Haven't commented on the series yet, but have watched every episode. I bought an E46 M3 back in September and I'm undergoing a full rehaul like this series but only to the point of my limited mechanic skills (used to tinkering on motorbikes) before I off load it to the professionals. Currently doing the suspension and steering rack with brakes/wheel bearings to come then give it to someone for rod bearings etc. It's fantastic to see all the work, I'm checking every week for new videos! Keep up the great work guys, really can't praise you enough.
Glad we're helping you get an idea of all the common areas that need fixing, most of the stuff is pretty DIY but the rod bearings are something that we'd leave to the pros if you don't have the tools or the space. Good luck with your M3, it's a fantastic car!
@@speedacademy Cheers for that guys! Had a E46 330 for over 10 years, figured I'd add it's bigger brother to the stable. Keep up the fab work, looking forward to more M3 videos.
It is a self-bleeding coolant system. The coolant tank is the highest point. And as other have posted, the blue BMW coolant is the correct coolant for the S54.
Bleed the coolingsystem buy turning key to position 2, heat on max and fan on lowest the bleed it using the bleedinh screw on the expansionstank untill airfree coolant is Coming out, Screw in the bleedingscrew and let the last airbubbles come out from the expansiontank. Close it. Start the car go for a drive and check the temp gauge. Redo If needed until all air id out
To bleed the system you have to remove the bleed screw. Then fill till you see coolant coming out the screw hole. Start the car with heater on high heat low fan speed once you feel heat your good. You might need add a little more coolant after a drive. Great job on this build guys! Happy she running again.
My '98 Connie Sellecca also needs ATF in the manual box. Funnily enough the service manual and Toyota dealership didn't know this. However, when I put manual transmission fluid in it was incredibly hard to shift. Some old-timer overheard me and said oh yeah, there was a service bulletin about that, just use ATF. No more problems. Thanks old man.
i can't help but to notice that i didn't see any anti-seize put on those spines and inner bearing race. you may have to get that stuff apart in the future. good video
With as hard as the driveshaft was to separate. I think anti-seize would have been a better choice on the splines instead of grease. That's what I use on my vehicles. I'm in Minnesota so I feel your pain of working on rusty vehicles. I know it all too well.
I thought 10W60 was a bad oil for the BMWs causing their bearings to fail? Great build guys. When it comes to coolant, ALWAYS fill very slowly no matter how fancy your tools are. No glugs. Steady flow with the bleed screw open.
Bleeder valve located on top drivers side radiator hose coupling. When you start the car, put heater on high, open bleeder valve and wait for steady stream of coolant without bubbles to come from bleeder valve and check to top off coolant level.
The coolant vacuum bleeders are the best thing ever at least my snap-on one is. Leave it pulling vacuum till all the hoses have collapsed and it should fill it up.
At least for people in the UK the problem you have with rust and seized bolts due to the Canadian climate is more realistic for us than when we see people working on cars in the US when the underside of cars looks nothing like the state of the cars we see.
For bleeding the cooling system: turn ignition on, set the heater to max temperature and fan to lowest setting. Then fill it up, close the lid and let the engine run until the thermostat opens. Stop the engine and let it cool down again, top up the coolant if necessary
A lot of comments are referring to the coolant fill procedure if not using a vacuum bleeder. Not relevant here other than turning the heat to max and fan on low setting to open the heater circuit prior to filling, then running the car till the thermostat opens, and then setting the coolant level once the car cools down. In the video you mentioned the car is not holding a vacuum. This means you either didn't cap the overflow hose (rubber hose to the side of the expansion tank cap that runs in the passenger side well) or you actually have a leak somewhere in the cooling system. When a vacuum is pulled on the system you want to close the valve and let it sit for 30 seconds or so and ensure the gauge doesn't move thus verifying the system is leak free.
