REAR Brake Replacement 2007-2015 Audi Q7
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- How to replace rear brakes rotors and pads on a 2007-2015 Audi Q7. Quick simple tutorial video, with A-Z instructions on this brake fixing process. Save money and DIY.
If you live in an area where cars tend to rust make sure to put a thin layer of anti-seize between wheel / rotor, and other parts where metal seize can occur.
Parts and Products:
Brake Pads: amzn.to/3nw1pjl
Brake Pad Sensors: amzn.to/3A2FPYK
Rotors: amzn.to/3KfDLla
Triple Square M16 Socket: amzn.to/3qwb3Vf
Torx Bit Socket Set - T50: amzn.to/3nxG4pN
Thread Locker: amzn.to/3mKOFUk
Electrical Cleaner: amzn.to/3jiMgzU
Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/3qsiJYt
Disk Brake Grease: amzn.to/34Ooqrf
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Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:31 Prepping Car
1:38 Dismantle Brakes
6:49 Put Rotor on
11:30 Assemble Brakes
10:30 Close
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Info:
CZcams Channel: / chrisncars
Website: chrisncars.com/
Mail: Mail@ChrisNCars.com
Video: • How to Pull Dent With ...
This is one of many restoration videos I have made. More can be found here:
• WorkiN on Cars
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Music:
Yung Logos | Nilly Willy
• Video
#ChrisNCars #Brakes #DIY
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Chris N’ Cars, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Chris N’ Cars assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Chris N’ Cars recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Chris N’ Cars, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Chris N’ Cars. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Super! Best one I've seen and I have to do my Q7 soon.
Hey! Thanks for the comment and glad it helped
@@ChrisNCars1st question: Did you have to go into the system or Audi software to change the caliper pads or rotor ? Or did you just simply jack up vehicle remove wheel and use the required tools to remove the bolts etc for the service to be completed and put it all back together done ? What tools did you use T27 Allen 6mm T50 for example...?
Spent 250 bucks for parts. Did it within one and a half hours in my buddy's air-conditioned garage. Had a couple of beers after that. Thank you, Chris! 🤙The dealer wants 1300 dollars for the job.
See! You get it. I am not a certified mechanic, just a dude filming his car maintenance lol. If you try you can save so much money.
Great video, big help. Audi wanted £1300 for this job 🤣 ..got a full set of Brembo discs and pads for £300 now i just need to fit them 😎
A completely thorough explanation of the AUdi Q7 rear brake pads, rotors, bolts and spring. I especially appreciate the way you address cleaning all parts before reinstallation. I have a 2007 Q7, and I was told my back pads were about 1000 miles before the sensor light would come on. That is exactly what happened. No explanation of whether the rotors should be changed, You provided excellent indicators to look for: squeek, vibration, uneven wear on the pads. I have none of those. I will be using your information to assure the pads are changed and sensors properly cared for, and only change the rotors if indicated.
Glad the video helped and thanks for the nice thorough comment.
You’re the man! Doing mine pretty soon. Thank you good sir.
Thank you for this! Huge help for me doing my brakes and rotors. You’re a saint!
Great instruction. Thank you for sharing!
This is a very good video. Props to you man.
For everybody that wants to know, the little screw is actually triple square 5.
And that hole is for the parking brake adjustment. You see the adjustment wheel on the right hand side of the parking brake shoes.
BTW. Those brake shoes look like they need to be replaced.
This video is useful but fails to identify the difficult aspects of changing your brakes. I just finished changing the front and rear brakes on my 2015 Q7 for the second time in 7 years. I won't make a video but would like to share a few lessons that I learned. The hardest part is removing the retaining pins and I have learned that if you apply generous amounts of penetrating lubricate like WD40 or PB Blaster and let in soak for about 24 hours it will increase your chances of loosening the retaining pins, because they ARE seized. Also, I sanded the pins and applied an anti-seize lubricant to them before I reinserted them. I thought I had a bright idea to change the retaining pins with new ones but after doing some research I discovered that you are supposed to change them anyway. So, I bought some new retaining pins and will be putting anti-seize lubricant on them and replacing the old pins as soon as they arrive.
The pin is so easy to remove. You simply use a punch or a screwdriver and hammer. Worst case scenario use a torche or heat gun and comes out in one easy hit
Great visiting with you, all the best! Ann
I just did a brake overhaul with rotors and pads, on my 2009 VW Touareg R50 (5 liter V10 Twin Turbo Diesel) which is basically the same car. I was looking for a video after the fact - to see if anyone else had as much trouble as I had removing the rear calipers. The bolts basically felt welded in place. Luckily I have a ramp lift in my garage / hangar so that I can work from underneath...
