnet.
looks like one i just got done restoring, thankfully those Arisakas have chrome lined barrels so they last forever
Instead of blasting can you just sand it? Also do you recommend a parkerizing solution?
Damn, been parkerizing for a long time now and I seem to have relatively successful at many jobs. A friend of mine recently asked me to park his worn out Beretta in.32 Cal. Small pieces (trigger, guide rod, mag follower, etc) parked really nice but the slide is not. Slide comes out of the park solution looking very black, even and holding on (even after brushing with a nylon brush). Then after a couple of days in oil the thing turns light colour again, as if the Park wasn't holding. Any ideas?
Can you store the solution to use at a later date?
The rust looks like that resulting from Hydrochloric Acid ( HCl or Muriatic Acid). This can be from storing pool acid or HCl in the same room as finished metal. It could have been from a fire as well, as there is a lot of common paints , furniture, and household items that contain PVC, Polyvinyl Chloride. When PVC is involved in a fire, it gives off HCl or Phosgene, which reacts with water to make HCl. No pool acid around finished metal.
Thanks so much. Although my Dad was a gunsmith and specialized in bluing, he got out of it when I was young and I never understood it really. He passed 25 years ago, so I can't ask. He probably knew about Parkerizing, may have done it, I don't know. I want to use this process on some antique replica motorcycles I've built. What type of oil do you use at the end of this process?
@460weatherbymagnum Yes i have heard of that is it like slow rust bluing right. I have completed courses in engineering and i find myself very interested in gun smithing any advice.
What about parkerizing Holley Carburetor parts ? Does parkerizing only do steel parts ?
fire can liberate/steam etc water into the air and then it condenses on any cold surface, i made a hell of a mess of my workshop by having a butane heater in there one winter, in a few hours use it rusted my lathe/bandsaw etc, took ages with wire wool and oil to get everything back to normal.
Locate the park tanks near an exhaust fan, the caustic nature of the fumes from it will rust everything in your shop. Its also not good to be breathing it for any length of time.
Nice work, done a fair bit of it myself and love the results.
I would suggest boiling the metal for 45 min-hour before parking to convert the rust to bluing. If you don't then you could trap rust and it will continue to corrode after parkerizing.
are those watering troughs for cattle or swine? they look like it!. good video always been interested in parkerizing but thought it was much harder for some reason.
hi do you know the method mossberg uses to paint marinecote shotguns? is it better than the parkeise, does it scratch easier?
what about the inside of the barrel?... I'm currently bringing back my old ak 47 that I gave to my dad (with roughly 500 rds fired at the time) and he used it as a stash gun while I was away and it suffered water damage for an extended period of time until he checked on it and found that moisture had gotten to it... I walked into the shop one day and found him buffing it with a wire wheel on a 4" grinder and I hastily took it from him... thankfully my ex got me a blasting cabinet before she left and I was able to take it down to fresh metal and clean it up... I had wanted to cerakote it all but skimped out and bought gunkote instead just to simplify it somewhat... now I'm thinking that there's going to be a lot of unprotected areas or even worse some clogged ones but thankfully it's a Kalashnikov and should work regardless of how it looks afterwards.
any advice from you with this project would be greatly appreciated.
where did u get the long tank? I have some 22" plus barrels I wanna do and I cant find anything that long. Also what about the bore? should it be plugged prior to the dip?
Do you think the Simple Green works as good as Dicro 909 from Brownells? I do black oxide bluing and I'm looking for a cheaper solution
Do you do parkerizing? And if so where are you located? Should I parkerize or blue an M1 garand?
So if I have a chrome lined barrel in the white, it's perfectly OK to just drop it in and park away... unplugged? Is that correct?
do you have to use steel tanks?? an do you have to blast the rifle parts or can you just sand.. sorry i am new to this..... thanks
Had the same happen to my guns in a fire. Need to follow this process and save them.
Hey IV are u suposed to plug up shot gun barrels or is it ok to parcarize the inside the barrel?
So you parkerized the inside of your barrel as well? Or did you plug the barrel off?
Great video, do you seal the rifle bore pre Parkerizing. The tank I use was from E Bay a simple large stainless steel fish boiler £ 15 Uk inc postal
I know its been a while since your question but it is a very good question and should be answered in case others have the same question.
The answer is yes you should certainly plug the bore as parkerizing is actually etching the metal. Basically it is corroding it which is exactly why if you sand to 400 grit instead of bead blasting the sanding scratches melt away and gives pretty much the same finish. So if it is capable of dissolving the sanding scratches imagine what it would do to rifling. Not plugging would likely ruin the rifling especially in cases they are using micro-rifling process such as Marlin uses.
Traditionally guns are blued which is adding a coat of iron oxide and converting it to black oxide which gives the impression the parkerizing process does similar but it does not. It does not add anything to the metal but converts the surface to a more porous surface ready to accept a finish. In a lot of cases it is either paint or oil which finishes it. Parkerized parts left untreated with oil will rust and start to corrode and it does not inhibit rusting at all that is the job of the oil that seeps into the tiny holes in the surface.