I'm kind of mad. I thought I was original with my drift m3 vert idea. You guys are definitely getting yours done faster lol. I'm getting a lot of great ideas from your videos though so I'll let it slide.
Hey guys love the series!!! I just wanted to know if the diff makes any noises on your first couple of drives. I keep hearing that using the non-oem diff fluid still causes the thing to make noise. Guys on forums seem to love pushing the oem stuff with bmw's own "fm-booster". Personally I think it's horrendously expensive for the oem stuff so would love to get your opinion. Thanks and keep up the awesome content!!!
I did a manual swap on my 98 328i. I did it all in my garage, largely by myself, except one thing. The center support bearing. I spent half a day trying to remove the old one and replace it. Ended up taking it to a shop, who did it in 20 minutes. Easily the worst part of the swap 😭
@@ThatMaximaKid which would fall under green coolant, you can mix green and blue bmw coolant with no issues. The only difference are the dyes and maybe a few extra silicate inhibitors. Orange coolant is acid based and should never be used in a car that does use an orange colored coolant. If it was so imperative then no one would buy generic coolants.
I could have sworn you had to hold the accelerator pedal with the key to on, as that will run the electric water pump and bleed the air from the system.
Here is a link to the cooling system refiller I purchased. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW39HJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I refilled a diesel truck cooling system via a 5 gallon bucket with this and had zero issues.
Rod Bearings = full engine rebuild for most people. Do the math, it's 4K + the cost of repairs. Also a vert in Eastern Canada isn't worth that much since you only want to use it half the year.
@@DeathOrGloryRacingBCRod Bearings are a $600 job for the good bearings and ARP bolts. This engine doesn't often need rebuilt so it's not $4000 for bearings.
Please just use Castrol or Liqui Moly 10w-60. I don't know 1 person who uses redline engine oil in their m3! also it takes blue coolant. You'll only need 1 bottle to mix with water so buy BMW brand coolant for $10-$20 US. No burping technique. Over the next week just open the coolant cap after driving it.
IDK if you guys know about these sites, but www.realoem.com and www.newtis.info are 2 of the best sites for working on BMW's. I had never done anything more than an intake gasket, and through the use of these 2 sites I've managed to complete a full teardown and rebuild of my S54. If you guys have any questions or issues with coding on this car, I'd be glad to help!
ZDDP = Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate. Most common anti-wear chemistry used in motor oils. Tends to poison Catalysts if too much used. You are welcome :-)
David Gray I don’t have any experience directly but OEMs have been hammering away at Industry for low phos oils as it impacts emission warrantys which are expensive for them. 0.08% wt phos seems to make most OEMs happy and that is with vehicles with closed crankcase ventilation. I would imagine open helps directionally but phos can end up in tailpipe emissions by being the oil passing the rings etc. This would be a great conversation with some of the specialist oil marketers who have oils for race applications etc. They must have looked into this.
Haven't commented on the series yet, but have watched every episode. I bought an E46 M3 back in September and I'm undergoing a full rehaul like this series but only to the point of my limited mechanic skills (used to tinkering on motorbikes) before I off load it to the professionals. Currently doing the suspension and steering rack with brakes/wheel bearings to come then give it to someone for rod bearings etc. It's fantastic to see all the work, I'm checking every week for new videos! Keep up the great work guys, really can't praise you enough.
Hell yea bud, good luck with it!
Glad we're helping you get an idea of all the common areas that need fixing, most of the stuff is pretty DIY but the rod bearings are something that we'd leave to the pros if you don't have the tools or the space. Good luck with your M3, it's a fantastic car!
@@speedacademy Cheers for that guys! Had a E46 330 for over 10 years, figured I'd add it's bigger brother to the stable. Keep up the fab work, looking forward to more M3 videos.
It is a self-bleeding coolant system. The coolant tank is the highest point. And as other have posted, the blue BMW coolant is the correct coolant for the S54.
