I really like a purcell as i find it the easiest of the personal tethers to extend while weighted. This makes it easier and safer to weight and test my systems when cleaning/rappelling which is nice. I also like that its a fair bit cheaoer 😊
We also use them as ascenders for our large rescue team. Single strand end prusiked to rope, double end sinched around foot, and a short prusik above it attached to umbilical point for progress capture. Cheap, safe, light, and multipurpose way to climb.
I'm on an MRT, we use them as one of the attachment points for a rescuer in a raising/lowering system, it was hard to argue for the Grillion when you're up against a couple of metres of cord. One thing we do differently is attach the person to the end with the four strands with a krab so at full extension the prussic is still with the person instead of potentially just out of reach (that's because it's perma tied and not everyone has the same wing span), the end with the two strands is into a delta maillion. I've used one as a lanyard at an anchor but haven't for a while, but handy to have in the armoury if needed.
It's beauty is that it is a piece of hardware that is multi-purpose. It can be used for both rock rescue and crevasse rescue. Regarding it's strength, 7mm cord will increase that breaking strength by a significant amount; definitely gets you over 10kN. I keep it permanently on my harness and although it can be bulky to stow away while climbing, I simply tie it with a "loose" figure eight with a few extra twists so that it stows in one bundle close at hand. I find that for me, this seams to keep it out of my way and prevents it from getting snagged on things which happened when I wrapped it around my waste. One last use is that I tie an overhand knot about 12in from my belay loop and use it to extend my rappel. One last modification I use is I drop one loop of the prussik knot to make it easier to loosen; so I end up with 3 one side and 2 on the other.
I've been using the variation on the bottom of the vid at 5:48 for years as a PAS and i love it. Super adjustable, lightweight and cheap! I did a triple fishermans and a 4 wrap prussic because i use stiff 5mm maxim tech cord. Still grabs really well.
A wise friend taught me to tie an alpine butterfly right after the prusik for for a closer attachment and it works well for canyoning this way as a rappel extension/PAS at the same time, it works highlining, climbing, and it’s knowledge/insurance. I’m one of the Purcell lovers
I have personally been back and forth on this for ages, thinking about getting a PAS of some sort, weighing cost against versatility for the various options, (i think the camp swing is the other one), and then putting it all off again and continuing to clove my climbing rope as the zero cost option. Last weekend I was browsing my local shop and pretty much on impulse bought 5m of 7mm and 1m of 6mm accessory cord. My plan was to use the 1m as a third hand prussik, maybe for threads, it's 8.8kN so strong enough. You guessed it, the 5m I wanted to experiment with a Purcell system. I closed the loop with a double fisherman's but then kept that as the back of the prussik so that it doesn't interfere at all, in this setup you can use the open loop to prussik the climbing rope for use as a foot loop, or clip the other end high for progress capture or use for rescue or escaping the belay in an emergency. To ensure the adjustment would always stay in reach, I then tied a big loose alpine butterfly, loops about 8 inches, thinking I can then larks foot the double loop, as the stronger option, to my harness and use the single loop to extend my belay device or as a short loop to clip in. It can all be easily untied and used as a cordelette or to sling around a big boulder if required. Ok it's 14kN less the knot, so I would never use it alone, but I normally carry one 180cm nylon sling which isn't always big enough... Maybe a little off topic, but I then thought about maybe trying a single strand adjustable loop which would go from arms reach to half that, and a second loop that goes from that half distance to half again, so a long and a short adjustable connection on each end, probably with the alpine butterfly in there middle to adjust the overall length and act as a tie in point and also maybe an extension for a belay plate. Just reading that back, I wonder if it makes sense, might need to edit later, but I'll post as is for now.
So. I’ve actually got one of these on my harness. It’s not a primary lanyard for clipping off, but basically all tied and a backups piece of extra cord. It’s long enough to use as a foot loop for ascending if I’ve got no webbing in conjunction with a atc. I’ve not used it a whole lot, but it’s there, tied and an option if I need the cord. I can easily untie and get to a simple loop if I need it. Or if I need to clip off and adjust or change my primary lanyard it’s there and ready to go. Versatile and lightweight, it’s a great way to store a loop of cordage on an extra carabiner it’s hitched to.
