Honda Element Front Brake Job (Calipers, Rotors, Pads..)
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Step by step overview of a major front brake job on a 2005 Honda Element (similar on a Honda CRV)
New pads and rotors and rebuilt caliper (as good as new)
DISCLAIMER:
This an EDITED OVERVIEW video to show what is involved for the job.
For detailed procedures like bleeding brakes or torquing nuts...etc consult a tech manual or visit a professional mechanic youtuber like ETCG, Scotty Kilmer, Chrissfix and many others
thanks for the video and double thanks for getting right to the work, up close, well lit, and in focus without any talking
I appreciate your feedback
That was a fantastic video!
Anti seize on the ends of the pads where it slides on the brackets is also a good idea. Thanks for sharing!
I agree, thanks for your comment
he doesnt know what he's doing.... he put grease between the pad and metal plate... contacts are good but thats a waste like not even... might even add to transfering more heat which I guess could be good as heat sink but it could also insulate the heat... kinda like cpu compound on a motherboard... Id say thats asking for a broken pad at 1/8 inch that heat will bake em like clay and bam snap...
yeah the sliders and the piston contact is it... extra grease is extra road grime sticking to it creating a sludge of a mess...
Thanks so much Joe! This is my Saturday project tomorrow.
your welcome
Dangerous brake bleed, clamp all brake hoses before removal! Grease back of pads and where the pad meets the slide clips. For brake bleed pump the brake and hold it while someone loosens the drain nut. Repeat from RR to LF to LR to RF
Great vid....but....some anti-seize between the hub face and back of the rotor would've been great so you won't get into another fight with the rotor the next servicing...just sayin
Good idea...thanks
WOW 😮....Those calipers!!!
Thanks for your feedback
Thanks for posting. I plan to try this soon. I didn't see a video on removing the rotor. Did you ever post it? Also wondering if you have a reference for where you bought your parts?
+ezod52 Hi, My rotors were so stuck. I had to chisel them out. check ETCG or CHRISFIX youtube channel for good rotor removal video, brake pads were Honda, rotors were from Prime choice (Ebay) and rebuilt calipers from Napa Auto.
+Joe Baker great - thanks for the info
Did you use an assistant to help bleed the brakes or can it be done by yourself?
Its easier with an assitant, but you can do it by yourself with a brake bleeder
Also for the Element, dont floor the brake pedal when you pump. It could damaged the master cylinder
weird..... I noticed your clips are too short for your rotor.. you just turned it and got the screech .... then the camera was stopped and started again.... so what happened? Thats vital insight... and why no speakee?
What do you think about the idea of lightly resurfacing the new rotors? I've done it before to remove any coating or residue (I worked in a shop) and was surprised to see they took the metal off unevenly.
Also, when I do the brakes on my '05 Element I'm putting on the Acura sport brakes set as they are built heavier. There's no doubt the Element is heavier than the CR/V and could use the beefier pad size and cooling channels.
Acura brake on a Element is awesome, you will notice the difference right away (check out my video). If the labour cost make sens, resurfacing rotors is fine .
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox , I'm the labor, lol.
Do you think these brake sets sold on Ebay for $150 - $200 an axle are safe to use? (rotor, caliper, ceramic pads).
And nobody ever mentions wheel bearings anymore, are they sealed for life these days?
Thanks again.
I don’t trust EBay, I prefer premium brand from my local part store. Bearings wear out eventually but should last a long time on a well balance straight wheel.
How do I know when I've bled the brake enough?
When you see the fluid coming out of the bleeding tube is clean and clear and free of air bubbles, also your brake pedal will feel firmer
excellent
Thanks....cheers
What the heck is that black stuff in the packet? Grease?
M-77 paste. It prevents the brakes from squealing.
I see a whole lot of unscrewing but it doesn't show WHAT and WHERE. on to the next video.
How has everything held up since doing this?
Excellent, still look good and work fine after 2 years. Although the passenger side caliper failed this summer (piston seized). Under warranty, just swapped for a new one, no charge.
do you find the drilled out rotors have a noticeable difference? I though those were just for sports cars
honestly, I do not feel any difference from regular rotors, just looks better
What is up with those calipers? Is someone driving around in the ocean and not rinsing them off?
Winter up north does that
Joe do the 2 small screws that hold the rotor in place, if they break, are they really necessary?
apparently, they have no structural purpose, just there to keep the rotor stable for brake assembling. In the past, I had brake job done by pro shop and they did not install them.
that is one rusty fucken caliper
Life on the rust belt...
If you only change one of the 4 calipers, do you have to bleed the other 3???
there is lots of debate about bleeding all 4 for one repair, personally, I only bleed the ones that had work done and never had any problems doing it that way. although I do bleed the whole system every 3 years, usually combined with some type of break job.
Joe Baker Thank you for your input.
What calipers and rotors did you use ?
For caliper and rotor I go for Premium house brand at my local Auto parts store they usually offer a good warranty on the those parts, so if something goes wrong they exchange it no problem
Which rotors did you use?
Premium "No name" brand from an online supplier. Work out fine