The Brembo brakes are the same with 368mm rotors / 6-piston calipers in front and 358mm rotors / 4-piston calipers in the rear. The front was easy and the rear was close to giving-up level of difficulty. The main reason being that it's VERY difficult to find enough space for using a good breaker bar to get enough torque to remove the upper caliper bolts. After hours of swearing, buying a new, stronger and smaller pneumatic torque gun and using a heating gun liberally, I finally got the bolts loose...
The only difference I can see between my car and yours is that the Brembo calipers on the Touareg doesn't have any retention pins. You can't change the pads from above but have to remove the calipers and insert the pads from below. That's okay since the rotors should be changed every other set of pads and the pistons should be inspected for corrosion issues anyway. I had 5 out of 6 pistons stuck due to corrosion on my front right caliper! A complete set of new pistons and seals (20 pcs of each) is ordered from a UK manufacturer).
Thanks for the video! It helped me to decide that I did things the only way possible and didn't miss some 'secret' tricks. 😃
Yeah, German engineering make it seem complicated, ha! But persistence will win 😅
awesome tutoril sir 🎖
Nice work!
I love the “all you have to do” comments from the non rust belt people. VW/Audi rotor bolts are notorious for rusting, seizing and stripping. If anyone does this, you better have a EZ outs. Note: when you put it back in, IF you put it back in, use some Anti-Seize. It wail make it much easier the next time.
You got that right add an extra 45 minutes to each wheel for dealing with rusted bolts holding rotor to the hub and hub rusted to the rotor. Better have your blowtorch, your ease outs, your drift pins, your ball peen hammers and nuts off spray.
The bolt that you transferred and weren’t sure what is for, is for pulling a badly stuck on rotor from the hub. You pull it out and screw in the bolt of the same thread pitch to crack the rotor free. It’s a puller thread that is protected by a plug. That is why you pay 300$ for a set of Audi rotors.
Chances are it will take you one day to loosen the pad retaining pins from each caliber. (That's one day per wheel.) And you will need about two cans of CRC Freeze-off and PB Blaster. (I'm on my third day and third wheel right now!)
The triple squares are a pain in the rear to remove I had them in my Jetta Sportwagen TDI.
So you didn't need to wind the handbrake ratchet back through the stud holes to get the discs off ? I've got 2008 Q7 and need to do mine
I didn’t have to do that.
Chris did you use after market parts for your car ?
Yessir
@@ChrisNCars no issues or noise sound ? I want to buy this car but so scared bcz of the parts prices. Do you mind if share what brand do you recommend for general parts pks ? And thank you 😊
@@mohammedal-ahmadi8045 I was scared for the same reasons. Honestly only put 14k miles on it and the car is at 72k now, so I can’t say reliability past that. No major problems so far. The dealership try’s to sell you crazy expensive service options. Repairs require a couple more steps in removing plastics and such. Parts are a little more, like 10-25%, but I buy it all on Rockauto and Amazon for the most part. You can’t beat the ride of German made car, but if you are looking for a car that just needs oil and forget, go for a Honda or Toyota. Still, its all just a car working on general maintenance like this is pretty much all the same.
@@ChrisNCars thank you so much for the clarification Chris. Really appreciate it 🙏 🙌 😌
Those M16 triple square bolts do not come out that easily. Broke a socket trying to get them out
Aww man! Mine were super tight but what you see on the video was the real deal. Sorry you can’t get it.
@@ChrisNCars Had the M16 triple square with a 3/8" drive. It broke the craftsman 1/2 to 3/8 drive adaptor trying to break it loose. Found the M16 in 1/2" drive and eventually got it to break loose. Difficult to get the rust breaker lube into the right spot to help get it to move.
@@jasonl6380 happy to hear you got it! I left it out in this video but if you live in a rusty place don’t forget some anti-seize! Sure you already know.
I had the same issue with my Touareg R50. I needed to use literal amounts of heat from an electric heat gun, a meter long breaker bar with full force and working from underneath. I wouldn't be able to do this if I hadn't a ramp-lift in my garage and was able to work from underneath the car! Heat, breaker bar and small, strong pneumatic impact wrench was all needed to successfully do my rotors and pads in the rear.
Forgot to bleed or we don’t need to bleed them on this vehicle lol😮
Don’t need to bleed unless you crack the line 👍