Love the Purcell Prusik on a loop! I've been using them for 10 years as my primary system. I use 2 of them as my PAS for sport climbing and 1 or 2 when multi-pitch climbing. It's so nice to be able to easily get into the most comfortable position at an anchor. Great video, thanks!
Purcell Prusik is a really great thing to know how to make, because you'll invariably be bringing a new outdoor climber or even a forgetful climbing veteran that needs a PAS at *some* point in your life
To get it closer loop it onto your harness first, keeping the double fisherman's close to the larks foot. Tie an overhand in the end to keep your centre point and undo it. From there do the prusik loops. I did one of these for a mate last year for a vF trip, worked a treat. As a note, I saw the other day the petzl doesn't have a rating on one of the Facebook groups...
@@JBMountainSkills oh OK might have been a different one but I'm pretty sure it was a petzl one, if I can find the post I'll link it here. Either way the petzl is going to be way better but the Purcell prusik is a good alternative. Thanks for the video. 👍
I think it's a nice tool in the toolbox, but it's definitely not something I'd use normally. The main cons for me are the limited range of adjustment, and how messy it all is. Regarding shock absorbtion, the petzl adjusts slip as well, I don't quite remember at what force, it was somewhere between 4 and 6kN, at least for the Progress Adjust, the industrial version. That, paired with the dynamic rope, would make it better than the purcell for (limited) shock absorbtion. That being said, as you already stated, don't fall onto any lanyard. Personally, Petzl Adjusts rule, I have one single connect adjust, one connect adjust vario, two custom dual adjusts, and the progress adjust for work. I will be giving the Edelrid Switch Adjust a chance, although I've played with it and didn't like it that much. (Releasing under load works very well, at the cost of not being able to give slack when unweighted)
While you mentioned a simpler alternative - a sling - you haven't talked a word about the most simple one - tying a clove hitch on the rope you're already tied in to. Requires no gear apart from a screwgate which you carry a bunch of anyway. The only downside is that you can't use it for rappelling but you should probably extend your rappels so from that point you can use the extension sling. I just don't see the point in using a specific device or dedicated cord setup for something I can solve without a hassle anyway. For the Purcell prusik - you can leave the cord in the wall if you have to bail, so at least it can have more than one purpose.
Used this for a bit, until i realised i'm just trying to look cool using an obscure and not very practical knot :D Don't regret buying a proper, streamlined replacement
Occasionally I use a PAS (single pitch sport) but typically I just use a clove hitch with the rope that I'm tied into. I mostly climb MP trad routes. What are your thoughts on using a clove with your rope vs dedicated PAS? Great video. Andy
Glad you liked the video, another lanyard focused one coming Sunday that might be of interest! On MP trad routes, I'm almost certainly going to just clove hitch in with the rope. I just like having one less thing on my harness plus it's just a quick and efficient method. The exception may be if climbing in a three and swapping leads.
Purcell prussiks are great for multi pitching. They work well as a rapel lanyard and replace the munter mule for rock rescue. There is no product that works as well or is as versatile.
I haven't seen a video, but the single end of the Purcell prusik is used as a prusik on the main rope, the extendible end is attached to the anchor, and then the tension on the belay device, for example, can be released onto the Purcell to switch the main rope at the anchor from a belay device to a lowering device. Then after a device is switched from belaying to lowering, the Purcell can be extended, similar to how a munter mule is extended to reweight the main rope to the lowering device. I only bring a Purcell Prusik with me multi-pitching and use it for both rapelling and rescue. Luckily, I've never needed it for rescue. Otherwise, there are lots of alternatives for single-pitching.