Great test of Canadian Manliness. And you weren't found wanting. Surely Moose could of given it a stern look and the drive shaft would fall in 2
Some say whenever a BMW engine returns from the dead that the Moose will magically appear.
Bleed the coolingsystem buy turning key to position 2, heat on max and fan on lowest the bleed it using the bleedinh screw on the expansionstank untill airfree coolant is Coming out, Screw in the bleedingscrew and let the last airbubbles come out from the expansiontank. Close it. Start the car go for a drive and check the temp gauge. Redo If needed until all air id out
To bleed the system you have to remove the bleed screw. Then fill till you see coolant coming out the screw hole. Start the car with heater on high heat low fan speed once you feel heat your good. You might need add a little more coolant after a drive. Great job on this build guys! Happy she running again.
My '98 Connie Sellecca also needs ATF in the manual box. Funnily enough the service manual and Toyota dealership didn't know this. However, when I put manual transmission fluid in it was incredibly hard to shift. Some old-timer overheard me and said oh yeah, there was a service bulletin about that, just use ATF. No more problems. Thanks old man.
This is Definitley a canadian AF Episode!! how to show your bmw driveshaft whos boss!!
could you guys do a list of what you spent (including the car) on this car?
i can't help but to notice that i didn't see any anti-seize put on those spines and inner bearing race. you may have to get that stuff apart in the future. good video
You guys are srsly cool!
I love the way you are tackling problems, yet so calm when things go sour. It's amazing to follow !!!
Genuinely had a huge smile on my face when it started up. Great job guys!
Wow, this episode was like a rollercoaster of emotions, so intense and fun.
With as hard as the driveshaft was to separate. I think anti-seize would have been a better choice on the splines instead of grease. That's what I use on my vehicles. I'm in Minnesota so I feel your pain of working on rusty vehicles. I know it all too well.
Dave on the tools!
Epic double team
this episode was a rollercoaster of emotions
I thought 10W60 was a bad oil for the BMWs causing their bearings to fail? Great build guys. When it comes to coolant, ALWAYS fill very slowly no matter how fancy your tools are. No glugs. Steady flow with the bleed screw open.
Got to say, the start up was exciting.
Guys, you NEED to paint those brake calipers please! Pleeeaase! It will look so much better ...
its a drift car... the calipers is the least of the problems
Just repainted my e46 m3 brake calipers black. Very clean
Bleeder valve located on top drivers side radiator hose coupling. When you start the car, put heater on high, open bleeder valve and wait for steady stream of coolant without bubbles to come from bleeder valve and check to top off coolant level.
Congratulations!!
I have that same Pittsburg 1/2" extending ratchet, good shit, it's served me well for 4 years.
Right on guys can’t wait to see this thing rip!
14:54 the look on PT's face is priceless ^_____^
The coolant vacuum bleeders are the best thing ever at least my snap-on one is. Leave it pulling vacuum till all the hoses have collapsed and it should fill it up.
Fantastic job !
I like how moose appears with the engine roar!😂
At least for people in the UK the problem you have with rust and seized bolts due to the Canadian climate is more realistic for us than when we see people working on cars in the US when the underside of cars looks nothing like the state of the cars we see.
For bleeding the cooling system: turn ignition on, set the heater to max temperature and fan to lowest setting. Then fill it up, close the lid and let the engine run until the thermostat opens. Stop the engine and let it cool down again, top up the coolant if necessary
Nice video man ✌️✌️
Love this car
3:30 I can smell it from here!
so much excitement for the first start> gerat work and there is a plastic bleed screw on the entry hose to the radiator
Great job!!
BLUE FLUID, NOT GREEN! Aghhhh! And lift the front end up to burp the car
Fear the Green Goo accumulation!
Yess!! I dont even like bmws but I enjoy this build! Lots of great info!
It’s looking really good!
Air intake mod too. Great content.
