I use the cheapo cord method. It taught me how to tie a double fisherman’s which is a bonus. Brand new cord is a bit crap but after while they get a bit fuzzier and grab nicely.
There is a lot to consider here. First, do you need a prusik to handle ~10 kN? If not, then a rated prusik may not be that important. In a pinch, one could use a boot lace and feel just as secure with an extended abseil or improvised jumar because neither case normally requires strength against shock loading. One of the advantages of a sewn prusik or third hand is that they are more compact on the harness; a real concern. They are also easier to manage when in use because the knot can be rather intrusive as you are tying the prusik knot. Finally, the sewn versions look cleaner, which inspires confidence, especially for guides; the value of appearance cannot be denied. For me, I am a bit of a DIY nut, so a tied 6mm prusik is what I have on my rack. These are great videos! Thank you for putting them together.
An advantage of an aramid prusik cord is that it has a much higher melting point (over 500C). Nylon cord will melt quickly (melting point 220C) if your prusik cord slips down the rope when weighted.
In the states the Hollow Block is ubiquitous. Always used to use cord tied with double fisherman's. Then I switched to Hollow Block, not sure why but I like it. I think it has a supple feel that can't be beat. Maybe that's it.
the main thing i like about the about the hollowblock is that it works well if i'm abseiling a dedicated RAD line or something super skinny. They're also much more heat resistant if you're doing a lot of abseils in a day. I wish the simmonds option was more available in the states, TBH, because having extra anchor options seems better.
I think the best of both would be to buy aramid cord by the meter (apart from Edelrid, there are a bunch of companies who sell 5.5-6mm technical cord, like Beal, Edelweiss, etc.), and use that to tie your own. You get 15-ish kN for little money (I'm not sure excactly how much weaker aramid gets by tieing a knot in it, NBS is ~18-20kN, so I'd hope it does 15 after the knot).
I’ve been using Beal jammies, but have found they get core shot really quickly from being racked on a carabiner. I’ve heard that can be avoided by cutting back the plastic around the sewn section, but if I’m going to start modifying a rated piece of kit to get more use out of it, it does beg the question ‘what’s the point in having a rated piece of kit in the first place.’ Going to just go back to standard prussiks.
@@JBMountainSkills Hi. I'e just bought one. Could you explain in detail why and how did you trim th plastic (just a piece or the whole thing)? After only one use I can see it changed around the edgers (separted from the loop). Oh, and I do understand that I and only I am responsible for any modifications I make to my own equipment.Thank you.
@@lukaszbeck4138 the plastic seems to dig in to the cord causing that damage where the cord bends when storing it. I just trimmed the plastic slightly, max 1cm, seems to solve the issue.
I have the Beal Jammy but stopped using it while doing a rock rescue course since it was way less scure than 5 mm cord in autoblock when prusic climbing due to the stiffness. Since I´m a nerd I still want to try the hollow block, but I feel that acessory cord is fine.
@@JBMountainSkills I never gave it enough time to soften up. 5 mm cord is way lighter, works right away. The Beal Jammy is not my prefered 60 cm runner if that is the use,. I however really like the Edelrid aramid 120 slings.
I've got the one from Simond. 3 wraps of autoblock on two strands of 10mm rope, feel a bit too loose (but still grabs) and 4 wraps are a bit too grabby. Will see what's better in real life applications
One bit of fine tuning that sometimes helps: instead of clipping the two ends together on an auto block, cross the ends over before clipping them together. Sometimes helps.
I got absolutely slated on Facebook when I expressed an interest in having rated prusics, I hope you fair better 😕 Currently using the beal Jammy and frustrated by the plastic tube over the stitching.
I carefully cut my jammy plastic back at each end to help prevent the pressure at the end when packed away. I think it may even have been Jez who suggested it but not 100%!
I've got a Jammy as well and have the same frustrations with the heat-shrink tubing. Not only is it arguably longer than it needs to be, but since it's so stiff it invites a nasty bend radius at the ends which according to at least one internet stranger has lead to a premature core shot. The Mammut magic sling seems perfect on paper to use as a seam-free prusik loop, but I've not heard of anyone using it for that purpose. Is it a handling thing, or is the sheath not suitable?
anyone got any experience with the short Beal jammy? bought the shortest one. currently wrapping it UP the rope its either too grabby or not grabby enough with one wrap difference. Haven't played around with it loads just tried to use it a few times and got frustrated.
I use the cheapo cord method. It taught me how to tie a double fisherman’s which is a bonus. Brand new cord is a bit crap but after while they get a bit fuzzier and grab nicely.
One of those bits of kit that gets better as it gets a bit older!
There is a lot to consider here. First, do you need a prusik to handle ~10 kN? If not, then a rated prusik may not be that important. In a pinch, one could use a boot lace and feel just as secure with an extended abseil or improvised jumar because neither case normally requires strength against shock loading. One of the advantages of a sewn prusik or third hand is that they are more compact on the harness; a real concern. They are also easier to manage when in use because the knot can be rather intrusive as you are tying the prusik knot. Finally, the sewn versions look cleaner, which inspires confidence, especially for guides; the value of appearance cannot be denied.