You actually can get this really tight, just like the petzl adjust. To do this: 1. Extend it to a long length, so the loop is small 2. Grab a carabiner (non-locking is OK), clip it to the loop 3. Clip the carabiner to your harness. This lets you get a bigger range out of the purcell
Thoughts on a the snap bowline (ie banshee) with a double length as a PAS? I've been using that recently and rather like it. Similarly it looks like you could loop in the purcell with a snap bowline and get even better results?
Oh, you’re not talking about the tether method Alpine Savvy did an article about, are you? I’d never seen it documented anywhere else before, but it seems like one of the more flexible methods out there if you really want to use a sling as a tether, and it doesn’t leave a horribly cinched overhand knot to untie once it has been loaded either.
@@aaronm9353 exactly . . . but I'm not sure about the Alpine Savvy article? Had a guide demonstrate it and once I got the snap bowline down it's been my go-to. But breaking the knot after hanging all day is no issue, and you can adjust the primary length with a clove. . . without unclipping the loop of course ;)
Great video again. I was wondering if you could do a vid on the following. Recently went a climbed dream of white horses in a three. The first (second) belay being a hanging belay I found tricky to construct because as we were climbing in a three I felt we needed a sling made master point yet trying to tie this with only one hand whilst holding on with the other was tricky. What advise do you have about this? Thanks
The simplest thing would probably be to place a piece of gear then get your belayer to take you tight (or clove hitch into the first piece) so you can use both hands to build the rest of the stance. If you are dead set on building one handed you could try a sliding x or using a pre-tied quod.
I really like a purcell as i find it the easiest of the personal tethers to extend while weighted. This makes it easier and safer to weight and test my systems when cleaning/rappelling which is nice. I also like that its a fair bit cheaoer 😊
We also use them as ascenders for our large rescue team. Single strand end prusiked to rope, double end sinched around foot, and a short prusik above it attached to umbilical point for progress capture. Cheap, safe, light, and multipurpose way to climb.
I'm on an MRT, we use them as one of the attachment points for a rescuer in a raising/lowering system, it was hard to argue for the Grillion when you're up against a couple of metres of cord. One thing we do differently is attach the person to the end with the four strands with a krab so at full extension the prussic is still with the person instead of potentially just out of reach (that's because it's perma tied and not everyone has the same wing span), the end with the two strands is into a delta maillion.
I've used one as a lanyard at an anchor but haven't for a while, but handy to have in the armoury if needed.
It's beauty is that it is a piece of hardware that is multi-purpose. It can be used for both rock rescue and crevasse rescue. Regarding it's strength, 7mm cord will increase that breaking strength by a significant amount; definitely gets you over 10kN. I keep it permanently on my harness and although it can be bulky to stow away while climbing, I simply tie it with a "loose" figure eight with a few extra twists so that it stows in one bundle close at hand. I find that for me, this seams to keep it out of my way and prevents it from getting snagged on things which happened when I wrapped it around my waste. One last use is that I tie an overhand knot about 12in from my belay loop and use it to extend my rappel. One last modification I use is I drop one loop of the prussik knot to make it easier to loosen; so I end up with 3 one side and 2 on the other.
Thanks for sharing 👊
I've been using the variation on the bottom of the vid at 5:48 for years as a PAS and i love it. Super adjustable, lightweight and cheap! I did a triple fishermans and a 4 wrap prussic because i use stiff 5mm maxim tech cord. Still grabs really well.
A wise friend taught me to tie an alpine butterfly right after the prusik for for a closer attachment and it works well for canyoning this way as a rappel extension/PAS at the same time, it works highlining, climbing, and it’s knowledge/insurance. I’m one of the Purcell lovers
I have personally been back and forth on this for ages, thinking about getting a PAS of some sort, weighing cost against versatility for the various options, (i think the camp swing is the other one), and then putting it all off again and continuing to clove my climbing rope as the zero cost option. Last weekend I was browsing my local shop and pretty much on impulse bought 5m of 7mm and 1m of 6mm accessory cord. My plan was to use the 1m as a third hand prussik, maybe for threads, it's 8.8kN so strong enough.