A lot of comments are referring to the coolant fill procedure if not using a vacuum bleeder. Not relevant here other than turning the heat to max and fan on low setting to open the heater circuit prior to filling, then running the car till the thermostat opens, and then setting the coolant level once the car cools down. In the video you mentioned the car is not holding a vacuum. This means you either didn't cap the overflow hose (rubber hose to the side of the expansion tank cap that runs in the passenger side well) or you actually have a leak somewhere in the cooling system. When a vacuum is pulled on the system you want to close the valve and let it sit for 30 seconds or so and ensure the gauge doesn't move thus verifying the system is leak free.
I usually keep the funnel in the fill about halfway full and let the air burp out of the system as it warms up
I'm kind of mad. I thought I was original with my drift m3 vert idea. You guys are definitely getting yours done faster lol. I'm getting a lot of great ideas from your videos though so I'll let it slide.
FINALLY SHE RUNS!
Hell ya brother! Cheers from Iraq.
What are you using to clean out the PowerBleeder between fluids?
New fluid lol, we usually flip it upside down to drain.
Fuck yeah, you pull it out that thing 👌
dont use 10 - 60 in cold weather climates, that is the reason why the bottom end bearings go. A good 5-40 does wonders.
Yup 10W60 is just for trackdays, hot weather and or aggressive driving, 0W40 synthetic is fine for the winter.
I lol’d too hard at the thumbnail 🤣
Hey guys love the series!!! I just wanted to know if the diff makes any noises on your first couple of drives. I keep hearing that using the non-oem diff fluid still causes the thing to make noise. Guys on forums seem to love pushing the oem stuff with bmw's own "fm-booster". Personally I think it's horrendously expensive for the oem stuff so would love to get your opinion. Thanks and keep up the awesome content!!!
Nice!!!!!!! great job guys.
Congrats!!!!
Water wetter and distilled water only. You're welcome :)
12:47 reminded me of the "TGRI Ooze" lol
Oddly enough, same drive shaft setup on an 85' 3 series.
Yeah the two piece driveshaft is just a german design Mercedes have a similar design. Gotta love the guibos and csb....
I did a manual swap on my 98 328i. I did it all in my garage, largely by myself, except one thing. The center support bearing. I spent half a day trying to remove the old one and replace it. Ended up taking it to a shop, who did it in 20 minutes. Easily the worst part of the swap 😭
a lot of "aftermarket" parts like that are actually oem. bmw just rebrands the stuff and sells at the dealership. usually same manufacturer.
hahaha that thumbnail made me lol
You can use BMW in the markings, just not the bmw logo on aftermarket parts. nice series btw!
Haha ! VICTORY !!
Might wanna add some ballast to that workbench. :-)
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA WHEN THE COOLANT SPRAYED HAhahahahhaa
i live in toronto so i will see u this summer at Toronto motorsportspark
You guys need a less-wobbly bench for your vise!
These don’t take green coolant
Great point! We'll be changing it out to the proper one.
lol its not domestic so what coolant is it gonnat ake red or purple?
@@xpeacemaster blue
@@ThatMaximaKid which would fall under green coolant, you can mix green and blue bmw coolant with no issues. The only difference are the dyes and maybe a few extra silicate inhibitors. Orange coolant is acid based and should never be used in a car that does use an orange colored coolant. If it was so imperative then no one would buy generic coolants.
blue bmw coolant AND distilled water (50:50) is the sole recommendation from MFG
I could have sworn you had to hold the accelerator pedal with the key to on, as that will run the electric water pump and bleed the air from the system.
Rolando Tillit no, E46’s have manual waterpumps.
MAC tools has a vacuum filler thats about a $100 and works like a charm...fyi
Blue coolant for bmw
Bring back the s2000 to battle this car!
Can we get an update on the e28?
"Easy job" :DD
Please let us know how much the transmission chatters with the clutch setup. Im in between ordering clutches
Aren't you supposed to use zerex's blue coolant?
