DIY - Homemade Parkerizing Solution - How To Etch a Knife
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- In this video the Outdoor Experiment takes you through parkerizing a knife with a homemade black manganese parkerizing solution. Though the finish was not perfect we successfully put a phosphate coating on a knife used as a bayonet on a HK-93 style rifle.
This homemade recipe is very similar to solutions sold at major sporting goods retailers such as Brownells and provides a protective metal finish that functions by holding oil on the surface layer of knife steel which inhibits rust and other corrosion.
The parkerized finish also helped to match the knife blade finish to the Century Arms International C93 Sporting rifle that it was intended to be used with.
We also have a corresponding blog post with more details and a step by step guide on this home parkerizing system:
www.outdoorexperiment.com/2014...
Soundtrack Credits:
"Engine Fire" by Silent Partner
"Fortaleza" by Topher Mohr and Alex Elena - Jak na to + styl
I dig the 5 gallon sandblast cabinet!
With some of my guns I park the small springs. So far they have held up and not caused any problems. I in no way am saying it is okay to park springs, I am just lazy sometimes and said "why not? let's see if it hurts them" so far so good. The bucket you sand blast with, that is an awesome idea, I liked it.
Hi and thanks for the great idea homemade sand blasting pail....made one myself works great...I use it for car parts..gun parts etc...thanks for sharing...great video....Canada
one of the best parkerizing here.
I "WILL TRY" This Simple, not too much temp, easy ingredients already in my shop! NICE!
Rust oxiding a musket barrel as I type. just finished KN03 bluing lock and other bits, with casehardened hammer frizin.
I have done some Industrial passivation, so this looks great, I love the mat dark gray green.
I am quite SURE the different colors are due to prep of surfaces.
I use acetone 1st, then about the same temp(80c) trisodium phosphate and water 2nd, rinse clean and hot, then into the etching or coating solution.
that blast bucket is awesome. I'll be making one
Right on!
I moved this video over to favorites years ago.I'm doing it.
Do it!
good job bro
dip several times while scrubbing for a few seconds with a clean toothbrush between each dip...you'll get more uniformity.
Can you get MnO2 from a USED battery, or is a new battery part of the cost of this procedure? Thanks.
The batteries I'm cutting apart, the manganese oxide has liquid in it. Ive tried 2 batteries with the same result. Did you run into this when you cut batteries open?
This is an interesting video, I have been looking into different homemade knife coatings, there is not a lot that are not just paint of some kind. Can I ask though, what is the purpose of the steel wool in the solution?
You are essentially corroding (like rusting) your steel but doing it in a manner that leaves a tough protective layer i.e. iron phosphate. Too much and you may ruin it... the steel wool helps dampen corrosion/etching/rusting and starts the parkerizing/iron phosphate reaction.
The steel wool reacts with the phosphoric acid and starts the reaction that will happen on your parts once you dunk them in. If you dunk your metal parts into the acid bath without putting steel or steel wool in there first the acid bath may start to etch your parts but not create a lot of iron phosphate until more iron has been mixed into the solution. This basically means more etching (usually undesirable) and less phosphate coating what you are trying to accomplish. Etching is basically eating away at your steel.
This form of parkerizing can be made to work but there a lot of variables so be sure to experiment with like metal pieces first and keep track of your mixtures. Also keep in mind tolerances on parts will change so you could ruin small parts especially pinions, screws, springs or any other steel parts that sit flush and/or tight.
The ingredients are relatively cheap compaired to the kits you can purchase off of Brownells or taking to a gunsmith and that is the main reason for doing this, that's not to say that it's the best way or that there isn't a better solution out there. I also like to experiment and learn and this is a good way to do it. Just be careful not to get phosphoric acid over everything and you should be alright.
clkindred The phosphoric bath could be strained after the steel wool is added. I think the hardest part about this method is getting the manganese to suspend in the solution and not making a mess. Also, I think the lines in the knife blade line up with the stainless steel wires used to suspend them. Not sure how the stainless wire reacted with the steel maybe it made it hotter but I also think it may have helped trap the manganese close to the etched surface and added more manganese to it... will have to experiment again and see if I can do better next time.
clkindred Saw your channel and subscribed. Wanted to make my own foundry for a while now just never seem to have the space at the places I live.Saw your videos on the stove, like them. Tried making a few of my own stove designs as well but have yet to come up with a significant improvement on anything that has been done before. Working on homemade shooting sticks and a couple of knife projects. IT's hard to find quality chunks of forged 1095 steel that aren't way over priced. ANy ideas?
Thanks, I was experimenting with a product called ospho. Looks from the MSDS to be very similar to the kleen strip. I was using it with electrolysis to put an iron phosphate coating on some test samples. I used a stainless steel anode, and the test part as the cathode. Voltages renged from 3.3v to 12v. It seemed to work okay on the small test pieces, the coating was more of a gray color.
I would like to add manganese dioxide to the solution, but it seems batterys have some other stuff mixed in, like iron cloride, and insoluable carbon. I might try purifying a bit to see if I can remove the contamination.
Interesting. I have an Ontario Chimera and it came with large blotches and wonder how that is possible. i thought it would be uniform, but no. Even after soaking in oil, those blotches remain. So is this typical of parkerizing? Or how is it that Ontario does it this way? Not clean enough?
I do not know exactly.
Nice. But isnt this iron phosphating? i think only zinc-carbon batteries have manganese dioxide. Alkaline batteries are potassium hydroxide?
Not sure. It worked. Don't care.
What size air compressor did you use with that blaster?
+AKBuilder762 It was tiny.. Husky 3 Gallon. kind of stunk because it kept running out of air. But it worked. Usually a bigger tank makes it way better. The gun was $15 from harbor freight and was more than good enough. Sorry for the delay in reply have been really busy lately.
Getting a uniform finish is easy. Take it out of the solution from time to time and steel wool it off then back into the solution.
Looks nice, but one question: why do you put the steel wool in the solution? The more I think about it, doesn't it pollute the solution an make it less reactive, as the solution eats away the steel wool and forms iron salts floating around. You might get a darker and thicker finish if you put the parts in fresh solution of acid and manganese oxide :)
k4rtturi im not a chemist so i don not know the exact chemical reaction that is taking place but... u need to get the reaction started with the steel wool. If u just dropped the parts in without the steel wool u would etch the steel faster and might not even get a finish. Not all reactions are stable.
Thanks! I think I see what you mean, but then again I've seen other gunsmithing videos where you'd specifically put the parts in clean solution, and I looked quickly at a technical paper where they said that iron phosphates are considered a harmful contaminant that will make the solution less effective and alter the resulting coating because there will be less manganese phosphates deposited in the surface. So my hunch is that if you want that kind of thick coarse black parkerizing, straight phosphoric acid solution might be the way to go. But maybe that's beside the point, if you get a surface finish that works and you like the looks of with steel wool, then that's a success. :)
Right and solutions, mixtures and methods will vary... Always best to test on something you can throw out first.
So black stuff, steelwool and muriatic acid???
No. Phosphoric acid, manganese phosphate (black stuff) and a little steel wool.
@@Outdoorexperiment tnx
lastchapter No problem.
just cerakote it yourself if you want a nice durable finish
the tongs made the marks on the blade...
that looks like a hk g3 bayonet
Bayonets are like parachutes!!!
This came out blotchy and uneven because you used contaminated dioxide. Try again with 99% manganese and the coating will be thicker and more durable.
ok thank you!
I think this guy needs a new tshirt... 🤔