You guessed it, the 5m I wanted to experiment with a Purcell system.
I closed the loop with a double fisherman's but then kept that as the back of the prussik so that it doesn't interfere at all, in this setup you can use the open loop to prussik the climbing rope for use as a foot loop, or clip the other end high for progress capture or use for rescue or escaping the belay in an emergency.
To ensure the adjustment would always stay in reach, I then tied a big loose alpine butterfly, loops about 8 inches, thinking I can then larks foot the double loop, as the stronger option, to my harness and use the single loop to extend my belay device or as a short loop to clip in.
It can all be easily untied and used as a cordelette or to sling around a big boulder if required. Ok it's 14kN less the knot, so I would never use it alone, but I normally carry one 180cm nylon sling which isn't always big enough...
Maybe a little off topic, but I then thought about maybe trying a single strand adjustable loop which would go from arms reach to half that, and a second loop that goes from that half distance to half again, so a long and a short adjustable connection on each end, probably with the alpine butterfly in there middle to adjust the overall length and act as a tie in point and also maybe an extension for a belay plate.
Just reading that back, I wonder if it makes sense, might need to edit later, but I'll post as is for now.
So.
I’ve actually got one of these on my harness. It’s not a primary lanyard for clipping off, but basically all tied and a backups piece of extra cord.
It’s long enough to use as a foot loop for ascending if I’ve got no webbing in conjunction with a atc.
I’ve not used it a whole lot, but it’s there, tied and an option if I need the cord. I can easily untie and get to a simple loop if I need it. Or if I need to clip off and adjust or change my primary lanyard it’s there and ready to go.
Versatile and lightweight, it’s a great way to store a loop of cordage on an extra carabiner it’s hitched to.
Love the Purcell Prusik on a loop! I've been using them for 10 years as my primary system. I use 2 of them as my PAS for sport climbing and 1 or 2 when multi-pitch climbing. It's so nice to be able to easily get into the most comfortable position at an anchor. Great video, thanks!
Out of interest have you tried a Petzl Connect or similar?
@@JBMountainSkillsThat’s odd. I just posted a reply to your comment here and it’s vanished.
I have not tried the Petzl Connect or similar. I have been eyeing the Rock Empire PIP lanyard though since seeing it in your other videos.
Purcell Prusik is a really great thing to know how to make, because you'll invariably be bringing a new outdoor climber or even a forgetful climbing veteran that needs a PAS at *some* point in your life
Bump. I only recently replaced my purcell with a connect adjust; the purcell is now on the backup/loaner rack.
what's a PAS?
Personal anchor system. A way to connect yourself to an anchor point while climbing.
To get it closer loop it onto your harness first, keeping the double fisherman's close to the larks foot. Tie an overhand in the end to keep your centre point and undo it. From there do the prusik loops. I did one of these for a mate last year for a vF trip, worked a treat. As a note, I saw the other day the petzl doesn't have a rating on one of the Facebook groups...
The Connect does, that was a different lanyard.
@@JBMountainSkills oh OK might have been a different one but I'm pretty sure it was a petzl one, if I can find the post I'll link it here. Either way the petzl is going to be way better but the Purcell prusik is a good alternative. Thanks for the video. 👍
@@mattbaker1683I assume you mean load rating, right? It has an MBS of 15kN in all directions.
@@aaronm9353 not sure, take a look at the link I just posted.
It was the Petzl Evolve Adjust, that's not rated to be used as a lanyard by CE standards, where as the Connect is.
I also migrated to the connect adjust but I keep a pair of Purcells in my gear bag to this day.
Interesting videos, thanks.
I think it's a nice tool in the toolbox, but it's definitely not something I'd use normally.
The main cons for me are the limited range of adjustment, and how messy it all is.
Regarding shock absorbtion, the petzl adjusts slip as well, I don't quite remember at what force, it was somewhere between 4 and 6kN, at least for the Progress Adjust, the industrial version. That, paired with the dynamic rope, would make it better than the purcell for (limited) shock absorbtion. That being said, as you already stated, don't fall onto any lanyard.