My m is still in the shop. Why did this car starting up make me feel so good inside?
I've seen the tool before, but what is the tool called u use to heat the bolts and shit up?
No one strokes it like Pete does.
I wonder what's better for BMW's Amsoil or the red line Oil
*_R I C K F L A I R_*
FYI, part 19 is missing from the playlist! But it's here if anyone wants it: czcams.com/video/wd988ld30ms/video.html
This BMW is gonna be extemely reliable... said no one ever lol
Don't use impact on a puller..
It bothers me too. Without extreme lubrication it will destroy those threads. They’re lucky it hasn’t yet.
Here is a link to the cooling system refiller I purchased.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW39HJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I refilled a diesel truck cooling system via a 5 gallon bucket with this and had zero issues.
Can you say the total build cost?
Yep, will talk about it once the M3 is finished.
Someone needs to make a gif out out of 3:18
duh febi bilstein is great quality i use it on my peugeot aswell
I'm sure blue coolant is supposed to go there.
Only wish I have is if there were a turbo involved !
x-hook Tow Hook turbo on S54 is like supercharger on 2JZ. There is gain but there is no point.
e46 m3 is known for its NA engine, but there is supercharger kits.
$4000.00 ..... Your viewers ain't dumb ha.
That was the purchase price, of course that isn't what the car is worth now! We'll have a total of the money spent soon.
My "totaled" M3 that had a slight ding in the rear quarter panel sold for $4300 at auction. Around $3000-5000 is how much these sell for at auctions.
Rod Bearings = full engine rebuild for most people. Do the math, it's 4K + the cost of repairs. Also a vert in Eastern Canada isn't worth that much since you only want to use it half the year.
@@DeathOrGloryRacingBCRod Bearings are a $600 job for the good bearings and ARP bolts. This engine doesn't often need rebuilt so it's not $4000 for bearings.
Please just use Castrol or Liqui Moly 10w-60. I don't know 1 person who uses redline engine oil in their m3! also it takes blue coolant. You'll only need 1 bottle to mix with water so buy BMW brand coolant for $10-$20 US.
No burping technique. Over the next week just open the coolant cap after driving it.
I beg to differ. Bimmerworld uses Red Line in all of their builds and race cars.
www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/
Rebuilding a whole BMW is "a common problem" lol
This car shoyld be around 15-13k US now
Yay 1st to view
Is Moose losing weight???
I know who call if I need something "Pulled"...
IDK if you guys know about these sites, but www.realoem.com and www.newtis.info are 2 of the best sites for working on BMW's. I had never done anything more than an intake gasket, and through the use of these 2 sites I've managed to complete a full teardown and rebuild of my S54. If you guys have any questions or issues with coding on this car, I'd be glad to help!
ZDDP = Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate. Most common anti-wear chemistry used in motor oils. Tends to poison Catalysts if too much used. You are welcome :-)
any idea how much crankcase breathers help with catalyst failure in high zddp oils?
David Gray I don’t have any experience directly but OEMs have been hammering away at Industry for low phos oils as it impacts emission warrantys which are expensive for them. 0.08% wt phos seems to make most OEMs happy and that is with vehicles with closed crankcase ventilation. I would imagine open helps directionally but phos can end up in tailpipe emissions by being the oil passing the rings etc. This would be a great conversation with some of the specialist oil marketers who have oils for race applications etc. They must have looked into this.
Dude... did you say "chirp" as in Nextel chirping? My god i miss my Nextel chirping
"Bmw resto" who spends so much on a drift car lol
heman thecuntdestroyer it’s not that expensive?
@@christiancern4275 its a cheap restoration but still expensive for a drift car
Maybe you jingst yourself PT 16:25 :D
Leave it to the bimmer boys to complain about having to drop the exhaust to get access to a part 🤣
Who gave this a thumbs down? Haters everywhere!
Cutie P
Should have just gotten a one piece driveshaft.