For me, I am a bit of a DIY nut, so a tied 6mm prusik is what I have on my rack.
These are great videos! Thank you for putting them together.
An advantage of an aramid prusik cord is that it has a much higher melting point (over 500C). Nylon cord will melt quickly (melting point 220C) if your prusik cord slips down the rope when weighted.
Another unbiased review. Excellent. Well done JB👍
Cheers 👊
In the states the Hollow Block is ubiquitous. Always used to use cord tied with double fisherman's. Then I switched to Hollow Block, not sure why but I like it. I think it has a supple feel that can't be beat. Maybe that's it.
They are nice to use that’s for sure!
the main thing i like about the about the hollowblock is that it works well if i'm abseiling a dedicated RAD line or something super skinny. They're also much more heat resistant if you're doing a lot of abseils in a day. I wish the simmonds option was more available in the states, TBH, because having extra anchor options seems better.
I think the best of both would be to buy aramid cord by the meter (apart from Edelrid, there are a bunch of companies who sell 5.5-6mm technical cord, like Beal, Edelweiss, etc.), and use that to tie your own. You get 15-ish kN for little money (I'm not sure excactly how much weaker aramid gets by tieing a knot in it, NBS is ~18-20kN, so I'd hope it does 15 after the knot).
I’ve been using Beal jammies, but have found they get core shot really quickly from being racked on a carabiner. I’ve heard that can be avoided by cutting back the plastic around the sewn section, but if I’m going to start modifying a rated piece of kit to get more use out of it, it does beg the question ‘what’s the point in having a rated piece of kit in the first place.’ Going to just go back to standard prussiks.
Yeah I carefully trimmed back the plastic on my Simond ones. They will last a lot longer that way.
@@JBMountainSkills Hi. I'e just bought one. Could you explain in detail why and how did you trim th plastic (just a piece or the whole thing)? After only one use I can see it changed around the edgers (separted from the loop). Oh, and I do understand that I and only I am responsible for any modifications I make to my own equipment.Thank you.
@@lukaszbeck4138 the plastic seems to dig in to the cord causing that damage where the cord bends when storing it.
I just trimmed the plastic slightly, max 1cm, seems to solve the issue.
I have the Beal Jammy but stopped using it while doing a rock rescue course since it was way less scure than 5 mm cord in autoblock when prusic climbing due to the stiffness. Since I´m a nerd I still want to try the hollow block, but I feel that acessory cord is fine.
The Jammy ones do soften up after a while but you're right, not so grippy from new.
@@JBMountainSkills I never gave it enough time to soften up. 5 mm cord is way lighter, works right away. The Beal Jammy is not my prefered 60 cm runner if that is the use,. I however really like the Edelrid aramid 120 slings.
Edelrid aramid sling works as prusik.
Yep. Someone told me they'd be discontinued? Seems a shame if thats true.
@JBMountainSkills I hear it's only temporarily, due to Aramid supply issues.
Edelrid Powerloc 6mm a £1 a metre at Cotswold Outdoors 👍
I've got the one from Simond. 3 wraps of autoblock on two strands of 10mm rope, feel a bit too loose (but still grabs) and 4 wraps are a bit too grabby. Will see what's better in real life applications
One bit of fine tuning that sometimes helps: instead of clipping the two ends together on an auto block, cross the ends over before clipping them together. Sometimes helps.
@@JBMountainSkills Thanks for the tip!
@@lb259you can also half or full twist the end loops before clipping them in 👍 a combination of the above will always work
Hey great video do you have any extra gear ropes cords or anything please let me know if you need your old stuff to get nee life
How do you wrap your prusik onto your screwgate looks tidy?
czcams.com/video/xaIrro8P8AA/video.htmlsi=VJRWItGcNqya1YEc
I got absolutely slated on Facebook when I expressed an interest in having rated prusics, I hope you fair better 😕
Currently using the beal Jammy and frustrated by the plastic tube over the stitching.
All comments are good for the algorithm 😂
I carefully cut my jammy plastic back at each end to help prevent the pressure at the end when packed away. I think it may even have been Jez who suggested it but not 100%!
Might have been me because I have done it, certainly makes them last a lot longer!
I've got a Jammy as well and have the same frustrations with the heat-shrink tubing. Not only is it arguably longer than it needs to be, but since it's so stiff it invites a nasty bend radius at the ends which according to at least one internet stranger has lead to a premature core shot.
The Mammut magic sling seems perfect on paper to use as a seam-free prusik loop, but I've not heard of anyone using it for that purpose. Is it a handling thing, or is the sheath not suitable?
anyone got any experience with the short Beal jammy? bought the shortest one. currently wrapping it UP the rope its either too grabby or not grabby enough with one wrap difference. Haven't played around with it loads just tried to use it a few times and got frustrated.
I ve got the 60cm Jammy, works great for me in a french prussik, either with a 10mm or dual half ropes. Have you tried a different Prussik variant?
Not used the short one (30cm?) I’m afraid.
@@inductivethinking only used 5mm cord otherwise which worked great, just fancied something rated. I'll have to experiment.
Keep it simple standard Prussia
Oh, for the glory days of Prussia (before 1932) eh? en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prussia
😂