Personally, Petzl Adjusts rule, I have one single connect adjust, one connect adjust vario, two custom dual adjusts, and the progress adjust for work. I will be giving the Edelrid Switch Adjust a chance, although I've played with it and didn't like it that much. (Releasing under load works very well, at the cost of not being able to give slack when unweighted)
While you mentioned a simpler alternative - a sling - you haven't talked a word about the most simple one - tying a clove hitch on the rope you're already tied in to. Requires no gear apart from a screwgate which you carry a bunch of anyway. The only downside is that you can't use it for rappelling but you should probably extend your rappels so from that point you can use the extension sling. I just don't see the point in using a specific device or dedicated cord setup for something I can solve without a hassle anyway.
For the Purcell prusik - you can leave the cord in the wall if you have to bail, so at least it can have more than one purpose.
Used this for a bit, until i realised i'm just trying to look cool using an obscure and not very practical knot :D Don't regret buying a proper, streamlined replacement
Occasionally I use a PAS (single pitch sport) but typically I just use a clove hitch with the rope that I'm tied into. I mostly climb MP trad routes.
What are your thoughts on using a clove with your rope vs dedicated PAS?
Great video.
Andy
Glad you liked the video, another lanyard focused one coming Sunday that might be of interest!
On MP trad routes, I'm almost certainly going to just clove hitch in with the rope. I just like having one less thing on my harness plus it's just a quick and efficient method. The exception may be if climbing in a three and swapping leads.
Purcell prussiks are great for multi pitching. They work well as a rapel lanyard and replace the munter mule for rock rescue. There is no product that works as well or is as versatile.
Do you know of any videos demonstrating using this in place of a munter mule as you say?
I haven't seen a video, but the single end of the Purcell prusik is used as a prusik on the main rope, the extendible end is attached to the anchor, and then the tension on the belay device, for example, can be released onto the Purcell to switch the main rope at the anchor from a belay device to a lowering device. Then after a device is switched from belaying to lowering, the Purcell can be extended, similar to how a munter mule is extended to reweight the main rope to the lowering device. I only bring a Purcell Prusik with me multi-pitching and use it for both rapelling and rescue. Luckily, I've never needed it for rescue. Otherwise, there are lots of alternatives for single-pitching.
You actually can get this really tight, just like the petzl adjust. To do this:
1. Extend it to a long length, so the loop is small
2. Grab a carabiner (non-locking is OK), clip it to the loop
3. Clip the carabiner to your harness.
This lets you get a bigger range out of the purcell
Thoughts on a the snap bowline (ie banshee) with a double length as a PAS? I've been using that recently and rather like it. Similarly it looks like you could loop in the purcell with a snap bowline and get even better results?
Oh, you’re not talking about the tether method Alpine Savvy did an article about, are you? I’d never seen it documented anywhere else before, but it seems like one of the more flexible methods out there if you really want to use a sling as a tether, and it doesn’t leave a horribly cinched overhand knot to untie once it has been loaded either.
@@aaronm9353 exactly . . . but I'm not sure about the Alpine Savvy article? Had a guide demonstrate it and once I got the snap bowline down it's been my go-to. But breaking the knot after hanging all day is no issue, and you can adjust the primary length with a clove. . . without unclipping the loop of course ;)
Great video again. I was wondering if you could do a vid on the following. Recently went a climbed dream of white horses in a three. The first (second) belay being a hanging belay I found tricky to construct because as we were climbing in a three I felt we needed a sling made master point yet trying to tie this with only one hand whilst holding on with the other was tricky. What advise do you have about this? Thanks
The simplest thing would probably be to place a piece of gear then get your belayer to take you tight (or clove hitch into the first piece) so you can use both hands to build the rest of the stance.
If you are dead set on building one handed you could try a sliding x or using a pre-tied quod.
For me personally, I’ll just never use this when I can just use a clove hitch or sling. Way too bulky and an extra single purpose item.