So why does Parkerized military guns last? The answer is cosmoline and it is seeped so deep into the surface pores it then protects it without a need to oil often and I think everyone knows how hard i is to remove cosmoline.
FYI if you parkerize a part and choose to oil it and then decide you would rather paint the surface to further protect it then heat the part with a heat gun to where the oil is smoking and drying up and drop it in acetone this opens the pores and the acetone is allowed to clean them out and then you should be ok to paint the surface with something like matte black ceramic engine paint or header paint. Both are literally the same as duracoat but a bit cheaper and more available at auto part stores and need to be baked to harden the ceramic in it as well. Doing the paint will completely eliminate the need to oil as long as it is not ever chipped or scratched. However it is honestly easier to just keep the surface oiled.
I am currently trying to fill the pores with a graphite grease I picked up on a 1911 slide because it is a dry lubricant and the grease should inhibit rust while the graphite should keep it smooth. I only applied it to the rails and locking lugs and the ejector area it slides through if you do the whole slide you would probably have black hands after every use of the gun. What it should also do is make people only have to lap the rails to their 80% builds as the graphite grease should be held in place on the rough lapped surface or someone could spend 6 hours finely polishing the rails lol.
Hey man, I have a question. I am doing Zinc phosphate, and I have read that for the first time you mix the solution, you are supposed to add iron powder, then you never have to add more again. But, I've never heard if this or seen anything else on it... ? Do you know anything about this? And can you give me some insight on what my solution mix to water ratio should be for zinc? Thank you so much
Sorry, but I didnt get which chemicals are in the bath to make the phosphated surface. What did you use exactly? Thanks
ware can I find a pan that long I just use a 14inch mud pan but I need do it to a nagant.
FYI for OP: If they were in a fire, they didn't have to burn or even get hot for that rust to occur. The hot smoke and resulting soot is highly toxic and corrosive. When it contacts almost anything metal it bonds to it and what you have is the result. My attached garage burned to the ground but didn't make it into the house. Even so, everything metal in the house corroded and rusted just like your guns. Anything that came in contact with the smoke/soot was trashed.
What kind of Ultra sonic cleaner is that you cleaned the parts in?
What do the nitrous tanks go in????
How does this effect the bore of the rifle?
i have a ptr91 reciever in the white that i want to parkerize. now, if i put it in the solution like that, its gonna parkerize the inside aswell, is that gonna cause any trouble with the bolt running inside it later?
TheAngler2210 I wouldn't park that chamber. if you do sand it off or blast it off
Wish my SKS came out these good. I send off to a local guy and he did a shit job. Any ideas on how to fix her up still has some rust spots ?
Parkerizing changes dimensions so what do you do to protect machined and mating surfaces? For example, machined pinholes and rails should not be Parkerized. How can these surfaces be protected from Parkerizing?
is parkerising the best finish someone can do themselves ?
Any experience on how the parkerizing finish would look like if you do it on polished surface? No biggie if no reply. I will find out in 3-6 months anyway thanks to your videos. ;)
Hey Vet8888, what is a fair price range to have a a rifle parkerized?
Can you tell me where you get those troughs?
How much would it cost to parkerize an SKS ?
how did you clean that stock up?
Is the waterbath also distilled water? Just curious. Great video as usual!
Quick way to show how a ultra sonic system works is to get a square wire frame and put one sheet of aluminum foil on it, dunk in the system and it will show the marks where the system waves hit. Pretty cool and functional test for yr system
Wouldn't it be more efficient to get the rust off, then put them in the ultrasonic?
@ 6:45 what do you call those tubs? Where can I get something like that?
Brownells sells them. I think they call them chemical tanks?
I searched them. Stainless tanks, and black iron tanks.
its proably possible to remove the rust electrochemically if you don't happen to have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. all you should need is a salt, baking soda, water solution and a piece of aluminum or copper and maybe a battery (esp if you use copper)
anyway what Temp are you heating the solution to???
I noticed you didn't plug the barrels. I'm getting ready to try this and just assumed that was necessary - is it not? LOVE your videos btw!!!!
looks good would love to see a blueing video as well sense your doing blueing on that mag well anyways lol
@Iraqveteran8888 Where do you get the silicone plugs?
Is that an old 87a on the left?
I believe he's referring to it being unfortunate that it was in the fire. Arisakas are quite rare, especially early models that were properly constructed.
I have a beat up sistema colt 1911 that'll be getting parked. This video was really handy, and actually, I was dreading this project, but it doesn't really look to be that horrible to attempt. haha.
parkerize, i did mine with lauer, but i used zinc instead of manganese, as i like gray more than black
Is there a reason the water bath is in a copper container?
zink very cool dark gray
The smoke and heat will make metal rust in a fire. The moisture kicks the process off, and the heat speeds up the chemical reaction.